LaserPerformance FUNBOAT Quick start guide

FUNBOAT
FUNBOAT
Rigging Manual
1 Glossary
2 Basic safety afloat
3 Identify all parts
4 Assembly
5 Reefing your Funboat
6 Care and Maintenance
7 Examination Report

Funboat Rigging Instructions
Funboat Assembly Manual
Included in this guide are simple instructions for the assembly of your Funboat. e diagrams and commentary are
intended as an aid for the assembly of your Funboat and are not a user manual. If any aspect of the assembly is not
clear or you require further advice or assistance then please contact LaserPerformance.
1. Glossary
Aft: e back of the boat
Bow: e front of the boat
Batten: A thin plastic strip which fits into a long narrow
pocket in the sail
Clew: e aft lower corner of the sail
Fairlead: a fitting that leads line in the most ecient
direction for operation
Foot: the bottom edge of the sail
Forward: towards the bow of the boat
Gooseneck: A hinge fitting connecting the boom to the
mast
Gunwale: e outer most edge of the craft
Head: e top corner of the sail
Kicking strap: A line or series of lines between the
base of the mast and the underside of the boom to control
sail twist and boom position
Leach: e trailing edge of the sail
Leeward: e opposite side of the boat from where the
wind is blowing
Lu: e front edge of the sail
Mainsheet: e rope controlling the position of the
mainsail
Mast Step: e position on the hull or deck in which the
mast is located
Port: e left hand side of a boat looking forward
Reefing: e ability to shorten the sails appropriate to
the degree of wind strength
Starboard: e right hand side of the boat looking
forward
Stern: e aft-most area of the boat
Tack: e lower corner of sail
Tiller: A length of tube, usually wood, aluminum or
carbon fiber, that fits into the rudder head to allow
steerage
Tiller handle: A handle connected to the tiller by a
universal joint
Windward: e side of the boat closest to the wind
2. Basic safety afloat
Before you go sailing
• e use of a LaserPerformance supplied Funboat mast head float is highly advisable.
(is device will assist in the prevention of complete inversion in the event of capsize).
• Ensure that your level of sailing competency is sucient for the conditions in which you intend to sail.
• Wear suitable clothing and safety equipment for the conditions and time of year. Always wear a buoyancy
aid or life jacket.
• Inform a third party where you are sailing, how many there are of you in the group and when you expect to return.
• Check the local weather forecast: radio, television or the Coast Guard.
• Check the time of high and low tides, if applicable.
• Seek advice on the local conditions if you are sailing in a new area.
• Check the condition of your craft before launching.
• Check for overhead power cables when launching.

3. Identify all parts
Lower mast
Boom and
upper mast
Batten
set
Sister clip large
Traveller
Traveler strop
Mainsheet
Mainsheet block
Cunningham
Clew shockcord
Clew outhaul
Clew hook
Sister clip small
Kicker line
Top kicker block
Traveler block
Clew tie downKicker block with
hook
1. Hull
2. Spar assembly
• Upper mast
• Lower mast
• Boom
3. Rudder assembly
4. Kicking strap block with cleat
5. Top kicker block
6. Mainsheet block with clip
7. Traveler block
8. Large sister clip
9. Small sister clip
10. Clew hook
11. Mainsail
12. Rope kit code
• Mainsheet – 10 meters 8 mm
• Traveler – 1.64 meters 5 mm
• Traveler strop – 0.63 meters 5 mm
• Kicker line – 2.7 meters 6 mm
• Cunningham – 1.0 meter 4 mm
• Clew outhaul – 3.0 meters 4 mm
• Clew tie down – 0.35 meters 4 mm
• Outhaul shockcord – 1.12 meters 5 mm
Rudder
assembly
Mainsail

figure 1
figure 2
figure 3
figure 4
figure 5bfigure 5a
4. Assembly
1. Insert the upper mast into the lower mast, ensuring
that the two arrows are aligned. (figure 1)
2. Insert the assembled mast into the lu tube of the
mainsail and pull the sail over the mast. Ensure that the
mast is fully entered into and firmly pushed completely
into the lu tube. (figure 2)
3. Insert the battens into the batten pockets. Ensure
that the inboard batten tip is located into the elastic at
the bottom end of the batten pocket. e outboard end
of the batten is tucked under the flap on the outside edge
of the sail. (figure 3) (figure 4)
5. Insert the mast into the mast step. Ensure that the
mast gate claw springs over the mast step collar on the
lower mast. (figure 5a) (figure 5b)
Warning: e mast is metal and is an electrical conductor.
Contact with overhead electric wires could be fatal,
please exercise extreme caution when raising the mast,
launching and sailing.

figure 6
figure 7
figure 8
figure 9
figure 11
figure 10
6. Attach the clew outhaul hook to the boom with the
clew tie down line using a reef knot. (figure 6)
7. Tie the clew outhaul to the fairlead on the outboard end
of the boom. read the clew outhaul through the hook
and back through the fairlead. Ensure that the outhaul is
threaded from right to left. (figure 7)
8. Take the outhaul forward and down the left hand side
of the boom. read the line through the fairlead on the
front end of the boom from left to right.
Attach one of the small sister clips to the end of the out-
haul with an over hand stop knot.
Attach the other sister clip to the outhaul shockcord and
join the two clips together. Attach the other end of the
shockcord to the outhaul hook. (figure 8)
9. Tie the cunningham line to the stainless steel D- ring
on the front of the sail. read the cunningham line
through the lacing eye on the front of the mast. Tension
the cunningham line and tie o. (figure 9)
10. Clip the boom onto the lower mast above the
gooseneck plug. (figure 10)
11. Secure the clew hook onto the clew
of the sail. Tension the outhaul so that the clew tie
down is approximately 285 mm from the end of the boom.
is is a good place to start for medium conditions.
e stronger the wind, the more tension required on the
outhaul. Secure the outhaul line in the cleat. (figure 11)
285mm

12. read the traveler line through the travel-
er block and attach the two ends of the traveler
to the traveler fairlead with a bowline or a
overhand stop knot and half hitch. (figure 12)
(figure 13a)
13. Tie the traveler strop to the traveler block
with a overhand stop knot and half hitch and
tie the other end to the large sister clip with a
overhand stop knot. (figure 13) (figure 13a)
Important: e length of the traveller line and
strop should be adjusted so that the traveller block is
positioned 395 mm from the center of the deck to the
centre of the block sheave and the distance between the
center of the traveler block and mainsheet block is 510
mm. See illus. 12/13. Do not reduce this as it will adverse-
ly eect the performance of your Funboat.
14. read the end of the mainsheet through
the bottom of the boom end block and secure
with a figure of eight stop knot. (figure 14a)
(figure 14b)
read the mainsheet through the blocks as
illustrated in figure 14 and along the boom,
through the webbing strap, through the
forward mainsheet block and down through
the block on the foredeck. Tie a figure 8 stop
knot in the end of the mainsheet to prevent it
from coming out of the mainsheet block on the
deck.
15. Assemble the kicking strap line to the two
blocks and attach to the mast and boom as
illustrated in figure 15 a, b, & c.
Important: Overtensioning the kicking strap will
adversely eect the sailing performance of your Funboat.
figure 14a
figure 15a figure 15b figure 15c
figure 14b
figure 12
figure 13
figure 13a
510mm
395mm

16. Fit the rudder assembly to the gudgeon plate.
(figure 16)
e rudder retaining clip locates the rudder
stock when the rudder assembly is positioned
on the gudgeon plate and should be adjusted
so that the stock cannot be removed without
depressing the clip by hand.
17. To put the rudder blade down from the fully
up position lift the tiller slightly and push
backwards. (figure 17)
18. e rudder assembly has a kick-up system
so that if you run aground the rudder will come
up automatically. is can be adjusted by reposi-
tioning the plastic buer under the tiller. When
the rudder blade is fully down the tiller should
locate over the capstone on the stock.
If the rudder blade can be moved backwards
from the tip more than 3 mm then the plastic
buer under the tiller should be moved
forward to remove the slack. e buer is
adjusted by loosening the Allen screws with
Allen key provided. Adjust to desired setting and
retention the screws. (figure 18)
Warning: e kick-up system is a safety feature in case
you run aground accidentally. Under normal circum-
stances the rudder should be lifted before approaching the
beach or slipway.
To lift the rudder raise the tiller slightly to
disengage the lock down mechanism and pull
the tiller towards you.
figure 16
figure 17
figure 18

19. Before you go sailing, ensure that the 2
transom bungs and the 3 hatches are fully
tightened. (figure 19a) (figure 19b)
20. If you capsize when sailing the Funboat it is
very easy to pull upright. Simply pull backwards
on the black handle under the hull beside the
mast step and at the same time climb onto the
lower hull. As you do this the Funboat will come
upright. (figure 20a) (figure 20b)
21. If the Funboat turns completely
upside down, climb between the hulls from
the transom. Using one of the handles
underneath the hull at the back of the boat
pull backwards, while pushing down the on the
opposite hull. As the Funboat comes upright
move forward and pull on the forward handle
as described above.
5. Reefing your Funboat
In strong winds, or if you are unsure whether
you can cope with the conditions, it is always
best to reef the sail down to reduce its area.
A) Uncleat and slacken the kicking strap rope.
(figure 21)
B) Unclip the kicking strap from the mast.
(figure 21)
C) Uncleat and slacken the clew outhaul line and
ensure that the foot of the sail is loose. (figure
22)
D) Rotate the mast in either direction by
turning the mast below the gooseneck.
is will roll the sail around the mast, thus
reducing the sail area. is is reefing. (figure 23)
E) Reattach the kicking strap to the lower mast
but leave it loose.
F) Recleat the clew outhaul and pull it tight.
G) Retighten the kicking strap.
figure 19a
figure 20a
figure 20b
figure 21 figure 22 figure 23
figure 19b

6. Care, Maintenance and Service of your LaserPerformance
Product
Before rigging your boat, read and familiarize yourself with the rigging manual. Failure to adhere to these guide-
lines could invalidate your warranty.
Maintenance
• Keep the equipment clean by frequently flushing with fresh water. In corrosive atmospheres, stainless parts may
show discoloration/brown staining around screw holes and rivets. is is not serious and can be removed with
a fine abrasive.
• Excess water should be removed from the hull.
• Ropes, rigging and fittings should be checked at regular intervals for wear and tear, including winch gear.
• All moving parts should be lightly lubricated to avoid jamming, i.e., McLube, dry Teflon or a dry silicone
based spray. Do not use oil.
• Inspect shackles, pins and clevis rings and tape up to stop snagging sails, ropes and clothing and to prevent
them from coming undone.
• When refastening screws do not over tighten as this may strip the thread and do not reuse Nyloc nuts more
than three times.
• Damaged or worn parts should be replaced.
• Sails should be thoroughly washed down with fresh water, dried and stored in a dry place.
Trailers and Trolleys/Dollies
• It is highly recommended that a trolley/dolly is used to launch and recover your boat. Dragging your hull up onto a
beach or slip way will wear away the gel coat or polyethylene and damage the boat. Also, the hull should not be left
on a pebble beach as the hull skin could be dented.
• Trailers should be rinsed with fresh water and checked at regular intervals. It is recommended that trailers be
serviced annually. e trailer and road base should never be immersed in water.
• Trailers and trolleys supplied by LaserPerformance are designed to transport the hull in the best possible manner
to avoid damaging the hull. For instance, LaserPerformance does not recommend support hulls on rollers except on
the keel line and only where there is a reinforced keelson. We also recommend gunwale hung trolleys for our small-
er products. Hulls supported by a trolley bunk or wide strap must have the ability to drain water away from the
hull. Trolley bunks padded with carpet or foam can cause blistering in the gel coat and changes to the hull color.
Please do not transport your LaserPerformance product on a trailer or trolley that has not been specifically designed
for the product. Hulls damaged through using an incorrectly designed or wrongly set up trailer or trolley are not
covered under warranty.
• When securing your boat to a trailer for transport be very careful that ratchet straps and ropes are not over tight-
ened and that there is sucient padding under the strap or rope to prevent the hull/deck from being damaged
through abrasion or pressure.
• Top covers must not be allowed to “flap” when driving at speed. is can abrade the surface of the hull and
damage it. It is recommended if you are towing and plan to use your top cover that an under cover is fitted first
to prevent cover flap damage to the top sides of the hull.
• Repairs to the polyethylene or GRP hulls should be undertaken by persons with the relevant equipment and skills.
Contact LaserPerformance for advice.
Storage
• Your boat should always be tied down securely to the ground when not in use.
• UV light will cause fading to some components and fittings. A cover is recommended to reduce the UV degradation.
• Do not leave the rig under tension when not sailing or during storage.
• Care must be taken to support the hull adequately if storing on racking or similar. Any sustained point loading
could permanently dent or distort the hull.
• Under covers for LaserPerformance products should be produced from a breathable or semi breathable fabric to
allow moisture to evaporate away from the hull. is is essential to prevent damage to the hull skin. Also, the hull
should never be left in the under cover wet or damp. A combination of moisture and heat over an extended period
can also damage the hull. e under cover is designed to protect the hull when being transported and should be
removed when the hull is being stored. Typical damage includes small bubbles or blisters, excessive print through
of glass reinforcement, foam or wood and color change.
• Rudders and centerboards must never be stored wet in carry/combo bags. is can cause blistering, print through
and warpage.
• All our GRP products are designed to be dry sailed. In other words stored on dry land. If you intend to leave your
boat on a mooring for any length of time it is essential that you apply an osmosis barrier coat. LaserPerformance
can recommend a suitable product.
On Water Towing
• Towing your LaserPerformance product at high speed (10 – 20 knots) behind a rib or power boat can seriously
damage the hull. Boats damaged in this manner are not covered by the warranty. LaserPerformance recommends
a maximum towing speed of 6 knots.

7. Examination Report

All rights reserved. ©2017 LaserPerformance.
LaserPerformance and associated logos are
trademarks. Laser, the Sunburst Device, Sunfish
and Dart are trade marks used under license.
LaserPerformance reserves the right to make
design and/or specification changes to any
of their products as part of their continuous
development program.
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