Hawk 220 Ultra User manual

Bushton Manufacturing
Maker Of
Hawk Woodworking Tools
FOR MO-DELS 220 226
ULTRA HAWKS
MANUAL #: 703-3729
/
READ THOROUGHLY BEFORE
OPERATING
CODE #: 0895

TABLE OF CONTENTS (RBI HAWK PRECISION SCROLL SAW) _
Setup 2
Maintenance 3
Safety ~ 4
Pattern Transfer Methods 4
Sawing Techniques 5
Practice Exercise 5
First Project How-To 6
Blades, Blades, Blades 6
Fret Sawblades 6
Diamond Blades ...............•................................................................................................................................ 6
Jeweler's Blades 6
Blade Descriptions 7
Blade Changing (220 Ultra & 226 Ultra) 8
Blade Tensioning 9
Advanced Scrolling Techniques 10
Bevel Sawing 10
Stack Cutting 10
Inside Cuts 11
Compound Sawing 12
Troubleshooting 12
Accessories 15
SETTINGUPYOURNEWHAWK---------- _
Your new Hawk has been completely assembled and factory tested before being prepared for shipment. All adjust-
ments have been made except for a few minor adjustments. After a few simple assembly procedures you'll be on
your way to scrolling in no time
The Hawk is shipped in three separate cartons.
Carton #1 contains the saw, manual, and blades.
Carton #2 contains the leg set, assembly hardware, and glides (rubber feet).
Carton #3 contains the Beginner's Choice Kit.
*We often ship additional items in each carton if ordered. Be sure to compare the items received with the packing
list attached to each shipment. There will be one packing list for an entire shipment. If your shipment contains more
than one carton, the packing list will be attached to the largest carton. On the packing list you will notice a customer
number has been assigned to you. Please record this number for future contact with RBI.
While removing all items from their cartons be sure toinspect each one closely for shipping damage. If you feel your
shipment may have been damaged, contact the local office of the transportation carrier. You will find their local
number in the yellow pages under Shipping Carriers.
Tools you'll need to-put your Hawk together:
7/16" wrench or ratchet
9/16" openead wrench
A pair of standard pliers
Step #1
Remove the assembly hardware from the plastic pouch and install the 3/8" hex nuts on the glides (rubber feet).
Screw them all the way down until they are next to the rubber. 2

Step #2
Insert the glides through the hole in the
bottom of each leg. Install another 3/8"
hex nut on the glide to hold it in place.
Tighten the nut down securely. By tighten-
ing down securely, machine vibration will
be considerably reduced (see fig. A-I).
Step #3
After removing everything from the box
close it back up and use it as a bench Fig. A-1 Fig. A-2
when installing the legs on your saw. Save your box in case a warranty situation arises. Turn the saw on its side
and carefully lay it on the box. Install one leg on each.comer of the base, using the 114"whiz nuts. Do not tighten
completely. The carriage bolts should be able to move freely in the slots. Tighten these with a wrench when
making final adjustments. Be sure the top of the leg is inside the base and then arrange bolt head in on the outside
with the whiz nut to the inside of the base (see fig. A-2). .
Step #4
With the legs installed, stand your new Hawk upright and securely tighten the carriage bolts on the legs with a 7/16"
wrench or ratchet. For best operation of your saw be sure to set it on a solid level floor.
Step #5
Model 220 Hawk Ultra, 726 Hawk Ultra: Remove the rubber band from the cam handle on the rear of the upper arm
and flip the earn. This will put tension on the blade. On the left hand side of the front section of the upper arm there
is a small black tension adjustment handle. Push the handle backwards and you should feel tension begin to tighten .
. ,
Step #6
The final adjustment that you will want to make is to direct the dust blower hose. The dust blower hose is connected
to the hold down arm with a hose clamp. Adjust the blower hose directly at the hole in the center of the sawtable.
When adjusting your dust blower, it should keep an area the size of a half dollar directly around the blade clear of
dust. Don't cut the exess tubing until all adjustments are made.
M INTEN NCE ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••
There are a few more things you'll want to do before you begin to saw.
Don't forget these handy tips. Later they should be done about every 20
hours of use.
Tip #1- Using light machine oil (3-in-1 brand oil is good), put a few drops
under the wedge pivot at the rear tension bar. You will also need to put a
drop of oil on each side of the pivot point bearings. (This is where the bolts
that hold the arm on are located, see fig. A-3).
Tip #2 - Use a cake of beeswax or paraffin and rub it on the round under-
side of the earn to keep friction from building up under the earn.
Tip #3 - Although we hand polished each Hawk table at the factory; after
about 20 hours of use you may want to go ahead and apply a coat of wax to
the table for protection. Apply Minwax Clear Wood Wax or Johnson Paste
Wax with light pressure in a circular motion. Polish with a clean dry cloth.
Be sure to remove all wax from the table top or it will coat your wood as you
cut and make finishing difficult.
3
Fig. A-3

LET'S GO OVER A FEW SAFETyTIPS _
Tip #1 --- Due to using a DC brush type motor, your Ultra Hawk saw cannot be plugged into a GFI (Ground Fault,
Interpretor) receptical.
Tip #2 - Never allow anyone without proper training to use your Hawk. Children should always be carefully
supervised while sawing.
Tip #3 - A clean workshop is a safe workshop. Keep your work area clean and uncluttered and especially keep
others clear of running machinery. Be sure to remove all tools and wood scraps before starting the machine.
Tip #4 - Keep your hands away from all moving parts. Never try to make any adjustments to your Hawk while it's
running. The electrical power should be disconnected before making adjustments on the machine.
Tip #5 - Dress for the occasion. Loose clothing and jewelry can be a hazard around working tools. Avoid loose
fitting clothes, long sleeves, gloves, neckties, jewelry, rings, watches, etc. If you have long hair, be sure to pull it
back. Always wear safety goggles, ear protection, and a mask in dusty operations.
Tip #6- To avoid electrical shock, do not operate your Hawk in a wet or damp area. Always keep safety guards in
place. Never leave your saw running unattended.
Tip #7 - Be sure to use good materials for a top notch job. When cutting wood, be sure it has no loose knots or
splintered surfaces.
LET'STRyIT~UT •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••
After we have tested each Hawk, we leave the "test run" blade installed. This blade is a size #7 fret saw blade.
(There are several different sizes and types of blades available but we will talk about them later.) This blade will
work very well for the beginning exercises. The most important thing to remember is to relax. Don't be afraid of the
saw --- it's a very safe tool --- but it must be respected.
For this project you will need:
1-1"x9"x 11 piece of clear soft wood (pine)
Before you begin you will need to get the pattern of the jumping dolphin puzzle located in the RBI Pattern Pak
enclosed with your saw. There are several ways to transfer patterns to your project material. Here are a couple of
our favorites:
1. Carbon Method -- Using a sheet of carbon paper (available at the local stationary shop), place it directly on the
surface you plan to cut. Lay the original pattern or a photocopy directly on top of the carbon paper and carefully
trace the pattern using a sharp pencil or a ball-point pen. Lift the pattern and carbon paper from the surface and
you're ready to cut. Warning: Depending on the material you plan to cut, the carbon from the paper is very
difficult to remove from the surface. Be sure to carefully sand away all carbon or it will tend to bleed when
finishing later.
2. Stick it - This is our favorite. Make a photocopy of the original pattern and put the original away for safe
keeping. Using the photocopy pattern, carefully spray aerosol adhesive directly to the back side of the pattern.
Place the pattern face-side-up on the surface to be cut and rub gently to make sure all edges will be secure while
cutting. Note: When choosing a spray glue, use repositionable glue. The type intended for photographs is
best. After cutting is complete, remove the pattern from the surface and lightly sand to remove glue residue
before finishing. (Some folks tell us that they use the same technique with rubber cement or a craft glue stick
instead of spray adhesive.) 4

For your first project it's better to choose a soft wood to cut. We recommend sugar pine or ponderosa pine if it's
available. Take the pattern of the jumping dolphin puzzle and prepare your project to be cut by attaching the pattern
by the method you think will work best.
Now it's time to adjust the "hold down" foot on your Hawk to fit the thichness of the lumber you will be cutting. The
"hold down" foot is the black nylon (plastic) piece that surrounds the blade on your saw. Using the knob on the right
hand side of the saw located next to the upper arm, loosen the knob and raise the "hold down" foot. Now place the
project you plan to cut on the table and bring the "hold down" foot back down until it gently rests on the surface of
your project. Tighten the knob .
.SAWING TECHNIQUES THE PROFESSIONALS USE _
It is best to always start your cut at a point or comer of the project. Even for a pro it is almost impossible to blend
starting and ending cuts on a straight part. If your pattern doesn't have a comer, then start sawing into the pattern line
cutting across the grain. Your chances of the blade not wandering will be greater.
(When you have to start a cut on a long curve, try to cut just a little outside the line -- you can sand off the resulting
bump.)
HERE'S A PRACTICE EXERCISE FOR TECHNIQUE _
Over the years we've learned of several ways to help folks enjoy working with their new Hawks right away. Here's
a technique-building tip that has helped many get started.
Step #1-- Take a piece of paper (or draw directly on the
wood with a felt tip or ball-point pen) and draw a series
of straight and zipzag lines like the ones in the diagram.
(See fig. A-4.)
Step #2 -- After your wood is covered with lines, start
.cutting using the techniques above. After you've com- Fig. A-4
pleted this project and you're comfortable with making sharp turns and straight lines you'll be ready to start your
project.
Cutting corners and sharp turns -- This is the most exciting part of having a Hawk -- the flexibility to make a cut as
intricate or as simple as you want. Your new Hawk can make a complete 360
0
cut in a project with less then 1/64"
turning radius. When cutting a project that requires sharp turns and points. Here are a few pointers:
1. Start by making your cut all the way to the point where you want to make a sharp turn.
2. Now without feeding your project into the blade, slowly spin the wood around the blade in its own kerf. If you're
used to using a bandsaw or jigsaw, you may be tempted to "set" the blade, DON'T. If you find that while cutting
you tend to break blades often or there is smoke while you are trying to make a turn, you're not alone. Many
people have this problem -- here's an easy way to remedy your case: don't lean side to side on the blade.
3. If your project clatters on the table or it tries to pull from your hands while making turns, you may want to go to a
smaller blade. The smaller the blade size, the smaller the turning radius will be. For very intricate projects, the
smallest size blade that you are comfortable with is best. (See our recommendation chart on page 7.)
5

LET SMAKEAPROJECT------------------
Now it's time to put all that you know to work for you Remember, begin at a comer in your pattern and cut across
the grain when you first start. Follow the line around; if you' re right-handed you will probably be most comfortable
feeding your project counterclockwise (vice versa for a left-handed scro11er). It doesn't really matter which direc-
tion you cut, just go in the direction that feels most comfortable. Start at the outside of the pattern and work your way
inward.
Some folks say scrolling is a lot like driving a car - we'd have to agree. When cutting along the line you can saw
as fast or slow as you'd like by adjusting the variable speed knob. If you're cutting along and you start to wander .
from the line of the pattern, don't try tojerk back onto the line-you'll just end up with a bumpy project. The best
technique is the "near hit" method. In most cases you would have to wander more than 1/8" from your pattern line to
make an elephant look like a mushroom.
Always remember that the blade of your new Hawk is stationary and you drive your project. You must spin the wood
- the blade will not turn. This is how most folks break blades when getting started. Always remember to feed
directly into the blade - never lean to the side. Let the blade do the cutting.
After you've completed your test project, step back and take a look at your first success ...CONGRATULATIONS
Look at the sides of the project and inspect for bum marks. If there are bum marks on your projects, you've got room
for improvement on feeding straight into the blade. If your line seems a little bumpy, you'll want to concentrate on
the "near hit" technique. Now you're ready to finish your project and get going again.
Be sure to read over tile Sawing Techniques section for more tips and techniques on all types of cutting.
BLADES FOR EVERY OCCASION _
There are practically hundreds of types and styles of blades available for cutting most any material you choose. On
the next page is a chart that will help you better understand the most popular types and sizes of blades for your saw.
Fret Saw Blades
Originally designed for a hand fret saw, these blades are ideal for the power scroll saw. This is the best blade for
general cutting. It is recommended for wood, plastics, fabric, paper, and most other non-metal materials.
Diamond Blades
The diamond blade is the newest and most unique blade yet. This blade is manufactured by impregnating a round rod
with diamonds. For folks that enjoy making stained glass projects or do large amounts of ceramic and marble
cutting, the diamond blade is the answer. The diamond blade must be used with the drip tank system to keep it from
loading up with glass particles and causing the blade to break.
Jeweler's Saw Blades
These blades are designed for use in the hand held jewelers saw frame still used frequently among jewelry design-
ers. Its hardened steel composition and teeth configuration make it ideal for cutting both ferrous and non-ferrous
metals such as gold, silver, brass, and aluminum.
6

HOW TO CHANGE A BLADE FOR MODELS 220 ULTRA & 226 ULTRA ._
Front earn Benefits
With the front earn, the blade can be changed without getting off your stool or stretching to reach the back of the saw.
This feature is great when making inside cuts or for someone that isn't able to get around easily.
Here's an easy step-by-step method for changing the blade on your Hawk (220 ULTRA & 226 ULTRA.).
Step #1 - The front cam has JWo positions: the
released position (for changing blades), (see fig. -:. 1
A-5) znd the tensioned position (for sawing) (see
fig. A-6). The blade tension is adjusted with the
earn-over at the back of the saw. Begin blade chang-
ing by releasing the front cam (black handle on the
left side of the upper arm). By flipping the handle Fig. A-5 Fig. A-6
in the complete forward position your blade tension will be released. Loosen the thumb screw on the upper blade
holder to release the old sawblade.
Step #2 - Choose the size and type of blade you will be
using. (Make your selection from the blade chart located
on page 7.) Located at the front of the lower arm will be
the lower blade holder. Holding the blade holder at both
ends (with your index finger and thumb), remove it by
pushing down slightly and sliding the blade holder for-
ward. /
TEETH POINT ~
DOWN & FORWARD \
LOWER
BLADE
HOLDER -:
o
HOLD·
DOWN
ARM
ROLL
Step #3 - Now let's mount the blade in the bottom blade PIN
chuck. The lower blade holder is "T" shaped when
viewed from the front. It has a pin through the bottom and
a thumb screw to clamp the blade. To hold the chuck
while changing blades there are two holes in the hold down
arm.: Only one hole is needed; there is an extra. Place the lower blade holder against the hold down arm with the pin
in the hole and the top portion over the hold down arm (see figure above) so the blade will not rotate when the thumb
screw is turned.
Step #4 - Remove any remaining portion of the blade from the chuck. Make sure that all broken blade pieces are
cleared away. With the teeth pointing forward and down toward the chuck, insert the blade through the hole in the top
of the lower blade holder so the bottom end of the blade is touching the bottom of the hole in the chuck. The blade
must come straight out of the chuck.
Step #5 - Using the thumb screw, tighten the new blade in the chuck. Be careful not to over tighten the chuck-more
is not always better. When the blade is over tightened you will crimp the blade and weaken it at the point where the
blade enters the chuck. This will make the blade prone to breaking next to the blade holder.
Step #6 - Remove the blade holder from the hold down arm and thread the blade up through the slot in the table. Be
sure the teeth on the blade are facing the front of the saw. (See fig. A-7). Sliding the chuck back under the lower arm
in the slot. There are two notches in the lower arm for the lower blade holder to fit in. The front one is for thinner
stock (3/4" and under), and the back notch is for thicker stock (see figure on the next page).
8

Step #7 - Using your index finger, bring the upper arm down while pinching
the blade between you thumb and second finger (see fig. A-8). Push the blade
back into the slot in the front of the upper blade holder. Make sure the blade is
completely to the back of the blade holder and the top of the blade is touching
the stop pin. Tighten the blade bolder knob with your right band.
Step #8 - Now it's time to begin re-tensioning the blade. Most every differ-
ent size of blade require a little alteration in the tension put on the blade. A
good rule of thumb to remember is this: when moving to a smaller blade,
lighten the tension - wben moving to alarger blade, increase the tension slightly.
Step #9 - Begin the tensioning process by flipping the front earn back to the
tensioned position. Now begin tensioning the blade with the rear earn by slowly
moving the rear carnover handle back to the original position. Adjusting the
tension is done with the rear earn. Stop tensioning when the blade makes a
clear ping when plucked like a guitar string. For more information see BLADE
TENSIONING.
Step #10 -You're finished changing the blade Yeah Put your tools away
and you're ready to get started sawing. Each time you change the blade it will
get easier. Soon you'll be changing a blade in seconds.
Note: If you break a blade, simply place the front cam handle in the re-
leased position (to release the blade tension) and change the blade. Return
the front cam handle to the tensioned position. The tension should be cor-
rect and should not need adjusting.
SPEED CORRELATION CHART
NO. NO. SPEEDSPEED
1 300 RPM 6 1200RPM
2 500RPM 7 1325 RPM
3 725 RPM 8 1500RPM
4 850RPM 91650 RPM
51025 RPM 10 1725 RPM
TA8LE~
L01IER
BLADE
HOLDER
THIS NOTCH IS FOR
THINNER STOCK
(314' & UNDER)
Fig. A-7
Fig. A-8
BLADETENSIONING ,
To adjust the blade tension release the earn-lock at the rear of the saw by flipping the earn toward the back or away
from the front of the saw. This will release blade tension.
Clock Method: If you look at the saw from the left side (rear earn-lock at your left hand) imagine the earn-lock as the
hand of a clock. If you look at the chart on the right you will see the earn-lock in the straight up or 12 o'clock
position. The object here is to set the point at which tension starts as you lift the earn-lock toward the front of the saw
with the suggested clock position in the chart. To change the point at which tension starts you grasp the tension rod
and either spin it clockwise or counter-clockwise. Spinning it clockwise will reduce the tension (make the earn stop
9

at a higher clock position) and spinning it counter-clockwise will increase the tension (make the cam stop at a lower
clock position). Once you have tension starting at the correct clock position, pull the cam lever all the way over
toward the front of the saw and the tension will be set at the correct pressure for each blade. (If you have questions,
view the Hawk Scroll Saw Video for a visual demonstration). The positions in the diagram below are to be used as
a reference point. You may use a little more or a little less tension.
NOON
12 )
_,~~=-__ ~ :~rS~~~ON
L_ ___ .J
BLADE CHANGE -.J- -~Ar-------r-----O=--~-~
POSITION
/------>
TENSION ROO
SPRING
CAM-LOCK
BLADE TENSION CHART
BLADE CLOCK POSITION
220 226
#9 - #12
#7
#5
#2
#2/0
11:00 10:00
11: 30 10:30
11: 30 11:00
12:30 12:00
12:30 12:30
BLADE TENSION ADJUSTMENT
ADVANCEDSCROLLINGTEC~QUES .
Bevel Sawing
Bevel Sawing is a fun-way to add another dimension to a project. To make a bevel cut you simply tilt the table of
your Hawk and begin cutting. Many folks use the bevel sawing technique to create inlays, dovetail joints, and the 3- .
D pictures like the one we'll make for this project.
Make a copy of the desert pattern from your Pattern Pak and attach it to a piece of 112ft wood -just about any kind
of wood will work. Now beginning with the most inside line (in this case it's the desert floor and cactus), tilt the
saw table at 3 degrees to the right and make the first cut in a clockwise direction.
Now tilt the table 3 degrees to the left and follow the next pattern line (the ground and mountains). For the final cut,
you will need to tilt the table to the right at 4 degrees and follow the last line. Now push each piece into position to
make a fun 3-D project.
~OTE: If tilting the table more than 40° to the right, the lower blade holder needs to be reversed so the thumb screw
is on the left side of your lower arm (see figure on next page).
The bevel cutting techniques may also be used for making all types of inlays.
There is a detailed project pattern in your RBI Pattern Pak for complete in-
structions on making inlays.
Stack Cutting
This is a technique most pros use when they are making several projects of the
same pattern. Remember your Hawk bas the ability to cut up to a full 2-5/8"
thick material, so you can stack most projects at least 2ft high. There are many
ways to keep the projects from slipping while cutting. Here are a few of our
favorites:
10 Fig. A-10

LOWER
BLADE
HOLDER
-TABLE
THUMB SCREW WILL HIT THE
TABLE ON THE UPWARD STROKE
WHEN TILTED MORE THAN 40°
TO AVOID THIS, BE SURE
TO TURN THE LOWER BLADE
HOLDER AROUND. REMEMBER S;~;;;=~:J
TO TURN THE BLADE AROUND
IN THE HOLDER, TOO.
NOTE: THE TABLE TILT & BASE TILT WERE REMOVED FOR CLARITY.
• Hot Melt Glue - Many times when pros are cutting they use a hot glue gun to glue pieces all together.
They put the pieces together in a stack (remember, not more than 2 ) and run a bead of glue in a zigzag
down two sides of the project material. By making a zigzag, the material will hold together when cutting
in any direction.
• Double Sided Tape - Some Hawk owners tell us that they think the glue gun is a mess and they prefer
to use carpet layer's double stick tape. To hold your project together with tape you just sandwich a couple
of strips between each layer and you're ready to go.
• Nails - We've even talked to some real purists that prefer to stick with traditional woodworking item
andjust stack' em up and nail' em. If you use this method, be sure your nails are not sticking out of the projects
or they will scratch and mar the table surface. This is the best way to hold your stack together. Make sure
your nails are in the waste area of your project.
To practice the technique of stack cutting we will make a pair of identical shelf support brackets. For this project
you will need two pieces of 1 x 8 lumber. Any kind will do - hard or soft wood. Make sure both pieces are the
same size. Stack them up and hook them together the way you like the best. Now put your project to the side-
we've got another technique to learn before we can start cutting your project.
Note: Always make sure your table top is completely square before making a stack cut project or you will
find that the projects will be smaller on the bottom than they are at the top.
Inside Cuts .
Making an inside cut is simply cutting an opening in your project without mak-
ing an entry cut. Making inside cuts is impossible with the bandsaw, but the
Hawk can make them in a snap First, begin by drilling a hole in the scrap area
that is to be removed. Make sure the hole is big enough for the blade to fit
through.
Now you will need to release the tension on your blade. Remember the front
cam tension release lever? (It's the little black bar on the left front side of the
upper ann.) Flip the front cam lever all the way to the front. This should
release the tension on your blade. Now remove the blade from the upper blade
holder by unscrewing the knob on the right side of the upper blade chuck (see
fig. A-ll).
Fig. A-11
11