LaserPerformance V15 User manual

V15
V15
Rigging Manual
1Unpacking and Preparation
2Assembly
3Sail Control
4Launching
1. Unpacking and Preparation
Unpack the major parts listed below and lay them out on a soft piece of
ground free of sharp objects.
To avoid damaging contents, do not cut into packaging.
a. Hull
b. Mast kit which includes:
Rigged mast
Rigged boom
c. Boat kit which includes:
Tiller/Hiking Stick
Daggerboard
Rudder
d. Line bag
Jib sheet
Mainsheet
Daggerboard shockcord
Note: All lines are as long as necessary for maximum purchase. LaserPerformance
encourages you to customize line lengths for your sailing pleasure, but be sure to cut and
burn ends to prevent fraying.
Useful
knots
to know CLEAT CLOVE HITCHBOWLINESQUARE KNOTFIGURE 8 OR
STOPPER KNOT
Tools: To rig your V15 the first time,
you will need the following:
White electrical tape•
2 adjustable wrenches and/•
or pliers
Fogh Marine | 416 251-0384 | www.foghmarine.com | [email protected]

2. Assembly
Rigging
Locate the daggerboard shockcord (in the line bag) and attach each end
to the eyestraps that secure the forward end of the hiking straps. You
may have to raise the line bags to locate the eyestraps. Make sure your
knot is very tight; shockcord easily unties itself.
Assembling the mast
e mast comes already rigged except for the spreaders, which are
taped to the mast. Remove all tape, and untie the halyards; secure
them loosely around the mast so they won’t be lost when stepping.
Before you install the spreaders, make sure the hoist end of the main
halyard (which comes o the aft side of the masthead sheave) is aft of
the spreader brackets and all other rigging is forward. is will save
you a lot of aggravation later on. Locate the spreaders and pull the
clevis pins out of the spreader brackets.
Spreader installation
• Slide the end of each spreader with two holes into the brackets on
the mast, with the thin edge facing aft on the mast (toward the sail
track). Line up the holes, reinstall the two clevis pins, and reattach
the cotter rings.
• Remove the clevis pins in the outboard end of each spreader and pull
out the small clip. After locating the port upper shroud, slide the clip
onto it and back into the port spreader; then reinsert the clevis pin.
Repeat for the starboard upper/spreader.
• Double check there is no rigging running between the upper ends
of the shrouds and the spreaders. For extra security, tape around the
spreaders to keep the cotter rings from working loose.
Step mast
• Check there are no overhead wires in the area and make sure all
halyards are secured so they won’t be lost. Two people are
recommended to step the mast. e taller person should place the mast
heel against a solid object, lift the top end, and walk toward the heel,
raising it hand over hand until the mast stands vertical.
• Rotate the mast until the track faces toward the stern of the boat.
Keep your hands a good distance apart while lifting the mast over the
step for added stability.
• Align the mast heel so that the groove fits over the middle pin in
the deck fitting. Once the mast heel is in the step, the second person
should attach the shroud on the opposite side of the boat by removing
the bolt and nut from the bottom of the Staymaster and reassembling
it through the chain plate on the rail.
• Attach the second shroud the same way, then lean the mast forward
against the shrouds and tie o the headstay. If you will be using a
bowline, attach the headstay to the clevis pin just aft of the shackle
and tie the bowline into the shackle. Otherwise, tie the headstay
directly to the shackle. Tighten it just enough so the mast will not fall
over; the jib halyard will tension the rig for sailing.
Recommended shroud position: Set the Staymaster shroud
adjuster at the 7 position by turning the adjusting nut as necessary,
then snapping the locking clip into place. is is the light air position.
Use the 5 position for medium and 3 for heavy setting.”
Note: ese are general positions and should be adjusted based upon
your preferences.
Rig boom
Lay the boom on the deck so that the block closest to the end of the
boom is even with the traveler eye straps and the other end points
toward the bow. Remove the fast pin from the gooseneck and line up
the holes in the forward end of the boom with the gooseneck holes,
then reinsert the pin. Untape the outhaul tail from the boom if you
haven’t already done so.
Mainsheet and vang
• e V15 mainsheet has a bridle spliced into one end that fastens to
the stern deck. Locate the thicker end and pass it forward through the
block on the end of the boom, through the black strap, through the
forward block, then down through the ratchet block in the cockpit in
the direction of the ratchet. Tie a stopper knot in the bitter end.
• Separate the thinner ends of the sheet to avoid twists. Attach the
ends of the sheet to the two eyestraps on the stern deck to form a
bridle, keeping their length even.
• Adjust bridle ends until the mainsheet splice is on centerline;
adjusting the length for dierent wind conditions will help
improve performance. Remove twists in the bridle often
while sailing.
• Locate the vang (attached to the mast). Shackle the upper block
to the bail on the underside of the boom with the provided shackle.
Make sure the line is uncleated and has a stopper knot to ensure
it can not pull out.
Mainsail
After checking there are no sharp objects in the area, unroll the
mainsail near the boat and install the top batten, thin end first.
Secure the velcro over the end. Locate the clew slug and slide it
into the aft end of the boom track. Fasten the tack to the inboard
end of the boom by removing the attached fast pin and reinstalling
it through the grommet. Check there are no twists in the foot
(lower edge).
Outhaul
• Tie a stopper knot in one end of the outhaul. Pass the other end
through the eyestrap on the port outboard end of the boom, through
the clew of the sail from port to starboard, back through the block on
the end of the boom, and forward to the cleat.
• After passing through the cleat lead the outhaul line through
the cheek block from top to bottom. is allows the outhaul to be
adjusted from aft in the boat. Tie a stopper knot in the end to keep
it from unrigging itself.
Fogh Marine | 416 251-0384 | www.foghmarine.com | [email protected]

3. Sail Control
Jib
• e jib halyard replaces the headstay when the jib is up, allowing for
a wide adjustment of mast rake. e headstay will fall slack when the
jib halyard is properly tensioned.
• Remove the clevis pin just aft of the headstay, line up the jib tack
between the holes, and reinsert the clevis pin.
• Locate the jib sheets (one line, in the line bag) and find their
halfway point; this is where they will attach to the sail. Feed the
midpoint through the clew grommet as a loop and pass both tails
through this loop, so that when tightened, the sheet is securely
attached to the sail. Lead the nearest sheet back to the fairlead on
the near side of the boat, and lead the other sheet in front of the
mast and back to the opposite fairlead. Tie a stopper knot in the
ends to prevent them from pulling out when you raise the sail.
• Locate the jib halyard shackle and attach it to the head of the jib.
Make sure the jib sheets will run free and pull up the halyard. When
the sail is most of the way up, you will get to a block at the end of
the wire. Run the tail through the block near the bottom of the
mast, then through this block on the wire, ending at the cleat.
is purchase is used to tension the jib halyard and rig. e tail
can be coiled and placed in the halyard bag to eliminate clutter.
• To keep the headstay from interfering with the jib, take up
the slack in the wire at the bottom with a piece of shockcord
(not provided).
Raising the mainsail
• Locate the aft end of the main halyard and attach it to the head of
the mainsail. e smaller the knot, the closer to the top of the mast
the sail will be.
• Make sure the mainsheet will run free and hoist the sail,
taking care to feed it into the sail track. Once the sail is near the
masthead, you will find a stainless ring tied into the line. Pass a loop
of halyard through the ring and down under the cleat, and use this
additional purchase to pull the main up to full hoist.
• Cleat o the halyard, coil the tail and stow in the line bag.
• e cunningham is attached to the port side of the mast. Pass the end
up through the grommet in the lu of the mainsail and back down to
the clam cleat on the starboard side of the mast. Tie a stopper knot in
the bitter end to prevent it from unrigging itself.
Before launching
Attach the rudder to the gudgeons as shown, kicking up the
rudder if necessary. Make sure the rudder bolt is tight enough
so the blade will remain kicked up. If the rudder stop does not
prevent the rudder from lifting o the boat, bend the stop out
so that it fits as shown. Pass the tiller between the mainsheet
bridles and slide it into the rudder head. Pass the rudder down haul
line through the cleat and leave loose; this line will get tightened
once the rudder is all the way down. e shockcord reduces damage
if the rudder hits something while sailing.
4. Launching
Daggerboard: With the boat in shallow water or secured to a dock, slide
the daggerboard into the daggerboard trunk as much as water depth
will allow. e thin edge should be aft and the handle up. Stretch
the shockcord around the aft edge with the plastic tubing against
the edge of the board; this helps keep the board at a desired height.
Rudder: Push the rudder blade down as much as water depth will
allow. Once it is all the way down, tighten the downhaul line.
Unrigging
As you approach shallow water when you come in from sailing, pull
up the daggerboard halfway. Release the rudder downhaul and pop
up the rudder. After you a re secured to the dock or standing in
shallow water, pull the daggerboard out of its slot and lay it down
in the bottom of the boat. Make sure your mainsheet will run free,
and release the vang. To re move the rudder, depress the stop and
pull it o. Once the boat is on land, make sure the headstay is still
tied o to the bow shackle before dropping the jib. You can leave
the boat rigged unless it is traveling, just make sure both halyards
are secured. Remove the boom and roll it up with the mainsail.
When unstepping the rig, leave the shroud adjusters attached
to the shrouds to prevent damaging them while cartopping.
Sail care tips
All gear should be rinsed, if sailing in salt water, and the sail
should be allowed to dry before it is rolled up. Removing the
battens from the pockets between uses will increase the life of
the elastic that holds them in. Make sure the window is not
creased if you fold the sail.
Daggerboard
Mast
Mainsheet block
Mainsheet block
Tiller w/extension
Traveler eyes
Rudder
Gudgeons
Mainsheet bridle
Mainsheet retaining loop Boom
Now you are ready to sail your v15!
For your own safety, make sure
you are wearing appropriate cloth-
ing for the conditions, and please
obtain proper training before
sailing. Have fun and don’t forget
your lifejacket!
LaserPerformance equips our Vanguard 15 with the highest quality parts available. We partner with key suppliers
to develop top-of-the-line dinghy equipment so your boat will perform at the highest level possible when sailed
with the factory supplied rope, sails and hardware. Shop online at laserperformance.com or at an authorized
LaserPerformance dealer to be sure you are getting genuine LaserPerformance parts and accessories.
Visit www.laserperformance.com to find your local dealer
Fogh Marine | 416 251-0384 | www.foghmarine.com | [email protected]

Owner Information
hull identification number
purchased from date of purchase
contact name phone #
address:
city / state / county zip / postal code
hull color: sail #:
registration information (if applicable)
trailer vin #
license plate number
registration number state / county registered in
insurance information
maintenance
Care, Maintenance and Service of your LaserPerformance
Product
Before rigging your V15, please read and familiarize yourself with the rigging manual. Failure to adhere to these
guidelines could invalidate your warranty.
Maintenance
• Keep the equipment clean by frequently flushing with fresh water. In corrosive atmospheres, stainless parts may
show discoloration/brown staining around screw holes and rivets. is is not serious and can be removed with
a fine abrasive.
• Excess water should be removed from the hull.
• Ropes, rigging and fittings should be checked at regular intervals for wear and tear, including winch gear.
• All moving parts should be lightly lubricated to avoid jamming, i.e., McLube, dry Teflon or a dry silicone
based spray. Do not use oil.
• Inspect shackles, pins and clevis rings and tape up to stop snagging sails, ropes and clothing and to prevent
them from coming undone.
• When refastening screws do not over tighten as this may strip the thread and do not reuse Nyloc nuts more
than three times.
• Damaged or worn parts should be replaced.
• Sails should be thoroughly washed down with fresh water, dried and stored in a dry place.
Trailers and Trolleys/Dollies
• It is highly recommended that a trolley/dolly is used to launch and recover your boat. Dragging your hull up onto a
beach or slip way will wear away the gel coat or polyethylene and damage the boat. Also, the hull should not be left
on a pebble beach as the hull skin could be dented.
• Trailers should be rinsed with fresh water and checked at regular intervals. It is recommended that trailers be
serviced annually. e trailer and road base should never be immersed in water.
• Trailers and trolleys supplied by LaserPerformance are designed to transport the hull in the best possible manner
to avoid damaging the hull. For instance, LaserPerformance does not recommend support hulls on rollers except
on the keel line and only where there is a reinforced keelson. We also recommend gunwale hung trolleys for our
smaller products. Hulls supported by a trolley bunk or wide strap must have the ability to drain water away from
the hull. Trolley bunks padded with carpet or foam can cause blistering in the gel coat and changes to the hull
color. Please do not transport your LaserPerformance product on a trailer or trolley that has not been specifically
designed for the product. Hulls damaged through using an incorrectly designed or wrongly set up trailer or trolley
are not covered under warranty.
• When securing your boat to a trailer for transport be very careful that ratchet straps and ropes are not over
tightened and that there is sucient padding under the strap or rope to prevent the hull/deck from being damaged
through abrasion or pressure.
• Top covers must not be allowed to“flap” when driving at speed. is can abrade the surface of the hull and
damage it. It is recommended if you are towing and plan to use your top cover that an under cover is fitted first
to prevent cover flap damage to the top sides of the hull.
• Repairs to the polyethylene or GRP hulls should be undertaken by persons with the relevant equipment and skills.
Contact LaserPerformance for advice.
Storage
• Your boat should always be tied down securely to the ground when not in use.
• UV light will cause fading to some components and fittings. A cover is recommended to reduce the UV degradation.
• Do not leave the rig under tension when not sailing or during storage.
• Care must be taken to support the hull adequately if storing on racking or similar. Any sustained point loading
could permanently dent or distort the hull.
• Under covers for LaserPerformance products should be produced from a breathable or semi breathable fabric to
allow moisture to evaporate away from the hull. is is essential to prevent damage to the hull skin. Also, the hull
should never be left in the under cover wet or damp. A combination of moisture and heat over an extended period
can also damage the hull. e under cover is designed to protect the hull when being transported and should be
removed when the hull is being stored. Typical damage includes small bubbles or blisters, excessive print through
of glass reinforcement, foam or wood and color change.
• Rudders and centerboards must never be stored wet in carry/combo bags. is can cause blistering, print through
and warpage.
• All our GRP products are designed to be dry sailed. In other words stored on dry land. If you intend to leave your
boat on a mooring for any length of time it is essential that you apply an osmosis barrier coat. LaserPerformance
can recommend a suitable product.
On Water
• When wearing a trapeze harness, take particular care when climbing on to the centerboard and back into the
boat after a capsize. e trapeze harness hook could easily damage the hull or deck.
On Water Towing
• Towing your LaserPerformance product at high speed (10 – 20 knots) behind a rib or power boat can seriously
damage the hull. Boats damaged in this manner are not covered by the warranty. LaserPerformance recommends
a maximum towing speed of 6 knots.
Fogh Marine | 416 251-0384 | www.foghmarine.com | [email protected]

LaserPerformance NORTH AMERICA
300 Highpoint Avenue
Portsmouth, Rhode Island 02871
t+1 800 966 SAIL
f+1 401 683 0990
LaserPerformance EUROPE
Station Works, Long Buckby
Northamptonshire NN6 7PF
United Kingdom
t+44 (0) 1327 841600
f+44 (0) 1327 841601
LaserPerformance ASIA
Room 3415
China Merchants Tower
Shun Tak Centre
No. 168-200 Connaught Road Central
Hong Kong
t+852 2902 2818
f+852 2587 7868
LaserPerformance AUSTRALIA
t+61 (0) 3 9016 4151
LaserPerformance MIDDLE EAST
T5 Middle East LLC
Dubai Investment Park
PO Box 38442
Dubai, UAE
t+971 (4) 885 7601
LASERPERFORMANCE.COM
All rights reserved. ©2008 LaserPerformance.
LaserPerformance and associated logos are
trademarks. Laser, SB3, Sunfish, and Dart
are trademarks used under license.
LaserPerformance reserves the right to make
design and/or specification changes to any
of their products as part of their continuous
development program.
Fogh Marine | 416 251-0384 | www.foghmarine.com | [email protected]