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  9. Liberty XL Instructions for use

Liberty XL Instructions for use

Page 1of 15
Liberty XL Construction Guide
Specifications:
-Wing span –36”
-Length –36 ”
-Weight –14 Oz (with battery).
-Center of gravity is 2-1/2”from front edge of upper wing, at the root or center.
-Motor: (40 to 50 grams) 2826/32 –1050KV (10x6DD prop)
-or 2826/26 –1270KV (9X5DD prop)
-Battery: 800 mah to 1300 mah 11.1 V
-Speed Control: 20 Amp.
-9 gram servos, 2 for ailerons and 1 for elevator.
-5 gram servos, 1 for rudder.
Additional Items needed to complete kit:
-Glue –Foam-Tac, Hot melt glue, and CA, (super glue)
-Velcro
-Servos
-Motor
-Prop saver
-electric prop
-ESC
-Battery
-Paint (if unpainted kit is purchased)
Page 2of 15
Liberty XL kit contents:
- 6mm EPP Pcs
- 9mm EPP Pcs
- Plywood accessory pcs
- Dubro micro EZ links 2 pcs
- 10 Wire Z bends
- 2 Wire L bends
- Shrink wrap
- Fiberglass drywall tape
- Carbon fiber spars, control rods, and
trussing
Carbon fiber should be precut to these lengths.
Small flat carbon spars
-16.750" x 4 (trailing edge of each aileron)
3mm tube (spars)
-7” x 2 (fuse)
-6” x 5 (foam struts, rudder, and servo support)
-14.5” x 1 (elevator)
-25.25” x 2 (fuse)
-33” x 2 (wings)
1.5mm rod
-20.25" (elevator control rod)
-22.5" (rudder control rod)
-4” x 2 (aileron control rod)
-5.25" x 2 (vertical control rods between ailerons)
-13.875" x 4 (wing trussing)
-5" x 2 (tail trussing)
-5.5" x 2 (tail trussing)
Start the build by gluing the 3mm carbon
tube spars into the grooves provided on
the foam. Foam-Tac works best.
Page 3of 15
Cut 4, three inch long strips of fiberglass
drywall tape.
Stick the tape on the inside of the fuse as
shown and spread Foam-tac over the tape
with a scrap of EPP foam. After glue has
dried, cut off and tape that is hanging over
the edge.
Glue the 5” long 3mm servo support spars
above the bottom servo holes as shown.
(Note, that there is no groove in the foam,
the spar lays on top of the foam).
Page 4of 15
Cut out the scrap foam pieces to open the
tail and tab holes, also make a cut to
separate the top and bottom tabs in the
tail.
Use a liberal amount of Foam-tac to glue
the plywood motor mount to foam
bulkhead as shown.
Use the tabs and slots provided to locate
and glue the two bulkheads in place as
shown. Also glue one of the 25.250” spars
into the corner as shown. (The spar is
longer than the fuse bulkhead and will get
glued to the horizontal stab later).
Page 5of 15
Glue the bottom and the other half of the
fuse in place using the slots and tabs
provided, lay weights on it until the glue
dries.
Now glue the second 25.250” spar into the
corner of the fuse as shown.
A third small support bulkhead is now
glued in the fuse using the tab and slot
provided.
Page 6of 15
Glue the 4 flat carbon spars to the trailing
edge of the ailerons.
The plywood pieces can now be painted
and holes enlarged with a 1/32 (.031) drill.
I recommend using the middle hole on the
rudder and elevator horn, and the top
hole on the aileron horns.
Glue plywood horns into the slots
provided on the elevator and rudder.
Page 7of 15
Glue the long aileron horns to the TOP of
the lower wing.
Glue the short aileron horns to the TOP of
the upper wing.
The top and tail edge of the fuse needs to
be glued together with either Foam-Tac or
hot melt glue. Use clamps or pins to hold
foam together until glue dries.
The nose cover should be pre curved on a
pencil before gluing in place.
Page 8of 15
Glue the nose cover in place as shown.
Use Foam-tac to glue battery Velcro to
inside of fuse as shown. (Note, the
adhesive on the Velcro is not good enough
by its self to hold it in place).
Glue Velcro to inside bottom of fuse as
shown to hold your receiver.
Page 9of 15
Solder battery and bullet connectors onto
ESC and motor wires.
Check to make sure motor is spinning the
right direction. Switch any two motor
wires to change the direction.
Glue Velcro to bottom of main fuse
bulkhead as shown. This will later be used
to hold ESC in place.
Glue windshield in place with Foam-tac or
hot glue.
Page 10 of 15
Glue horizontal stab into the slot in fuse,
and glue rudder to the vertical stab.
Make sure rudder and horizontal stab are
centered, straight and square to the fuse.
WAIT with trussing until AFTER control
rods are attached.
The wire control pieces can be easly
attached to the carbon rods with Foam-tac
glue and shrink wrap.
The glue is flammable, so use a heat gun
or hair dryer on the shrink wrap.
The glue and shrink wrap can also be
reheated to move and adjust the wire.
Don’t forget to add the control rod
supports before gluing on the Z bends.
To install the rudder control rod.
Glue the 5 gram servo in place with the
control arm centered straight UP.
Attach the control rod to the plywood
horn. (middle hole recommended).
Lengthen or shorten the control rod by
reheating the glue and shrink wrap if
needed. Once the control rod and wire is
the right length, the arm can be screwed
to the servo. Note: do not heat the shrink
wrap near the foam, it will melt!
Page 11 of 15
To install the elevator control rod.
Glue a 9 gram servo in place with the
control arm centered straight UP.
Attach the control rod to the plywood
horn. (bottom hole recommended).
Then follow the same steps as the rudder
control rod.
Use the tabs, slots, and glue to attach the
lower wing to the fuse.
To install the aileron control rods.
Glue the 9 gram servos in place with the
control arm centered straight DOWN.
Attach the control rod to the plywood
horn. (TOP hole recommended).
Lengthen or shorten the control rod by
reheating the glue and shrink wrap if
needed.
Once the control rod and wire is the right
length, the arm can be screwed to the
servo. Note: do not heat the shrink wrap
near the foam, it will melt!
Page 12 of 15
Sand the ends of the carbon trussing rods
to give the glue a better hold.
The upper wing, foam struts, and wing
trussing can now be now be glued in place
using the tabs and slots provided.
Align the wing trussing with the spars in
the wing as shown and glue in place. Make
sure fuse and struts are square to wing.
Also put a dab of glue where the trusses
criss cross each other.
Attach the vertical aileron control rods
using the wire Z bends on the bottom and
the wire L bends on the top. Reheat the
shrink wrap to shorten or lengthen the
control rods. Use the two plastic EZ links
to lock the wire L bends in place.
Page 13 of 15
Glue the lower tail trussing into the slots
provided.
Glue the upper tail trussing into the slots
provided. Make sure horizontal stab is
square to the fuse.
The motor, prop, and speed control can
now be attached to the plane. The servo
screws can be used to attach the motor to
the plywood. Push the battery connector
through the hole provided in the
bulkhead.
Page 14 of 15
The bottom of the nose can now be glued
in place. Trim off the bottom of the motor
bulkhead so that it is flush with the
bottom of the nose.
The receiver can be attached to the velcro
inside the fuse after plugging in the servo
wires and binding to the transmitter.
Move your battery forward or back inside
the fuse to get the right CG. The CG is at
the spar in the top wing, or 2-1/2” from
the leading edge of the upper wing at the
root or center of wing. After plugging the
battery in, the connector and wires can be
hidden by pushing them down through the
hole.
Page 15 of 15
For low rate and maiden flight, the control
surface throws for aileron and elevator
should be set at 1” both directions, with
about 30% EXPO.
As you get use to the plane, the throws
can be increased.
Always do a preflight check to make sure
control surfaces are moving in the correct
direction.
The build is complete.
Now go fly that Foamy!

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