Hawk 220 Ultra User manual

Bushton Manufacturing
Maker Of
Hawk Woodworking Tools
FOR MO-DELS 220 226
ULTRA HAWKS
MANUAL #: 703-3729
/
READ THOROUGHLY BEFORE
OPERATING
CODE #: 0895

TABLE OF CONTENTS (RBI HAWK PRECISION SCROLL SAW) _
Setup 2
Maintenance 3
Safety ~ 4
Pattern Transfer Methods 4
Sawing Techniques 5
Practice Exercise 5
First Project How-To 6
Blades, Blades, Blades 6
Fret Sawblades 6
Diamond Blades ...............•................................................................................................................................ 6
Jeweler's Blades 6
Blade Descriptions 7
Blade Changing (220 Ultra & 226 Ultra) 8
Blade Tensioning 9
Advanced Scrolling Techniques 10
Bevel Sawing 10
Stack Cutting 10
Inside Cuts 11
Compound Sawing 12
Troubleshooting 12
Accessories 15
SETTINGUPYOURNEWHAWK---------- _
Your new Hawk has been completely assembled and factory tested before being prepared for shipment. All adjust-
ments have been made except for a few minor adjustments. After a few simple assembly procedures you'll be on
your way to scrolling in no time
The Hawk is shipped in three separate cartons.
Carton #1 contains the saw, manual, and blades.
Carton #2 contains the leg set, assembly hardware, and glides (rubber feet).
Carton #3 contains the Beginner's Choice Kit.
*We often ship additional items in each carton if ordered. Be sure to compare the items received with the packing
list attached to each shipment. There will be one packing list for an entire shipment. If your shipment contains more
than one carton, the packing list will be attached to the largest carton. On the packing list you will notice a customer
number has been assigned to you. Please record this number for future contact with RBI.
While removing all items from their cartons be sure toinspect each one closely for shipping damage. If you feel your
shipment may have been damaged, contact the local office of the transportation carrier. You will find their local
number in the yellow pages under Shipping Carriers.
Tools you'll need to-put your Hawk together:
7/16" wrench or ratchet
9/16" openead wrench
A pair of standard pliers
Step #1
Remove the assembly hardware from the plastic pouch and install the 3/8" hex nuts on the glides (rubber feet).
Screw them all the way down until they are next to the rubber. 2

Step #2
Insert the glides through the hole in the
bottom of each leg. Install another 3/8"
hex nut on the glide to hold it in place.
Tighten the nut down securely. By tighten-
ing down securely, machine vibration will
be considerably reduced (see fig. A-I).
Step #3
After removing everything from the box
close it back up and use it as a bench Fig. A-1 Fig. A-2
when installing the legs on your saw. Save your box in case a warranty situation arises. Turn the saw on its side
and carefully lay it on the box. Install one leg on each.comer of the base, using the 114"whiz nuts. Do not tighten
completely. The carriage bolts should be able to move freely in the slots. Tighten these with a wrench when
making final adjustments. Be sure the top of the leg is inside the base and then arrange bolt head in on the outside
with the whiz nut to the inside of the base (see fig. A-2). .
Step #4
With the legs installed, stand your new Hawk upright and securely tighten the carriage bolts on the legs with a 7/16"
wrench or ratchet. For best operation of your saw be sure to set it on a solid level floor.
Step #5
Model 220 Hawk Ultra, 726 Hawk Ultra: Remove the rubber band from the cam handle on the rear of the upper arm
and flip the earn. This will put tension on the blade. On the left hand side of the front section of the upper arm there
is a small black tension adjustment handle. Push the handle backwards and you should feel tension begin to tighten .
. ,
Step #6
The final adjustment that you will want to make is to direct the dust blower hose. The dust blower hose is connected
to the hold down arm with a hose clamp. Adjust the blower hose directly at the hole in the center of the sawtable.
When adjusting your dust blower, it should keep an area the size of a half dollar directly around the blade clear of
dust. Don't cut the exess tubing until all adjustments are made.
M INTEN NCE ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••
There are a few more things you'll want to do before you begin to saw.
Don't forget these handy tips. Later they should be done about every 20
hours of use.
Tip #1- Using light machine oil (3-in-1 brand oil is good), put a few drops
under the wedge pivot at the rear tension bar. You will also need to put a
drop of oil on each side of the pivot point bearings. (This is where the bolts
that hold the arm on are located, see fig. A-3).
Tip #2 - Use a cake of beeswax or paraffin and rub it on the round under-
side of the earn to keep friction from building up under the earn.
Tip #3 - Although we hand polished each Hawk table at the factory; after
about 20 hours of use you may want to go ahead and apply a coat of wax to
the table for protection. Apply Minwax Clear Wood Wax or Johnson Paste
Wax with light pressure in a circular motion. Polish with a clean dry cloth.
Be sure to remove all wax from the table top or it will coat your wood as you
cut and make finishing difficult.
3
Fig. A-3

LET'S GO OVER A FEW SAFETyTIPS _
Tip #1 --- Due to using a DC brush type motor, your Ultra Hawk saw cannot be plugged into a GFI (Ground Fault,
Interpretor) receptical.
Tip #2 - Never allow anyone without proper training to use your Hawk. Children should always be carefully
supervised while sawing.
Tip #3 - A clean workshop is a safe workshop. Keep your work area clean and uncluttered and especially keep
others clear of running machinery. Be sure to remove all tools and wood scraps before starting the machine.
Tip #4 - Keep your hands away from all moving parts. Never try to make any adjustments to your Hawk while it's
running. The electrical power should be disconnected before making adjustments on the machine.
Tip #5 - Dress for the occasion. Loose clothing and jewelry can be a hazard around working tools. Avoid loose
fitting clothes, long sleeves, gloves, neckties, jewelry, rings, watches, etc. If you have long hair, be sure to pull it
back. Always wear safety goggles, ear protection, and a mask in dusty operations.
Tip #6- To avoid electrical shock, do not operate your Hawk in a wet or damp area. Always keep safety guards in
place. Never leave your saw running unattended.
Tip #7 - Be sure to use good materials for a top notch job. When cutting wood, be sure it has no loose knots or
splintered surfaces.
LET'STRyIT~UT •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••
After we have tested each Hawk, we leave the "test run" blade installed. This blade is a size #7 fret saw blade.
(There are several different sizes and types of blades available but we will talk about them later.) This blade will
work very well for the beginning exercises. The most important thing to remember is to relax. Don't be afraid of the
saw --- it's a very safe tool --- but it must be respected.
For this project you will need:
1-1"x9"x 11 piece of clear soft wood (pine)
Before you begin you will need to get the pattern of the jumping dolphin puzzle located in the RBI Pattern Pak
enclosed with your saw. There are several ways to transfer patterns to your project material. Here are a couple of
our favorites:
1. Carbon Method -- Using a sheet of carbon paper (available at the local stationary shop), place it directly on the
surface you plan to cut. Lay the original pattern or a photocopy directly on top of the carbon paper and carefully
trace the pattern using a sharp pencil or a ball-point pen. Lift the pattern and carbon paper from the surface and
you're ready to cut. Warning: Depending on the material you plan to cut, the carbon from the paper is very
difficult to remove from the surface. Be sure to carefully sand away all carbon or it will tend to bleed when
finishing later.
2. Stick it - This is our favorite. Make a photocopy of the original pattern and put the original away for safe
keeping. Using the photocopy pattern, carefully spray aerosol adhesive directly to the back side of the pattern.
Place the pattern face-side-up on the surface to be cut and rub gently to make sure all edges will be secure while
cutting. Note: When choosing a spray glue, use repositionable glue. The type intended for photographs is
best. After cutting is complete, remove the pattern from the surface and lightly sand to remove glue residue
before finishing. (Some folks tell us that they use the same technique with rubber cement or a craft glue stick
instead of spray adhesive.) 4

For your first project it's better to choose a soft wood to cut. We recommend sugar pine or ponderosa pine if it's
available. Take the pattern of the jumping dolphin puzzle and prepare your project to be cut by attaching the pattern
by the method you think will work best.
Now it's time to adjust the "hold down" foot on your Hawk to fit the thichness of the lumber you will be cutting. The
"hold down" foot is the black nylon (plastic) piece that surrounds the blade on your saw. Using the knob on the right
hand side of the saw located next to the upper arm, loosen the knob and raise the "hold down" foot. Now place the
project you plan to cut on the table and bring the "hold down" foot back down until it gently rests on the surface of
your project. Tighten the knob .
.SAWING TECHNIQUES THE PROFESSIONALS USE _
It is best to always start your cut at a point or comer of the project. Even for a pro it is almost impossible to blend
starting and ending cuts on a straight part. If your pattern doesn't have a comer, then start sawing into the pattern line
cutting across the grain. Your chances of the blade not wandering will be greater.
(When you have to start a cut on a long curve, try to cut just a little outside the line -- you can sand off the resulting
bump.)
HERE'S A PRACTICE EXERCISE FOR TECHNIQUE _
Over the years we've learned of several ways to help folks enjoy working with their new Hawks right away. Here's
a technique-building tip that has helped many get started.
Step #1-- Take a piece of paper (or draw directly on the
wood with a felt tip or ball-point pen) and draw a series
of straight and zipzag lines like the ones in the diagram.
(See fig. A-4.)
Step #2 -- After your wood is covered with lines, start
.cutting using the techniques above. After you've com- Fig. A-4
pleted this project and you're comfortable with making sharp turns and straight lines you'll be ready to start your
project.
Cutting corners and sharp turns -- This is the most exciting part of having a Hawk -- the flexibility to make a cut as
intricate or as simple as you want. Your new Hawk can make a complete 360
0
cut in a project with less then 1/64"
turning radius. When cutting a project that requires sharp turns and points. Here are a few pointers:
1. Start by making your cut all the way to the point where you want to make a sharp turn.
2. Now without feeding your project into the blade, slowly spin the wood around the blade in its own kerf. If you're
used to using a bandsaw or jigsaw, you may be tempted to "set" the blade, DON'T. If you find that while cutting
you tend to break blades often or there is smoke while you are trying to make a turn, you're not alone. Many
people have this problem -- here's an easy way to remedy your case: don't lean side to side on the blade.
3. If your project clatters on the table or it tries to pull from your hands while making turns, you may want to go to a
smaller blade. The smaller the blade size, the smaller the turning radius will be. For very intricate projects, the
smallest size blade that you are comfortable with is best. (See our recommendation chart on page 7.)
5

LET SMAKEAPROJECT------------------
Now it's time to put all that you know to work for you Remember, begin at a comer in your pattern and cut across
the grain when you first start. Follow the line around; if you' re right-handed you will probably be most comfortable
feeding your project counterclockwise (vice versa for a left-handed scro11er). It doesn't really matter which direc-
tion you cut, just go in the direction that feels most comfortable. Start at the outside of the pattern and work your way
inward.
Some folks say scrolling is a lot like driving a car - we'd have to agree. When cutting along the line you can saw
as fast or slow as you'd like by adjusting the variable speed knob. If you're cutting along and you start to wander .
from the line of the pattern, don't try tojerk back onto the line-you'll just end up with a bumpy project. The best
technique is the "near hit" method. In most cases you would have to wander more than 1/8" from your pattern line to
make an elephant look like a mushroom.
Always remember that the blade of your new Hawk is stationary and you drive your project. You must spin the wood
- the blade will not turn. This is how most folks break blades when getting started. Always remember to feed
directly into the blade - never lean to the side. Let the blade do the cutting.
After you've completed your test project, step back and take a look at your first success ...CONGRATULATIONS
Look at the sides of the project and inspect for bum marks. If there are bum marks on your projects, you've got room
for improvement on feeding straight into the blade. If your line seems a little bumpy, you'll want to concentrate on
the "near hit" technique. Now you're ready to finish your project and get going again.
Be sure to read over tile Sawing Techniques section for more tips and techniques on all types of cutting.
BLADES FOR EVERY OCCASION _
There are practically hundreds of types and styles of blades available for cutting most any material you choose. On
the next page is a chart that will help you better understand the most popular types and sizes of blades for your saw.
Fret Saw Blades
Originally designed for a hand fret saw, these blades are ideal for the power scroll saw. This is the best blade for
general cutting. It is recommended for wood, plastics, fabric, paper, and most other non-metal materials.
Diamond Blades
The diamond blade is the newest and most unique blade yet. This blade is manufactured by impregnating a round rod
with diamonds. For folks that enjoy making stained glass projects or do large amounts of ceramic and marble
cutting, the diamond blade is the answer. The diamond blade must be used with the drip tank system to keep it from
loading up with glass particles and causing the blade to break.
Jeweler's Saw Blades
These blades are designed for use in the hand held jewelers saw frame still used frequently among jewelry design-
ers. Its hardened steel composition and teeth configuration make it ideal for cutting both ferrous and non-ferrous
metals such as gold, silver, brass, and aluminum.
6

HOW TO CHANGE A BLADE FOR MODELS 220 ULTRA & 226 ULTRA ._
Front earn Benefits
With the front earn, the blade can be changed without getting off your stool or stretching to reach the back of the saw.
This feature is great when making inside cuts or for someone that isn't able to get around easily.
Here's an easy step-by-step method for changing the blade on your Hawk (220 ULTRA & 226 ULTRA.).
Step #1 - The front cam has JWo positions: the
released position (for changing blades), (see fig. -:. 1
A-5) znd the tensioned position (for sawing) (see
fig. A-6). The blade tension is adjusted with the
earn-over at the back of the saw. Begin blade chang-
ing by releasing the front cam (black handle on the
left side of the upper arm). By flipping the handle Fig. A-5 Fig. A-6
in the complete forward position your blade tension will be released. Loosen the thumb screw on the upper blade
holder to release the old sawblade.
Step #2 - Choose the size and type of blade you will be
using. (Make your selection from the blade chart located
on page 7.) Located at the front of the lower arm will be
the lower blade holder. Holding the blade holder at both
ends (with your index finger and thumb), remove it by
pushing down slightly and sliding the blade holder for-
ward. /
TEETH POINT ~
DOWN & FORWARD \
LOWER
BLADE
HOLDER -:
o
HOLD·
DOWN
ARM
ROLL
Step #3 - Now let's mount the blade in the bottom blade PIN
chuck. The lower blade holder is "T" shaped when
viewed from the front. It has a pin through the bottom and
a thumb screw to clamp the blade. To hold the chuck
while changing blades there are two holes in the hold down
arm.: Only one hole is needed; there is an extra. Place the lower blade holder against the hold down arm with the pin
in the hole and the top portion over the hold down arm (see figure above) so the blade will not rotate when the thumb
screw is turned.
Step #4 - Remove any remaining portion of the blade from the chuck. Make sure that all broken blade pieces are
cleared away. With the teeth pointing forward and down toward the chuck, insert the blade through the hole in the top
of the lower blade holder so the bottom end of the blade is touching the bottom of the hole in the chuck. The blade
must come straight out of the chuck.
Step #5 - Using the thumb screw, tighten the new blade in the chuck. Be careful not to over tighten the chuck-more
is not always better. When the blade is over tightened you will crimp the blade and weaken it at the point where the
blade enters the chuck. This will make the blade prone to breaking next to the blade holder.
Step #6 - Remove the blade holder from the hold down arm and thread the blade up through the slot in the table. Be
sure the teeth on the blade are facing the front of the saw. (See fig. A-7). Sliding the chuck back under the lower arm
in the slot. There are two notches in the lower arm for the lower blade holder to fit in. The front one is for thinner
stock (3/4" and under), and the back notch is for thicker stock (see figure on the next page).
8

Step #7 - Using your index finger, bring the upper arm down while pinching
the blade between you thumb and second finger (see fig. A-8). Push the blade
back into the slot in the front of the upper blade holder. Make sure the blade is
completely to the back of the blade holder and the top of the blade is touching
the stop pin. Tighten the blade bolder knob with your right band.
Step #8 - Now it's time to begin re-tensioning the blade. Most every differ-
ent size of blade require a little alteration in the tension put on the blade. A
good rule of thumb to remember is this: when moving to a smaller blade,
lighten the tension - wben moving to alarger blade, increase the tension slightly.
Step #9 - Begin the tensioning process by flipping the front earn back to the
tensioned position. Now begin tensioning the blade with the rear earn by slowly
moving the rear carnover handle back to the original position. Adjusting the
tension is done with the rear earn. Stop tensioning when the blade makes a
clear ping when plucked like a guitar string. For more information see BLADE
TENSIONING.
Step #10 -You're finished changing the blade Yeah Put your tools away
and you're ready to get started sawing. Each time you change the blade it will
get easier. Soon you'll be changing a blade in seconds.
Note: If you break a blade, simply place the front cam handle in the re-
leased position (to release the blade tension) and change the blade. Return
the front cam handle to the tensioned position. The tension should be cor-
rect and should not need adjusting.
SPEED CORRELATION CHART
NO. NO. SPEEDSPEED
1 300 RPM 6 1200RPM
2 500RPM 7 1325 RPM
3 725 RPM 8 1500RPM
4 850RPM 91650 RPM
51025 RPM 10 1725 RPM
TA8LE~
L01IER
BLADE
HOLDER
THIS NOTCH IS FOR
THINNER STOCK
(314' & UNDER)
Fig. A-7
Fig. A-8
BLADETENSIONING ,
To adjust the blade tension release the earn-lock at the rear of the saw by flipping the earn toward the back or away
from the front of the saw. This will release blade tension.
Clock Method: If you look at the saw from the left side (rear earn-lock at your left hand) imagine the earn-lock as the
hand of a clock. If you look at the chart on the right you will see the earn-lock in the straight up or 12 o'clock
position. The object here is to set the point at which tension starts as you lift the earn-lock toward the front of the saw
with the suggested clock position in the chart. To change the point at which tension starts you grasp the tension rod
and either spin it clockwise or counter-clockwise. Spinning it clockwise will reduce the tension (make the earn stop
9

at a higher clock position) and spinning it counter-clockwise will increase the tension (make the cam stop at a lower
clock position). Once you have tension starting at the correct clock position, pull the cam lever all the way over
toward the front of the saw and the tension will be set at the correct pressure for each blade. (If you have questions,
view the Hawk Scroll Saw Video for a visual demonstration). The positions in the diagram below are to be used as
a reference point. You may use a little more or a little less tension.
NOON
12 )
_,~~=-__ ~ :~rS~~~ON
L_ ___ .J
BLADE CHANGE -.J- -~Ar-------r-----O=--~-~
POSITION
/------>
TENSION ROO
SPRING
CAM-LOCK
BLADE TENSION CHART
BLADE CLOCK POSITION
220 226
#9 - #12
#7
#5
#2
#2/0
11:00 10:00
11: 30 10:30
11: 30 11:00
12:30 12:00
12:30 12:30
BLADE TENSION ADJUSTMENT
ADVANCEDSCROLLINGTEC~QUES .
Bevel Sawing
Bevel Sawing is a fun-way to add another dimension to a project. To make a bevel cut you simply tilt the table of
your Hawk and begin cutting. Many folks use the bevel sawing technique to create inlays, dovetail joints, and the 3- .
D pictures like the one we'll make for this project.
Make a copy of the desert pattern from your Pattern Pak and attach it to a piece of 112ft wood -just about any kind
of wood will work. Now beginning with the most inside line (in this case it's the desert floor and cactus), tilt the
saw table at 3 degrees to the right and make the first cut in a clockwise direction.
Now tilt the table 3 degrees to the left and follow the next pattern line (the ground and mountains). For the final cut,
you will need to tilt the table to the right at 4 degrees and follow the last line. Now push each piece into position to
make a fun 3-D project.
~OTE: If tilting the table more than 40° to the right, the lower blade holder needs to be reversed so the thumb screw
is on the left side of your lower arm (see figure on next page).
The bevel cutting techniques may also be used for making all types of inlays.
There is a detailed project pattern in your RBI Pattern Pak for complete in-
structions on making inlays.
Stack Cutting
This is a technique most pros use when they are making several projects of the
same pattern. Remember your Hawk bas the ability to cut up to a full 2-5/8"
thick material, so you can stack most projects at least 2ft high. There are many
ways to keep the projects from slipping while cutting. Here are a few of our
favorites:
10 Fig. A-10

LOWER
BLADE
HOLDER
-TABLE
THUMB SCREW WILL HIT THE
TABLE ON THE UPWARD STROKE
WHEN TILTED MORE THAN 40°
TO AVOID THIS, BE SURE
TO TURN THE LOWER BLADE
HOLDER AROUND. REMEMBER S;~;;;=~:J
TO TURN THE BLADE AROUND
IN THE HOLDER, TOO.
NOTE: THE TABLE TILT & BASE TILT WERE REMOVED FOR CLARITY.
• Hot Melt Glue - Many times when pros are cutting they use a hot glue gun to glue pieces all together.
They put the pieces together in a stack (remember, not more than 2 ) and run a bead of glue in a zigzag
down two sides of the project material. By making a zigzag, the material will hold together when cutting
in any direction.
• Double Sided Tape - Some Hawk owners tell us that they think the glue gun is a mess and they prefer
to use carpet layer's double stick tape. To hold your project together with tape you just sandwich a couple
of strips between each layer and you're ready to go.
• Nails - We've even talked to some real purists that prefer to stick with traditional woodworking item
andjust stack' em up and nail' em. If you use this method, be sure your nails are not sticking out of the projects
or they will scratch and mar the table surface. This is the best way to hold your stack together. Make sure
your nails are in the waste area of your project.
To practice the technique of stack cutting we will make a pair of identical shelf support brackets. For this project
you will need two pieces of 1 x 8 lumber. Any kind will do - hard or soft wood. Make sure both pieces are the
same size. Stack them up and hook them together the way you like the best. Now put your project to the side-
we've got another technique to learn before we can start cutting your project.
Note: Always make sure your table top is completely square before making a stack cut project or you will
find that the projects will be smaller on the bottom than they are at the top.
Inside Cuts .
Making an inside cut is simply cutting an opening in your project without mak-
ing an entry cut. Making inside cuts is impossible with the bandsaw, but the
Hawk can make them in a snap First, begin by drilling a hole in the scrap area
that is to be removed. Make sure the hole is big enough for the blade to fit
through.
Now you will need to release the tension on your blade. Remember the front
cam tension release lever? (It's the little black bar on the left front side of the
upper ann.) Flip the front cam lever all the way to the front. This should
release the tension on your blade. Now remove the blade from the upper blade
holder by unscrewing the knob on the right side of the upper blade chuck (see
fig. A-ll).
Fig. A-11
11

Tilt the blade forward to the front of the slot in the table and thread the
blade through the hole you drilled. You're now ready to replace the
blade in the upper blade chuck and put your front tension cam back in its
tensioned position (see fig. A-12).
After you have made your cut, release the blade tension again, remove
the top end of the blade from the top blade holder, and remove the
workpiece. You did it
Here's where your project comes in - there's a few inside cuts. You
need to drill a hole in the shaded area of the pattern and follow the
instructions above for technique. Be sure to cut out all shaded sections
in the pattern, Now you've made the brackets into a beautiful ginger bread-style shelf These are great to use as
shelf brackets, or you might even want to finish them and put them in a window or doorway just to add a warm touch.
Fig. A-12
Compound Sawing
This is probably the toughest technique to learn for most folks, but making a compound cut can certainly be reward-
ing when you finally master it. By cutting all four sides of a project you add a completely new dimension to a simple
project We've enclosed a pattern for one of our favorite Christmas tree ornaments for you to try.
To begin your compound cut project you will need a 2 x2 x 4" piece of softwood. Our favorite is basswood.
Begin by taking the face pattern (the one that looks like you're looking at a reindeer head on), and attach the pattern
(the one that looks like the.profile of a reindeer) and glue it on the adjoining side. Now using the cutting techniques
you've already learned, cut out the face pattern. Be sure to keep all the pieces if they separate.
-
After you have made the entire face cut, carefully put all of the pieces together and tape them securely back in their
original place with masking tape. Now take the profile pattern and cut it out in the same way you did the face pattern.
After you take all the pieces apart you will find a perfectly dimensioned reindeer inside. (This is a fun way to make
brain teaser puzzles.) Some wood carvers tell us they like to cut out their blanks first by compound cutting, then they
finish them with carving tools.
TROUBLESHOOTING ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••
If you're getting a little frustrated, here are some troubleshooting tips that might help.
• Excessive Blade Breakage
If you think you're breaking a lot of blades, here are a few tips:
A. Be sure you are using the right size and type of blade for the material you are trying to cut. You can make sure
by checking the blade recommendation chart on page 7.
B. If the blade tends to break right above the bottom blade chuck, your blade is not installed in the lower blade
chuck correctly. Helpful hint: be sure the blade is coming straight out of the blade chuck as pictured on page
8. Remember - when tightening the blade, don't over tighten. If you tighten the chuck too tightly you' 11
crimp the blade and weaken it just above the blade chuck. This will cause the blade to break.
C. If the blade is breaking just below the upper blade chuck, chances are that you are not getting it in the upper
blade chuck correctly. Remember - the blade must be all the way to the back of the slot and the top of the
blade must be touching the roll pin.
12

• Wood is Jumping on Table
1. Constant down pressure must always be applied while cutting. In most cases the weight of your hand is more
than enough to keep the project on the table, but you must maintain the pressure during the entire cutting
process.
2. If you prefer, every Hawk comes complete with a hold down foot that surrounds the blade and keeps the
project securely to the table. (Be sure you have lowered the hold down foot to touch the top of the surface.)
3. You may find that you are using a blade that is too large for the type of cutting you are doing. If the blade is
too coarse, the project will lift from the worktable when making turns.
REMEMBER --- We are only aphone call away. If you ever have a question regard-
ing your Hawk or its operation, just give us a call at 1-800-487-2623. Our customer
service representatives are on call from 8 a.m. to 5p.m. (Central time), Monday through
Friday.
ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS AND ACCESSORIES _
To speed delivery and reduce errors when ordering parts always give the name, model number, and serial number of
your machine. Use the part number and description as shown in the parts list. Do not use the key numbers (the
numbers in the circles on the parts breakdown drawing), always use the part number and description given in the
parts list.
1. Give complete machine identification.
A. Machine Name _
B. Model Number _
C. Serial Number _
2. Completely identify the part.
(Return the old part if necessary)
A. Part Number _
B. Part Name _
3. State your return address.
Your Name _
Company _
Street Address _
Mailing Address _
City State__ Zip _
Telephone( ) _
4. Send the order to rbindustries.
14

ACCESSORIES FOR YOURNEWHAWK _
Precision Blade Square
For the precision scroller, the blade square is a must. Because the kerf of a scroll
saw blade is so small, your worktable must be perfectly square when working in
thick materials or a tapered cut will occur. By using this precision made machinist's
square you can quickly check your table alignment with complete confidence.
865-0700 $15.95
Dust Cover
This handy all-weather dust cover protects your Hawk saw from the harmful effects
of workshop dust. Made from high-tech polycarbonate materials, it's designed for a
lifetime to keep your Hawk from harm's way. One size fits all models.
865-0900 $16.95
Apron
Protect your clothes from sawdust and chips and let folks know you're a proud
member of the RBI family with this RBI signature work apron. Made from heavy-
duty polyester poplin, this apron is machine washable and stain resistant. Adjust-
able neck and waist straps make this a perfect fit for any crafter.
865-0600 Heavy-duty Cotton $10.95
865-0601 Denim $ 7.95
Magnifier Light
This premium quality magnifier light is a must for those who make small, intricate
projects with their Hawks. This optical quality lens clearly magnifies your project
to a 3 diopter, so you can see every detail while cutting. Mounts right to your saw or
a benchmount clamp is included for other uses.
865-1210 $99.95
Blade Rack
Oh no-you've broken another saw blade. That's all right-there's no extra stretching
or effort involved thanks to your handy RBI blade rack. This little device mounts
easily on one of the table legs of your Hawk, and lets you choose from one of six of
the extra blades that it holds.
965-0200 $12.95
Books
We carry a large selection of books on scroll
sawing. These include books on technique as well
as pattern books. Please call for details.
Foot Switch
On-off switch enables user to turn the saw on and off
by foot, leaving the hands free. The scroll saw plugs
into the foot switch and the foot switch plugs into the
wall, no wiring required.
865-0100 $24.95
15

PARTS LIST MODEL 220 ULTRA HAWK
To speed up delivery and reduce errors when ordering parts always give the name, model number, and serial
number of your machine. Use the part number and description as shown in the parts list. Do not use the key
number (the numbers in the circles on the parts breakdown drawing). Always use the part number and description
given in the parts list.
Key #Part #Description Qty. Key
# Part # Description Qty.
01 615-4217 SAW BASE, ULTRA 220 154 715-0255 10-32 X 112SHCS(UNB) Wff-KNOB 1
02 600-2007 SAW LEGS 4 55 715-0256 10-32 X 3/16 SSS FL. PT. (UNBRAKO) 1
03 615-2214 ARM SUPPORT, ULTRA 220 2 56 790-0031 10-32 X 3/16 SSS, KNURL CUP PT 1
04 615-1212 TOP ARM, ULTRA 220 1 57 710-0035 10-32 X 114RD lID MACH. SCREW 2
os
615-4213 BOTTOM ARM, ULTRA 220 1 58 745-0106 10-32 X 112RD HD MACH. SCREW 2
Cf7
615-2215 HOLD DOWN ARM . 1 59 745-0107 10-32 HEX NUT 1
08 605-5005 LARGE SAW TABLE, 2201226 1
so
780-0019 10/32 X 1 RD HD MACH. SCREW 1
00
615-2211 REAR TABLE SUPPORT BRKT 1
61 715-0191 3/16 INTERNAL LOCK WASHER 2
10 615-3027 TALL BASE TILT 1 62 745-0112 3116ID X 1I20D RIVET BURR 2
11 615-3020 TABLE TILT 163 715-0221 1/4-20 X 1I2SHCS (UNB) Wff-KNOB 1
12 715-0236 TABLE TILT SCALE, ALUM. 1 64 791-0053 114-20 X 1/4 SSS FL. PT. (UNBRAKO)
1
13 615-1263 COUNTERWEIGHT, ULTRA 220/226 1 65 715-0103 1I4ID X 3/40D X 1/16 NY. SPACER 3
14 615-2261 CARRIER BEARING CRADLE 1 66 715-0244 114-20 X 3/4 FL HD SKT CAP SCW 2
15 715-0262 CARRIER BEARING 1 67 725-0043 114-20 X 1/2 HEX HD BOLT 2
~6 615-4193 PITMAN ARM 1 68 615-1183 1/4-20 X 3/4 SHCS Wff-KNOB 1
17 735-0007 112IDBALL BEARING 2 70 735-0052 1/4-20 X 1 HEX HD BOLT 4
18 715-5181 UPPER BLADE HOLDER 1 71 735-0080 1/4-20 X 1-114 HEX HD BOLT 3
19 615-5153 TOP BLADE HOLDER BRKT
1
72 745-0099 114-20X 5/8 CARRIAGE BOL T
24
20 715-2154 FRONTCAM 1 73 745-0177 114FLAT WASHER 14
21 715-1168 FRONT CAM HANDLE 174 745-0223 114-20FLANGED LOCKfWHIZ NUT
28
22 715-0164 CAP, BLACK RUBBER, 3" LONG 1 75 750-0206 114-20 X 3/4 HEX lID BOLT 4
23 715-0252 LOWER BLADE HOLDER 176 750-0207 114SPLIT LOCK WASHER 10
24 715-0099 PLASTIC C-CLIP 1 77 750-0213 114-20 X 2 CARRIAGE BOL T 1
25 615-0220 TENSION ROD 9" 178 770-0095 1/4-20 X 114SOC. ST SCW, KNURL PT I
26 615-1074 REAR CAM-OVER HANDLE 179 715-0078 1/4-20 NYLON LOCK HEX NUT 1
27
715-0075 ALUMINUM WEDGE PIVOT 180 790-0059 114-20 X 1-1/4 SOc. HD CAP SCREW 4
28 715-0077 CAM-OVER HANDLE ROUND PIVOT
1
81 715-1120 5116ID X 7/80D X 118NY. SPACER
1
29 715-0216 LOWER PIVOT ROUND 1 82 745-0150 5/16 FLAT WASHER 3
30 710-2036 SPRING 183 745-0517 5116ID X 1I20D X 114NYLON SP ACER 2
31 715-1208 THRUST BEARING, SHIELDED 484 770-0080 5/16-18 FLANGED LOCKIWHIZ NUT 2
32 715-0264 112"IDBRASS BUSHING 285 770-0178 5/16 SPLIT LOCK WASHER
2
33 685-2012 HOLD DOWN FOOT ROD 1 86 770-0181 5/16-18 X 1 HEX lID BOLT 3
34 715-0104 HOLD DOViTNFOOT 187 770-0058 3/8-16 HEX NUT 9
35 615-1222 MOTOR BRACE 1 88 770-0071 3/8 SPLIT LOCK WASHER 1
36 615-0260 ARM SUPPORT BRACE 1
so
625-0033 112X 112SOC HD SHLDR BOLT, GR 1
37 615-1025 BLOWER BELLOW BRACKET 1 91 715-0014 1I2IDX 3/40D X 18GA WASHER 6
38 715-0024 BLOWER BELLOWS 1 92 715-0210 1/2-13 NEOPRENE LOCK NUT 2
39 715-0275 3/8 NYLON HOSE CLAMP 293 715-0229 1/2-13 X 3-3/4 HEX BOLT 2
40 704-0013 MOTOR,1I8HP, 90V DC 1 94 715-1109 112X 1 RD lID SOC. SHLDR BOL T 1
41 715-0259 VARIABLE SPEED DC CONTROL
1
95
715-2070 SERIAL TAG, #220 1
42 705-1042 5/16-18 X 1-1/4 SQUARE KNOB 196 703-3729 MANUAL, HAWK SAWS, ULTRA 1
43 615-0268 KNOB SPACER 1703-0700 WARRANTY CARD, GENERAL
1
44 715-0101 SCROLL SAW POINTER 1715-0094 DECAL, ALL GUARDS IN PLACE 1
45 715-0273 RUBBER GROMMET, 3/8" ID 2702-0011 DECAL, FINGERS FROM UNDER ARM
1
46 715-0274 3/8" OD TUBING 55 745-0205 DECAL, MADE IN USA, OCTAGON 1
47 705-0057 GLIDES 4 715-0092 DECAL, RBI HAWK 1
48 710-0042 1/8 X 3/4 ROLL PIN 3702-0002 DECAL, RBI MADE IN USA, ROUND 1
49 7l5-0201
5/64 X 3/8 ROLL PIN 1 702-0025 DECAL, SAW PATENT NUMBERS 1
50 715-0205 3/16 X 112ROLL PIN 1 715-0091 DECAL, SCROLLER'S HOTLINE 1
51 710-0012 #7 X 5/16 RD HD DRIVE SCREW 7702-0034 DECAL, BLADE TENSIONING CHART
1
52 715-0247 8-32 X 1 RD HD MACHINE SCREW 2 615-1231 LOWER BLADE HOLDER ASSEMBLY
53 791-0050 8-32 HEX NUT 2615-1182 UPPER BLADE HOLDER ASSEMBLY
615-1251 BOLT BAG FOR SAW LEGS
16

PARTS BREAKDOWN
220 ULTRA HAWK
17

PARTS LIST MODEL 226 ULTRA HAWK
To speed up delivery and reduce errors when ordering parts always give the name, model number, and serial
number of your machine. Use the part number and description as shown in the parts list. Do not use the key
number (the numbers-in-the circles on the parts breakdown drawing). Always use the part number and description
given in the parts list.
Key # Part # Description Qty, Key # Part # Description Qty.
01 615-5225 SAW BASE, ULTRA 226 1 55 715-0256 10-32 X 3/16 SSS FL. PT. (UNBRAKO) 1
02 600-2fXJ7 SAW LEGS 4 56 790-0031 10-32 X 3/16 SSS, KNURL CUP PT 1
03 615-1241 ARM SUPPORT, ULTRA 226 2 57 710-0035 10-32 X 1/4 RD HD MACH. SCREW 3
():l 615-1237 TOP ARM, ULTRA 226 1 58 745-0106 10-32 X 112RD HD MACH. SCREW 2
05 600-0037 TOP ARM REINFORCEMENT 159 745-0107 10-32 HEX NUT 1
06 615-4238 BOTTOM ARM, ULTRA 226 1 60 780-0019 10/32 X 1 RD HD MACH. SCREW 1
(J/
615-4066 . HOLD DOWN ARM 161 715-0191 3/16 INTERNAL LOCK WASHER 2
08 605~5005 LARGE SAW TABLE, 220/226 1 62 745-0112 3/161D X 1I20D RIVET BURR 2
00 615-0270 REAR TABLE SUPPORT BRKT 163 715-0221 114-20 X 112SHCS (UNB) WIT-KNOB 1
10 615-3027 TALL BASE TILT 164 791-0053
114-20 X 114 SSS FL. PT. (UNBRAKO) 1
11 615-3020 TABLE TILT 1 65 715-0103 1I41D X 3/40D X 1/16 NY. SPACER 3
12 715-0236 TABLE TILT SCALE, ALUM. 166 715-0244 114-20 X
3/4 FL HD SKT CAP SCW 2
13 615-1263 COUNTERWEIGHT, ULTRA 220/226 1 68 615-1183 114-20X 3/4 SHCS WIT-KNOB 1
14 615-2261 CARRIER BEARING CRADLE 1 69 735-0017 114-20 X
3/4 SKT HD CAP SCREW 2
15 715-0262 CARRIER BEARING 1 70 735-0052 114-20X 1 HEXHDBOLT 4
16 615-4193 PITMAN AR..TvI 1 71 735-0080 114-20X 1-114HEX HD BOLT 3
17 735-0007 l2ID BALL BEARING 272 745-0099 114-20X
5/8 CARRIAGE BOLT 20
18 715-5181 UPPER BLADE HOLDER 173 745-0177 114FLAT WASHER 14
19 615-5153 TOP BLADE HOLDER BRKT 1 74 745-0223
1/4-20 FLAl'1GED LOCKIWillZ NUT 24
20 715-2154 FRONTCAM 1 75 750-0206
114-20 X 3/4 HEX HD BOLT 8
21 715-1168 FRONT CAM 'HANDLE 1 76 750-0207 114SPLIT LOCK WASHER 14
22 715-0164 CAP, BLACK RUBBER, 3" LONG 177 750-0213
1/4-20 X 2 CARRIAGE BOL T 1
23 715-0252 LOWER" BLADE HOLDER 1 78 77O-WJ5 1/4-20 X
114SOC. ST SCW, KNURL PT 1
24 715-0099 PLASTIC C-CLIP 179 715-0078 114-20 NYLON LOCK HEX NUT
2D
615-0220 TENSION ROD, 9" 180 790-0059 114-20 X 1-114SOC. HD CAP SCREW 4
26 615-1074 REAR CAM-OVER HANDLE 1 81 715-1120 5/16ID X
7/80D X 1I8 NY. SPACER 1
7;l 715-0075 ALUMINUM WEDGE PIVOT 182 745-0150 5/16 FLAT WASHER 3
28 715-0077 CAM-OVER HANDLE ROUND PrvOT 1 83 745-0517 51l6ID X
1I20D X 1I4 NYLON SP ACER 1
29 715-0216 LOWER PIVOT ROUND 184 770-0080 5/16-18 FLANGED LOCKIWlllZ NUT 2
30 710-2036 SPRING 185 770-0178 5/16 SPUT LOCK WASHER 2
31 715-1208 THRUST BEARING, SHIELDED 4 86 770-0181 5/16-18 X 1 HEX HD BOLT 2
32 715-0264 1/2"ID BRASS BUSHING 2 'OJ
770-0058 3/8-16 HEX NUT 9
33 685-2012 HOLD DOWN FOOT ROD 1 88 770-0071 3/8 SPLIT LOCK WASHER 1
34 715-0104 HOLD DOWN FOOT
I 89 707-6041 5116-18 X 1-l/4 HEX HD BOLT 1
35 615-1222 MOTOR BRACE 1 S\J
625-0033 1I2 X
112 SOC HD SHLDR BOLT, GR 1
37 615-1025 BLOWER BELLOW BRACKET 1 91 715-0014 1/2ID X 3/40D X 18GA WASHER 6
38 715-0024 BLOWER BELLOWS 192 715-0210 1/2-13 NEOPRENE LOCK NUT 2
39 715-0275 3/8" NYLON HOSE CLAMP 293 715-0229
112-13 X 3-3/4 HEX BOLT 2
40
704-0013 MOTOR,1I8HP, 90V DC 1 94
715-1109 112X 1 RD HD
SOc. SHLDR BOL T 1
41 715-0259 VARIABLE SPEED DC CONTROL 1 95 700-1034 SERIAL TAG, #226
1
42 705-1042
5fl6-18 X 1-114 SQUARE KNOB
1
96 703-3729 MANUAL, HAWK SAWS, ULTRA
1
43 615-0268 KNOB SPACER
1 703-0700 WARRANTY CARD, GENERAL 1
44 715-0101 SCROLL SAW POINTER I
715-0094 DECAL, ALL GUARDS IN PLACE 1
45 . 715-0273 RUBBER GROMMET,
3/8 ID 2702-0011 DECAL, FINGERS FROM UNDER ARM 1
46 715-0274 3/80D TUBING (BY THE INCH) 61 745-0205 DECAL, MADE IN USA, OCT AGON
1
47 705-0057 GLIDES 4715-0092 DECAL, RBI HAWK 1
48 710-0042 118X 3/4 ROLL PIN 3702-(xx)2 DECAL, RBI MADE IN USA, ROUND 1
49 715-0201 5/64 X 3/8 ROLL PIN 1702-0025 DECAL, SAW PATENT NUMBERS 1
50 715-0205 3/16 X 112ROLL PIN 1 715-0091 DECAL, SCROLLER'S HOTLINE 1
.51 710-0012 #7 X 5/16 RD HD DRrvE SCREW 7 702-0034 DECAL, BLADE TENSIONING CHART 1
;i2 715-0247 8-32 X 1 RD HD MACHINE SCREW 2 615-1231 LOWER BLADE HOLDER ASSEMBLY
53
791-0050 8-32 HEX NUT 2 615-1182 UPPER BLADE HOLDER ASSEMBLY
54 715-0255 10-32 X
1/2 SHCS(UNB) Wrr-KNOB 1615-1251 BOLT BAG FOR SAW LEGS
18

PARTSBREA
226 ULTRA KDOWN
HAWK
, ,