
4
Speaker Placement
Once installed, in-wall / in-ceiling speakers are not easily moved or repositioned. Take a little extra time to carefully consider a good
speaker location before you begin. As a general rule, the speakers should be mounted close to, or above, ear level and at least
one-third of the distance from the corner of the room to the center of the wall or ceiling in which you will mount them. For further
assistance, see our web site for speaker placement guidelines in both surround sound and whole-house applications.
Unlike traditional speakers, in-wall / in-ceiling speakers mount ush, and most cannot be angled or aimed back into the listening
area from the corner of a room. While most of the frequency range diffuses evenly, high frequencies reproduced by the tweeter
are slightly more directional. Because they feature a pivoting tweeter, our HTD SDX In-Wall / In-Ceiling Speakers address this
issue by allowing you to aim these high frequencies directly toward the primary listening area while still maintaining a ush-mount
appearance.
Placement can also impact the overall performance of a speaker. In general, the closer to a wall or corner you place a speaker,
the more the lower frequencies are enhanced. Some listeners will prefer the added bass, others might classify the sound as too
“boomy”. HTD SDX In-Wall / In-Ceiling speakers allow you to compensate for the impact of speaker placement. This is done by
slightly increasing or decreasing the output level of the higher (tweeter) frequencies using a +/- 3dB tweeter switch. This switch is
located on the front bafe of the speaker for easy access. Adjust this level to suit your room and listening taste prior to installing
either of the included grille options.
Connecting the Speaker Cable
The terminals will easily accommodate up to 14-gauge speaker wire, which should be used for longer connections (greater than 50
feet). For shorter distances, 16-gauge wire may sufce, although we still recommend 14-gauge for best performance. For behind-
the-wall/ceiling installations, we recommend using UL Class 3 approved cable (marked “CL3”) for compliance with local building
codes. Please consider using high quality HTD cable for all of your home theater and whole-house audio installations. HTD cable
offers the extra benet of being shielded, with exceptional performance, and of course is priced signicantly lower than retail.
HTD recommends leaving at least two feet of extra wire at the speaker end to make installation and positioning of the speaker
easier. Do not use staples, nails or other metal objects to secure the speaker wire. The resulting short could affect your system’s
performance, and potentially damage other components in your system, especially the amplier. You will get the best sound
quality and help to reduce hum by keeping the speaker wires at least 18 inches away from other electrical wires and cables. When
possible, always cross speaker wires with other cable at a 90-degree angle, and avoid running speaker cable in parallel with any
electrical wiring.
When connecting a speaker, it is very important to maintain the correct polarity. To do this, be sure that the wire attached to the
red (+/positive) terminal on the speaker connects to the red (+/positive) terminal on the other component (usually the amplier).
Similarly, the black (-/negative) terminal on the speaker must connect to the respective black (-/negative) terminal on the other
component (usually the amplier).
Mounting the Speaker (if you are unsure, consult a professional contractor)
Carefully detach the “Paint Shield” section from the cardboard “Hole Cutout Template” at the perforated edge. Next, position the
Hole Cutout Template where you have chosen to mount the speaker and trace along the inside edge.
Make your cut along this line. HTD recommends using a drywall saw to cut the hole. A rotary tool or utility knife will also work but
may be more difcult to control for beginners. Try to keep the cuts neat and follow the template closely; however the frame will
overlap the hole slightly to help hide the rough edges. Pull the speaker wires into position and leave at least two feet of extra wire
at the opening.
Remove the grille from the frame by pressing the dog-ear (swing arm) mounting screws from the back of the speaker into the
grille. Attach the speaker wires to the speaker terminals. Turn all of the dog-ears (swing arms) inward and with the grille removed,
insert the speaker into the mounting hole directly against the insulation. Use a Phillips head screwdriver to turn the screws slowly
clockwise. The quick-turn mounting system and frame will clamp around the drywall/mounting surface to hold the speaker securely
in place. Be careful not to over-tighten, as this may damage the speaker.
Before replacing the grille:
1. Position the swivel tweeter so that it points toward your primary listening position.
2. Listen to the speaker with the +/- tweeter switch in each position to determine what sounds best to you. The “0” position will
usually be best for most situations.
Painting/Installing the Grille
Both the press-t aluminum grille and magnetic steel grille, as well as the polymer frame, can be painted to match any decor. If you
choose to paint them, do so before attaching the grille to the speaker. Please be sure to remove the acoustically transparent cloth
insert prior to painting.
A paint shield has been included (attached to the “Hole Cutout Template”) to assist with the painting process. Simply detach it from
the included template, then place a staple at all locations indicated. These staples will align with the magnets embedded in the
frame, and hold the paint shield in place during painting. The paint shield should be centered on the speaker, covering the internal
area while leaving the bezel of the speaker uncovered.