LaserPerformance Laser Series Quick start guide

LASER 4.7 LASER RADIAL LASER
LASER
Rigging Guide
1. Unpacking and Preparation: Laser, Radial & Laser 4.7
2. Parts of the Laser
3. Hardware Location
4. Hardware Installation
5. Rigging the Traveler
6. Rigging the Mast
7. Stepping the Mast
8. Rigging the Outhaul
9. Rigging the Clew Tie-down
10. Rigging the Vang
11. Rigging the Cunningham
12. Daggerboard Retainer
13. Mast Retainer Line
14. Rigging the Rudder
15. Mainsheet
16. Sail Number Application
17. Installation of Optional Mainsheet Side Cleats
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e Laser is a very unique boat that can accommodate
many dierent sized sailors and abilities, due to its three
interchangeable rigs. e Laser, the Radial and the
4.7 all use the same hull and equipment with the
exception of the lower mast and sail.
We suggest that you read through this guide to better
familiarize yourself with the parts and rigging of your
new boat. If you have any questions please contact your
dealer or call LaserPerformance Customer Service.
is is a comprehensive rigging guide for the Standard
and Race configured Laser. If you have a Laser XD, please
refer to the included XD instructions in your XD kit for
instructions on XD specific components and rigging.
Please note that in our eort for continuous improvement
the exact color and spec of Laser parts may vary from those
in the below images.
Depending on which Laser you have selected (Laser, Radial or Laser 4.7)
you will have one of the following sails and corresponding lower masts
located in your delivery kit.
Locate your delivery kit. Depending on which model you
have purchased (Standard, Race or XD) there will be a
few dierences in some of the hardware. e dierences
between the three models are the cunningham, outhaul,
vang and tiller extension. Using images 1 or 2 on the
following pages, identify the contents of your kit. To avoid
damaging the contents, be sure not to cut into the
packaging inside the box.
Above from left to right: Laser lower
mast, Radial lower mast, and Laser
4.7 lower mast.
From left to right: Laser sail, Radial sail, Laser
4.7 Sail. New Race and XD models come with a
rolled sail
Your boat rigged will resemble one of the lasers shown above.
From left to right: Laser, Radial, and Laser 4.7.
Congratulations on
the purchase of your
new Laser!
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Useful
knots
to know
Gunwale Cockpit Daggerboard Boom Vang Starboard SideMainsheet
Rudder
Stern
Traveler
Tiller
Leach
Clew
Foot of the Sail
Mast
Port Side
Tack
Lu
Bow
Port: Left side of the boat
when looking forward
Starboard: Right side of
the boat when looking
forward
Gunwale: Upper edge of a
boat’s side
Leeward: Direction away
from the wind
Windward: Direction from
which the wind is coming
Nautical Terminology
cleat clove hitchbowlinesquare knotfigure 8 or
stopper knot
Boom
2. Parts of the Laser1. Unpacking and Preparation:
Standard Delivery Kit
1Sail numbers
2Line bag
3Gorilla tiller & extension
4Rudder
5 Daggerboard
6 Battens (3)
7Boom
8Upper mast
9Lower mast
Race Delivery Kit
1Sail numbers
2Line bag
3Gorilla tiller & extension
4Rudder
5Daggerboard
6Battens (3)
7Boom
8Upper mast
9Lower mast
10 Cleat base with cleats
11 Lower vang block/cleat
assembly
12 Mainsheet ratchet block
10 Large traveler block
11 Small traveler block
12 Large vang block
13 Small vang block
14 Vang key
15 Mainsheet ratchet block
16 Spring
17 Bullseye fairlead
18 Clam cleat
13 Spring
14 Forkhead block base
15 16 mm forkhead blocks (2)
16 Large traveler block
17 Small traveler block
18 Vang key
19 Pin and ring
20 Double micro block
with becket (2)
21 Small double block with
becket
22 Micro block with becket (2)
23 Micro single block (2)
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4. Hardware Installation
Laser Standard Models
1. In the delivery kit locate the bullseye
fairlead and the clam cleat. Unscrew the two
screws located by the mast step (figure 3).
Align the bullseye fairlead over the two holes
and screw into place (figure 4).
Reminder: Before replacing the screws be sure to dip
them into a silicon based sealant to allow for a water
tight and secure fit.
2. Unscrew the set of screws located in front
of the daggerboard well. Align the holes of
the cam cleat and screw into place (figure 5).
Be sure that the open end of the cleat is facing
towards the cockpit (figure 6).
Reminder: Before replacing the screws be sure to dip
them into a silicon based sealant to allow for a water-
tight and secure fit.
3. Locate the ratchet block and spring from
the delivery kit. In the cockpit, at the forward
end of the hiking strap, locate the eyestrap
(figure 7).
4. Remove the shackle from the bottom of the
ratchet block and place it around the eyestrap
(figure 7).
5. Place the spring over the eyestrap, and
compress. While the spring is compressed,
attach the block to the shackle with the pin
and ring (figure 8).
Tip: To assist in keeping the spring
compressed while attaching the block
to the shackle, try compressing the
spring and tie with string or zip-tie.
Place the tied spring over the eyestrap
and attach the block. en untie the
string/cut zip-tie to release the spring.
3. Hardware Location
ere are a few pieces of hardware that you
will need to install on your new hull before
continuing to rig your Laser. Locate the two
sets of screws that are positioned on the deck
of the boat (figure a, far right image). One set
of screws will be forward of the daggerboard
well (figure 1) while the other set will be aft of
the mast step (figure 2).
Tip: Before replacing the screws be sure to dip them into
a silicon based sealant to allow for a water-tight and
secure fit. bow eye
mast stepdaggerboard well
ratchet block eyestrap
hiking strapclam cleat
Figure A
figure 9 figure 10
figure 11 figure 12
figure 13 figure 14
Hardware Installation
Laser Race Models
1.e new deck fittings can be retro-fitted on
all boats without any structural changes.
(figure 9). First take out the screws on the
cunningham cleat and the downhaul eye.
(figure 10, 11 & 12).
Reminder: Before replacing the screws be sure to dip
them into a silicon based sealant to allow for a water-
tight and secure fit.
2. Place the fittings over the existing screw
holes and screw tight. (Figure 13 & 14).
3. Locate the ratchet block and spring from
the delivery kit. In the cockpit, at the forward
end of the hiking strap, locate the eyestrap.
4. Remove the shackle from the bottom of the
ratchet block and place it around the eyestrap
(figure 15).
5. Place the spring over the eyestrap and com-
press. While the spring is compressed,attach
the block to the shackle with the pin and ring
(figure 16).
Tip: To assist in keeping the spring
compressed while attaching the block
to the shackle, try compressing the
spring and tie with string or zip-tie.
Place the tied spring over the eyestrap
and attach the block. en untie the
string/cut zip-tie to release the spring.
figure 1 | daggerboard well figure 2 | mast step
figure 3 figure 4
figure 5 figure 6 | open end
figure 7 figure 8
Here is a list of tools that
we recommend you have
in order to assemble your
new Laser…
• phillips head screwdriver
• silicone sealant
• white electrical tape
• utility knife
figure 15
figure 16
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5. Rigging the Traveler:
Alternative 1
Figure B
Port side of the line goes
through the clam cleat.
Tie o the starboard line
with a bowline.
Figure C
1. Locate the traveler line and small
traveler block from the delivery kit.
On the stern of the boat locate the two
fairleads (figure b).
2. Run one end of traveler line through
the starboard fairlead (from bow to stern,
figure 17), then through the small traveler
block (figure 18) and continue through
the port side fairlead (from stern to bow,
figure 18).
3. Make a loop in the port side of the
line as if you were going to tie a bowline
(figure 19). Keeping in mind that the free
end of the port side line will be cleated
o. Take the starboard end of the line and
complete the bowline by going through
the port loop (figure 20).
4. Continue the tail end of the port side
line through the cleat and tie o with a
bowline handle (figure 21).
clam cleat
port
fairlead starboard
fairlead
small traveler block
figure 21
figure 19
figure 20
figure 17 figure 18 figure 22
figure 23 figure 24
figure 25
1. Locate the traveler line and small
traveler block from the delivery kit.
On the stern of the boat locate the two
fairleads (figure c).
2. Run one end of traveler line through
the starboard fairlead (from bow to stern),
then through the small traveler block and
continue through the port side fairlead
(from stern to bow).
3. Tie a bowline in the port side of the
traveler line (figure 22). Lead the
starboard end of the line through the
bowline and pull until snug (figure 23).
4. With the starboard end of the line tie an
overhand knot to secure the line (figure 24).
5. With the tail end of the line, lead it
through the cleat and tie o with a bowline
handle (figure 25).
Note: ese are the two manufacturer-suggested
methods for rigging your traveler. Many other
methods exist. Ask around, experiment and find
the method you enjoy most!
Rigging the Traveler:
Alternative 2
clam cleat
port fairlead
small traveler block
port
side
bowline
starboard
side
bow
stern
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Attaching the Boom
1. Before attaching the boom locate the
outhaul line from the delivery kit line bag.
Insert the gooseneck pin into the forward
end of the boom and walk aft, exerting
pressure towards the mast, to keep it
in place (figure 30b).
6. Rigging the Mast
Standard and Race Models
1. Locate the sail, battens, boom, upper
and lower mast from your delivery kit
Remove your sail from the sail bag and
have the three battens handy. Your battens
should comprise of: Two long and one short
(figure 26).
Tip: When unfolding sail, make sure that the area
is free of sharp objects that could damage the sail!
To ensure the batten tips do not fall o inside the
pocket when the battens are removed, it is sug-
gested that you tape the batten tips.
2. Unfold the sail. Starting from the head
of the sail locate the top batten pocket. In-
sert the smallest of the three battens into
the top batten pocket (figure 27).
3. Insert the battens so that the curved end
is inserted first. When inserting the
batten into the pocket, you will be applying
pressure against elastic located in the end
of the pocket. As you press against
the elastic, slide the batten in and down
so that the tip rests in the closed end of
the pocket (figure 28). To remove: press the
end into the elastic, and slide the tip to
the open end of the pocket.
4. Continue down the sail, inserting the
two remaining battens.
Note: Before folding the sail make sure to remove
the battens.
5. Slide the top section of the mast into the
lower section until the top sections plastic
collar is snug against the aluminum of the
lower section. Make sure arrows line up.
6. Find the opening in the sail sleeve
located at the foot of the sail (figure 29).
Slide the sleeve of the sail over the mast,
aligning the cunningham grommet with
the gooseneck and removing any twists in
the sleeve (figure 30a).
Tip: e head of the sail does not rotate easily on
the masthead, so it is suggested to align the head
of the sail with the gooseneck before stepping
the mast (figure 30a).
figure 26
figure 27 | pocket opening
figure 28 | closed end
figure 29 | class sail button, cunningham grommet
figure 30a: Stepping the Mast
7. Stepping the Mast
Standard and Race Models
1. Make sure the bow of the boat is pointing
into the wind and that their are No Overhead
Electrical Wires in the Area! Also make sure
that the mast step hole and mast butt are
perfectly clean; any sand or dirt in the mast
step will grind into the gelcoat and can
damage the mast step.
2. Place the mast butt against a flat solid
object. By placing a towel or piece of
cardboard on the ground it will help
prolong the life of the plastic mast butt.
3. Lift the mast from the head of the sail
and walk toward the mast butt, raising
the mast hand over hand until vertical.
4. Make sure that the gooseneck is facing
the stern of the boat before lifting.
5. Keeping your hands a good distance
apart, lift the mast over the mast step hole
(figure 30a).
6. Allow the mast to carefully slide down
into the step. Do not drop the mast into the
step for it will cause damage!
7. Remove any wraps in the sail sleeve.
figure 30b | boom, gooseneck pin
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8. Rigging the Outhaul: Laser Standard Models Rigging the Outhaul: Laser Race Models
1. Locate the outhaul line from the deliv-
ery kit line bag. Tie a bowline with the
outhaul line to the fairlead located at the
end of the boom (figure 31).
2. Lead the line through the grommet in
the clew of the sail and then back through
the fairlead (figure 32).
3. Lead the line forward along the boom
and cleat o at the clam cleat on the top of
the boom (figure 33). Tie a bowline in the
free end of the line (figure 34).
9. Rigging the Clew Tie Down: Laser Standard Models
1. Locate the clew tie down line from the
delivery kit line bag.
2. Wrap the clew tie down line through
the clew grommet and around the boom
two times (figure 35) and secure it with a
square knot (figure 36). Be sure that the
line runs on the inside of the outhaul.
Tip: e clew tie down should hold the clew of the
sail close to the boom yet it should still be able to
slide forward and aft when adjusting the outhaul.
figure 35 | outhaul
1.Check the items in the pack and lay them on
the deck (figure 37).
2. Dead end a pulley block to the longer grey
line (Spec 12) (figure 38).
3. Measure 9 inches/23 cm from the end of the
pulley block and tie a bowline loop, with the
grey line, around the boom. Make sure you
can get two fingers between the boom and the
loop (figure 39).
4. Take the non-pulley end of the grey line
and thread it through the outhaul end fitting
on the boom (figure 40).
5. Pass the same end through the pulley hook
block (figure 41).
6. Take it back to the outhaul boom end fit-
ting and dead end it to this (figure 42 & 43).
7. Now dead end the pink line to the outhaul
cleat (figure 44).
8. Take the other end of the pink line and
thread it through the pulley which is
attached to the grey line (figure 45).
9. is is how it should look. Once you have
done this you will not have do it again as it
is left on the boom permanently (figure 46).
10. Now attach a pulley to the bottom sec-
tion. Put the mast with the sail into the mast
hole, take the short pink line and thread one
end through the small hole in the gooseneck
(figure 47). Take both ends of the pink line
and thread them through the top of a pulley
block (figure 48). Now separate both ends and
take them around the back of the mast and tie
them together with a reef knot (figure 49).
11. Make sure the pulley sits at the bottom of
the gooseneck fitting (figure 50). is fitting
can be left on permanantly and the line is
taped on so that the ends of the rope are kept
tidy and out of the way (figure 51).
figure 37
figure 39
figure 41
figure 45 figure 46
figure 44
figure 47
figure 50 figure 51
figure 48 figure 49
figure 42 figure 43
figure 38
figure 40
figure 31
figure 33
figure 32 | grommet, clew
figure 34
figure 36
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Rigging the Outhaul: Laser Race Models
1.Now we can attach the sail to the boom with
the hook as shown (figure 52).
2. Put the boom on the gooseneck and pull the
pink line so that the pulley is pulled close to
the outhaul cleat (figure 53).
3. With the pink line, tie a bowline loop 4
inches back from the kicker boom fitting,
around the boom. Make sure you can get two
fingers between the boom and the loop (figure
54).
4. Take the end of the pink line and pass it
over the top of the cunningham line and
thread it through the pulley on the mast
down towards the deck (figure 55).
5. read the pink line from front to back
through the deck pulley (figure 56). Pass it
through the deck cleat, making a rope handle
at the end (figure 57, see previous instruc-
tions).
6. Finally tie the clew of the sail down with
the short grey line in the usual way. Remem-
ber to tie it very tight so that the bottom of
the sail is as close as possible to the boom
(figure 58).
7. To allow the outhaul to be let out with ease,
a piece of shock cord can be attached to the
clew tie down (figure 59). is is optional.
Dead eye the shock cord to the clew tie down.
Dead eye the other end of the shock cord to the
outhaul boom cleat (figure 60).
Note: Laser 4.7 sailors will need to make the following
amendments to the rigging of the outhaul: Attach the
inboard end of the return elastic to the forward boom block
eye. Remove the loop around the boom from the Spec 12
(outboard) rope. e loop is not required for the 4.7. Adjust
the loop around the boom in the pink Spectra rope so that it
rests at the kicker key when at MAX outhaul on.
figure 52
figure 54
figure 56
figure 58
figure 60
figure 59
figure 53
figure 55
figure 57
9. Rigging the Clew Tie Down: Laser Race Models
1. Locate the clew tie down line from the
delivery kit line bag.
2. Wrap the clew tie down line through
the clew grommet and around the boom
two times and secure it with a square knot
(figure 61). Be sure that the line runs on
the inside out the outhaul.
Option: You can purchase (through your local
dealer) a clew tie down strap (figure 62). Release
the Velcro so that the strap is straight. Wrap the
longer end of the strap (the length without the Laser
logo) around the boom and through the d-ring.
Continue the strap around the boom and secure the
Velcro. read the Velcro strap with the Laser logo
through the clew grommet and secure.
figure 61 figure 62 figure 63
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10. Rigging the Vang: Laser Standard Models Rigging the Vang: Laser Race Models
1. Locate the vang line from the delivery kit
line bag. Retrieve the two vang blocks and
vang key from the delivery kit.
2. Take the smaller of the two vang blocks
and remove the pin and ring. Insert the
vang key and secure with the pin and ring
(figure 64). Hook the key into the vang slot
on the underside of the boom (figure 65).
3. Use the provided pin and ring to attach
the larger of the two vang blocks to the vang
tang, located below the gooseneck on the
mast (figure 66). Make sure that the cleat is
on the bottom side of the block.
4. Take one end of the vang line and tie a
bowline to the becket on the small vang
block on the boom (figure 67).
5. Lead the line to the forward vang block
and through the upper sheave of the large
vang block on the mast (figure 68).
6. Lead the line back up and around the
small vang block on the boom and back
down to the large mast vang block
(figure 69).
7. Lead the line around the inner block and
down through the teeth of the cleat located
on the underside of the block (figure 70). Tie
o the free end of the line with a bowline
(figure 71).
complete vang
figure 71
figure 64 | becket
figure 65
vang key
sm vang block
figure 66| cleat, vang tang
figure 67
figure 68 | upper sheave
figure 69
figure 70
1. Check the items in the pack and lay them
on the deck (figure 72).
2. Fit the bottom vang fitting onto the lower
mast vang plate.You will need to use
a screwdriver and pliers (figure 73).
3. Take the grey rope (Spec 12) and dead end
one end to the top single pulley block (figure
74). Put block into boom vang fitting (figure
75).
4. Take the other end of the grey line and
thread it through the middle pulley of the
bottom vang, from top to bottom (figure 76).
5.en take it through the top block, from
bottom to top (figure 77). Attach the end of
the grey line to the shackle of the double
pulley block using the dead end method
(figure 78).
6. Take the blue line (5 mm Excel Racing)
and dead end one end to the bottom of the
double block (figure 79). With the other end,
thread it through the starboard side pulley
block on the bottom vang fitting from top to
bottom (figure 80). en thread it through
the double pulley block on the starboard
side, from bottom to top (figure 81).
Note: Starboard side is the righthand side of the boat
when facing towards the bow, i.e. front of the boat.
7. Take the rope to the bottom vang fitting
and thread it through the port side pulley
block from top to bottom (figure 82). Take
it back up to the double pulley block and
thread it through the port side pulley, from
bottom to top (figure 83).
8. Now take the rope down to the bottom
vang fitting, thread it through the last cen-
tral pulley, remove from top to bottom and
pass it through the metal eye (figure 84).
9. Lastly pass the rope through the vang
cleat and make a rope handle near the cleat.
Leave a long tail on the rope (figure 85).
10. Dead end the end of the rope on the
centerboard as shown. is will allow you
to easily grab hold of the vang rope while
sailing (figure 86).
figure 72
figure 85
figure 74
figure 76
figure 78
figure 73
figure 75
figure 79 figure 80 figure 81
figure 77
figure 82 figure 83
figure 86
figure 84
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11. Rigging the Cunningham: Laser Standard Models Rigging the Cunningham: Laser Race Models
1. Locate the cunningham line from
the delivery kit.
2. Tie a bowline around the vang tang
(figure 87).
3. Lead the line up through the
cunningham grommet in the sail (figure
88) and back down to the bullseye fairlead
on the deck (figure 89).
4. Lead the line through the clam cleat
and tie a bowline in the tail (figure 90). figure 87 | vang tang
figure 88 | grommet
figure 89 | bullseye fairlead
figure 90
complete cunningham
1. Check the items in the pack and lay
them on the deck (figure 91).
2. Dead eye the grey line (Spec 12) onto a
pulley block (figure 92).
3. Dead end the yellow line onto the other
pulley block (figure 93).
4. Take the grey line through the cun-
ningham cringle eye on the sail and take
the rope down to the kicker mast fitting
and tie a knot around it. Adjust the line so
that the pulley block is as close to the cun-
ningham eye as possible (figure 94).
5. Take the end of the yellow line through
the pulley block which is attached to the
grey line, as shown and pull it through
until both blocks sit next to each other
(figure 95 & 96).
6. Take the yellow line down to the kicker
mast fitting and tie a knot around it.
Make sure that the two blocks are still sit-
ting next to each other (figure 98).
7. Pass the end of the yellow line through
the remaining pulley block by the cun-
ningham eye on the sail (figure 98 & 99).
8. Now take it down to the deck fitting and
pass it through the deck pulley from front
to back (figure 100).
9.Finally, take the end of the yellow line
through the deck cleat and make a line
handle (figure 101).
figure 91
figure 93 figure 94
figure 96
figure 99figure 98
figure 95
figure 101
figure 97
figure 100
figure 92
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