KEENCUT STEELTRAK ST250 User manual

116655
221100
THE WORLD’S FINEST CUTTING MACHINES
GINSTRUCTION MANUAL
Single language version and parts diagrams can be
down loaded from www.keencut.co.uk
KC-ST/7298 JAN 13

1 Contents 1
2 Packing list
2.1 Unpacking your machine
3 Assembly
3.1 Preparing the Legs
3.2 Preparing to fit the Squaring arm
3.3 Fitting the Squaring arm
3.4 Fitting the Pull Bar (210 only)
3.5 Fitting the Wall mounting bracket
3.6 Fitting the Free standing kit (165 only)
3.7 Fitting the Free standing kit (210 only)
3.8 Fitting the Back panels
3.9 Fitting the Handle
4 Squaring
4.1 Checking your machine for squareness
4.2 Adjusting the squareness
5Calibration
5.1 Calibrating the Vertical square
5.2 Calibrating the Squaring arm scale
5.3 Fitting the Sight-line strip
6Operation
6.1 Using the Clamp
6.2 The Cutting Head in General
6.2.1The Cutting Head in General
6.2.2How to use the Pull Bar System
6.3 The Cutting Blade
6.3.1The Cutting Blade
6.3.2Changing the Cutting Blade
6.4 The Scoring Blade
6.5 Glass Cutting (Optional)
6.6 The Twin Wheel (TW) Cutter
6.61Changing the Twin Wheel (TW) Cutter

1. Main body
2. Squaring arm
3. Left Back Support
4. Right Back Support
5. Long Back Support Screws
6. Short Back Support Screws
7. Back Support Fixing Block
8. Left Production Stop
9. Right Production Stop
10. Wall mounting bracket
11. M8 Screws and Washers
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2.1 Unpacking your Machine 2.1
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12. Spare blades
13. Main Handle
14. Hexagon wrenches 2.5, 3.0, 4.0, 5.0, 6.0mm
15. Spare Sight-line Strip (165 – 1 off, 210 – 2 off)
16. Vertical Scale
17. Optional Free Standing Kit
(Supplied separately – for 165 version only)
18. Pull Bar (210 only)
YOU WILL ALSO NEED:
17mm Spanner x 2
13mm Spanner x 1
210 only

NOTE: When taking the machine from the box ensure at least two people are lifting.
Remember to bend your knees and keep your back straight - this machine is heavy.
1. LEFT LEG - Slacken the bottom two screws and extend the telescopic leg to the
desired length. (This can be readjusted later). Tighten the screws to clamp
in position.
2. RIGHT LEG - Slacken the top and bottom screws in the Squaring Adjustment Block,
extend the telescopic leg by the same amount as the left leg and re-tighten the
screws.
3. Swing both legs out as far as they will go.
The first stages of assembly are carried out with the machine laying on the floor.
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3.1 Assembly 3.1
Preparing the Legs
SteelTraK 210 only

3.2 Assembly 3.2
Preparing to fit the Squaring Arm
1. Remove the following:
A. One screw and spacer from each leg.
B. Two sets of hexagon headed bolts, washers and nuts from the Main Body
2. Lay the Squaring Arm flat adjacent to the machine, position the two long hexagon
nuts into the two large middle holes.
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BB
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3.3 Assembly 3.3
Fitting the Squaring Arm
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1. Remove the Squaring Adjuster Block from the right hand Leg by releasing the
middle screw only (take note how this is fixed in place as it will replaced after the
Squaring Arm has been fitted)
2. Slide the Squaring Arm in through the gap in the Main Body and screw the two
hexagon bolts and washers in place loosely (3 or 4 turns will do).
3. Fit the screws with spacers through the Squaring Arm into the legs, put the screws
all the way in but do not tighten at this stage.
4. Move the cutting head to its lowest position.
5. Refit the Squaring Adjuster block by firstly sliding the steel bar into the opening in
the Squaring Arm, then align the heads of the two screws in the Leg to fit the top and
bottom holes in the adjuster block. The screws fixing the Squaring Arm to the
machine should still be loose and allow it some movement to help alignment. Insert
and tighten the screw in the middle hole.

3.4 Assembly 3.4
Fitting the Pull Bar (210 only)
The SteelTraK 165 offers a fast, accurate and robust way to cut boards measuring up to
165cm (65”). The SteeltraK 210 utilises a ‘Pull Bar System’ to increase the cutting
length to 210cm (82”) without compromising the straightforward way the SteelTraK cuts
medium size boards. The ‘Pull Bar’ is only used when cutting between 165cm and
210cm and is automatically stowed out of the way when not in use by virtue of its
integral spring balance
At any stage of the assembly before standing the machine up, fit the Pull Bar using a
6mm Allen key:
1. Remove the Screw and Stub Shaft from the end of the Pull Bar.
2. Insert the end of the Pull Bar in the bracket as shown ensuring the handle at the
other end is facing in the correct direction.
3. Insert the Screw and Stub Shaft and tighten.
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3.5 Assembly 3.5
Fitting the Wall Mounting Bracket
NOTE A: If you are going to fit the Free Standing Kit (optional) turn to the next page.
NOTE B: Ensure the wall is stable and use the appropriate fixings.
1. Lift the top end of the machine (place it on a strong stool or chair) and fit the two
M8 screws (supplied separately) through the black Top Bracket into the back of each
of the Legs. Tighten these and the adjacent two screws (four screws in all) to fix the
Legs to the top of the Main Body.
2. Fit the Wall Mounting Bracket to the top of the Main Body, fasten the screws
finger tight only.
3. Get help to lift the machine up and position it against the wall in the desired position.
4. The Wall Mounting Bracket should lay flush against the wall. Mark the position of the
two V's on each side of the bracket with a short pencil.
5. Move the machine away and remove the Wall Mounting Bracket.
6. Attach the bracket to the wall in the marked position with appropriate fixings then
reposition and fasten the machine to the bracket.
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NB.
SteelTraK
210 only

3.6 Assembly 3.6
Fitting the Free Standing Kit (optional 165 only)
NOTE: The Free standing kit is an optional extra and does not come packed
with the main machine. Assistance will be needed to fit the Free Standing Kit
1. Extend the telescopic leg to the same length as the front legs less 12cm (5")
2. Get help to hold the machine vertical and attach the bracket to the top of the
machine using the nuts and screws provided.
3. Swing down the stay and attach the fixing block to the plate on the bottom of the
Main Body, tighten all three screws on the stay.
4. Adjust the telescopic leg so the machine stands evenly as shown.
5. Secure the top of the Legs to the Main Body by fitting the two M8 screws (supplied
separately) through the black plate into the back of each of the Legs, tighten these
together with the adjacent two screws (four screws in all) to fix the Legs in position.
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3.7 Assembly 3.7
Fitting the Free Standing Kit (optional – 210 only)
NOTE: The Free standing kit is an optional extra and does not come packed
with the main machine. Assistance will be needed to fit the Free Standing Kit
1. First carry out the fitting procedure (1 to 5) on the previous page.
2. Attach the bracket to the end of the Squaring Arm as shown using the two
bolts provided.
3. Adjust the telescopic leg so the machine stands evenly as shown.
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3.8 Assembly 3.8
Fitting the Back Supports
1. Tighten the two sets of nuts and bolts fixing the Squaring arm two the Main Column of
the machine.
2. Tighten the two screws to clamp the Squaring Arm to the two Legs.
3. Separate the Supports into left hand and right hand.
NOTE: The screws fit into special grooves in the underside of the Supports. The
grooves have teeth on their sides to match the teeth of the screw thread, the screw can
be fitted in the groove anywhere along its length but be careful to make sure the screw is
kept perpendicular to the Support and not screwed in out of line.
4. Place one of the 16 Long Screws in each of the holes along the legs of the machine,
fix each Support in turn ensuring the ends of the Supports are firmly against the Main
Column and the screws are aligned with the special grooves as explained above.
5. Fix the end of each Support in position with the Brackets and short screws as shown.
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3.9 Assembly 3.9
Fitting the Handle
1. Remove the three screws from the top of the Cutting Head and fix the Handle in
place being sure it is the correct way round (as shown). Move the cutter head to
the middle of the Main Body
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4.1 Squaring 4.1
Checking your machine for Squareness
For your machine to produce accurate square cuts the Squaring Arm needs to be
fixed at exactly 90° to the Main Column. to adjust the Squaring Arm first select a
sheet of foam core or foam board (3-6mm) at least 60cm x 100cm (24” x 36”) in
size. The larger the board the greater the accuracy.
1. Place the board on the machine
vertically as shown and apply the
clamp ensuring the bottom edge is in
firm contact with the Squaring Arm.
2. Select the cutting blade on the rotating
cutting head (see section 6). Cut into
the top of the board to produce a cut
approximately 3cm (1") long. Disengage
the cutter using the cutter release lever.
Lower the cutter and make a similar cut
at the bottom of the board by pressing
the blade through the board about 3cm
(1") from the bottom edge of the board.
3. Unclamp and turn the board around and
place it back in the SteelTrak but do not
clamp it.
NOTE: For the test to work the board
must be turned laterally (like a page in a
book) not top to bottom.
Move the sliding head down and align
the board so that the cutting blade
enters the previous made cut at the
bottom edge of the board. Apply the
clamp. Release the blade..
4. Raise the sliding head and depress the
blade so that it engages with the top
edge of the board, if the machine is
square the blade will enter the same cut
as made previously. if not refer to the
following page to make the necessary
adjustment.
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4.2 Squaring 4.2
Adjusting the Squareness
NOTE: Before making any adjustments carry out the squareness check as described on
the previous page.
It is assumed that the board used for the test is still clamped in the machine. From the
test results determine if the last cut made in the top of the board is to the left or right of
the previous cut, as shown above:
1. Slacken the two screws(1 + 4) joining the Squaring Arm to the two Legs.
2. Slacken the left hand nut (2) joining the Squaring Arm to the Main Body, make sure
the right hand nut (3) is tight.
3. Release the clamp and position the board such that the blade is held in the cut on
the bottom edge of the board, press down on the board to make sure it is in good
contact with the Squaring Arm.
4. Turn the squaring adjustment knob (5) on the right hand Leg in the direction shown
below dependant upon the position of the top two cuts.
If the second cut is to the right of the first cut turn the adjustment screw clockwise
when viewed from underneath.
If the second cut is to the left of the first cut turn the adjustment screw counter-
clockwise when viewed from underneath.
The adjustment screw should be moved so that when the blade is moved to the top of
the board it cuts between the two existing cuts, the plastic sightline fixed to the
edge of the clamp gives an indication where the machine is going to cut.
5. Repeat the squareness check.
6. Tighten the screws (1,2, & 4) nut loosened in 1& 2 above.
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5.1 Calibration 5.1
Calibrating the Measuring scales
The vertical measuring scale is supplied separate from the machine, the two horizontal
squaring arm scales are already attached to the machine but may not be positioned
accurately and will need calibrating.
Vertical scale: This measures the height of the board on the machine and is only used
for reference.
1. Take a small piece of board and accurately measure its' height, place the board in the
machine such that it lays over the groove where the scale is to be applied.
2. With a pencil, mark a fine line level with the top edge of the board adjacent to the
groove.
3. Remove the release paper from the groove in the Main Body and stick the Vertical
scale in place such that the pencil mark lines up with the measured dimension in (1).
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5.2 Calibration 5.2
Calibrating the Measuring scales
The two horizontal squaring arm scales are already attached to the machine but may not
be positioned accurately and will need calibrating.
Horizontal scales: The SteelTrak can be loaded from either side and the scales are
used by eye or using the stops to measure the required width of board that will be cut
off to the left or right of the cut line. the cutting blade, twin wheels and scoring tools cut
on the same line. the measuring scales are fixed to sliding stainless steel strips that can
be moved to allow accurate calibration.
1. Slide the two Measuring Stops onto the Squaring Arm being careful to align the pro
file of the stop and its locking bar to the profile of the Squaring Arm. The Measuring
Stops are able to 'flip' in and out as required.
2. Set both stops at 15cm (6"), 'flip' one of the stops into place and the other out, then
place a piece of card in the machine and slide it to touch the stop that is flipped in.
Clamp the card in place select the cutting blade on the rotating cutter head and cut
the card.
3. Measure the cut width of the card, say it is 14.7cm (5 7/8"), slide the Measuring Scale
so that it reads the dimension measured i.e. 14.7cm (5 7/8"). Repeat the process
with the other Measuring Stop.
NOTE: If the scales move too freely it is simple to increase the friction. To avoid reset-
ting the scales first choose any easily remembered dimension and set the stop. Slide the
scale from its groove, twist it and replace it to the remembered dimension.
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5.3 Calibration 5.3
Fitting the Sight-line strip
The Sight-line strip is fixed to the clamp and then trimmed using the cutting blade to give
an accurate guide when cutting to trim lines, the edge of an image or pencil marks.
NOTE: Do not engage the Twin Wheel Cutter until reading its instructions for use in
Section 6. Engaging the Twin Wheel Cutter interferes with the Sight-line Strip and can
cause damage to it. A gap is left in the Sight-line Strip at a convenient height to enable
the Twin Wheel Cutter to be engaged.
1. Remove the worn Sight-line Strip by peeling it off and clean any surplus adhesive with
solvent cleaner on a cloth. Remove the backing paper and starting at the bottom
press the Strip firmly in the channel provided working upwards and cut off at a
convenient height. Leave a gap of 18cm (7”) and then fit the remainder of the strip.
For the 210 version one full length Strip and one cut in half will be required.
2. Place a piece of firm board up to 6mm (1/4") thick on the machine to bridge the gap
running down the back of the Main Body, this needs to be the full height of the
clamp.
3. Place a piece of card or foamboard 3-6mm (1/8"-1/4") thick under the full length of
the flexible part of the Sight-line strip, not under the aluminium clamp itself.
Depress the clamp handle so that the Sight-line strip is pressed flat across the surface
of the board.
4. Keep fingers clear and using a block or tool hold down the top left corner of the strip
to start the cut. With the turret rachet disengaged (Scoring page 6) press the blade
lightly on to the surface of the Sight-line strip score along the full length. Repeat and
trim the Sight-line strip in 2 or 3 cuts.
NOTE: If a board is not available to go the full length of the clamp use two or more
pieces or trim the strip in stages.
NOTE: The Sightline Strip is fitted to your machine but may wear or get marked with
use. A spare strip is included with the machine, replacement strips are available
from your distributor.
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6.1 Operation 6.1
Using the clamp
The Clamping system enables the operator to control the grip pressure by means of an
integral friction brake that maintains the clamping force at the pressure applied by the
operating lever. Soft materials can be held firmly without sustaining damage and solid
materials held rigidly without movement. By following the guidelines below it will help
you to get the most from the machine:
USE CLAMPING INSTRUCTIONS
Soft materials such as Use light to medium pressure. The underside of the clamp
Foamcore boards, grips an area nearly 4cm (11/2”) wide with a non-marking
Lightweight card, etc. sponge rubber reasonable force can be applied. If in doubt
clamp a sample first with the good surface facing outwards.
Harder materials such as PVC Use medium to heavy pressure.
foam board, MDF or Composite
boards such as Dibond.
Cropping to trim lines, Place material in approximate position under clamp, apply light
pencil marks, etc. clamp pressure to allow the material to be repositioned. Align
(See drawing) the trim marks with the edge of the Sight-line strip and clamp.

6.2 Operation 6.2
The Cutting Head in General
The Cutting Head runs up and down
the Main Body of the machine on two
stainless steel tracks and has zero side
movement giving perfect blade control.
The Main Body also encloses a balance
weight system that allows the Cutting
Head to be suspended at any height,
benefiting blade changing and
maintenance but also minimising the
effort required to lift the heavy duty
Cutting Head.
There are four cutting functions built into
the machine the top part of the Cutting
Head houses the Twin Wheel or TW
Cutter, the standard Composite TW
Cutter is used for cutting tougher
materials than a normal blade can
handle. Composite boards such as
Dibond (r) and other materials including
MDF, Masonite and Hardboard up to
4mm thick are all cut with ease in one
stroke. The TW cutter can be easily
engaged and disengaged at will.
An optional Aluminium TW Cutter is also
available for cutting aluminium up to
1.6mm (16swg) and can be attached to
the machine in just a few seconds. If you
need further advice regarding materials
please contact your supplier.
On the lower half of the Cutting Head is
the Multi-Cutter Head housing three
instantly selectable cutting tools. To
change between the cutting tools just
pull the Turret Handle
out to the left and rotate it one third of a
turn until the indicating label shows
which cutter is active.
The Multi-Cutter Head also incorporates the unique Keencut Ratchet System which
gives two main advantages. Firstly, it enables thick, tough materials to be cut in multiple
passes by setting the ratchet to cut through the board in stages giving the best cut
quality achievable and reducing operator effort to suit the operator. Secondly, it locks
the cutting blade at the required depth and holds it there mechanically so concentration
can be applied to pushing the blade through the material without having to worry about
applying effort to hold the blade in the material. Once the blade reaches the bottom of
the cut it the ratchet is automatically disengaged and the Cutting Head moves out to its
rest position ready to be set for the next cut.

6.21Operation 6.21
The Cutting Head in General
The three cutting tools are:
1. The Cutting Blade - Using a standard Medium Duty utility blade (not Heavy Duty -
they will not fit) to cut PVC Foamboards like Forex®, corrugated plastic such as
Correx®, card, matboard and many other types of rigid boards up to 13mm (1/2")
thick.
2. The Scoring Blade - A specially designed tool steel scoring blade is used to score
the surface of any brittle plastics including Acrylic's such as Perspex®, Plexiglass
and even some Polycarbonates. Once scored the plastic sheet is removed from the
machine and 'snapped' along the score line. Any thickness (up to 13mm 1/2") can
be scored but tests should be carried out on a sample of the sheet to ensure it does
'snap' and to an acceptable quality (remember to use hand and face protection when
doing this).
3. Glass Cutting - A high quality tungsten carbide wheel is used to score glass. An
optional Glass Cutting Kit will be required to use this facility, operating instructions for
glass cutting are not included in this manual and but are supplied with the Glass
Cutting Kit.
NOTE: Our research established that glass cutting is very rarely required by Sign makers
and Graphic workshops. That knowledge allowed us to exclude the fixed breakout ramp
and incorporate a level back board system enabling material to be loaded from left or
right for optimum material flow in any workshop.
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