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From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

Instructions for Setting Up and Operating
THE MERKOW
High Speed
Trimming and Overseaming Machines
Class 60
The Merrow Machine Company
28 Laurel Street
Hartford, Conn., U. S. A.
Copyright by
The Merrow Mnchine Compnny,
1905. 1909. 1918, 1917, 1919, 1922. 1928. 1930, 1933, 1937, 1944
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

THE MERKOW MACHINE COMPANY
T
^HIS comx)any has exclusive control of
numerous inventions for which Letters Patent
liave been granted, under some of which the
machines indicated in this book have been
made.
These patents also include many products
and methods.
All machines other than those made by
this company containing any one or more of
the features covered by any of said patents,
infringe the latter, and each individual maker
or user is liajjle for the profit obtained by the
use of the patented inventions as well as
damages siistained by the owner of the
patents.
All these imu^hines are especially designed
and constructed for continuous running at
high speed, and with reasonable care they are
always used witli great economy in cost of
production and I'epairs.
- " 'v. ]
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

.CLASS 60 INSTRUCTION BOOK
Power Transmitter
In operating our machines it is necessary or desirable to use some kind
of power transmitter or underdriver for conveniently starting and stopping
the machine by the foot of the operator, the power for driving the machine
being sui>plied usually from a driving shaft near the floor, under the table.
We are prepared to furni.'^h ball bearing power transmitters for round belt
from driving shaft and for the usual round belt to the machine, including split
pulley for driving shaft.
All our split pulleys are bored to fit !•£%" shafting which is the standard
size in general use and which we recommend, but if the driving shaftis slightly
larger we can rebore the pulley to fit or if smaller it can be properly bushed.
Any power transmitter suitable for driving sewing machines will answer
for our machine.
When a power transmitter is ordered, we should be advised of the size
of the driving shaft and the speed at which it runs, in order that we may
supply a split pulley of the right bore to fit and of suitable size to run our
machines at the proper speed.
See "How to order supplies" on page Jf.
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

THE MERROW MACHINE COMPAN.Y
The ball bearing transmitters permit of setting the machine at or very
near the front edge of the table and are desirable for continuous running at
very high speeds.
The front end of the forward leg of the ball bearing power transmitter
should be set under the table about one and one-half inches back from the
front edge of the base of the machine set on top of the table.
A convenient guide for boring the belt holes at the proper angles may be
made from a short piece of board four inches wide and seven-eighths of an
inch thick with either end sawed to the proper angle, which can be taken from
a .sketch made to scale in the manner indicated on page 3.
HOW TO ORDER SUPPLIES
A Price List of Parts for the Merrow Class 60 Machines, alphabetically
and numerically arranged with illustrations of model.«: of parts and code words
therefor, is available upon request.
Refer to illustrated parts and order by model number there given, stating
both serial and style number of the macliine for which the parts are wanted.
When ordering needle plate, specify width of finish desired, whether long
or short chaining finger and size of needle used.
Loopers may be ordered by model number, which is stamped on the shank
of each looper; or otherwise, by stating whether upper or lower loopers and
whether for the one, two or the three-thread stitch, together with the style
or serial number of the machine in which they will be used.
We have a complete record of all parts of each machine as it leaves our
factory and as all parts are strictly interchangeable we can supply duplicates
if given the name of the part with serial and style number of the machine.
Postage, registry, special delivery and insurance cost will be charged.
We shall take every possible precaution to insure prompt and safe delivery
but cannot be responsible for delays or losses in transit.
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

CLASS 60 INSTRUCTION BOOK
Instructions for Setting Up and Operating The Merrow
High Speed Trimming and Overseaming
Sewing Machines, Class 60
Introductory
The Merrow High Speed Trimming and Overseaming Sewing Machines
are made in many modifications and it is hardly feasible to include in this
book complete instructions for all variations.
The general instructions immediately following apply to all varieties of
this class except when otherwise stated, and the specific instructions, as
therein explained, apply to particular styles or varieties of the same class of
machines.
For identification of the various parts named in these instructions reference
may be had to the illustrations with names of typical parts in the back pages
of this book.
Many of the modified forms of the Class 60 Machines have become stand
ard varieties, some of which are so designated by a letter or letters following
the class number as, for instance, GOAD, GOB, GOD, etc.
AD indicates "Sweater" machine with differential feed.
ABB indicates Butted .Seaming.
Bindicates that the machine produces a deep finish.
BU indicates machine for scalloping Marseilles quilts.
Dindicates differential feed, as for instance GOD, GOUD, etc.
D3B indicates extra wide butted seaming.
E indicates two or three thread machine without cutters.
Findicates machine without trimmers for "serging".
Hindicates blind stitch hemming for bottom of shirts.
JDC indicates Rayon Seaming.
Kindicates the *'K" stitch for sewing on cuffs.
Qindicates three-thread shell stitch.
RD indicates retentive edging—for scalloping or straight edging.
Sindicates blind stitch hemming for the tops of stockings.
SS indicates selvage seaming.
Uindicates scalloping edges on quilts, flannelette and the like.
UD indicates ends of ties, closing toes of stockings and mock seaming.
See "How to order supplies" on page 4-
5
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THE UERROW MACHINE COMPANY
Windicates that the machine produces the "W" stitch which is a three-
thread stitch with the needle thread drawn down closely on both sides of the
goods, making a close, tight seam
having the appearance of a lock stitch seam
when the two pieces which have been overseamed together are flattened out
single, leaving the overedge seam projecting inside the goods, thus finishing
or covering the raw edges and producing a tight seam in
one operation.
Setting Up the Machine
1. Provide a smooth table with a'top at least two inches thick and about
twenty-eight inches high.
2. Immediately after removing the machine from its box observe the
threading carefully and compare it with the descriptions of threading in
sections 100to 106,and the figures therein referred to. The manner of thread
ing is not exactly the same in all style machines.
3. Secure the machine to the table with the felt padsent with the machine
under the base of the machine using the screws also sent with the machine,
the hand wheel being at the right of the operator and the front or base of the
machine parallel with the front edge of the table and the center of the main
shaftof the machine not more than five inches back from the front edge of the
table.
Do not screw the machine to the table very tightly.
If the ball bearing power transmitter described on pages 3 and 4 is used,
the machine may be set with the front of its base at the very front edge of the
table as has been found desirable in some cases and particularly for the Style
60S Machines.
4. A driving device known as a power transmitter or underdriver should
be used for running the machine. See page 3.
5. The shaft which drives the power transmitter should be
1^ inches
diameter which is the standard size, and should be located under the table about
9 inches above the floor and sufficiently back from the front edge of the table
to be at all times beyond the reach of the clothing of the operator. See page 3.
6. Use round leather belt inch diameter to drive the machine from
the power transmitter.
7. Avoid crossed belts when possible.
8.
The top of the hand wheel must turn from the operator.
Speed
9. The Styles 60, 60H, 'iOK, 60S and 60AV Machines, as well as some
special varieties which cannot be enumerated here, are
adapted to run con
tinuously at very high speed, and we recommend three thousand to three
thousand five hundred stitches per minute according to conditions. While
the machines may run well with little care they will give better results with
suitable attention and care.
See "How to order supplies" on page Jf.
6
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CLASS 60 INSTRUCTION BOOK
Many Merrow Machines have been known to run a year and longer with
out a single part being replaced or even an adjustment.
10. The Style GOB Machines are recommended to run at twenty-five
hundred to three thousand stitches per minute according to conditions.
11.
For the recommended speed of styles not enumerated above, refer to
description of the individual style in our catalogue.
Thread Stand
12. Screw the thread stand to the table top back of machine with the left
end of the base far enough to the right to be clear of the goods which pass
back beyond the machine.
13. The thread, yarn or silk should be wound on cones or conical bobbins
which should stand vertically, the tlyead leading up to the top of the thread
stand and
thence diagonally downward to the machine.
14. Never run the thread, yarn or silk from cylinders or from two headed
spools—cones are best.
15. Use no needles or other parts not made expressly for the machine.
16. Keep the machine clean.
17. Before re-assembling a machine, after having removed any of its
parts, be sure
that every surface of every part is thoroughly clean and free
from all grit and lint and that each frictional surface is oiled.
18. Oil frequently, at least
four times a day.
19.
These machines are necessarily fitted very closely in order to attain
their very high speed and great durability, and therefore they need frequent
oiling, especially when new. Use best quality of lubricating oil. We do not
recommend so-called stainless oil for the purpose.
20. After continued idleness first use kerosene oil.
21. Parts cannot be changed in form without liability to injury.
The Needle
22. Self-setting needles marked "D", used in all varieties of recent
Class 60 Machines, are of the following sizes, viz: No. GOOD, No. GOD, No.
OD, No. ID, No. '2D. No. 2DF, No. 2SD, No. 3D, No. 3SD, No. 3SDF, No.
4D, No. oD and No. 8D, all have straight shanks, flattened at one side, and
curved blades, the No. GGOD being the finest.
23. Use No. 3D needle for general work and always when practicable.
24. Adjust the "D" needles with the end of the shank in contact with the
stop pin in the needle carrier.
25. Tighten the nut at the left of the upper part of the needle carrier
just firmly but not unduly to hold the needle in place.
26. The blade of the needle must not be too large for the slot in the
needle plate. If a needle too large is once forced through the needle slot,
the latter is likely to be much injured.
See
"How to order supplies" on page 4-
t
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THE M E R R O W MACHINE COMPANY
The Needle Carrier
' 27. The needle carrier must be perfectly free to swing upon its stud but
must have no lateral movement. This adjustment is accomplished by first
loosening the needle-carrier-stud set-screw which is located in the frame of
the machine, directly back of the center of the needle carrier stud, and acces
sible from the rear of the machine, outside. If the loosening of this screw is
neglected in a single instance the machine will be injured. See cut on next page.
28. Screw the needle carrier stud in or out very delicately until the
proper adjustment is attained and then tighten the needle-carrier-stud set-
screw and lest the needlecarrier again. When replacing this stud, after remov
ing it, clean it thoroughly, oil it, and be careful to enter it properly so as never
to cross the threads and thus injure the
hole, as the threads are very fine.
The Needle Plate
29. The needle slot must always be large enough to permit the blade
of the needle to pass
through freely .without contact with the needle plate.
30. Aneedle plate for the wide finish or seam cannot be used in machine
made for the narrow finish or seam.
31. A needle plate with very short finger must usually be used in con
junction with apresser foot provided with along finger.
32. A needle plate with long finger is for use in conjunction with a
presser foot without finger, but in exceptional cases is used with a presser foot
provided with afinger.
See sections 47 to 51, concerning presser feet.
The Lower Looper
33. The lower looper is best set and adjusted before the upper looper is
placed in the machine and after the needle has been properly set in accordance
with sections 22 to 26, the needle plate being, preferably, but not necessarily,
removed.
34. To set the lower looper: First loosen the lower looper screw which is
accessible through a hole in the front of the frame cap. As this screw is justto
the left of the upper looper screw, be sure to loosen the proper screw. Turn
the hand wheel (the top from the operator) until the lower looper carrier has
moved to its extreme right hand position and has begun to move towards
the left with the needle rising. Then push the lower looper into its carrier
(it should pass in easily), at the same time slowly turning the hand wheel
until the needle is at
or near the extreme upward position. When properly set
the eye
of the lower looper should exactly register with the hole in the lower
See "How to order supplies" on- page 4.
8
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

CO
/
NEEDLE
CARRIER
STUD
SET
SCREW
eCFORE
A0JUSTIN6
NEEDLE
CARRIER
STUO,
LOOSEN
THIS
SET
SCREW.
BE
SURE
TOTISHTEN
SET
SCREW
AFTER
ADJUSTMENT
OF
NEEDLE
CARRIER
STUD.
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From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

rN.
THE MERROW MACHINE COMPANY
looper thread tube (just under and supporting the needle plate), which can be
determined by using a small wire (the threading wire sent with the machine
will do) which should pass through the hole in the lower looper thread tube
and directly through the eye of the lower looper when the latter is in its extreme
outward (left hand) position and the needle up. Tighten the lower looper
screw firmly but not unduly, then turn the hand wheel and see that the point
of the lower looper comes into gentle but certain contact with the needle as
the looper moves Inward.
The point of the looper should cause the needle to
deflect or dodge slightly in passing.
When the lower looper, without athread eye, is at its extreme left hand
position below the needle plate, the point of the lower looper should extend to
the left, beyond the needle at least one thirty-second of an inch.
If the lower looper screw is tightened unduly it may spring the lower
looper shank and the lower looper carrier.
The Lower Looper Carrier
35. The lower looper carrier is beveled at its top and bottom edges form
ing a "dovetail" which is guided and runs between the upper and lower gibs
and a reversible plate, all located on the inside face of the frame cap, the lower
gib being located permanently, and the upper gib being adjustable by means
of the upper gib key held to the frame cap by a screw in a slotted hole. The
reversible plate is clamped in positive position by the upper and lower gibs.
When worn, this plate may be reversed to present a new bearing surface.
36. The lower looper carrier should be perfectly free to travel its full
stroke horizontally in either direction but should have no undue lost motion
up and down.
37. Adjustment of the sliding fit of the lower looper carrier can be made
by means of the upper gib key above the upper gib. After readjustment,
tighten both screws which hold the upper gib and the screw that holds the
upper gib key and lastly test the sliding fit of the lower looper carrier as it
must not bind the least at any point in its travel.
The Upper Looper
38. Upper loopers are made in two general forms, one style for two-
thread stitch and the other for three-thread stitch, the former kind being
made with a throat to carry the lower looper thread to the needle above,
and the other kind being made with an eye to carry the third thread through
a loop of the lower looper thread and over to the needle above the fabric.
The adjustments of two kinds of upper loopers are similar.
39. The upper looper should always be set, with the needle and lower
looper previously in adjustment. See sections 32 to 26 concerning the needle,
and sections 33 and 3-1 concerning the lower looper.
See "Hozv to order supplies" on page 4-
10
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CLASS 60 INSTRUCTION BOOK
40. The upper looper is secured to the upper looper carrier by a screw
accessible through the right hand end of the opening through the front of
the frame cap. This screw (which is located just to the right of the screw for
the lower looper) must be loosened before introducing the upper looper and
care should be taken not to loosen the wrong screw.
41. In setting the upper looper, turn the hand wheel until the needle is
at or near its highest position when the upper looper screw will be accessible
and the upper looper can be introduced into its carrier after its screw is suffi
ciently loosened.
42. The upper looper should be pushed into its carrier (it should pass in
easily) until by turning the hand wheel forward and backward it is found that
the looper when moved from right to left above does not hit the point of the
needle. Then
turn the hand wheel (top from the operator) until the point of
the upper looper is about to pass down back
of the lower looper when it should
be examined to see that its point does not conflict with the back side of the
lower looper. When properly adjusted finally, the point of the upper looper
should pass by the slabbed or flattened portion of the lower looper, in very
gentle contact therewith,
just to ihe left of the boss or bulge around the eye
of the lower looper, the front side of the upper looper at the right of the thread
passage being clear of the bulge around the eye of the lower looper.
When so
adjusted the upper looper screw should be finally tightened, firmly but not
unduly, as the parts might be sprung with too much force. Finally turn the
hand wheel (top from the operator) a number of turns and see that the loopers
and needle are properly adjusted to each other. If the upper looper is set too
far outward (to the left) its point may catch the needle thread below and
cause skipping or imperfect stitching.
A small percentage of Class 60 Machines employ lower loopers without
a thread eye, and in such cases the point of the upper looper, when below
the needle plate, should pass to the left beyond and just clear of the extreme
left hand end of the lower looper.
See section 44 to 46 concerning looper carrier guide, etc. See sections
100 to 106 concerning threading.
The Upper Looper Carrier
43. The upper looper carrier must be perfectly free to travel its full stroke
in either direction but must have no lost motion laterally. This adjustment
can be tested by taking hold of the upper looper, when it is in its extreme
outward position above the presser foot and needle plate, and alternately
pressing it toward and from the operator. If there is any lateral looseness
besides aneeded freedom, then the looper
carrier guide needs adjusting, for
which see the following section. If there is undue looseness vertically the cam
rolls probably need renewing.
See "How to order supplies" on page Jf.
11
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THE M E R R O AV M A C II T N E COMPANY
The Looper Carrier Guide and Adjusting Slide
44. The looper carrier guide is attached at one end. to the frame cap by
two screws,
near the right hand edge of the frame cap, accessible outside.
These screws should always be light and should not be loosened unless to
remove the upper looper carrier, after the frame cap is taken from the
machine.
45. The left end of the looper carrier guide is designed to rest against
the forward end of the adjusting slide which is located in a channel at the
left end of the machine frame, between the latter and the head of the machine
and is held in adjustment by a screw accessible at the rear of the machine.
The adjusting slide should be adjusted to press always against the left end of
the looper carrier
guide, which is made to spring within limits, to hold the
upper
looper carrier so that it will have no lost motion or looseness laterally
towards or away from the operator. This can best be
done by partially loosen
ing its retaining screw and with a hammer gently tapping the adjusting slide
forward and testing, afterward tightening the retaining screw.
46. When the looper carrier guide is too tight to allow perfect freedom of
movement of the upper looper carrier, the left end of the looper carrier guide
may be adjusted backward by first fully
loosening the retaining screw at the
rear end of the adjusting slide, moving the latter slightly backward, then
partially tightening the retaining screw and with a light hammer gently tapping
the adjusting slide forward as before explained. TJie screw which holds the
adjusting slide being partly- loosened when adjusting the looper carrier guide.,
must be afterwards tightened.
The Presser Foot
47. For ordinary seaming, where seams or thick and thin places must be
crossed, a hinged presser foot with a finger around which the stitches are
formed, should be used in conjunction with a needle plate with a very short
finger and an u])per looper, for producing the two-thread stitch.
48. For i)lain seaming with the two-thread stitch when seams are .not
to be crossed, a plain presser foot with finger instead of a hinged presser foot
is recommended.
49. For ordinary three-thread work, use a presser foot with a stub finger
or a presser foot made to use without presser foot finger, in conjunction with
a needle plate with a long finger and an upper looper with an eye.
50. For edge finishing only with two threads, in exceptional cases a
presser footwith a finger and a needle plate with a long finger are used together
to advantage.
51. Ordinarily use as little pressure for the presser foot as is practicable,
the degree of pressure being adjustable by the presser foot adjusting screw
See "How to order supplies" on page 4.
IS H
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

CLASS 60 INSTRUCTION BOOK
at the upper part of the head, of the machine, which screw may be held in
adjustment by the small set screw at the right side of the upper part of the
head.
See next following section about presser foot fingers.
Presser Foot Fingers
52. The presser foot finger should be so adjusted upon the presser foot
that its left edge just covers the right edge of the slot in the needle plate, so
that if the point of the needle should be slightly deflected to the right it would
not hit the needle plate. If then the presser foot finger is not wide enough
for its purpose use a wider one.
53. For stitching with two threads, use a long presser foot finger of
suitable width.
54. For stitching with three threads, use presser foot stub finger, if any,
instead of the long finger.
See sections 47 to 51. concerning presser foot.
The Trimmer
55. With few exceptions the Class 60 Machines are provided with cutters
for trimming off the surplus material at the edge of tlie fabric, simultaneously
with, but alittle in advance of the overseaming or overedging.
The Lower Cutter
56. The lower cutter is held in place in the lower cutter holder by the
lower cutter clamp with slotted clamp nut accessible at tlie left of the lower
cutter holder, with the cutting edge at the top end and to the right and about
one thirty-second of an inch above the top of the needle plate. It should
never be set so high as to come in contact with the bottom or edge of the
presser foot. When the cutter is properly located vertically, tighten its clamp
nut firmly but not unduly.
57. To remove the lower cutter loosen its clamp nut and push the cutter
upward.
58. The lower cutter holder is held in adjustment by a clamp screw in
front of the lower cutter holder support and is laterally adjustable by means
of a collar screw (usually with slotted head) in the lower cutter holder support,
at the left and just below the lower cutter holder. It is best to loosen the clamp
screw before adjustment and tighten it when adjustment is completed.
59. As the lower cutter is used in conjunction with the upper cutter it
is best to first set the lower cutter in its proper vertical position and then set
it laterally to the right distance from the line of penetration of the needle,
afterwards setting the upper cutter in accordance with sections 62 to 65, and
See "How to order supplies" on page Jf.
IS
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THE MERROW MACHINE COMPANY
finally very carefully adjust the lower cutter into easy but certain contact
with the upper cutter.
60. The lower cutter should press against the upper cutter as gently as
possible
and yet do its work. When both cutters are very sharp the pressure
together may be very light, and after running that way until they begin to
show signs of imperfect cutting, the pressure may be slightly increased. In
this way the cutters will last a long time under good conditions without
sharpening.
61. The adjustments should be made delicately as the cutters (excepting
for special purposes) are not held in contact by a spring, all of the movements
being positive. If the cutters are forced together tightly they will not last
well and the machine may thus be made to run .hard.
See sections 73 to 79 for instructions about sharpening cutters.
The Upper Cutter
62. The upper cutter is secured to the upper cutter holder by the upper
cutter holder clamp and is adjustable therein diagonally up or down. Ordi
narily it should be so set that its cutting edge when in its lowest position will be
alittle below the top
of the lower cutter, the lower cutter being set first in
accordance with sections 56 to 61.
^ 63. To remove the upper cutter, first remove the upper cutter clamp.
64. The upper cutter holder is adjustable laterally by first loosening
an hexagonal headed binding screw at the top of the upper cutter carrier
(using a small wrench sent with the machine) and thus the upper cutter can
be set laterally to trim the proper width or depth from the line of penetration
of the needle. When adjusted to the proper position laterally, tighten the
binding screw, just firmly but not unduly, and then adjust the lower cutter as
explained in sections 56 to 61.
65. If the fabric is very thick or if heavy seams are to be cut across, the
upper cutter should be set somewhat higher than for thin fabric. In any case
the upper cutter must be so set that its downwardly projecting guard will be
at all times in contact with the right hand face of the lower cutter.
The lower
cutter should be in the machine when adjusting the upper cutter.
See sections 56 to 61 concerning the lower cutter with which the upper
cutter must co-operate.
See sections 72 to 79 for instructions for sharpening the cutters.
The Cutter Grinder
66. Each customer should have a special cutter grinder particularly
adapted for grinding the cutters for the Class 60 Machines.
67. Those not provided with a cutter grinder can have dull cutters ground
by sending them to our office in Hartford, or to our distributing points in
See "How to order supplies" op. page 4-
U
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CLASS 60 INSTRUCTION BOOK
New York, Philadelphia, Chicago, Boston, Baltimore, Cleveland, St. Louis,
or other centers in the United States and abroad.
68. The grinder should be secured to a suitable table near the machines,
in a good light, with the swinging handle of the grinder at the right of the
operator.
69. An ordinary power transmitter such as is xised to drive sewing ma
chines is the most economical method of driving the grinder and aquartei
inch round belt is best for the purpose.
70. The grinder is provided with a casing surrounding and protecting a
grinding wheel, 3^" diameter, the top of which should turn toward the oper
ator, and which wheel may be run
8,000 to 8,500 revolutions per minute.
71. Do not use this grinder for anything but these cutters. A picture
of the cutter grinder above described is shown on page 48.
See the next following sections for instructions in the use of the grinder.
Sharpening the Cutters
72. The upper and lower cutters are best sharpened by grinding the
cutting endsdiagonally in a special grinder made for the purpose. Seesections
66 to 71.
73. The cutter should be placed in its proper groove in the swinging
handle of the grinder, with the cutting end at the left side thereof and pro
jecting from one-sixteenth to one-eighth of an inchoutward (toward the wheel)
and tightened therein by a thumb-screw which acts on a clamp over the cutter.
74. One each of the upper and lower cutters may be ground at the same
time, or only onecutter at a time as desired, but one of each should beinserted
in the grooves of the swinging handle of the grinder when grinding only one
cutter.
75. If only onecutter is to beground at a time the onenot to be ground
should not project to the left beyond the holder.
76. In setting a cutter in the grinder handle or holder, be sure that the
retaining groove for the cutter in the holder is perfectly clean and that the
handle is adjusted sufficiently to the right (away from the wheel) by means
of the fluted adjusting nut at the left of the base so that the cutter cannot
at first come in contact with the grinding wheel, and afterwards slowly and
very delicately adjust the handle towards the wheel, at the same time slowly
swinging the handle back and forth, thus carrying the cutter entirely across
the grinding face of the
wheel until the cutter comes slightly into contact
with the wheel, and continue the operation until the end of the cutter is
sufficiently ground, but no more.
See "Ho7v to order supplies" on page Jf.
15
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THE MERROW MACHINE COMPANY
77. If, in grinding, the cutters are not carried entirely across the grind
ing face of the wheel the latter will soon become worn unevenly and the
cutters may then be injured or spoiled in grinding.
78.
But very little need be ground off the cutters and if too much is
ground at one passage across the face of the wheel the temper of the cutter
will i)e drawn and its cutting quality greatly impaired.
The cutter should not and need not be discolored by grinding.
79. After grinding properly, the edge will be pretty smooth but can be
much improved in real sharpness and durability by carefully oil-stoning the
edge, at the same time carefully removing any slight burr or feather edge.
Skill and care will be well repaid with good and lasting results.
Tensions
80. There is a separate tension device for each thread and two threads
should not be passed through one tension.
81. Ordinarily in the two-thread machines, the needle thread should have
relatively considerable tension and the lower loo])er thread but very little
tension, just enough to cause the take-up to lightly act upon it clear to the eye
of the lower looper.
82. Ordinarily in the three-thread machines which make the "W" stitch,
forming a close, tight seam considerable tension is required on the needle
thread and much less tension is needed upon the other two threads.
83. In the three-thread
machines which produce an edge fini.sh the
three tensions must be balanced to each other so that the lower looper thread
will be evenly and not very tightly looped along the edge of the fabric, giving
any required degree of elasticity. If the lower looper thread is too tight the
stitch will be inelastic, which however, is an effect sometimes wanted. The
coarser the lower looper thread the less amount of tension usually required.
84. The edge of the fabric .should be finished or overseamed for a short
distance while running the machine at its usual speed by power, and the
stitching should then be examined to ascertain whether or not the tensions
are properly adjusted.
85. In come cases a great difference in the character of the fabric used
will indicate
.some needed slight change in th^ tension of one or more of the
threads.
86. Generally, it is advisable to keep the tension as light as possible and
produce good results.
To this end, see that the thread having the least tension has just sufficient
tension to properly control it, so that its take-up will operate well, then adjust
the tensions upon the other threads to properly balance and form stitches of
suitable appearance and tightness. If then, any of the threads break in running
the machine at its usual speed, it is possible that all of the tensions need
tightening very •slightly.
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CLASS 60 INSTRUCTION BOOK
Take-Ups
87. Take-ups, which are not adjustable are usually provided for the
several threads and are referred to in connection with threading in sections
ICQ to 106.
The Feed
88. The feed dog should generally be set as low as practicable.
89. The length of the feed can be changed by removing the feed eccentric,
which is secured to the left end of the lower .shaft, and substituting another
feed eccentric of different throw.
90. The feed eccentrics are marked to indicate approximately the numbei
of stitches per inch at the edge of the fabric when the latter is not retarded
in passing through the machine.
91. The feed dog and the needle plate must match each other.
92. Machine styles containing the letter D in their designation, such as
60D, 60BD, 60HD and 60KD, contain a differential or gathering feed- The
differential feed contains two separate feed dogs with their separate feed car
riers and separate feed eccentrics. When it is desired to prevent the edge of
the fabric from being stretched or lengthened while seaming or finishing, the
forward feed dog is made to travel a greater distance than the rear feed dog
by using a feed eccentric of greater throw for driving the forward feed dog
thari is used for driving the rear feed dog, a slight difference in some cases
being sufficient.
As these two feed eccentrics are placed in a machine with a differential
feed, the innermost one, within the longer of the two links, controls the front
feed dog and the outer one within the shorter link controls the rear feed dog.
For overseaming or ovcredging knitted fabrics the size of the outer feed
eccentric controlling the rear feed dog, that is to say the one producing shorter
feed is invariably of a higher number than tiie inner feed eccentric controlling
the front feed dog. The number of each feed eccentric and the difference
between the two is dependent on the number of stitches required per inch and
the elasticity of the fabric itself. The de.sirecl comi)inations are determined
i)y experimenting with feed eccentrics of different numbers.
93. A feed eccentric extractor for use in removing the feed eccentrics
from the end of the main shaft is sent with each machine.
Swinging Work Plate
94. All except some special varieties of Class 60 Machines are provided
with a swinging work plate, which should be swung backwards out of the
way when hemming or finishing small tubular goods such as cuffs, the tops
of stockings, etc., permitting the tube of fabric to encircle the needle plate
in the manner shown on page 22, where the work plate has been permanently
removed for continual use on tubular work.
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THE MERROVV Mx\ CHINE COMPANY
95. For general use the work plate is closed as shown in the cut on the
title page.
Swinging Edge Guide
96. A quickly .adjustable swinging edge guide is used on some varieties
of Class GO Machines, and is supplied at an extra charge.
97. These guides are almost necessary when seaming and trimming such
parts of garments as sleeves, to the wrists of which flat cuffs with selvage
edges have l)een previously sewed, and which selvage edges must be seamed
but not trimmed.
In using such guides they are swung out of use while seaming the sleeve
until the cuff is nearly reached when the guide is swung into place thus holding
the selvage edges just barely away from the cutters, to be overseamed together
without being injured by the cutters.
When the swinging guide is so used apresser foot to match must be used
in connection with it.
98. The swinging guide has a relatively large range of adjustment and is
frequently used to indicate and limit the amount to be cut off from the edge
of the fabric before overseaming so that the fabric may not be wasted and
that the goods will be of uniform shape and size.
99. Numerous other kinds of edge guides have been originated and
adapted to these machines for special purposes.
Threading
100. Owingto thegreat varietyof modifications of the Class GO Mach'nes
it has been necessary or very useful to lead and manipulate the threads in
many different ways in order to accomplish the most perfect results and it
seems hardly feasible to give a description of all the variations for special
purposes, hut descriptions of threading many of the Class 60 Machines will
he found in sections 101 to 106 and in the cuts referred to therein, on pages
to 40, both inclusive.
In order to follow out the courses of each of the threads, it will be found
convenient to refer to the cut of the particular style of machine in question.
Ordinarily, hereafter, a print showing the threading will be sent with each
machine as some of the threadings are special,^ but for general purposes, cuts
have !)een included in this book and may be referred to in connection with
the printed description of the threading.
Usually the style number of each machine, as well as its individual num
ber, is stamped upon ilie name plate of the machine. Special threading instruc
tions will usually be sent with other varieties.
For best results, care must be taken to properly thread each machme.
While many of these varieties will run well when threaded in some other
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••'
CLASS 60 INSTRUCTION BOOK
manner than recommended, it is ihought that the best general results will not
be obtained in other ways.
The Needle Thread
101. The course of the needle thread while much alike in all machines
varies somewhat and the differences are well illustrated in the cuts on pages
25 to 40
of this book. In some of the machines, as previously built, no take-up
is provided for the needle thread.
The Threading Wire
102. In threading the looper threads it will be found convenient to use
a threading wire sent with the machine, by passing the end of the thread
through the loop in the end of the wire and afterwards using the threading
wire much as one would use an ordinary threaded sewing needle.
The Lower Looper Thread
103. After threading the needle, slowly turn the hand wheel if necessary
to carry the lower looper into its extreme left hand position, with the needle
at or near its highest position. Then pass the lower looper thread through the
tensions and thread eyes and take-up as indicated in the proper cut illustrating
the threading of the same style of machine as is being threaded. (See pages
25 to 40 for cuts.) The last thread eye for the lower looper thread to pass
through will be found near the left hand end of and near the base of the
machine.
The end of the thread should now be passed through the loop in the thread
ing wire sent with the machine, unless the threading wire has been put into
use at anearlier stage of the threading process. As the lower looper has previ
ously been moved into its proper position for threading, the eye of the looper
should be directly in line with the passage in tlie lower looper thread-tube (upon
which the needle plate rests). Push the end of the threading wire into and
through the passage in the thread tube and througli tlie eye of the looper and
pass the threading wire entirely through the eye of the looper, thus carrying
the thread through it. Disengage the threadingwire from the thread and draw
the end of this thread together with the end of the needle thread backward
to take out all slack in both threads back to the tensiojis.
104. In the two-thread machines, the machine is then ready to "chain'*
which should be tested by turning the hand wheel (the top of the hand wheel
turns from the operator) two or thr(;e turns and if stitches are fonned, cut
off the long ends of loose threads and the machine is then ready to stitch
excepting the possible need of adjustment of tensions, for which see sections
80 to 86.
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