LaserPerformance Zuma Quick start guide

ZUMA
ZUMA
Rigging Manual
1Unpacking and preparation
2Assembly
3Launching
1. Unpacking and preparation
Useful
knots
to know CLEAT CLOVE HITCHBOWLINESQUARE KNOTFIGURE 8 OR
STOPPER KNOT
Tools: To rig your Zuma the first
time, you will need the following:
White electrical tape•
2 adjustable wrenches and/•
or pliers
Unpack the major parts listed below and lay them out on a soft piece of
ground free of sharp objects. To avoid damaging contents, do not cut
into packaging.
a. Hull
b. Mast kit which includes:
Top section
Bottom section (larger diameter)
Boom (with blocks attached)
c. Boat kit which includes:
Sail in bag
Tiller
Tiller extension
Batten set
Daggerboard
Rudder assembly
Line bag (all lines are labeled)
d.Block package which includes:
Mainsheet block
Double traveler block
Vang block with v-cleat
Small vang block with becket
Shackle
Note: All lines are as long as necessary for maximum purchase. Vanguard Sailboats
encourages you to customize line lengths for your sailing pleasure, but be sure to cut and
burn ends to prevent fraying.
Fogh Marine | 416 251-0384 | www.foghmarine.com | [email protected]

2. Assembly
Vang
e vang system consists of two blocks and a line. e block
with a shackle attaches to the eyestrap on the underside of
the boom. e block with a v-cleat and shackle attaches to
the eyestrap on the mast. Lay out the block with shackle to
the right of the block with a v-cleat, leaving about two feet
between the two. Tie one end of the vang line to the becket
on the block with shackle, run it through the nearest sheave
of the block with v-cleat, back through the sheave in the
block with a shackle, through the second sheave of the block
with v-cleat and out through the cleat. Make sure the line
runs without crosses between the two blocks.
Traveler
Locate the traveler line and double traveler block and tie the
traveler line to the padeye on one side of the stern. read
the other end of the line through the small double block,
and tie it o to the padeye on the opposite side of the stern.
e traveler should be rigged loosely to avoid damaging the
mast.
Mainsheet
Attach the mainsheet block to the eyestrap at the forward
end of the hiking strap. Lay the boom on the deck so that
the block closest to the end of the boom is even with the
stern and the other end points toward the bow. read the
mainsheet through the ratchet block AGAINST the ratchet,
through the forward block on the boom, aft along the boom,
and through the aft block. Lead it through the top of the
double traveler block previously attached to the traveler
line from aft to forward, then take it up to the becket on the
block on the boom and tie it o with a figure 8 knot.
Rudder assembly
Attach the rudder to the tiller using the supplied bolt and
washers. e washers should sit between the tiller and the
rudder, one on each side. For extra security, tape the cover plate of
the tiller extension to the tiller to prevent unexpected extension removal.
Mast assembly and stepping
Insert the collared end of the mast top section into the bot-
tom section until the collar is tight against the aluminum.
Make sure the mast step hole and mast butt are perfectly
clean; any sand, dirt etc. in the mast step will grind into
the gelcoat and eventually damage the boat. Locate the
halyard and feed one end through one of the holes in the cap
on the top of the mast. Bring both ends down the mast and
tie them o to the cleat. Place the mast butt against a solid
object, lift the top end, and walk toward the butt, raising
it hand over hand until the mast stands vertical. Rotate
the mast until the gooseneck (the metal post about two feet
above the butt) points toward the stern. Keep your hands a
good distance apart while lifting the mast over the hole. Let
the mast slide into the step, but do not drop it as you may
damage the step.
Sail assembly
After checking that there are no sharp objects in the area, lay
out the sail near the boat. Insert the battens into the batten
pockets; the short one goes in the top pocket, and the other
two are the same length. Unzip the sleeve in the forward edge
(lu) of the sail and stack the sail into the boat, with the zip-
per piled at the base of the mast. Untie the halyard ends from
the cleat and attach the end that comes o the aft side of the
mast to the webbing strap on the head of the sail. Wrap the
sail sleeve around the mast (with the free end of the halyard
inside) above the gooseneck and engage about three inches of
zipper to hold it in place. Pull on the halyard with your left
hand while zipping the sleeve closed with your right, until
the sail is all the way up. Cleat o the halyard securely.
Boom
Insert the gooseneck pin into the hole in the forward end of
the boom and walk aft, exerting forward pressure to keep it in
place until you attach the outhaul.
Vang: Attach the block with the cleat to the metal fitting on
the mast just above the deck. Attach the shackle to the metal
strap on the underside of the boom, and snug the line.
Outhaul: Tie the bitter end of the outhaul to the plastic fairlead
on the outboard end of the boom. read the outhaul through
the clew grommet in the sail, through the fairlead, and lead
it forward to the cleat on the boom. Tighten it enough so that
it will keep the boom on the gooseneck pin.
Clew Tiedown: Wrap the clew tiedown line twice around
the boom and the clew grommet (inside the outhaul), and
secure it to itself. It should hold the clew tight against the
boom but still allow it to slide forward and aft as you
adjust the outhaul.
Cunningham
Tie a figure 8 knot in one end of the cunningham and thread
the other end forward through the clam cleat and fairlead just
aft of the mast. read the end up through the grommet in the
sail and secure it to the gooseneck.
KEEP THE CUNNINGHAM CLEATED AND TIGHT AT ALL
TIMES, SO THE MAST WILL STAY IN THE BOAT IN THE
EVENT OF A CAPSIZE.
Vang
Mast Assembly
Mainsail
Assembled and Mounted
Clew and Outhaul
Assembled and Mounted
Mainsheet System
Assembled and Mounted
Cunningham
Fogh Marine | 416 251-0384 | www.foghmarine.com | [email protected]

3. Launching
Before Launching
Lock the rudder up and attach it to the boat by passing the tiller
under the traveler and lining up the rudder pin with the pin-
tles. e bottom groove should fit into the bottom pintle, and
when you push down on the spring-loaded pin, the top groove
will slide into the top pintle. Release the spring and lock the
rudder in place, making sure the rudder is securely connected to
the boat at both top and bottom.
Once in the water, slide the daggerboard into the daggerboard
trunk. (You will have to turn the boat sideways to the wind to
keep the boom clear.) Drop it down as much as depth permits,
and push the daggerboard retainer against the board.
Unrigging
When approaching shallow water, pull up the daggerboard as
much as possible without obstructing the boom. After you hop
out of the boat, remove the daggerboard and place it in the boat.
To remove the rudder, push down on the pin and lift it o.
Once the boat is on land, remove the vang from the boom, undo
the outhaul and clew tie down line, and drop the sail. If the
boat is staying put, you can leave the mast and boom on the
boat; just tighten up the mainsheet so that the boom won’t
separate from the hull. If the boat is traveling some where, you
must remove the mast and boom.
e following items can remain assembled:
Rudder/Tiller•
Vang (leave attached to the mast)•
Cunningham (leave attached to boat•
Outhaul (leave attached to boom)•
Sail care tips
All gear should be rinsed, if sailing in salt water, and the sail
should be allowed to dry before it is rolled up. Removing the bat-
tens from the pockets between uses will increase the life of the
elastic that holds them. Make sure the window is not creased
when you fold the sail.
Daggerboard Retainer
NOW YOU ARE
READY TO SAIL
FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY, MAKE
SURE YOU ARE WEARING
APPROPRIATE CLOTHING FOR
THE CONDITIONS, AND PLEASE
OBTAIN PROPER TRAINING
BEFORE SAILING. HAVE FUN AND
DON’T FORGET YOUR
LIFEJACKET!
Fogh Marine | 416 251-0384 | www.foghmarine.com | [email protected]

Owner Information
hull identification number
purchased from date of purchase
contact name phone #
address:
city / state / county zip / postal code
hull color: sail #:
registration information (if applicable)
trailer vin #
license plate number state register in
registration number state / county registered in
insurance information
maintenance
Care, Maintenance and Service of your LaserPerformance
Product
Before rigging your Zuma, read and familiarize yourself with the rigging manual. Failure to adhere to these guide-
lines could invalidate your warranty.
Maintenance
• Keep the equipment clean by frequently flushing with fresh water. In corrosive atmospheres, stainless parts may
show discoloration/brown staining around screw holes and rivets. is is not serious and can be removed with
a fine abrasive.
• Excess water should be removed from the hull.
• Ropes, rigging and fittings should be checked at regular intervals for wear and tear, including winch gear.
• All moving parts should be lightly lubricated to avoid jamming, i.e., McLube, dry Teflon or a dry silicone
based spray. Do not use oil.
• Inspect shackles, pins and clevis rings and tape up to stop snagging sails, ropes and clothing and to prevent
them from coming undone.
• When refastening screws do not over tighten as this may strip the thread and do not reuse Nyloc nuts more
than three times.
• Damaged or worn parts should be replaced.
• Sails should be thoroughly washed down with fresh water, dried and stored in a dry place.
Trailers and Trolleys/Dollies
• It is highly recommended that a trolley/dolly is used to launch and recover your boat. Dragging your hull up onto a
beach or slip way will wear away the gel coat or polyethylene and damage the boat. Also, the hull should not be left
on a pebble beach as the hull skin could be dented.
• Trailers should be rinsed with fresh water and checked at regular intervals. It is recommended that trailers be
serviced annually. e trailer and road base should never be immersed in water.
• Trailers and trolleys supplied by LaserPerformance are designed to transport the hull in the best possible manner
to avoid damaging the hull. For instance, LaserPerformance does not recommend support hulls on rollers except
on the keel line and only where there is a reinforced keelson. We also recommend gunwale hung trolleys for our
smaller products. Hulls supported by a trolley bunk or wide strap must have the ability to drain water away from
the hull. Trolley bunks padded with carpet or foam can cause blistering in the gel coat and changes to the hull
color. Please do not transport your LaserPerformance product on a trailer or trolley that has not been specifically
designed for the product. Hulls damaged through using an incorrectly designed or wrongly set up trailer or trolley
are not covered under warranty.
• When securing your boat to a trailer for transport be very careful that ratchet straps and ropes are not over
tightened and that there is sucient padding under the strap or rope to prevent the hull/deck from being damaged
through abrasion or pressure.
• Top covers must not be allowed to“flap” when driving at speed. is can abrade the surface of the hull and
damage it. It is recommended if you are towing and plan to use your top cover that an under cover is fitted first
to prevent cover flap damage to the top sides of the hull.
• Repairs to the polyethylene or GRP hulls should be undertaken by persons with the relevant equipment and skills.
Contact LaserPerformance for advice.
Storage
• Your boat should always be tied down securely to the ground when not in use.
• UV light will cause fading to some components and fittings. A cover is recommended to reduce the UV degradation.
• Do not leave the rig under tension when not sailing or during storage.
• Care must be taken to support the hull adequately if storing on racking or similar. Any sustained point loading
could permanently dent or distort the hull.
• Under covers for LaserPerformance products should be produced from a breathable or semi breathable fabric to
allow moisture to evaporate away from the hull. is is essential to prevent damage to the hull skin. Also, the hull
should never be left in the under cover wet or damp. A combination of moisture and heat over an extended period
can also damage the hull. e under cover is designed to protect the hull when being transported and should be
removed when the hull is being stored. Typical damage includes small bubbles or blisters, excessive print through
of glass reinforcement, foam or wood and color change.
• Rudders and centerboards must never be stored wet in carry/combo bags. is can cause blistering, print through
and warpage.
• All our GRP products are designed to be dry sailed. In other words stored on dry land. If you intend to leave your
boat on a mooring for any length of time it is essential that you apply an osmosis barrier coat. LaserPerformance
can recommend a suitable product.
On Water
• When wearing a trapeze harness, take particular care when climbing on to the centerboard and back into the
boat after a capsize. e trapeze harness hook could easily damage the hull or deck.
On Water Towing
• Towing your LaserPerformance product at high speed (10 – 20 knots) behind a rib or power boat can seriously
damage the hull. Boats damaged in this manner are not covered by the warranty. LaserPerformance recommends
a maximum towing speed of 6 knots.
Fogh Marine | 416 251-0384 | www.foghmarine.com | [email protected]

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LaserPerformance reserves the right to make
design and/or specification changes to any
of their products as part of their continuous
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Fogh Marine | 416 251-0384 | www.foghmarine.com | [email protected]