Leisure L23 User manual

L23 and 23SL
Owners Manual
Leisure Owners Association
Issue 1
May 2012
1

Disclaimer
All the information and advice contained in this Manual is offered in good
faith, but it essentially reflects the experience and views of individual
members. The Association cannot, and does not, warrant the accuracy,
safety or practicability of any of the material.
Safety
Readers are urged to read, and to adhere to, the advice, particularly in a
Health and Safety context, given by manufacturers concerning use of
their products.
Copyrig t
A this material is the copyright of the eisure Owners Association and/or
the Authors, and may not be reproduced without express written consent
from the Association.
Table of Contents
Section Page
Introduction 4
Starting Out
Hull and Deck
Engines and Propulsion Systems
5
8
11
Mast and Standing Rigging 14
Rudder and Skeg 16
Sails and Running Rigging 17
Windows and Hatches 20
Cabin Interior 22
Electrics and Instruments 24
2

Alphabetical Index
Alcohol vs Gas...................................................25
Alternator.....................................................26, 27
Antifouling.........................................................11
Autopilot.............................................................28
Batteries..............................................................26
Battery..........................................................27, 28
Bleeding Fuel ine.......................................13, 14
Boom............................................8, 16, 17, 19, 20
Charging.................................................26, 27, 28
Cleats............................................................11, 17
Cockpit Drains....................................................11
Deck Fittings................................................11, 12
Derusting Keels..................................................11
Electrics....................................................2, 26, 27
Engine Maintenance...............................14, 21, 27
Engine Manuals............................................14, 28
Engines.....................................................2, 13, 14
Exhaust...............................................................15
Foresail...........................................................8, 16
Fuel ........................................................13, 14, 15
Furling Gear.......................................................17
Galley.................................................................24
Gas..........................................................15, 24, 25
Grab Rail............................................................11
Halyard.......................................7, 8, 9, 19, 20, 21
Hatches...............................................2, 12, 22, 23
Heater.................................................................25
History..................................................................6
Hull...........................................................2, 10, 12
Instruments...............................................2, 26, 27
Keels.............................................................11, 12
azyjacks............................................................21
ighting........................................................27, 28
og...............................................................27, 28
owering Mast.............................................12, 17
Mainsail....................................................8, 17, 21
Manuals........................................................14, 28
Mast............................................2, 6, 7, 12, 16, 17
Mast and Rigging.................................................7
Mast Heel...........................................................17
NASA og..........................................................28
Oil eak..............................................................15
Outboard.................................................14, 27, 28
Overheating............................................13, 14, 15
Plastimo........................................................17, 21
Propeller.............................................................14
Propeller Bearing................................................15
Reefing.......................................16, 17, 19, 20, 21
Rigging Diagram............................................7, 19
Rudder......................................................2, 10, 18
Running Rigging......................................2, 16, 19
Safety................................................................2, 7
Saildrive..................................................11, 14, 15
Seal.................................11, 12, 14, 15, 18, 22, 23
Skeg..........................................................2, 10, 18
Solar Panel..........................................................28
Spirit vs Gas.......................................................25
Stanchion......................................................11, 12
Standing Rigging....................................2, 6, 7, 16
Switch Panel.................................................27, 28
Tiller.............................................................14, 18
Upholstery..........................................................25
VHF..........................................................9, 27, 28
Water Inlet....................................................14, 15
Water Pump........................................................15
Water Tank..........................................................25
Winches..............................................................12
Wind Generator..................................................28
Windows.........................................................2, 22
Wiring.....................................................26, 27, 28
.............................................................................2
3

Issue 5
April 2012
LEISURE OWNERS ASSOCIATION
L23 and 23SL Owners Manual
Section 1
Introduction
Purpose and Structure
The purpose of this Manual is to provide a comprehensive reference for these boats, including
descriptions of repairs, modifications etc that owners have carried out.
Although the two boats are considerably different in appearance, this is largely because of the
design of the topsides. The hull, rudder, skeg, mast rig etc are identical, although the internal fit
out differs slightly.
The Manual is structured in a series of Sections, each dealing with a different aspect of the boat,
eg Mast & Standing Rigging. Inevitably, there is a degree of overlap between sections, eg in
which should go methods of turning lines back to the cockpit. Each Section opens with a
description and pictures of the original arrangements – where possible – then continues with
information about repair, modification etc. The latter material has been culled from a variety of
sources, and much editing, particularly of the material extracted from the two old Forums, has
been necessary. No material from the Forum opened in March 2012 is included. It has been
produced only in an electronic form, partly because of the sheer volume of material, but mostly
because this approach allows for updated versions readily to be produced. Individual pages can
be printed as hard copies eg, to take to the boat for a particular project.
Histor of the Boats
Production of the original design (OD) eisure 23 was started by Cobramold in about 1972 at their
factory in Stansted. This model was replaced by the 23S , with its characteristic ‘sharpie’ look, in
about 1978, still being manufactured by Cobramold. But by the early 1980s, production had
passed into the hands of Brinecraft, at their Brightlingsea facility – and they changed the colour
of the below–decks mouldings from brown to white, thus providing a ready means of identifying
the builder of any one boat. Production continued until around 1986/7, when a major fire brought
things to a halt. A few boats were subsequently produced in Germany, but effectively, eisure
yachts were no longer being made. The moulds are believed now to be in Poland.
Specifications
The original brochure for both boats can be found on our main website: 23 and S 23. Most boats
were built as twin keel versions, but some were fin keeled.
Acknowledgements
This manual has not been produced by the ‘Association’. It is a compendium of some factual
information, but it primarily reflects the advice and experience of individual members, who have
taken the time, over the years, to commit these to paper. We are extremely grateful to these folk.
Most of the material has been extracted from the Forum on the old website, and from the Forum
and the ibrary on the new site. If YOU have something which YOU could contribute, then please
send this to the me for inclusion in the Reference ibrary.
Barri Hopkins
Editor
4

Issue 3
April 2012
Section 2
Starting Out
Introduction
So, you have bought your eisure 23 and are now looking
at the boat with its sails off, its mast down, bits of rope
and wire all over the place, desperately trying to
remember what the previous owner told you. Hopefully,
the information below will be helpful. It must be said
however, that many owners have modified their boats, and
the following guidance relates to a ‘standard’ 23 – if one
exists. Also, there are slight differences in the mast and
rigging between the 23 and 23S .
Safet
The first and essential step is to ensure that the boat is safe to work on. If she is standing on the
ground, then chock up the skeg so that she cannot tip backwards. Similarly, another piece of
wood jammed between the forward end of the hull and the ground will stop her rocking forward.
If the boat is on a trailer, ensure that she is firmly lashed to the trailer both fore and aft. Either
couple the trailer to the car, or chock up the rear of the trailer so that it cannot tip backwards.
Mast and Rigging
Diagrams for the 23S and 23 can be found at Rigging Diagram 23S and Rigging Diagram 23
The mast can be raised by two people, although a third pair of hands is always useful to clear the
inevitable snagging of a wire or rope (it is much safer to let the yard or sailing club staff raise the
mast with a crane). Guidance on raising (and lowering) the mast is contained in Section 5, Mast
and Standing Rigging.
First, the mast must be properly orientated and the running rigging (rope) and standing rigging
(wire) must be correctly positioned.
Make sure that the heel of the mast is over the bow, that the sail track (groove) is facing
downwards and that the furling genoa foil is lying on top of the mast and spreaders. The backstay
should be lying underneath the mast. Drape the backstay bridle over the stern. The two cap
(upper) shrouds should each run through the alloy fitments on the end of the spreaders with split
pins or screws ensuring that the shrouds cannot escape; the spreaders themselves should be
secured to the mast by split pins or nuts and bolts. The bottle screw on each upper shroud can
now be connected to the middle deck eye. The forward and aft lower shrouds can now be
connected to their deck eyes.
Next, and a most important step loosely tie the top of each bottle screw to the guard wire with a
piece of shock cord. Failure to make the bottle screws ‘stand up’ like this can result in bent or
broken bottle screws, should they become snagged on the deck eyes as the mast is raised.
Before going on to raise the mast, check that all the running rigging is in its proper place. There
should be at least three ropes – the topping lift, main halyard and genoa halyard, plus a thin
signal halyard from the starboard spreader from which you proudly fly your eisure Owners
pennant. There may also be a cruising ‘chute or spinnaker halyard.
The:
•topping lift runs over the rearmost sheave on the mast head (crane) and runs up and
down entirely external to the mast and should be lying underneath the spreaders
•main halyard emerges from the mast crane in front of the topping lift but runs down inside
the mast and exits via a sheave at the foot of the mast
•genoa halyard routes over the sheave on the front of the mast, and exits down inside the
mast and out via a sheave on the foot
•thin signal halyard runs through an eye or small block on the underside of the starboard
spreader.
5

At this stage, check that the radio aerial is mounted and that the masthead navigation lights,
work.
Before going on to raise the mast, it is worth spraying the sail tracks on the boom, mast, and
furling genoa foil with a dry silicone spray. This considerably eases the mounting of the sails.
With the mast erected, insert the boom gooseneck - long bit downwards - into the slot or gate in
the mast (Fig 1), with the sail track of the boom uppermost. Insert the split pin (which should be
dangling on a piece of cord from the mast) into the hole in the mast sail track below the gate and
let the boom rest on it. Connect the topping lift to the end of the boom to support it in a
horizontal position, and shackle the main sheet to the tang on the end of the boom and to the
horse – the slider on the rail across the companion way on the 23S or, on some 23s, across the
transom. You are now ready for the mainsail.
.
Mainsail
Insert the aft corner (clew) of the sail into the groove on the boom and ease the sail along the
boom. Shackle or lash the forward end (tack) to the lug on the roller reefing plate, and lash the
other end to the cast eye on the end of the boom. Shackle the main halyard to the head of the
sail. Insert the head of the sail into the gate and haul the sail up, feeding the sliders or boltrope
into the gate as you go. Make off the halyard on a cleat on the mast.
Insert the second split pin into the hole in the track just above the upper gate. There should be a
boom downhaul which is fitted between the lug on the under side of the gooseneck and the mast
step bolt so that the mainsail, once raised and with the lower split pin removed, can be tensioned
by pulling the boom down with the downhaul (Fig 2).
Originally, the main sail was furled by
inserting a cranked handle into the
gooseneck fitting and turning to wind the
sail around the boom. The kicking strap
function was provided via a large
horseshoe claw, which allowed the boom
and sail to rotate within it. If you have a
claw, it should be lashed to the aft end of
the boom so that it lies about 3ft from the
mast. A downhaul should be fitted between
the claw and the mast step bolt. However, many owners have changed to slab reefing, where the
sail is pulled down onto the boom and not wound round it. In this case, there should be a fitting
underneath the boom so that a kicking strap, with its own jamming block, can be connected
between it and the mast step (Fig 2).
Foresail
As originally supplied, both models had a forestay onto which the genoa was simply clipped by
piston hanks. Many owners have since converted to furling genoas, where the sail is wound onto
a foil which rotates around the forestay. There are many different models in existence, but the
6

principles are the same.
Before hoisting the genoa – on a calm day - check that the forestay is tight; if it is slack,
problems will occur. Shackle the halyard to the top mounting of the top swivel of the furling kit,
feed the head of the genoa into the sail track and shackle it to the lower mounting of the top
swivel. Haul on the genoa halyard whilst a second pair of hand feeds the sail. When fully hoisted,
shackle the foot of the sail to the mounting on the lower drum. Apply as much tension as possible
to the halyard, and make it off on a cleat on the mast.
The next task is to get the reefing line – assuming it is a single line – wound onto the drum. Roll
the genoa around the foil by twisting the foil, so that the sail is wound as tightly as possible, with
the UV strip on the outside of the bundle. Put a tie around it. Connect the reefing line to the
drum and twist the bundle to put lots of turns on the drum. Some careful thinking is required to
determine the correct direction of twist!! Connect the genoa sheets to the clew of the genoa and
then test the unfurling/furling action, keeping slight tension on the genoa sheets. If the genoa
won’t furl completely, you will need to remove the sheets and put a few more turns on the drum.
Engine
Your engine could be an outboard, or an inboard diesel or petrol, sail drive or shaft drive – the
latter is not common. It is difficult to offer any advice with such a wide range of possible motors.
The following pointers are largely obvious. Before going afloat, or leaving the mooring or
pontoon, ensure that:
•for inboard engines, the cooling water inlet valve is open, and that water is emerging from
the exhaust when the engine is run
•for outboard engines, the vent screw on the top of the tank is open, and that water is
emerging from the tell-tale tube when the engine is run
•you have plenty of fuel
•the propeller turns when a gear is selected
Miscellaneous
Before going afloat, or leaving the mooring or pontoon, ensure that:
•you have a list of all the things you should do/check – and do, or check them
•all seacocks (except the engine cooling water intake) are shut, and that the log impeller,
or the log blanking cap or plug, is in place.
•any gas supply is turned off at the cylinder
•you have a serviceable boathook – preferably two
•you and your crew are wearing buoyancy aids
•the VHF radio works
•you are flying your ensign – and of course, your OA pennant
from the starboard spreader.
7

Issue 3
Mar 2012
Section 3
Hull & Deck
General
Both versions have identical hulls, but the superstructure differs markedly. The S is readily
identified by its ‘sharpie’ form, with its sloping coach roof, whereas the original design had a
stepped coach roof. This, and other differences in design can be seen in the brochures for the two
models Brochures. Both fin and twin keel versions were built, though the latter predominates.
Nine colours were available, at extra cost, but the most popular colour was white.
Most boats have a tendency to list to port, a feature which some owners have compensated for
by, eg, carrying an inflatable in the cockpit starboard locker, or shifting a battery to the starboard
side.
Hull
The hull itself is a very substantial one-piece GRP construction, with the thickness of the material
approaching 25mm in the bows. The join between the hull and superstructure is covered
externally by a teak rubbing strake, through bolted and, in most cases, with the screw heads
recessed and plugged; some have bolts whose heads are simply countersunk. Internally, the bond
is covered by a broad teak ply strip. There are very few known cases of osmosis with these hulls.
The skeg and the keels are both bolted-on additions (Rudders and Skegs are covered in Section
6). The keels are rough steel castings, and are inevitably subject to rusting and pitting where the
protective coating has been damaged. The effects are more cosmetic than serious, and
treatment of rusty keels is the subject of a few items below. They are affixed to the hull by
stainless studs, whose stainless nut are accessible below the cabin sole, but are covered with a
thick coating of flo-coat.. No problems are known to have arisen from this method of securing
the keels .
The issue of antifouling would fill a manual in its own right, particularly the question of which
product to use. Its largely a question of 'you pays your money and takes your choice'. There are,
however, a few basic guidelines:
•make good any significant damage with an epoxy filler
•lightly abrade the existing coating, with WET abrasive paper. Doing it with dry paper
produces toxic dust.
•do not use hand or power wire brushes to remove rust. This action polishes the metal.
•check that your intended antifouling is compatible with the existing coating. If you are
unsure, put a tie coat on first.
•apply the antifoul generously.
Deck and Coach Roof
The two GRP skins of the roof enclose a balsa core; these skins merge at the edges of the roof to
form solid GRP walls, of irregular thickness, in which the windows are fitted. The side decks also
incorporate a balsa core. All the cockpit benches, walls, bulkheads etc are single skin GRP. There
are moulded-in non-slip areas in the gelcoat, and winch pads on the coach roof and coaming. Few
problems are known to have arisen, with this form of construction, except where water leaks
around fittings have caused the balsa core to soften, and then be crushed as attempts are made
to tighten the loose fittings. There have also been one or two cases where delamination has
occurred on the side decks; ingress of water through cracks causing the upper deck skin to
bubble up. The cockpit floor is 20mm solid grp.
8

Cockpit
The two models have slightly differently shaped cockpits, but the basic construction is the same.
Both the starboard side and lazarette locker lids are of a relatively light construction, and are
prone to show signs of wear, particularly in the fixing of the hinges to the hull. Replacement
locker lids are not currently available, but should you need one, Hurst Marine, Hurst Marine are
usually ready to consider the case for new mouldings.
Deck Fittings
The ‘standard’ boat was supplied fitted with only two (jib) sheet winches, but most owners have
since fitted additional winches, turning blocks, clutches etc on the coach roof. Stanchions were an
optional extra. Any new fittings should be provided with a substantial marine ply backing plate
and penny washers. There should be no need to dig out the balsa core, unless this has collapsed.
All the fixings for the coach roof fittings can be accessed from within the cabin, but the teak ply
ceiling has to be removed (see Section 8, Cabin Interior). Those on the side decks and bridge
deck, mainly sheet tracks and stanchion bases, can be accessed from within the cabin by
removing the teak ply cover panels. Different types of stanchion bases will be found; the only
known difficulties concern corrosion between the stanchions and bases, making the former very
difficult to remove. (The other problem relates to ‘helpful’ folk grabbing the top of the stanchion
as one comes alongside, the considerable leverage exerted causing hairline cracks in the deck…..)
Fixings for the cleats and winches on the coaming can be accessed via
the cockpit lockers or quarter berth.
All the deck hardware - cleats, tracks, Samson post , bow roller, etc ,are
through-bolted pieces of kit, and with the exception of the stanchions,
there have been few reported problems. The picture, showing a badly
elongated fixing hole in the stemhead, illustrates the need, occasionally,
to inspect such items.
Cockpit Drains
As supplied, the boats were fitted with crossed-over drains, without seacocks. Whether the skin
fittings exited the hull above or below the water line seems to have been a random decision by
the fitter. Much has been queried and written about these drains – sometimes referred to as self-
bailers – as will be seen in the Forum items below.
Repair, Modifications etc
Reference Library Items
Cockpit Drains Modification
Forehatch Seal in g
Grab Rail Refurbishm ent 1
Grab Rail Refurbishment 2
Marking the Waterline
Midship Cleats
Osmosis
Saildrive Aperture Closing
Water eak Through Deck
Forum Items
Anchor Chain
Antifouling Preparation
Cockpit Drains
Cockpit Drains
Cockpit Drains and Cowls
Cockpit ocker Hinges
Contrast Stripe
Copper Antifouling
Displacement
Derusting Keels
Dodgers
Extra Keel
9

Extra Stanchion
Forehatch Seal
Guardwire Replacement
Hatches in Cockpit
Jackstays
Keel Hull Joint
Keel Preparation
Keel Spacing
azarette ocker id Deformed
azarette Rainwater
eaking Deck Fittings
ines Back to Cockpit
ist to Port
ist to Port
Main Hatch Removal
Mast owering
Osmosis
Paint Removal
Polishing the Hull
Rust Spots
Rust Spots on Gelcoat
Rusty Keels
Seacock Servicing
Self-bailing Cockpit
Sprayhood
Stemhead Removal
Surveys
Surveys and Keel Bolts
Washboard Dimensions
Winch Replacement 2
Winches 1
Winches Coachroof Mounting
10

Issue 4
April2012
Section 4
Engines and Propulsion Systems
Original Arrangements
Both boats were originally offered with a fitted outboard bracket as
standard, with a choice of petrol or diesel saildrive engines as optional
extras. Engines from Vire, Petter and Volvo were offered, mostly
about 7.5hp. Many of these of these original engines have survived,
despite their age, but many have been replaced by more powerful
units. If a purchaser opted for an inboard engine, a small fuel tank of
about 20 litres capacity was fitted in the lazarette, with the filler
situated in the top of the transom coaming.
The vast majority of boats now have inboard diesel engines, a few of
these being shaft driven, and the information below essentially relates
to these inboard diesels. The picture shows a newly-installed Volvo
D1-13
Overheating
This is probably one of the most frequent problems that arises, frequently signalled by the
overheat alarm sounding, or steam issuing from the exhaust. The causes are many and varied,
but two of the more obvious, and easy ones to check, are a blocked water inlet eg by a plastic
bag, or an impeller failure; Yanmar engines suffered particularly from the latter. A quick look at
the exhaust outlet will tell if cooling water is being ejected or not. Other causes are more difficult
to diagnose and cure, as will be seen in the items below. Mismatch between engine and propeller
is one of the less obvious reasons; some indication of this is given if the exhaust smoke is black
when the engine is more or less flat out.
Engine Failure
One of the more worrying problems. The most usual reason for this is either a blocked fuel line or
air in the fuel line. Guidance on bleeding air from the system can be found in the Reference
ibrary items below. A suspected blockage in the system – or, rarely, a failed pump – can be
checked by loosening the fuel feed at the injector(s) and cranking the engine with the throttle
wide open. If there is no seepage of fuel - a piece of kitchen towel is an excellent tell-tale - then
there is a blockage. Working back through the pipework, loosening one joint at a time and
cranking the engine, should enable the blocked section to be identified and removed for cleaning
out. And then bleeding the system.
Starting Difficulties
There is a host of reasons why an engine my be sluggish to start, including a faulty injector, poor
compression due eg to stuck piston rings, and air in the system. A low battery can also be the
culprit because it turns the engine over too slowly. If the engine hasn't fired up within about 20
secs of total cranking time, then the cooling water inlet valve should be closed until the engine is
running. Failure to do this results in a build up of cooling water in the exhaust system which could
find its way into a cylinder, with expensive results.
Sometimes, a reluctant engine can be persuaded to start with a shot of a 'quick start' spray into
the air intake, but the use of this should be avoided, if possible, because there is apparently a
real risk of serious damage to the engine. An alternative – not always practicable – is to warm the
air intake, eg with a hair drier!
Fuel
All fuel, particularly diesel, should be filtered as it is poured into the tank. A funnel with an
11

integral filter is the usual method of doing this. Fuel tanks, particularly if holding diesel, should
be kept full. This avoids the inevitable sludge at the bottom of the tank being stirred up as it
would be if the fuel level was low, and the sea conditions were rough. And for steel tanks, it also
helps to avoid water condensation within the tank, and the consequent risk of breeding the
dreaded diesel bug – though less seems to be heard of it these days.
Some members are advocates of adding a cleaning additive to the fuel, such as Diesel Redex.
This product is claimed to help free sticky piston rings, and at least one member reports positive
results. Some members also prefer to use white road diesel.
Maintenance
All engines require regular and proper maintenance as specified in the relevant owners handbook.
Before the engine is finally 'put to bed 'for the winter, the cooling system should be flushed, first
with fresh water, and then with a strong solution of anti-freeze. The oil, and the oil filter, also
should be changed before the boat is laid up, and the oil should be changed again, mid-season ,if
the engine has had considerable use. The primary fuel filter (sometimes called the water
separator) should be changed at the beginning of each season.
Repair, Modifications etc
Outboard Engines
Reference Library Items
Outboard Tiller
Outboard Steering Device
Impeller Change 4HP Mariner
Forum Items
Emergency Outboard Bracket
Outboard Air In Fuel ine
Outboard Emergency Engine
Outboard Overheating
Outboard Remote Control
Outboard Replacement
Outboard What Size 2
Replacement Outboard
Reversing With Outboard
Yamaha Outboard Problems
Inboard Engines, Saildrives and Propellers
Manuals
110S Saildrive Workshop Manual
2000 Operators Manual
2000 Workshop Manual
2010 Operators Manual
2010 Workshop Manual
MB2 50S Installation Manual
MB2 50S Operators Manual
MB2A/50S Workshop Manual
MD5A / Saildrive 110s Brochure
MD6A/7A Workshop Manual
MD7A Operators Manual
Petter 6 AB1W Operators Manual
Petter AC1WM Operators Manual
Ot er Reference Library Items
Bleeding MD 5A
Bleeding MD7A
Fuel Sight Gauge
Installing 110S Saildrive
Installing 110S Saildrive
ubr icants
MB2 Notes
MB2 Tips
MD5 Seawater Pump
MD7A Rebuild
MDA/B/C Parts ist
Propeller Calculation Propking xls
Propeller Calculation xls
Propeller s - Choosing
Seal Replacement 110S
Seal Replacement 120S
Volvo Folding Prop Maintenance
Water Inlet Modification
12

Forum Items
Alarm Buzzer Failure
Anode for Saildrive
Barnacles on Prop
Decoke or Not
Exhaust Hose Replacement
Exhaust Muffler
Exhaust Problems
Fuel ine Pressurization
Head Gas ket eak
Inboard What Size
MB2 50S Fuel Pump
MB2 Spares
MB2A 50S Seacock
MB5 50S Removal
MB5A Removal
MD5A Water Pump problem
MD5A/2001 Overheating
MD72010 Control Panel Problems
MD7A Oil eak
MD7A Oil eak 2
MD7A Overheating
Overheating
Overheating Alarm Amplifying
Painting the Engine
Petter 6 Mountings
Prop Bearing Housing Corrosion
Prop Blade oss
Prop Cone Removal
Prop Corrosion
Prop Damage
Prop Size
Prop Sizing
Prop Suppliers
Replacement Engine
Replacement Engine 2
Replacement Engine 3
Rope Cutters
Saildrive Anode
Saildrive eaking Oil
Saildrive Oil Filler
Saildrive Ratios et al
Saildrive Water Contamination
Saildrive 110S Seal
Seawater Filter
Sound Insulation
Water in Engine Oil
Water Inlet Alternative
Water Pump eak 2
13

Issue 5
April2012
Section 5
Mast & Standing Rigging
Original
Both versions were originally provided with black
or gold anodised masts and booms, made by
SSSpars – now a long time out of business. A 'lake
rig' 30ft high mast was offered in place of the
standard 26ft item. The mast heel was originally
an alloy block fitted into the bottom of the mast
and which carried the sheaves over which the
internal running rigging was routed. The slot in the
base fits over a matching upstand on the alloy
deck plate. All the rigging is (normally) in 5mm
stainless steel, with three shrouds each side, and
a single backstay connected to two chainplates on
the transom by a wire bridle. The upper shrouds were routed to the masthead via two alloy
spreaders.
The compression load of the mast and rigging is transferred to the hull via the bulkhead door
frame which, in turn, is bedded on the hull via a large dollop of fibreglass.
The original round boom had provision for
roller reefing the main by use of a
cranked handle (the picture is of a DIY
handle) that was inserted into the
gooseneck. The latter fitting had an eye in
a lug on the underside, with a downhaul
attached to it and to the bolt in the mast step, so that the luff of the
mainsail could be hauled tight, once the main had been raised.
Two split pins inserted into the sail track provided resting stops for the
boom and for the sail when lowered. Many owners have dispensed with
this roller reefing in favour of slab reefing, which provides a better set
to the sail when reefed. It is also possible to reef without the need to
leave the cockpit, as is described in the Section 7 ‘Sails, Running
Rigging and Reefing’.
On some boats,the kicking strap function (to prevent the boom rising)
was provided by a roller reefing claw, a horseshoe with internal rollers,
which allowed the boom and rolled sail to rotate within it. This was
lashed to the aft end of the boom so that it lay a roughly 1/3 of the
boom length from the mast. A downhaul was fitted between the claw
and the bolt in the mast step.
Many boats now sport different masts and booms because of mast
breakage or damage. Some have suffered damage to the alloy mast heel and deck plate, both of
which are quite brittle, and are easily damaged if, for example, the mast slews sideways when
being raised or lowered. Ways of making good such damage are included in this Section.
The mainsheet runs on a RWO track through-bolted through the companionway. The car is locked
in place by two spring loaded plungers. Replacement parts are still available for this kit from
some chandlers.
Foresail roller reefing was not supplied originally – sails were simply hanked on – but many
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owners have since converted to roller reefing. More about this in Section 7.
Repair, Modifications etc
Reference Library Items
Colnebrook Furling Gear
Damaged Mast Foot
Painting the Mast
Plastimo Furling
Raising the Mast 1
Forum Items
Anti-snag Cleats
Boom Droop 2
Cruising 'chute Block
Kicking Strap Slide
Mainsail Roller Reefing Handle
owering the Mast
owering the Mast 2
Main Sheet Traveller
Main Sheet Traveller Bearings
Mast Corrosion
Mast Foot Sheaves
Mast Heel Repair
Mast Heel Repair
Mast Raising 2
Mast Raising/ owering
Mast Rake
Mast Sheaves
Raising the Mast
Reefing Boom Single ine
Rigging Replacement
Rigging Tension
Rigging Tension 2
Sagging Boom
Seized Mast Step Bolt
Shroud Tension
What Genoa Furling System
15

Issue 3
April 2012
Section 6
Rudder & Skeg
Rudder and Tiller
The basic construction of the rudder is a stainless steel frame
(though some frames of mild steel are known to exist), encased in a
GRP moulding, and filled with foam. Welded tangs secure the frame
to the rudder stock. The foot of the rudder stock sits in a pintle
bolted to the skeg. The geometry at the foot of the rudder is not
good. The stock runs through a plain bearing on the underside of the
hull, and through a stainless steel plate holding a (replaceable) nylon
bearing at the top of the housing in the cockpit. The stock also runs
up through a tube glassed to the bottom of the hull. Although the top
of this is open, it is above the waterline,thus effectively sealing the
lazarette from water ingress. The tiller pivots vertically in an alloy
tiller head casting, which is internally tapered to fit the taper on the
rudder stock. The head casting is held either by a screw into the rudder stock, or by a nut on the
threaded end of the stock. There is also a grub screw through the side of the casting which
locates in an indentation in the rudder stock.
If the GRP moulding becomes damaged by accident, or repeated heavy grounding, it can lose its
integrity, allowing water to ingress. If the internal structure is of mild steel, then this rusts, and
the fault in the GRP becomes more pronounced. Repair of this critical item is sometimes possible;
if this is not practicable, replacement units are available through the Association’s approved
supplier, Hurst Marine (Hurst Marine ), though not from stock.
The original tiller was shaped from a solid piece of hardwood. Replacements, which are available
from Hurst Marine, are now made from laminated strip-wood. The head casting was originally a
cast alloy fitting, which is easily fractured, either when trying to remove it, or by over-tightening
the bolt through the jaws in an attempt to eliminate slackness when the tiller pivots. The modern
equivalent, also available from Hurst Marine, is machined from solid stainless steel.
Skeg
The construction is similar to that of the rudder. The whole unit is bolted to the hull via studs, the
nuts of which are accessible, through the lazarette. The nuts are flo-coated for protection.
The usual problem with the skeg is identical to that of the rudder, ie the ingress of water. The
deterioration of the structure is sometimes sufficient to allow the skeg to move laterally.
Replacement skegs are available via Hurst Marine.
Repair, Modifications etc
Reference Library
All About Rudder s
oose Tiller
Rudder Schematic
Skeg Redesign (this refers to the 27 but the principles are applicable to the 23)
Skeg Removal
Forum
Rudder and Skeg Repair
Rudder Rumble
Rudder Split
Rudder Stock Play
Skeg Bolt Weeping
Skeg Drainhole
Tiller Extension
Tiller Rot
16

Issue 4
April 2012
Section 7
Sails, Running Rigging and Reefing
Original Arrangements
Both models were originally offered with hanked on foresails and a Barton roller reefing main.
Other sails, slab reefing for the main, and Colnebrook roller reefing for the genoa,were offered as
extras. The main was fitted with sliders rather than a bolt rope.
A question frequently asked is whether the sail number indicates the age of the boat. The answer
is that it doesn't do so precisely, because the sails, (made by Rockall) appear to have been issued
more or less at random.
Laz Jacks
When the main is lowered, it usually flops all over the deck obscuring your view, before being
flaked down and tied onto the boom – not convenient if you are single handed. With lazy jacks
fitted, the sail is constrained into a heap on top of the boom and can be tidied away at leisure.
Many owners also go the next step and fit some form of stackaway pack, where the sail cover is
permanently fitted to the boom. The only downside to fitting lazy jacks is that when raising the
sail, the boat has to be dead to wind, otherwise there is a risk of the battens getting caught
outside the lines.
Running Rigging
As supplied,the halyards were 3/8” diameter braid-on-braid, and the topping lift 1/4”. Many
owners opt for 6mm for the topping lift and genoa furling line, 8mm for halyards and kicking
strap, and 10 or 12mm for the main and genoa sheets. There are no 'standard' lengths of the
various lines; this depends on how the lines are routed and cleated off on the individual boat. The
rigging diagram is at Rigging Diagram.
For safety and convenience reasons, many
boats have their control lines led back to the
cockpit via various turning arrangements of
blocks, and via clutches or jammers on the
coach roof. The picture shows one such
arrangement. Note also in the other picture
that there is no downhaul on this gooseneck;
it is fixed rigidly to the upper mast step bolt
by a metal strap (15mm stainless tubing
flattened at the ends), the luff of the main
being hauled tight by the main halyard.
All lines should be removed from the boat during the winter and inspected for wear. This can be
done easily if a lightweight, say 2 or 3mm, messenger is pulled through on the end of each line. A
good way of joining the two is by sewing a couple of loops onto the end of each line with a
medium whipping twine. The messenger can then be tied on to the loops with a bowline, and the
join covered with plastic insulating tape to taper the joint. Putting the lines in a low temperature
cycle in the washing machine will remove ingrained dirt and salt. It is best to constrain the lines
in a bag, eg an old pillowslip, to reduce the amount of tangling.
The usual problem with lines is either breakage and/or losing a halyard in the mast. Providing
there is still one halyard - or messenger – in the mast, the situation can be retrieved, although
access to the mast head is necessary, either by dropping the mast, or by going up it. In principle,
the existing in-mast line is used to pull TWO messengers (of different colours) through. As soon
as the pair have entered the mast heel, with a bit of bent wire, fish the 'lost' messenger out
through its correct sheave; it may be helpful to remove the sheaves to do this. Then keeping
17

slight tension on to try to stop the messengers twisting, haul away until both messengers appear
at the mast crane. Repeat the bent wire trick, and you should then have two messengers in their
correct positions.
Reefing the Main
Some of the original main roller reefing systems survive; the two difficulties
that do arise are loss of the reefing handle, and the turning mechanism
within the boom fitting becoming jammed. Replacement handles are available
from many chandlers eg Marinestore, but at around £40. But when one
considers that the handle receptacle is simply a square hole in the turning
mechanism, other solutions come to mind, such as getting a local metal
workshop to make simple one. The picture shows a DIY handle.
There is no easy solution to the jammed mechanism problem except WD40. New replacements
are not available, and members have reported considerable difficulties when trying to dismantle
the fitting. If your mechanism has jammed, perhaps this is an opportune time to convert to slab
reefing, which enables a better set to the sail when reefed, and can provide for the reefing to be
done from the cockpit.
All slab reefing systems require the main to have reefing cringles in the leech and luff. Four
cringles would provide two stages of reefing which should be ample. Although these appear to be
simple eyelets, do not be tempted to do it yourself; there are considerable stresses on the sail
when reefed, and the sail has to be heavily reinforced around the cringles.
There are many forms of slab reefing, both commercial and DIY. Broadly they can be classified
into three types:
•single line systems, where one line is used to pull down the leech, the luff cringle being
clipped over a hook affixed to the gooseneck; you have to go the mast with this method.
Barton makes such a system at a cost of about £90, excluding the lines. One supplier is
Jimmy Green
•single line systems where one line pulls down both leech and luff. These systems enable
reefing to be done from the cockpit. The large number of blocks used in such systems
necessitates the use of a winch to overcome the friction. The article in the Reference
ibrary list below, Single ine Reefing, describes such a system (fitted to an 27, but the
principles are the same)
•two line systems, where one line is used for the leech and one for the luff. ess effort is
required, but there are more lines in the cockpit.
All these systems can be installed using the existing boom, by fixing blocks, tracks etc. Booms
are available designed for slab reefing, which make a much tidier – and more expensive – method
of routing the lines along the boom. Before choosing this approach, be sure that the gooseneck
arrangements are compatible with the existing mast and, if you have a spray hood, that the main
sheet will not foul the aft edge of the sprayhood. One supplier is Z Spars.
Reefing the Genoa
Most boats now sport a roller reefing genoa of some sort, whether a continuous line system or
single line. Providing the maker's service instructions are followed, these systems should give
little trouble. Most of the reported difficulties relate either to drums that are stiff to turn, or the
genoa halyard wrapping itself around the reefing foil as the reefing line is wound in or out. There
is much discussion about these topic in the items below.
Three of the basic guidelines in both cases above are to ensure that the:
•forestay is really tight. Remove any sagging by tightening the back stay(s)
•upper swivel is fairly close to the mast head sheave
•genoa halyard is really tight. When hoisting it initially, make sure that it is surged hard
18

If none of these remedies is successful, then you may need to fit a halyard diverter to improve
the angle between the halyard and the mast. One supplier of these devices is Plastimo, whose
608 kit can be found on many 23s Plastimo (page 21). There are less common causes, which
are the subject of forum items below.
Techniques
Advice on tuning your rigging, flying a cruising 'chute etc can be found below, particularly in the
Reference ibrary items. One general piece of advice that can be confidently given is that it is far
better to reef early, than when you are being over-pressed by the wind. This gives you a more
comfortable and safe ride, and the boat will probably be faster.
Repair, Modifications etc
Reference Library
Colnebrook Reefing Gear
Jib Sheets Without a Shackle
Overhaul Plastimo Gear
Sail Maintenance
Single ine Reefing
Trim the Headsail
Trim the Mainsail
Tuning the Rigging
Using a Cruising 'Chute
Forum Items
All About azyjacks
Colnebrook Gear Problems
Cruising Chute Choice
Furling the Genoa
Genoa Pole ength
Genoa Reefing Jamming
Halyard Dimensions
Halyard Wrap
New Mainsail
New Mainsail
Plastimo Gear Jamming
Reefing Points - How Many
Roller Reefing the Main
Slab Reefing - Setting Up
Storm Jib
19

Issue 5
April 2012
Section 8
Windows & Hatc es
Original Arrangements
Windows: 23SL
The windows on this model are different from those on the
23. The material is 10mm Perspex, and the bevelled-edged
windows are affixed to the cabin sides by countersunk
stainless steel screws. The screws do not penetrate into the
cabin because the sides are double skinned, as shown in the
second picture (with the window trim removed). Between
the window and the cabin side, there is a strip of self-
adhesive neoprene which provides the primary seal between window and cabin side. eaks are
the usual problem, and as can be seen in the photo, sealant has been
applied round the edge of the window. Another slight weakness is that the
countersunk screws tend to act as wedges, and over tightening these in
an attempt to stop leaks can cause the Perspex to split. Over time, the
windows suffer from UV crazing, and there is little that can be done about
this except to replace them. There is information later in this Section
about replacing windows.
Windows: L23
The two pictures (right) well illustrate the different
window arrangements in the 23. The inner skin has
moulded-in recesses around the window apertures,
which bring the two skins into contact, though not a
bonded contact. This enables the windows to be
through-bolted. On the exterior there is an alloy trim
with a thin silicone sealing to the cabin side.
Internally a wood trim surrounds the window, with
the 'nut' of the nut and bolt. This fixing is an inter-
screw with, unlike the picture, a countersunk screw, where the 'nut'
is a blind screw, with the shank threaded on the inside. When
refitting the screws into the aluminium frame, the hole should be
covered with a thin layer of silicone to avoid contact corrosion and
leaks. The main problems with this form of construction are leaks,
which can cause the interior wooden surrounds to rot. The only solution is to fabricate new trims.
The old trims should be removed carefully to serve as templates for the new ones.
Hatches: 23SL
There are two hatches, excluding the anchor locker lid, the main and the forehatch. The main
hatch is a double-sided moulding, which slides on two troughs in the garage roof and is retained
in place by two teak mouldings. It is easily removed for cleaning or repair:
•Remove the few pan headed screws securing the garage top to the deck and lift it away.
•Remove the countersunk screws securing the two teak mouldings each side of the hatch
and carefully prise away – there should be sealant at least around the screw holes.
•ift the hatch away.
•
Replacement hatches are available from OA suppliers, Hurst Marine
The fore hatch is also a double-sided moulding, which is secured to the deck by two ‘rubber’
hinges. Many of these hinges have deteriorated with time, and now show severe cracking.
The OA has sourced replacement items, which are available from Hurst Marine, together with
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