KidNme Motorsports Blade User manual

Servicing your Blade
“Basic Maintenance”
Intro
Any kart you purchase will require at least “basic maintenance” on a regular basis. The
better the kart, the less tools you’ll need but all require regular maintenance such as; oil
changes, replacing brake pads, tightening nuts & bolts, etc.
If you are handy, these are all very easy to do and only require a basic knowledge to maintain.
We would like to share some tips and basic maintenance procedures to keep you rolling. These
can all be done by the customer without voiding the warranty if done properly. If at any time you
don’t feel comfortable with any of these procedures, drop it by our shop and we would be glad to
do it for you! We offer service contracts if you choose to go that route! (Click the “Service Contract”Link)
Before riding, you should always go over all the major nuts and bolts to be sure
everything is tight and check “high impact” items such as lug nuts, shocks and struts.
Give the tires a good kick!
(We “Locktite” most nuts and bolts when we put them together but the more fun you have in your
Blade, the more you need to check them!
☺ )
Here is a list of tools you will need to perform basic maintenance on your
buggy……...
*Phillips Screwdriver *Flat head Screwdriver
*Metric Socket set (10mm,12mm, 14mm) *Adjustable wrench
*Pliers *Spark plug Socket
(16mm)
*10X30 or 10W40 oil(Mobile 1 synth is our personal prefference)

“Service FAQ”
The following is for general maintenance on your kart. BE careful,
If you don’t understand any instruction, please bring your kart in for service so as not to
void your warranty.
Checking Spark Plug
Clear up the carbon and dirt around the spark plug to prevent it from
falling into the cylinder when removing. Check for warping or cracks
in the porcelain,
Removal steps:
This should only be done after the engine has cooled
If the spark plug is too tight to remove, spray some rust inhibiter
or WD40on the spark plug washer and the thread part; after the inhibiter has
soaked the washer and thread part, try again.
a.Clear up the dirt and carbon accumulation on the spark plug with a wire brush
b. Check the spark plug gap (It should be between 0.6 - 0.9 mm.)
c. If the carbon accumulation or the wear of the spark plug is too serious, replace the spark plug
with a new one. Type: NGK DPR7EA-9 For the 250cc
NGK C7HSA FOR THE 150, 110 AND THE 150CC MODELS
Spark plug tip if the tip of the plug is white or grey, you are running lean. Brownish color, you are
good. If it is Black or wet, you are running rich. A lot can be told but looking at the tip of your plug!
Adjustment of Idle Speed
a. Start the engine and warm up for several minutes;
b. Turn the fuel adjusting screw fully and turn back the standard
1~ 3/4 turns;
c. Turn the fuel adjusting screw left and right slightly to adjust the throttle to
1,500rpm’s, +/-100rpm
g. Run the engine from low speed to high speed;
Run the engine at the idle speed for 10~ 15 seconds to see if the
idle speed is stable;
h. If the idle speed changes, repeat steps c~f.
Tire Pressure / Wear
Check the tire pressure before driving.
Specifications: Front Tire: 7-9psi Rear Tire:7-9 psi
Tire pressure is very important for riding stability.
Do not ride on a road surface. These tires are made for off road use. Replace tires when they
become worn
Brake Performance
a. Always check that there is plenty of brake fluid in the
reservoir;
b. Check if the front/rear brake pads are in good condition
c. Check the brake rotor for abnormal wear.

Always replace brake parts when they become worn
Air Cleaner
Clean the air cleaner quarterly or more often when driving in dusty
conditions.
If the air cleaner is clogged with dust, its performance will be
severely decreased and/or engine damages will occur.
Longevity of Air Cleaner
a. Clean the air cleaner every 250mi. of running or more
b. Replace the paper air cleaner every 1,000mi,of running.
c. Replace foam filter when necessary
Paper Filter
a. Remove the filter from its housing;
b. Lightly tap the filter on an object to knock out the dust and replace
c. Replace the filter element if it is worn.
Foam Filter
a. Remove the filter out of its steel cage;
b. Wash the filter in non-flammable cleaning solvent;
c. Submerge the filter in oil and squeeze it to remove excess oil;
d. Install the filter element back into the air box.
Notes:
Make sure that the element is seated properly and no foreign material can pass by it
Fuel Valve Lever
On some of our vehicles there is a manually operated fuel valve lever (petcock) with three
positions:
a. “ON” position: It’s the normal operating position where the fuel flows into
the carburetor;
b. “RES” position: If the fuel lever is in the “ON” position and it is too low
for the engine to operate, turn the fuel lever to the “RES” position to use
the reserved fuel supply, and refuel as soon as possible;
c. "OFF" position: It’s the closing position. When the vehicle is not in use, always make sure that the petcock
is in the "OFF" position
Fuel Switch Service
a. Periodically clean the petcock outside with grease remover and water;
b. Check for any leaks
c. Replace the petcock if there is any sign of leakage.
Chassis Lubrication
Inspect and clean it monthly if necessary and lubricate it regularly.
a. Grease the chassis bushings and bearings with some grease quarterly to make sure that
they operate smoothly
b. If it’s used in extremely wet, muddy or dusty conditions, we recommend you to service it
more often.

Engine Oil Level Inspection
Inspect the engine oil before riding and replace it monthly.
a. Stop the engine
b. Keep the vehicle on the flat ground for 2-3 minutes;
c. Remove and clean off oil level stick and stick back in to check level.
Notes: The Oil level stick should not be screwed in while checking level,
just put in top and check. Be careful of hot engine parts
Changing Engine Oil
Engine should still be warm but not hot before changing oil!
a. Remove the drain plug from the left side bottom of the engine, and drain
oil into an oil pan for disposal;
b. Remove the large cap on the bottom left of the engine and remove the
screen
b. Wash the screen with some cleaning solvent and put it back
c. make sure that the O-ring is still in good condition, replace it if necessary
d. Replace drain plug
d. Refill the engine with SAE10W/30SF engine oil and run the engine for 5 minutes;
Engine oil capacity: 1.0 L (Disassembling) 0.8L (Replacing)
e. Check the oil level on the filler cap again without screwing it in
f. Screw the cap back on
Oil Leakage
a. There could be too much oil in the gearbox, check level
b. The oil seal is damaged or worn.
Replacement of Gearbox Oil
Recommendation: before draining the final gear oil, please warm the engine
for at least 10 minutes.
Inspect the final gear oil monthly and replace it quarterly.
a. Keep the vehicle on flat ground;
b.Check the oil level: remove the oil level screw on the left rear engine case
c.If the oil level parallels the oil level bolt hole, it’s normal.
d.Drain out the oil: remove the drain plug at the rear bottom of the engine case
e.Check if the gearbox oil seal is damaged, and replace it if necessary.
Notes: We recommend the Mobile 85w/90 gear oil for the final drive case. However, in extreme
cold weather conditions, the vehicle may become hard to start, so we advise a lighter oil, such as
a 75 wt or the equivalent motorcycle transmission fluid.

Trouble Shooting
The engine can be started, but the vehicle won’t go.
a. The gears or shifter cable could be damaged or loose
Transmission Noise
a. The bearings or gears could be worn
Seek immediate attention before further damage occurs
Cooling System (FOR 250XT)
If the water temperature rises.
These karts need periodic rests to cool down every hour or so.
a. The heat sensor of the thermometer could be faulty
b. The water tank cover missing or damaged
c. The temperature petcock is faulty
d. The tank fluid is insufficient;
e. The water pipe and water sleeve are clogged
The Engine won’t start.
Check that…..
a. There’s fuel in the fuel tank
b. The fuel tube isn’t clogged
c. There isn’t too much fuel in the fuel tank
d. The air cleaner isn’t clogged
e. The fuel hasn’t deteriorated
f. The battery isn’t dead?
The engine won’t run stably or smoothly at idle speed.
Could be that…..
a. The idle speed hasn’t been adjusted properly
b. The gas mixture in the carburetor is too rich
c. The gas mixture in the carburetor is too lean.
d. The air cleaner is clogged
e. The fuel has deteriorated
f. The air valve isn’t working
g. The negative pressure tube is damaged or clogged
h. The connecting pipe of the carburetor is damaged
The engine stalls when the throttle is fully open.
Could be…….