Luoman Lillevilla 80 User manual

Lillevilla 80
3900 mm x 5650 mm
Terrace 1500 mm
Wall thickness 45 mm
1
45 mm x 135 mm
3900 mm x 5650 mm
28,7 m²
3130 mm
1690 x 1820 mm
1190 x 870 mm
2100 mm
Lillevilla 80 300109
Wall boards
Dimensions of pedestal
Area of roof
Height of ridge
1 glazed double door width x height
3 glazed windows width x height
Height of walls
Guarantee number:
Important! Keep this.
Controlled by:

2
Dear summerhouse owner,
impossible to completely prevent some degree of warping, the
formation of resin and cracks, especially on the outside surfaces
and is not actually a defect in the quality
Note!
Incidentally:
We wish you every success and lots of fun with the construction of your log cabin . . .
Now you can get started...
Thank you for choosing a Luoman log cabin! Your cabin was manufactured with the greatest care
and expertise from good quality, well-dried, fine-grained spruce/pine at our modern plant in Finland.
The material we use is purely natural, and being solid wood is vigorous and active. Despite technical
drying methods it is, nonetheless,
The varying knot formations are
also typical of spruce/pine. These variations are all part of the beauty of wood.
Any rough edges and unevenness caused by the planer etc. on the back of the profiled planks and
floorboards is due to production techniques and
The timber we use (which is, of course, from sustainable forests) is absolutely untreated, except for the
Teknogrund treated parts. That means that the untreated wood will turn greyish over the years, something
which you might choose to avoid by applying a coat of stain(blue-stain inhibitor is recommended) or paint
–please, take notice of the recommendations of the varnish or paint manufacturer. It is not advisable to
paint the wall timbers before assembling them –this is best done when the cabin has been erected and the
weather is fine. However, if you wish to paint odd parts in different colours, this should be done before the
cabin is assembled.
Please check the content of the package before you start building your cabin and contact your dealer
if something is missing or can not be used for the purpose. Claims are not accepted after the product has
been assembled.
adequate ventilation and avoiding waterlogging are still the best ways
of protecting wood against rot.
.
.
®
PEFC/02-31-82
Please NOTE: Luoman Oy reserves all the rights to the photos, drawings, building instructions and other technical
information. Using or forwarding them to competitive purposes is forbidden and will be followed by legal
responsibility for the consequences.
Luoman Puutuote Oy has a Chain-of-Custody system, which is certified by DNV Certification Oy/Ab (www.dnv.com,
certificate 2149-2005-SMS-HEL-DNV). At www.luoman.fi we present the share of certified wood raw material in
your cabin. Our company is a holder of the PEFC logo license PEFC/02-31-82.
Lillevilla 80 300109
Dear Customer,
in a case of reclamation, please inform your dealer about the specific guarantee number of your
cabin. You can find this number on the package and on the front page of this instruction manual.
Unfortunately, without this guarantee number we cannot handle your reclamation!

3
1.
Front wall
15 log layers
15 log layers
Back wall
cut-out 35 mm
cut-out 75 mm
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1.
4
16 log layers
16 log layers
Side walls
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Foundations
1.
The key to stability, functionality and endurance is a good foundation for your summer house. Only
ensure a perfect fit for the timbers, the door and the window while
guaranteeing stability.
In the general drawing you will find the dimensions of your cabin to allow you to
prepare your footings - the 8+8 pedestal beams are laid crosswise; the 11 T1s, 1.50 m in length, are laid for the
veranda, the 2 T2s, 0.50 m in length, support the corner posts of the veranda's balustrade and the first
floorboard at the entrance. See showing how to place the foundation beams
for the cabin and the terrace.
absolutely level, strong footings
Flagstones or paving bricks on top of a (frost-free) bed of gravel are suitable, but frost-resisting
concrete (either over the whole area or in the form of piers) is also ideal as a base for the floor-joists (and
is also good for ventilation).
diagram 2 and detail drawing
Please read chapter 7 "Protection against gales" before preparing the
foundations.
Pre-sorting
2.
Pre-sorting - you don't need to worry about the number of parts when you open the package -
Please refer to for assistance. This shows all the parts belonging to the 4 walls and
gives you a guide to assembling the entire structure. The references on the drawing allow you to
according to their dimensions - all the parts are listed here
once more, together with their approximate measurements.
everything
becomes much easier once you have sorted the pieces into their appropriate categories!
diagram 1 and the part list
compare
them with the list of parts and allocate the parts
Important! Please check the content of the
packages with the part list and contact your dealer if something is missing or can not be used for the purpose.
5
2.
Nail the jointing boards J1
as shown in diagram
J1
J1
48x98
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Erecting the walls + door and windows
3.
Arrange all the parts for each wall on either side
diagram 2.
diagram 1+8
First lock the bottom wall planks (2 full-width wall boards A1 and B1 for the front and rear walls, and 2
half-width boards C1 and D1 for the side walls)
never bang the timbers
directly with the head of the mallet -
diagram 4
diagram 3
of the foundations, leaving 1-2 m working space.
Before you start assembling the walls, lay the 8+8 treated floor-joists (3.90+1,75m) crosswise and about the
same distance apart on top of the footings according to Nail the jointing boards to the floor-joists
as shown in the detail drawing. Even though the joists are treated it is a good idea to insert a layer of
bituminous felt or foil between the wall timbers and the joists to prevent rising dampness. Fix the floor-joists
to the foundations.
Please see for assembling the walls and the veranda.
A rubber mallet is of help everywhere in the assembly process. To avoid damage,
we have enclosed wooden blocks (marked with an "X") to be placed on
the planks for protection purposes - the ends of the timbers protruding at the corners require particular care, to
prevent the wood from splitting. However, if they happen to split or crack it has no negative constructional
effects and cracks can be glued later.
Clean the possible burrs caused by the drilling of the planks of the front and rear wall. That way the planks of
the walls will fit better in the grooves.
This "frame" shows the size of the cabin. At this stage it is important to make sure that the walls are exactly at
right angles to each other!
Screw or nail the first row of timbers to the pedestal beams at the corner joints (making sure to drill the holes
first). See . If you use screws, make sure that they will not lift the half-width boards off the
foundation beams.
Another point: the walls ought to
protrude 5-10 mm over the floor-
joists. This forms an overhang and
prevents waterlogging. Make
absolutely certain that there is an
adequate ledge on the inside to take
the floorboards. See .
Note: slot the floor-joist under the front and rear walls (for the threaded rods,
slots facing outwards).
that log has a cut-out for the door (see
drawing 1).
according to the picture 2b
together. Note A1
6
2b. Slotting the floor-joists for the threaded rods
15050
50
150
20
20
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Continue erecting the walls, one layer of planks at a time, according to until the 3rd or 4th timber
has been reached. At this point, the frame of the double door has to be put together, paying attention to right
angles (hinges on the outside) - the 4 strips of beading are fastened by tenon and mortice and are easily joined
together (drill screw-holes first). Now insert the assembled frame carefully in the wall opening provided,
without jamming it. The bottom of the doorsill should be absolutely level with the base.
The walls ase assembled up to the 7th front timber. Now continue with the shorter planks A2 predrilled/ A4,
C3/C5 and D3/D5 and 2 planks later carefully insert the ready-assembled windows in their frames.
Window and door frame should not be fixed to the wall planks.
diagram 1
Note!
The gable triangles and the purlins
Attention
Please make sure to install the window right side up. If installed upside down, the window will fall when
opened.
MAKE SURE that the roof overhang is supported by the planks C4, C6, C7 / D4, D6, D7 - which get
progressively longer - so pay special attention to the diagram 1 for the construction of the side walls.
The front wall is completed by using the predrilled plankA5, which has a cut out for the double door.
Now it is time to assemble the gable triangles and the purlins. First lift the gable parts A6/B2 on their places
and then lift two of the purlins L1 on place.
. : Make sure that the gables stand straight and run parallel with
the front and rear walls. Purlins are to be put into position flush with the gable surface. The purlins have been
notched to fit properly with the gables. Fix by nailing the gables and the purlins together. After this, assemble
the gable parts A7/B3 and the next two purlins on their places and fasten with nails. Finally shall the gable
parts A8/B4 and the last purlin (ridge purlin) be fixed. Note that the ridge purlin and the other 4 purlins are
similar in appearance. Please be careful with the gables to prevent the ends from splittering.
Screw the wall timbers C7 and D7 to the gable parts using 2
screws/corner (predrill!). Picture 9
A6/B2
7
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9.
gable triangle
C7/D7

Important!
4.
As we have already mentioned, it is technically impossible to produce absolutely inert material in the case of
wood, even with the most sophisticated production methods, since it is a purely natural material. Due to the
constantly changing temperatures and air moisture content during the course of the year, combined with rain,
wind and sunshine, wood will always shrink and swell alternately, as the pores absorb moisture and dry out
again.
The swelling and drying of the pores in the wood also leads to the "sinking" of the walls described above. This
is why the door and the window in their respective frames are inserted in the walls - this being the best
way to ensure that the wood's "activity" does not cause any damage to the structure.
As a general rule, this phenomenon will level out after one summer/winter season, so you can then screw the
frame to the lowest wall timber at two or three points if you wish to. However, there is no way of avoiding the
necessity of checking. You should in any case check the door and the window at regular intervals, especially at
the beginning and under extreme weather conditions, and adjusting them as required.
This should be done by adjusting the whole frame using gentle taps of the rubber mallet (please use wooden
blocks in between) or by tightening or loosening the hinges.
It is possible that the timbers may warp a little, but this has no influence on the stability and
functionality of the structure, nor can a slight warping of the solid wood door be avoided altogether in
view of the seasons.
loosely
8Lillevilla 80 300109
The threaded rods (corner bolts)
Notice
chapter 7 "Protection against gales" diagram 7
Moreover!
the walls tend to lean outwards towards the top, when being erected - this is to be
expected
allowance above these fittings
Fix to the top of a threaded rod a washer and a nut. Pass the rods of the front and rear walls through the
predrilled holes of the upper planks until you reach the gable. Now fix the bottom of the rod with a washer and
a nut. : Ensure that the rod as well as the washer and the nut should not go beyond the fixing level of the
gable. That's why you have to sink the top of the rod and the washer+nut to the gable by making a hollow into
the gable. Please see also and .
You will notice that
. The structure is secured at the top by means of the plankA5 and the gables, the purlins and the roof-
boards. The rods are improving the strength of the construction.
You will notice that there is still a gap over the door and the windows. This gap is very important for a log cabin
structure - your summer house will "settle" (up to 3-4 cm) during the course of the different seasons and
varying weather conditions. To allow for this, there has to be some , otherwise
the house will " lift itselt apart". When the weather is wet, on the other hand, the wood swells slightly - this gap
is covered on the interior and the exterior by the enclosed facing panels, which are fixed to the frame (not to the
timbers!), so as not to hinder the wood's " activity". For this reason, you should also be careful, for example,
when putting up shelves, that the brackets are not screwed to several timbers, one above the other!

Floor
5.
The floorboards are tongued and grooved -
Begin laying the floorboards at the side wall - the groove of the first board to the
wall. Make sure that they lie flat on the joists of the front and rear wall. See Continue laying the
boards, one after the other. shows how to place the floorboards also of the veranda.
Here, the same applies with regard to the natural warping of the wood (particularly since it is close to the
dampness of the ground), so that a perfect fit cannot be guaranteed. Please make sure that the floorboards are
not laid too closely together - this can be achieved by adjusting the tongues and grooves of the last 5-10 boards
to allow the wood to swell in damp weather, without the risk of the floor arching upwards, as might happen if
the boards were a tight fit. If this causes a problem, you will need to cut the last floorboard.
Once the surface has been covered evenly, the floorboards are nailed securely to the floor-joists and the
skirting boards fixed all the way round.
the underside is recognisable because of its chamfers and 2
slots
Please note that, in the same way as the profiled boards for the roofing, the back of floorboards may
show some unevenness caused by the planer, which is quite normal in the timber manufacturing
process and no real defect.
diagram 3.
Diagram 3b
The skirting board is an attractive way of finishing off the
wall/floor junction.
.
9
3b
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Now check again that the whole structure is perfectly square, that the door can be opened and closed properly
and that the gable follows the lines of the front and back wall (do not forget the rods.)- if all this is all right,
work can commence on the roof.
followed by the to form a firm surface (not too tight),
All the profiled boards should be nailed securely to the
walls, gables and purlins - please trim the last boards (for example, using a fretsaw) for a flush edging on the
outer rim of the purlin/roof edge.
The roof boards have slightly rounded corners in the front side and chamfers
and one groove in the back side. They are assembled the rounded side downwards and the side with the
chamfers and the groove upwards. Here again, any unevenness caused by the planer, rough edges etc.
even in the grooves and tongues, are due to well-tried production techniques and quite normal and not a
reason for reclamation.
Begin with the 2 profiled boards, with the groove pointing outwards, on the outer edge of the purlins/the
top edge of the roof C7 / D7; other profiled boards,
diagram 5. The entire roof should be checked for parallel eaves, a uniform overhang over the walls and
an even, firm support in the case of the purlins.
Afirm, durable anchoring of the roof is important for the stability of the
cabin as a whole!
Take care when you work!
Important!After nailing the roof boards they must be covered immediately!
Roofing
6.
C8/D8
A10/B6
A9/B5
10
Start
Sawing
Finish
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