Luoman Lillevilla 80 User manual

Lillevilla 80
3900 mm x 5650 mm
Terrace 1500 mm
Wall thickness 45 mm
1
45 mm x 135 mm
3900 mm x 5650 mm
28,7 m²
3130 mm
1690 x 1820 mm
1190 x 870 mm
2100 mm
Lillevilla 80 300109
Wall boards
Dimensions of pedestal
Area of roof
Height of ridge
1 glazed double door width x height
3 glazed windows width x height
Height of walls
Guarantee number:
Important! Keep this.
Controlled by:

2
Dear summerhouse owner,
impossible to completely prevent some degree of warping, the
formation of resin and cracks, especially on the outside surfaces
and is not actually a defect in the quality
Note!
Incidentally:
We wish you every success and lots of fun with the construction of your log cabin . . .
Now you can get started...
Thank you for choosing a Luoman log cabin! Your cabin was manufactured with the greatest care
and expertise from good quality, well-dried, fine-grained spruce/pine at our modern plant in Finland.
The material we use is purely natural, and being solid wood is vigorous and active. Despite technical
drying methods it is, nonetheless,
The varying knot formations are
also typical of spruce/pine. These variations are all part of the beauty of wood.
Any rough edges and unevenness caused by the planer etc. on the back of the profiled planks and
floorboards is due to production techniques and
The timber we use (which is, of course, from sustainable forests) is absolutely untreated, except for the
Teknogrund treated parts. That means that the untreated wood will turn greyish over the years, something
which you might choose to avoid by applying a coat of stain(blue-stain inhibitor is recommended) or paint
–please, take notice of the recommendations of the varnish or paint manufacturer. It is not advisable to
paint the wall timbers before assembling them –this is best done when the cabin has been erected and the
weather is fine. However, if you wish to paint odd parts in different colours, this should be done before the
cabin is assembled.
Please check the content of the package before you start building your cabin and contact your dealer
if something is missing or can not be used for the purpose. Claims are not accepted after the product has
been assembled.
adequate ventilation and avoiding waterlogging are still the best ways
of protecting wood against rot.
.
.
®
PEFC/02-31-82
Please NOTE: Luoman Oy reserves all the rights to the photos, drawings, building instructions and other technical
information. Using or forwarding them to competitive purposes is forbidden and will be followed by legal
responsibility for the consequences.
Luoman Puutuote Oy has a Chain-of-Custody system, which is certified by DNV Certification Oy/Ab (www.dnv.com,
certificate 2149-2005-SMS-HEL-DNV). At www.luoman.fi we present the share of certified wood raw material in
your cabin. Our company is a holder of the PEFC logo license PEFC/02-31-82.
Lillevilla 80 300109
Dear Customer,
in a case of reclamation, please inform your dealer about the specific guarantee number of your
cabin. You can find this number on the package and on the front page of this instruction manual.
Unfortunately, without this guarantee number we cannot handle your reclamation!

3
1.
Front wall
15 log layers
15 log layers
Back wall
cut-out 35 mm
cut-out 75 mm
Lillevilla 80 300109

1.
4
16 log layers
16 log layers
Side walls
Lillevilla 80 300109

Foundations
1.
The key to stability, functionality and endurance is a good foundation for your summer house. Only
ensure a perfect fit for the timbers, the door and the window while
guaranteeing stability.
In the general drawing you will find the dimensions of your cabin to allow you to
prepare your footings - the 8+8 pedestal beams are laid crosswise; the 11 T1s, 1.50 m in length, are laid for the
veranda, the 2 T2s, 0.50 m in length, support the corner posts of the veranda's balustrade and the first
floorboard at the entrance. See showing how to place the foundation beams
for the cabin and the terrace.
absolutely level, strong footings
Flagstones or paving bricks on top of a (frost-free) bed of gravel are suitable, but frost-resisting
concrete (either over the whole area or in the form of piers) is also ideal as a base for the floor-joists (and
is also good for ventilation).
diagram 2 and detail drawing
Please read chapter 7 "Protection against gales" before preparing the
foundations.
Pre-sorting
2.
Pre-sorting - you don't need to worry about the number of parts when you open the package -
Please refer to for assistance. This shows all the parts belonging to the 4 walls and
gives you a guide to assembling the entire structure. The references on the drawing allow you to
according to their dimensions - all the parts are listed here
once more, together with their approximate measurements.
everything
becomes much easier once you have sorted the pieces into their appropriate categories!
diagram 1 and the part list
compare
them with the list of parts and allocate the parts
Important! Please check the content of the
packages with the part list and contact your dealer if something is missing or can not be used for the purpose.
5
2.
Nail the jointing boards J1
as shown in diagram
J1
J1
48x98
Lillevilla 80 300109

Erecting the walls + door and windows
3.
Arrange all the parts for each wall on either side
diagram 2.
diagram 1+8
First lock the bottom wall planks (2 full-width wall boards A1 and B1 for the front and rear walls, and 2
half-width boards C1 and D1 for the side walls)
never bang the timbers
directly with the head of the mallet -
diagram 4
diagram 3
of the foundations, leaving 1-2 m working space.
Before you start assembling the walls, lay the 8+8 treated floor-joists (3.90+1,75m) crosswise and about the
same distance apart on top of the footings according to Nail the jointing boards to the floor-joists
as shown in the detail drawing. Even though the joists are treated it is a good idea to insert a layer of
bituminous felt or foil between the wall timbers and the joists to prevent rising dampness. Fix the floor-joists
to the foundations.
Please see for assembling the walls and the veranda.
A rubber mallet is of help everywhere in the assembly process. To avoid damage,
we have enclosed wooden blocks (marked with an "X") to be placed on
the planks for protection purposes - the ends of the timbers protruding at the corners require particular care, to
prevent the wood from splitting. However, if they happen to split or crack it has no negative constructional
effects and cracks can be glued later.
Clean the possible burrs caused by the drilling of the planks of the front and rear wall. That way the planks of
the walls will fit better in the grooves.
This "frame" shows the size of the cabin. At this stage it is important to make sure that the walls are exactly at
right angles to each other!
Screw or nail the first row of timbers to the pedestal beams at the corner joints (making sure to drill the holes
first). See . If you use screws, make sure that they will not lift the half-width boards off the
foundation beams.
Another point: the walls ought to
protrude 5-10 mm over the floor-
joists. This forms an overhang and
prevents waterlogging. Make
absolutely certain that there is an
adequate ledge on the inside to take
the floorboards. See .
Note: slot the floor-joist under the front and rear walls (for the threaded rods,
slots facing outwards).
that log has a cut-out for the door (see
drawing 1).
according to the picture 2b
together. Note A1
6
2b. Slotting the floor-joists for the threaded rods
15050
50
150
20
20
Lillevilla 80 300109

Continue erecting the walls, one layer of planks at a time, according to until the 3rd or 4th timber
has been reached. At this point, the frame of the double door has to be put together, paying attention to right
angles (hinges on the outside) - the 4 strips of beading are fastened by tenon and mortice and are easily joined
together (drill screw-holes first). Now insert the assembled frame carefully in the wall opening provided,
without jamming it. The bottom of the doorsill should be absolutely level with the base.
The walls ase assembled up to the 7th front timber. Now continue with the shorter planks A2 predrilled/ A4,
C3/C5 and D3/D5 and 2 planks later carefully insert the ready-assembled windows in their frames.
Window and door frame should not be fixed to the wall planks.
diagram 1
Note!
The gable triangles and the purlins
Attention
Please make sure to install the window right side up. If installed upside down, the window will fall when
opened.
MAKE SURE that the roof overhang is supported by the planks C4, C6, C7 / D4, D6, D7 - which get
progressively longer - so pay special attention to the diagram 1 for the construction of the side walls.
The front wall is completed by using the predrilled plankA5, which has a cut out for the double door.
Now it is time to assemble the gable triangles and the purlins. First lift the gable parts A6/B2 on their places
and then lift two of the purlins L1 on place.
. : Make sure that the gables stand straight and run parallel with
the front and rear walls. Purlins are to be put into position flush with the gable surface. The purlins have been
notched to fit properly with the gables. Fix by nailing the gables and the purlins together. After this, assemble
the gable parts A7/B3 and the next two purlins on their places and fasten with nails. Finally shall the gable
parts A8/B4 and the last purlin (ridge purlin) be fixed. Note that the ridge purlin and the other 4 purlins are
similar in appearance. Please be careful with the gables to prevent the ends from splittering.
Screw the wall timbers C7 and D7 to the gable parts using 2
screws/corner (predrill!). Picture 9
A6/B2
7
Lillevilla 80 300109
9.
gable triangle
C7/D7

Important!
4.
As we have already mentioned, it is technically impossible to produce absolutely inert material in the case of
wood, even with the most sophisticated production methods, since it is a purely natural material. Due to the
constantly changing temperatures and air moisture content during the course of the year, combined with rain,
wind and sunshine, wood will always shrink and swell alternately, as the pores absorb moisture and dry out
again.
The swelling and drying of the pores in the wood also leads to the "sinking" of the walls described above. This
is why the door and the window in their respective frames are inserted in the walls - this being the best
way to ensure that the wood's "activity" does not cause any damage to the structure.
As a general rule, this phenomenon will level out after one summer/winter season, so you can then screw the
frame to the lowest wall timber at two or three points if you wish to. However, there is no way of avoiding the
necessity of checking. You should in any case check the door and the window at regular intervals, especially at
the beginning and under extreme weather conditions, and adjusting them as required.
This should be done by adjusting the whole frame using gentle taps of the rubber mallet (please use wooden
blocks in between) or by tightening or loosening the hinges.
It is possible that the timbers may warp a little, but this has no influence on the stability and
functionality of the structure, nor can a slight warping of the solid wood door be avoided altogether in
view of the seasons.
loosely
8Lillevilla 80 300109
The threaded rods (corner bolts)
Notice
chapter 7 "Protection against gales" diagram 7
Moreover!
the walls tend to lean outwards towards the top, when being erected - this is to be
expected
allowance above these fittings
Fix to the top of a threaded rod a washer and a nut. Pass the rods of the front and rear walls through the
predrilled holes of the upper planks until you reach the gable. Now fix the bottom of the rod with a washer and
a nut. : Ensure that the rod as well as the washer and the nut should not go beyond the fixing level of the
gable. That's why you have to sink the top of the rod and the washer+nut to the gable by making a hollow into
the gable. Please see also and .
You will notice that
. The structure is secured at the top by means of the plankA5 and the gables, the purlins and the roof-
boards. The rods are improving the strength of the construction.
You will notice that there is still a gap over the door and the windows. This gap is very important for a log cabin
structure - your summer house will "settle" (up to 3-4 cm) during the course of the different seasons and
varying weather conditions. To allow for this, there has to be some , otherwise
the house will " lift itselt apart". When the weather is wet, on the other hand, the wood swells slightly - this gap
is covered on the interior and the exterior by the enclosed facing panels, which are fixed to the frame (not to the
timbers!), so as not to hinder the wood's " activity". For this reason, you should also be careful, for example,
when putting up shelves, that the brackets are not screwed to several timbers, one above the other!

Floor
5.
The floorboards are tongued and grooved -
Begin laying the floorboards at the side wall - the groove of the first board to the
wall. Make sure that they lie flat on the joists of the front and rear wall. See Continue laying the
boards, one after the other. shows how to place the floorboards also of the veranda.
Here, the same applies with regard to the natural warping of the wood (particularly since it is close to the
dampness of the ground), so that a perfect fit cannot be guaranteed. Please make sure that the floorboards are
not laid too closely together - this can be achieved by adjusting the tongues and grooves of the last 5-10 boards
to allow the wood to swell in damp weather, without the risk of the floor arching upwards, as might happen if
the boards were a tight fit. If this causes a problem, you will need to cut the last floorboard.
Once the surface has been covered evenly, the floorboards are nailed securely to the floor-joists and the
skirting boards fixed all the way round.
the underside is recognisable because of its chamfers and 2
slots
Please note that, in the same way as the profiled boards for the roofing, the back of floorboards may
show some unevenness caused by the planer, which is quite normal in the timber manufacturing
process and no real defect.
diagram 3.
Diagram 3b
The skirting board is an attractive way of finishing off the
wall/floor junction.
.
9
3b
Lillevilla 80 300109

Now check again that the whole structure is perfectly square, that the door can be opened and closed properly
and that the gable follows the lines of the front and back wall (do not forget the rods.)- if all this is all right,
work can commence on the roof.
followed by the to form a firm surface (not too tight),
All the profiled boards should be nailed securely to the
walls, gables and purlins - please trim the last boards (for example, using a fretsaw) for a flush edging on the
outer rim of the purlin/roof edge.
The roof boards have slightly rounded corners in the front side and chamfers
and one groove in the back side. They are assembled the rounded side downwards and the side with the
chamfers and the groove upwards. Here again, any unevenness caused by the planer, rough edges etc.
even in the grooves and tongues, are due to well-tried production techniques and quite normal and not a
reason for reclamation.
Begin with the 2 profiled boards, with the groove pointing outwards, on the outer edge of the purlins/the
top edge of the roof C7 / D7; other profiled boards,
diagram 5. The entire roof should be checked for parallel eaves, a uniform overhang over the walls and
an even, firm support in the case of the purlins.
Afirm, durable anchoring of the roof is important for the stability of the
cabin as a whole!
Take care when you work!
Important!After nailing the roof boards they must be covered immediately!
Roofing
6.
C8/D8
A10/B6
A9/B5
10
Start
Sawing
Finish
Lillevilla 80 300109

Attach the wide fascia boards C8/D8 flush with the roof - .
Then the work can begin on the roofing fabric. Cut sheets the length of the roof with exactly 90° corners and
start laying the roofing felt parallel to the eaves. Be sure to allow an overhang of 2-3 cm - this is the best way of
protecting the roof planks from dampness. See Start at the eaves and finish with a strip along the
apex. Then follow the wind shieldsA9/B5 and finally, the ends of the lengths of roofing fabric are fixed behind
the wind shields using the stripsA10/B6.
diagram 6
diagram 6a.
A10/B6
Protection against gales
7.
Your 45 mm log cabin is extremely solid and stable - there is no doubt about that, but the burden on any house
caused by the force of gales must be considered.
For this reason, a stable, firm foundation - house - roof connection is all-important. To enhance the gale
recistance of your summer house, the Lillevilla 80 is equipped with a tension rod system. This is probably the
best and most stable solution that can be provided for log cabins.
To ensure this safety to the full at all times, you should regularly tighten the nuts of the tension rods, gently and
without force. In the damp months the wood is likely to swell - then loosen the nuts a little. This allows the
walls to "readjust" without being hindered by the threaded rods.
11
Lillevilla 80 300109

In a view of the "sinking" described above, it is possible that the threaded rods touch the ground or the
foundations and could damage the roof when pushed upwards. Then simply saw a piece off the end with a
metal saw, so that they do not rest on the ground any more.
(please note that the drawing is not showing exactly the model Lillevilla
80). At very windy and stormy building places special care must be taken when fixing the cabin to the
foundation and when fixing the roof construction to the cabin. This might require some extra hardware, which
are not included in delivery.
Diagram 7
Note!
This has to be considered already when the
foundations are prepared.
Threaded rod Threaded rod
Washer and nut Washer and nut
Wall supports
8.
The wall supports shall be mounted to the front and rear walls. They are ment to give extra support for the long
walls of the cabin. There are three slits and one pre-drilled hole in each wall support. Screw the metal plates
(can be found from the accessories bag, see ) on the slits (2 screws/plate and 3 plates/support). Fit
the supports to the front and rear walls as shown in diagram. The lower end of the support may reach the floor
inside the cabin. Drill 13 mm holes through the wall boards in the top third of the slit on the support and fix
using enclosed bolts, washers and nuts . It is important not to tighten the nuts too firmly, to allow the structure
room to "settle". Fix the wall supports down firmly using remaining bolts and nuts.
diagram 7b
You can then cover the
wall supports with the help of the covering boards and nails.
12
7b Bolt
Washer
Metal plate
Metal plate
Washer
Nut
Wall support
Wall support
Wall timber
Drill 13 mm
Metal plate
16x57mm
16x57mm
16x57mm
16 x 145mm
16 x 145mm
Covering boards
Nail 45 mm
Lillevilla 80 300109

Erecting the veranda
9.
Now it is time to add the veranda. Begin by laying the 11, 1.50 m long foundation beams T14 according to
. These are pushed slightly under the front wall of the cabin - the depth of the veranda is determined
by the balustrade. indicates in detail how the veranda should be constructed. See the part list of the
veranda on the next page.
The 2 short foundation beams T15 are inserted under the corner posts leading to the entrance of the veranda, to
support the first floorboard.
The 2 half-width planks T5 are placed on top of the outer foundation beams - here too, please allow a slight
overhang and sufficient space on the inside to take the flooring of the veranda. Now lay the floorboards T16/1
and T16/2 (see ), and arrange them prior to nailing them, so that they are evenly spaced (
. The final floorboard T17 protrudes slightly at the front between
the corner posts - please make sure that this board is well and firmly supported by the foundation beams.
The floorboard next to the house shall be screwed in place to be removed when checking the tension rod
system of the house.
The corner posts are screwed to the footings using metal brackets as well - then lay the T9 + T10 veranda
planks as the two U-profile strips T11 to finish the right and left-hand sides of the entrance.
Finally, attach the balustrade to the cabin using the 4 T12 connecting planks. The remaining smooth-edged
timbers T18/1 and T18/2 are nailed to the foundation beam by way of an optical facing - please ensure that the
whole of the base is well ventilated. This is still the best protection against rot.
diagram 2
Diagram 8
diagram 3b there
should be a gap of about 1 cm between them)
13
8.
Lillevilla 80 300109

14
List of parts for terrace
Lillevilla 80 300109
Part Dimension in mm. Pieces Mark Control
Wall timber 45 x 135 x 930 4 T1
Wall timber 45 x 135 x 375 8 T2
Wall timber 45 x 135 x 250 8 T3
Wall timber 45 x 135 x 930 2 T4
Wall timber, half-width 45 x 67 x 1500 2 T5
Wall timber 45 x 135 x 1500 4 T6
Wall timber, half-width 45 x 65 x 375 2 T7
Wall timber, half-width 45 x 65 x 250 2 T8
Balustrade 34 x 145 x 970 2 T9
Balustrade 34 x 145 x 1500 2 T10
U-profile 34 x 65 x 640 2 T11
Connecting plank 16 x 145 x 650 4 T12
Metal brackets 2 T13
Foundation beams 48 x 98 x 1500 11 T14
Foundation beams 48 x 98 x 500 2 T15
Floorboards 21 x 95 x 3778 14 T16/1
Floorboards 21 x 95 x 1780 14 T16/2
Floorboard 21 x 95 x 3990 1 T17
Facing plank 21 x 95 x 3210 1 T18/1
Facing plank 21 x 95 x 2430 1 T18/2

15
Completion and preserving + treating woodwork
10.
Once you have completed the window and door fittings, fix the facing panels to the frames to cover the slits
above the windows inside and outside the cabin. We stress the importance of mounting them on the framework
and not on the wall timbers, to allow the structure room to "settle".
Please note that we have designed the windows with removable crossbars, to make cleaning the window or
painting the frame easier. Care should be taken when removing and replacing the window cross, since it is a
tight fit.
Regular visual checks help to avoid damage before it occurs. Please remember that fitting adjustments to the
different parts are an unavoidable part of the care programme.
We wish you a lot of pleasure from your Lillevilla 80.
We reserve the right to amend the technical specification.
Treatment and painting must be done twice immediately after building up the house. It’s very important to use
treatment fluid including protection against moulding and blue stain (please ask further advise from the seller
of the treatment fluid). Follow the instructions of the producer of the treatment fluid. The best result will be
achieved in dry circumstances when the temperature is over +5 ºC. Doors and windows must be treated from
both sides. The building needs to be treated also with protection against blue stain and moulding (specially the
corners). Treatments both in and outside must be renewed regularly following the instructions of the producer
of the protective liquid. Follow carefully the condition of the South side wall, because ultraviolet radiation
effects more to it than to the other walls.
In despite of the treatment, moisture can get in from corners, knots, splits and joints of the parts. If needed, you
can prohibit this with silicon, for example.
Note that split knots of light log houses can let protection material flow and make tracks to the other side.
Water absorbs to the wood construction easiest through the heads of the timber (ends of logs and fascia
boards). So treat these points with great care and often enough. Also other timber parts being under heavy
strain of weather and wear (fascia boards, wind covering boards, parapets and facing planks of the terrace)
should be treated quite often, yearly if necessary.
It is recommended to install
venthole gratings (not included) at the top of gable triangles to let extra moisture out.
It is very important to make sure the ventilation works, also under the house.
Lillevilla 80 300109

Part Dimension in mm. Pieces Mark Control
Foundation timber 48 x 98 x 3900 8
Foundation timber 48 x 98 x 1750 8
Jointing board 21 x 95 x 400 14 J1
Floor boards 18 x 87 x 3805 65
Skirting board, running meters 20 x 30 19 m
Purlin 66 x 225 x 4590 5 L1
Roof boards 17 x 87 x 3120 106
Double door, type D 1690 x 1820 1
Door frame parts 4
Window, type D 1190 x 870 3
Facing panel above window, outside 20 x 95 x 1300 3
Facing panel above window, inside 20 x 95 x 1250 3
Threaded rods 2200 mm 4
Roof felt 14 m x 1, 10 m x 2 3
Wall support 45 x 120 x 2600 4 F1
Covering board for wall support 16 x 145 x 2600 4
Covering board for wall support 16 x 57 x 2600 8
Screws, nails etc. 1
Wooden blocks for assembly 45 x 65 x 250 2
Front wall A
Wall timber, cut out for door below 75 mm,
predrilled
45 x 135 x 5850 1 A1
Wall timber, predrilled 45 x 135 x 623 20 A2
Wall timber, predrilled 45 x 135 x 3527 6 A3
Wall timber 45 x 135 x 1709 7 A4
Wall timber, cut out for door above 35 mm,
predrilled
45 x 135 x 5850 1 A5
Gable triangle, predrilled 45 x 314 x 5560 1 A6
Gable triangle, predrilled 45 x 449 x 3928 1 A7
Gable triangle, predrilled 45 x 555 x 2272 1 A8
Wind shield 16 x 145 x 3170 2 A9
Strips for roof felt 16 x 95 x 3170 2 A10
Rear wall B
Wall timber, predrilled 45 x 135 x 5850 15 B1
Gable triangle, predrilled 45 x 314 x 5560 1 B2
Gable triangle, predrilled 45 x 449 x 3928 1 B3
Gable triangle, predrilled 45 x 555 x 2272 1 B4
Wind shield 16 x 145 x 3170 2 B5
Strips for roof felt 16 x 95 x 3170 2 B6
Side walls C and D
Wall timber, half-width 45 x 67 x 4100 1+1 C1, D1
Wall timber 45 x 135 x 4100 6+6 C2, D2
Wall timber 45 x 135 x 623 6+6 C3, D3
Wall timber 45 x 135 x 753 1+1 C4, D4
Wall timber 45 x 135 x 2282 7+7 C5, D5
Wall timber 45 x 135 x 4360 1+1 C6, D6
Wall timber 45 x 135 x 4590 1+1 C7, D7
Fascia board 16 x 95 x 4590 1+1 C8, D8
List of parts
11.
16
All measurement approximately.
We reserve the right to make changes.
Lillevilla 80 300109
Lillevilla 80
45 mm