Lithium Grim Sultan of Tone Instruction Manual

Sultan of Tone
Building instructions
V4.1

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Table of contents
Components ............................................................................................................................................ 3
Bill of Materials ....................................................................................................................................... 4
PCB layout ............................................................................................................................................... 5
Power section.......................................................................................................................................... 6
Building sequence ................................................................................................................................... 7
Modifications........................................................................................................................................... 8
Off board wiring and drilling ................................................................................................................... 9
Diode switch settings ............................................................................................................................ 10
Troubleshooting .................................................................................................................................... 11
Schematic .............................................................................................................................................. 12
Read this entire manual thoroughly before you start to building the effect! Especially the
Modification and Power section part. Decide before building the effect which mods you want to try
so that you do not need to desolder parts later.
Last update: 28-09-2017

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Components
All Components must be rated 25V+
Name
Value
Comment
Name
Value
Comment
C1
10n
SMF
R1
1M
C2
100p
Ceramic/SML
R2
1M
C3
10n
SMF
R3
27k
C4
10n
SMF
R4
33k
C5
100n
SMF
R5
10k
C6
10n
SMF
R6
10k
C7
10n
SMF
R7
220k
C8
1u
Electrolyte
R8
6k8
C9
1u
SMF
R9
1k
C11
100u
Electrolyte
R10
6k8
C12
10n
SMF
R11
1M
C13
100p
Ceramic/SML
R12
1M
C14
10n
SMF
R13
1M
C15
10n
SMF
R14
27k
C16
100n
SMF
R15
33k
C17
10n
SMF
R16
10k
C18
10n
SMF
R17
10k
C19
1u
Electrolyte
R18
220k
C20
1u
SMF
R19
6k8
C22
10u
R20
1k
C23
100u
Electrolyte
R21
6k8
C24
10u
Electrolyte
R22
1M
C25
100n
MKT
R23
47k
R24
47k
R led1
3k3
For Red LED
Led Orange
3mm
R led2
3k3
For Orange LED
Led Red
3mm
D1
MA856
Or MA858
P1
B100k
Gain Red Channel
D2
MA856
Or MA858
P2
B25k
Tone Red Channel
D3
MA856
Or MA858
P3
A100k
Volume Red Channel
D4
MA856
Or MA858
P4
B100k
Gain Orange Channel
D5
1S1588
P5
B25k
Tone Orange Channel
D6
1S1588
P6
A100k
Volume Orange Channel
D7
1N4001
VR1
B50k
Treble boost Orange Channel
D8
1S1588
VR2
B50k
Treble Boost Red Channel
D9
1S1588
D10
MA856
Or MA858
DIP1
2 position dip switch
D11
MA856
Or MA858
DIP2
2 position dip switch
D12
MA856
Or MA858
D13
MA856
Or MA858
IC1
JRC4580D
D14
1N5817
IC2
JRC4580D
D15
1N5817
IC3
LT1054/ICL7660s
A=Log, B=Lin, C=Rev. Log

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Bill of Materials
Capacitors
Value
Amount
Type
Rating
10n
10
SMF
25V or higher
100n
2
SMF
25V or higher
100n
1
MKT
25V or higher
1u
2
SMF
25V or higher
100p
2
Ceramic Multi Layer
25V or higher
1u
2
Electrolyte
25V or higher
10u
2
Electrolyte
25V or higher
100u
2
Electrolyte
25V or higher
Diodes
Value
Amount
Type
1N5817
2
1N4001
1
1S1588
4
MA856
8
LED
1
Red 3mm
LED
1
Orange 3mm
IC
Value
Amount
Type
LT1054 or ICL7660s
1
See power section!
JRC4580D
2
Resistors
Value
Amount
Type
1k
2
metalfilm 1%
3k3
2
metalfilm 1%
6k8
4
metalfilm 1%
10k
4
metalfilm 1%
27k
2
metalfilm 1%
33k
2
metalfilm 1%
47k
2
metalfilm 1%
220k
2
metalfilm 1%
1M
6
metalfilm 1%
A100K
2
16 mm alpha pot
B100k
2
16 mm alpha pot
B25K
2
16 mm alpha pot
B50k
2
6 mm trimpot
Switches
Value
Amount
Type
DIP2
2
2 position DIP switch

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PCB layout

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Power section
This board has a built-in charge pump which can feed the board with 18V. This can be made into a
switchable option! If you look at the 3 power pins (marked 9V/Vout/18V), you can use a 3 pin male
header and a shunt to choose between the two voltage (9V/18V). If you short the left 2 pins you will
feed the effect with 9V. If you short the right 2 pins, you will feed the board with 18V. Be careful not
to connect all 3 pins at the same time! This will short the power section with all dramatic
consequences. Of course you can use a SPDT switch instead of a 3 pin male header to make the
power option externally switchable.
IC3 is the heart of the charge pump. You can use a LT1054 or a ICL7660s.
oLT1054: Do not connect pads X and Y.
oICL7660s: Short pads X and Y with a spare piece of lead wire.
Note: Take special care building the power section. If the IC (LT1054/ICL7660s) heats up then check
the polarity of the capacitors (C22,23 and 24) and check that the power selection pins do not short all
3 together.
If you do not want the 18V option and stick to the standard 9V option, then skip D14, D15, C22, C24,
C25 and IC3. You will also need to short the 9V and Vout pads on the power pins (as depicted in the
left image above)

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Building sequence
Soldering this board can be very complicated for some people since the solder pads are very close
together. Use a magnifying glass to make the job easier. If you want to experiment with other diodes
than you could socket them instead of soldering them to the board. You’ll need a 20 SIL, break off
the sockets and solder them to the board.
This board gives you the option to separate both channels with their own input and output. If you do
not want that and keep the stock option then solder the output of channel A to the input of channel
B:
Start by soldering the small resistors and then the diodes. All diodes need to be soldered in an
upright position except for D7, D14 and D15. Again, If you want to socket the diodes then skip them
till you start soldering the sockets.
Note: Diodes are fragile!! Do not expose them to heat for too long or they’ll break. Do not blow on
your solder in an attempt to cool it down. That will possibly result in a bad join that might corrode!
Solder the small ceramic capacitator C2 and C13 next.
Solder the 10n and 100n SMF/MKT capacitors. Next, solder the IC sockets (and diode sockets), then
the DIP switches (only if you do not intend to use the external diode mod on page 9 else leave out
the dipswitches!) and lastly solder the 1u SMF and electrolyte capacitors.
NB.It might be best that you solder the big electrolytes on the bottom side of the PCB instead of the
top side. This will save you a lot of space. Measure first, then solder!!!
Finally solder the presence/treble boost trim pots VR1and VR2. If you want to control the presence
externally then do not solder VR1and VR2but use B50k Alpha 16mm pots. For your convenience I
marked the pinning on the PCB. The pots default setting is all the way to the right. To boost treble,
turn the pots to the left.
Place the IC (and diodes) and you are almost ready to rock.

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Besides the components mentioned in the bill of materials, you will need:
•2 input jacks. 2 mono jacks if you are not going to use a battery but only the 9V adapter. 1
mono (for output) and 1 stereo jack (for input) if you will be using both a 9V battery and the
9V adapter.
•2 x 3PDT footswitch (9 pins).
•2,1mm DC jack (isolated).
•9v battery clip (optional). I advise not to use it as there is very little space left in the
enclosure.
•22 gage stranded hook-up wire.
•Hammond 1590BB case (or similar) in your favorite color. A Hammond 1590DD or
Hammond 1590XX will give you more room to build especially when using an external
presence pot.
Modifications
•You can experiment with different diodes for D1-D6 and D8-D13. MA856/MA858 and 1S1588
are very hard to find and there are a lot of fakes sold from China. An alternative for MA856 is
BA282. For 1S1588 there are 1n4148, 1n914, but also think outside the box with 1N4001,
BAT41, BAT46, LED’s etc. If you want to experiment then socket the diodes!
Watch out with using Germanium diodes. The volume drop might be too big.
•Replacing C1, C6, C12 and C167 with 22nF instead of 10nF will give you some more low end
grunt.
•You can also choose to do 1 side MA856 and the other 1S1588. For instance make D1-D6 all
1S1588 and D8-D13 all MA856.
•For the High Gain mod just switch out the B100k P1 (and/or P5) for a B250k.
•You can also try different OpAmps like TL072, CA3240E, OPA2134, AD712, NE5532, JRC4558
etc.

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Off board wiring and drilling
This version of the Sultan of Tone has integrated 3PDT print. This will save you time for off board
wiring, but It will require you to drill more precise!
Before you start you must drill the 2 footswitch holes in your enclosure. Heart to heart distance of
the footswitch holes is 76,65 mm. When using a Hammond 1590BB I suggest you drill a 13mm hole
at 75,5mm from the top and 17,7 mm from the left of the enclosure. The other 13mm hole should
be at 75,5mm from the top and 94,3 mm from the left of the enclosure.
Now put the 3PDT footswitches in the enclosure and tighten them secure. Place the PCB on the
footswitches and solder them. Remove the footswitches (and thus the PCB) and drill the holes for the
pots and switches. The rest of the pots and LEDs can be put anywhere you want, just remember that
you probably soldered the electrolyte caps on the bottom side so measure before drilling!
S
Input Jack
Tip
Sleeve
Ring
Tip
Sleeve
Cathode (short leg)
Anode (long leg)
Orange
Cathode (short leg)
Anode (long leg)
Red
Output Jack
Soldering the potentiometers on P1-P6 is quite simple. The square pad marks pin 1 of the
potentiometer. You can break the pin off the potentiometer circled in the bottom left picture.
3 2 1

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Diode switch settings
Instead of using the dipswitches, you can make either 4 external SPDT switches for or 2 DP3T
switches. If you choose 4 separate switches, it will look something like this:
A/B/C/D
Switches A, B, C, D can all be connected the same way as shown in the picture above. All ways of
connecting both wires to the switch are valid as long as you do not connect it to both outer lugs.
The switch settings are independent of using DIP or separate switches and are as follows:
Channel
Red
Orange
Switch
A
B
C
D
Clean
OFF
OFF
OFF
OFF
OD
ON
OFF
ON
OFF
Distortion
X
ON
X
ON
X = setting is irrelevant, either ON or OFF
So If you want an OD Red channel and a distortion Orange channel then it is:
A:ON B: OFF C: X D:ON
You can also use a DP3T switch per channel to select OD (Up)/Clean (Middle)/Distortion (Down). You
will need an ON/OFF/ON switch for that and wire it like this:
A
B
C
D
Red Channel Orange Channel

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Troubleshooting
All PCB’s have been 100% factory e-tested and out of every batch I receive I build a effect to double
check, so there should not be a connection problem on the PCB itself.
The board is not working (at all), what now?
•Check if your 9V is plugged in correctly (and/or soldered correctly on the board).
•Check that you oriented the capacitors, IC’s ,transistors and diodes the right way. SMF, MKT
capacitors and resistors do not need to be oriented.
•Check if you used the correct values of the components. For resistors you can look here:
http://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Electronics/Color/
•Double and triple check your soldering! A loose or cold solder can be really bad for your
board. Also check if switch enclosures do not short connections as most switches have a
metal enclosure.
•Replace the IC’s and transistors, one might be defective. Before doing that first unplug the 9V
and wait 5 seconds.
•Check that you have good/high grade components. A lot of Chinese sourced parts are fakes
(especially high end opamps, vintage diodes and transistors) so be careful that you source
your parts from reliable suppliers.

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Schematic