JetLegend T-45 Goshawk User manual

JetLegend T-45 Goshawk
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Foreword
Thank you very much for choosing JetLegend jet! If you are looking for a Jet with quality flying at
fair price, you’ve made the right choice. Hope you enjoy yourself in the amazing flying world that
JetLegend jets bringing to!
Before flying, your jet must be put together. A nice or poor building job could make your flight
different. This manual gives a perfect building guidance, to make your building procedure easier.
Herewith JetLegend team gives their special thanks to Mr. Curtis Marrikow, thanks him for his
perfect job on this wonderful manual!
JetLegend Team
January 5
th
, 2007
JetLegend T-45 Goshawk Assembly Manual
Written by Curtis Mattikow

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Table of Content
INTRODUCTION ............................................................................................................................. 3
DISCLAIMER................................................................................................................................... 3
BEFORE YOU BEGIN ..................................................................................................................... 4
TOOLS AND ADHESIVES .............................................................................................................. 4
PNEUMATIC AND FUEL SYSTEMS .............................................................................................. 4
RADIO INSTALLATION................................................................................................................... 4
ENGINE INSTALLATION ................................................................................................................ 5
NOSEGEAR .................................................................................................................................... 5
PNEUMATIC SYSTEMS ................................................................................................................. 7
WINGS............................................................................................................................................. 9
FLAPS ............................................................................................................................................. 9
AILERONS..................................................................................................................................... 10
MAIN LANDING GEAR ................................................................................................................. 11
AILERON AND FLAP SERVOS .................................................................................................... 13
DETAILS........................................................................................................................................ 15
STAB MECHANISM ...................................................................................................................... 18
RUDDER ....................................................................................................................................... 19
FUEL TANK ................................................................................................................................... 19
ASSEMBLING THE WING TO THE FUSELAGE.......................................................................... 20
DECALS ........................................................................................................................................ 21
ENGINE AND RADIO INSTALLATION ......................................................................................... 21
BALANCE AND CONTROL THROWS ......................................................................................... 23
RANGE CHECK AND FINAL PREPARATIONS ........................................................................... 23

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INTRODUCTION
The JetLegend T-45 is the most
scale ARF model made today of the British
Aerospace/Boeing Hawk/Goshawk series of
advanced jet trainers. It is the only model
that includes all the unique scale features of
the United States Navy T-45 Goshawk
version, such as the tailhook, that give the
model a lot of military "charachter" not found
on the very common "Red Arrows" Hawks
seen so often at the model field. There is no
real "construction" involved; all that really
needs to be done is install the various fuel,
control, and landing gear systems. The
plane is completely built, and five minutes
after opening the box, you can have the
wings, stabs, and rudders plugged in or
bolted on and looking like an aircraft, just to
whet your appetite and get inspired, and it
gives you an opportunity to check for proper
fit of all components, and inspect them for
flaws or missing glue joints before you begin.
The kit is almost entirely complete
except for adhesives, electronics, engine,
and a few small bits like servo mounting
screws for the servo doors and fuel tubing for
the tank. All of the hardware is top quality,
there is no need for trips to the hobby store to
replace cheap plastic clevises and horns, the
equipment provided in the kit is more than
adequate.
Some useful tools for assembly will
be a screw gun for drilling holes and a dremel
tool with a 90 degree attachment, and some
high quality screwdrivers. Not much else is
needed. Two allen wrenches are provided
with the kit that fit all the bolts.
As far as adhesives go, Loctite Hysol is the
strongest and best epoxy for installing the
components, but if you cannot get any, 30
minute epoxy will do. Avoid five minute
epoxy, it is not nearly as strong as the 30
minute kind, and it gives you much more time
to properly align things before it sets.
DISCLAIMER
THIS IS NOT A TOY. This is a
high-performance miniature aircraft, capable
of high speeds and damage to life, limb, and
property. The manufacturer and its
distributors cannot control how you assemble
this model, what equipment you use to fit it
out, or how you fly it, and can assume no
liability whatsoever for any damages that
may occur when you fly your aircraft. By
assembling this model, you are agreeing to
indemnify and hold blameless the
manufacturer and/or his agents from any and
all torts and liability associated with the use of
this product. Please inspect all parts before
beginning assembly. If any parts appear to
be suspect, contact your dealer or the
manufacturer for repair or replacement
BEFORE you begin. Once you have
assembled the aircraft, you are the pilot in
command and assume any and all
responsibility for the use of the model and
any damages that might occur by flying or
attempting to fly this aircraft.
R/C model jets require a high level of skill in
both their assembly and their flying. If you do
not feel confident in either your building or
flying skills, PLEASE seek assistance from
more experienced modelers. It is a wise idea,
no matter what level of skills you possess, to
have a second experienced modeler go over
your installation after assembly, a second set
of eyes may spot a problem you missed. If
you have not flown a model like this before, it
is HIGHLY recommended that you get an
experienced turbine pilot to do your maiden
flight. Very often, the first few seconds of a
maiden flight are critical until the aircraft is
trimmed out, and having an experienced pilot
at the controls can make the difference
between a wrecked aircraft and once that
enjoys many hundreds of flights. Be sure to
select a suitable field for flying...take the time
to find a large paved runway if at all possible,
especially for test flights, until you feel
comfortable getting the aircraft in and out of
smaller grass fields.

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BEFORE YOU BEGIN
Keep this in mind as you proceed:
Look at EVERY assembly step you finish,
and ask yourself:
"Is this going to crash my airplane?"
A chain is only as strong as its weakest link,
and this is a high-performance aircraft that
will be very intolerant of sloppy assembly
techniques. Even the smallest component is
important and can cause the loss of your
airplane, so take the time to do things right.
Or REdo them if they are wrong. Careful work
will result in a long-lasting plane that gives
you years of pleasure, one loose component
could result in the complete loss of the
aircraft and all the components inside it, and
someone can even get hurt. So pause every
once in a while when building it and
double-check your workmanship.
TOOLS AND ADHESIVES
Some useful tools for assembly will
be a screw gun for drilling holes and a dremel
tool with a 90 degree attachment, and some
high quality screwdrivers. Not much else is
needed. Two allen wrenches are provided
with the kit that fit all the bolts.
As far as adhesives go, Loctite Hysol is the
strongest and best epoxy for installing the
components, but if you cannot get any, 30
minute epoxy will do. Avoid five minute
epoxy, it is not nearly as strong as the 30
minute kind, and it gives you much more time
to properly align things before it sets.
PNEUMATIC AND FUEL SYSTEMS
All tubing joints must be cut off very square to
avoid leaks. Do not clip them with scissors or
cutters or you will get an angled, leak-prone
end on the tubing. Use a very new razor and
cut all joints dead straight for best results.
When you are done, your air systems should
hold air overnight at the very least...for
months is even better. Any leaks are
unacceptable, it will be a matter of time
before you are damaging your aircraft with a
gear-up, or even worse, a one- or two- gear
landing, so take your time and track down
any leaks, no matter how slight, before flying.
RADIO INSTALLATION
There are enormous variations in
how you can set up your radio trays. You
may or may not use dual power switches, a
power distribution box for servos, battery
backers, smoke pumps, etc., according to
your personal tastes. If you like, you can cut a
new blank tray if the factory-made cutouts do
not suit your installation. What is shown here
is just some basic guidelines of how some of
the necessary systems are installed, but
where exactly you want to install them is up
to you. Just make sure all components are
well-secured with tie-wraps or Velcro, and
that the turbine ECU and fuel pump are kept
well away from the receiver so as not to get
any radio interference.
There are great variations in servo
choices and how the servos are mounted.
Some may come with flat mounts, feel free to
use them. Whatever way you mount your
servos, be sure to mount them SECURELY.
Any play may result in flutter and the loss of
your aircraft. The aluminum mounts and
plywood blocks provided in the kit can be
modified accordingly to suit the servos you
chose. Do not use rubber servo grommets,
they are to dampen the vibration of a glow
engine, turbine engines produce no vibration,
so all the grommets will do is allow the servo
to move and lead to potential flutter. Digital
servos are highly recommended on all flight
controls, as are servos with metal gears.
Plastic gears can chip a tooth if the control
surface is bumped while assembling the
aircraft at the field, and it's too easy for this
situation to go unnoticed until the servo fails
in the air. Metal servo arms are also good
insurance against flutter. The linkages and
fiberglass control horns provided in the kit are
extremely strong, there is no need to replace
them with aftermarket ones. Be sure to use
all the provided retention hardware, including
the tiny circlips. They are all there for a
reason. The horns on your servos and the
holes in the fiberglass control horns provided
in the kit may need to be drilled out to
accommodate the clevis pins. It's easier to
do this to all of the horns before any
assembly. Do this carefully, and discard
anything with an oversized hole, as any slop
here is unacceptable.
It is highly recommended that all
servos be "burned in" for an hour or so before
installation, using a servo driver to excercise

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the servo. Most failures of brand-new
electronics will occur during the first hour of
operation. Better to find out now than later.
You will need two 36" extensions,
two 12", and four 24" ones. Be sure to use
only high quality heavy duty extensions,
especially if you are using digital servos, to
handle the electrical loads. Tape all
connections for safety, and make sure all
leads are secured against the fuselage side
so they do not contact the hot tailpipe and
melt. You can make up some plywood
blocks like you did for the nosegear cables
and secure the extension leads with tie wraps.
Depending on what receiver you use, you
may run out of channels to run all the
surfaces. You may use y-harnesses or JR
Matchbox-type devices to accommodate. If
any surfaces are reversed, use a reversed
servo or a matchbox...reversing Y-harnesses
tend to lose their trim centers over time and
with weather changes, leading to constant
re-trimming of the aircraft.
The control surface hinges come
from the factory unglued. It is absolutely
essential that you remove and glue each and
every one into place. Coat the center of each
hinge with petroleum jelly to keep it from
getting bound up with glue. Apply plenty of
epoxy to one side of the hinge, and plenty of
epoxy into the matching hole in the surface,
install the hinge, then move the free part of
the hinge perpendicular to the surface for
proper alignment while drying. Do only one
side of the hinging at a time, do not attempt to
glue the hinges into both surfaces
simultaneously. If you are painting your
model, you may wish to leave the hinges
unglued so the surfaces can be removed for
painting. Just don't forget to glue them
AFTER painting!
ENGINE INSTALLATION
The T-45 was designed to fly with
54mm class engines from 12 to 18 pounds of
thrust. It was NOT designed for larger
engines 66 class engines such as the Jetcat
P-80. You may be able to get one to fit, but
the weight and fuel consumption are big
issues. If you feel you need unlimited vertical
performance, try one of the very high
performance 54 class engines such as the
Wren Super Sport, and pay attention to
weight as you build, and you should be quite
satisfied.
Each engine has different dimensions and
accessories. You may have to shim or cut
the engine mounts to accommodate your
particular engine. It is vital that the engine be
perfectly centered in the tailpipe, and that the
tailcone of engine be spaced properly from
the mouth of the pipe. Location of the fuel
pump, ECU, and optional fuel and gas
solenoids is up to you, you can mount them
with tiewraps to the engine mount formers, to
the radio tray, or both. A bubbleless
header tank such as the BVM Ultimate Air
Trap is can be used for consistent fuel
delivery, but a simple header tank with a
geometrically centered pickup seems to give
very trouble-free performance to many
people. A high quality fuel filter is absolutely
mandatory. If one was not provided with your
engine, get one.
NOSEGEAR
1 Remove the two forward equipment trays.
You may paint them if you like. It's a good
idea to do so in case of any accidental fuel
spillage. Put the painted trays aside for the
moment. Put the screws back in the fuse to
keep them from getting lost.
2 Add two lengths of air tubing about 12
inches long to the nose gear assembly.

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3 Invert the fuselage and place the nosegear
onto its mounts. check the location and
alignment carefully and mark for four
mounting screws.
4 Drill four holes for the mounting screws.
5 Install the nosegear using the four supplied
screws. Be sure to slide the rear stabilizing
strut inside the fuselage before screwing
down the landing gear.
6 Bolt the rear stabilizing strut for the
nosegear to the bulkhead as shown.
7 Make up a nosegear steering rod as shown.
The adjustable end goes towards the servo.
A piece of heat shrink tubing keeps the clevis
from getting hung up on the edges of the
guide hole in the former.
8 Install a standard-sized metal geared servo
for nosegear steering and link it to the
nosegear.

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PNEUMATIC SYSTEMS
9 Install the two air tanks.
9A. Install the larger air tank for the gear as
shown using silicone.
9B. Install the shorter tank for the brakes as
shown to the fuselage wall above the intakes.
Alternatively, you may use only the larger
tank, along with a single filling port. You
should be able to get four or more retract
cycles, along with some braking left over,
from the single large tank. Remember, you
really only need ONE cycle per flight! It's up
to you whether you want one tank or two.
Two tanks and completely separate air
systems for brakes and retracts make some
people feel more comfortable.
10 Use CA to assemble the two laser cut air
valve mounts.
11 Install the air valves to their mounts, add a
ball link to each valve. The ball links are not
mandatory, but they help reduce any side
loading on the valves, which cause leakage.
12 Install two quality miniservos and the two
air valves. Where exactly you want them on
the tray is up to you. It depends on what
other equipment you are using.

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13 It is very important for the valves to be
exactly in line with the servo horns. Any side
loads or binding may cause air leaks.
14 Drill two holes and install the two provided
filler valves.
15 Install a short four inch piece of airline to
the center nipple of the gear valve and one to
the forward nipple of the brake valve as
shown.
16 Add a short three inch piece of air line to
each filler valve, and connect them to the air
valves with two y connectors.
17 Connect the two air tanks to the y
connectors with about a foot of tubing each.
You want to leave these a little long so the
tray can be removed from the fuse and put to
one side for service.
18 Connect the two nose gear air lines to the
two air valve nipples as shown. Either side
can be up or down.

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19 Add two three foot pieces of airline to the
two remaining nipples on the air valve and
run them back to the engine area. Do a third
one for the brakes, from the remaining free
nipple on the brake valve, tubing shown in
blue for clarity.
WINGS
20 Make marks on the top of the wing three
inches forward of the rear wing mount bolts.
These will be holes for your air and servo
lines from the wings.
21 Make corresponding marks on the bottom
of the fuselage to match.
22 Drill and cut one inch holes on these
marks for your airlines and servo leads on
both the wing top and fuse bottom. Smooth
the edges of the holes to keep them from
cutting the lines; you can add some split fuel
tubing to line the edges if you like.
FLAPS
23 There are six flap hinges. Two have horns.
All will need to be modified as shown above
in order to fit into the flaps without sticking out
the top of the surface. A small amount needs
to be taken off the bottom, note carefully
which end is the rear and which is the front,
only the rears need to be modified.

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24 There are three faint marks molded into
the bottom of the flaps. Highlight them with a
marker.
25 Cut and drill out the slots for the flap
hinges.
26 Rub a little Vaseline on the red leading
edges of the flaps to keep glue from sticking
them in place. Tape the flaps into position.
Use the hinges to mark the flap hinge slots on
the wing.
27 Cut slots in the wing for the flap hinges
and epoxy them into place. Note that hinge
with the horn goes on the inboard side by the
servo opening.
AILERONS
28 Remove the aileron hinges from the
ailerons and wing. Coat the centers of the
hinges with Vaseline to keep them from
sticking.
29 Glue the aileron hinges into the ailerons,
let the dry in the position shown to make sure
they are centered.
30 There are two faint marks molded into the
bottoms of the ailerons for the horns.
Highlight these marks and cut slots for the
horns.

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31 Glue a horn into each aileron.
32 Epoxy the aileron hinges into the wings.
Check for free movement before gluing.
Make the trailing edge of the aileron match
up with the trailing edge of the flap for best
appearance. If you do not get enough free
movement of the aileron, sand the hinge
overhang on the wing for additional
clearance as required.
MAIN LANDING GEAR
33 Put a screw into a three foot length of
airline. Tie a three foot piece of strong string
to it.
34 Securely tape two more three foot pieces
of airline to the other one. Make a smooth
transition with the tape so it can go easily
through the holes in the ribs.
35 Tie a large wheel collar or similar weight to
the end of the string.
36 Stand the wing up on the tip and dangle
the wheel collar through to the aileron servo
opening. You may need to tip the wing back
and forth to find all the holes.

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37 Use the string to pull the air lines through
and out the aileron servo bays.
38 leave about a foot of excess tubing at the
gear mount area and tape it down securely.
39 Dangle the wheel collar back into the wing
from the aileron servo bay to the holes you
made in the center section and pull the
airlines through and tape them to the top of
the wing.
40 Insert the main gear into the mount. Slide
the cylinder in first, then the retract can go in,
straight down. Align the gear carefully so as
not to hit the gear wells.
41 Mark the gear mounts holes and drill them
for the provided screws.
42 Attach the three air lines to the gear and
slide the gear into place. Be very sure not to
kink the lines and not trap them under the
retracts.

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43 Screw the gear down with the provided
screws.
44 Loosen the trunnion bolt, and align the
wheel and strut to face for and aft properly,
and re-tighten the bolt.
45 Secure the brake air line to the strut using
tiewraps, be sure not to squeeze the line, and
be sure there is enough slack so the line
does not get pulled as the strut compresses.
46 Cut off the excess air line at the wing
center section. Leave about six inches of
slack. Tie the three sets of lines together with
y-connectors.
AILERON AND FLAP SERVOS
47 Depending on what servos you use, you
will need to make up different mounts for
them. These miniservos use a combination of
the provided aluminum mounts and plywood
blocks.
48 Place the aileron servo covers and your
aileron servos in place and mark the
openings for the servo horns.

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49 stack the two covers together, colored
side to colored side, and drill and cut the
servo horn openings.
50 Mount the servos to the covers and add
an extension to reach the wing center section,
tape the connectors for security.
51 Remove appropriate material from the
servo well if required for clearance, be sure to
leave enough at the corners for the servo
cover mounting screws.
52 Use your wheel collar and string to bring
the aileron servo lead through the wing and
out the center section holes and secure the
servo cover with four screws.
53 Install the provided aileron linkages. Be
sure to use the provided circlips, or,
alternatively, heat shrink tubing, for security
on the clevises. Install the red fairings using
only silicone glue, in case you need to
remove them for service. The two flap servos
follow exactly the same installation
procedures, except extensions are not
needed for them, they can be standard sized
servos, and they get the white colored
fairings. You may need to reduce the height
of the horns on the flaps to get the fairings
over them.

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DETAILS
54 Apply the precut vinyl graphics to the
speedbrakes and epoxy the speedbrakes
into place. If you need, you can gently heat
them with a heat gun to make them fit
perfectly. Epoxy the speedbrakes into place.
55 Highlight the areas above the
speedbrakes where the strakes go. Plug in
the stabs and make sure the strakes do not
interfere with the downward movement of the
forward edges of the stabs. Move the strakes
forward if needed.
56 Drill some small holes in this area for
better glue bite and rough up the area with 80
grit sandpaper.
57 Drill holes in the bottoms of the strakes,
sand if needed for proper fit on the fuse, and
rough up the bottoms.
58 Cut a slot in the rear of the bottom strake
and epoxy the tailhook into it, use the plans to
get the proper angle.
59 Mark off the lines on the bottom of the fuse
for the tailhook fairing.
60 Rough up the area and drill holes for
better mechanical bite for the glue, do the
same to the bottom of the tailhook fairing.

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61 Glue both the strakes and the tailhook
assembly into place, check for alignment
carefully while drying.
62 Check the fit of the tail fairing, rough up
the area, and epoxy into place.
63 Sand the refueling probe to fit the nose at
the correct angle. Use the plans to check the
location and fit.
64 Install the refueling probe on the nose
using epoxy. Alternatively, you can use
sliding brass or aluminum tubes (not
provided) to make the probe removable, as it
is very subject to damage while transporting
the model to and from the field.
64A. Removable nose probe. Find two
aluminum tubes that will slide together snugly.
Cut them to approximate length. Drill into the
nose probe and securely epoxy the smaller
tube into the nose probe. When the tube is
dry, coat it with a little Vaseline to keep it from
sticking in the next step.
64B. Drill for the larger tube into the nose and
firmly epoxy the tube into the fuse, constantly
checking for the right angle using the nose
probe.

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64C. When dry, sand the tube to match the
contour of the nose.
64D. Clean the Vaseline off the nose probe
tube and install the nose probe. If the fit is
too loose, gently squeeze the tube a little bit.
It should be a mild friction fit.
65 Arrange the cockpit components as
shown and trim to fit. You will need to square
off some corners and such, a sanding bar
makes quick work of it.
66 Using the canopy as your guide, glue the
three cockpit components together.
67 Trim the edges of the cockpit just enough
so that the cockpit tub will fit inside the
cockpit opening in the fuselage. You want to
leave at least a 1/8" lip, but be able to put the
cockpit tub INSIDE the fuselage.
68 Paint and detail the cockpit tub as you like,
then epoxy or silicone the cockpit to the
bottom of the canopy frame. Check to make
sure it is centered properly and will fit inside
the fuselage opening.

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69. There are alternative ways you could
install the cockpit tub, but this technique
solves a handful of problems and looks neat
and clean. Try it.
STAB MECHANISM
70 Reach in through the tail and remove the
six bolts holding the stab mechanism in place.
Remove the mechanism and put the bolts
back into it for safekeeping.
70A. If you drill a couple of holes in the rear of
the fuse, it will make access to the upper stab
mechanism bolts much easier. The holes will
be covered by a molded fiberglass part.
71 Remove the three allen bolts holding the
left side frame of the stab mechanism.
72 Install a servo on the frame using the
provided screws. Do not use servo
grommets. Install the linkage on the servo
horn. A metal horn is suggested for this
application.
73 Reinstall the left side frame with the servo
and connect the linkage. Check for centering
and throw. Tighten all bolts, not just the ones
you removed, and use loctite to keep them
secure. Do not use loctite on any plastic
servo horns; the loctite can deteriorate the
plastic.

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74 Secure a 36" extension to the stab servo,
tape it for security. Reinstall the stab
mechanism into the fuselage using the six
bolts. Install the stabs and tighten them
securely using the four provided holes for the
wrench.
RUDDER
75 Locate a miniservo for the rudder on the
rudder servo door and mark and cut the
opening for the servo horn.
76 Install the servo on the door using suitable
mounts; a flat-mount servo is handy here.
77 Mark the rudder horn line, it should be in
line with the axis of the servo horn, not in line
with the direction of flight. Install the horn
and linkage the same way as the other
surfaces. Connect a 36" extension to the
rudder servo lead and install the rudder
assembly to the fuselage, tightening the
provided bolts securely through the holes
provided at the factory.
77A. Rudder linkage. Don't forget to tighten
the rudder mounting bolt on the fuselage.
FUEL TANK
78 Heat up the brass tubes with a torch; then
let them cool slowly for ten minutes. This will

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anneal them and make them soft enough to
bend without kinking. Assemble the tubes
with the stopper parts as shown. You need to
bend the fuel pick up line as far towards the
center of the tank as you can, otherwise the
clunk will not be able to reach much of the
fuel supply during inverted flight, as the
stopper opening in the tank is above the
center of the tank so it can clear the radio
tray.
79 Assemble the clunk to the stopper
assembly using tygon tubing. Use tie wraps
to keep the tubing secure. Blow out the
interior of the fiberglass fuel tank to remove
any debris and assemble the stopper and
clunk into the tank. Pressure test it
underwater for leaks.
80 Install the tank in front of the intakes using
silicone glue or velcro.
ASSEMBLING THE WING TO THE
FUSELAGE
81. Separate one side of the air leads and
servo leads through the wing. Tighten the
wing bolts securely. Reconnect the airlines
and servos inside the fuselage and connect
them to their respective leads coming from
the nose compartment. Check for correct
action of brakes and landing gear and
servos.
81A. Use plywood blocks and tie wraps to
secure the air lines and servo leads to the
fuse floor away from the hot engine.
81B. You can install a cardboard tube