Lightfoot Greenway User manual

RECEIVING YOUR CYCLE
RECEIVING YOUR CYCLERECEIVING YOUR CYCLE
RECEIVING YOUR CYCLE
Technical Manual 1- 1
Your vehicle has been assembled and tuned. The front wheel, seat and handlebars may have been
disassembled for more compact shipment. There are a few items to reassemble, bolts to be tightened and
adjustments to be made. Your front wheel and other accessories may be in the cargo box or cargo pod on
your trike. Your control cables have been pre-stretched; however it is normal for the control cables to
stretch during use a lot at first) and your shifters may need to be re-tuned after several miles of use.
If you use the Lightfoot Technical Manual to assemble and adjust your cycle, you will have learned in a few
hours the basics of what you need to know to keep it running efficiently and safely for a lifetime. This
chapter is designed to get you through reassembly so you can ride. The Lightfoot Tech manual is available
online at http://www.lightfootcycles.com/tech_man.php.
Lightfoot vehicles are all designed to be accessible to any qualified bicycle mechanic. As you put miles and
wear on the cycle, any bike shop should be able to troubleshoot and repair any mysterious behavior of
components or damage. Proper assembly, maintenance and adjustments will make your cycle safer and
more efficient to ride, and will avoid the potential frustration of trying to learn to ride on an improperly
assembled cycle. If in doubt as to your own ability to properly assemble this vehicle or some component of
If in doubt as to your own ability to properly assemble this vehicle or some component of If in doubt as to your own ability to properly assemble this vehicle or some component of
If in doubt as to your own ability to properly assemble this vehicle or some component of
it, please use a qualified bicycle mechanic.
it, please use a qualified bicycle mechanic. it, please use a qualified bicycle mechanic.
it, please use a qualified bicycle mechanic.
If damage has occurred during shipping, notify the shipping company imm
If damage has occurred during shipping, notify the shipping company immIf damage has occurred during shipping, notify the shipping company imm
If damage has occurred during shipping, notify the shipping company immediately. Then, if anything appears
ediately. Then, if anything appears ediately. Then, if anything appears
ediately. Then, if anything appears
to be missing or damaged on a factory
to be missing or damaged on a factoryto be missing or damaged on a factory
to be missing or damaged on a factory-
--
-direct shipment, please call or e
direct shipment, please call or edirect shipment, please call or e
direct shipment, please call or e-
--
-mail us.
mail us. mail us.
mail us. If at all possible photo
If at all possible photo If at all possible photo
If at all possible photo
document the damage.
document the damage.document the damage.
document the damage.
For future reference: All Lightfoot cycles have a serial number stamped on the frame. On bicycles, the serial
number is stamped on the left rear dropout. On trikes, it is stamped near the top of the upper separation
plate between the front and rear frame. The serial number may be difficult to read under the
powdercoating, but it is there.
TO
TOTO
TOOLS NEEDED
OLS NEEDEDOLS NEEDED
OLS NEEDED
To adjust an assembled vehicle, you may need only a couple of tools. Bike shops will have all of these
tools. Also, you can buy these tools by the individual piece, or as part of a "home bicycle mechanic" set.
Certain vehicles or options may necessitate other tools. We recommend getting a portable bicyclist tool kit
you will have most of the tools from the list above) for carrying with your vehicle as well as a home-
mechanic set for more extensive repairs.
1. Pliers to pull staples and cut wire ties.
2. Knife or scissors to cut tape.
3. Reversible hand held drill with a Phillips head driver bit for removing fork stabilizer.
4. Metric Allen wrench set. Specifically: an 8mm crank arms), 6mm shorty stem), 5mm adjustable
stem and accessories), 4mm seat and braces) and a 2.5 mm Grip shifters). A 3mm wrench has
been supplied with your mirror. A Philips head screw driver is needed for some of the fender bolts.
5. 15mm pedal or open end box wrench for pedals on Bikes.
6. Grease for coating threads on pedals and freewheels, lubricating unsealed bearings, lubricating the
steerer tube. Phil Wood waterproof grease is one good choice. White Lightning is a good coating
for chains and cables.
7. Internal hub systems may require a wrench or small vise grip pliers, as well as a medium size flat
screwdriver.
8. A tire pump may be needed.
UNPACKING
UNPACKING UNPACKING
UNPACKING A B
A BA B
A BIKE IN A CARTON
IKE IN A CARTONIKE IN A CARTON
IKE IN A CARTON:
::
:

Technical Manual 1- 2
1. Lift the front end of the cycle and install the fork. The head set pieces are on the stem in the order
they go on the bike: bearings go round side into the cups on the head tube.
2. Install the stem and handlebars. Slide the stem on above the headset, place the steering stem cap
on and tighten down tight enough so there is no slop in the headset but not so much that the
steering is too tight or that when you turn the handlebars it feels ”crunchy”.
3. Remove frame from box and place it in a bike stand if you have one or on a carpet. Remove
dropout protectors and unwrap the frame.
4. Install the rear derailleur: position the derailleur over 10mm hole on rear dropout, Rotate it
clockwise so that the spring tension screw will clear the stop on the dropout as you tighten the
derailleur in place with a 5mm hex wrench. Allow tension screw to settle against stop before
tightening.
5. Install rear wheel: Insert the skewer into the wheel with the lever on the side opposite the brake
rotor right side). Slide the wheel axle between the chains and allow the upper chain to rest on the
smallest sprocket. Position between dropouts and work into place as gently as possible so as not to
damage the rotor or brake pads. Make sure the wheel is pushed into the dropouts solidly and
tighten.
6. Install front wheel: install skewer into hub with tightening lever on the side opposite the brake rotor
right side of wheel). Position between dropouts and work into place as gently as possible so as not
to damage the rotor or brake pads. Make sure the wheel is pushed into the dropouts solidly and
tighten.
7. Install pedals: There is either an L or an R on each pedal. The right pedal is reverse threaded.
8. Install the seat. Adjust to fit. Your leg should be just less than fully extended when the pedal is in the
most forward part of its stroke. Do not over tighten the clamp holding the seat to the frame, this
will deform the clamp.
9. Sit on the cycle and adjust the handlebars to fit you. Align the handlebars, stem and fork. Tighten all
bolts.
10. Unpack all optional components and be sure that there are none tucked away in packing materials.
11. Refer to the Lightfoot Technical Manual for further installation and maintenance instructions.
UNPACKING A
UNPACKING A UNPACKING A
UNPACKING A TRIKE
TRIKETRIKE
TRIKE IN
IN IN
IN A
A A
A CARTON
CARTONCARTON
CARTON:
::
:
1. Remove staples, wire ties and strapping from the outside of the carton. Tip the carton and lay it
down on the side with the shipping label. This is the bottom of the trike. Remove the screws
holding the fork in place on the top of the carton.
2. Lift/pull the top of the box off the base.
3. Remove staples/screws holding the cycle in place.
4. Lift/pull and roll the cycle CAREFULLY out of box. There is some stretch wrap on the rear wheels
and the brakes may be on, so pull slowly and let the wheels slide
5. Remove packing being careful not to scratch the paint or cut cables and housing.
6. Follow #6 above.
UNCRATING A CYCLE IN
UNCRATING A CYCLE INUNCRATING A CYCLE IN
UNCRATING A CYCLE IN A WOODEN CRATE
A WOODEN CRATEA WOODEN CRATE
A WOODEN CRATE THIS IS RARE)
THIS IS RARE)THIS IS RARE)
THIS IS RARE)
1. Position the crate with the arrows up.
2. Remove the lid piece using a reversible drill with a Phillips screwdriver bit by removing the screws
around the sides near the top.
3. Your cycle may be held in place by its fork. Generally, the easiest way to free it is to unscrew the
screws holding the wood block to the crate, then remove the block from the cycle after it is out of
the crate.
4. The handlebars and front wheel s) have been removed from your cycle in order to make it more
compact for shipping. In place of the handlebar stem we have placed a spacer to hold the fork stem

Technical Manual 1- 3
and bearings in position. Remove the black cap and spacer before installing the handlebar stem.
Tighten the cap as directed in the initial assembly pamphlet.
For trikes and four wheelers:
For trikes and four wheelers: For trikes and four wheelers:
For trikes and four wheelers: You may lift the cycle out of the crate or remove all the screws around the
sides of the crate at the rear and at the bottom of the rear panel. Remove the panel at the rear end of the
trike. This removes the corner braces of the crate so the cycle can be rolled out. Remove ties, internal
bracing and all packed components. Be careful in cutting cords or tape that you do not scratch the paint or
cut cables and housing.
Make sure the parking brake pin on the brake lever is released.
Cycle can now be lifted up in the front end and rolled out of the crate. Continue with #6 in section above.
For bikes:
For bikes:For bikes:
For bikes: Begin to remove the ties that hold the components and bike in position. Lift the bike out of the
crate.
Install the front fork, wheel s), seat, handlebars and pedals.
Align handlebars and stem with the front wheel. Adjust to fit.
Refer to the Lightfoot Technical Manual for further installation and maintenance instructions.
FOR BOXED UNASSEMBLED TRIKES ONLY:
FOR BOXED UNASSEMBLED TRIKES ONLY: FOR BOXED UNASSEMBLED TRIKES ONLY:
FOR BOXED UNASSEMBLED TRIKES ONLY:
1. Bolt the frame together using 8mm frame bolts provided.
2. Lift the front end and install the fork; Follow #1 above
3. Install rear wheels: Insert the skewer into the wheel with the lever on the side opposite the brake
rotor. Slide the wheel axle between the chains and allow the upper chain to rest on the smallest
sprocket. Position between dropouts and work into place as gently as possible so as not to damage
the rotor or brake pads. Make sure the wheel is pushed into the dropouts solidly and tighten. Check
wheel alignment and reposition if needed.
4. Install front wheel: Follow #6 above.
5. Pedals: Follow directions from “Install pedals” above
Check your
Check your Check your
Check your cycle
cyclecycle
cycle every
everyevery
every time you ride for brake function and secure wheels. Watch for loose fasteners.
time you ride for brake function and secure wheels. Watch for loose fasteners. time you ride for brake function and secure wheels. Watch for loose fasteners.
time you ride for brake function and secure wheels. Watch for loose fasteners.
Clean the frame regularly and check for cracks.
Clean the frame regularly and check for cracks. Clean the frame regularly and check for cracks.
Clean the frame regularly and check for cracks. Keep bare metal lubricated.
Keep bare metal lubricated.Keep bare metal lubricated.
Keep bare metal lubricated.
Enjoy your Lightfoot!
Enjoy your Lightfoot!Enjoy your Lightfoot!
Enjoy your Lightfoot!
R
RR
Remember
emember emember
emember four
fourfour
four secrets of first riding a recumbent:
secrets of first riding a recumbent:secrets of first riding a recumbent:
secrets of first riding a recumbent:
1. Start with a power stroke
1. Start with a power stroke1. Start with a power stroke
1. Start with a power stroke
2. Lean back into the seat
2. Lean back into the seat2. Lean back into the seat
2. Lean back into the seat
3. Relax your arms when you ride!
3. Relax your arms when you ride!3. Relax your arms when you ride!
3. Relax your arms when you ride!
4. Look where you
4. Look where you 4. Look where you
4. Look where you W
WW
WANT to go!
ANT to go!ANT to go!
ANT to go!

Technical Manual 2-1
INITIAL ASSEMBLY
Modular frames should be bolted together firmly, as
soon as possible. Do not fully tighten any bolts until
all bolts are inserted and the nuts are on finger
tight. Be careful not to put weight on the frame
until all bolts are in and fully tightened; a partially
bolted frame can be easily damaged. Our frames
are fabricated with the frame sections bolted
together and WILL go back together; however, the
frame may need to be gently "tweaked" a bit to line
up the holes.
In order to put the vehicle on its wheels, you may need to install the front forks. The sequence
of cups, bearings, races and seals is illustrated in Figure 2. 2. The headset cups will normally be
already installed (pressed in) on most vehicles, and the bottom-most race (the "crown race")
will be pressed on the fork (may not be on framesets).
Figure 2.2 Headset, stem, head tube and fork assembly. From Right to left: Cap bolt, headset cap, stem,
upper cover, shim washer seal, compression ring, upper cartridge bearing, (cups are in the space between
the 2 bearings) lower cartridge bearing, lower bearing race/dust seal, and fork.
From the right; steering stem cap with bolt, stem, upper cover, shim washer seal, compression
ring, upper cartridge bearing , upper cup, head tube, lower cup, lower bearing, bearing
race/dust seal, crown of fork. The bearings we now use are sealed and only need a light coat
of grease to keep them from rusting.
Figures 2.3 and 2.4 show the installation. Slide the stem on above the headset upper cover,
place the steering stem cap on and using a 5mm hex key, tighten down enough so there is no
slop in the headset but not so much that the steering is stiff or that when you turn the
handlebars it feels ”crunchy”or tight. Sit on your cycle and align the handlebars, stem and front
wheel. Use a 5 mm hex key to tighten the two bolts holding the stem on.
Figure 2.1. Headset cup placement

Technical Manual 2-2
Figure 2.5. Tiller Steering setup
Figure 2.3 Above. Installation of fork into head set.
Figure 2.4 At right. Installing the stem.
INSTALLING HANDLEBARS AND STEM
Standard tiller steering includes a stem, either telescoping or
fixed-length. If telescoping, make sure that at least 2” are
inserted at maximum extension.
If your vehicle is a bike or trike with the 12” hi-rise bars", set
them in the stem so that the handle grip section just barely
reaches back and down. Trikes and four-wheelers with
"swept" bars actually may have a curve to the bar; set these
also so they reach back and down.
If a brace for the hi-rise bars is included with your model,
install it just below the curve of the handgrip area.
After the handlebar stem is put on the steerer tube (that
turns the fork), use a 5mm hex key to adjust the bolt
through the Star Fangled nut in the top of the head tube, to provide free movement of the fork
without sloppiness. The Star Fangled nut is set inside the steerer tube with a special tool. The
cap and bolt assembly thread into the Star Fangled nut and push down on the handlebar stem
and the headset bearings, thus creating the pressure that holds the headset together. Tighten

Technical Manual 2-3
Figure 2.6. Installing the rear wheel
Figure 2.5a. Swept handlerbar and stem riser
the handlebar stem bolts that grip the steerer tube only after the headset is adjusted and
handlebars aligned.
Put three- or four-wheel vehicles on their
wheels as soon as feasible to avoid
damage to the components on the
underside of the vehicle. If you are
working on a two-wheeler, use a
mechanics stand or work on carpet to
avoid scraping the powdercoat finish.
We may have dropped your handlebars
on the stem riser so that we could pull
the stem riser out of the frame for
shipping. Please raise the handlebars back
up to the top of your stem riser when
you make your final fitting adjustments.
PARKING BRAKE
Most Lightfoot trikes have a dual pull
brake lever with a locking pin (see figure
2.5a). Some may also have an elastic band Parking Brake that holds the brake lever in the “on”
position. Activate it by squeezing either the front or rear brake lever and slipping the elastic
over the brake lever. The band stores on the grip when not in use. Use it when you are
loading your trike or parking it on uneven ground.
INSTALLING WHEELS
Some wheel axles may be quite tight in their fit into the "dropouts" (the slot that holds the
wheel axle) because of the very stiff nature of our frames, it may be difficult to get the axle
between the dropouts if the
fit is tight.
The disc brake rotor must be
aligned with the brake caliper
on the left side of the wheel.
There is a manual for
maintenance and operation of
your brakes in your owner’s
packet. Please familiarize
yourself with their operation.
While holding the derailleur
down and out of the way as
shown, position the wheel
into the base of the dropout,
then, as gently as possible,
work the axle up into the

Technical Manual 2-4
dropout, and the rotor (“disc”) into the brake caliper, without damaging the rotor or brake
pads. DO NOT handle brake rotors with bare hands; they are very sharp!
Wheels need to be centered before the quick-release lever is tightened. Usually the weight of
the bike on the ground will center the wheels between the frame forks. If we have pre-
assembled the bike, the brake rotor will be centered between the brake pads when the wheel
is correctly aligned.
Some axles (narrower than our standard 135 mm length) come with spacers (flat washers) on
them; these go to the inside of the dropout to fill gaps between the axle nut and the dropout.
Knurled washers (if any, often found on internal hubs) go to the outside, under the axle nut;
these help grip and hold the axle in the dropout.
Internally geared rear hubs that do not have derailleurs should have the chain installed over the
sprockets and then be slid up the dropouts until the chain is drawn tight. All wheels should be
"eye-balled" or measured to make sure they are straight before final tightening. It is possible to
bend the axle if the wheel is not relatively straight or if the cycle is ridden with only one side
tightened. Make sure axle nuts are tight.
Wheels with internal hubs will have
“alignment washers”. Make sure the right-
angle flange of the alignment washer is
positioned in the dropout slot; tightening
the flange against the dropout could bend
the washer or even the axle.
Most Lightfoot models are equipped with
disc brakes. Use Gloves when handling
brake rotor discs. Slide the wheels into
place being careful to place the rotor
between the brake pads.
NEVER PUT HANDS NEAR
BRAKES OR ROTORS WHEN
WHEEL IS TURNING!
To remove or install a wheel with V-brakes ("linear-pull" brakes); squeeze the end of the V-
brake arms together, and release the curved aluminum tube which holds the brake cable from
its slot. This allows the brakes to spring open and make room for the tire.
Wheels with the Nexus internal hub and roller-cam brake are more complicated to install;
please follow the instruction under "Internal Hub" below for attaching cables. Once the
internally-geared hub’s shifter cable is attached and the axle is in the dropout, the roller-cam
brake’s arm will be bolted to a clip attached to the frame. The rear "brake cable-stop" slides
into a slot on the brake "actuator arm"--the one dangling from the hub. The barrel adjuster
slides into a slot on the brake arm once it is bolted to the frame. The barrel adjuster and the
actuator arm are held in position by the tension of the "brake actuator return spring".
Figure 2.7. Releasing the brake cable on “V” brakes

Technical Manual 2-5
Figure 2.9. Installing the crankset
A word about maintenance: The hubs we use are not “sealed” but are “semi-sealed”. They
come well lubed. The bottom bracket does not come apart; it is maintenance free. IF the
threads start to "creak", back them out and grease them. They were well greased here. The
hubs will need some maintenance. We suggest twice a year lubing them.
THE BOTTOM BRACKET, CRANKSET AND
PEDALS
The bottom bracket bearing set may be already installed,
but may not be on framesets. If not, a special bike tool
is required to tighten it within the threaded "bottom
bracket shell".
The crankset is held on the bottom bracket spindle with
the included crankset bolts. Most cranksets are held on
with socket-head bolt, tightened with an 8mm Allen
wrench. Some types use a hex head bolt and a socket
wrench is needed. These bolts should be slightly
greased.
Wipe off any grease where the crank spindle slides into the crank arm--no more than a thin film
of grease is needed to keep the cranks from seizing onto the spindle. The crank with the
attached sprockets goes on the right side.
Pedals can be installed after the crank arms are on, so that the vehicle holds the arms--this
makes installing the pedals a bit easier. The left pedal is reverse-threaded. An open-end pedal
wrench is essential if you are going to remove and install the pedals frequently. Do not simply
hand tighten the pedals, as they may work loose and ruin the crank arm.
Maintenance: The bottom bracket does not come apart, it is maintenance free. If you begin to
feel a clunk or gritty spot, a bearing has gone out and it is time to replace the unit.
Figure 2.8. Bottom bracket wrench
Figure 2.10. Crank arm puller

Technical Manual 2-6
INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT
OF THE SEAT
Installation: Slide the two top pockets of the
seat cover over the top posts on the seat
frame. Slide the pocket of the seat bottom
over the seat horn. Buckle the large strap
around the seat supports and under the seat
fabric. Pull quite tight. You don’t want the
seat to bottom out on the frame.
Buckle the back straps starting at the top.
The top three straps should be tightened as
tight as they will go. The next two straps
should be tightened incrementally looser so
that the bottom strap follows the curve of the seat back. This allows for lumbar support and
can be adjusted to suit your needs. See more on this below.
Place the pad on the seat using the velcro to hold it in place.
Place the seat on the square rail and adjust it for the rider. Screw the quick release bolt into
the clamp while the lever is open until it snugs down when closed.
For Bikes: Attach the seat braces to the seat brace slotted tab on the rear frame of the bike.
Place the seat brace to the outside of the tab with the nylon washer between the slotted tab
and the seat brace. Tighten the nut
and bolt so that the seat brace does
not slip.
For Trikes: Attach the seat braces to
the seat brace slotted tab on the rear
frame of the bike. Place the seat
brace to the inside of the slotted tab
with the nylon washer between the
slotted tab and the seat brace.
Tighten the nut and bolt so that the
seat brace does not slip.
Figure 2.12. Seat clamp on Greenway
and RoadRunner trike
Adjustment: Adjust the seat braces so that the seat bottom supports are roughly parallel to
the ground. IF the seat is tipped too far forward, the horn will not be effective and the rider
will feel that she is falling out of the seat. Riding in a more recumbent position may require
shortening the horn.
When sliding the seat, push or pull as much as possible in the center so the tabs won’t bind.
Figure 2.11. Mesh seat

Technical Manual 2-7
Release ALL 4 quick release bolts and/or pinch barrel bolts during adjustment, even if
adjusting only one part of the seat.
For Greenways and RoadRunners: The lower quick release bolt on the seat clamp should have
a small wing nut on the chain side ( as shown in figure 2.12) and spacers to “shorten” the bolt
on the left side of the trike. IF it doesn’t, in some positions, the nut will interfere with the
cassette.
To adjust the contours of the mesh Performance seat, adjust the tension of the straps on the
back of the seat and under the seat bottom. Most people will want the straps behind the small
of the back (the lumbar region) to be tighter for more support, while the straps at the very
bottom of the back will remain quite loose. The seat horn can be adjusted in two ways; reduce
the contour that the horn creates by tightening the large strap under the seat, and increase the
horn contour by substituting a longer piece of 5/8” dowel and/or loosening the large strap.
The rear edge of the seat pad cover has a Velcro closing that can be opened to allow the
removal, modification or replacement of the seat pad.
All the nylon straps as well as the mesh itself will stretch a little during break-in. Readjust the
straps as needed to keep the seat comfortable for you.
FENDERS (FROM CHAPTER 6 OF TECH MANUAL)
Front Fenders All of our front fenders require that
the left stay have a 30 degree bend 3” behind the
fork mount loop to clear the brake caliper. On 20”
front fenders, we trim the backside so it will not scrape
going over curbs and bumps. The front fenders have single
stays instead of double stays.
INSTALLATION
1. Bolt the fender top tab to the FRONT of the fork using
6mm x 2” bolt, lock washer and nut. Center the fender
over tire and tighten.
2. The left fender stay needs a 30 degree bend 3 inches
behind the attachment loop to clear the front brake caliper.
We usually do that for you. If you have to bend it, just make sure the bend is in line with the
flat plane of the loop.
3. Attach stays to the 5mm threaded mounts in fork using 5 mm bolt and washer.
4. Adjust stays to center fender over the wheel by loosening the stay nuts and sliding the stays
while centering the fender.
5. Tighten all nuts. Trim the ends of the stays with bolt cutters or hacksaw if you choose. File
off sharp edges and replace end cap. A dab of finger nail polish or glue will hold them on well.
Rear Fenders on Bikes Set up fender hardware as directed in instructions with this exception:
the front mount on the rear fender should be installed by bolting from the inside of the fender
Figure 6.7. Fender stay
adjustment

Technical Manual 2-8
to the fender mount on the frame. Use two or more 1/4“ nuts as spacers between fender and
frame if needed.
Rear Fenders on Trikes 1.Place the fender on
the rear wheel. Open the Stays to approximate
width needed for mounting. 3. Bolt the stays to
the frame loosely. 4. Position the front of the
fender to the front of the outrigger above brake.
Use 5mm screws with flat and lock washers
from the inside of the fender to attach to fender
mount. 6. Adjust and tighten bolts and screws all
around when sure of fit. 6. After Stays are
adjusted, they may be cut off with bolt cutters,
filed and have caps placed on their ends—be
careful of the sharp cut ends.
Figure 6.8. Jackshaft, fender and brake setup

Technical Manual 3-1
Figure 3-1. Rim Strip
WHEELS AND TRANSMISS
WHEELS AND TRANSMISSWHEELS AND TRANSMISS
WHEELS AND TRANSMISSIONS
IONSIONS
IONS
MOUNTING TIRES ON WH
MOUNTING TIRES ON WHMOUNTING TIRES ON WH
MOUNTING TIRES ON WHEELS
EELSEELS
EELS
Install a rim strip or rim tape; this protects the tube from punctures cause by the tips of the
spokes an the spoke nipples. Align the hole in the rim strip for the valve stem with the hole in
the wheel rim.
Some tires have a certain rotating irection marke on their si ewall. Generally, any V in the trea
pattern shoul open towar the rear of the irection of tire travel. On our trikes, we often
mount the right rear wheel with the cassette mount on the insi e, but it oesn’t really matter.
Mount one si e of the tire on the rim, an then push the
inner tube into the partially mounte tire. Make sure
the tube is not fol e or twiste . After the valve stem is
situate , use the tire levers to force the secon si e of
the tire onto the wheel rim. Take care not to pinch the
inner tube as you go. Some tires may prove to be very
tight an ifficult to lever onto the rim; warming an thus
softening the tires--as well as lubricating with soapy
water--may help get them on.
Before inflating, rotate the tire an tube aroun the rim
as nee e until the valve stem sticks straight out of its
hole. Inflate slightly an , before inflating further, check to
make sure that the tire is seate evenly on the rim.
Finally, inflate the tire to its highest recommen e pressure.
Some of our vehicles utilize high pressure (80 to 110 psi) tires for lower rolling resistance on
pavement. Many tire mo els on the market are rate for a maximum of 45 to 60 psi. Sometimes
people choose to inflate these me ium-pressure
tires over the rate pressure so that they roll
more easily. Be aware that over-inflation is not
recommen e by the tire manufacturer.
If the tire still oes not want to seat correctly,
then eflate to 15 or 20 PSI. Squirt some Win ex
or ish soap on the trouble spot making sure to
work it in below the bea . Then re-inflate the tire
to esire PSI. The lubrication shoul help the
tire to seat itself.
For safety reasons, insert the quick release axle
into the wheel so that the quick release han le is
on the si e opposite the isc brake if at all possible.
Figure 3-2. Tire Assembly

Technical Manual 3-2
TRANSMISSIONS
TRANSMISSIONSTRANSMISSIONS
TRANSMISSIONS
Our stan ar transmission for a single-seat three- or four-wheeler is illustrate
below. The pe als are attache to a triple-sprocket crankset, which creates rotation (by means of
a chain) of an 8-spee gear cluster on a jackshaft (thus turning the jackshaft). A single sprocket on
the outer en of the jackshaft then creates rotation (by chain) of the 8-spee gear on the left rear
wheel--the rive wheel.
Two-wheel rive is a custom option, wherein the jackshaft is exten e to the right to rive the
right rear wheel as well.
Trike Compoun Gears
Trike Compoun GearsTrike Compoun Gears
Trike Compoun Gears
When all three gear clusters are in low, the resulting gearing is very
"low", "slow" or "powerful". This means that one revolution of the
pe als will pro uce only a small forwar motion of the vehicle.
The force require to turn the pe als in low gear is very little; thus
pe aling is easy.
When all three gear clusters are in high, the resulting gearing is very
"fast" or "high". One revolution of the pe als will pro uce a lot of
forwar motion. Unless the vehicle is alrea y moving fast, the
effort require to turn the cranks will be very great. The very
highest gears are use only at high spee s on ownhills, with the
help of gravity.
The term "Gear Inches" is shorthan for escribing the "size" of
gear you are in. Being in a "90 gear-inch" gear is like pe aling an
1890's high-wheeler with a 90" iameter wheel an fixe pe als; a
single turn of the cranks an you go a long way forwar . This is
calle a "tall" or "high" gear. Being in a "10-inch gear" is like
pe aling a little ki 's trike with 10" iameter wheel (a "low" gear);
you on't make much forwar progress for each turn of the cranks, though pe aling is relatively
easy. Being in a 26 gear-inch gear on a mountain bike with 26" iameter wheels means that for
each turn of the pe als, the rive wheel goes aroun exactly once. In a 52" gear, the rive wheel
goes aroun exactly twice for each revolution of the cranks.
As normally set up; the left han shifts the front triple sprocket by means of a twist-grip shifter.
The right han shifts the mi le 8-spee cluster, also using a twist-grip shifter. A thir shifter (a
thumb lever) is use to shift the rear 8-spee cluster. The rear cluster is shifte only occasionally,
an is normally left in a position to give an appropriately low gear for the con itions in which you
are ri ing.
Contrary to some assumptions; single-wheel- rive on a trike (as Lightfoot Cycles uses it) with
appropriate tires almost always provi es plenty of traction, even in snowy or gravelly con itions.
Single-wheel- rive also oes not create any ifficulties with tracking (traveling straight ahea ) on a
properly lai -out long-wheelbase esign, espite the fact that only one si e of the vehicle has
power. Electric assist an two-wheel- rive options create two ifferent forms of very positive
ual-wheel traction.
Figure 3-3 Top view of
gears on a trike.

Technical Manual 3-4
recommen hairspray or any solvents that might amage the gel grip. You may have to trim the
grips; they may be a bit too long to fit on some han lebars with certain components.
Stan ar placement of the shifters connects the left grip shifter to the front triple chainring. The
right grip shift controls the rear erailleur on bikes, or the mi -frame erailleur on trikes an
qua racycles. On trikes an qua racycles, the thumb shifter controls the rear erailleur.
If an internal hub gearing system is use , then the right grip shift will control the internal hub in the
rear rive wheel, an the thumb shifter will control the mi -frame erailleur. This allows the most
commonly shifte gears (the internal gear hub) to be those most easily shifte , an leaves the
rarely-shifte “ranges” to be controlle by the more awkwar thumb shifter.
The erailleur shifte by the thumb shifter is generally shifte only infrequently an is use to set a
"range" of operation such as low range, me ium or high range.
ROUTING THE CABLES
ROUTING THE CABLESROUTING THE CABLES
ROUTING THE CABLES
Try to keep the length of the cable housing as short as possible, however; o not make tight ben s
in the housing. Zip ties can be use to tie loose sections of cable to the frame.
The cable "sa le" is use to activate both rear brakes as shown in Figure 3.5. Place it about 3
inches in front of the mi -frame cable sa les. Before installing it, place a patch of frame protector
in the spot it will sit. This will protect the frame from scratching an noise.
Figure 3.6. Trike shift cable arrangement

Technical Manual 3-7
Front erailleur a justment is not an exact science. It requires a goo eye an a bit of patience to
get it right. When you apply power to the pe als, the power is transmitte to the rear sprockets
by the upper run of the chain. The lower run of the chain is just the return path, an the only
tension on the lower run is that applie by the spring in the rear erailleur. Since the front
erailleur oes its shifting with the upper, power-transmitting, section of chain, it has a har er task
to perform. In general, you shoul not expect a front erailleur to shift well while you are pe aling
har , even if the rear erailleur oes so.
The Three Front
The Three Front The Three Front
The Three Front Derailleur
DerailleurDerailleur
Derailleur A justments
A justmentsA justments
A justments
Clamp Position
The most critical a justment of a front erailleur is its attachment to the bicycle frame. This must
be set correctly before you attempt to a just the limit stops. There are two variables, angle an
height. The front erailleur comes with a small piece of plastic hol ing it into the exten e (high-
gear) position. A small piece of clear plastic stuck to the si e shows where the teeth of the
sprockets shoul meet the shifter when in high gear; this tells how high to mount the erailleur. As
you tighten the clamp, watch to make sure the erailleur cage remains parallel with the sprockets.
Remove the plastic spacer after the erailleur is firmly clampe to the frame.
Angle of the front erailleur is ju ge by looking own on the cage from above. Mo ern front
erailleurs have very subtly shape cages, so it is not always easy to tell when the i eal a justment
has been ma e. In general, the centerline of the cage shoul be parallel to the centerline of the
frame. Rotating the erailleur so that the back of the cage is farther out will sometimes improve
shifting to the small ring of a triple by preventing overshifting, but may cause increase nee for
trimming on the larger rings. It may also cause the crank to strike the cage.
Rotating the erailleur so that the front of the cage is farther out will help re uce the nee for
trimming on the large chainwheel, an will provi e crisper ownshifting, but with a greater
ten ency to overshift on the insi e. This may be appropriate on bicycles equippe with an anti-
erailment evice.
Height of the front erailleur is a principal factor in how well it will shift. Manufacturers commonly
recommen 2mm clearance between the bottom of the outer cage plate an the teeth of the
large chainwheel. This is a bit of an oversimplification. Best performance will result from the very
lowest position that still just barely keeps the cage from hitting the chainwheel teeth.
The lower you can get it, the better it will shift, an the less you will nee to trim the front
erailleur.
Derailleur Chain wheel Mismatch
Derailleur Chain wheel MismatchDerailleur Chain wheel Mismatch
Derailleur Chain wheel Mismatch
To get the front erailleur as low as possible, the curvature of the outer cage plate has to match
the curvature of the largest chainwheel.
If you use a larger chainring than the erailleur was esigne for, the rear of the cage will hit the
teeth of the big chainring before the front of the cage gets low enough to provi e crisp shifting
without the nee for trimming.
If you use a smaller chainring than the erailleur was esigne for, it will shift OK, but you'll have to
o a fair amount of trimming, ue to the rear of the cage being higher than it shoul be, so that
the chain crosses through it farther back.
Lately I've starte mo ifying front erailleurs for improve shifting with larger rings. I have an RSX
on a bike with 50/38/28 Biopace (the sweep of a 50 Biopace is comparable to that of a 52 roun .)
The RSX front erailleur works great on its inten e 46/36/26 setup, but the cage oesn't match
the curve of the larger chainring. In a couple of minutes with a grin ing wheel, I remove a goo
bit of metal from the bottom rear of the outer cage plate, an a bit from the bri ge section where

Technical Manual 3-8
the inner an outer cage plates connect at the back. This ma e the erailleur match the curvature
of the larger chainwheel, an allowe me to set it low enough to provi e goo chain control. This
setup now works fine with an STI rig that oesn't permit "trimming" the front erailleur.
Low-gear limit stop.
The low-gear limit stop stops the erailleur from shifting past the smallest chainwheel an throwing
the chain onto the bottom bracket shell. If it is too loose, the chain will fall off when you try to
ownshift to the small chainwheel. If it is too tight, you it will be ifficult or impossible to shift
own to the low chainweel.
On ol er front erailleurs, the low-gear stop is the one closer to the frame. Many newer esigns
reverse this position for reasons relating to the mechanism use .
The basic a justment for the low-gear stop is to set it so that the chain just barely clears the inner
plate of the cage when the lowest gear (small front, large rear) is selecte . This will usually be the
best position for ouble-chainwheel setups, an will permit the use of most or all of the rear
sprockets with a minimum of trimming.
For triple chainweels, it will sometimes be necessary to a just the low-gear stop a bit looser, so
that the outer plate of the erailleur can travel far enough to knock the chain off of the mi le ring.
Anti- erailment evices
In some instances, you may fin that one a justment of the low-gear stop causes the chain to
erail past the small chainring, but a tighter setting results in slow ownshifting to the small ring.
In such cases, a goo , if inelegant, solution is sometimes to install an anti- erailment evice that
clamps to the seat tube. These pro ucts, such as the 3r Eye Chain Watcher ® an the N-Gear
Jump Stop ® set up a barrier preventing the chain from overshooting the small ring, no matter
how loose the low-gear stop is set. This allows the low-gear stop to be set to allow the erailleur
to move farther inboar for faster, more precise shifting, even un er some loa . These evices can
often save the ay when extra-wi e range gearing is use on a mountain bike or tan em.
High-gear limit stop
The high-gear limit stop is pretty straightforwar . It shoul be set so that the chain almost rubs on
the outsi e plate of the front erailer cage when the bicycle is in its highest gear (large front/small
rear). This will re uce the nee for trimming as you shift the rear erailer.
If the shift to the large chainwheel is slow, make sure that you aren't pe aling too har , front
upshifting requires being rea y to have the cranks slow own when the shift takes place. If the shift
is unreliable even when you are pe aling lightly, you may be able to improve it by loosening the
high-gear stop a bit. If you o so, check to make sure that the erailer cage is not moving so far
out that it can be struck by the crank as it goes by.
Sometimes front upshifting may be improve by reben ing the front e ge of the inner cage plate
outwar a bit. This may be one with an a justable wrench. This is rarely necessary on mo ern
front erailers, but use to be a very common trick on ol er, cru er esigns.
Front Derailleur Trimming
Front Derailleur TrimmingFront Derailleur Trimming
Front Derailleur Trimming
As you shift the rear erailleur one way or another, the irection from which the chain runs from
back to front changes a bit. As a result, sometimes it is necessary to "trim" the a justment of the
front shifter after changing gears with the rear, even if you are staying on the same front chainring.

Technical Manual 3-9
Trimming means using the shifter to move the front erailleur cage si eways just a little bit, enough
to stop the chain from rubbing, but not enough to make it shift to a ifferent chainring.
Ol er front erailleurs esigne for friction shifters use to require trimming as a matter of course,
but newer in exe systems can often be set up so that no trimming is necessary.
For a "trimless" front in exing, you will usually nee to be using the particular chainwheel sizes for
which the front erailleur was esigne , an the chainwheels must not be bent even a little bit.
The lower own the cage is mounte , the less trimming will be nee e .
If your system requires trimming, it is essential that you o it. If you ri e with the chain rubbing
against the front erailleur cage, you will wear a groove in the si e of the cage an it will never shift
properly.
A justing
A justingA justing
A justing erailleur systems
erailleur systemserailleur systems
erailleur systems is most easily one with the rive wheel elevate into the air so it can
turn freely. Make the initial "rough" a justment without the chain installe . Fine-tune an test with
withwith
with
the chain in place.
Rough A justment: Start by letting the spring-loa e erailleur relax to its highest position (lowest
position if it is the front erailleur). The shifter cable shoul be either isconnecte or the shift
lever at the han lebars shoul be in the position in which it is taking up the least amount of cable.
(Note: the shift lever shoul be complementary to the erailleur in mo el or type.)
Then screw in or out the little "high/low limiting screw" that restricts the movement of the
erailleur in an out; this establishes how far the erailleur can move, so that it oes not shift the
chain entirely off the sprocket cluster. There are two of these, usually marke with an H for high
(small sprocket) an an L for low (large sprocket). Move the screw until the erailleur jockey
wheels line up with the outermost cassette sprocket. Manually, push the erailleur to its other
extreme an a just the other limiting screw until the erailleur lines up with that sprocket or chain
ring (front). The instructions that come with your front erailleur give metric settings for making
this a justment. Return the erailleurs to their relaxe position. Above smallest chainring an
sprocket.
Now, Install the chain an connect the cables. Make sure that the housing (the tube in which the
cable is house ) is sockete into the mechanism or cable stops at each en by stretching the cable
un er the mi frame after everything is connecte . Disconnect, take up the slack an reconnect.
When the shift lever is now rotate (while pe aling), the erailleur shoul shift the chain from one
sprocket to the next. When the erailleur reaches the farthest sprocket, re-a just the “low” limiter
screw to permit the chain enough movement to shift onto the sprocket, but not so much that it
goes off the far si e.
If the system is an in ex system (as most LFC vehicles are), fine-a justment to exactly position the
rear erailleur for accurate shifts is generally ma e with a "barrel-a juster" bolt, either where the
cable enters the erailleur or where the cable exits the shift lever. If your chain hesitates to shift
up (to the smaller sprocket), twist the barrel a juster inwar , thus taking some of the tension off of
the cable. If the chain oes not shift own (to the larger sprocket), twist the barrel a juster
outwar , a ing tension to the cable so that it pulls the erailleur further over towar the larger
sprocket.