Lithium Grim Sultan of Tone Instruction Manual

Sultan of Tone
Building instructions
V3.0.3

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Table of contents
Components ............................................................................................................................................ 3
Bill of Materials ....................................................................................................................................... 4
PCB layout ............................................................................................................................................... 5
Building sequence ................................................................................................................................... 6
Modifications........................................................................................................................................... 7
Off board wiring and drilling ................................................................................................................... 7
Diode switch settings .............................................................................................................................. 9
Troubleshooting .................................................................................................................................... 10
Schematic .............................................................................................................................................. 11
Read this entire manual thoroughly before you start to building the effect! Especially the
Modification part. Decide before building the effect which mods you want to try so that you do not
need to desolder parts later.
Last update: 09-04-2017

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Components
Name
Value
Comment
Name
Value
Comment
C1
10n
SMF
R1
1M
C2
100p
Ceramic/SML
R2
1M
C3
10n
SMF
R3
27k
C4
10n
SMF
R4
33k
C5
100n
SMF
R5
10k
C6
10n
SMF
R6
10k
C7
10n
SMF
R7
220k
C8
1u
Electrolyte 35V
R8
6k8
C9
1u
SMF
R9
1k
C10
100u
Electrolyte
R10
6k8
C11
100u
Electrolyte
R11
1M
C12
10n
SMF
R12
1M
C13
100p
Ceramic/SML
R13
1M
C14
10n
SMF
R14
27k
C15
10n
SMF
R15
33k
C16
100n
SMF
R16
10k
C17
10n
SMF
R17
10k
C18
10n
SMF
R18
220k
C19
1u
Electrolyte 35V
R19
6k8
C20
1u
SMF
R20
1k
IC1
JRC4580D
R21
6k8
IC2
JRC4580D
R22
1M
L Green
Orange!!
3mm
R23
47k
L Red
Red
3mm
R24
47k
D1
MA856
R led
3k3
For Red LED
D2
MA856
R led
3k3
For Orange LED
D3
MA856
VR1
B100k
Gain Red Channel
D4
MA856
VR2
B25k
Tone Red Channel
D5
1S1588
VR3
A100k
Volume Red Channel
D6
1S1588
VR4
B50k
Treble boost Red Channel
D7
1N5817
VR5
B100k
Gain Orange Channel
D8
1S1588
VR6
B25k
Tone Orange Channel
D9
1S1588
VR7
A100k
Volume boost Orange Channel
D10
MA856
VR8
B50k
Treble boost Orange Channel
D11
MA856
DIP1
2 position dip switch
D12
MA856
DIP2
2 position dip switch
D13
MA856

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Bill of Materials
Capacitors
Value
Amount
Type
Rating
10n
10
SMF
35V or higher
100n
2
SMF
35V or higher
1u
2
SMF
35V or higher
100p
2
Ceramic Multi Layer
35V or higher
1u
2
Electrolyte
35V or higher
100u
2
Electrolyte
35V or higher
Diodes
Value
Amount
Type
1N5817
1
1S1588
4
MA856
8
LED
1
Red 3mm
LED
1
Orange 3mm
IC
Value
Amount
Type
JRC4580D
2
Resistors
Value
Amount
Type
1k
2
metalfilm 1%
3k3
2
metalfilm 1%
6k8
4
metalfilm 1%
10k
4
metalfilm 1%
27k
2
metalfilm 1%
33k
2
metalfilm 1%
47k
2
metalfilm 1%
220k
2
metalfilm 1%
1M
6
metalfilm 1%
A100K
2
16 mm alpha pot
B100k
2
16 mm alpha pot
B25K
2
16 mm alpha pot
B50k
2
6 mm trimpot
Switches
Value
Amount
Type
DIP2
2
2 position DIP switch

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PCB layout
NB. There are some mistakes made in the channel and LED descriptions on the PCB. Green channel
on the PCB should be Red channel, Red Channel on the PCB should be Orange channel. Led Green
should be Led Orange. This does not affect the functioning of the board in any way, just read the
instructions carefully!!

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General guideline for components
Capacitors: All values under 1nF should be ceramic disks or silver mica. From 1nF up to 1uF
should be SMF (Panasonic stacked metal film) or MKT (Metallized plastic polyester) and
values over 1uF use electrolyte caps 16V+ rated and watch out for polarity! I rated them at
35V+ in case you plan on using a charge pump. All components should then be rated 35V or
more.
Resistors: use 1% metal film for the best results.
Socket the IC’s. This way you can easily mod them or replace them if they break.
Building sequence
Soldering this board can be very complicated for some people since the solder pads are very close
together. Use a magnifying glass to make the job easier. If you want to experiment with other diodes
than you could socket them instead of soldering them to the board. You’ll need a 20 SIL, break off
the sockets and solder them to the board.
Start by soldering the resistors (but not yet VR7 and VR8) and then the diodes. All diodes need to be
soldered in an upright position except for D7. Again, If you want to socket the diodes then skip them
till you start soldering the sockets.
Note: Diodes are fragile!! Do not expose them to heat for too long or they’ll break. Do not blow on
your solder in an attempt to cool it down. That will possibly result in a bad join that might corrode!
Solder the small ceramic capacitator C2 and C13 next.
Solder the 10n and 100n SMF/MKT capacitors. Next, solder the IC sockets (and diode sockest), then
the DIP switches (only if you do not intend to use the external diode mod on page 9 else leave out
the dipswitches!) and lastly solder the 1u SMF and electrolyte capacitors.
NB.It is best that you solder the electrolytes on the bottom side of the pcb instead of the top side.
This will save you a lot of space.
Finally solder the presence/treble boost trim pot VR4 and VR8. If you want to control the presence
externally than do not solder VR4 and VR8 but use a B50k pots. For your convenience I marked the
pinning on the PCB. The pots default setting is all the way to the right. To boost treble, turn the pots
to the left.
Place the IC (and diodes) and you are almost ready to rock.

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Besides the components mentioned in the table on the page 3, you will need:
2 input jacks. 2 mono jacks if you are not going to use a battery but only the 9V adapter. 1
mono (for output) and 1 stereo jack (for input) if you will be using both a 9V battery and the
9V adapter.
2 x 3PDT footswitch (9 pins).
2,1mm DC jack (isolated).
9v battery clip (optional).
22 gage stranded hook-up wire.
2 x LED (Red and Green or Red and Orange).
Hammond 1590BB case (or similar) in your favorite color. A Hammond 1590DD or
Hammond 1590XX will give you more room to build especially when using an external
presence pot.
Modifications
You can experiment with different diodes for D1-D6 and D8-D13. MA856 and 1S1588 are
very hard to find and there are a lot of fakes sold from China. An alternative for MA856 is
BA282. For 1S1588 there are 1n4148, 1n914, but also think outside the box with 1N4001,
BAT41, BAT46, LED’s etc. If you want to experiment then socket the diodes!
Watch out with using Germanium diodes. The volume drop might be too big.
You can also choose to do 1 side MA856 and the other 1S1588. For instance make D1-D6 all
1S1588 and D8-D13 all MA856.
For the High Gain mod just switch out the B100k VR1 (and/or VR5) for a B250k.
You can also try different OpAmps like TL072, OPA2134, AD712, NE5532, JRC4558 etc.
Off board wiring and drilling
This version of the Sultan of Tone has integrated 3PDT print. This will save you time for off board
wiring, but It will require you to drill more precise!
Before you start you must drill the 2 footswitch holes in your enclosure. Heart to heart distance of
the footswitch holes is 76,65 mm. When using a Hammond 1590BB I suggest you drill a 13mm hole
at 75,5mm from the top and 17,7 mm from the left of the enclosure. The other 13mm hole should
be at 75,5mm from the top and 94,3 mm from the left of the enclosure.
Now put the 3PDT footswitches in the enclosure and tighten them secure. Place the PCB on the
footswitches and solder them. Remove the footswitches (and thus the PCB) and drill the holes for the
pots and switches. The rest of the pots and LEDs can be put anywhere you want, just remember that
you probably soldered the electrolyte caps on the bottom side so measure before drilling!

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S
Input Jack
Tip
Sleeve
Ring
Tip
Sleeve
Cathode (short leg)
Anode (long leg)
Orange
Cathode (short leg)
Anode (long leg)
Red
Output Jack
The wiring diagram is a copy of the latest original version. You should use a RED LED in the slots of
Led Red in the (R Led=3k3 for 9V/18V) and an ORANGE LED in the Led Green (R Led=3k3 for 9V/18V).
NOTE 1: The pads on the Led Green are reversed. Connect them exactly as mention in the above
picture!
Blue = pin 1
White = pin 2
Yellow = pin 3

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Diode switch settings
Instead of using the dipswitches, you can make either 4 external SPDT switches for or 2 DP3T
switches. If you choose 4 separate switches, it will look something like this:
A/B/C/D
Switches A, B, C, D can all be connected the same way as shown in the picture above. All ways of
connecting both wires to the switch are valid as long as you do not connect it to both outer lugs.
The switch settings are independent of using DIP or separate switches and are as follows:
Channel
Red
Orange
Dip Switch
A
B
C
D
Clean
OFF
OFF
OFF
OFF
OD
ON
OFF
ON
OFF
Distortion
X
ON
X
ON
X = setting is irrelevant, either ON or OFF
So If you want an OD Red channel and a distortion Orange channel then it is:
A:ON B: OFF C: X D:ON
You can also use a DP3T switch per channel to select OD (Up)/Clean (Middle)/Distortion (Down). You
will need an ON/OFF/ON switch for that and wire it like this:
A
B
C
D
Red Channel Orange Channel

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Troubleshooting
All PCB’s have been 100% factory e-tested and out of every batch I receive I build a effect to double
check, so there should not be a connection problem on the PCB itself.
The board is not working (at all), what now?
Check if your 9V is plugged in correctly (and/or soldered correctly on the board).
Check that you oriented the capacitors, IC’s ,transistors and diodes the right way. SMF, MKT
capacitors and resistors do not need to be oriented.
Check if you used the correct values of the components. For resistors you can look here:
http://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Electronics/Color/
Double and triple check your soldering! A loose or cold solder can be really bad for your
board.
Replace the IC’s and transistors, one might be defective. Before doing that first unplug the 9V
and wait 5 seconds.
Check that you have good/high grade components. A lot of Chinese sourced parts are fakes
(especially high end opamps, vintage diodes and transistors) so be careful that you source
your parts from reliable suppliers.

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Schematic