Massive 100 Series User manual

Hidden Console Vault
Weld-It-Yourself Kit
PN: 100HCV-K
100 Series Land Cruiser/Lexus LX470
Congratulations on your new Massive Hidden Console Vault! This instruction manual illustrates the
recommended steps to assemble your kit, but by all means feel free to build it as you see fit!
INTRODUCTION
Your kit includes the following parts:
Lid
Front Panel
Rear Panel
(2) Side Panels
Bottom Panel
Simplex Lock Kit
Hinge
Hardware Bag (6 screws, 4 washers, 2 flange nuts, lock bolt, bolt guide block)

Take note of the orientation of the side panels. There is a relief cut for the spring hinge (circled in red).
VAULT ASSEMBLY
1. Degrease all surfaces before welding.
2. Weld the hinge on the proper end to prevent tampering/removal of the pin.
Open and close the hinge. You will notice at one end the hinge pin will appear to rotate
inside the leaf. Do not weld this end as it will restrict movement. At the other end the
hinge pin should appear to be fixed with the leaf as it is opened and closed. Place a tack
weld on this end. Check for unrestricted movement. The hinge should operate
smoothly with some spring resistance.
Grind the tack weld flush to allow proper fitment with the lid.

3. Assemble the vault by sliding the panels into place using the slots and tabs. Use magnets or
clamps to hold the vault together. All edges should fit flush with each other. Grind off any burrs
if necessary to achieve good fitment.

4. Slide the hinge into place in the relief cut, underneath the rear panel’s top flange, as pictured.

5. Tack weld the panels together anywhere you prefer. A good place to place tack welds is inside
the slots since these welds may be ground off later.
6. Seat the hinge flush against the rear panel flange. Grind off any burrs if necessary in order to
achieve good fitment between the hinge barrel and flange. Plug weld the hinge into place.

7. Weld all 14 slots on the front, rear, and bottom panels.
8. Weld the side panels between the tab locations as shown. Avoid welding near the holes in the
rear panel where the rear cup holder mounting bolts pass through.

9. Weld the front and rear panels on either side of the tab location as shown.

10. Tack weld the flange nuts over the holes on the rear panel. Verify the mounting screws freely
pass through the holes. These will be used to reattach the rear cup holder bracket.
11. Grind down all of the slot and plug welds flush.

LID/LOCK ASSEMBLY
1. Remove the four Phillips screws to disassemble the lock, being careful not to disturb the
position of the internals (cam, knob, etc.). The buttons fall free so it’s best to disassemble the
lock upside down.
2. With the lid upside down, place the part C into the lid’s slot from underneath, as pictured.

3. Place part B onto the lid, as pictured. Then place the lock body (part A) on top of the assembly
and screw together.

4. Insert the lock’s bolt into its slotted arm and through the supplied bolt guide block. Turn the
lock knob to fully extend the lock arm (see manufacturer’s instructions for lock operation).
Position the bolt guide block approximately 1/16” away from the slotted arm.
5. Clamp bolt guide block into place and check the lock function. The lock should open and close
freely without interference with the lid’s front lip or the bolt guide block.

6. Tack weld the bolt guide block to the lid. Remove the clamp and place the lid on the vault.
Check for interference between the bolt guide block and the front panel. The lid should swing
open and closed without any obstruction. Verify the lock is functioning properly, locking the lid
in place and unlocking to allow it to open. This is probably the most critical step of the build so
take your time! Repeat this step if necessary until proper function is achieved.
7. If you are satisfied with all movement and function of the lid and lock assembly, remove the lock
assembly and weld the bolt guide block into place.

8. Weld the lid corners. Grind down the corners to a smooth, even radius.

FINAL ASSEMBLY
1. Place the lid onto the vault, centered and flush against the hinge barrel. Grind off any burrs if
necessary in order to achieve good fitment between the barrel and lid edge. Plug weld the lid
onto the hinge. Grind down the remaining plug welds.

2. Reinstall the lock.
3. The lock chassis should sit flush against the lid. If there is a gap along the red line pictured
below, there may be a slight interference between the lock chassis and the hinge leaf (circled in
red). If so, slightly radius the rear edge of the chassis with a grinder and reinstall the lock. The
lock is sitting properly in this photo.

4. Verify proper lid and lock functionality.
5. Remove the lock, primer and paint it pink, and you’re all done!