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  9. Kontax KS90 User manual

Kontax KS90 User manual

Kontax Stirling Engines KS90 instructions
This document covers the following:
Tools required
Parts list
Assembly instructions
Operating instructions
Maintenance
Contact details:
www.stirlingengine.co.uk
[email protected]
Tel: 01452 905001 (UK)
Tools you will need to
assemble your KS90 Low
Temperature Stirling
Engine:
Cross-point screwdriver,
Flat-bladed screwdriver,
Elastic band, coffee/tea
mug.
Bottom plate x1
Top plate x1
75mm O ring x2
Chamber wall x1
Displacer x1
Flywheel x1
Main pillar x1
Ball-race bearing x2
Crank x1
Piston x1
Cylinder x1
Gland x1
Hub/axle x1
Conrod x2
13mm O ring x2
M2x6mm roundhead x2
Conrod bush x2
M2x4mm roundhead x1
M3x6mm countersunk x2
M2x6mm countersunk x7
M2x4mm countersunk x3
Gland stem x1
Chamber pillar x7
7mm O ring x1
Note: Pre-assembled from late 2016 onwards.
Slide the gland onto the gland stem, hold the
stem between the thumb and forefinger of
your left hand and roll the gland along
the side of your right hand forefinger.
As you roll it, work the gland
along the whole length of
the stem.
This will remove any
particles of dust
inside the gland.
Fit one 7mm O ring into
the groove in the bottom
of the gland.
Locate the underside of the top plate.
The underside is the side with the countersinks on the two holes as shown in the diagram.
If you have solar (acrylic) or polished (stainless steel) plates you will need to remove the
protective film from the top plate now. Once you have removed the film try to handle the
plate by its edges, this will minimise fingerprints. Solar (acrylic) plates have protective film
on both sides, polished (stainless steel) plates have protective film on one side only. Black
and blue (aluminium) plates do not have protective film.
Screw the gland into the top side of the top plate and fully tighten, you might need to
wrap an elastic band around it for grip. Make sure that the O ring does not become
pinched or fall out of its groove. If you have trouble with the O ring falling out you can
turn the plate upside down and screw the gland in from underneath.
Fit one 13mm O ring into
the groove in the bottom of
the cylinder.
Screw the cylinder into the top side of the top plate and fully tighten, you might need to
wrap an elastic band around it for grip. Make sure that the O ring does not become
pinched or fall out of its groove. If you have trouble with the O ring falling out you can
turn the plate upside down and screw the cylinder in from underneath.
Align the hole in the main pillar as shown in the diagram and push the pillar into the
hole in the packing tray. This will hold
it still and upright while you
perform the next few
assembly stages.
Insert one 13mm O ring into the
groove in the bottom
of the pillar.
Position the top plate over the main pillar, with the underside of the plate facing
upwards. Align the two countersunk holes in the plate with the two threaded holes in
the main pillar and insert two M3x6mm countersunk screws a couple of turns each.
Screw the screws in until they both lightly touch the top plate, then fully tighten.
Remove the partially assembled engine from the packing tray.
Place the partially assembled
engine over the top of a
coffee mug.
This will hold it still so that
you can use both hands to
perform the next few
assembly stages.
Insert seven chamber pillars into
the seven small holes in the
plate; they should all be an easy
fit. If you have solar plates the
heads of the pillars will sit below
the surface, if you have polished,
black or blue plates the heads
will sit on the surface.
Position the packing
tray over the partially
assembled engine and
align the hole in the
bottom of the tray with
the main pillar, gland
and cylinder.
lower the tray down
until it sits on top of the
brass chamber pillars,
the engine plate will fit
inside the first step on
the inside of the tray.

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