Lockley Newport Boats Newport 16 User manual

Disclaimer: This manual is a recreation of one I found on the internet. It has been recreated and *slightly*
modified wihtout permission.
ROUTE 623 P. O. BOX 307
GLOUCESTER, VIRGINIA 23061
[phone]
Newport 16
Rigging and Handling Instructions
LOA: 15’7"
LWL: 14’0"
Beam: 6’3"
Hull Weight: 900lbs
Ballast: 200lbs
Draft Keel Up: 9"
Draft Keel Down: 3’9"
THE NEWPORT 16
Now that you have your Newport 16, let’s
introduce you to the various parts and tell you
how to rig and sail her for your greatest safety and
enjoyment.
The basic parts of your Newport 16 consists of the
hull, mast and rigging, swing keel rudder, tiller,
boom, sheets, mainsail and jib
.
Your swing keel has already been installed at the
factory. This is controlled by a brake winch. Be sure
to keep fingers away from the winch. Particularly, be
careful not to let children handle this piece of
equipment.
STEPPING THE MAST
CAUTION: Before stepping the mast check for
overhead power lines.
The mast can be stepped either with the boat
afloat or on the trailer. To do this, first place the
mast on the boat with the foot of the mast located
on the cabin top and the top of the mast extended
out over the transom. Attach the side stays to the
small holes in the chainplates which are near the
aft end of the cabin. This attachment is made
using the stay adjusters located on the ends of the
stays. The first time you raise your mast, set the
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When sailing, your swing keel will normally be kept
in the fully lowered position. To retract the swing keel
for shallow water, turn the winch handle in the
direction which will result in the winch "clicking".
Turning the handle in the opposite direction will
lower the swing keel.
If it is ever necessary to completely remove the swing
keel from the boat, it must be removed through the
bottom of the hull. To do this, turn the boat on its side,
then pivot the keel into its fully down position. The
keel is pivoted around a boat in the upper forward
corner of the trunk. Remove the pivot bolt to remove
the keel and undo the shackle which attaches the
lifting pulley to the keel. The keel can also be
removed by lifting the boat up on a hoist, and
dropping the keel directly down. Support the hull,
using this method, to avoid the possibility of the boat
falling on anyone.
stay adjusters to be as loose as possible to be
certain the mast goes up easily. Next, make sure
the forestay is free and clear and that its
turnbuckle is attached to its lower end. Also check
the halyards to make are that both ends are
secured near the foot of the mast so that you can
reach them when the mast is up. Check all cotter
pins or rings to be certain they cannot slip out.
The first tine you raise your mast, you will have
to attach the inboard ends of the spreaders to the
fittings on the mast. This is a simple clevis pin -
cotter pin connection. (Spread the cotter pin).
Before raising the mast, remove the forward pin
from the mast step. Then engage the mast step
hinge to the mating part on the foot of the mast
itself. Once this connection is made and the side
stays are attached as explained in the previous
paragraph, you can walk to the back of the
cockpit, grab the mast and then, walking forward,
bring the mast to a vertical position. (If the boat is
on a trailer, be sure the bow is tied down and the
trailer tongue is prevented from tipping up before
you move to the stern.)
Once the mast is up, you must fasten the forestay to
the top hole in the bow chainplate using the
turnbuckle. Since the 16 mast is a deck stepped mast
and does not have any support other than the three
stays, it is important when you are attaching the
forestay (or if you are ever adjusting any of the stays)
to hold the mast firmly by hand so that it will not
topple over. Once your mast is up, we suggest
adjusting the various stay adjusters so that the mast
has a slight aft rake (tilt) and so that the stays are taut
with the mast leaning neither to starboard or port. The
rig can be tightened to achieve proper tension by
tightening the forestay turnbuckle. It is not
recommended that the rig be set up "drum tight"
however, merely sufficient tension to avoid the mast
slipping around is adequate.
LAUNCHING
Before launching the Newport 16, be sure the
swing keel is all the way up and the hull drain in
the transom tightly closed. If you are launching
from a ramp, leave a line on the bow to control
the movement of the boat and be careful as the
boat is launched to keep it centered on the trailer.
If you will be launching from a hoist or crane, we
suggest you obtain the 16 lifting sling. This is a
stainless steel bridle which connects to the large
holes in the side stay chainplates and, with a line,
to the eye straps an the transom.
With the boat in the water, fit the rudder and tiller.
The rudder is installed by merely slipping the
rudder pintles into the gudgeons in the transom.
Turn the rudder lock on the transom. so the rudder
cannot float up off the gudgeons. The tiller is then
slipped into the rudderhead and secured by a
cotter pin so the tiller cannot accidentally come
out of the rudderhead.
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CAUTION: When your mast is up, check before
moving the boat around, particularly when on its
trailer, to make certain there are no overhead
power lines or other wires which may come in
contact with the mast or rigging. Each year
fatalities occur due to electrocution caused by
masts and power lines making contact.
Before launching, drain any accumulated water from
the hull by using the drain plug in the transom, and
retighten this hull drain plug.
CAUTlON: Your boat is equipped with a lifting
rudder which pivots for sailing up to a beach
or in shallow water. It is important that the
blade be kept in the full down position during
all sailing, and that it be allowed to float up
only temporarily during launching or
beaching, grounding, or to slip weeds off the
blade.
During these operations, do not exert anymore
pressure on the tiller and rudder assembly than
absolutely necessary, since the load on the rudder
blade and casting increase tremendously when the
blade is allowed to trail aft instead of being kept all
the way down, and breakage could occur if this is
done.
Next, rig the boom by sliding the gooseneck into the
mast groove. Reeve the mainsheet by passing the
sheet through the mainsheet cleat on the thwart, then
up to the block (pully) in the middle of the boot, then
aft to the block on the end of the boom, then down to
the block on the seat across the cockpit to the opposite
block, then finally to the tang on the end of the boom
where you should make it fast with a bowline, a figure
8 knot or an overhand knot in the other end of the
mainsheet prevent the sheet from accidentally
unreaving.

If you have purchased the yang, this is attached to
the boom and by a tackle to the bail on the mast
near its foot. The yang is normally tightened
down according to the wind velocity. Use little
tension in light airs and greater tension when the
wind is stronger.
Next, attach the jib. The Jib tack is secured by a
tackle to the lower hole in the bow chainplate.
Then the sail snaps are out on the forestay. The
halyard is attached to the head of the sail by its
tackle and the jib sheet is attached to the clew
cringle by means of a ring hitch made at the
middle of the sheet. One half the jib sheet will
lead through the port fairlead on the cockpit
coaming. Tie over-hand knots or figure 8 knots in
each end of the sheet to keep them from pulling
through the fairlead accidentally. Before raising
the jib, glance aloft to make sure the halyard is not
fouled, and make certain the boat is heading more
or less into the wind.
To fit the mainsail, install battens into the batten
pockets. There are three battens in the 16
mainsail. The upper and lower battens are
approximately 20" and 24" long, the middle
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batten is 30" long. When the battens are inserted
into their pockets, an elastic in the inner end of the
pockets will hold the batten in place against the
roach of the sail.
Run the mainsail out along tile groove in the boom
and attach the corners of the sail to the boom. The
tack is attached to the gooseneck by a pin on the
gooseneck and the clew is attached by an outhaul line,
and secured to the cleat near the end of the boom.
Attach the outhaul line to the cringle in the corner of
the sail using a bowling, then pass the line through the
eye in the end of the boom and secure it to the cleat so
that the foot of the sail is just snug. Next, attach the
halyard shackle to the headboard of the mainsail and
insert the boltrope at the headboard into the mast
groove making sure the sail itself is not twisted.
Before hoisting the sail make sure the boat is heading
into the wind.
After examining the halyard to make sure it is not
fouled and releasing the mainsheet, boom yang (if you
have one) and downhaul, hoist the main to the top of
the mast by pulling on the halyard which runs through
the cleat at the bottom of the mast on the port side,
and cleat the main halyard using this cleat on the
mast. Hoist the jib in a similar manner and cleat the
jib halyard to the cleat on the starboard side of the
mast. You will find it convenient to store the halyard
tails by coiling them and stuffing them under the part
of the halyards just above the cleats on the mast.
The final operation in setting the mainsail is to secure
the downhaul line to the gooseneck and to cleat it with
moderate tension on the cleat mounted below the
gooseneck on the mast.
SAFETY
Newport 16 with its ballast and foam flotation is
about as safe as a boat of this type can be.
Nevertheless, proper seamanship and safety
precautions should always be followed to avoid
accidents.
Wearable life jackets should always be aboard and
should be worn whenever winds are brisk and
while single-handling the boat under ANY
conditions.
SAILING TIPS
You are now ready to sail your 16. You will find
the 16 has a great deal of stability.
Normal caution such as easing the traveler to
leeward and releasing the mainsheet in very
strong gusts should prevent capsizes in even the
strongest winds. If you find the wind so strong
that you seem to be overpowered, lower your jib
and sail the boat under the mailsail alone.
To avoid being knocked down when sailing in
strong winds, always hold the mainsheet in your
hand rather than cleating it so it can be eased
instantly in strong puffs.
To jibe (turn so that the stern passes through the
eye of the wind) in strong winds, make sure the
board is not down more than 1/3. Shift your
weight as the boom comes over and start and end
the jibs with your mainsheet out so that the boom
makes a 60º angle with the centerline of the hull.
Keep your crew weight aft and duck when the
boom flies over. Push the tiller firmly and
continue to turn the boat so that at the completion
of the jibe you are headed with the wind directly
across your beam. Practice jibing in light airs.
Avoid jibing in strong winds, but come about.
(turn with the bow into the wind) whenever
possible.
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You can further reduce sail area in very strong winds
by rolling a reef in your mainsail. To do this, remove
the sheet from the midboom mainsheet block then
slack off the main halyard about a foot. Pull aft on the
boom to disengage the lock on the gooseneck and
rotate the boom, thus rolling up the sail around the
boom like a window shade, When the sail has been
rolled enough to take up the slack along the luff of the
sail, let the boom move forward so it will lock itself.
To reduce the main still further, you can repeat the
operation. To sail with a roller reefed sail, trim the sail
directly from the end of the boom.
TRAILERING
When trailering your Newport 16, we strongly advise
easing the brake winch slightly so that the weight of
the swing keel is carried on the trailer rollers or bunks.
Otherwise the severe jolting loads and vibration which
can occur during travel, particularly over rough roads
could cause breakage of the wire or other arts of the
hoisting mechanism.
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