LaserPerformance SUNFISH RACE Quick start guide

SUNFISH SUNFISH RACE
SUNFISH
Rigging Manual
1Parts of the Hull
2Parts of the Sail
3Sunfish Mast Kit
4Bailer Installation
5Ratchet Block Installation
6Attaching the Sail to the Booms (Standard)
7Attaching the Sail to the Booms (Race)
8Rigging the Outhaul (Race)
9Rigging the Cunningham (Race)
10 Stepping the Mast: Standard and Race
11 Attaching the Main Halyard: Standard and Race
12 Raising the sail: Standard and Race
13 Rigging the Mainsheet
14 Assembling the Rudder and Tiller
15 Attaching the Rudder: Standard and Race
16 Daggerboard Assembly: Standard and Race
17 De-rigging
18 Sail Care
Go-fast tip number one:
Read this rigging guide first.

1. Parts of the Hull
Useful
knots
to know
Leach
Head of sail
Port: Left side of the boat when looking forward
Starboard: Right side of the boat when looking forward
Gunwale: Upper edge of a boat’s side
Leeward: Direction away from the wind
Windward: Direction from which the wind is coming
Nautical Terminology
CLEAT CLOVE HITCHBOWLINE
SQUARE KNOT
FIGURE 8 OR
STOPPER KNOT
2. Parts of the Sail
Congratulations on the purchase of your new Sunfish!
We suggest that you read through this guide to better familiarize yourself with
the parts and rigging of your Sunfish. If you have any questions please contact your
dealer or call LaserPerformance customer service at 1-800-966-SAIL.
Gudgeon
STERN
Traveler
Hiking Strap
COCKPIT
Automatic Bailer Coaming
Mast Step
Bullseye Fairlead
Bow Handle
BOW
Daggerboard Well Horn Cleat
Mast
Halyard
Mainsheet
Upperboom
Daggerboard
Lower Boom
Rudder
Sail
Clew of
the Sail
Outhaul and
Corner Ties
(Corner Ties on
Sunfish Race Only) Boom Blocks
Mainsheet
Sail Rings
Mast Cap
Gooseneck
Lu
Mast
Foot of the Sail
Tack of
the Sail
Interlocking
Eye Bolts
Grommet S-hook

e Sunfish is available in two models; Standard and Race. e Race model comes with
equipment most commonly used for racing.
First: Locate your delivery kit. Depending on which model you have purchased (Race or Standard)
there will be a few dierences in some of the hardware. Using Figure 1 or 2, identify the contents of
your kit. To avoid damaging the contents, be sure not to cut into the packaging inside the box.
1. Daggerboard line
2. Daggerboard
3. Tiller with extension (36”),
Rudder bolt, Tiller end caps (4)
4. Colored sail
5. Rudder
6. Mainsheet
7. Outhaul
8. Sail rings
9. Bailer parts, Brummel hooks (2), Snap shackle,
Mainsheet ratchet block
10. Daggerboard retaining line
11. Daggerboard shockcord
12. Halyard
1. Daggerboard line
2. Daggerboard
3. Tiller with extension (36”),
Rudder bolt, Tiller end caps (4)
4. White Race sail
5. Wind indicator
6. Rudder
7. Mainsheet
8. Sail ties
9. Halyard
10. Daggerboard shockcord
11. Outhaul
12. Cunningham
13. Daggerboard retaining line
14. Bailer parts, Brummel hooks (2), Snap shackle
15. Mainsheet ratchet block
Standard Sunfish Delivery Kit Race Sunfish Delivery Kit
figure 1 figure 2
1. S-hook
2. Brummel hook (2)
3. Snap shackle
4. Bailer O-ring
Contents of item # 8
Locate the mast, upper and lower boom. e upper and lower boom will be connected
at one end with two interlocking eye bolts (figure 3). e gooseneck (figure 4) will come
assembled on the lower boom. Depending on the model that you purchased, the goose-
neck bolt may dier in appearance. On the Sunfish Race model the gooseneck comes
equipped with a quick adjust lever (figure 5). is lever can easily be released in order to
adjust the positioning of the gooseneck on the lower boom. Also located on the Sunfish
Race lower boom are two outhaul clam cleats (figure 6).
3. Sunfish Mast Kit Here is a list
of tools needed
to assemble your
new Sunfish:
ELECTRICAL TAPE
SCREWDRIVERS
WRENCHES
UTILITY KNIFE
PLIERS
Sunfish Mast Kit Standard Sunfish Mast Kit Race
figure 4
CLEATS
INTERLOCKING
EYE BOLTS
figure 5
figure 3
figure 6
STANDARD MAST AND BOOM SET RACE MAST AND BOOM SET
Be sure to remove any bubble wrap and plastic coating before rigging.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5. 6. 7.
2.
4. 4.
5.
15.
14.
13.
12.
10. 11.
3. 8.
9.
10. 11.
12.
1. 5. 1. 2. 3. 6.
5. Bailer cap
6. Bailer plug
7. Ba iler housing
7. 7. 8. 9.

4. Bailer Installation
1. Locate the bailer O-ring (A), cap (B), plug
(C) and housing (D) from the delivery kit
(figure 7).
2. Fit the bailer cap into the hole of the
plug so that the plug stopper faces upward
(figure 8). Fold the rubber plug over the cap
to close (figure 9).
3. Locate the bailer housing and O-ring
(figure 10). Place the O-ring over the neck
of the bailer and push it down completely
(figure 11).
4. Locate the bailer opening in the cockpit
(figure 12). Take the bailer housing with
O-ring and place it under the hull, sliding
it up through the cockpit. Make sure that
the ball in the housing is facing towards
the stern of the boat (figure 13).
5. While holding the housing in place,
thread the bailer cap through the cockpit
hole and into the bailer housing. Tighten
the bailer so that it is hand tight.
Note: e bailer will not sit flush to the bottom of
the hull.
6. When open, the stopper of the bailer
plug should lie on the cockpit floor point-
ing towards the bow (Figure 14).
Reminder: e bailer lets water out of the cockpit
while you are sailing. Insert the bailer plug in the
cap before launching and during sailing (Figure 15).
If the cockpit begins to collect water open the bailer
to release the water. Note: the boat needs to be
moving quickly in order to allow the water to release
and not take on more water at the same time.
figure 7
figure 8 figure 9
figure 11figure 10
figure 12
figure 15figure 14figure 13
PLUG CAP
O-RING
BAILER BALLBAILER HOUSING
A
B
CD
BAILER OPENING
SPACE BETWEEN
HULL AND BAILER
BALL TOWARD
STERN
5. Ratchet Block Installation
Depending on which model Sunfish you have
purchased the ratchet block will be dierent
in appearance. Follow the instructions below
for your model Sunfish. Find the mainsheet
eyestrap located on the deck forward of the
cockpit, aft of the daggerboard well (Figure 16).
is is where you will attach the mainsheet
ratchet block. figure 16
DAGGERBOARD WELL
EYESTRAP
Standard Kit
1. In the delivery kit locate the ratchet block
(figure 17), shackle, pin and ring
(figure 18).
2. Loop the shackle through the eyestrap and
align the hole in the shackle with the
hole in the bottom of the mainsheet block.
Insert the pin and secure with
the ring (figure 19).
figure 18figure 17 figure 19
Race Kit
1. In the delivery kit locate the ratchet block
(figure 20), compression spring
(figure 21), shackle, pin and ring (figure 21).
2. Take the shackle and loop it through the
eyestrap. Place the compression spring
over the eyestrap (figure 22).
3. While compressing the spring, place the
mainsheet ratchet block at the top of the spring
and align the hole in the bottom of the block
with the holes in the shackle.
4. Secure the Ratchet block to the shackle using
the pin and ring
(figure 23).
Tip: To assist in keeping the spring compressed while
attaching the block to the shackle, try compressing the
spring and tie with string. Place the tied spring over the
eyestrap and attach the block. en untie the string and
release the spring.
Tip: After rigging the mainsheet block some racers prefer
to raise the height of the hiking strap in order to more
easily get their feet under after a tack. Using a small
piece of line or shockcord, thread one end through the
forward loop of webbing in the hiking strap. Continue the
line through the mainsheet block eyestrap (figure 21). Be
sure to tie the line tightly in order to keep the strap in the
lifted position.
figure 21figure 20 figure 22
figure 23 figure 24

1. From the delivery kit locate the sail, upper
and lower booms, S-hook and package of sail
rings. Remove the two outhaul lines from the
line bag.
2. Find a flat surface free of sharp objects that
you can spread your sail out on.
3. Align the lower boom along the foot of the
sail and the upper boom along the lu (figure
25). e Sunfish logo should face the upper
boom (the boom that does not have any blocks
attached).
4. e two booms are attached together by in-
terlocking eye bolts. is corner of the sail is
known as the tack. Take the S-hook and loop
one end through the interlocking eye bolt that
is attached to the lower boom (Figure 26).
5. Take the free end of the S-hook and place it
through the grommet in the tack of the sail.
Using a pair of pliers, crimp the S-hook closed
(figure 27).
6. Attaching the outhaul lines: Starting at
either the head of the sail or the clew (one of
the ends that is not yet attached to the booms)
take one of the outhaul lines and tie a stopper
knot in the end of it. Feed the free end of the
line through the boom cap (figure 28).
7. Continue the line through the grommet
in the sail (figure 29) and then back down
through the top cap. Double the line through
the grommet (figure 30) and secure with a
couple half hitches (figure 31). e outhaul
line should be fairly snug (figure 32).
8. Repeat the same procedures for the second
outhaul.
9. Secure the remainder of the sail to the
booms using the sail rings. Locate a grom-
met, place the sail ring around the boom,
insert the grommet between the openings of
the ring and press firmly to secure (figures 33
and 34).
Tip: Pliers may be helpful when closing the sail rings.
However use caution, as they can easily scratch the
booms.
6. Attaching the Sail to the Booms (Standard):
figure 25
figure 26 figure 27
figure 28 figure 29
figure 30 figure 31
figure 32
figure 33
figure 34
HEAD
UPPER BOOM
LUFF
TACK FOOT OF SAIL
LEACH
CLEW
LOWER BOOM
GROMMET
1. From the delivery kit locate the sail, upper and lower
boom, S-hook, and sail ties. Remove the cunningham
and outhaul line from the line bag. e white race sail
is attached to the booms with sail ties as opposed to sail
rings. ere should be 4 sail ties that are longer than
the remaining 32 ties. ese longer ties are the corner
sail ties.
2. Find a flat surface free of sharp objects where you
can spread our your sail.
3. Align the lower boom along the foot of the sail and
the upper boom along the lu (refer to figure 25). e
Sunfish logo should face the upper boom (the boom
that does not have any blocks attached).
4. e two booms are attached together by
interlocking eye bolts. Take the S-hook and loop one
end through the interlocking eye bolt that is attached
to the lower boom (figure 34).
Tip: Some racers use a piece of line to secure the sail to the
interlocking eye bolt as opposed to the S-hook. It is suggested to
use a 10” long, 2 mm piece of spectra that gets led through the
tack grommet and interlocking eye bolt. Wrap the line 2 or 3 times
around and secure with a square knot.
5. Take the free end of the S-hook and place it through
the grommet in the tack of the sail. Using a pair of pli-
ers, crimp the S-hook closed. Using the longer corner ties
secure the tack of the sail to both the upper and lower
booms using separate lines by wrapping the line around
twice and securing with a square knot (Figure 35).
7. Attaching the Sail to the Booms (Race)
figure 36 figure 37
figure 34 figure 35
8. Rigging the Outhaul (Race):
1. Using the outhaul line, tie a bowline to the
lower boom end cap (figure 38).
2. Lead the free end of the line through
the grommet in the sail and back through
the boom end cap (figure 39). Continue the
line forward down the boom to the aft most
boom cleat.
3. Tie an overhand knot in the outhaul
two sail ties before the boom cleat. Lead
the outhaul line through the two sail ties
and through the cleat (Figure 40).
4. Lead the line back through the overhand
knot and back forward through the cleat. Cleat
o and tie a large bowline handle in the end
(figure 40).
figure 38 figure 39
figure 40
1. TIE
OVERHAND
KNOT
2. LEAD LINE
UNDER SAIL TIES
3. THROUGH
CLEAT
4. THROUGH
OVERHAND
KNOT 5. BACK THROUGH
CLEAT
6. CLEAT OFF AND TIE
A BOWLINE HANDLEKNOT
6. Using one of the longer sail ties in the sail tie
bundle to attach the head of the sail to the top end
of the boom. e sail should not be tied taunt as the
cunningham will be rigged and used to adjust lu
tension on the Race rig. Rigging the outhaul on the
lower boom is detailed in Section 8 (figure 36).
Tip: Make sure to set the tie at the head of the sail so that the
sail’s lu tension is as loose as you will want it while sailing.
You will then be able to adjust the lu tension with the
cunningham line.
7. Finish attaching the sail to the booms with the
remaining sail ties. For each grommet in the sail,
tie one sail tie around the boom and through the
grommet. Secure with a square knot (figure 37).

e main halyard is secured to the upper boom with a clove hitch. It is suggested that you place three wraps of
electrical tape around the upper booms between the ninth and tenth sail ring (counting from the tack of the
sail upward). e tape helps keep the halyard from slipping up to the next sail ring or sail tie.
Note: Tying the halyard between the 9th and 10th sail ring is only a suggestion for the halyard location. You can play with the location
of the halyard to raise or lower the boom depending on your comfort or wind strength. It is highly suggested not to tie the halyard up
much farther; raising the boom too far o the deck may cause the mast to bend. For further information on tuning your Sunfish visit the
class association at www.sunfishclass.org.
1. Using the cunningham
line, tie a bowline to the
interlocking eyebolt of the
upper boom (figure 41).
2. Lead the line through the
grommet in the tack of the
sail (figure 42) and
continue it down through
the interlocking eye bolt in
the lower boom (figure 43).
3. Feed the line through the
opening in the gooseneck
that retains the lower boom.
Just forward of the mast, tie
an overhand knot (figure 44).
4. Lead the line through the
forward most cleat and back
through the overhand knot.
Cleat o and tie a bowline
handle with the remainder
of the line (figure 45).
11. Attaching the Main Halyard: Standard and Race
figure 41 figure 42 figure 43
figure 44
figure 45
1. Locate the mast, as well as the main halyard from the
line bag. read one half of the halyard through the hole
in the mast top cap (figure 46).
2. Before stepping the mast make sure that there are
NO OVERHEAD WIRES in the area or leading to the
launching site!
3. Make sure that the mast step hole and mast heal are
perfectly clean. Any sand, dirt, etc. in the mast step
will grind into the gelcoat and eventually damage the
boat.
4. Lay the booms and sail on the deck of the Sunfish.
Align the gooseneck on the lower boom over the mast
step hole (Figure 47).
5. Holding onto both ends of the halyard, lift the mast
up setting the heal of the mast through the gooseneck
ring. Slide the mast into the mast tube (figure 48). Be
careful not to drop the mast into the tube for damage
to the mast step will occur!
10. Stepping the Mast: Standard and Race
1. TIE OVERHAND
KNOT
3. THROUGH
OVERHAND
KNOT
2. LEAD LINE
THROUGH CLEAT
4. BACK THROUGH CLEAT
figure 47
figure 46
figure 48
1. Find one end of the
halyard (tail) and
wrap it around the
upper boom just be-
low the electrical
tape; leaving about a
foot long tail to com-
plete the clove hitch.
2. Lead the tail of the
halyard over the fall
(e fall is the
remainder of the hal-
yard) and around the
upper boom again.
3. Where the tail
crosses over the fall
it forms an X. Pull up
on the line that cre-
ates the top of the X.
4. Lead the tail under
the line you are pull-
ing up on. Pull on the
tail and fall in order
to tighten around the
boom.
5. Tie a figure 8 knot
in the end of the
tail.
Before raising the sail make sure that the bow of the boat is pointing into the wind and you are clear of obstacles
that the boom might hit. Be sure to have the mainsheet and mainsheet snap shackle on hand as they will be the
next parts to assemble.
12. Raising the sail: Standard and Race
1. Begin raising the sail by pulling
down on the halyard.
2. You will need to assist the lower
boom o the deck by raising the boom
close to the gooseneck while pulling
on the halyard. Continue to pull on
the halyard until the upper boom is
right against the top of the mast.
3. Lead the tail of the halyard
through the main halyard fairlead
on the deck. Tie o the halyard to
the main halyard cleat.
Tip: It is suggested to coil
up the remaining tail of the
halyard and place it under
the taught halyard section
on the deck. is will keep
the halyard from dragging
in the water.
Optional: How to create a vang with the
tail of your halyard. After cleating o the
halyard lead the free end of the line through
the fairlead, around the mast above the
gooseneck, and back through the fairlead.
Some racers attach the free end of the line to
the daggerboard.
TAIL
FALL
PULL TO
TIGHTEN
FIGURE
8 KNOT
9. Rigging the Cunningham (Race)

1. Retrieve the mainsheet from the line bag. Tie
a bowline to the mainsheet snap shackle with
one end of the mainsheet (figure 49).
2. Snap the mainsheet shackle onto the bridle
(figure 50).
3. Feed the free end of the mainsheet up and
through the aft most boom block and continue
towards the bow along the boom, making sure
to go through the second boom block before
leading down to the mainsheet block attached
to the deck (figure 51).
4. Lead the line down through the ratchet
block. Making sure that while pulling in the
mainsheet the block makes a ratcheting noise.
If the block does not make a ratchet sound one
of two things could be the problem. First try
running the mainsheet through the block the
opposite way. If this does not work, locate the
lever on the mainsheet block and switch it to
the ratchet position (figure 52).
figure 49 figure 50 figure 51
figure 52
13. Rigging the Mainsheet
COMPLETE MAINSHEET
BRIDLE
LEVER
figure 53
15. Assembling the Rudder and Tiller
Locate the rudder and tiller from the delivery kit. Remove the tiller bolt and
the two plastic washers from the end of the black tiller straps.
1. Align the hole in the end of the tiller with
that of the rudder head. e contour of
the tiller should match that of the rudder
cheek.
2. Align the washer and bolt and insert into
the end hole of the tiller twisting it through
to the other end.
3. Align the second washer and lock nut on
the end of the bolt and using a 7/16” socket
head driver and 7/16” crescent wrench com-
plete the install of the rudder head bolt.
4. Place the plastic end caps on tiller ends
and rubber bolt holes.
16. Attaching the Rudder: Standard and Race
1. Slide the tiller and
extension underneath the
wire bridle. e pintle pin
will have two indentations
that align with the two
notches in the gudgeon
(located on the stern of the
boat). Align the pintle pin
with the gudgeon notches.
2. Press down on the top
of the pintle pin
(compressing the pintle
spring) and slide the pin’s
indentations into the
gudgeon.
3. Release the pin. e
rudder should now be
securely attached to the
boat. e rudder should be
able to pivot from side to
side easily. Leave the rud-
der in the kicked up posi-
tion prior to launching.
4. e Sunfish Race rudder
attachment is the same as
the standard Sunfish. e
only dierence between
the two models is the
rudder blade materials.
17. Daggerboard Assembly: Standard and Race
1.Locate the daggerboard, bungee
line, retainer line, daggerboard
handle line and brummel hooks (2)
from the line bag and delivery kit
(figure 54).
2. With a stopper knot, attach the
brummel hooks to each end of the
bungee (figure 55).
3. read the daggerboard handle line
through the aft hole of the dagger-
board head. ere are 2 suggestions for
tying the handle. Use figures 56 - 60.
4. read one of the brummel hooks
through the hole in the daggerboard.
5. Lead the ends of the bungee around
the mast (figure 61) and through the
bow handle. Connect the two brum-
mels (figure 62).
6. When you are ready to launch, slide
the daggerboard into the daggerboard
well. e bungee should be facing the
bow while the retaining line faces
the cockpit (figure 63). Tie a bowline
with the daggerboard retainer line to
the aft hole of the handle in the dag-
gerboard. With the free end of the line
tie a bowline to the mainsheet block
eyestrap
figure 56
figure 54 figure 55
figure 57 figure 58 figure 59 figure 60
Find the center of the daggerboard handle line.
Pass one end of the line through either hole and
place the center of the line at the hole. Twist the
two sides of the line around each other (figure
56). When a sucient handle is made by the
twisting, thread one end of the line through the
opposite hole (figure 57). Secure with a square
knot (figure 58). Using a hot knife cut the ends of
the knot to a desired length (figure 59).
read one end of the
handle line through the
aft hole and tie a stopper
knot. Continue the line
back through the hole
and tie a stopper knot on
the opposite side. Pull
tight. Cut excess line.
figure 61 figure 62 figure 63
BUNGEE LINE
BRUMMEL HOOKS
RETAINING
LINE
TILLER EXTENSION
UNIVERSAL TILLER
14. Tiller Extension Assembly
Tip: Because the socket of the wrench will need to fit into the outer hole of the tiller, be sure you are using a socket with a thin outer wall.
On the other end, place the closed (circular) end of the crescent wrench in the tiller end and then place the lock nut in the wrench before
screwing the bolt all the way through.
1. Insert tab of tiller extension into slot of tiller extension
mount, this should slide in with a snug fit.
2. Once tiller extension tab is fully inserted into the mount,
align the mount cover and push down on mount to secure
fitting. Tip: Some sailors wrap vinyl electrical tape around both
ends of the mount and tiller to ensure the extension does
not disconnect while sailing.

18. De-rigging
When you approach shallow water, begin to pull up the daggerboard as much as possible without obstructing
the boom and kick up the rudder. After hopping out of the boat, detach the mainsheet shackle from the bridle
line. Remove the daggerboard and place it in the cockpit. It is suggested to rinse your boat and sails with fresh
water especially if you are sailing in salt water. It is also suggested to allow the sail to dry before rolling. After
drying, pull the sail out taught and roll it up against the booms, securing both the sails and booms to the deck
with the mainsheet.
It is highly suggested to purchase covers for both the hull and blades in order to protect your boat from natural
elements. A wide variety of accessories are available for purchase through your local LaserPerformance dealer.
19. Sail Care
It is important to take proper care of your sail to ensure it will last longer and to provide the best performance.
Follow these simple tips to help extend the life of your sail.
1. If you are sailing in salt water, be sure to rinse out your sail with fresh water after every use. Dacron sails do
not absorb water or salt but the salt will dry on the sails making them sti. e salt in humid weather can at-
tract moisture that may cause it mildew to grow.
2. NEVER machine wash your sails. Doing so will damage the material as well as remove the
finish of the sail. If your sail becomes dirty, clean it with a mild dish detergent and rinse with fresh water.
Do not bleach or use other harsh chemicals on the sail–they can ruin the finish, decreasing the life of
the sail. It is not recommended to store your sail wet, doing so is an invitation for mildew to grow.
3. It is not recommended to dry your sail in the sun because other than when in use, over exposure of UV rays
will slowly break down the material of the sail. Be aware of the surface that you are drying your sail on as
asphalt and other parking lot surfaces are very abrasive to the sail material and may contain chemicals (i. e. oil)
that can damage the sail. Avoid unnecessary flogging for it will greatly reduce the life of the sail.
4. Rolling your sail is highly recommended. Crumpling a sail will crack the finish of the material which quickly
reduces the life of the sail. Purchasing a Sunfish sail and spar bag is highly recommended and are available
through your local dealer.
5. Make sure to regularly inspect your sail for loose or torn stitching or small tears in the cloth. Have any
stitching or tears repaired by a local sailmaker before they become more of a problem.
SEITECH dollies are the easy-to-use, light-weight, small boat transportation solution.
e Sunfish dolly has been designed specifically to fit and support the shape of the hull.
SEITECH dollies allow you to spend less time getting your boat to and from the water and
more time on the water. Visit www.seitech.com.
Sunfish Class Association
For more information and to link to Sunfish sailors around
the world, join the Sunfish Class Association at www.sun-
fishclass.org.
LaserPerformance equips the Sunfish with the highest quality parts available. We partner with key suppliers
to develop top-of-the-line sailing equipment so your boat will perform at the highest level possible when sailed
with the factory supplied rope, sails and hardware. Shop online at laserperformance.com or at an authorized
LaserPerformance dealer to be sure you are getting genuine LaserPerformance parts and accessories.
Visit www.laserperformance.com to find your local dealer.
Owner Information
hull identification number
purchased from date of purchase
contact name phone #
address:
city / state / county zip / postal code
hull color: sail #:
registration information (if applicable)
trailer vin #
license plate number
registration number state / county registered in
insurance information
maintenance

LaserPerformance NORTH AMERICA
300 Highpoint Avenue
Portsmouth, Rhode Island 02871
t+1 800 966 SAIL
f+1 401 683 0990
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Station Works, Long Buckby
Northamptonshire NN6 7PF
United Kingdom
t+44 (0) 1327 841600
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Shun Tak Centre
No. 168-200 Connaught Road Central
Hong Kong
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