Hyside Pro 20.0 User manual

1
HYSIDE OWNER’S MANUAL
Congratulations on the purchase of your new HYSIDE!
For over 30 years, HYSIDE has been synonymous with the most durable and longest lasting inatables on the
planet. Through the industry’s most durable fabric and the use of the newest technologies, we’ve designed these
boats to be the workhorses for the commercial outtting industry. We’re certain that you’ll enjoy this boat as a
worry free source of FUN for years.
In this manual, you’ll nd a comprehensive assembly of tips and instructions on using and caring for your new
inatable.
ANYWHERE YOU WANT TO GO, GET THERE WITH HYSIDE!
This is an owner/operator manual for all of HYSIDE’s inatable line up.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS
OVERVIEW ON PAGE 3
•Boat Anatomy
•Valves
•Thwarts
•Floors
PREVENTATIVE CARE AND MAINTENANCE ON PAGE 7
•Inating/Deating your HYSIDE
•Cleaning Your HYSIDE
•Protecting Your HYSIDE
•Storing Your HYSIDE
•Transporting Your HYSIDE
•Restoring Your HYSIDE
•Tips for Outtters
REPAIR ON PAGE 14
•Locating a Leak
•Removing an Old Patch
•Loose Edges
•Basic Repair/Glue Instructions & Tips
•Replacement Parts
TROUBLE SHOOTING ON PAGE 18
WARRANTY INFORMATION ON PAGE 19

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OVERVIEW
BOAT ANATOMY
The goal of this section is to give you a simple explanation of the parts of your boat and how they function and
operate. Getting to know your boat inside and out is the rst step to caring for your inatable. See below for a
brief list of terms and parts on your HYSIDE:
Standard Floor Raft
Includes all of the features the self-bailing raft has, with the exception of the oor type and xed thwarts.
Self-Bailing Raft
HINGE AND PIN
THWARTS
FIXED
THWARTS
HYPALON COATED
NYLON FABRIC
FULL LENGTH URETHANE
BOTTOM CHAFERS
TRIPLE BONDED
SEAMS
LEAFIELD
INFLATION VALVES (C7)
LEAFIELD PRESSURE
RELEASE VALVE (A6)
D-RINGS I-BEAMHANDLES
SELF BAILING
FLOOR
NON-SELF BAILING
FLOOR
KICK/ROCKER STRAIGHT TUBE/FLAT AREA

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VALVES
VALVE TYPES
Your boat consists of multiple air chambers, each with its own valve. There are two types of valves we are currently using:
The ination valve (Leaeld C7) and the Pressure Release Valve (Leaeld A6). They are very durable and simple to use.
The Ination Valve (Leaeld C7)
The inside center of the valve has a spring loaded stem with a at plunger on
the bottom. When inating, make sure the spring isn’t held open. You can do
this by pushing the spring down and to the left (counterclockwise). This will
make sure the valve is closed, so air can only pass through into the chamber.
In order to deate, you will need to push the stem down and twist it to the right.
This will hold the spring in the open position to allow the boat to fully deate.
Make sure to always keep the valve cap on, when not inating/deating.
This will protect the stem and keep debris out. There are replacement caps
available should you lose any.
The Pressure Release Valve (Leaeld A6)
Unlike the round design of the tubes, which distribute increases in pressure
evenly, the oor’s mattress design is smaller and less forgiving with more
drastic pressure changes.
We equip our oors with PRV’s designed to release at 2.0 PSI.
NOTE: The old leaeld pressure release valves were color coded and blue
indicated a 2.0 PSI valve. The newer valves have the PSI engraved in the valve
itself. So if you can’t determine the color dot, it is a good indication that it is a
very old valve and needs to be replaced.
VALVE INSTALLATION & CLEANING
Valves come pre-installed on your boat, direct from the factory. If for some reason you have to remove/re-install
the valve, here’s a detailed instruction. Both the C7 and A6 Leaeld valves are very similar to install. Both have
a female part inside the boat, then an outside washer and male part.
Ination Valve (Leaeld C7)
Push the male/threaded part of the valve through the valve hole opening in the oor or tube. Grasp the valve base rmly
and thread the valve together making sure that the boat fabric does not twist as the valve is tightened. Hand tighten the
valve, then nish tightening with the provided valve wrench after the tube is inated to operating pressure. Removing the
valve would be the exact opposite, just remember that the female base in the boat is free oating!
Cleaning your Ination Valve
The most common causes of leaks are from valves. If your valves are not airtight, dirt and grit can work its way into your
valve, causing an improper seal (leak) and cleaning the valve will usually solve the problem. First, deate the tube of the
valve needing to be cleaned. Next, quickly depress the spring up and down a few times and use a pump to blow bursts
of air into the valve while it’s in the open position, to help dislodge any debris that might be holding the spring open. The
valve seal at the bottom of the valve stem should be free of debris, as this creates the seal. Once done, reinate the tube
and test. If still leaking, remove the valve for a more thorough cleaning. (See Valve Installation)
ACC-343
ACC-343F
ACC-307

5
THWART INSTALLATION
We’ve made it very simple to install and remove your thwarts. Like a door
hinge, the two hinged knuckles connect with a pin. Removing is simple, just
remove the pin! You might need pliers to grab the pin when removing.
Older model HYSIDEs were outtted with lace-in thwart attachments. We still
stock lace-in thwart attachments as an option, as well as xed attachments.
The knuckles can also be installed at various points in your boat to allow for
multiple setups, depending on your use! See “gluing instruction” on how to
install knuckles.
STEP 1 STEP 2 STEP 3
ACC-324
ACC-325
Pressure Release Valve (PRV-Leaeld A6)
The PRV’s base inside the oor is free-oating. To install, work the base into position so that the collar of the base
protrudes through the opening in the oor. Line up the valve with the hole in the oor. Insert the male/threaded
part of the valve into the hole of the oor.
Cleaning your Pressure Release Valve (PRV, A6)
Your pressure release valve is a great little insurance policy for your oor. Designed to release pressure at 2.0PSI,
if working properly the PRV will help prevent costly damage to your oor from drastic pressure changes or over-
ination. But the thing is, it has to be working properly!
Never plug a PRV if it is leaking! Either clean or replace the valve.
Because of the location in the boat, the PRV will usually need more attention and cleaning than the other valves.
Sand and grit can cause the PRV to function improperly, either leaking air or not releasing at the appropriate
pressure like it’s designed to do. To clean your PRV, simply unscrew the valve with your star-shaped end of your
valve wrench. Next wash the valve in warm, soapy water, pressing the spring up and down as you wash and rinse.
This should dislodge anything that might be hindering the spring from operation properly. Next, reinstall the
valve by hand tightening. Make sure the valve is aligned around the oor fabric. Once aligned and hand tight,
tighten with your valve wrench. Next, you’ll want to reinate your oor and test for leaks (spray with soapy water
and watch for air bubbles). NOTE: If the valve is leaking from the perimeter of the valve, it is either not aligned
properly or it’s not tight enough. Unscrew, align and retighten to be sure. If the valve is leaking from the inside/
spring area of the valve, there’s still something holding the spring open, requiring a more thorough cleaning.
Repeat steps above, reinstall and retest.
Grasp the valve base rmly and thread the lock ring onto the valve making sure that the oor fabric doesn’t twist
as the valve is tightened. Hand tighten, snug with the valve wrench, then nish tightening with the wrench after
the tube is inated to operating pressure. Removing the valve would be the exact opposite, just remember that
the female base in the boat is free oating!
(See TROUBLE SHOOTING for tips on leaky valves and maintaining valves).

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INFLATABLE FLOOR ATTACHMENT TYPES
Inatable oors are either glued in or laced-in with webbing, through
grommets, when attached to the main tubes. We transitioned to the
“attached” self-bailing oor back in 2000 for all stock models, due to ease
of use and maintenance for the customer, however, we still produce
Lace-in oors, especially for international clients who need to break down
the boats for transport. If you need instructions on lacing-in an inatable
oor, please see our website’s Tips and Trips section at www.hyside.com.
FLOOR VALVES
All HYSIDE inatable oors are equipped with a Leaeld A6 Pressure
Release Valve (PRV). This PRV is an added insurance policy against over
ination. The PRV we place in our oors is built to release at 2.0 PSI
(blue dot). Please note that there are other PRV’s with higher pressure
releases! This can void your warranty if damage is caused to the oor
from using a PRV with higher PSI than recommended.
FLOORS
FLOOR TYPES – SELF BAILING VS. NON SELF BAILING
The main dierence between a standard and self bailing oor is that standard (non self-bailing) oors are sealed
to the outer tubes, whereas the self-bailing oor is inated and is either laced in or glued in, with holes installed
around the perimeter, allowing the water to exit. The oor of a self bailing raft is a wide at inated chamber.
When inated, the oor is about 5 inches thick, so the top surface of the oor is above the surface of the water.
When water splashes into the raft, it ows across the oor, down over the edge of the oor, and out through the
lacing.
Features of a NON Self-Bailing oor:
•If running Class I or II whitewater the inside of the boat/oor boat should stay dryer
•Requires a bucket to bail water
•When water enters, the boat becomes heavier and less maneuverable
•Chances of getting stuck on a rock is more because they are heavier with water in the boat
•Costs less than Self-Bailing oors
Most of our raft line-up nowadays is self-bailing. Our entire Kayak line is self-bailing, as well as our Outtter
and Outtter Pro Raft series. Running extreme whitewater is safer and easier with a self-bailing oor and other
benets include a dry oor for passengers as well as a more rm oor to stand on or sh from.
Features of a Self-Bailing oor:
•Does not require buckets or pumps to remove water
•Much more maneuverable since any water splashing in quickly exits (in a few seconds)
•Less likely of getting stuck on a rock because the boat remains lighter
•Makes a nice mattress when ipped over
•More expensive than ‘Standard’ non-bailing oors

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PREVENTIVE CARE
AND MAINTENANCE
Your HYSIDE inatable was designed to withstand the everyday abuse from Commercial Outtters.
We’ve designed our boats to be very dependable and very simple to use and operate, even in the toughest
conditions. Here are some in-depth tips and processes to keep your HYSIDE running in tip top shape for DECADES,
like many of our happy customers have reported.
INFLATING YOUR HYSIDE
Your boat consists of multiple air chambers. When inating your raft or boat, ll each air chamber in a clockwise
pattern around the boat, just until the craft takes shape. Then work your way back around the boat lling the
chambers to the pressure level indicated for that particular boat.
Each chamber has a cone shaped bae that separates it from the others. Maximizing pressure on a single bae
can easily damage it; therefore equal amounts of pressure should be applied to each chamber until you reach
maximum pressure.
To inate your boat, a hand, foot or electric pump can be used. A low pressure pump (designed specically for
inatables) is best, as we recommend a max pressure of 2.0 psi in the oor (Self-bailing models only) and 3.0 psi
in the tubes. If the oor of the boat is inatable, add air until the pressure relief valve releases a small amount of
air. Use caution when inating the oor! The pressure release valve can only release air so fast,
so if the air ow is faster than the release of pressure, you could cause damage.
Also consider super heated surfaces, like asphalt and sand. They have temperatures that far exceed the air temp
and can cause the boat pressure to exceed recommended pressure within minutes.
Most boats that come in for oor repair typically have a plugged or non working PRV, or the user was forcing the
air in faster than it could release, after it was full.
For info on cleaning your PRV see on page 5
A rule of thumb for gauging the proper pressure for the tubes is to push down with your thumb at the center of
the tube. If you can deect about a half an inch from the top plane of the tube, it will be close to 3.0 psi.
Don’t overll. A properly inated boat should have just a bit of give.
Be aware that air temperature causes changes in the air pressure in the inatable chambers. Many boaters ll
their boats in the morning when the air is cool, but as the temperature increases over the course of the day, the
air in the tubes expands, increasing the pressure. If a tube or chamber becomes too pressurized, it can explode
if struck by a sharp object. You may have to let some air out at dierent points throughout the day if you operate
your inatable in the hot sun.
19” DOUBLE ACTION PUMP
ACC-602
BIG RED ELECTRIC PUMP
ACC-600
BRAVO 2 - FOOT PUMP
ACC-608
RULE 12V ELECTRIC PUMP
ACC-611

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DEFLATING YOUR HYSIDE
The preferred way to deate your inatable is by deating all main chambers simultaneously, as this will help
avoid stress on any one bae (get a friend to help). You can then move on to deating the thwarts and oor.
To set the valves for deation, simply push the valve stem in approximately 3/8” and turn it about ½ turn until it
locks in the open position. You can use the bottom side of a pump to suck the remaining air out of the chambers.
CLEANING YOUR HYSIDE
Keeping your inatable clean, especially prior to storage, will help prolong the life of your craft!
Sand and gravel can cause abrasion and plug air valves. If left to soak into an inatable boat, salt water can cause
the material to deteriorate.
You can use soap and water to clean your boat. For grimy messes, there are inatable cleaners on the market
that clean the surface and won’t harm it. Hypalon is very resistant to most chemicals, so the worst a heavy duty
cleaner can usually do is bleach the pigment, which doesn’t aect the Hypalon.
Use a largescrub padwith handle and work in four foot sections. Rinse the boat o with a power washer then spray
the cleaner on and wait ve minutes. Using a circular motion, scrub the area and then fully rinse immediately. The
boat will appear to be faded, but a coat of 303 Protectant will bring back the shine.
PROTECTING YOUR HYSIDE
We recommend 303 Protectant for your HYSIDE. Like sunscreen for your
boat, it protects against UV rays and it seems to work as a coating that doesn’t
allow dirt to adhere as much as if it weren’t there.
Originally intended by American Propeller Co to protect rubber and vinyl
airplane parts from high altitude UV, it is ideally suited for inatable protection.
Given that Hypalon is used to coat high power wires and reservoirs, it has
incredible UV resistance. We have found that 303 helps reduce pigment fading,
leaves a layer that is easier to clean o dirt and prolongs the life of the boat.
It is suggested that you apply 303 prior to storing your boats for the winter. Besides the fact that the boats will be
ready for use in the Spring and Summer, it can soften the areas that cause fold marks in some fabrics.
303 reacts to water, so polish until dry after applying to reduce the slippery eect.
Number of applications per year can vary, so to determine if it’s time for another application, rub some 303 on the
boat the size of a baseball. If it brings back the color to a noticeable degree, then it’s time for another application.
STORING YOUR HYSIDE
Removing Water
Preventing moisture during storage will greatly increase the lifespan of your boat.
Over time, moisture inside the tubes can break down the glue joints, so it needs to be removed promptly. The
obvious signs of trapped moisture are hearing it sloshing around or rubbing the two sides of a deated tube
together and if it feels slippery/slimey inside, you probably have old moisture inside (part of a routine inspection).
Removing the valve to the chamber is the rst step in cleaning it out. Use a pulley or turn the boat to the required
position and tie it o. The goal is to position the boat where you can get excess water to pool, then use ashop
vacwith a hose outside in the sunlight. Next, tape a ½ inch piece of PVC hose to the end of the hose and stick it
in the chamber, use this to remove all remaining pooled water. For the remaining moisture in the tubes, turn the
ACC-878
ACC-875

9
boat upside down and place the boat in the sun (black bottom heats in sun)
Using the same PVC pipe, reverse the ow of air with the vacuum and blow air into the oor. The hot air will
circulate and evaporate it until it is completely dry. 
ROLLING YOUR HYSIDE
Rolling your boat is very simple.
1. Lay the boat out at and deated, making sure to remove any straps or equipment.
2. Start your fold length-wise and fold inward towards the middle.
3. Depending on the size of your boat and how tight you want to roll for storage (packing it for a trip or just
storing in a closet for winter), will determine whether to fold the boat in thirds, or just in half.
4. Once you’ve folded the boat length-wise towards the center, start rolling at the end opposite of the oor valves
(this will allow air to continue to escape as you roll) and roll until it’s a nice little rubber burrito.
5. Cam strap from there and you’re done!
Short Term Storage
Wipe down, partially deate (1 PSI) and cover with tarp. If this is not possible, completely deate the boat and
be sure it is dry and clean before rolling and storing. If you plan to store your inatable boat on a trailer, be sure
there are no bends or kinks in the boat.
Long Term Storage
After the season, rinse o any dirt/grime and allow the boat to FULLY air dry.
Moisture can get caught in the tubes and oor, so make sure to let it air dry completely!
Store your boat dry, clean and preferable 303’d. Store the boat in a cool, dry place out of sunlight. Ideally, storing
the boat partially inated is the best, but if space is not an option, you can denitely roll it up as tight as needed.
Do not store directly on concrete! Moisture and mold will transfer onto the boat and cause permanent
staining. Put a pallet down or something in between to reduce moisture transfer. Store your inatable o the
ground, out of reach of rodents, as they have a fondness for chewing holes and nesting in inatable material.

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TRANSPORTING YOUR HYSIDE
The bonus with our Hypalon material is that it’s easier to roll than other boat fabrics, it’s lighter and is less likely
to get damaged in transport. That said, there are still some precautions to take when transporting your boat.
Standard Precautions
Because punctures are the main concern with inatable boats, it is important to protect it from sharp objects.
Use care when transporting knives, shing hooks, and other objects that could puncture the skin of the inatable
boat. Watch for sharp metal or branches when navigating the waters, as well as avoid dragging the boat over
rocks and debris when landing on a beach.
Even dull objects such as oars, ropes, or coolers can cause abrasion and deterioration of the coating material if
allowed to rub for an extended period of time.
Make sure all valve caps are screwed on prior to rolling. Roll the boat as tight as possible, cam strap it secure and
package in the smallest box possible (if shipping). This will avoid damage during transit and will save on freight if
you are shipping it. If too big for a box, wrap the boat in a tarp, canvas, or HYSIDE Boat bag. Be sure not to load
other equipment on top of the boat that could potentially wear on your boat.
Moving the boats has been known to cause more damage than usage on the river unless closely monitored.
Using the handles as tie-downs, abrasive ropes rubbing on the tubes, and the biggest culprit of all, tossing the
boats to the ground!
RESTORING YOUR HYSIDE
As time goes on and your boat has been beaten by the sun and the various adventures you’ve put it through, here
are some tips to bring your HYSIDE back to life:
Worn Areas
Areas that have had abrasion to the point that fabric is showing can be painted with Gaco Hypalon paint. Don’t
use this technique to attempt to stop air leaks (it won’t work). This is a remedy for random scratches. Areas
where there is constant wear, a pad or urethane coating should be applied. In some situations you may be able
to stop the cause if it originated from improper trailering or dragging of the boats. To apply the paint, rst clean
the surface with MEK using a cloth. Then build-up thin layers of paint using the same process explained in gluing:
short bristle paint brush and multiple thin coats.
Removing Loose Threads
The aging of a boat will always produce frayed ends from the nylon base cloth. You can cut the ends o with
scissors and then nish it o by waving a heat gun over the clipped area. This step not only removes them from
sight, but reduces the chances of future fraying.
If the seam tape, handle or D-ring bases are heavily worn, you can clip the frayed edges and then use aDremel
toolto bevel the edges and then ash it with a heat gun. To nish it o, use someGaco paintto touch up the area,
then put303 Protectanton it to bring back the shine.