LaserPerformance OPTIMIST Quick start guide

OPTIMIST
OPTIMIST
Rigging Manual
1. Nautical Terminology
2. Contents of Packaging
3. Attaching the Mainsheet Blocks
4. Attaching the Sail
5. Rigging the Outhaul
6. Stepping the Mast
7. Mast Tie-in
8. Boom Retainer
9. Assembling the Vang
10. Attaching the Painter
11. Rigging the Sprit Halyard
12. Attaching the Sprit
13. Rigging the Mainsheet Bridle
14. Rigging the Mainsheet Bridle Safety
15. Rigging the Mainsheet
16. Rigging the Rudder
17. Rigging the Daggerboard Retainers
18. Attaching the Hiking Strap Lifter
19. De-rigging
20. Sail Care

Port: Left side of the boat when looking forward
Starboard: Right side of the boat when looking forward
Gunwale: Upper edge of a boat’s side
Leeward: Direction away from the wind
Windward: Direction from which the wind is coming
1. Nautical Terminology
Useful
knots
to know CLEAT CLOVE HITCHBOWLINESQUARE KNOTFIGURE 8 OR
STOPPER KNOT
Optimist Rigging Instructions
Congratulations on the purchase of your new LaserPerformance Optimist! We suggest that you
read through this guide to better familiarize yourself with the parts and rigging of your new
boat. If you have any questions please contact your dealer or call LaserPerformance’s customer
service department, contact information can be found on the back cover of this guide.
Head of Sail
Sprit
Sail
Leach
Lu
Mast
Sail Tie
Foot of the Sail
Clew Tack
Boom
Outhaul
Tiller with Extension
Rudder Mainsheet
Halyard
Vang
Daggerboard
Mainsheet Blocks
Rudder
Stern
Mainsheet
Mainsheet Bridle
Hiking Strap
Daggerboard Trunk
Airbag Straps
Airbag
Mast wart
Bow
Mast Collar
1. Glossary
Aft: Back of the boat
Backstay: Support at the back of the boat to the top of the mast
used to control the mast bend, and support the mast.
Bow: Front of the boat
Burgee: Wind indicator, usually a flag
Batten: A thin stiening strip in the sail to support the leach
Boom: A spar at the foot of the sail
Cleat: A fitting used for holding/securing ropes
Clew: Back lower corner of a sail
Cunningham: An eye in the sail above the tack of the sail
Foot: Bottom of the sail
Forestay: e wire supporting the mast at the bow of the boat
Gennaker: Isometric sail hoisted when sailing downwind
Gennaker Pole: e pole that extends from the bow to fly the gennaker
sail.
Gunwale: e outermost edge of the boat
Gudgeon: Fitting on the transom and rudder used to hang rudder
Head: Top of sail
Halyard: A rope or wire used to lower or hoist sails
Jib: Front sail
Jib Sheet: Control rope for the jib
Leech: Trailing edge of the sail
Lu:e front edge of the sail
Mast Heel: e fitting at the base of the mast
Mast step: e fitting on the boat where the mast heel is located
Spreaders: Metal struts placed in pairs to support the mast
sideways and control the bend in the mast.
Stern: Back of the boat
Stem fitting: Stainless fitting at the bow to which the forestay
attaches.
Tack: Forward lower corner of the sail
Traveller: e track that runs side to side that controls the mainsail
sideways in the boat. Used in conjunction with the mainsheet.
Vang: Otherwise known as the kicking strap.
Here is a list of tools
needed to assemble
your new Optimist:
WRENCHES ELECTRICAL
TAPE
SCREWDRIVERSUTILITY KNIFEPLIERS

2. Contents of Packaging
figure 12
Your new LaserPerformance Optimist will come with three
boxes. One box for the spar set, one for the blades and one for
the delivery kit containing the sail, block and lines.
Use caution while opening the boxes to avoid damaging the
contents. Be sure not to cut into the packaging inside of the box.
2.
3.
4.
1.
2.
3. 4. 6.
5.
7.
1.
Locate the box labeled delivery kit (figure 1).
Inside you will find:
1. Line bag
2. Country sail letters/numbers
3. Hardware
4. Sail with sail bag and digital 8
sail numbers
Contents of bag # 3 (figure 2)
1. Micro bullet block
2. Carbo block with becket (2)
3. Shackle, pin and ring
4. Compression spring
5. Mainsheet ratchet block
6. Mainsheet snap shackle with
strap and ring
7. Daggerboard retainer strap
Locate the box containing the spars.
Inside you will find (figure 3)
1. Mast
2. Sprit
3. Boom
Be sure to remove all of the packaging
(plastic, bubble wrap, zip ties) before
continuing to rig your Optimist. Use
caution when removing the zip ties so you
do not to scratch the spars.
Locate the box containing the blades
(Figure 4). Inside you will find:
1. Tiller with extension
2. Rudder
3. Daggerboard
figure 1
figure 2
1.
2.
3.
figure 3
figure 4
1.
2. 3.
3. Attaching the
Mainsheet Blocks:
1. Locate the bag from the delivery kit
containing the mainsheet blocks. Remove
the mainsheet ratchet blocks, compression
spring, 1 carbo block and the shackle, pin
and ring (figure 5).
2. ere are two eyestraps located on the
cockpit floor, aft of the daggerboard thwart
(figure 6). With the shackle pin and ring,
attach the carbo block to the forward most
eyestrap (figure 7).
3. Remove the shackle pin and ring from the
mainsheet ratchet block. Loop the shackle
beneath the aft eyestrap and place the
compression spring over it (figure 8).
4. While compressing the spring, place the
mainsheet ratchet block at the top of the
spring and align the hole in the bottom
of the block with the holes in the shackle.
Secure the ratchet block to the shackle
with the pin and ring (figure 9).
figure 5 figure 6
figure 7 figure 8 figure 9
4. Attaching the Sail:
1. Retrieve the mast, boom, sail, corner ties and sail ties.
2. Attach the boom jaw to the mast right above the sprit
halyard cleat (figure 10). When laying the mast and boom
down, be sure that the area is free of sharp objects that
could damage the sail.
3. Unwrap the sail. Lay the sail down over the mast and
boom, aligning the mast with the lu of the sail and the
boom with the foot of the sail.
4. Locate the sail ties. Starting at the mast, loop the ties
around the mast and through the grommet in the sail.
Secure with a square knot (figure 11). Tie the sail ties
tight enough that you can slip one finger between the
sail and the mast (figure 12).
5. Locate the corner ties. Starting at the top of the mast,
lead one of the corner ties through the top eyestrap then
through the top grommet in the sail. Wrap the corner
tie around twice before securing with a square knot
(figure 13). Repeat for lower eyestrap.
6. Using two more corner ties, secure the tack of the sail
to the boom and the mast (figure 14).
7. Be sure to adjust the corner ties in order to get the red
mark on the lu of the sail to fit between the two blue
stripes on the mast (figure 15).
8. Continue tying the sail ties onto the boom. Tie the sail
ties tight enough that you can place two fingers between
the boom and the sail (figure 16).
9. Tie o the last corner tie to the clew of the sail.
5. Rigging the Outhaul:
1. Locate the outhaul line. Tie a stopper knot in one end.
Lead the free end of the line through the port hole in the
boom end cap (figure 17).
2. Continue the line through the clew grommet and back
through the open hole in the boom cap (figure 18).
3. Lead the line forward along the starboard side of the
boom and through the v-cleat (figure 19). Cleat o and tie
a stopper knot in the end of the line.
figure 10 figure 11
figure 13
Boom Jaw
Spirit Halyard
Cleat
Mainsheet Block
Carbo Block
figure 14 figure 16
figure 15
figure 17 figure 18
figure 19
Rail Sail
Line
Lines on
the Mast
Grommet

figure 30
figure 20
6. Stepping the Mast:
1. Lift the mast with sail and boom attached.
2. Align the mast butt over the mast collar.
Gently slide the mast through the thwart and
into the metal mast step (figure 20).
3. Make sure that the sprit halyard cleat is
facing the bow while the cleat for the vang
cleat is facing the stern (figure 21).
7. Mast Tie-in:
1. Locate the mast tie-in line. e mast tie-in
eyestrap is located on the thwart forward of the
mast (figure 22).
2. Tie a luggage knot with the mast tie-in line
around the eyestrap (figure 22).
3. Lead the ends of the line around the mast.
Cross the port line over the starboard line right
above the vang cleat (figure 23).
4. Lead the two ends back around to the front
of the mast and secure with a square knot
(figure 24).
8. Boom Retainer:
1. Locate boom retaining line from the line bag.
Tie a stopper knot in one end of the line. Lead
the line up through the starboard hole in the
boom jaw (figure 25).
2. Lead the free end of the line around to the port
side hole in the boom jaw. read the line down
through the hole and secure with a stopper knot
(figure 26).
3. Located just above the boom jaw, centered on
the mast is the mast retainer peg (figure 27).
4. Twist the boom retainer line until the line is
taught when placed over the peg (figure 28).
figure 21
figure 22 figure 23
figure 24
figure 25 figure 26
figure 27 figure 28
Here are a few safety
products that we
suggest you have to
keep you safe! Refer
to the Optimist class
rules as most of these
items are required
for racing. MAKE SURE YOUR
BAILER AND PADDLE ARE
SECURED INTO THE BOAT
AND OUT OF YOUR WAY.
ALWAYS WEAR
YOUR LIFEJACKET!
DON’T RELY ON THE
BREEZE, HAVE A
PADDLE.
TO KEEP WATER OUT
OF THE BOAT, HAVE
A BAILER HANDY.
9. Assembling the Vang:
1. Locate the vang wire attached to the
forward boom button (Figure 29).
2. Retrieve the vang line from the line bag.
With a bowline, tie the vang line to the thimble
located at the end of the vang wire (Figure 30).
3. Lead the vang line up through the clam cleat
located on the mast just above the thwart
(Figure 31).
4. Cleat o. Tie a stopper knot in the end of the
vang line (Figure 32).
10. Attaching the Painter:
1. Locate the bow loop and painter line from the
line bag. Take the bow loop line and thread both
ends down through the small hole on the topside
of the bow (Figure 33 & 34).
2. Tie o the two ends the bow loop with a
square knot (Figure 35).
3. Pull up on the bow loop so that the square
knot is snugly secured beneath the rail of
the bow.
4. Wrap the painter line around the mast step,
underneath the adjustor bolt, and secure it with
a bowline (Figure 36). Lead the line up through
the bow loop (Figure 37). Place the remainder of
the painter in the bow of the boat.
figure 29 figure 31
figure 32 Completed Vang
figure 33 figure 34 figure 35
figure 36 figure 37
wart
Mast Collar
Mast Step
Sprit
Halyard
Cleat
Vang
Cleat
Bow
Eyestrap
Bow Stern
Boom Jaw
Mast Peg
Vang
Cleat
imble
Clam
Cleat

11. Rigging the Sprit
Halyard:
1. Locate the upper and lower sprit
halyard line from the line bag.
Retrieve the micro single block from
the delivery kit.
2. Tie a bowline in one end of the
upper sprit halyard. Making sure to
leave a very small loop that can then
be placed onto the end of the sprit
pole (figure 38).
3. Run the free end of the line
through the micro single block that
is attached to the middle of the mast
(figure 39).
4. Tie a bowline to the micro single
block with the free end of the upper
sprit halyard line (figure 40).
5. With the lower sprit halyard
line tie a bowline to the top of the
halyard cleat located on the mast
below the boom connection (figure 41).
6. Lead the line through the micro
single block and then back through
the cleat to secure (figure 42).
7. Place a stopper knot in the tail of
the lower halyard line.
12. Attaching
the Sprit:
e sprit has two diering ends. One
end has a rubber sleeve covering a
section of the aluminum. is end
will attach to the sprit halyard as the
rubber is used to reduce the chafe
against the mast.
1. Locate the sprit loop at the head of
the sail (figure 43).
2. Place the sprit end without the
rubber sleeve into the loop in the
head of the sail (figure 44).
3. Place the opposite end of the sprit
into the small loop created by the
bowline in the upper sprit halyard.
Pull on the lower sprit halyard to
raise the top of the sail (figure 45).
Attached
Micro Single
Block
Micro Single
Block
figure 39
figure 42
figure 41
figure 40
figure 38
figure 43
figure 44
figure 45
13. Rigging the
Mainsheet Bridle:
1. Locate the mainsheet snap shackle with
pennant from the delivery kit and the
mainsheet bridle line from the line bag
(figure 46).
2. Find the center of the mainsheet bridle
line and at the midpoint tie a luggage knot
onto the ring of the snap shackle pennant
(figure 47).
3. Located on the topside of the boom, you
will find two boom buttons (figure 48).
Take one end of the mainsheet bridle
line and lead it through one of the boom
buttons, around the boom and secure with
a bowline (figure 49). Repeat with the free
end of the line at the other boom button
(figure 50), tying the line as tight as
possible. Make sure the mainsheet
shackle is suspended evenly between the
two boom buttons (figure 51) and that the
bridle runs beneath the outhaul line.
14. Rigging the Mainsheet
Bridle Safety:
1. Locate the mainsheet bridle safety line
from the line bag. e mainsheet bridle
safety is used to secure the mainsheet
bridle closer to the boom. Take the safety
line and lead it around the boom and
through the ring of the snap shackle
pennant twice. Secure with a square knot
(figure 52).
Safety Issue: e mainsheet bridle should not span
from the boom further than 100 mm (~ 4”). A quick
guide would be the width of three fingers (figure
53). Refer to the Optimist class rules for complete
details www.usoda.org.
15. Rigging the
Mainsheet:
1. Locate the carbo block from the delivery
kit. e hole located in the center of the
block is the becket
(figure 54).
2. Retrieve the mainsheet line from the
line bag. Lead one end of the mainsheet
through the becket (figure 55) and secure
the end with a stopper knot (figure 56).
figure 46 figure 47 figure 48 figure 49
figure 51figure 50
figure 52 figure 53
figure 54 figure 55 figure 56
Rubber
Chafe Sleeve
Mast Peg
Outhaul Line Mainsheet Bridle
Mainsheet Carbo
Block
Becket

To lift
tiller up
figure 69
15. Rigging the Mainsheet
Continued :
3. Lead the mainsheet from the becket
down to the forward mainsheet block
on the cockpit floor (figure 57). Lead the line
back up through the carbo block (figure 58).
Continue the line down through the main-
sheet ratchet block (figure 59).
Note: Make sure while pulling the mainsheet the
block makes a ratcheting noise. If the block does not
make a ratchet sound, one of two things could be the
problem. First try running the mainsheet through the
block the opposite way. If this does not work, locate
the lever on the mainsheet block and switch it to the
ratchet position.
Safety: e mainsheet is connected to the bridle by
a snap shackle configuration. e snap shackle is
provided as a safety device that can quickly be discon-
nected by pulling on the shackle pin to release the
shackle open (figures 60 & 61). Press the bottom of the
shackle back over the pin to close.
16. Rigging the Rudder:
1. Locate the rudder and tiller from the
blade delivery box. e tiller screws and
washers should already be attached to the
tiller. Remove the screws. Align the two
holes in the tiller with the two holes in the
top of the rudder (figure 62). Make sure that
the tiller extension faces upward
(figure 63).
2. Place one washer over each hole and
insert the screw (figure 64). On the
opposite side place one washer over each
screw. Using pliers or a crescent wrench,
secure the nylon lock nuts over the screws
(figure 65). e lock nuts should be
tightened so that the tiller is snug.
Do not over tighten!
3. Align the pintles on the rudder over the
holes in the gudgeons on the boat (Figure
66). Press down making sure the pintles are
locked in place (figure 67).
4. To remove the rudder, press in the
retaining clip while pulling straight up on
the rudder (figure 68). Once the upper pintle
clears the retaining clip the rudder will be
released.
figure 57
figure 58 figure 59
figure 60
figure 61
figure 62 figure 63
figure 64
figure 65 figure 66
figure 67 figure 68
17. Rigging the Daggerboard
Retainers:
1. Locate the daggerboard strap,
shockcord and plastic tubing from the
line bag (figure 69). Place one end of the
shockcord into the tubing and slide to the
center of the shockcord (figure 70).
2. Locate the two holes in the mast thwart
(figure 71). Take one end of the shockcord
and thread it into the starboard hole (figure
72). Tie a stopper knot in the shockcord on
the backside of the thwart (figure 73). Make
sure that the knot is secure so that when
the shockcord is extended the knot does not
slip loose.
3. Slide the free end of the shockcord
into one end of the daggerboard strap
(figure 74 & 75).
4. Lead the daggerboard strap around the
backside of the daggerboard trunk between
the space created by the daggerboard trunk
and cockpit floor (figure 76).
5. Continue the free end of the shockcord
through the other side of the daggerboard
strap. Lead the shockcord back up to the
mast thwart and secure the free end in the
port hole. Again make sure that the knot is
tight so that it will not release while under
load.
6. Retrieve the daggerboard from the
delivery kit. Locate the hole in the handle
of the daggerboard. is side should face
towards the bow.
Note: Do not place the daggerboard into the dag-
gerboard slot while the boat is on land. Doing such
will damage the bottom of the board. Only place the
daggerboard into the trunk when the boat is in the
water. e daggerboard should be lowered gradually
as you sail into deeper water.
figure 70
figure 72figure 71
figure 73
figure 75 figure 76
figure 74
Pintle
Gudgeon
Rudder
Retaining
Clip
Daggerboard Retainer
Holes
Aft Edge of
Daggerboard Trunk

figure 77
figure 79
17. Rigging the Daggerboard
Retainers Continued:
7. When the daggerboard is inserted into
the trunk, take the shockcord with the
plastic tubing and bring it to the aft edge
of the board (figure 77). As the daggerboard
is lifted the compression of the shockcord
against the aft edge will keep the board
in the desired lifted position without the
board slipping back into the trunk.
Note: Make sure that the plastic tubing is against
the aft edge of the board. Without the plastic tubing
the shockcord will wear out faster due to the friction
on the sharp edge of the board.
Option: e daggerboard shockcord ends can be led
to the eyestrap on the front of the daggerboard trunk
instead of the holes in the mast thwart. is option
it allows for the front of the cockpit to remain clear
(figure 78).
8. Retrieve the daggerboard safety line from
the line bag. Tie one end of the line to the
eyestrap located on the front side of the dag-
gerboard trunk with a bowline (figure 79).
9. Lead the free end of the line up to
the daggerboard handle. read the
line through the hole at the front of the
daggerboard. Secure with a bowline
(Figure 80).
18. Attaching the Hiking
Strap Lifter:
1. Locate the hiking strap lifter shockcord
from the line bag.
2. Take one end of the hiking strap shock-
cord and lead it through the hole located in
the stern rail of the boat. (Figure 82)
3. Tie a stopper knot in the end of the
shockcord that will rest beneath the rail
of the boat. (figure 83)
4. Draw the line over the airbag and secure
it to the hiking strap. It is suggested to
place a wrap of electrical tape around the
knot to prevent the knot from slipping.
(Figure 84)
COMPLETE RETAINING
SYSTEM
figure 78
figure 80
figure 82 figure 83
figure 84
19. De-rigging
When you approach shallow water, begin to pull up the daggerboard as much as possible without obstruct-
ing the boom. After hopping out of the boat, detach the mainsheet shackle from the bridle line. Remove the
daggerboard and rudder and place it in the cockpit. It is suggested to rinse your boat and sails with fresh water
especially if you are sailing in salt water. It is also suggested to allow the sail to dry before rolling. After drying,
pull the sail out taught and roll it up against the booms securing both the sails and booms to the deck with the
mainsheet.
It is highly suggested to purchase covers for both the hull and blades in order to protect your boat from natural
elements. A wide variety of accessories are available for purchase through your local LaserPerformance dealer.
20. Sail Care
It is important to take proper care of your sail to ensure it will last longer and to provide the best performance.
Follow these simple tips to help extend the life of your sail.
1. If you are sailing in salt water, be sure to rinse out your sail with fresh water after every use. Dacron sails do
not absorb water or salt but the salt will dry on the sails making them sti. e salt in humid weather can at-
tract moisture that may lead to mildew on your sail.
2. NEVER machine wash your sail. Doing so will damage the material as well as remove the
finish of the sail. If your sail becomes dirty, clean it with a mild dish detergent and rinse with fresh water. Do
not bleach or use other harsh chemicals on the sail–they will ruin the finish, decreasing the life of the sail. It is
not recommended to store your sail wet, doing so is an invitation for mildew to grow.
3. It is not recommended to dry your sail in the sun because other than when in use, over exposure of UV rays
will slowly break down the material of the sail. Be aware of the surface that you are drying your sail on as
asphalt and other parking lot surfaces are very abrasive to the sail material and may contain chemicals (i. e. oil)
that can damage the sail. Avoid unnecessary flogging for it will greatly reduce the life of the sail.
4. Rolling your sail is highly recommended. Crumpling a sail will crack the finish of the material which quickly
reduces the life of the sail. Purchasing a Optimist sail and spar bag is highly recommended and are available
through your local dealer.
5. Make sure to regularly inspect your sail for loose or torn stitching or small tears in the cloth. Have any
stitching or tears repaired by a local sailmaker before they become more of a problem.
SEITECH dollies are the easy-to-use, light-weight,
small boat transportation solution. e Optimist
dolly has been designed specifically to fit and
support the shape of the hull. SEITECH dollies
allow you to spend less time getting your boat to
and from the water and more time on the water.
www.seitech.com
LaserPerformance equips the Optimist with the highest quality parts available. We partner with key suppliers
to develop top-of-the-line sailing equipment so your boat will perform at the highest level possible when sailed
with the factory supplied rope, sails and hardware. Shop online at laserperformance.com or at an authorized
LaserPerformance dealer to be sure you are getting genuine LaserPerformance parts and accessories.
Visit www.laserperformance.com to find your local dealer.

Owner Information
hull identification number
purchased from date of purchase
contact name phone #
address:
city / state / county zip / postal code
hull color: sail #:
registration information (if applicable)
trailer vin #
license plate number
registration number state /county registered in
insurance information
maintenance
Care, Maintenance and Service of your LaserPerformance
Product
Before rigging your Optimist, please read and familiarize yourself with the rigging manual. Failure to adhere to
these guidelines could invalidate your warranty.
Maintenance
• Keep the equipment clean by frequently flushing with fresh water. In corrosive atmospheres, stainless parts may
show discoloration/brown staining around screw holes and rivets. is is not serious and can be removed with
a fine abrasive.
• Excess water should be removed from the hull.
• Ropes, rigging and fittings should be checked at regular intervals for wear and tear, including winch gear.
• All moving parts should be lightly lubricated to avoid jamming, i.e., McLube, dry Teflon or a dry silicone
based spray. Do not use oil.
• Inspect shackles, pins and clevis rings and tape up to stop snagging sails, ropes and clothing and to prevent
them from coming undone.
• When refastening screws do not over tighten as this may strip the thread and do not reuse Nyloc nuts more
than three times.
• Damaged or worn parts should be replaced.
• Sails should be thoroughly washed down with fresh water, dried and stored in a dry place.
Trailers and Trolleys/Dollies
• It is highly recommended that a trolley/dolly is used to launch and recover your boat. Dragging your hull up onto a
beach or slip way will wear away the gel coat or polyethylene and damage the boat. Also, the hull should not be left
on a pebble beach as the hull skin could be dented.
• Trailers should be rinsed with fresh water and checked at regular intervals. It is recommended that trailers be
serviced annually. e trailer and road base should never be immersed in water.
• Trailers and trolleys supplied by LaserPerformance are designed to transport the hull in the best possible manner
to avoid damaging the hull. For instance, LaserPerformance does not recommend support hulls on rollers except
on the keel line and only where there is a reinforced keelson. We also recommend gunwale hung trolleys for our
smaller products. Hulls supported by a trolley bunk or wide strap must have the ability to drain water away from
the hull. Trolley bunks padded with carpet or foam can cause blistering in the gel coat and changes to the hull
color. Please do not transport your LaserPerformance product on a trailer or trolley that has not been specifically
designed for the product. Hulls damaged through using an incorrectly designed or wrongly set up trailer or trolley
are not covered under warranty.
• When securing your boat to a trailer for transport be very careful that ratchet straps and ropes are not over
tightened and that there is sucient padding under the strap or rope to prevent the hull/deck from being damaged
through abrasion or pressure.
• Top covers must not be allowed to “flap” when driving at speed. is can abrade the surface of the hull and
damage it. It is recommended if you are towing and plan to use your top cover that an under cover is fitted first
to prevent cover flap damage to the top sides of the hull.
• Repairs to the polyethylene or GRP hulls should be undertaken by persons with the relevant equipment and skills.
Contact LaserPerformance for advice.
Storage
• Your boat should always be tied down securely to the ground when not in use.
• UV light will cause fading to some components and fittings. A cover is recommended to reduce the UV degradation.
• Do not leave the rig under tension when not sailing or during storage.
• Care must be taken to support the hull adequately if storing on racking or similar. Any sustained point loading
could permanently dent or distort the hull.
• Under covers for LaserPerformance products should be produced from a breathable or semi breathable fabric to
allow moisture to evaporate away from the hull. is is essential to prevent damage to the hull skin. Also, the hull
should never be left in the under cover wet or damp. A combination of moisture and heat over an extended period
can also damage the hull. e under cover is designed to protect the hull when being transported and should be
removed when the hull is being stored. Typical damage includes small bubbles or blisters, excessive print through
of glass reinforcement, foam or wood and color change.
• Rudders and centerboards must never be stored wet in carry/combo bags. is can cause blistering, print through
and warpage.
• All our GRP products are designed to be dry sailed. In other words stored on dry land. If you intend to leave your
boat on a mooring for any length of time it is essential that you apply an osmosis barrier coat. LaserPerformance
can recommend a suitable product.
On Water
• When wearing a trapeze harness, take particular care when climbing on to the centerboard and back into the
boat after a capsize. e trapeze harness hook could easily damage the hull or deck.
On Water Towing
• Towing your LaserPerformance product at high speed (10 – 20 knots) behind a rib or power boat can seriously
damage the hull. Boats damaged in this manner are not covered by the warranty. LaserPerformance recommends
a maximum towing speed of 6 knots.

LaserPerformance NORTH AMERICA
300 Highpoint Avenue
Portsmouth, Rhode Island 02871
t+1 800 966 SAIL
f+1 401 683 0990
LaserPerformance EUROPE
Station Works, Long Buckby
Northamptonshire NN6 7PF
United Kingdom
t+44 (0) 1327 841600
f+44 (0) 1327 841601
LaserPerformance ASIA
Room 3415
China Merchants Tower
Shun Tak Centre
No. 168-200 Connaught Road Central
Hong Kong
t+852 2902 2818
f+852 2587 7868
LaserPerformance AUSTRALIA
t+61 (0) 3 9016 4151
LaserPerformance MIDDLE EAST
T5 Middle East LLC
Knotika Marine Mall, Sheikh Zayed Road
PO Box 54070
Dubai, UAE
t+971 (4) 3039 840
f+971 (4) 3039 839
LASERPERFORMANCE.COM
All rights reserved. ©2008 LaserPerformance.
LaserPerformance and associated logos are
trademarks. Laser, SB3, Sunfish, and Dart
are trademarks used under license.
LaserPerformance reserves the right to make
design and/or specification changes to any
of their products as part of their continuous
development program.