Jtec Radiowave EXTRA 330L User manual

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40% EXTRA 330L & 300 PAK
Partially Assembled Kit
Manual
Please read through the entire manual first. It contains important instructions and warnings
concerning the finishing of the model.
WARRANTY AND PRODUCT DISCLAIMER
Radiowave Hobby Ind. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and
workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged
by use or modification. IN NO CASE SHALL RADIOWAVES' LIABILITY EXCEED THE
ORIGINAL COST OF THE PURCHASED KIT. Further Radiowave reserves the right to change
or modify this warranty without notice.
In that Radiowave has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no
liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the
final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all
resulting liability.
IF THE BUYERS ARE NOT PREPARED TO ACCEPT THE LIABILITY ASSOCIATED
WITH THE USE OF THIS PRODUCT, THEY ARE ADVISED TO RETURN THIS KIT
IMMEDIATELY IN NEW AND UNUSED CONDITION TO THE PLACE OF PURCHASE
AT THE BUYERS EXPENSE.

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INTRODUCTION
Congratulations and thank you for purchasing the Radiowave 40% Extra 330L PAK.
Flying the Extra 330L is a very rewarding experience, as it should be for such an aerobatic model.
With the aircraft control surfaces set for precision aerobatics, the aircraft will perform prescribed
aerobatic patterns as used in IMAC (International Miniature Aerobatic Club) events exceptionally
well. With control surfaces set for freestyle flying, the aircraft will perform today’s modern 3D
aerobatic maneuvers to really showcase the aircraft’s aerobatic potential.
PRECAUTIONS
Please finish the Extra 330L according to the instruction provided in this manual. We do not
recommend altering the model in any way that could result in an unsafe model. To prevent any
possibility of flutter, please make sure that there is no slop or backlash on the control linkages.
Install gap seals, especially on the ailerons. Use only high quality, high-torque servos (minimum
120 in-oz each) for all the control surfaces.
This manual provides very detailed assembly instructions for this model. Experienced modeler
may find these instructions much too detailed but we felt it is better to provide more detail than not
enough as to avoid mistakes that could be costly as well as time consuming.
Flying the Extra 330L is a very rewarding experience as it should be for such an aerobatic model.
With the aircraft control surfaces set for precision aerobatics, the aircraft will perform prescribed
aerobatic patterns as used in IMAC (International Miniature Aerobatic Club) events exceptionally
well. With control surfaces set for freestyle flying the aircraft will perform such 3D aerobatic
maneuvers as waterfalls, elevators, flat spins; knife-edge loops and pop ups that showcase its
aerobatic finesse.
The 40% Extra 330L is designed for engines from 140cc to 160cc. Unlimited vertical performance
is achievable with these engines.
PRECAUTIONS
Before starting the construction of the kit, please read through this instruction manual first.
All parts are bagged or assembled according to its function. For instance all the fuselage
parts you need for fuselage construction are bagged and labeled “fuselage” (except the
fuselage sides, which are readily identified). You may also wish to identify the parts by
checking the Parts List.
Please assemble and finish the Extra 330L according to the instructions and building sequence
provided. We do not recommend altering the kit by the addition of lightening holes or any other
modifications that could result in an unsafe model. When you are ready to fly the aircraft, to
prevent any possibility of flutter, please make sure that there is no slop or backlash on the control
linkages for all the control surfaces and install gap seals on the ailerons. As a further precaution,
the following minimum servo torque is recommended for the control surfaces; for each aileron, a
minimum servo torque of 120 in-oz is required and 3 servos must be used. For each elevator use
at least two servos with minimum of 80 in-oz of torque. For the rudder, to get good knife-edge
performance, 3 or 4 servos of at least 120 in-oz (preferably 160 in-oz) are used or two giant scale
servos of at least 260 in-oz per servo.

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A NOTE FOR SAFETY AND PRODUCT DISCLAIMER
Please fly the Extra 330L safely and in a professional manner. Radiowave Aviation accepts no risk
or liabilities when customers use our products for any circumstance, occurrence, happenings,
bodily harm or death to yourself or anyone. Please follow the Academy of Model Aeronautics
(AMA) flight safety rules and regulations. Assume the use of our products at your own risk.
ADDENDUM TO 40% EXTRA PAK
Before gluing on the root rib to the wing it will be necessary to cut the
trailing edge to make the proper fit to the fuselage.
To do this slide the wing on the wing tube till the trailing edge touches the
fuselage.
Take a long piece of balsa and lay it between the wing and the fuselage.
Draw a line on the balsa from the leading edge to the trailing edge along
the wing side.
This will be the taper that needs to be cut. Place the wings back in the
shuck; reverse the tapered piece so the wide end is now at the trailing
edge. Transfer the line to the shucks. This will be the amount of Material
you will need to remove from the root end of the wing for the proper fit to
the fuselage.
Before you cut make sure you have the right taper and the right fit. Use
the shuck as a test piece.
40% Extra 330L PAK Specifications
Wingspan 125 inches
Wing Area 2,775 sq. inches
Fuselage Length 115 inches (tip of spinner to end of rudder)

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Weight 37-39 lbs.
Engine 140cc to 160cc
Radio 4-channel, 9-14 servos
Note: Specifications subject to change without notice.
Features of the 40% Extra PAK (Partial Assembled Kit)
Fuselage:
Constructed with laser cut balsa, lite-ply and birch-ply parts
Plug-in Wing and Stab Panels
Built-in tunnel for tune pipes/mufflers
Fiberglass cowl and wheelpants
Aluminum landing gear, wing and stab tubes
Clear canopy
Wing:
Fully sheeted foam core wing panels
Ailerons are cut out double beveled for 3D aerobatics
Servo locations are precut with mounting hard points installed.
Vertical Fin:
Fully sheeted foam core.
Rudder cut and beveled for 3D with hard point installed.
Horizontal Stabilizer:
Fully sheeted foam core.
Elevators are cut and double beveled for 3d aerobatics
All hard points pre installed.
Servo locations are precut with mounting hard points installed

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PREPARATIONS
1. Required Accessories
There is no hardware provided with the kit since most modelers prefer to use their own brand of
hardware and accessories. Listed below is the hardware and accessories that you will need to
complete the model. In some cases, we have listed the brands that we have used and recommend,
although by no means are you required to use the brands mentioned.
Item Used: Number Recommended Brand For
8-32 Socket Head
Bolts 4
Du-Bro, Goldberg,
Great Planes, Sig Landing Gear
8-32 Self-Locking
Nuts 4
Du-Bro, Goldberg,
Great Planes, Sig Landing Gear
Landing Gear Axle 2
Du-Bro, Goldberg,
Great Planes Landing Gear
Wheel Collars 4
Du-Bro, Goldberg,
Great Planes Landing Gear
Wheel Pant Mounts 2 Sig, Sullilvan Landing Gear
4 ½ or 5 Inch Wheels 2 Sullivan, Du-Bro Landing Gear
6-32 x ¾ Socket
Head Bolts 6
Du-Bro, Goldberg,
Great Planes Hatch Mounts
¼ - 20 knobs 4 JTEC
Wing Attachment to Fuselage
Tail Gear and Wheel 1 Graph tech Tail Gear
4-40x 1” Turnbuckles 4 Dubro Elevator Control Rods
Hinges 44 Klett Air, Elev, Rudder
Control Horns 7 Rocket City Air, Elev, Rudder
Ball Links 8 Rocket City, DuBro Air, Elev, Rudder
4-40 x 2”
Titanium turnbuckles 6 Hangar 9 Ailerons Control Rods
Fuel Tank (50 ox) 1 Du-Bro Fuel Tank
5 inch Spinner 1
Tru-Turn, Revolution, Vortec
Spinner
6-32 1 Socket 4 Du-Bro, Goldberg Horizontal Stab
Head Bolts Great Planes Attachment to Fuselage
Clamp Loks J’TEC Servo wire guides
Pillow Paks J’TEC Servo, Battery
• Accessories that are required to mount the engine, radio, and servos are not included in the
list above.
• The Push Rods can also be made from carbon fiber tube with threaded 4-40 rods at each
end.

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Parts List
As we have made revisions some parts may no longer be
required to build this kit
Fuselage
Number Material Purpose Part ID.
12 3/8”sq x”balsa longerons
stringers & braces
2 1/8” lite ply Fuselage side, front FS1
2 1/8” lite ply Fuselage side, rear FS2
2 1/8” lite ply Aft. Fuselage doubler AFD
2 1/8” lite ply Tail wheel mounting plate TMP
1 balsa sheet Vertical fin mounting plate VMP
2 ¼” lite ply Engine box sides EBS
1 ¼” lite ply Former F1 F1
1 ¼” lite ply Former F2 F2
1 1/8” lite ply Former, bottom fuselage BF1
1 1/8” lite ply Former, bottom fuselage BF2
1 1/8” lite ply Former, bottom fuselage BF3
1 1/8” lite ply Former, bottom fuselage BF4
1 1/8” lite ply Tank Floor TF
1 3/32 x 3.25 balsa sheet fuselage bottom sheeting
1 1.5” fiberglass phonolic wing tube housing
1 7/8” fiberglass phonolic tail tube housing
1 ¼ “ ply large for firewall, cut and laminate together
Hatch:
5 3/8” sq. balsa Hatch stringers
2 3/8”x 3/8” balsa Hatch longerons
3 3/32”x 3.25 balsa Hatch sheeting
6 1/8” lite ply Hatch mounting tabs HMT
1 1/8” lite ply Hatch floor, front HFF
1 1/8” lite ply Hatch floor, rear HFR
1 1/8” lite ply Hatch former, front HF1
1 1/8” lite ply Hatch former, mid HF2
1 1/8” lite ply Hatch former, rear HF3
1 1/8” lite ply Canopy former CF1
1 balsa Dash panel

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Turtledeck:
1 sheeted foam turtledeck
1 1/8” lite ply Front turtledeck former TDF1
1 1/8” lite ply Rear turtledeck former TDF2
Wing:
1 Sheeted foam Right wing panel
1 Sheeted foam Left wing panel
4 lite ply alignment donuts
1 1.5”x 48” aluminum wing tube
Horizontal Stabilizer
1 Sheeted foam Right Stabilizer
1 Sheeted foam Left Stabilizer
1 7/8”x17.25 aluminum Tail tube
Vertical Stabilizer:
1 Sheeted Foam Vertical fin
1 Sheeted foam Rudder assembly
1 Balsa Rudder post

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Assembly:
Note: Before using any glue or cutting of wood, we suggest that you do some pre-assemble to
make sure that you understand the assembly procedure and how the parts fit.
Engine Box assembly
We suggest you use alpihatic resin glue for construction of the fuselage. It is easily cleaned
and allows time for fitting parts together.
Required parts
2) EBS 1) TF
1) F1 1) F2
1) F3 2) aluminum landing gear bracket
1. Mark and drill the motor box sides for the angle aluminum brackets (landing gear
mounts)
2. Glue TF (tank floor) into slots on the right EBS (engine box side). Make sure that
the tabs on TF are facing forward.
3. Glue the left EBS onto TF. Make sure all the tabs are seated in place. Wipe away
any excess glue.
4. Slide F1 into place. Test fit F1 into the EBS and the TF front tabs. When satisfied
with the fit glue in place.
5. Slide F3, (DO NOT GLUE) onto the end of EBS.
Motor Box Assembly Use Aliphatic Resin Sleeve
1. Glue TF into slots in one MBS. Make sure that the tabs on TF are facing forward.
2. Glue other side of TF into slots in second MBS.
3. Glue F1 into the assembly from steps 1 and 2.
4. Glue F2 into place. Secure with tape or rubber bands.
5. Place, but don’t glue the ends of MBS sides into the slots in F3.
6. Bolt in the landing gear mount brackets in place on MBS. Match up the slot and the
boltholes
7. The flat part of F1, F2, and F3 is the top of the fuselage. Turn the whole assemble
upside down so the top of the assembly is resting on your flat work bench, and
place weights on the MBS sides so that the flat part of F1, F2, and F3 is resting flat
on your work bench. Let this assembly dry. Make sure that the sides of the TF are
directly against the sides of both MBS sides, and that all the sides of F1 are directly
against both MBS sides and TF while the assembly dries.

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Fuselage Sides Assembly
A. Join Fuselage Sides
1. Take a long piece of aluminum angle or straight edge (at least 5 ft. long) and lay
it along the top of the FF side. Tape the FF side to the aluminum bar in 3 or 4
places. Lay a small piece of wax paper where the two fuselages sides will be
joined. Now place a bead of glue on the edge of the AFT side where it will butt
to the other side, and butt in against the forward fuselage side. While the glue
sets, set the top of the fuselage side against the aluminum angle or straight edge,
and tape the AFT fuselage side to the aluminum bar. This assures that the entire
top part of the fuselage is straight.
2. At the splice, make a mark 3/8 “ from the edges of the fuselage sides at the top
and bottom. Place the fuselage splice plate FSP over the joint. Note that the slot
on the splice plate is at the bottom of the fuselage side and also note the taper of
the splice plate so it matches the taper of the fuselage side bottom. Check that
the ends of the splice plate are in line with the 3/8 inch mark you made. If
necessary, sand the top and bottom of the splice plate to match the marks you
made. Prior to gluing the splice plate, make sure that the slot on the splice plate
matches up with the slot on the fuselage side. Now glue the splice plate in place.
3. Make pencil marks perpendicular to the top of the fuselage side at the aft part of
the slots. These marks will help to locate the vertical 3/8 balsa stringers and also
keep them perpendicular to the top fuselage sides. Use a triangle or square for
this operation.
4. Take one 3/8 square balsa stick and splice it to one 3/8 square stick to make a
longeron approximately 82 inches long. Use at least a 45-degree angle to
splice the sticks together. Repeat this procedure 3 more times, so you will have
four 3/8 inch square longerons, approximately 82 inches long.
5. Glue the longerons to the top and bottom of the fuselage sides with aliphatic
resin glue. Take extra care that the longerons at the fuselage top line are
exactly with the top of the fuselage sides.
6. After the glue joints for the top and bottom longerons have dried, install the 4
vertical stringers aft of the slot, and lined up with the line you drew in step 3.
The vertical stringer has one side cut at an angle to match the angle of the
fuselage side. When gluing in this stringers, check that you have the angle of the
stringers lined up properly with the angle of the fuselage side.
7. Glue the aft doubler plate in place. When gluing, align the holes for the stab
tube socket by placing the socket in the holes. After you have aligned the
holes, remove the tube socket so it does not get glued in with the doubler.
8. Cut 3/8 in square balsa cross piece stringers, which will be glued to the bottom
formers BF1, BF2, BF3, and BF4. See plans for correct location of the stringers.
Before gluing in the stringers to the formers, make a copy of each stringer,
which will be used for cross pieces at the tope of the fuselage.

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9. Repeat steps A1 thru A7 for the other fuselage side. Make sure you will make
one left side and one right side.
B. Draw Fuselage Top View On Your Workbench
1. Prior to assembling the fuselage, you need to draw the top view of the fuselage
on your workbench. The reason a full size top view is not provided is because
the paper trends to shrink or expand with changes in temperature and humidity,
and will render the drawing inaccurate.
2. Draw a centerline on your workbench approximately 78.5 inches long.
3. At one edge of the centerline, make a line perpendicular to the centerline, 7 5/8
inches from each side of the centerline, for a total width of 15 ¼ inches. This is
where you will line up the front former F1.
4. Now from the F1 line, measure back 78 1/8 inches and draw another line
perpendicular to the centerline 1 ¼ inch from each side of the line, for a total
width of 2 ½ inches. This is the aft end of the fuselage. Draw a line connecting
the front and rear measurements marks you just made. This will form the top (or
bottom) view of the fuselage sides.
5. To aid in the accurate assembly of the fuselage, it is recommended that at least 2
pieces of 1 inch x 1/8 inch x 80 aluminum angles be available. If you have 4
pieces that would be better.
C. Fuselage Assembly
1. Lay one of the fuselage sides on your work bench with the longerons and
stringers facing up. Now, place the motor box assembly on the fuselage side,
matching up the tabs on the motor box assembly with the slots on the fuselage
side.
2. Turn the assembly over, and repeat the procedure with the other fuselage side.
Place aluminum angles on the workbench, and lay the assembly upside down on
top of the aluminum angles, and clamp the fuselage sides to the aluminum
angles.
3. Install, but don’t glue in yet, the wing tube socket into the holes in the fuselage
side and the motor box sides.
4. Now, glue the motor box assembly and former F3 to the fuselage sides. Note
that there are few ways that this can be done. If you have large clamps where
you can clamp formers F1, F2, and F3 to the fuselage sides, then a slow drying
glue such as aliphatic resin or 15 min epoxy can be used. Of course, you will
first have to remove the motor box assembly from the fuselage sides so you can
place the glue, and then reassemble it to the fuselage sides.

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5. Glue 3/8 sq. balsa corner blocks between F1 and the fuselage sides, and F3 and
the fuselage sides. Use the 3/8 sq. pieces that have been beveled on one side to
match the taper of the fuselage side.
6. Glue in additional 3/8 sq. balsa corner blocks between F1, F2, F3 and the motor
box sides.
7. Place the tail wheel plate TWB1 into the slots at the aft end of the fuselage
sides. Check the alignment of the fuselage with the lines you drew for the
fuselage top view on your workbench, then glue in TWB1. Now glue on TWB2.
Glue in the aft fuselage balsa piece at the tail end of the fuselage.
8. In this step, if you have 2 more aluminum angles, clamp them to the top sides of
the fuselage as an aid in keeping the fuselage sides straight. Now, glue in former
BF1 and the cross stringer that is the same width as the stringer on BF1. Repeat
for formers BF2, BF3 and BF4. When gluing in these formers and stringers,
check alignment of the fuselage with the top view drawing on your workbench.
9. Glue in the wing and tail tube sockets in their respective positions on the
fuselage sides.
10. Insert the aluminum wing and tail tubes into the sockets. With the fuselage still
upside down on the workbench, from the rear of the fuselage, sight the wing and
tail tubes to check if they are parallel to each other. You can also measure the
vertical distance of the wing tube socket ends to see if both ends are equal. If the
wing tube vertical distance from the workbench is not equal, prop up one side so
that the wing tube distances are the same. Now, check the vertical distance of
the tail tube from the workbench to see if both ends have the same distance. If
the tubes are not parallel to each other, prop up one fuselage side with shims at
the tail tube end so that the distances are the same, and place weights on the
fuselage so the fuselage will twist with the shims on the fuselage side. Sight
again to see if both wing and tail tubes are parallel.
11. Now install the 3/8 sq. balsa diagonal braces, FD1 thru FD5 at the top and
bottom of the fuselage. The ends of the diagonal braces are glued to the fuselage
longerons. Install the braces such that the angles are staggered at the top, and
the opposite stagger at the bottom of the fuselage. Note that there is on 1 FD5,
which goes on the fuselage bottom. (At the top if the fuselage is upside down on
the workbench).
Turtledeck
NOTE: DON’T GLUE IN THE TURTLEDECK UNTIL THE FRONT HATCH HAS
BEEN COMPLETED. THEN, THE TURTLEDECK CAN BE INSTALLED RIGHT
BEHIND HATCH FORMER FH4.
NOTE: PROBABLY, CAPPING THE FRONT AND REAR OF THE
TURTLEDECK SHOULD BE DONE AFTER THE TURTLEDECK IS GLUED TO
THE FUSELAGE. IF THE TURTLEDECK WIDTH DOES NOT MATCH UP

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WITH THE FUSELAGE WIDTH, IT WILL BE DIFFICULT TO FORCE THE
TURTLEDECK WIDTH TO MATCH THE FUSELAGE WIDTH FRONT AND
REAR ALREADY CAPPED.
A. Cap the Front and Rear of the Turtledeck
1. Find 2 pieces of 3/32 x 4 scrap balsa sheet that are as wide as the front of the
turtledeck, and edge glue them together.
2. Place this piece over the front of the turtledeck and trace the front turtledeck
outline.
3. Cut out the outline, then glue the piece to the front of the turtledeck and tape in
place as the glue sets.
4. Glue the end turtledeck former FTD into the back of the turtledeck, and when
dry, trim to match the aft turtledeck shape.
B. Install the turtledeck assembly to the fuselage.
1. Mark the location of the turtledeck on the fuselage.
2. Tack glue small pieces of scrap 3/16 by ½ x 3 balsa on the fuselage sides where
the turtledeck is to be glued. This will help line up the turtledeck with the
fuselage sides while it is being glued to the fuselage.
3. Glue the turtledeck to the fuselage and hold it down with several pieces of
masking tape to the fuselage side. Check the alignment of the turtledeck with
the fuselage. If some part of the turtledeck is inside the fuselage line, place a
balsa spreader bar at the inside of the turtledeck to force the turtledeck to match
up with the fuselage side.
4. When dry, remove the temporary pieces of 3/16 x ½ x 3 pieces from the
fuselage side, and sand the turtledeck flush with the fuselage sides.
Removable Forward Hatch Assembly
A. Hatch Framework
1. Trail fit FH1, FH2, and FH3 into the forward hatch plate, FHP.
2. Glue FH1 to the forward part of FHP. Check that FH1 is perpendicular to FHP.
3. Glue the ends of FH2 to the middle part of FHP. Check that FH2 is
perpendicular to FHP. Glue a ¼ square balsa stringer to the bottom of FH2, on
the forward end of the hatch plate. This will stiffen up FH2.

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4. Glue FH3 to the aft end of FHP, again checking that it is perpendicular to
FHHP.
5. Look for the 2 pieces of 3/8 square balsa that are 39 1/8 inches long. These
make up the hatch longerons.
6. Pin the hatch longerons directly on top of the fuselage longerons, lining up the
front ends of the hatch longerons with the front end of the fuselage longerons.
When pinning the hatch longerons, pin them from the side, and not from the top,
since the hatch plate and the cockpit floor will be glued to the top of the hatch
longerons.
7. Now glue the forward hatch assembly on top of the hatch longerons, matching
up former FH1 with fuselage former F1. It is suggested that aliphatic resin glue
be used here so you have time to line up the forward hatch assembly to the
hatch longerons. Tape the forward hatch assembly to the hatch longeron while
the glue sets. Be careful when putting glue on the 3/8 square cutouts on hatch
formers FH1 to FH3 so you don’t glue the hatch longerons to the fuselage
longerons.
8. Trail fit the cockpit floor, CF, into the slots in former FH3. Then glue CF into
FH3 and the hatch longerons. Check that CF liens up with both the left and right
side of the hatch longerons.
9. Temporarily tape the turtledeck about 1/8 inch behind the hatch longerons. This
will aid in setting the angle of FH4 when gluing it to the rear end of the hatch
longerons.
10. Check the fit of FH4 at the aft end of CF and the hatch longerons. When ok,
glue FH4 in place to the slots of CF and to the hatch longerons. Use the
turtledeck to get the correct back slant angle of former FH4.
11. Now install the stringers to complete the hatch framework. The center stringer is
¼ x ½ and the rest of the stringers are ¼ square balsa. Note that the stringer
nearest the hatch longeron extends all the way back to the former FH4, and will
help form the cockpit sides. When gluing in this stringer, make sure that you
twist the stringer to fit the slot of FH4, the side remains on the same side as on
formers FH1 thru FH3.
12. Install a ¼ stringer on the outer edge of the top of the cockpit floor CF, right
behind FH3 and extending after all the way to FH4. Repeat for the other side.
13. Glue 3/32 sheet vertical grain shear webs between the two ¼ inch cockpit
stringers at the inside of the cockpit. These shear webs in combination with the
outer hatch skin strengthens this assembly for support of the canopy.
B. Hatch Sheeting
1. Take two sheet s of 3/32 x 3 x 48 and cut them into two 40 inch lengths.
2. Take one sheets of 3/32 x 4 x 48 and cut them into three 15 inch lengths.

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3. Cut and tape up the sheets as shown on the diagram below. Then fold over the
sheets at the tape, and glue the edges together.
4. After the glue has dried, spray the forward part of the sheeting with water in the
area where it will curve around formers FH1 to FH3, then place the sheeting
over the hatch assembly and tape it to the hatch assembly, all the way around to
the fuselage sides. Let the moisture on the sheeting dry so the curvature will
take a set.
5. There are two ways to glue the hatch sheeting to the framework. One way is to
glue the sheeting to the hatch framework with the hatch on the fuselage, and the
other is to remove the hatch framework and sheet the framework on your
workbench.
6. If you sheet the hatch while on the fuselage, it will be necessary to place some
wax paper between the hatch longerons and the fuselage longerons so you don’t
end up possibly gluing the hatch to the fuselage. Then you need to pin the hatch
longerons to the fuselage longerons in such a way that the pins will not interfere
with the sheeting, an at the same time, be able to remove the pins after the hatch
has been sheeted. Also, you need to trim the sheeting so the sides fit flush with
the fuselage.
7. Now you can glue the sheeting to the formers, stringers, and hatch longerons.
Tape the sheeting all the way around to both sides of the fuselage. At the
cockpit sides, use clamps and tape, keep the skin tight against the stringers and
longerons. Note that the sheeting at the cockpit sides will be oversized. This can
be trimmed after the sheeting glue has dried on the framework.
8. If you sheet the hatch on your workbench, block it up so it is resting about ½
above your workbench. Make sure your workbench is flat. Now, go ahead and
glue the sheeting to the framework. The sheeting will extend slightly below the
hatch longerons. Tape all the way around to the bottom of the longerons, and
use clamps and tape to hold the sheeting to the cockpit side stringers.
9. After the sheeting glue has dried, trim the sheeting at the front to line up with
former FH1, and trim it at the bottom so it is flush with the bottom longeron.
10. Make a vertical mark 20 5/8 inches from the front of the hatch at the cockpit
side skin. Repeat for the other side. Trim the sheeting flush with the top of the
cockpit stringer from former FH4 up to the vertical mark you just made.
11. At former FH3, make a mark on the sheeting, 4 5/8 inches from the center
stringer and repeat for the other side. Trim the sheeting flush with former FH3
up to the marks you just made.
12. Now draw a slight curve between the point where you trimmed the sheeting on
former FH3, and the vertical mark you made in step 10 above. Trim the sheeting
on both left and right sides. This completes the cockpit cutout for the canopy.

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Hatch Installation On Fuselage
A. Hatch Mounting Tabs
1. Mark the locations where the ¼ inch lite-ply hatch mounting tabs will be glued
to the sides of the hatch longerons. These locations are as follows: From the rear
face of former FH1, measure 1 inch back and make a mark. Make another mark
2 ½ inches behind the first mark. Repeat for the other side. These are the
locations of the front tabs.
2. For the middle tab, make a mark 18 inches from the back face of former FH1,
and a second mark 2 ½ inches behind it. Repeat for the other side. These are the
location of the middle tabs.
3. For the back tab make a mark 35 ½ inches from the back face of former FH1
and another mark 2 ½ inches behind it. Repeat for the other side. These are the
locations of the rear tabs.
4. Now glue in the hatch mounting tabs to the hatch longeron and the forward
hatch plate FHP and cockpit floor, CF at the locations marked.
B. Mounting Hatch to Fuselage
1. Place hatch on fuselage and line up F1 and FH1. Lift up on hatch slightly to
reveal the locations of the hatch mounting tabs. Mark a vertical line on the
outside of the fuselage at the center of the hatch mounting tabs. Repeat for the
other side. Remove the hatch from the fuselage.
2. At the vertical marks, measure 5/8 inch from the top of the fuselage. This is the
center of the hatch mounting bolts.
3. Glue six ¼ inch lite-ply hatch mounting blocks inside fuselage, behind the hatch
mounting bolt center marks. Center the blocks on the bolt hole center marks.
Glue the blocks to the bottom of the fuselage longeron, and the 1/8 inch
fuselage side.
4. At the bolt hole locations drill a 3/l8 diameter hole through the 1/8 lite-ply
fuselage sides and the ¼ inch lite play hatch mounting blocks. After drilling,
trial fit the 3/8 inch hatch mounting dowels to make sure that they fit properly.
5. Glue the 1/8 inch lite-play hatch block doubler plates to the ¼ inch lite-ply
doubler blocks in the fuselage.
6. Drill the center of the 6 hatch mounting dowels for a 6-32 bolt, then glue the
dowels at the hatch mounting holes on the fuselage. When dry, sand the dowels
flush with the fuselage side.
7. Now reinstall the hatch on the fuselage and line up the front of F1 with the front
of FH1.

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8. Press down on the hatch firmly so there is very little or no gap between the
hatch and fuselage. Checking to be sure that F1 and FH1 are lined up properly,
drill a hole from the dowel and through the hatch mounting tab. To keep the
hatch properly lined up, place a 6-32 bolt through the dowel and hatch mounting
tab after each hole is drilled.
9. Repeat the procedure for the remaining 5 mounting tabs.
10. Now undo the bolts and remove the hatch from the fuselage.
11. Enlarge the holes in the hatch mounting tabs to fit the bosses on the blind nuts.
12. Reinstall the hatch on the fuselage, place CA on the blind nut flanges, place the
blind nut on the hole in the hatch mounting tab and run a bolt through the
mounting dowel and into the blind nut. Tighten the bolt until the blind nut is
fully seated on the hatch mounting tab. This is the best way to install the blind
nut so that the bolt and the blind nut line up perfectly with each other.
13. Repeat step 12 for all the remaining hatch mounting tabs.
14. If necessary, sand the hatch sides flush with the fuselage sides.
FIREWALL INSTALLATION
The firewall needs to be cut to size and laminated together with 30-minute epoxy. Glue the
firewall in with epoxy. Do not use epoxy with a cure time of less than 30 minutes.
DA 150 or 3W 150.
For 2 ¾ degree of right thrust set the front left of the firewall (sitting in the cockpit) at 10
1/16 of an inch from the first former, Set the right side of the front of the firewall at 9 ½
inches from the firewall. This will give you the correct spacing for the cowl and spinner.
Don’t forget to offset your engine 12mm to the left for correct centering of the prop shaft
when adding right thrust.
Included are the instructions for the ARF which will guide you through suggested
equipment and setup.