Marine Concepts Sea Pearl 21 User manual

Sea Pearl 21 & Sea Pearl Tri-Sport
Owner's Manual
Dear Sailor,
Congratulations on your purchase of a Sea Pearl 21.
Your Sea Pearl is constructed with the finest material available for use in production operations.
Exotic materials are used where needed and otherwise avoided to ensure dependability. It is
constructed with proven methods by experienced craftsmen, and with proper care will last a lifetime.
As you get to know you pearl, you will find yourself possessed with a pride of ownership. The unique
qualities of the Sea Pearl will always attract attention and will prompt questions from the gallery of
onlookers at the launch ramp. The effortless setup and easy launching will usually turn a few heads.
This pride of ownership will be reinforced as you discover her unique sailing characteristics and what
they can do for you. Her speed and responsiveness are complemented by her seaworthiness. The
knowledge that you have a sure quick reefing system adds to your peace of mind.
It is wise to rig your boat at home and to familiarize yourself with the lines before your first launch.
This could save you the embarrassment of a humorous mistake with something misunderstood or the
disappointment of missing something essential to your sailing.
It is also wise to sail with good judgment on your first few times out. Choose good weather with wind
conditions near the ideal range of 10 -12 knots. More or less than this could be a frustrating
experience especially for an inexperienced sailor. Learning the sailing characteristics of an unfamiliar
rig is difficult in light air and next to impossible in heavy air.
It is our intention to provide you with the basic knowledge to allow you to get off to a good start and
feel confident in your knowledge of what to expect out of the boat.
Happy Sailing,
Jim Leet
President
Marine Concepts, inc
159 E. Oakwood St
Tarpon Springs, FL 34689
[phone]

MAINTENANCE AND CARE OF YOUR BOAT, SAILS AND TRAILER
Boat:
1. A good coat of tough wax before the boat is used and scratched will insure your hulla longer lasting
finish. (This is especially critical for the colored hulls.)
2. If you scratch your hull, don't despair, we can send you some touch up gel and instruction. (The
gel's shelf life is only 3 months, longer if it's well sealed and kept cool, so it cannot be kept for long
periods.) Small scratches can be sanded out of the gel coat with "fine" sand paper.
3. If you have teak rails, we are now using Sikkens Marine (Cetol), which is a teak sealer and final
finish in three coats. The company says it will last a year, if we get six months that is better than most
and it has very high UV protection. It can be easily touched up in any worn areas.
4. Deck stains can be scrubbed off with cleaner and scrub brush or removed with acetone. Acetone
can also be used to clean road tar and grease off your hull. (It will also remove wax. It is powerful, so
use it sparingly.)
5. Your bronze fittings will develop a green patina that looks great. But if you like that shiny look, a
good brass cleaner and elbow grease will do the gob. They can also be shined to a good gloss and
then coated with a clear polyurethane for a long lasting shine.
6. Keep mast tube vacuumed out and lube with a dry silicone spray.
7. Clean black mast rings with acetone and spray with silicone.
8. Leeboard hinges can be taken apart and cleaned with a wire brush. Keep them lubed with
Lanacote.
Sails:
1. If your sails get dirty, they can be spot cleaned with a clean acetone rag. For overall dinginess just
throw them in a swimming pool that has chlorine in it. Spread them out and check in one hour. Don't
leave them for 2 days, and then complain that they are no longer colored! The time will vary
according to the amount of chlorine in the pool but a couple of hours should suffice.
2. Be sure if any stitching comes loose to attend to the matter ASAP as it will only worsen with use.
Any local sail maker can re-stitch this or a sail makers needle and nylon or cotton covered polyester
thread will let you do the job.
3. After a windy day in salt water, the sails should be rinsed in fresh water and dried before storage.
4. Sheet lines can be scrubbed white with bleach added to the scrub water.

Trailer:
1. Hose down the trailer after putting it in salt water. Even though the trailer is galvanized the springs
and some parts are not and will rust.
2. Check grease in your bearing buddies often. If you over fill, the bearings will spew the grease all
over your wheels. When you are applying grease with a grease gun make sure the grease fitting is
accepting the grease (it could be stopped up with dirt). To check for bad bearings, jack up the trailer
and check for play in the wheels. A road noise will also indicate a bad bearing.
3. A little 3-in-One oil on your winch handle fittings will insure a smoother turning handle.
4. Check for frayed winch strap and replace if worn, as this could be a dangerous problem if it broke
while loading the boat.
5. Turning the license plate holder to the up position will keep you from scraping, bending, and losing
the plate.
TRAILERING
This subject is covered in a separate manual provided by the trailer manufacturer. The following
points in trailing pertain to the Sea Pearl specifically.
1. Some means of securing the bow tightly to the bow roller is needed. This can be either a separate
line, or a loop through the bow eye and under the tongue with the bow line. This should be checked
frequently on long trips.
2. The leeboards should be tied together with a slippery hitch. This prevents them dropping and also
takes the strain off of the cam cleats. The line should be led over the mast in order to help hold them
down.
3. The masts should be lashed to the forward mooring cleat.
4. A tie down line securing the boat to the trailer can be attached from the trailer frame to the trailer
frame. This should go over the leeboards and should include some chafing gear. There are several
ways this can be handled and you should take note of how it is done at delivery to you.
5. The tiller should be lashed firmly between the stern cleats. A clove hitch will hold it athwartship and
then hitch to cleats. Leave it to one side so as to present the flat surface to a car following you. This
gives greater visibility than the edge. For longer trips consider putting the entire rudder assembly in
the forward cockpit, but tie or clamp on a red flag to the upper gudgeon after doing so.
6. Tow with the cockpit drain plug removed and the tonneau cover in place and you will survive a
rainstorm.
7. To keep the mast from rubbing your gel during traveling, take a pair of heavy socks and put them
over the mast ends. Also, on the boom ends to keep from scratching the interior of your boat.
8. Bungie in your oars and other loose articles to keep from scratching or otherwise damaging the
interior.

RIGGING INSTRUCTIONS
Mast Assembly:
1. Each mast is packaged separately.
2. Main mast has the long bottom or heavy section and the short top or light section.
3. The mizzen mast has the shortest heavy section and the longest light section.
4. The main has the longest boom and the mizzen the shortest.
5. The top section simply fits into the bottom section. ( no fasteners) However, it is good to tape the
two sections together with a strong tape to eliminate movement between the two.
6. Both masts will be the same length when put together.
7. The booms are held into the gooseneck with a quick release pin. Some older models rely on
pressure from the outhaul and vangs.
Attachment of booms:
1. Attachment begins ideally with sails furled around the masts. To furl them, simply hold tension
on the clew of the sail and turn the mast. Another hand or a gentle breeze is helpful here. We
suggest that you do not try this in a heavy breeze the first time.
2. Position the sail slide near the center of the boom. (This is so the boom will be balanced after
attachment.)
3. Fasten the clew of the sail to the boom sail slide with the snap shackle.
4. You are then ready to release the furled sail and roll it out by turning the mast. Let the sail
support the boom, and slide the outhaul outward as more sail is unfurled, until it is all out or
you have as much out as desired for the wind conditions. Caution: Keep the sail flat with
tension against the clew with the outhaul line or boom while you are unfurling the sail. If you
don't, it can have a violent whipping action in high winds and can cause serious injury when
out of control. When done correctly, there is no strain or violent motion. Practice!
5. Insert the gooseneck pin into the hole in the boom end. (This step not necessary on newer
reefing goosenecks, as their booms always stay attached while unfurling or furling the sail.)
6. Attach the sheet line to the boom bail at aft end of boom.
NOTE: This procedure is for both main and mizzen. You will also note that this system allows you to
reef very easily by releasing the tension on the outhaul and removing the vang at the mast. You may
then release the slide lock on the gooseneck and roll up as much sail as you desire. Reset the slide
lock, tighten the outhaul and then snap on the vang. Easy to do, but practice makes perfect.

MISCELLANEOUS TIPS
1. If the top section of your mast is out of synchronization with the bottom section, merely twist it
before you raise it. Check your downhaul to make sure it is tight. If you have already raised
your mast and find the problem, loosen the down haul and move the bottom section while
holding tension on the rolled out sail with the boom. A quick motion is best.
2. The cockpit drain will serve as a good tool to remove a stubborn water ballast drain plug. It will
also open a beer bottle without twist on caps!
LAUNCHING YOUR SEA PEARL
You will find your Sea Pearl 21 easy to launch and recover if you will follow these simple steps.
1. Before launching you MUST consider the following:
a. Are there any electric wires near the ramp or beach?
b. Is there a suitable place to beach the boat nearby where rigging might be easier?
c. Will you have to rig at the dock or pier or in a congested area?
d. Will the wind direction let you rig sails on the trailer and if so would that be desirable?
NOTE: The ideal situation is to launch at a beach where you can step the masts and rig sails at your
leisure. On the other hand if you are launching alongside a dock, you may want to rig on the ramp as
opposed to the water. You should at least step the masts first in this case.
2. Remove all tie down lines and the tonneau cover. Install all drain plugs.
3. Free rudder, leeboard/centerboard pendants but leave them cleated in the up position.
4. Lay a bow line and stern line, cleat them off at the ready and lead them forward.
5. Step the masts and lay the booms on deck. Rig sails if you desire and the wind is favorable.
6. Remove the tilt pin from the trailer if the ramp or beach is shallow.
7. Back trailer in until the tires are just touching the water (if planning to tilt the trailer),or the stern
of the boat goes into the water (if not planning to tilt the trailer).
8. Remove winch line at this point and pass the bow line forward through the chock. NOTE: If
launching beside a dock or pier, the stern line should be handed to a bystander or some
provision made to control the stern as she floats.
9. Push up and aft and she should slide easily into the water. If not, check the height of the aft
roller and make sure it is high enough to take most of the weight. Also make sure you haven't
backed TOO FAR into the water, thus preventing the trailer from tilting.