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Louet David Assembly instructions

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David
Instructions for assembly
Assembly tips and information............................................................................................................... 1
Instructions for assembly....................................................................................................................... 3
Assembling the brake on the warp beam............................................................................................ 14
Warrantee and contact......................................................................................................................... 17
Version: I_David_V5_EN
1
Assembly tips and information
Please read all the text of these instructions completely. The pictures may seem clear enough to
assemble the loom; however, the text also contains useful information about operating David.
Barrel nuts
To connect parts, barrel nuts are used. These cylinder shaped nuts have a slot on one of the flat
sides. Always insert the barrel nut into the wooden part, so that the side with the slot is visible. The
slot shows the direction of the threaded hole in the nut. With a flat screwdriver or a coin you can
turn the barrel nut so that it is positioned properly to catch the bolt. If it is hard to catch the bolt, it
usually helps to turn the barrel nut 180 degrees. If you inserted a barrel nut incorrectly into the
wood, a magnet can be used to remove it.
Wood screws
Where wood screws are used, we have predrilled holes in the wood. The screw will cut its own
thread into these holes. The screws are very sharp and will cut their own hole if you miss the
predrilled hole during assembly. If this happens, you will find, that after a couple of turns, the screw
will be very difficult to turn. You may even shear the head off of the screw. Also, the parts will be
assembled in the wrong location.
If you have to disassemble and assemble again, makes sure that the wood screw turns in the
same thread again which was cut the first time. Otherwise, after assembling several times, the
thread will be destroyed.
You can find the existing thread by turning the screw counter clock wise, while pushing it into the
wood. When you feel the screw snaps into the thread, turn clock wise. When the screw turns
easily, you know that you have found the thread.
The Texsolv system
Texsolv cord and heddles are Swedish products, crocheted out of polyester yarn. Cotton heddles
have the advantage of being silent in use. Metal heddles, flat or wire, have open eyes. Texsolv
heddles combine these features.
Each shaft of the David is provided with one hundred Texsolv heddles (28cm long). The ties that
are used for the bundles are in hardware bag 3 and can be used to tie bundles again.
A bundle of Texsolv heddles is a continuous line of 100 heddles folded into a zig zag. Each bundle
is fastened in four places. This makes it easy to pass the shaft bars through the loops of the
heddles. If you want to cut the heddles apart, use a sharp pair of scissors to cut the loops at the
top and bottom of the shafts.
Before removing heddles from a shaft, tie them into a bundle. Do not remove the ties from the
bundles, until the heddles have been slipped onto the shaft bars or the loops of the bundles are
inserted by sticks, to protect the heddles from becoming entangled.
Practically, Texsolv cord consists of two cords, which are connected every 12 mm, forming loops
between them. If needed, the cord should be cut between the two loops. To prevent unravelling,
the ends should be singed with a match or lighter.
When we talk about the first or last loop in these instructions, the loop we mean is the one beside
the loop where the cord is cut. The loop that remains after cutting has no strength and should not
be used.
2
The Texsolv cord is adjustable in length by
12 mm steps (ca.1/2”), according to the loops.
For fine adjustment, plastic pegs are used,
inserted into the loops of the cord. Each peg
through the cord will shorten it about 1.5 mm
(1/16”). You will not need more than 7 pegs in
a cord, because with 8 pegs the cord becomes
one cord loop shorter and you can just as well
shorten the cord one loop. In hardware bag 3
are 50 spare pegs.
It is a bit hard to insert a peg when the cord is tight. You can release the tension of the cord by
taking it off from a roller or by disconnecting the cord end.
In some of the pictures in these instructions you see wooden pins; we used these in the past to
shorten the cord.
Marks
The uprights of the middle part of the loom are marked (A and B) at the location where they should
be connected to the corresponding marked sides of the top side rails. This is to prevent you from
making the mistake of assembling the parts backwards or upside down.
Tools
All hardware parts of Louët products are metric. To facilitate assembly, we have included a set of
metric wrenches and a Pozidrive 2 cross head screwdriver (not a Phillips head).
3
Instructions for assembly
We have assembled the castle section of the
David loom in the factory.
Slide the castle section out of the box. The
beater, packed together with the reed and the
shelf of the loom, will come out with the castle
section.
Now open the other end of the box to remove the box containing all the parts listed below, a cross
head screwdriver Pozidrive 2 and ties for the heddles.
−10 treadles
−2 warp beam supports L+R
−2 front posts L=R
−warp beam and cloth beam
−breast beam
−2 lower side rails L=R
−2 upper side rails L+R
−back beam
−foot rail
−beater suspension bars L+R
−hardware bags 1, 2 en 3
−16 warp sticks
−2 lease sticks
−2 apron bars
4
The picture on the previous page shows the
parts of the David 70. Into each of the lower
side rails, eight nylon bearings for the lams are
inserted.
The picture on the right shows the lower side
rails of the David 90 and the additional lam
squares in which the nylon bearings are
inserted.
Open hardware bag 1
The hardware bag contains:
−8 threaded ends m6 X 135 with barrel nut,
washer and cap nut
−2 bolts m6 X 70 with barrel nut and washer
−4 screws 5 X 50 mm (these screws you will
need only for a David 90. Sometimes, for
efficiency reasons, they are also included
in the hardware bag of the David 70)
−set of metric wrenches (you will only need
wrenche 10 for the David assembly)
If your loom is a David 90, use the four 5x50
screws and attach the lam squares to the lower
side rails at the same side where the holes for
the barrel nuts are located.
Position the middle part of the loom with its
back to the wall or a table.
The uprights of the middle part are marked A
and Bat the location where they should be
connected to the corresponding marked sides
of the top side rails.
Unscrew the barrel nuts from the eight
threaded ends, but leave the cap nuts and
washers.
Insert a barrel nut into the top side rail at the
marked end. Remember what you read on the
first page about barrel nuts.
5
Put a threaded end through the hole in the
upright.
Slide the top side rail onto the threaded end
and push its wooden dowels into the holes of
the upright.
Turn the threaded end into the barrel nut, while
positioning the barrel nut, if necessary, using a
coin or a screwdriver.
The lower side rails should be mounted the
same way, their nylon bearings facing the
middle of the loom.
After you mounted all four side rails to the
castle section, position the front posts onto the
dowels of the side rails.
6
Make the connections to the front posts in the
same way you did the connection to the castle
section.
Fasten all eight cap nuts, using the wrench
number 10.
Cut the ties that hold the lams to the back rail.
Position the lams, one by one, with their ends
into the nylon bearings, starting with the rear
lam.
Insert one end of the lam into the bearing,
while holding the other end of the lam just
underneath the side rail. Now bring that other
end to its bearing by bending the lam slightly.
Push the end into the bearing while you move
the lam up and down.
Use the remaining bolts with barrel nut and
washer to attach the beater suspension bars at
the top of the loom.
7
Open hardware bag 2
The hardware bag contains:
−6 axle support blocks
−6 screws 6 X 70
−5 axles 6 X 122 mm
−5 nylon bushings 6-8 X 30
−4 screws5 X 50
−80 screws 4 X 17
Screw the small screws into the eight holes of
each treadle, so far that the screw heads
protrude approximately 5 mm (3/16”) from the
wood. The thread of the screws should just
disappear into the wood.
Assemble the treadles onto the foot rail. The
screw heads on the treadles should point
towards the middle so that the five treadles on
the left side are opposite to the five treadles at
the right side.
Slide two treadles with a nylon bushing in
between on each axle. Use the axle
suspension blocks and the big screws to
assemble these pairs of treadles to the foot
rail.
8
Put the foot rail with the treadles in between
the front posts of the loom and connect these
parts with the four remaining screws.
Check the position the cords that connect the
lams to the lower shaft bars. The location on
the lams should be exactly in the middle.
Replace the connection to the lams if
necessary. Start with the ones in the front and
the back, so the ones in between can be
placed in line.
Open hardware bag 3
The hardware bag contains:
−2 threaded ends 6 X 135 each with 2
washers and 2 wing nuts
−4 screws 5 X 50
−8 screws 4 X 15
−2 ratchets
−2 screws 4,5 X 17 (round head)
−2 screw eyes 6
−2 screws 3 X 20
−2 beam handles with O-ring (If you are
going to have a brake on the warp beam,
you only need one)
−3 O-rings (one is for spare)
−60 tie-up cords for the treadles
−6 beam cords
−50 spare pegs to shorten cords