Kromski Polonaise User manual

Kromski Polonaise
Assembly Instructions
Important Notice
If you have any difculty in understanding these instructions, as-
sembling the wheel, or having it operate to its fullest potential, WE
WANT YOU TO CONTACT US. WE CAN HELP.
If something does not t, does not turn or rotate, looks unusual, or if,
in spinning, something seems wrong, CALL US FOR CUSTOMER
SERVICE. 229-227-1322
You may also e-mail us your telephone number and a convenient
time to reach you (we will want you near the wheel) so we can help.
Our e-mail: [e-mail]
Video assembly instructions can be viewed here:
http://newvoyager.com/videos.html
Please check out our expanding offering of training and
informational videos on this page as well.
Thank you
New Voyager Trading
Distributor of Kromski products in North America
229-859-2001
[email protected]
www.kromskina.com
Kromski North America

Kromski Polonaise Spinning Wheel
First, thanks for choosing the Kromski Polonaise. We want your spin-
ning experience to be enjoyable and the rst thing to do is to assemble
the wheel correctly and with care so that it works properly. We suggest
you read through these instructions completely before you begin as this
will resolve any questions you may have before they arise. You may also
use the video that comes with your wheel, but we ask that you read these
instructions as we may have updated or otherwise corrected information
that is in the video.
After your wheel is assembled we will offer a few words of advice about
adjusting and maintenance.
Finishing
If you purchased an unnished wheel we suggest a nish of your choosing.
A good wood stain and surface nish will help prevent a degree of staining
from regular use and from the use of lubricating oil. Finishing a wheel
prior to assembly is probably the best way to proceed. For a clear, natural
look we suggest tung oil; otherwise, any quality stain and nish is accept-
able.
Unboxing the wheel
The Polonaise was boxed in Poland and has traveled some distance to get to you so the rst thing to do is to unbox the wheel, remove
all the parts and check for any problems that may be obvious. If you observe a problem, contact your dealer.
Make sure all parts are unwrapped and set aside. Give yourself some room to work away from the parts so you don’t step on anything.
Smaller parts are in plastic bags so you may want to empty the bags and examine these items. Everything will go together easily so
don’t be concerned with the number of parts.
Please refer to the detailed drawings that are attached and the video for additional information about putting your wheel
together.
Step 1
The rst step is to attach the rear leg. Make sure the leg is “driven home” so it sit well into the hole. Please do not glue the leg if you
believe something has happened to these parts during shipment. All legs are now rounded at the oor, not at.
Step 2
Attach the mother-of-all table (this is the small table that is at the left side of the wheel) to the bench using the barrel nuts and bolts set
(this consists of a hex-head bolt, a barrel nut (metal cylinder with threaded hole), a silver washer and a gold centering washer). The
two holes on the end of the table will face towards the wheel. Put a barrel nut into each of pre drilled holes in the two table legs (note
that the nuts have a slot for a screwdriver; this should face out) and inserting a hex bolt with a washer and center washer up through
the base of the bench into the table legs. If you nd two of the four bolts in the
parts bag to be shorter, use them at this location. Use a screwdriver to line up
the barrel nut with the bolt, as needed. Using the supplied 4 mm hex wrench,
snug the two bolts even and tight.
Step 3
Find the two wheel support posts and two long threaded wheel adjustment
screws (about 17” long). Refer to the parts pictures as needed. Apply candle
was to the threads (after nishing). You may also wax all other threads you see
on the Polonaise at this time. Carefully screw an adjustment screw into each
post, ensuring that the pre drilled hole near the bottom of the post (a hole you
will use for another barrel nut) is on the same side as the adjustment screw.
Again, refer to a picture as needed.
Table
Wheel post
Footman
Bench
Tension screw
Flyer
Thumb
Screw
Wheel
adjusting
screw
Maiden
Peg
Barrel nut hole

Turn in the adjustment screw enough so that you can place the support posts into the bench and the adjustment screw can be lined up
with the hole at the end of the mother-of-all table. Using the two remaining hex-head bolts, barrel nut, washer and center guide, attach
the two posts to the bench by inserting the bolt assemblies up from the bottom of the bench into the post and through the barrel nut.
Snug but do not tighten bolts yet; the post must be able to rotate a bit so you can do the next procedure.
Rotate the posts so you can line up and then back the adjustment screws into the holes at the end of the mother-of-all table. Do not put
any pressure on the adjustment screw at this time since only one end is now supported. Continue to back in the adjustment screws un-
til you can look down through the peg hole on the top of the table and see the peg groove on the adjustment screws. At this point you
should insert a locking peg into each hole, securing the adjustment screws to the table but allowing them to rotate. DO NOT ROTATE
THESE SCREWS after pegging. They must stay in a “neutral” position for the time being.
Now the wheel posts are properly aligned with the table and adjustment screws. Tighten the two hex bolts that hold the wheel posts so
the posts are as rigid as can be.
Step 4
Now you will assemble the mother-of-all base (this refers to the structure that supports the yer and bobbin above the table). Some
of this has been pre-assembled for you (it is the set of parts that includes the
maidens that have leather bearings).
Wax the threads on the tension adjusting screw and insert through the end of
the mother-of-all table. Screw through the wooden tension guide screw (with
the threaded end pointed up) so that the notch on the adjusting screw can
be lined up with the peg hole on the table. Insert a locking peg to secure the
adjusting screw.
Rotate the maidens so the leather bearings are 90 degrees to the base and
tighten the diamond shaped wood nuts on the front maiden. Place the pre-
assemble mother-of-all onto the threaded guide screw and secure with the
round mother-of-all lock nut. No need to attach the yer at this time.
If you like, prior to the above step, you can rst set the leather bearings of the
two maidens in a cup of oil and allow it to wick up into the entire leather. (If
you will be nishing the wheel make sure to nish rst, then oil the leather
bearings)
Step 5
The wheel on the Polonaise is supported and rotates on two metal pins that are embedded into the ends of two threaded wood thumb
screws. Begin by attaching these two thumb screws from the outside of the wheel support posts. Screw in until about .25” of the
screw comes through to the inside of the post.
Place the footman (long, at piece of wood) on the wheel crank by working it into position using the large hole area on the footman.
Once it is up in position on the crank, pull it down so the small end sits on the crank. In your parts bag are two small wooden pins. The
longer pin is used to secure the footman tightly to the crank by inserting it through the two holes at the top of the footman.
You will now hang the wheel. Bring the wheel and footman in between the two wheel support posts. Drop the bottom end of the foot-
man through the hole in the wheel bench. Bring the hub of the wheel into position so that the metal cups on each side of the crank/hub
line up with the pointed ends of the thumb screws coming through the posts.
Holding the wheel with one hand, advance the thumb screws equally so that
the metal pins nest into the metal cups on the crank. The wheel is properly
supported when you can visually detect a slight deection of the two wheel
posts. If you can push from the outside in, on both thumb screws, and do not
feel movement, you are probably set right. If in doubt, error on the side of a
tighter t. These bearing points are machined to nest nicely so more tension is
not a problem.
Attach the footman to the treadle using the leather strap from the parts bag.
Wax the strap with a candle or parafn to reduce noise caused by exing
during spinning. Lace the leather footman tie through the hole on the footman
and tie a rm square knot positioned at the very end of the footman. Push
both ends through the hole on the top of the treadle. Wrap both ends around
the sides of the treadle, bring up and tie off as tight as you can. There should
be no slack in the connection between the end of the footman and the treadle.
When done, you want to make sure the footman does not come into contact
Thumb screw
Maidens, mother-of-all, table
Footman
Crank

with the hole in the bench as the wheel makes its rotation. If the footman touches the bench, adjust the thumb screws equal amounts to
move the wheel and footman towards the front or back, as needed, so the footman does not touch the table.
Step 6
Now there are a number of small jobs to complete before you spin. You can now attach the fancy ends to the top of the two wheel
posts. We do not recommend gluing.
The Polonaise uses three thumb pegs to implement the scotch tension setup. (If you do not intend to use Scotch tension you may skip
this step.) Two thumb pegs have metal eye bolts on them, one has a hole in its shaft. This last thumb peg goes in the hole closest to the
spinner. Insert the other thumb pegs into their holes on the base of the mother-of-all. You will attach the brake band in a moment.
The Polonaise comes with two whorls. Assemble the yer with a bobbin and the largest whorl. WARNING: AS WITH MOST
DOUBLE DRIVE WHEELS, THE WHORLS AND SPINDLE SHAFT ARE REVERSE
THREADED. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO ATTACH THE WHORL IN THE WRONG
DIRECTION. GOING ON, TURN IN A COUNTERCLOCKWISE DIRECTION.
CLOCKWISE TO REMOVE. DON’T LET CHILDREN PLAY WITH THIS.
For anyone new to double drive spinning, note that there are two different size pulleys
on the bobbin. Depending on the size of the whorl you are using, always make sure that
the bobbin pulley being used is smaller than the whorl groove you are using. We suggest
you use the largest bobbin pulley with the larger whorl; but you MUST use the smaller
bobbin pulley with the smaller whorl
On the metal spindle you will nd a small brass spacer at the base of the spindle. It is
important that this remain on the shaft all the time. If it is not on the shaft, check the
parts bag.
Now you will tie the drive band for double drive operation. Move the mother-of-all all the way to the right (closest to the wheel), then
back up a twist or two. Pull the drive band around the wheel, over the bobbin pulley, back around the wheel a second time, ending up
with both ends of the string coming together over the largest diameter grove of the whorl. Tie a snug overhand knot then complete a
square knot. Pull tight all 4 legs of the knot then trim the short ends to about 1/8th of an inch.
Adjusting the front maiden to get a proper t. Tighten the front maiden into position. There is some play here and you can adjust to
your liking. The yer should oat a bit, front to back, between the leathers. Using the tension adjusting screw, move the mother-of-all
to the left until you have proper tension on the drive band. Snug the locking nut to stabilize the mother-of-all.
Find the remaining short wooden pin in the parts bag and insert it into the pre drilled hole on the top back of the bench. You will use
this to store your extra whorls. The threading hook goes into the hole on the bench. The rst time you put the hook in this hole, push
and twist to establish a good mating. Bend the wire on the hook to suit your needs.
Scotch Tension - The brake band parts for scotch tension are in the parts bag - 3 thumb pegs (2 with eye screws attached), band with
spring attached. Connect the spring to the eye bolt on one peg and place peg into the hole on the left rear of the mother-of-all base (eye
points up). Loop the string over the rear bobbin pulley, down to the other peg place in right rear
hole, thread through the eye then forward to the adjusting knob. Secure by tying the string through
the hole in the peg with enough slack to allow you to wind the string around the peg as you apply
brake to the bobbin. If using this brake band be sure the 2 rear pegs are adjusted so the band is a
straight line when over the bobbin pulley. If you are not using the brake (when in double drive
operation), drape the band under the yer. See peg picture above right.
Tensioned lazy kate - Screw two eyescrews into the pre-drilled holes on base. Insert the ends of
the short piece (handle) into the pre-drilled holes at the top of the two long posts. Do not glue this
piece. Now press the bottom of the two longer posts into the base ensuring that the small hole in the
handle is at the same end as the two eye screws. Glue base (but not handle) if you want to make a
secure, permanent unit. Attach the Lazy Kate brake band by hooking the spring to the eyebolt clos-
est to the corner of the lazy kate base. Thread the band through the other eyebolt and tie off the end
of the band through the hole on the horizontal handle. You exert tension on bobbins by rotating the
handle, winding the band around the handle. When using the tension option, make a “S” curve with
the band around the pulleys on the bobbins; increase the braking action by turning the handle.
Wheel adjustment
The Kromski Polonaise is very true to the style of wheel that originated in the Baltic and Scandinavian area of Europe. It is the only
wheel we know of that holds to this design style. Today this style is typically called Norwegian. In this design, the crank and the foot-
man are located inside the two wheel posts and the wheel rotates using “pin and cup” bearings. Because the wheel “oats” on these
Scotch
Tension
Pegs

pins and because the wheel adjustment screws actually work (meaning you can turn them and something happens), the drive wheel can
be displaced laterally. In an ideal spinning scenario, you want the wheel to always line up with the whorl and bobbin so that the drive
band tracks well around the wheel and over the whorls. You adjust this tracking (we call it aiming) by turning the two wheel adjust-
ment screws simultaneously but in opposite directions. Always rotate both screws the same amount and never one at a time.
The best way to “aim” the wheel is to stand looking at the wheel from the wheel end. Eyeball a straight line from the wheel to the gap
between the bobbin and the whorl. You can do this with or without the drive band being on. If you want to “aim” the wheel more to
your right, take hold of both wheel adjustment screws and rotate both of them out or away from the wheel. If you need to “aim” the
wheel to the left, take hold of both wheel adjustment screws and rotate both of them in towards the wheel. You will see the wheel
move on its axis in the direction you want. Once this adjustment is made you will not need to do this step again until you change
whorl size, if then. Remember, always adjust the screws simultaneously, in opposite directions and in equal increments.
As with any new wheel, there will be a break-in period, not only for the wheel but for the spinner to get accustomed to the feel and
adjustments that need to be made during spinning. Follow the lubrication suggestions below and then treadle for a while without spin-
ning. Make sure there is nothing on the shaft that will impede easy rotation of the bobbin. Make sure the treadle/footman connection
is secure. Make sure the footman does not touch the bench (or make adjustments as noted above). Find the “sweet spot” on the treadle
that will allow you to start the wheel from nearly any position without the use of your hand. The Polonaise has a good heel/toe feel:
position your foot on the treadle so you can get this feel.
Maintenance
All spinning wheels have points that require lubrication. On the Polonaise, you need to regularly oil the following points:
Treadle ends where they enter the front legs
Leather bearings that support the yer
Metal spindle shaft at both ends where the bobbin bearings ride
The footman/crank point
The two metal pin/cup bearings points on the wheel hub; alternately, you might want to put some petroleum jelly in the cups as it is
less prone to dripping out.
Your Kromski Polonaise comes with a handy needle nose oiling bottle. It is ideal for all these locations. We recommend that all these
points be oiled when you begin spinning for the day and you may want to oil the pin/cup bearing more often.
Because of the manner of aiming the wheel towards the yer and using the thumb screws to hold the wheel, your wheel posts will in
time deect (we are talking about 3-6 years). To bring everything back to “normal,” swap the 2 wheel posts; remove the bolts that
hold the posts to the bench, remove the posts and exchange them front to back - back to front.
Books
Hands-on Spinning by Lee Raven - the “standard” for all new spinners
Videos
Spinning Wool - Basics and Beyond by Patsy Zawistoski
If you have any questions about your Polonaise or any concerns, please contact your retailer or we welcome your calls at New Voy-
ager Trading. We can help. Call: 229-227-1322.
From time to time changes may be made to these instructions. You can obtain an updated version any time by visiting our web site at
www.newvoyager.com
The Kromski may make changes to this wheel. Any change that affects assembly will be noted; other type of changes may not be
shown.
Kromski Spinning Wheels
Imported and Distributed by
New Voyager Trading
Thomasville, GA 31792
229-859-2001
www.kromskina.com
Kromski Spinning Wheels
Imported and Distributed by
Kromski North America
Pavo, GA 31778

Parts List - Kromski Polonaise
Adjusting plate
Drive Band
Wheel post
caps (2)
Threading hook
Locking pegs (3)
Scotch Tension
pegs (3), brake
band
Tension spring
Bobbins (3)
Tension guide
screw
Mother-of-all
lock nut
Tension adjusting
screw
Small whorl
Large whorl
Mother-of-all
base
Maiden lock
nut
Flyer spindle
bushing
Flyer hooks
Front
Maiden
Leather bearing,
front
Flyer Rear Maiden
Leeather bearing,
rear
Over

Rear Leg
Wheel Adjusting
screws (2) Bolt, barrel nut, large
washer, brass centering
ring (set of 4)
Wheel
Post (2)
Leather footman tie
Footman
Mother-of-all bench
post - installed
Mother-of-all
bench
Crank thumb
screws (2)
Footman pin
Whorl storage peg
(in parts bag) Wheel bench
Left leg
Right leg
Treadle bearing
pre-installed
Treadle rail
Treadle
Side post (2)
Top tension
handle
Bobbin
rods (3)
Base
Eye screw (2)
Tension
spring
Brake
band
Parts List - Kromski Polonaise
Over
Metal rods no longer have wooden knobs on the ends.

Step 1: Install rear leg. Glue in
place if you prefer.
Step 2: Install mother-of-all table. Use
barrel nut, bolt, a center guide and a
washer. Use a screwdriver on nut to help
line up hole.If your parts bag has long and
short bolts, use short bolts here.
Step 3: Tighten bolt with allen
wrench.
Step 4: Screw wheel adjusting screws (2)
in to wheel posts (2); you will need to go
all the way to the end. The screw starts
on the same side as the small hole at bot-
tom of the post.
Step 5: Place the two wheel posts into the counter-
sunk holes on the bench.
Polonaise Assembly - by the picture
Hole on this
side

Step 6: Insert barrel nut into hole near the base
of the post. Use a screwdriver to line up nut
with bolt. Be sure to use centering ring and
washer. Back adjusting screws into the two
holes on the right edge of table to the point
where you can see the peg notch by looking
down through the peg hole. Insert a peg into
each hole. Tighten the two bolts with the allen
wrench. Do not rotate the two adjusting screws
at this time.
Step 7: Install tension adjusting screw
through hole on left edge of table. Thread
through the tension guide screw (threaded
end up). Secure screw by inserting a peg
into hole on top of the table.
Locking pegs
Tension
screw

1
2
3
Step 8: Assemble the Mother-of-all as shown left.
Place a bobbin on the yer and screw on one whorl
- nut side nearest the bobbin. NOTE - reverse threads
on whorl; counterclockwise to put on, clockwise to
remove.
Step 9:Work the footman on the crank. Secure
with long wooden pin.
Step 10: Hang the wheel. The footman goes
through the bench. Screw in the two thumb
screws that support the wheel equal distances.
The posts should deect out a bit when the
wheel is properly secure. Use more rather than
less pressure. Footman should not touch bench
hole as wheel turns.
Wooden
peg

Step 11: Thread leather tie through bottom of footman;
tie a rm square knot at the very bottom of the footman;
now thread the two ends through front hole on treadle.
Bring each end up through the two remaining holes and
tie off. Connection should be snug.

Having Problems...
You have put your Polonaise together and it doesn’t look right; the wheel doesn’t line up with the yer (yes, you
have read the instructions, but still...). Here is what some spinners have said:
• “you have a serious design aw with the wheel”
• “the wheel does not line up with the yer whorl regardless of the amount of adjusting I do with the thumb
screws”
• “you mean those wheel adjusting screws really work?”
We admit that the manner of hanging the Polonaise wheel and the adjustments that have to be made to line up
the wheel and yer are different from almost all other wheels but it is the way this style of wheel was developed
more than 100 years ago.
Don’ts
• Don’t attempt to line up the wheel and yer with the wheel post thumb screws. The thumb screws are only
used to hang/support the wheel and to adjust the wheel position if the footman touches the hole in the bench.
The wheel is hung correctly when you can see deection of the wheel posts as you turn the thumb screws.
• When assembling the wheel, don’t “play” with the wheel adjusting screws until you are ready to line-up the
wheel with the yer. If you have, you can put them in “neutral” by removing the two locking pegs so you can
reposition the notch in the wheel adjusting screw with the hole for the locking peg.
• Don’t expect the wheel to be parallel with the bench, or the yer to be perpendicular to the bench once every-
thing is aligned. Both will need to be off at a slight angle. See below.
Do’s
• When the wheel is rst mounted and there is no tension on the wheel adjusting screws (you did not play with
them yet, did you?) the wheel will be parallel with the bench. Now you want to “aim” the wheel towards the
whorl on the yer. Do this by grasping both adjusting screws and rotating them, both in towards the wheel or
both out, away, from the wheel. Turn them an equal amount. Watch the rim of the wheel move so you can aim
it at the whorl. You should end up with an imaginary line running from the middle of the wheel rim to the gap
between the whorl and the bobbin. The drive band will track ne.
Voila, wasn’t that easy? Do this once when you change whorls if needed, but otherwise it need not be done
again.
If you have further questions, call your dealer for advice.
Exaggerated view of Polonaise before and after you adjust yer and aim wheel.