Oomlout ARDX User manual

Arduino
Experimenter’s
Guide
(ARDX)
(ARDX)
arduino experimentation kit

01
TBCN
table of contents
A Few Words
About this Kit
The overall goal of this kit is fun. Beyond this, the aim is to get
you comfortable using a wide range of electronic components
through small, simple and easy circuits. The focus is to get
each circuit working then giving you the tools to figure out why.
If you encounter any problems, want to ask a question, or would
About Open Source Hardware
All of .:oomlout:.'s projects are open source. What does this mean? It means everything
involved in making this kit, be it this guide, 3D models, or code is available for free download.
But it goes further, you're also free to reproduce and modify any of this material, then distribute
it for yourself. The catch? Quite simple; it is released under a Creative Commons (By - Share
Alike) license. This means you must credit .:oomlout:. in your design and share your
developments in a similar manner. Why? We grew up learning and playing with open source
software and the experience was good fun, we think it would be lovely if a similar experience
was possible with physical things.
(more details on the Creative Commons CC (By - Share Alike) License can be found at )
( http://tinyurl.com/2dkzmd )
About .: oomlout :.
We’re a plucky little design company focusing on producing
“delightfully fun open source products”
To check out what we are up to
http://www.oomlout.com
About Problems
We strive to deliver the highest level of quality in each and every thing we produce. If you ever
find an ambiguous instruction, a missing piece, or would just like to ask a question, we’ll try our
best to help out. You can reach us at:
(we like hearing about problems it helps us improve future versions)
Thanks For Choosing .:oomlout:.
.: Where to Find Everything :.
Before We Start
{ASEM} Assembling the Pieces 02
{INST} Installing the Software 03
{PROG} A Small Programming Primer 04
{ELEC} A Small Electronics Primer 06
The Circuits
{CIRC01} Getting Started - (Blinking LED) 08
{CIRC02} 8 LED Fun - (Multiple LEDs) 10
{CIRC03} Spin Motor Spin - (Transistor and Motor) 12
{CIRC04} A Single Servo - (Servos) 14
{CIRC05} 8 More LEDs - (74HC595 Shift Register) 16
{CIRC06} Music - (Piezo Elements) 18
{CIRC07} Button Pressing - (Pushbuttons) 20
{CIRC08} Twisting - (Potentiometers) 22
{CIRC09} Light - (Photo Resistors) 24
{CIRC10} Temperature - (TMP36 Temperature Sensor) 26
{CIRC11} Larger Loads - (Relays) 28

01
TBCN
table of contents
A Few Words
About this Kit
The overall goal of this kit is fun. Beyond this, the aim is to get
you comfortable using a wide range of electronic components
through small, simple and easy circuits. The focus is to get
each circuit working then giving you the tools to figure out why.
If you encounter any problems, want to ask a question, or would
About Open Source Hardware
All of .:oomlout:.'s projects are open source. What does this mean? It means everything
involved in making this kit, be it this guide, 3D models, or code is available for free download.
But it goes further, you're also free to reproduce and modify any of this material, then distribute
it for yourself. The catch? Quite simple; it is released under a Creative Commons (By - Share
Alike) license. This means you must credit .:oomlout:. in your design and share your
developments in a similar manner. Why? We grew up learning and playing with open source
software and the experience was good fun, we think it would be lovely if a similar experience
was possible with physical things.
(more details on the Creative Commons CC (By - Share Alike) License can be found at )
( http://tinyurl.com/2dkzmd )
About .: oomlout :.
We’re a plucky little design company focusing on producing
“delightfully fun open source products”
To check out what we are up to
http://www.oomlout.com
About Problems
We strive to deliver the highest level of quality in each and every thing we produce. If you ever
find an ambiguous instruction, a missing piece, or would just like to ask a question, we’ll try our
best to help out. You can reach us at:
(we like hearing about problems it helps us improve future versions)
Thanks For Choosing .:oomlout:.
.: Where to Find Everything :.
Before We Start
{ASEM} Assembling the Pieces 02
{INST} Installing the Software 03
{PROG} A Small Programming Primer 04
{ELEC} A Small Electronics Primer 06
The Circuits
{CIRC01} Getting Started - (Blinking LED) 08
{CIRC02} 8 LED Fun - (Multiple LEDs) 10
{CIRC03} Spin Motor Spin - (Transistor and Motor) 12
{CIRC04} A Single Servo - (Servos) 14
{CIRC05} 8 More LEDs - (74HC595 Shift Register) 16
{CIRC06} Music - (Piezo Elements) 18
{CIRC07} Button Pressing - (Pushbuttons) 20
{CIRC08} Twisting - (Potentiometers) 22
{CIRC09} Light - (Photo Resistors) 24
{CIRC10} Temperature - (TMP36 Temperature Sensor) 26
{CIRC11} Larger Loads - (Relays) 28

Step 5: Plug In Your Arduino
Plug your Arduino in:
using the included USB cable, plug your Arduino board into a
free USB port
0302
01 ASEM
assembling the
pieces
Breadboard
x1 Arduino
x1
3mm x 10mm bolt
x2 3mm nut
x4
Arduino Holder
x1
02 INST
installing
(software and hardware)
.: NOTE: :.
.: Encountering problems? :.
.: Would like more details? Using Linux? :.
.:http://tinyurl.com/r99d8u :.
Step 1: Download the software
Goto
http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software
And download the software for your operating system
Windows XP Mac OSX
Step 2: Unzip the Software
Unzip
arduino-00 -win.zip (
Recommended Path
c:\Program Files\
rr rr- version #)
Step 3: Shortcut Icon
Open
c:\program files\arduino-00 (
Right Click
Arduino.exe (send to>Desktop (create shortcut) )
rr\rr- version #)
Step 4: Plug In Your Arduino
Plug your Arduino in:
using the included USB cable, plug your Arduino board into a
free USB port
Wait for a box to pop up
Step 5: Add new Hardware
Skip searching the internet
(click the next box when prompted to do so)
Install from a Specific destination
(click “Install from a list or specific location (Advanced))
Choose the Location
c:\program files\arduino-00rr\drivers\FTDI USB Drivers\
Finished
Step 2: Open The .dmg
Open (mount)
arduino-00 -mac.dmg (rr rr- version #)
Step 4: Install Drivers
Goto
"Arduino" device
FTDI Drivers for Intel Macs ( _ _ ).pkg
(FTDI Drivers for PPC Macs ( __ ).pkg
Double Click & Install
rrrr
rrrr
.: Putting It Together :. .: Installing the IDE :.
This is the program used to write programs for the Arduino (meta?).
It may seem a little daunting at first but once you have it installed
and start playing around, its secrets will reveal themselves
.: For an introduction to what an Arduino is visit :.
.: http://tinyurl.com/9txjmh :.
Step 3: Copy The Application
Goto
"Arduino" (in the devices section of finder)
Move
"Arduino" Application to the
"Applications" folder

Step 5: Plug In Your Arduino
Plug your Arduino in:
using the included USB cable, plug your Arduino board into a
free USB port
0302
01 ASEM
assembling the
pieces
Breadboard
x1 Arduino
x1
3mm x 10mm bolt
x2 3mm nut
x4
Arduino Holder
x1
02 INST
installing
(software and hardware)
.: NOTE: :.
.: Encountering problems? :.
.: Would like more details? Using Linux? :.
.:http://tinyurl.com/r99d8u :.
Step 1: Download the software
Goto
http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software
And download the software for your operating system
Windows XP Mac OSX
Step 2: Unzip the Software
Unzip
arduino-00 -win.zip (
Recommended Path
c:\Program Files\
rr rr- version #)
Step 3: Shortcut Icon
Open
c:\program files\arduino-00 (
Right Click
Arduino.exe (send to>Desktop (create shortcut) )
rr\rr- version #)
Step 4: Plug In Your Arduino
Plug your Arduino in:
using the included USB cable, plug your Arduino board into a
free USB port
Wait for a box to pop up
Step 5: Add new Hardware
Skip searching the internet
(click the next box when prompted to do so)
Install from a Specific destination
(click “Install from a list or specific location (Advanced))
Choose the Location
c:\program files\arduino-00rr\drivers\FTDI USB Drivers\
Finished
Step 2: Open The .dmg
Open (mount)
arduino-00 -mac.dmg (rr rr- version #)
Step 4: Install Drivers
Goto
"Arduino" device
FTDI Drivers for Intel Macs ( _ _ ).pkg
(FTDI Drivers for PPC Macs ( __ ).pkg
Double Click & Install
rrrr
rrrr
.: Putting It Together :. .: Installing the IDE :.
This is the program used to write programs for the Arduino (meta?).
It may seem a little daunting at first but once you have it installed
and start playing around, its secrets will reveal themselves
.: For an introduction to what an Arduino is visit :.
.: http://tinyurl.com/9txjmh :.
Step 3: Copy The Application
Goto
"Arduino" (in the devices section of finder)
Move
"Arduino" Application to the
"Applications" folder

// (single line comment)
It is often useful to write notes
to yourself as you go along
about what each line of code
does. To do this type two back
slashes and everything until the
end of the line will be ignored by
your program.
{ } (curly brackets)
Used to define when a block of
code starts and ends (used in
functions as well as loops)
0504
03 PROG
programming
primer
.: A Small Programming Primer:.
03 PROG
programming
primer
Arduino Programming in Brief
The Arduino is programmed in the C language. This is a quick little primer targeted at people
who have a little bit of programing experience and just need a briefing on the ideosyncrocies of
C and the Arduino IDE. If you find the concepts a bit daunting, don't worry, you can start going
through the circuits and pick up most of it along the way. For a more in depth intro the
Arduino.cc website is a great resource (the foundations page http://tinyurl.com/954pun)
Structure
void setup(){ }
All the code between the two
curly brackets will be run once
when your Arduino program
first runs.
Each Arduino program
(often called a sketch) has
two required functions
(also called routines).
Variables
void loop(){ }
This function is run after setup
has finished. After it has run
once it will be run again, and
again, until power is removed.
Syntax
;(semicolon)
Each line of code must be
ended with a semicolon (a
missing semicolon is often the
reason for a programme
refusing to compile)
One of the slightly
frustrating elements of C is
its formating requirements
(this also makes it very
powerful). If you remember
the following you should be
alright.
/* */(multi line comment)
If you have a lot to say you can
span several lines as a
comment. Everything between
these two symbols will be
ignored in your program.
A program is nothing more
than instructions to move
numbers around in an
intelligent way. Variables are
used to do the moving
long (long)
Used when an integer is not
large enough. Takes 4 bytes
(32 bits) of RAM and has a
range between -2,147,483,648
and 2,147,483,648.
int (integer)
The main workhorse, stores a
number in 2 bytes (16 bits).
Has no decimal places and will
store a value between -32,768
and 32,768.
boolean (boolean)
A simple True or False variable.
Useful because it only uses one
bit of RAM.
char (character)
Stores one character using the
ASCII code (ie 'A' = 65). Uses
one byte (8 bits) of RAM. The
Arduino handles strings as an
array of char’s
float (float)
Used for floating point math
(decimals). Takes 4 bytes (32
bits) of RAM and has a range
between -3.4028235E+38 and
3.4028235E+38.
Maths Operators
=(assignment) makes something equal to something else (eg. x =
10 * 2 (x now equals 20))
%(modulo) gives the remainder when one number is divided by
another (ex. 12 % 10 (gives 2))
+(addition)
- (subtraction)
*(multiplication)
/(division)
Operators used for
manipulating numbers.
(they work like simple
maths)
Comparison Operators
== (equal to) (eg. 12 == 10 is FALSE or 12 == 12 is TRUE)
!= (not equal to) (eg. 12 != 10 is TRUE or 12 != 12 is FALSE)
<(less than) (eg. 12 < 10 is FALSE or 12 < 12 is FALSE or 12 < 14 is TRUE)
>(greater than) (eg. 12 > 10 is TRUE or 12 > 12 is FALSE or 12 > 14 is
FALSE)
Operators used for logical
comparison
Control Structure
if(condition){ }
else if( condition ){ }
else { }
This will execute the code between
the curly brackets if the condition is
true, and if not it will test the else
if condition if that is also false the
else code will execute.
Programs are reliant on
controlling what runs
next, here are the basic
control elements (there
are many more online)
for(int i = 0; i <
#repeats; i++){ }
Used when you would like to
repeat a chunk of code a number
of times (can count up i++ or
down i-- or use any variable)
Digital
digitalWrite(pin, value);
Once a pin is set as an OUTPUT,
it can be set either HIGH (pulled
to +5 volts) or LOW (pulled to
ground).
pinMode(pin, mode);
Used to set a pins mode, pin is
the pin number you would like
to address (0-19 (analog 0-5
are 14-19). the mode can either
be INPUT or OUTPUT.
int digitalRead(pin);
Once a pin is set as an INPUT
you can use this to return
whether it is HIGH (pulled to
+5 volts) or LOW (pulled to
ground).
Analog
int analogWrite(pin,
value);
Some of the Arduino's pins support
pulse width modulation (3, 5, 6, 9, 10,
11). This turns the pin on and off very
quickly making it act like an analog
output. The value is any number
between 0 (0% duty cycle ~0v) and 255
(100% duty cycle ~5 volts).
The Arduino is a digital
machine but it has the ability to
operate in the analog realm
(through tricks). Here's how to
deal with things that aren't
digital.
int analogRead(pin);
When the analog input pins are set
to input you can read their voltage.
A value between 0 (for 0
volts) and 1024 (for 5
volts) will be
returned
.:For a full programming reference visit:.
http://tinyurl.com/882oxm

// (single line comment)
It is often useful to write notes
to yourself as you go along
about what each line of code
does. To do this type two back
slashes and everything until the
end of the line will be ignored by
your program.
{ } (curly brackets)
Used to define when a block of
code starts and ends (used in
functions as well as loops)
0504
03 PROG
programming
primer
.: A Small Programming Primer:.
03 PROG
programming
primer
Arduino Programming in Brief
The Arduino is programmed in the C language. This is a quick little primer targeted at people
who have a little bit of programing experience and just need a briefing on the ideosyncrocies of
C and the Arduino IDE. If you find the concepts a bit daunting, don't worry, you can start going
through the circuits and pick up most of it along the way. For a more in depth intro the
Arduino.cc website is a great resource (the foundations page http://tinyurl.com/954pun)
Structure
void setup(){ }
All the code between the two
curly brackets will be run once
when your Arduino program
first runs.
Each Arduino program
(often called a sketch) has
two required functions
(also called routines).
Variables
void loop(){ }
This function is run after setup
has finished. After it has run
once it will be run again, and
again, until power is removed.
Syntax
;(semicolon)
Each line of code must be
ended with a semicolon (a
missing semicolon is often the
reason for a programme
refusing to compile)
One of the slightly
frustrating elements of C is
its formating requirements
(this also makes it very
powerful). If you remember
the following you should be
alright.
/* */(multi line comment)
If you have a lot to say you can
span several lines as a
comment. Everything between
these two symbols will be
ignored in your program.
A program is nothing more
than instructions to move
numbers around in an
intelligent way. Variables are
used to do the moving
long (long)
Used when an integer is not
large enough. Takes 4 bytes
(32 bits) of RAM and has a
range between -2,147,483,648
and 2,147,483,648.
int (integer)
The main workhorse, stores a
number in 2 bytes (16 bits).
Has no decimal places and will
store a value between -32,768
and 32,768.
boolean (boolean)
A simple True or False variable.
Useful because it only uses one
bit of RAM.
char (character)
Stores one character using the
ASCII code (ie 'A' = 65). Uses
one byte (8 bits) of RAM. The
Arduino handles strings as an
array of char’s
float (float)
Used for floating point math
(decimals). Takes 4 bytes (32
bits) of RAM and has a range
between -3.4028235E+38 and
3.4028235E+38.
Maths Operators
=(assignment) makes something equal to something else (eg. x =
10 * 2 (x now equals 20))
%(modulo) gives the remainder when one number is divided by
another (ex. 12 % 10 (gives 2))
+(addition)
- (subtraction)
*(multiplication)
/(division)
Operators used for
manipulating numbers.
(they work like simple
maths)
Comparison Operators
== (equal to) (eg. 12 == 10 is FALSE or 12 == 12 is TRUE)
!= (not equal to) (eg. 12 != 10 is TRUE or 12 != 12 is FALSE)
<(less than) (eg. 12 < 10 is FALSE or 12 < 12 is FALSE or 12 < 14 is TRUE)
>(greater than) (eg. 12 > 10 is TRUE or 12 > 12 is FALSE or 12 > 14 is
FALSE)
Operators used for logical
comparison
Control Structure
if(condition){ }
else if( condition ){ }
else { }
This will execute the code between
the curly brackets if the condition is
true, and if not it will test the else
if condition if that is also false the
else code will execute.
Programs are reliant on
controlling what runs
next, here are the basic
control elements (there
are many more online)
for(int i = 0; i <
#repeats; i++){ }
Used when you would like to
repeat a chunk of code a number
of times (can count up i++ or
down i-- or use any variable)
Digital
digitalWrite(pin, value);
Once a pin is set as an OUTPUT,
it can be set either HIGH (pulled
to +5 volts) or LOW (pulled to
ground).
pinMode(pin, mode);
Used to set a pins mode, pin is
the pin number you would like
to address (0-19 (analog 0-5
are 14-19). the mode can either
be INPUT or OUTPUT.
int digitalRead(pin);
Once a pin is set as an INPUT
you can use this to return
whether it is HIGH (pulled to
+5 volts) or LOW (pulled to
ground).
Analog
int analogWrite(pin,
value);
Some of the Arduino's pins support
pulse width modulation (3, 5, 6, 9, 10,
11). This turns the pin on and off very
quickly making it act like an analog
output. The value is any number
between 0 (0% duty cycle ~0v) and 255
(100% duty cycle ~5 volts).
The Arduino is a digital
machine but it has the ability to
operate in the analog realm
(through tricks). Here's how to
deal with things that aren't
digital.
int analogRead(pin);
When the analog input pins are set
to input you can read their voltage.
A value between 0 (for 0
volts) and 1024 (for 5
volts) will be
returned
.:For a full programming reference visit:.
http://tinyurl.com/882oxm

DC Motor What it Does: No. of Leads:
Spins when a current is passed through it. 2
Identifying: Things to watch out for:
This one is easy, it looks like a motor. Usually - Using a transistor or relay that is rated for
a cylinder with a shaft coming out of one the size of motor you're using.
end More Details on Wikipedia:
http://tinyurl.com/d826yh
Hobby Servo What it Does: No. of Leads:
Takes a timed pulse and converts it into an 3
angular position of the output shaft. Things to watch out for:
Identifying: - The plug is not polarized so make sure it
A plastic box with 3 wires coming out one is plugged in the right way.
side and a shaft with a plastic horn out the More Details:
top. http://tinyurl.com/4zo4he
0706
04 ELEC
electronics
primer
.: A Small Electronics Primer:.
04 ELEC
electronics
primer
Electronics in Brief
No previous electronic experience is required to have fun with this kit. Here are a few details
about each component to make identifying, and perhaps understanding them, a bit easier. If at
any point you are worried about how a component is used or why its not working the internet
Component Details
LED
(Light Emitting Diode) What it Does: No. of Leads:
Emits light when a small current is passed 2 (one longer this one connects to positive)
through it. (only in one direction) Things to watch out for:
Identifying: - Will only work in one direction
Looks like a mini light bulb. - Requires a current limiting resistor
More Details on Wikipedia:
http://tinyurl.com/zhpyv
Piezo Element
What it Does: No. of Leads:
A pulse of current will cause it to click a 2
stream of pulses will cause it to emit a tone. Things to watch out for:
Identifying: - Difficult to misuse.
In this kit it comes in a little black barrel, but More Details:
sometimes they are just a gold disc. http://tinyurl.com/38crmu
Potentiometer
What it Does: No. of Leads:
Produces a variable resistance dependant on 3
the angular position of the shaft. Things to watch out for:
Identifying: - Accidentally buying logarithmic scale.
They can be packaged in many different More Details:
form factors, look for a dial to identify. http://tinyurl.com/28pbhd
IC (Integrated Circuit)
What it Does: No. of Leads:
Packages any range of complicated 2 - 100s (in this kit there is one with 3 (TMP36) and
one with 16 (74HC595)
electronics inside, an easy to use form factor Things to watch out for:
Identifying: - Proper orientation.(look for marks showing pin 1)
The part ID is written on the outside of the More Details:
package. (this sometimes requires a lot of http://tinyurl.com/87k4d
light or a magnifying glass to read)
Photo Resistor
What it Does: No. of Leads:
Produces a variable resistance dependant on 2
the amount of incident light. Things to watch out for:
Identifying: - Remember it needs to be in a voltage
Usually a little disk with a clear top and a divider before it provides a useful input.
curvy line underneath. More Details:
http://tinyurl.com/c2wdkw
Component Details (cont.)
Pushbutton What it Does: No. of Leads:
Completes a circuit when it is pressed 4
Identifying: Things to watch out for:
A little square with leads out the bottom and - these are almost square so can be
a button on the top. inserted 90 degrees off angle.
More Details:
http://tinyurl.com/cmts7d
0 - Black 5 - Green 20% - none
1 - Brown 6 - Blue 10% - silver
2 - Red 7 - Purple 5% - gold
3 - Orange 8 - Grey
4 - Yellow 9 - White
first digit
second digit
# of zeros
tolerance
Examples:
:green-blue-brown - 560 ohms
red-red-red - 2 200 ohms (2.2k)
Resistor Color Code Lead Clipping
Some components in this kit come with very long wire
leads. To make them more compatible with a breadboard
a couple of changes are required.
LEDs:
Clip the leads so the long lead is ~7mm long and the
short one is ~5mm
Resistors:
Bend the leads down so they are 90 degrees to the
cylinder. Then snip them so they are ~6mm long.
Other Components:
Other components may need clipping
use your discretion when doing so.
Resistors What it Does: No. of Leads:
Restricts the amount of current that can flow 2
through a circuit. Things to watch out for:
Identifying: - Easy to grab the wrong value (double check
the colors before using)
Cylinder with wires extending from either More Details on Wikipedia:
end. The resistance value is displayed using http://tinyurl.com/cmeqw5
a color coding system (for details see next
page)
Transistor What it Does: No. of Leads:
Uses a small current to switch or amplify a 3 (Base, Collector, Emitter)
much larger current. Things to watch out for:
Identifying: - Plugging in the right way round.(also a
current limiting resistor is often needed on the base pin)
Comes in many different packages but you More Details on Wikipedia:
can read the part number off the package. http://tinyurl.com/eazkn
(P2N2222AG in this kit and find a datasheet online)
Diode What it Does: No. of Leads:
The electronic equivalent of a one way 2
valve. Allowing current to flow in one Things to watch out for:
direction but not the other. - Will only work in one direction (current will
flow if end with the line is connected to ground)
Identifying: More Details on Wikipedia:
Usually a cylinder with wires extending from http://tinyurl.com/ysz57b
either end. (and an off center line indicating polarity)

DC Motor What it Does: No. of Leads:
Spins when a current is passed through it. 2
Identifying: Things to watch out for:
This one is easy, it looks like a motor. Usually - Using a transistor or relay that is rated for
a cylinder with a shaft coming out of one the size of motor you're using.
end More Details on Wikipedia:
http://tinyurl.com/d826yh
Hobby Servo What it Does: No. of Leads:
Takes a timed pulse and converts it into an 3
angular position of the output shaft. Things to watch out for:
Identifying: - The plug is not polarized so make sure it
A plastic box with 3 wires coming out one is plugged in the right way.
side and a shaft with a plastic horn out the More Details:
top. http://tinyurl.com/4zo4he
0706
04 ELEC
electronics
primer
.: A Small Electronics Primer:.
04 ELEC
electronics
primer
Electronics in Brief
No previous electronic experience is required to have fun with this kit. Here are a few details
about each component to make identifying, and perhaps understanding them, a bit easier. If at
any point you are worried about how a component is used or why its not working the internet
Component Details
LED
(Light Emitting Diode) What it Does: No. of Leads:
Emits light when a small current is passed 2 (one longer this one connects to positive)
through it. (only in one direction) Things to watch out for:
Identifying: - Will only work in one direction
Looks like a mini light bulb. - Requires a current limiting resistor
More Details on Wikipedia:
http://tinyurl.com/zhpyv
Piezo Element
What it Does: No. of Leads:
A pulse of current will cause it to click a 2
stream of pulses will cause it to emit a tone. Things to watch out for:
Identifying: - Difficult to misuse.
In this kit it comes in a little black barrel, but More Details:
sometimes they are just a gold disc. http://tinyurl.com/38crmu
Potentiometer
What it Does: No. of Leads:
Produces a variable resistance dependant on 3
the angular position of the shaft. Things to watch out for:
Identifying: - Accidentally buying logarithmic scale.
They can be packaged in many different More Details:
form factors, look for a dial to identify. http://tinyurl.com/28pbhd
IC (Integrated Circuit)
What it Does: No. of Leads:
Packages any range of complicated 2 - 100s (in this kit there is one with 3 (TMP36) and
one with 16 (74HC595)
electronics inside, an easy to use form factor Things to watch out for:
Identifying: - Proper orientation.(look for marks showing pin 1)
The part ID is written on the outside of the More Details:
package. (this sometimes requires a lot of http://tinyurl.com/87k4d
light or a magnifying glass to read)
Photo Resistor
What it Does: No. of Leads:
Produces a variable resistance dependant on 2
the amount of incident light. Things to watch out for:
Identifying: - Remember it needs to be in a voltage
Usually a little disk with a clear top and a divider before it provides a useful input.
curvy line underneath. More Details:
http://tinyurl.com/c2wdkw
Component Details (cont.)
Pushbutton What it Does: No. of Leads:
Completes a circuit when it is pressed 4
Identifying: Things to watch out for:
A little square with leads out the bottom and - these are almost square so can be
a button on the top. inserted 90 degrees off angle.
More Details:
http://tinyurl.com/cmts7d
0 - Black 5 - Green 20% - none
1 - Brown 6 - Blue 10% - silver
2 - Red 7 - Purple 5% - gold
3 - Orange 8 - Grey
4 - Yellow 9 - White
first digit
second digit
# of zeros
tolerance
Examples:
:green-blue-brown - 560 ohms
red-red-red - 2 200 ohms (2.2k)
Resistor Color Code Lead Clipping
Some components in this kit come with very long wire
leads. To make them more compatible with a breadboard
a couple of changes are required.
LEDs:
Clip the leads so the long lead is ~7mm long and the
short one is ~5mm
Resistors:
Bend the leads down so they are 90 degrees to the
cylinder. Then snip them so they are ~6mm long.
Other Components:
Other components may need clipping
use your discretion when doing so.
Resistors What it Does: No. of Leads:
Restricts the amount of current that can flow 2
through a circuit. Things to watch out for:
Identifying: - Easy to grab the wrong value (double check
the colors before using)
Cylinder with wires extending from either More Details on Wikipedia:
end. The resistance value is displayed using http://tinyurl.com/cmeqw5
a color coding system (for details see next
page)
Transistor What it Does: No. of Leads:
Uses a small current to switch or amplify a 3 (Base, Collector, Emitter)
much larger current. Things to watch out for:
Identifying: - Plugging in the right way round.(also a
current limiting resistor is often needed on the base pin)
Comes in many different packages but you More Details on Wikipedia:
can read the part number off the package. http://tinyurl.com/eazkn
(P2N2222AG in this kit and find a datasheet online)
Diode What it Does: No. of Leads:
The electronic equivalent of a one way 2
valve. Allowing current to flow in one Things to watch out for:
direction but not the other. - Will only work in one direction (current will
flow if end with the line is connected to ground)
Identifying: More Details on Wikipedia:
Usually a cylinder with wires extending from http://tinyurl.com/ysz57b
either end. (and an off center line indicating polarity)

09
CIRC-01
Code (no need to type everything in just)
File > Examples > Digital > Blink
(example from the great arduino.cc site check it out for other ideas)
/* Blink
* Turns on an LED on for one second, then off for one second,
* repeatedly.
* Created 1 June 2005 By David Cuartielles
* http://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Blink
* based on an orginal by H. Barragan for the Wiring i/o board
*/
int ledPin = 13; // LED connected to digital pin 13
// The setup() method runs once, when the sketch starts
void setup() { // initialize the digital pin as an output:
pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT); }
// the loop() method runs over and over again,
// as long as the Arduino has power
void loop() {
digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH); // set the LED on
delay(1000); // wait for a second
digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW); // set the LED off
delay(1000); // wait for a second
}
Not Working? (3 things to try)
More, More, More:
More details, where to buy more parts, where to ask more questions.
http://tinyurl.com/cmn5nh
Making it Better
LED Not Lighting Up?
LEDs will only work in one
direction.
Try taking it out and twisting it
180 degrees.
(no need to worry, installing it
backwards does no permanent
harm)
Changing the pin: Control the Brightness:
The LED is connected to pin 13 but we can use any of Along with digital (on/off) control the Arduino can control
the Arduino’s pins. To change it take the wire plugged some pins in an analog (brightness) fashion. (more details on
into pin 13 and move it to a pin of your choice (from 0- this in later circuits). To play around with it.
13) (you can also use analog 0-5 analog 0 is 14...) Change the LED to pin 9: (also change the wire)
ledPin = 13; -> int ledPin = 9;
Then in the code change the line:
int ledPin = 13; -> int ledPin = newpin;Replace the code inside the { }'s of loop() with this:
Then upload the sketch: (ctrl-u) analogWrite(ledPin, new number);
Change the Blink Time: (new number) = any number between 0 and 255.
Unhappy with one second on one second off? 0 = off, 255 = on, in between = different brightness
Fading:
In the code change the lines:
digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH); We will use another included example program. To open go to.
delay(time on); //(seconds * 1000) File > Examples > Analog > Fading
digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW);
delay(time off); //(seconds * 1000) Then upload to your board and watch as the LED fades in and
then out.
Still No Success?
A broken circuit is no fun, send
us an e-mail and we will get
back to you as soon as we can.
08
CIRC-01
What We’re Doing:
.:Getting Started:.
.:(Blinking LED):.
LEDs (light emitting diodes) are used in all sorts of clever
things which is why we have included them in this kit. We will
start off with something very simple, turning one on and off,
repeatedly, producing a pleasant blinking effect. To get started
grab the parts listed below, pin the layout sheet to your breadboard and then plug everything in.
Once the circuit is assembled you'll need to upload the program. To do this plug the Arduino
board into your USB port. Then select the proper port in Tools > Serial Port > (the comm
port of your Arduino). Next upload the program by going to File > Upload to I/O Board
(ctrl+U). Finally bask in the glory and possibility that controlling lights offers.
If you are having trouble uploading, a full trouble shooting guide can be found here: http://tinyurl.com/89s2po
The Circuit:
Wire
10mm LED
x1
560 Ohm Resistor
Green-Blue-Brown
x1
2 Pin Header
x4
CIRC-01
Breadboard sheet
x1
Schematic:
Arduino
pin 13
LED
(light emitting diode)
resistor (560ohm)
(green-blue-brown)
gnd
(ground) (-)
Parts: Program Not Uploading
This happens sometimes,
the most likely cause is a
confused serial port, you
can change this in
tools>serial port>
.:download:.
breadboard layout sheet
http://tinyurl.com/qukhvc
.:view:.
assembling video
http://tinyurl.com/cwhx27
The Internet
longer lead
+

09
CIRC-01
Code (no need to type everything in just)
File > Examples > Digital > Blink
(example from the great arduino.cc site check it out for other ideas)
/* Blink
* Turns on an LED on for one second, then off for one second,
* repeatedly.
* Created 1 June 2005 By David Cuartielles
* http://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Blink
* based on an orginal by H. Barragan for the Wiring i/o board
*/
int ledPin = 13; // LED connected to digital pin 13
// The setup() method runs once, when the sketch starts
void setup() { // initialize the digital pin as an output:
pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT); }
// the loop() method runs over and over again,
// as long as the Arduino has power
void loop() {
digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH); // set the LED on
delay(1000); // wait for a second
digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW); // set the LED off
delay(1000); // wait for a second
}
Not Working? (3 things to try)
More, More, More:
More details, where to buy more parts, where to ask more questions.
http://tinyurl.com/cmn5nh
Making it Better
LED Not Lighting Up?
LEDs will only work in one
direction.
Try taking it out and twisting it
180 degrees.
(no need to worry, installing it
backwards does no permanent
harm)
Changing the pin: Control the Brightness:
The LED is connected to pin 13 but we can use any of Along with digital (on/off) control the Arduino can control
the Arduino’s pins. To change it take the wire plugged some pins in an analog (brightness) fashion. (more details on
into pin 13 and move it to a pin of your choice (from 0- this in later circuits). To play around with it.
13) (you can also use analog 0-5 analog 0 is 14...) Change the LED to pin 9: (also change the wire)
ledPin = 13; -> int ledPin = 9;
Then in the code change the line:
int ledPin = 13; -> int ledPin = newpin;Replace the code inside the { }'s of loop() with this:
Then upload the sketch: (ctrl-u) analogWrite(ledPin, new number);
Change the Blink Time: (new number) = any number between 0 and 255.
Unhappy with one second on one second off? 0 = off, 255 = on, in between = different brightness
Fading:
In the code change the lines:
digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH); We will use another included example program. To open go to.
delay(time on); //(seconds * 1000) File > Examples > Analog > Fading
digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW);
delay(time off); //(seconds * 1000) Then upload to your board and watch as the LED fades in and
then out.
Still No Success?
A broken circuit is no fun, send
us an e-mail and we will get
back to you as soon as we can.
08
CIRC-01
What We’re Doing:
.:Getting Started:.
.:(Blinking LED):.
LEDs (light emitting diodes) are used in all sorts of clever
things which is why we have included them in this kit. We will
start off with something very simple, turning one on and off,
repeatedly, producing a pleasant blinking effect. To get started
grab the parts listed below, pin the layout sheet to your breadboard and then plug everything in.
Once the circuit is assembled you'll need to upload the program. To do this plug the Arduino
board into your USB port. Then select the proper port in Tools > Serial Port > (the comm
port of your Arduino). Next upload the program by going to File > Upload to I/O Board
(ctrl+U). Finally bask in the glory and possibility that controlling lights offers.
If you are having trouble uploading, a full trouble shooting guide can be found here: http://tinyurl.com/89s2po
The Circuit:
Wire
10mm LED
x1
560 Ohm Resistor
Green-Blue-Brown
x1
2 Pin Header
x4
CIRC-01
Breadboard sheet
x1
Schematic:
Arduino
pin 13
LED
(light emitting diode)
resistor (560ohm)
(green-blue-brown)
gnd
(ground) (-)
Parts: Program Not Uploading
This happens sometimes,
the most likely cause is a
confused serial port, you
can change this in
tools>serial port>
.:download:.
breadboard layout sheet
http://tinyurl.com/qukhvc
.:view:.
assembling video
http://tinyurl.com/cwhx27
The Internet
longer lead
+

Wire
Operating out of sequence
With eight wires it's easy to cross
a couple. Double check that the
first LED is plugged into pin 2 and
each pin there after.
11
CIRC-02
Code (no need to type everything in just)
Download the Code from ( http://tinyurl.com/dkpxbn )
(and then copy the text and paste it into an empty Arduino Sketch)
//LED Pin Variables * will then turn them off
int ledPins[] = {2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9};
//An array to hold the void oneAfterAnotherNoLoop(){
//pin each LED is connected to int delayTime = 100;
/ / i . e . L E D # 0 i s c o n n e c t e d t o p i n 2 / / t h e t i m e ( i n m i l l i s e c o n d s ) t o p a u s e
//between LEDs
void setup() digitalWrite(ledPins[0], HIGH); //Turns on LED #0
{ //(connected to pin 2)
for(int i = 0; i < 8; i++){ delay(delayTime); //waits delayTime milliseconds
//this is a loop and will repeat eight times ...
pinMode(ledPins[i],OUTPUT); ...
//we use this to set LED pins to output digitalWrite(ledPins[7], HIGH); //Turns on LED #7
} //(connected to pin 9)
} delay(delayTime); //waits delayTime milliseconds
//Turns Each LED Off
void loop() // run over and over again digitalWrite(ledPins[7], LOW); //Turns off LED #7
{ delay(delayTime); //waits delayTime milliseconds
oneAfterAnotherNoLoop(); ...
//this will turn on each LED one by
//one then turn each oneoff -----more code in the downloadable version------
//oneAfterAnotherLoop();
//this does the same as onAfterAnotherNoLoop
//but with much less typing
//oneOnAtATime();
//inAndOut();
}
/*
* oneAfterAnotherNoLoop() - Will light one then
* delay for delayTime then light the next LED it
Not Working? (3 things to try)
More, More, More:
More details, where to buy more parts, where to ask more questions.
http://tinyurl.com/d2hrud
Making it Better
Some LEDs Fail to Light
It is easy to insert an LED
backwards. Check the LEDs
that aren't working and ensure
they the right way around.
Switching to Loops:
in the loop() function there are 4 lines. The last Extra Animations:
Tired of this animation? Then try the other two
three all start with a '//' this means the line is sample animations. Uncomment their lines and
treated as a comment (not run). To switch the upload the program to your board and enjoy the new
program to use loops change the void loop() light animations. (delete the slashes in front of row 3 and then 4)
code to:
//oneAfterAnotherNoLoop();
oneAfterAnotherLoop();
//oneOnAtATime(); Testing out your own Animations:
Jump into the included code and start changing
//inAndOut(); things. The main point is to turn an LED on use
Upload the program, and notice that nothing has digitalWrite(pinNumber, HIGH); then to
changed. You can take a look at the two turn it off use digitalWrite(pinNumber,
functions, each does the same thing, but use LOW); . Type away, regardless of what you change
different approaches (hint the second one uses a you won't break anything.
for loop)
10
CIRC-02
What We’re Doing:
.:8 LED Fun:.
.:Multiple LED’s:.
We have caused one LED to blink, now its time to up the
stakes. Lets connect eight. We'll also have an opportunity to
stretch the Arduino a bit by creating various lighting sequences.
This circuit is also a nice setup to experiment with writing your
own programs and getting a feel for how the Arduino works.
Along with controlling the LEDs we start looking into a few simple programming methods to
keep your programs small.
for() loops - used when you want to run a piece of code several times.
arrays[] - used to make managing variables easier (its a group of variables)
The Circuit:
5mm Green LED
x8
560 Ohm Resistor
Green-Blue-Brown
x8
2 Pin Header
x4
CIRC-02
Breadboard sheet
x1
Parts:
.:download:.
breadboard layout sheet
http://tinyurl.com/d4gmov
.:view:.
assembling video
http://tinyurl.com/coafoh
The Internet
Schematic:
LED
resistor
560ohm
gnd
pin 3
Starting Afresh
Its easy to accidentally
misplace a wire without
noticing. Pulling everything out
and starting with a fresh slate
is often easier than trying to
track down the problem.
pin 2 pin 4 pin 5
LED
resistor
560ohm
gnd
pin 7pin 6 pin 8 pin 9

Wire
Operating out of sequence
With eight wires it's easy to cross
a couple. Double check that the
first LED is plugged into pin 2 and
each pin there after.
11
CIRC-02
Code (no need to type everything in just)
Download the Code from ( http://tinyurl.com/dkpxbn )
(and then copy the text and paste it into an empty Arduino Sketch)
//LED Pin Variables * will then turn them off
int ledPins[] = {2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9};
//An array to hold the void oneAfterAnotherNoLoop(){
//pin each LED is connected to int delayTime = 100;
/ / i . e . L E D # 0 i s c o n n e c t e d t o p i n 2 / / t h e t i m e ( i n m i l l i s e c o n d s ) t o p a u s e
//between LEDs
void setup() digitalWrite(ledPins[0], HIGH); //Turns on LED #0
{ //(connected to pin 2)
for(int i = 0; i < 8; i++){ delay(delayTime); //waits delayTime milliseconds
//this is a loop and will repeat eight times ...
pinMode(ledPins[i],OUTPUT); ...
//we use this to set LED pins to output digitalWrite(ledPins[7], HIGH); //Turns on LED #7
} //(connected to pin 9)
} delay(delayTime); //waits delayTime milliseconds
//Turns Each LED Off
void loop() // run over and over again digitalWrite(ledPins[7], LOW); //Turns off LED #7
{ delay(delayTime); //waits delayTime milliseconds
oneAfterAnotherNoLoop(); ...
//this will turn on each LED one by
//one then turn each oneoff -----more code in the downloadable version------
//oneAfterAnotherLoop();
//this does the same as onAfterAnotherNoLoop
//but with much less typing
//oneOnAtATime();
//inAndOut();
}
/*
* oneAfterAnotherNoLoop() - Will light one then
* delay for delayTime then light the next LED it
Not Working? (3 things to try)
More, More, More:
More details, where to buy more parts, where to ask more questions.
http://tinyurl.com/d2hrud
Making it Better
Some LEDs Fail to Light
It is easy to insert an LED
backwards. Check the LEDs
that aren't working and ensure
they the right way around.
Switching to Loops:
in the loop() function there are 4 lines. The last Extra Animations:
Tired of this animation? Then try the other two
three all start with a '//' this means the line is sample animations. Uncomment their lines and
treated as a comment (not run). To switch the upload the program to your board and enjoy the new
program to use loops change the void loop() light animations. (delete the slashes in front of row 3 and then 4)
code to:
//oneAfterAnotherNoLoop();
oneAfterAnotherLoop();
//oneOnAtATime(); Testing out your own Animations:
Jump into the included code and start changing
//inAndOut(); things. The main point is to turn an LED on use
Upload the program, and notice that nothing has digitalWrite(pinNumber, HIGH); then to
changed. You can take a look at the two turn it off use digitalWrite(pinNumber,
functions, each does the same thing, but use LOW); . Type away, regardless of what you change
different approaches (hint the second one uses a you won't break anything.
for loop)
10
CIRC-02
What We’re Doing:
.:8 LED Fun:.
.:Multiple LED’s:.
We have caused one LED to blink, now its time to up the
stakes. Lets connect eight. We'll also have an opportunity to
stretch the Arduino a bit by creating various lighting sequences.
This circuit is also a nice setup to experiment with writing your
own programs and getting a feel for how the Arduino works.
Along with controlling the LEDs we start looking into a few simple programming methods to
keep your programs small.
for() loops - used when you want to run a piece of code several times.
arrays[] - used to make managing variables easier (its a group of variables)
The Circuit:
5mm Green LED
x8
560 Ohm Resistor
Green-Blue-Brown
x8
2 Pin Header
x4
CIRC-02
Breadboard sheet
x1
Parts:
.:download:.
breadboard layout sheet
http://tinyurl.com/d4gmov
.:view:.
assembling video
http://tinyurl.com/coafoh
The Internet
Schematic:
LED
resistor
560ohm
gnd
pin 3
Starting Afresh
Its easy to accidentally
misplace a wire without
noticing. Pulling everything out
and starting with a fresh slate
is often easier than trying to
track down the problem.
pin 2 pin 4 pin 5
LED
resistor
560ohm
gnd
pin 7pin 6 pin 8 pin 9

Still No Luck?
if you sourced your own motor,
double check that it will work
with 5 volts and that it does not
draw too much power.
13
CIRC-03
Code (no need to type everything in just)
Not Working? (3 things to try)
More, More, More:
More details, where to buy more parts, where to ask more questions.
http://tinyurl.com/d4wht7
Making it Better
Motor Not Spinning?
if you sourced your own
transistor, double check with
the data sheet that the pinout
is compatible with a P2N2222A
(many are reversed)
Controlling Speed: In the loop() section change it to this
// motorOnThenOff();
We played with the Arduino's ability to control the motorOnThenOffWithSpeed();
brightness of an LED earlier now we will use the same //motorAcceleration();
Then upload the programme. You can change the speeds by
feature to control the speed of our motor. The Arduino changing the variables onSpeed and offSpeed
does this using something called Pulse Width
Modulation (PWM). This relies on the Arduino's ability to Accelerating and decelerating:
operate really really fast. Rather than directly controlling Why stop at two speeds, why not accelerate and decelerate
the voltage coming from the pin the Arduino will switch the motor. To do this simply change the loop() code to read
// motorOnThenOff();
the pin on and off very quickly. In the computer world // motorOnThenOffWithSpeed();
this is going from 0 to 5 volts many times a second, but motorAcceleration();
in the human world we see it as a voltage. For example Then upload the program and watch as your motor slowly
if the Arduino is PWM'ing at 50% we see the light accelerates up to full speed then slows down again. If you
dimmed 50% because our eyes are not quick enough to would like to change the speed of acceleration change the
see it flashing on and off. The same feature works with variable delayTime (larger means a longer acceleration time)
transistors. Don't believe me? Try it out.
Still Not Working?
Sometimes the Arduino board
will disconnect from the
computer. Try un-plugging and
then re-plugging it into your
USB port.
int motorPin = 9; //pin the motor is connected to
void setup() //runs once void motorOnThenOffWithSpeed(){
{ int onSpeed = 200;// a number between
pinMode(motorPin, OUTPUT); //0 (stopped) and 255 (full speed)
} int onTime = 2500;
int offSpeed = 50;// a number between
void loop() // run over and over again //0 (stopped) and 255 (full speed)
{ int offTime = 1000;
motorOnThenOff(); analogWrite(motorPin, onSpeed);
//motorOnThenOffWithSpeed(); // turns the motor On
//motorAcceleration(); delay(onTime); // waits for onTime milliseconds
} analogWrite(motorPin, offSpeed);
// turns the motor Off
/* delay(offTime); // waits for offTime milliseconds
* motorOnThenOff() - turns motor on then off }
* (notice this code is identical to the code we void motorAcceleration(){
used for int delayTime = 50; //time between each speed step
* the blinking LED) for(int i = 0; i < 256; i++){
*/ //goes through each speed from 0 to 255
void motorOnThenOff(){ analogWrite(motorPin, i); //sets the new speed
int onTime = 2500; //on time delay(delayTime);// waits for delayTime milliseconds
int offTime = 1000; //off time }
digitalWrite(motorPin, HIGH); for(int i = 255; i >= 0; i--){
// turns the motor On //goes through each speed from 255 to 0
delay(onTime); // waits for onTime milliseconds analogWrite(motorPin, i); //sets the new speed
digitalWrite(motorPin, LOW); delay(delayTime);//waits for delayTime milliseconds
// turns the motor Off }
delay(offTime);// waits for offTime milliseconds }
}
Download the Code from ( http://tinyurl.com/dagyrb )
(then simply copy the text and paste it into an empty Arduino Sketch)
12
CIRC-03
What We’re Doing:
.:Spin Motor Spin:.
.:Transistor & Motor:.
The Arduino's pins are great for directly controlling small electric
items like LEDs. However, when dealing with larger items (like a
toy motor or washing machine), an external transistor is required.
A transistor is incredibly useful. It switches a lot of current using a
much smaller current. A transistor has 3 pins. For a negative type
(NPN) transistor you connect your load to collector and the emitter to ground. Then when a small
current flows from base to the emitter a current will flow through the transistor and your motor will
spin (this happens when we set our Arduino pin HIGH). There are literally thousands of different
types of transistors, allowing every situation to be perfectly matched. We have chosen a P2N2222AG
a rather common general purpose transistor. The important factors in our case are that its maximum
voltage (40 v) and its maximum current (600 milliamp) are both high enough for our toy motor (full
details can be found on its datasheet http://tinyurl.com/o2cm93 )
note: the transistor we use has a in order Base Collector Emitter pinout (differing from some other popular transistors)
(The 1N4001 diode is acting as a flyback diode for details on why its there visit: http://tinyurl.com/b559mx)
The Circuit:
Wire
Transistor
P2N2222AG (TO92)
x1
2.2k Ohm Resistor
Red-Red-Red
x1
2 Pin Header
x4
CIRC-03
Breadboard sheet
x1
Parts:
Toy Motor
x1
Schematic:
Arduino
pin 9
resistor
(2.2kohm)
gnd
(ground) (-)
Collector Emitter
Base
Motor
+5 volts
Transistor
P2N2222AG
the transistor will have
P2N2222AG printed on it
(some variations will have
the pin assignment reversed)
Diode
(1N4001)
x1
Diode
.:download:.
breadboard layout sheet
http://tinyurl.com/d6jv63
.:view:.
assembling video
http://tinyurl.com/djapjg
The Internet
.:NOTE: if your arduino is resetting you need to install the optional capacitor:.

Still No Luck?
if you sourced your own motor,
double check that it will work
with 5 volts and that it does not
draw too much power.
13
CIRC-03
Code (no need to type everything in just)
Not Working? (3 things to try)
More, More, More:
More details, where to buy more parts, where to ask more questions.
http://tinyurl.com/d4wht7
Making it Better
Motor Not Spinning?
if you sourced your own
transistor, double check with
the data sheet that the pinout
is compatible with a P2N2222A
(many are reversed)
Controlling Speed: In the loop() section change it to this
// motorOnThenOff();
We played with the Arduino's ability to control the motorOnThenOffWithSpeed();
brightness of an LED earlier now we will use the same //motorAcceleration();
Then upload the programme. You can change the speeds by
feature to control the speed of our motor. The Arduino changing the variables onSpeed and offSpeed
does this using something called Pulse Width
Modulation (PWM). This relies on the Arduino's ability to Accelerating and decelerating:
operate really really fast. Rather than directly controlling Why stop at two speeds, why not accelerate and decelerate
the voltage coming from the pin the Arduino will switch the motor. To do this simply change the loop() code to read
// motorOnThenOff();
the pin on and off very quickly. In the computer world // motorOnThenOffWithSpeed();
this is going from 0 to 5 volts many times a second, but motorAcceleration();
in the human world we see it as a voltage. For example Then upload the program and watch as your motor slowly
if the Arduino is PWM'ing at 50% we see the light accelerates up to full speed then slows down again. If you
dimmed 50% because our eyes are not quick enough to would like to change the speed of acceleration change the
see it flashing on and off. The same feature works with variable delayTime (larger means a longer acceleration time)
transistors. Don't believe me? Try it out.
Still Not Working?
Sometimes the Arduino board
will disconnect from the
computer. Try un-plugging and
then re-plugging it into your
USB port.
int motorPin = 9; //pin the motor is connected to
void setup() //runs once void motorOnThenOffWithSpeed(){
{ int onSpeed = 200;// a number between
pinMode(motorPin, OUTPUT); //0 (stopped) and 255 (full speed)
} int onTime = 2500;
int offSpeed = 50;// a number between
void loop() // run over and over again //0 (stopped) and 255 (full speed)
{ int offTime = 1000;
motorOnThenOff(); analogWrite(motorPin, onSpeed);
//motorOnThenOffWithSpeed(); // turns the motor On
//motorAcceleration(); delay(onTime); // waits for onTime milliseconds
} analogWrite(motorPin, offSpeed);
// turns the motor Off
/* delay(offTime); // waits for offTime milliseconds
* motorOnThenOff() - turns motor on then off }
* (notice this code is identical to the code we void motorAcceleration(){
used for int delayTime = 50; //time between each speed step
* the blinking LED) for(int i = 0; i < 256; i++){
*/ //goes through each speed from 0 to 255
void motorOnThenOff(){ analogWrite(motorPin, i); //sets the new speed
int onTime = 2500; //on time delay(delayTime);// waits for delayTime milliseconds
int offTime = 1000; //off time }
digitalWrite(motorPin, HIGH); for(int i = 255; i >= 0; i--){
// turns the motor On //goes through each speed from 255 to 0
delay(onTime); // waits for onTime milliseconds analogWrite(motorPin, i); //sets the new speed
digitalWrite(motorPin, LOW); delay(delayTime);//waits for delayTime milliseconds
// turns the motor Off }
delay(offTime);// waits for offTime milliseconds }
}
Download the Code from ( http://tinyurl.com/dagyrb )
(then simply copy the text and paste it into an empty Arduino Sketch)
12
CIRC-03
What We’re Doing:
.:Spin Motor Spin:.
.:Transistor & Motor:.
The Arduino's pins are great for directly controlling small electric
items like LEDs. However, when dealing with larger items (like a
toy motor or washing machine), an external transistor is required.
A transistor is incredibly useful. It switches a lot of current using a
much smaller current. A transistor has 3 pins. For a negative type
(NPN) transistor you connect your load to collector and the emitter to ground. Then when a small
current flows from base to the emitter a current will flow through the transistor and your motor will
spin (this happens when we set our Arduino pin HIGH). There are literally thousands of different
types of transistors, allowing every situation to be perfectly matched. We have chosen a P2N2222AG
a rather common general purpose transistor. The important factors in our case are that its maximum
voltage (40 v) and its maximum current (600 milliamp) are both high enough for our toy motor (full
details can be found on its datasheet http://tinyurl.com/o2cm93 )
note: the transistor we use has a in order Base Collector Emitter pinout (differing from some other popular transistors)
(The 1N4001 diode is acting as a flyback diode for details on why its there visit: http://tinyurl.com/b559mx)
The Circuit:
Wire
Transistor
P2N2222AG (TO92)
x1
2.2k Ohm Resistor
Red-Red-Red
x1
2 Pin Header
x4
CIRC-03
Breadboard sheet
x1
Parts:
Toy Motor
x1
Schematic:
Arduino
pin 9
resistor
(2.2kohm)
gnd
(ground) (-)
Collector Emitter
Base
Motor
+5 volts
Transistor
P2N2222AG
the transistor will have
P2N2222AG printed on it
(some variations will have
the pin assignment reversed)
Diode
(1N4001)
x1
Diode
.:download:.
breadboard layout sheet
http://tinyurl.com/d6jv63
.:view:.
assembling video
http://tinyurl.com/djapjg
The Internet
.:NOTE: if your arduino is resetting you need to install the optional capacitor:.

Still not Working
A mistake we made a time or
two was simply forgetting to
connect the power (red and
brown wires) to +5 volts and
ground.
15
CIRC-04
Code (no need to type everything in just)
File > Examples > Servo > Sweep
(example from the great arduino.cc site check it out for other great ideas)
Not Working? (3 things to try)
More, More, More:
More details, where to buy more parts, where to ask more questions.
http://tinyurl.com/djwlop
Making it Better
Servo Not Twisting?
Even with colored wires it is still
shockingly easy to plug a servo
in backwards. This might be the
case.
Potentiometer Control: void loop() {
We have yet to experiment with inputs but if you would like to int pulseTime = 2100; //(the number of microseconds
//to pause for (1500 90 degrees
read ahead, there is an example program File > Examples > // 900 0 degrees 2100 180 degrees)
digitalWrite(servoPin, HIGH);
Servo > Knob. This uses a potentiometer (CIRC08) to control delayMicroseconds(pulseTime);
digitalWrite(servoPin, LOW);
the servo. You can find instructions online here: delay(25);
http://tinyurl.com/dymsk2 }
Great Ideas:
Self Timing: Servos can be used to do all sorts of great things, here are a few of
While it is easy to control a servo using the Arduino's included our favorites.
library sometimes it is fun to figure out how to program
something yourself. Try it. We're controlling the pulse directly Xmas Hit Counter
so you could use this method to control servos on any of the http://tinyurl.com/37djhq
Arduino's 20 available pins (you need to highly optimize this
code before doing that). Open Source Robotic Arm (uses a servo controller as well as the Arduino)
http://tinyurl.com/ckm3wd
int servoPin = 9;
void setup(){ Servo Walker
pinMode(servoPin,OUTPUT); http://tinyurl.com/da5jfe
}
// Sweep
// by BARRAGAN <http://barraganstudio.com>
#include <Servo.h>
Servo myservo; // create servo object to control a servo
int pos = 0; // variable to store the servo position
void setup() {
myservo.attach(9); // attaches the servo on pin 9 to the servo object
}
void loop() {
for(pos = 0; pos < 180; pos += 1) // goes from 0 degrees to 180 degrees
{ // in steps of 1 degree
myservo.write(pos); // tell servo to go to position in variable 'pos'
delay(15); // waits 15ms for the servo to reach the position
}
for(pos = 180; pos>=1; pos-=1) // goes from 180 degrees to 0 degrees
{
myservo.write(pos); // tell servo to go to position in variable 'pos'
delay(15); // waits 15ms for the servo to reach the position
}
}
14
CIRC-04
What We’re Doing:
.:A Single Servo:.
.:Servos:.
Spinning a motor is good fun but when it comes to projects
where motion control is required they tend to leave us wanting
more. The answer? Hobby servos. They are mass produced,
widely available and cost anything from a couple of dollars to
hundreds. Inside is a small gearbox (to make the movement more powerful) and some
electronics (to make it easier to control). A standard servo is positionable from 0 to 180
degrees. Positioning is controlled through a timed pulse, between 1.25 milliseconds (0 degrees)
and 1.75 milliseconds (180 degrees) (1.5 milliseconds for 90 degrees). Timing varies between
manufacturer. If the pulse is sent every 25-50 milliseconds the servo will run smoothly. One of
the great features of the Arduino is it has a software library that allows you to control two
servos (connected to pin 9 or 10) using a single line of code.
The Circuit:
Wire
3 Pin Header
x1
Mini Servo
x1
2 Pin Header
x4
CIRC-04
Breadboard sheet
x1
Parts:
Schematic:
Arduino
pin 9
gnd
(ground) (-)
gnd
(black/
brown)
signal
(orange) +5v
(red)
Mini Servo
+5 volts
(5V)
Fits and Starts
If the servo begins moving then
twitches, and there's a flashing
light on your Arduino board, the
power supply you are using is
not quite up to the challenge.
Using a 9V battery instead
should solve this problem.
.:download:.
breadboard layout sheet
http://tinyurl.com/db5fcm
.:view:.
assembling video
http://tinyurl.com/d52954
The Internet

Still not Working
A mistake we made a time or
two was simply forgetting to
connect the power (red and
brown wires) to +5 volts and
ground.
15
CIRC-04
Code (no need to type everything in just)
File > Examples > Servo > Sweep
(example from the great arduino.cc site check it out for other great ideas)
Not Working? (3 things to try)
More, More, More:
More details, where to buy more parts, where to ask more questions.
http://tinyurl.com/djwlop
Making it Better
Servo Not Twisting?
Even with colored wires it is still
shockingly easy to plug a servo
in backwards. This might be the
case.
Potentiometer Control: void loop() {
We have yet to experiment with inputs but if you would like to int pulseTime = 2100; //(the number of microseconds
//to pause for (1500 90 degrees
read ahead, there is an example program File > Examples > // 900 0 degrees 2100 180 degrees)
digitalWrite(servoPin, HIGH);
Servo > Knob. This uses a potentiometer (CIRC08) to control delayMicroseconds(pulseTime);
digitalWrite(servoPin, LOW);
the servo. You can find instructions online here: delay(25);
http://tinyurl.com/dymsk2 }
Great Ideas:
Self Timing: Servos can be used to do all sorts of great things, here are a few of
While it is easy to control a servo using the Arduino's included our favorites.
library sometimes it is fun to figure out how to program
something yourself. Try it. We're controlling the pulse directly Xmas Hit Counter
so you could use this method to control servos on any of the http://tinyurl.com/37djhq
Arduino's 20 available pins (you need to highly optimize this
code before doing that). Open Source Robotic Arm (uses a servo controller as well as the Arduino)
http://tinyurl.com/ckm3wd
int servoPin = 9;
void setup(){ Servo Walker
pinMode(servoPin,OUTPUT); http://tinyurl.com/da5jfe
}
// Sweep
// by BARRAGAN <http://barraganstudio.com>
#include <Servo.h>
Servo myservo; // create servo object to control a servo
int pos = 0; // variable to store the servo position
void setup() {
myservo.attach(9); // attaches the servo on pin 9 to the servo object
}
void loop() {
for(pos = 0; pos < 180; pos += 1) // goes from 0 degrees to 180 degrees
{ // in steps of 1 degree
myservo.write(pos); // tell servo to go to position in variable 'pos'
delay(15); // waits 15ms for the servo to reach the position
}
for(pos = 180; pos>=1; pos-=1) // goes from 180 degrees to 0 degrees
{
myservo.write(pos); // tell servo to go to position in variable 'pos'
delay(15); // waits 15ms for the servo to reach the position
}
}
14
CIRC-04
What We’re Doing:
.:A Single Servo:.
.:Servos:.
Spinning a motor is good fun but when it comes to projects
where motion control is required they tend to leave us wanting
more. The answer? Hobby servos. They are mass produced,
widely available and cost anything from a couple of dollars to
hundreds. Inside is a small gearbox (to make the movement more powerful) and some
electronics (to make it easier to control). A standard servo is positionable from 0 to 180
degrees. Positioning is controlled through a timed pulse, between 1.25 milliseconds (0 degrees)
and 1.75 milliseconds (180 degrees) (1.5 milliseconds for 90 degrees). Timing varies between
manufacturer. If the pulse is sent every 25-50 milliseconds the servo will run smoothly. One of
the great features of the Arduino is it has a software library that allows you to control two
servos (connected to pin 9 or 10) using a single line of code.
The Circuit:
Wire
3 Pin Header
x1
Mini Servo
x1
2 Pin Header
x4
CIRC-04
Breadboard sheet
x1
Parts:
Schematic:
Arduino
pin 9
gnd
(ground) (-)
gnd
(black/
brown)
signal
(orange) +5v
(red)
Mini Servo
+5 volts
(5V)
Fits and Starts
If the servo begins moving then
twitches, and there's a flashing
light on your Arduino board, the
power supply you are using is
not quite up to the challenge.
Using a 9V battery instead
should solve this problem.
.:download:.
breadboard layout sheet
http://tinyurl.com/db5fcm
.:view:.
assembling video
http://tinyurl.com/d52954
The Internet

Not Quite Working
Sorry to sound like a broken
record but it is probably
something as simple as a
crossed wire.
17
CIRC-05
Code (no need to type everything in just)
Not Working? (3 things to try)
More, More, More:
More details, where to buy more parts, where to ask more questions.
http://tinyurl.com/dkjno3
Making it Better
The Arduino’s Power
LED goes out
This happened to us a couple
of times, it happens when the
chip is inserted backwards. If
you fix it quickly nothing will
break.
milliseconds to delay
Doing it the hard way: //between LED updates
An Arduino makes rather complex actions very easy, shifting out data for(int i = 0; i < 8; i++){
is one of these cases. However one of the nice features of an changeLED(i,ON);
delay(delayTime);
Arduino is you can make things as easy or difficult as you like. Lets }
for(int i = 0; i < 8; i++){
try an example of this. In your loop switch the line. changeLED(i,OFF);
updateLEDs(i) -> updateLEDsLong(i); delay(delayTime);
Upload the program and notice nothing has changed. If you look at }
the code you can see how we are communicating with the chip one
bit at a time. (for more details http://tinyurl.com/3augzd ) And upload this will cause the lights to light up one after another and then
off in a similar manner. Check the code and wikipedia to see how it works,
Controlling Individual LEDs: or shoot us an e-mail if you have questions.
Time to start controlling the LEDs in a similar method as we did in
CIRC02. As the eight LED states are stored in one byte (an 8 bit More Animations:
value) for details on how this works try http://tinyurl.com/6vz53. An Now things get more interesting. If you look back to the code from CIRC02
Arduino is very good at manipulating bits and there are an entire set (8 LED Fun) you see we change the LEDs using digitalWrite(led, state), this
of operators that help us out. Details on bitwise maths ( is the same format as the routine we wrote changeLED(led, state). You can
http://tinyurl.com/br8dd ) use the animations you wrote for CIRC02 by copying the code into this
sketch and changing all the digitalWrite()'s to changeLED()'s. Powerful?
Our implementation. Very. (you'll also need to change a few other things but follow the compile
Replace the loop() code with
int delayTime = 100; //the number of errors and it works itself out)
Frustration?
Shoot us an e-mail, this circuit
is both simple and complex at
the same time. We want to
hear about problems you have
so we can address them in
future editions.
Download the Code from ( http://tinyurl.com/cv4fjt )
(copy the text and paste it into an empty Arduino Sketch)
//Pin Definitions
//The 74HC595 uses a protocol called SPI
//Which has three pins
int data = 2; digitalWrite(latch, LOW);
int clock = 3;
int latch = 4; //Pulls the chips latch low
shiftOut(data, clock, MSBFIRST, value);
void setup() //runs once //Shifts out 8 bits to the shift register
{
pinMode(data, OUTPUT);
pinMode(clock, OUTPUT); digitalWrite(latch, HIGH);
pinMode(latch, OUTPUT); } //Pulls the latch high displaying the data
}
void loop() // run over and over again
{ ---------- More Code Online ----------
int delayTime = 100;
//delay between LED updates
for(int i = 0; i < 256; i++){
updateLEDs(i);
delay(delayTime); }
}
/*
* updateLEDs() - sends the LED states set
* in value to the 74HC595 sequence
*/
void updateLEDs(int value){
16
CIRC-05
What We’re Doing:
.:8 More LEDs:.
.:74HC595 Shift Register:.
Time to start playing with chips. Or integrated circuits (ICs) as they like to be
called. The external packaging of a chip can be very deceptive for example the
chip on the Arduino board (a micro controller) and the one we will use in this
circuit (a shift register) look very similar but are in fact rather different, for
example the price of the Atmega chip on the arduino board is a few dollars while the
74hc595 is a couple dozen cents. It's a good introductory chip, and once your comfortable playing around with it and its
datasheet (available online http://tinyurl.com/pr42xe ) the world of chips will be your oyster. The shift register (also called
a serial to parallel converter), will give you an additional 8 outputs (to control LEDs and the like) using only three arduino
pins. They can also be linked together to give you a nearly unlimited number of outputs using the same four pins. To use
it you “clock in” the data and then latch lock it in (latch it). To do this you set the data pin to either HIGH or LOW, pulse
the clock, then set the data pin again and pulse the clock repeating until you have shifted out 8 bits of data. Then you
pulse the latch and the 8 bits are transferred to the shift registers pins. It sounds complicated but is really simple once
you get the hang of it.
(for a more in depth look at how a shift register works visit: http://tinyurl.com/56uvv7 )
The Circuit:
Wire
Shift Register
74HC595
x1
560 Ohm Resistor
Green-Blue-Brown
x8
2 Pin Header
x4
CIRC-05
Breadboard sheet
x1
Parts:
Red LED
x8
Schematic:
LED
resistor
(560ohm)
gnd
(ground) (-)
pin
4pin
3pin
2
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
data
clock
latch
+5V
gnd
74HC595
+5 volts
There is a half moon
cutout, this goes at the top
.:download:.
breadboard layout sheet
http://tinyurl.com/d8xepz.
.:view:.
assembling video
http://tinyurl.com/c2enkv
The Internet

Not Quite Working
Sorry to sound like a broken
record but it is probably
something as simple as a
crossed wire.
17
CIRC-05
Code (no need to type everything in just)
Not Working? (3 things to try)
More, More, More:
More details, where to buy more parts, where to ask more questions.
http://tinyurl.com/dkjno3
Making it Better
The Arduino’s Power
LED goes out
This happened to us a couple
of times, it happens when the
chip is inserted backwards. If
you fix it quickly nothing will
break.
milliseconds to delay
Doing it the hard way: //between LED updates
An Arduino makes rather complex actions very easy, shifting out data for(int i = 0; i < 8; i++){
is one of these cases. However one of the nice features of an changeLED(i,ON);
delay(delayTime);
Arduino is you can make things as easy or difficult as you like. Lets }
for(int i = 0; i < 8; i++){
try an example of this. In your loop switch the line. changeLED(i,OFF);
updateLEDs(i) -> updateLEDsLong(i); delay(delayTime);
Upload the program and notice nothing has changed. If you look at }
the code you can see how we are communicating with the chip one
bit at a time. (for more details http://tinyurl.com/3augzd ) And upload this will cause the lights to light up one after another and then
off in a similar manner. Check the code and wikipedia to see how it works,
Controlling Individual LEDs: or shoot us an e-mail if you have questions.
Time to start controlling the LEDs in a similar method as we did in
CIRC02. As the eight LED states are stored in one byte (an 8 bit More Animations:
value) for details on how this works try http://tinyurl.com/6vz53. An Now things get more interesting. If you look back to the code from CIRC02
Arduino is very good at manipulating bits and there are an entire set (8 LED Fun) you see we change the LEDs using digitalWrite(led, state), this
of operators that help us out. Details on bitwise maths ( is the same format as the routine we wrote changeLED(led, state). You can
http://tinyurl.com/br8dd ) use the animations you wrote for CIRC02 by copying the code into this
sketch and changing all the digitalWrite()'s to changeLED()'s. Powerful?
Our implementation. Very. (you'll also need to change a few other things but follow the compile
Replace the loop() code with
int delayTime = 100; //the number of errors and it works itself out)
Frustration?
Shoot us an e-mail, this circuit
is both simple and complex at
the same time. We want to
hear about problems you have
so we can address them in
future editions.
Download the Code from ( http://tinyurl.com/cv4fjt )
(copy the text and paste it into an empty Arduino Sketch)
//Pin Definitions
//The 74HC595 uses a protocol called SPI
//Which has three pins
int data = 2; digitalWrite(latch, LOW);
int clock = 3;
int latch = 4; //Pulls the chips latch low
shiftOut(data, clock, MSBFIRST, value);
void setup() //runs once //Shifts out 8 bits to the shift register
{
pinMode(data, OUTPUT);
pinMode(clock, OUTPUT); digitalWrite(latch, HIGH);
pinMode(latch, OUTPUT); } //Pulls the latch high displaying the data
}
void loop() // run over and over again
{ ---------- More Code Online ----------
int delayTime = 100;
//delay between LED updates
for(int i = 0; i < 256; i++){
updateLEDs(i);
delay(delayTime); }
}
/*
* updateLEDs() - sends the LED states set
* in value to the 74HC595 sequence
*/
void updateLEDs(int value){
16
CIRC-05
What We’re Doing:
.:8 More LEDs:.
.:74HC595 Shift Register:.
Time to start playing with chips. Or integrated circuits (ICs) as they like to be
called. The external packaging of a chip can be very deceptive for example the
chip on the Arduino board (a micro controller) and the one we will use in this
circuit (a shift register) look very similar but are in fact rather different, for
example the price of the Atmega chip on the arduino board is a few dollars while the
74hc595 is a couple dozen cents. It's a good introductory chip, and once your comfortable playing around with it and its
datasheet (available online http://tinyurl.com/pr42xe ) the world of chips will be your oyster. The shift register (also called
a serial to parallel converter), will give you an additional 8 outputs (to control LEDs and the like) using only three arduino
pins. They can also be linked together to give you a nearly unlimited number of outputs using the same four pins. To use
it you “clock in” the data and then latch lock it in (latch it). To do this you set the data pin to either HIGH or LOW, pulse
the clock, then set the data pin again and pulse the clock repeating until you have shifted out 8 bits of data. Then you
pulse the latch and the 8 bits are transferred to the shift registers pins. It sounds complicated but is really simple once
you get the hang of it.
(for a more in depth look at how a shift register works visit: http://tinyurl.com/56uvv7 )
The Circuit:
Wire
Shift Register
74HC595
x1
560 Ohm Resistor
Green-Blue-Brown
x8
2 Pin Header
x4
CIRC-05
Breadboard sheet
x1
Parts:
Red LED
x8
Schematic:
LED
resistor
(560ohm)
gnd
(ground) (-)
pin
4pin
3pin
2
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
data
clock
latch
+5V
gnd
74HC595
+5 volts
There is a half moon
cutout, this goes at the top
.:download:.
breadboard layout sheet
http://tinyurl.com/d8xepz.
.:view:.
assembling video
http://tinyurl.com/c2enkv
The Internet

Arduino
pin 9
gnd
(ground) (-)
Piezo
Element
19
CIRC-06
18
CIRC-06
What We’re Doing:
.:Music:.
.:Piezo Elements:.
To this point we have controlled light, motion, and
electrons, Lets tackle sound next. But sound is an
analog phenomena, how will our digital Arduino cope?
We will once again rely on its incredible speed which will let
it mimic analog behavior. To do this, we will attach a piezo element to one of the
Arduino's digital pins. A piezo element makes a clicking sound each time it is pulsed
with current. If we pulse it at the right frequency (for example 440 times a second
to make the note middle A) these clicks will run together to produce notes. Lets get
to experimenting with it and get your Arduino playing 'Twinkle Twinkle Little Star'.
Can't Think While the
Melody is Playing.
Just pull up the piezo element
whilst you think, upload your
program then plug it back in.
Code (no need to type everything in just)
Not Working? (3 things to try)
More, More, More:
More details, where to buy more parts, where to ask more questions.
http://tinyurl.com/cpf6so
Making it Better
No Sound
Given the size and shape of the
piezo element it is easy to miss
the right holes on the
breadboard. Try double
checking its placement.
char names[] = { 'c', 'd', 'e', 'f', 'g', 'a', 'b',
Playing with the speed: 'C' };
The timing for each note is calculated based on variables, int tones[] = { 1915, 1700, 1519, 1432, 1275, 1136,
as such we can tweak the sound of each note or the 1014, 956 };
timing. To change the speed of the melody you need to Composing your own melodies:
The program is pre-set to play 'Twinkle Twinkle Little Star'
change only one line.
int tempo = 300; ---> int tempo = (new #) however the way it is programmed makes changing the song
Change it to a larger number to slow the melody down, easy. Each song is defined in one int and two arrays, the int
or a smaller number to speed it up. length defines the number of notes, the first array notes[]
Tuning the notes: defines each note, and the second beats[] defines how long
If you are worried about the notes being a little out of each note is played. Some Examples:
tune this can be fixed as well. The notes have been Twinkle Twinkle Little Star
calculated based on a formula in the comment block at int length = 15;
char notes[] = "ccggaagffeeddc ";
the top of the program. But to tune individual notes just int beats[] = { 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 1, 1, 1, 1,
adjust their values in the tones[] array up or down 1, 1, 2, 4 };
Happy Birthday (first line)
until they sound right. (each note is matched by its name int length = 13;
char notes[] = "ccdcfeccdcgf ";
in the names[] (array ie. c = 1915 ) int beats[] = {1,1,1,1,1,2,1,1,1,1,1,2,4};
Tired of Twinkle Twinkle
Little Star?
The code is written so you can
easily add your own songs,
check out the code below to
get started.
/* Melody
* (cleft) 2005 D. Cuartielles for K3
*
* This example uses a piezo speaker to play melodies. It sends digitalWrite(speakerPin, LOW);
* a square wave of the appropriate frequency to the piezo, delayMicroseconds(tone);
* generating the corresponding tone. }
*}
* The calculation of the tones is made following the
* mathematical operation: void playNote(char note, int duration) {
* char names[] = { 'c', 'd', 'e', 'f', 'g', 'a', 'b', 'C' };
* timeHigh = period / 2 = 1 / (2 * toneFrequency) int tones[] = { 1915, 1700, 1519, 1432, 1275, 1136, 1014, 956
* };
* where the different tones are described as in the table: // play the tone corresponding to the note name
* for (int i = 0; i < 8; i++) {
* note frequency period timeHigh if (names[i] == note) {
* c 261 Hz 3830 1915 playTone(tones[i], duration);
* d 294 Hz 3400 1700 }
* e 329 Hz 3038 1519 }
* f 349 Hz 2864 1432 }
* g 392 Hz 2550 1275
* a 440 Hz 2272 1136 void setup() {
* b 493 Hz 2028 1014 pinMode(speakerPin, OUTPUT);
* C 523 Hz 1912 956 }
*
* http://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Melody void loop() {
*/ for (int i = 0; i < length; i++) {
if (notes[i] == ' ') {
int speakerPin = 9; delay(beats[i] * tempo); // rest
} else {
int length = 15; // the number of notes playNote(notes[i], beats[i] * tempo);
char notes[] = "ccggaagffeeddc "; // a space represents a rest }
int beats[] = { 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 4 }; // pause between notes
int tempo = 300; delay(tempo / 2); }
}
void playTone(int tone, int duration) {
for (long i = 0; i < duration * 1000L; i += tone * 2) {
digitalWrite(speakerPin, HIGH);
delayMicroseconds(tone);
The Circuit:
Wire
Piezo Element
x1
2 Pin Header
x4
CIRC-06
Breadboard sheet
x1
Parts:
Schematic:
File > Examples > Digital > Melody
(example from the great arduino.cc site check it out for other great ideas)
.:download:.
breadboard layout sheet
http://tinyurl.com/c94aml
.:view:.
assembling video
http://tinyurl.com/mnh33o
The Internet
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