K1EL K44 User manual

K1EL K44-KIT CW Keyboard/Reader Kit Assembly Guide Rev A
K44 Kit Assembly Guide Rev A PCB 5/20/2020 Page 1
Introduction
This document will describe how to assemble and test the K44 Keyboard/Reader Kit. The assembly of a K44 is
not very difficult, but is probably not a good “first kit” since there many challenging assembly steps. Before you
start working on the kit you will need to gather the following items
1) A low wattage (40W) soldering iron or pencil or temperature controller solder station.
2) Good grade of Rosin core solder, Please do not use ACID CORE Solder !!
3) A good pair of wire cutters, small pliers, assorted screwdrivers, and a 5/64” Allen wrench
4) A Volt Ohmmeter or DVM is required for several assembly steps
5) A magnifying glass is very helpful
6) Power supply providing a voltage between 8 to 13 VDC (9VDC is optimum) at about 250 ma.
7) Optional: An audio signal generator or radio receiver with a calibrate function.
It is very important to take your time and carefully follow the instructions and assembly photos.
The main tasks are 1) Identify components, install them in the correct board location and then do a good job
soldering them in place. Experienced builders will have no problem with the process but others will have to take
their time and carefully examine the board photos and refer to the bill of materials often. Please don’t assemble
the kit in a manner other than as described, the order of the steps is very important from a mechanical
perspective and if you don’t follow them you can end up with a kit that can’t be completed.
As mentioned, these instructions assume you have basic electronic kit building experience and can identify
different types of electronic components. Photos are provided which will greatly aid in assembling the kit
correctly. The instructions don’t provide component by component instruction but more of a general section by
section flow. The biggest enemy of kit success is poor soldering, so please take care with each solder joint, and
use just enough heat to get a good connection. A good joint should be both shiny and smooth. Even experienced
builders can benefit from reading Appendices A, B & C at the end of this document.
Bill of Materials
The bill of materials is listed below. The first step is to inventory and identify all parts ahead of time. This will
allow the assembly to proceed smoothly. Let us know if you are missing any parts.
Reference Des. Qty Part Description Package Other Info Check Off
R10 1 100 ohm Resistor 1/8 Watt Brn Blk Brn _________
R8,R12 2 10K ohm Resistor 1/8 Watt Brn Blk Org _________
R16 1 47 Ohm Resistor 1/8 Watt Yel Violet Blk _________
R13,R14,R11,R20 6 470 Ohm Resistor 1/8 Watt Yel Violet Brn _________
R21,R23
R15,R17,R18,R19,R22, 9 4.7K Ohm Resistor 1/8 Watt Yel Violet Red _________
R3,R4,R1,R7
R9 1 47 ohm 1/2 Watt Yel Violet Blk _________
R6 1 5.76K Ohm 1% Resistor 1/8 Watt Blue Axial _________
R2 1 33.2K Ohm 1% Resistor 1/8 Watt Blue Axial _________
R5 1 66.5K Ohm 1% Resistor 1/8 Watt Blue Axial _________
C3,C4 2 .001uF Capacitor (102) Ceramic Disk .2” spacing _________
C1,C16,C19,C2,C21 8 .1uF,Capacitor (104) Ceramic Disk .2” spacing _________
C14,C15,C20
C22,C23,C5,C6,C13 5 .01uF,Capacitor (103) Ceramic .2” spacing _________
C7 1 .1uF Capacitor (104) Mylar film .2” spacing _________
C11,C12 2 .012uF Mylar Cap (123) Mylar film .2” spacing _________
C9 1 .47uF Capacitor (104) Ceramic .2” spacing _________
C17,C18,C8 3 33uF Electrolytic Cap Radial .1” Spacing _________

K1EL K44-KIT CW Keyboard/Reader Kit Assembly Guide Rev A
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C10 1 100uF Electrolytic Cap Radial .1” Spacing _________
L1,L2 2 1uH,Inductor Leaded Ferrite leaded _________
U1 1 AQW280EH SS Relay 8 pin DIP no socket _________
U4 1 16F1825 Keyer PIC 14 pin DIP socketed, dot _________
U2 1 CY8C27143 PSoC 8 pin DIP socketed _________
U3 1 MCP6002 Dual Op Amp 8 pin DIP no socket _________
U6 1 16F1825 Console PIC 14 pin DIP socketed _________
U7 1 24LC32A Serial EEPROM 8 pin DIP no socket _________
U5 1 12F508 LED Driver PIC 8 pin DIP no socket _________
Q1 1 PN2222A Transistor TO-92 _________
D3,D4,D5,D6,D7 5 CWR Tuning LED Right Angle Green _________
D2` 1 CWR Tuning LED Right Angle Red _________
D1 1 1N4001 Diode DO-41 _________
VR1 1 LM7805 5 Volt Regulator TO220 _________
DP1 1 Sunlike SD1602H LCD Display PCB Module _________
SP1 1 Mini Speaker _________
J1,J2,J3 3 Stereo Phone Jack 1/8 Inch Jack AF, Key, Pdl _________
J4 1 Keyboard Connector PS2 6 Pin DIN _________
J5 1 Power Connector 2.5 mm female receptacle _________
P1 1 Power Connector 2.5 mm male plug _________
ENC1 1 Rotary Encoder Panel Mount _________
ENC-BKO 1 Encoder Breakout Board Small PCB _________
MISC 1 K44 Enclosure _________
MISC 1 Control Knob Plastic 1/4” shaft _________
MISC 4 Rubber Feet Press in _________
MISC 1 16 pin Header Right Angle Tinned leads _________
MISC 3 4-40 Hex Nuts w/lock washers _________
MISC 1 K44-KIT Rev A PC Board _________
MISC 4 4-40 1/4” Screws Black for enclosure cover _________
MISC 5 4-40 1/4” Screws For PCB & heatsink mounting _________
MISC 2 14 pin DIP socket for U4 and U6 (Keyer & Console PICs) _________
MISC 2 8 pin DIP socket for U2 (PSoC) _________
MISC 1 10” length of hook up wire _________
MISC 1 Heatsink _________

K1EL K44-KIT CW Keyboard/Reader Kit Assembly Guide Rev A
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K44 Kit Assembly Instructions
First task is to assemble the K44 PC board. It will progress in sections, a picture will accompany each section.
We will start with the resistors, the color codes are listed in the parts list. We recommend verifying values with an
ohmmeter. 1/8 watt resistors can be difficult to read and it is difficult to unsolder them. Use Figure 1 below as a guide.
Note that there are two 47 ohm resistors, a large one (1/2W) and a small one (1/8W). The large one goes in R9 and
small one in R16.
Note about precision resistor installation. These are the three blue colored resistors. The color code is very hard to
read on these, Please use either an ohmmeter to sort them out. They are far enough apart in value so it’s pretty easy.
Note that depending on your meter’s calibration and the tolerance of the resistors, you probably will not read the
exact value but all we are trying to do is sort them into three values: 5.76K, 33.2K, and 66.5K.
Figure 1 – Section 1: Resistor Installation

K1EL K44-KIT CW Keyboard/Reader Kit Assembly Guide Rev A
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Continue with the ceramic capacitors, followed by three mylar capacitors. Next install the leaded ferrite beads L1 & L2
and three IC sockets. Final installation in this section is diode D1 with the polarity marker on the left as shown.
Figure 2 – Section 2: Capacitor, Sockets, Ferrite, and D1 Installation

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This section starts with the LEDs D2-D7. Install them so that they are all even with the front edge of the board and
there is equal space between them. Save the Red LED for last at position D7. The best thing to do is start in the
middle and work your way right and left. Put in D4 first, tack solder one lead and tweak the placement to get the front
edge aligned right. Then install D5 the same way and space it so that D4 and D5 are not touching and there is about
1/32” gap between them. Go back and forth D4, D5, D3, D6, D2, and D7. It should look at least as good as the
picture below when you are done. Please spend extra time with this because you will see the bodies of the LEDs
through the front panel and the better they look, the better the whole assembly will look.
Now install ICs: U1, U3, U5, and U7 which don’t require sockets. Be sure that the dimple on the top of the IC aligns
with the silkscreen number 1. You will have to carefully bend the IC pins in to get them to insert into PC board. See
picture below. Complete this section with Q1, flat side aligned with the silkscreen.
Carefully bend IC leads
Figure 3 – Section 3: LED, IC, and Q1 Installation

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Start section 4 with the connectors J1, J2, J3, and J4. Make sure that each one is fully seated in the board before
soldering. It’s best to do them one at a time. It’s important to align these connectors correctly and neatly with the
silkscreen so that they will fit properly in the metal enclosure.
The electrolytic capacitors are installed with the polarity bands facing as shown (long lead into square hole). Install
the mini speaker with the plus side facing R16. After soldering remove the protection sticker. Solder VR1 in place, tab
away from C2. If you are not going to use the optional on/off switch, solder a jumper between pads S1 and S2. If
undecided, you can cut or remove the jumper and add the switch later. (See page xx for more details)
Before installing the socketed ICs, make up a power supply cable to test the board. A mate to J5 is included in the kit.
Solder two wires to the connector, with the plus lead on the center pin. If you have a 9 to 13VDC wall wart supply with
a 2.5mm connector, center pin positive, that will work fine. Current rating must be greater than 100 mA. Double
check that the center pin of the power connector is positive with respect to the shell and then plug it into J5. The K44
does have a polarity protection diode but it’s worth the extra step to make sure the cable is right.
Apply voltage to the board and you should measure 5 volts between the R9 and the tab on VR1 (GND). If you don’t
see 5 volts you will need to do some detective work. First of all, verify that your cable is wired correctly. Then make
sure that VR1 is installed correctly and that all the electrolytics are installed as shown in the picture. If that’s ok you
will need to examine your solder workmanship to be sure there are not solder shorts or missed solder connections.
Once this is verified you can install U2, U4, and U6. You will need to bend the IC pins in order to get them to fit in the
sockets (see Fig 3). Note that pin one of each IC (dimple) must align with the 1 on the silkscreen. Note U4 has a red
dot, U2 has a silver dot, and U6 has no dot.
Figure 4 – Section 4: Connector, Electrolytic, VR, and IC Installation

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Following are some close ups of the board to help verify part placement, Note that R10 is not installed:
Figures 5 & 6 – Close Up Views

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LCD Installation
This is the most challenging step in assembling a K44. Please read through the entire procedure so that you fully
understand how it is done. If you make a mistake here, it will be very difficult to fix it so go slowly and follow each step
closely. Some assembly pictures were taken with a previous revision of the K44 pcb board, but the display
assembly procedure is exactly the same.
NOTE: the LCD module uses a delicate film ribbon interconnect which can be easily torn or damaged by soldering
iron. When picking the display up try to hold it by the sides avoiding contact with the ribbon.
Figure 7 – Caution, do not damage ribbon film interconnect
Begin by installing four rubber feet into the bottom of the enclosure base and set it aside for now.
Figure 8 - Rubber feet in place on bottom half of enclosure
Insert the 16 pin header into the LCD module as shown in figure 5. The plastic bracket on the display module may
make this a bit difficult. If you start with the header at an angle it will help. Once in place, make sure the header is
fully seated and on the correct side, but do not solder this yet !
Figure 9 – Insert header into display module – DO NOT SOLDER THE PINS YET !!

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Now fit the unsoldered LCD/Header sub-assembly into the K44 PC board as shown in figure 10.
Figure 10 – Insert subassembly into K44 PC board
Now slide this loose sub-assembly in place into the enclosure base. Carefully fit the display notches over the
threaded studs on the front panel. Note that the header should naturally seat into both the LCD module and K44
board, if you find yourself forcing anything you probably have something misaligned.
Figure 11 – Slide subassembly into K44 enclosure base on threaded studs

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Attach the K44 PC board to the base with two 4-40 screws. Then fix the LCD display to the front bezel with two 4-40
nuts. Use just enough force to hold the display in place so it is nearly flat against the front panel and centered in the
enclosure display window. DO NOT USE A NUT DRIVER, tighten by finger force only !!!
Figure 12 – Add 4-40 nuts and screws to hold subassembly in place
Figure 13 – Close up of display fixed to front panel (DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN DISPLAY NUTS !!)
Double and triple check the alignment and make sure the header is fully seated into the LCD display module. Loosen
the display nuts if necessary to get a good centered display alignment then re-tighten