MHSC Savannah SSI30 User manual
For Residential Installation
6" (152 mm) Flue Required
Owners Manual
63D4004 9/10 Rev. 6
203061
VSI30 cover
SSI30 Wood Insert
263D4004
Congratulations on your choice of a MHSC Savannah. With this purchase, you made a com-
mitment to make the hearth a place of warmth, beauty and comfort in your home. At MHSC,
we share that joy and appreciation of the hearth, and we show it in all our cast iron inserts and
fireplaces.
As you become acquainted with your new insert, you will find the aesthetic appeal of cast iron
is matched only by its superb capacity to absorb and radiate heat.
Also, MHSC products are among the cleanest burning wood inserts and fireplaces available
today. As an owner of a MHSC insert, you are making a strong statement for pollution-free en-
ergy. But clean burning depends on both the manufacturer and the operator. Please read this
manual carefully to understand how to properly operate your insert.
At MHSC, we are equally committed to your satisfaction as a customer and that is why we main-
tain an exclusive network of the finest dealers in the industry. Chosen for their expertise and
dedication to customer service, our dealers are factory-trained and know each MHSC product
in detail. Feel free to contact your Authorized MHSC Dealer anytime you have a question about
your insert or its performance.
We have built your insert with the utmost care. With normal use and proper care, it will provide
you with many years of service.
This manual contains valuable instructions on the installation and operation of your MHSC insert.
You will also find useful information on assembly and maintenance procedures. We urge you
to read the manual thoroughly and to keep it as a reference.
Sincerely,
This manual describes the installation, operation, and maintenance of the MHSC Savannah
wood burning heater. This heater meets the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s emission
limits for wood heaters sold on or after July 1, 1990. Under specific test conditions this heater
has been shown to deliver heat at rates ranging from 11,000 to 30,600 Btu/hr.
The insert has been tested and is listed by OMNI - Test Laboratories, Inc. of Portland, Oregon.
The test standards are ANSI/UL-1482 for the United States, and ULC S628 for Canada. The
Savannah is listed for burning wood only. Do not burn other fuels.
Installation or service of this woodburning insert should only be completed by a qualified installer,
preferably NFI or WETT (Canada) certified.
Please read this entire manual before you install and use your new insert. Failure to follow
instructions may result in property damage, bodily injury, or even death.
SSI30 Wood Insert
63D4004 3
Questions ..................................................................... 3
Safety Information ........................................................ 4
Insert Dimensions and Specifications........................... 6
Surround Options ......................................................... 6
Pre-installation instructions........................................... 7
Clearances ................................................................... 8
Floor Protection ............................................................ 8
Chimney Clearances .................................................... 9
Installation ...................................................................11
Operation .................................................................... 16
Maintenance ............................................................... 18
Replacement parts ..................................................... 20
FAQs........................................................................... 22
Warranty ..................................................................... 24
Gold Door Trim SSW30GDTK
Nickel Door Trim SSW30NDTK
Adjustable Raised Hearth Kit SSI30AH
Offset Flue Kit OFC3 & OFC6
Read these instructions carefully before installing or trying to operating this woodburning appliance.
Please leave these instructions with the appliance.
Please retain these instructions for future reference.
WARNING
!
HOT GLASS WILL
CAUSE BURNS.
DO NOT TOUCH GLASS
UNTIL COOLED.
NEVER ALLOW CHILDREN
TO TOUCH GLASS.
First, contact the MHSC Dealer from whom you purchased your insert, for parts and service. Have the
following information ready:
• Date of purchase
• Serial number (from the back of your insert)
• Model number (from the back of your insert)
• Dealer name and phone
If you still need assistance, contact MHSC technical support (below).
See the last page of this manual for general warranty information. For additional information, contact
your MHSC dealer or MHSC Parts and warranty.
Before installing your appliance, be sure to write down the model and serial numbers and keep
them in a safe place. Once installed, this information is no longer visible on your appliance.
SSI30 Wood Insert
463D4004
Read all instructions and warnings carefully before starting installation. Failure to
follow these instructions may result in a possible fire hazard and will void the warranty.
MHSC inserts and component parts have been tested to
operate safely when installed in accordance with instruc-
tions provided in this manual. Carefully read and under-
stand all instructions before beginning installation.
If you notice any damage to insert or component parts,
immediately report damage to your MHSC dealer.
Only use MHSC components or the warranty will be voided
and a fire hazard may be created.
MHSC warranty will be voided by and MHSC disclaims any
responsibility for the following actions:
•
•
(except for chase flash-
ings as detailed in MHSC Chimney Top installation
instructions).
• MHSC
•
MHSC
MHSC
Consult local building codes to ensure that you are in
compliance installing the insert.
This insert and chimney system must be vented out-
doors.
1. Check with the building inspector’s office for compliance
with local codes; a permit may be required.
2. This appliance requires a masonry or prefabricated
chimney listed to ULC S629 (Canada) and UL 103HT
(U.S.) sized correctly.
3. A 6" (152 mm) diameter flue is required for proper
performance.
4. Always connect this unit to a chimney and VENT
TO ANOTHER ROOM OR INSIDE A BUILDING.
connect this unit to any duct work to which
another appliance is connected such as a furnace.
connect this unit to a chimney flue serving
another appliance.
The connector pipe and chimney should be inspected
periodically and cleaned if necessary.
8. Remember the clearance distances when you place
furniture or other objects within the area. store
wood, flammable liquids or other combustible materials
too close to the unit.
9. Contact your local municipal or provincial fire authority
for information on how to handle a chimney fire. Have
a clearly understood plan to handle a chimney fire. In
the event of a chimney fire, turn air control to closed
position and
tamper with combustion air control beyond
normal adjustment.
SSI30 Wood Insert
63D4004 5
— 6" (152 mm)
Draft is the force, which moves air from the appliance up
through the chimney. The amount of draft in your chimney
depends on the length of the chimney, local geography,
nearby obstructions, and other factors. Too much draft
may cause excessive temperatures in the appliance. An
uncontrolled burn, a glowing red part or chimney connector
indicates excessive draft. Inadequate draft may cause back
puffing into the room and “plugging” of the chimney and/or
cause the appliance to leak smoke into the room through
appliance and chimney connector joints.
Today’s solid fuel appliances are much more efficient than
in the past. The units are designed to give you controlled
combustion, as well as maximum heat transfer, using less
fuel to do so. The design of your new appliance is such that
the exhaust “smoke” is now at lower temperatures than in
the past, therefore requiring proper chimney size to give
adequate draft. If your chimney is too large, the heating
appliance will have a difficult time to raise the “chimney
flue” temperature to give adequate draft, therefore causing
a smoke back up, poor burn, or both.
With the door closed, the rate of burning is regulated by
the amount of air allowed to enter the unit through the air
control. With experience you will be able to set the control
for heat and burning time desired.
Do not abuse the glass by slamming the door or striking the
glass with a log. Never operate your insert if it has damaged
or broken glass. If you need to replace the glass, use only
replacement glass provided by your MHSC dealer.
Once the required chimney draft is obtained, operate only
with doors closed and open slowly when re-fueling. (This
will reduce or eliminate smoke from entering the room.)
Attempts to achieve higher output rates that exceed heater
design specifications can result in permanent damage to
the heater. The recommended wood load is level with the
top of the firebricks. Overloading may prevent sufficient
air entering the heater to properly fuel the fire.
For optimum heater performance at “low”
burn rate, operate the fan at low speed.
Standard Blower: 110v 130 CFM
• Adjustable wrench
• Flat & Phillips screwdriver
• Drill
• Tape measure
• Safety gloves
• Eye protection
• Appropriate venting components
• Furnace cement
SSI30 Wood Insert
663D4004
Log Length ............................................ 20" (508 mm)
Maximum burn time2 ........................................10 hours
Average area heated (sq.ft)2 .......................2,200 sq. ft.
Range of heat output3 .............................11,000-30,600
Maximum heat output1 ........................................55,400
EPA emissions rating (g/h, non-catalytic) ..........3.5 gph
Weight ................................................................360 lbs
Loading ................................................................. Front
Air Control ..........................................................Manual
2756O” (699 mm)
2056O”
(521 mm)
226M” (578 mm)
22”
(559 mm)
*14” (356 mm)
*10” (254 mm)
556O” (140 mm)
203061
VSI30 dims
* Surround Adjustment
1. Maximum burn times and heat outputs are based on laboratory
testing using full loads of seasoned hardwoods, and may vary
in individual use depending on how the insert is operated, type
and moisture content of fuel, and other factors. Maximum
burn times are achieved under different operating conditions
than are maximum heat outputs.
2. These values are based on operation in building code-
conforming homes under typical winter climate conditions in
the U.S. If your home is of nonstandard construction (e.g.
unusually well-insulated, not insulated, built underground,
or if you live in a more severe and more temperate climate),
these figures may not apply. Since so many variables affect
performance, consult your MHSC Authorized Dealer to
determine realistic expectations for your home.
3. Under specific conditions used during EPA emissions
testing.
40” (1016 mm)
30”
(762 mm)
44” (1118 mm)
34”
(864 mm)
SSI30S40 SSI3044
ST1064
SSI30 Surround options
ST1064
SSI30 Wood Insert
63D4004 7
1. Check with local building official for local code require-
ments.
2. The fireplace must not be altered for the purpose of
accommodating the installation of this insert, except for
removal of any of the following: flue damper, smoke shelf
or baffle, ember catches, fire grate, viewing screen/cur-
tain and/or doors.
Do not remove the metal warning label attached to the
back of your insert.
3. Have your chimney and fireplace cleaned and inspected
for serviceability before installing appliance. A profes-
sional chimney sweep can provide this service. They
can also offer advice or install chimney liners and your
insert.
a. Masonry fireplaces and chimney must be inspected
for cracks, loose bricks or mortar. The chimney and
fireplace must be cleaned before installing insert.
Dirty chimneys can affect performance and cause
fires.
b. Factory built fireplaces should be inspected for
cracks, leaky joints, corrosion, warping, and any
sign of structural or mechanical weakness. Correct
any faults before installing insert. Check clearances
of chimney to combustible surface as you inspect
joints.
4. Plan your chimney connection system that makes the
most sense for your particular situation. Make a list
of the component you will need. There are two basic
categories of fireplaces—manufactured and masonry.
Chimneys can be steel or masonry. Liners are avail-
able to size the chimney to the insert and provide best
performance and safety.
The actual connection from the unit to the chimney is
made with adapters. One end will fit the 6” round flue
collar and the other end will fit the chimney liner. Offset
adapters are used in low clearance cases where the
flue of the fireplace is recessed quite a bit, or the back
of the fireplace is tapered to a smaller dimension than
the insert.
Use the dimensions guide on Page 6 to help you under-
stand if you will need an offset adapter.
5. Here are a few chimneys and connection types to give
you an overview:
Flue size is important! The cross sectional area
of the chimney should not be larger than 3 times the
cross sectional area of the insert.
a. Masonry chimney with sealed throat and partial liner
extended above the fireplace damper—This is not
a recommended system. It requires the insert be
removed to clean the chimney. The mass and over-
all size of many masonry chimneys can cause start
up problems and creosote that can lead to chimney
fires. Be sure to check the size of the flue.
b. Fully lined masonry chimney—This uses a flexible
or ridge liner that is directly connected to the insert
using a flexible, rigid or offset adapter. A good instal-
lation provides good performance and allows you
to clean the chimney without removing the insert, in
many cases.
c. Factory built chimney with full liner—Directly con-
nected to the insert using flexible, rigid or offset
adapters.
6. Review mantel, hearth and clearance to combustibles
information on Page 8. Add to your list any protective
shielding, hearth or surround components you will need
to complete the installation.
7. Order all the installation components from your dealer.
Once you have them, you are ready to begin.
SSI30 Wood Insert
863D4004
A
BC
D
E
F
ST1065
SSI30 clearances
Sidewall
Mantel
Fascia or
Trim
ST1065
A. To side wall 11" (279 mm)
B. To mantel (12" max.) 23" (584 mm)
C. To top trim (3/4" max.) 16" (406 mm)
D. To side trim (3/4" max.) 7" (178 mm)
E. In front of insert (1/2" min.) 18" (457 mm)
F. To side of insert 8" (203 mm)
12”
Max
ST1066
mantel clearance
Offset
Adapter
ST1066
All floor protection must be non-combustible (i.e. metal,
brick, stone, mineral fiber, etc.). Any organic materials (i.e.
plastics, wood or paper products, etc.) are combustible and
must not be used. The floor protection specified includes
some form of thermal designation such as R-value (thermal
resistance) or k-factor (thermal conductivity).
PROCEDURE:
1. Convert specification to R-value:
• R-value given. No conversion needed.
• k-factor is given with a required thickness (T) in
inches: R = (1/k x T
• k-factor is given with a required thickness (T) in
inches: R = (1/Kx12) x T
• r-factor is given with a required thickness (T) in
inches: R = r x T
2. Determine the R-value of the proposed alternate floor
protector.
a. Use the formula in step (1) to convert values not
expressed as "R."
b. For multiple layers, add R-values of each layer to
dtetermine overal R-value.
3. If the overall R-value of the system is greater than the
R-value of the specified floor protector, the alternate
is acceptable.
The specified floor protector should be 3/4"
thick material with a k-factor of 0.84. The proposed alter-
nate is 4" brick with and R-factor of 0.2 over 1/8" mineral
board with a k-factor of 0.29.
Step A. Use formula above to convert specification to R-
value. R= (1/k) x T = (1/.84) x 0.75 = 0.893
Step B. Calculate R of proposed system.
4" brick of R = 0.2, therefore: Rbrick = 0.2 x 4 = 0.431
1/8" mineral board of k = 0.29, therefore: Rmineral board = x
0.125 = 0.431
Rtotal = Rbrick + Rmineral board = 0.8 + 0.431 = 1.231
Step C. Compare proposed system Rtotal of 1.231 to
specified R of 0.893. Since proposed system Rtotal is
greater than required, the system is acceptable.
Floor protection must be at least 1/2" minimum non-
combustible material with a “K” value of 0.84, extending
18" (457 mm) in front of and 8" (203 mm) to the side of
the fuel loading door (in the United States). In Canada, it
must extend 450 mm to the front and 200 mm to the side
of the unit.
r = =
(ft2)(hr)(°F)
(Btu)(in)
1
k
(Btu)(ft)
(ft2)(hr)(°F)
K =
k = = K x 12
(Btu)(in)
(ft2)(hr)(°F)
R = (ft2)(hr)(°F)
Btu
SSI30 Wood Insert
63D4004 9
Contact your local building authority for approved methods
of installation
1. This appliance requires a masonry or pre-manufactured
chimney listed to ULCS629 (Canada) and UL 103 HT
(USA) sized correctly.
2. If a masonry chimney is used it is advisable to have your
chimney inspected for cracks and check the general
condition before you install your unit. Re-lining may
be required to reduce flue diameter to the appropriate
functional size.
3. The chimney should extend at least 3' (914 mm) above
the highest point where it passes through the roof, and
at least 2' (610 mm) higher than any portion of a building
within 10' (3 m). Figure 5
4. The chimney connector shall not pass through an attic,
roof space, closet, concealed space, floor, ceiling, wall
or any partition of combustible construction.
5. The minimum overall height of your chimney should be
15' (5 m) from the floor.
6. Do not use makeshift compromises during
installation.
0 to 10’
2’ Min.
3’ Min.
0 to 10’
2’ Min.
3’ Min.
ST1012
2 3 10 rule
Reference Point ST1012
At the very least, inspect the chimney connector and
chimney at least once every two months during the heating
season to determine if a buildup of creosote or soot has
occurred. If a significant layer of creosote has accumulated
(1/8" (3 mm) or more], or if soot has accumulated, either
should be removed to reduce the risk of a chimney fire.
Failure to keep the chimney and connector system clean
can result in a serious chimney fire.
The conditions for a chimney fire develop as follows: When
wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other organic
vapors which combine with expelled moisture to form
creosote. The creosote vapors condense in the relatively
cool chimney flue of a slow burning fire. As a result
creosote residue accumulates on the flue lining. Creosote
is a flammable and, when ignited, make an extremely hot
fire within the flue system which can damage the chimney
and overheat adjacent combustible material.
To reduce the amount of creosote that may form, remember
to provide adequate air for combustion and to strive for
small, intense fires rather than large smoldering ones.
You can never be too safe. Contact your local fire authority
for information on what to do in the event of a chimney
fire, and have a clearly understood plan on how to handle
one.
Maintaining a clean chimney is important. Chimneys should
be inspected regularly for creosote buildup. A straight
chimney is easier to clean than one with 45 or 90 degree
bends. A bend requires the pipe to be removed for cleaning.
The insert baffle must be removed when cleaning the
chimney. Page 18. Chimney sweepings will build up on top
of baffle causing a blocked flue and/or a fire hazard.
Most factory made “Class A” steel chimneys have a layer
of insulation around the inner flue. This insulation keeps
the smoke warm and protects the surrounding structure
from the high flue temperatures. Because the insulation is
less dense than masonry, the inner steel liner warms up
more quickly than masonry chimney; this makes the steel
chimney support a good draft more quickly than masonry
does.
Because the chimney’s function is to keep the smoke
warm, it is best to locate it inside the house. This location
uses the house as insulation for the flue and allows some
radiant heat release form the flue into the home. Since an
interior chimney doesn’t continuously lose its heat to the
outdoors, less heat from the insert is required to get it warm
and keep it warm.
The flue size for a controlled-combustion appliance should
be based on the cross-sectional volume of the insert flue
outlet. In this case, more is definitely not better. Hot gases
lose heat through expansion; if a insert with a six-inch flue
collar (28 square inch area) is vented into a 10" x 10" flue,
the gases will expand to over three times their original
volume. As gases cool with expansion, draft strength
decreases. If the oversized flue is also outside the house,
the heat it absorbs will be conducted to the outdoor air and
the flue will remain relatively cool.
SSI30 Wood Insert
10 63D4004
It is common for a masonry flue to be oversized for the
insert. Such a chimney can take quite a while to warm up,
and the insert performance will likely be disappointing. The
best solution to an oversize flue problem is the installation
of an insulated steel chimney liner of the same diameter
as the appliance flue outlet. The liner keeps the exhaust
gas warm and the result is a stronger draft. An uninsulated
liner is a second choice—although the liner will keep the
exhaust restricted to its original volume, the air around the
liner will require time and heat energy to warm up.
Check your local codes. You may be required to install a
flue liner in any oversize masonry flue.
Although masonry is the traditional material used for
chimney construction, it can have distinct performance
disadvantages when used to vent a controlled combustion
wood insert. Masonry forms an effective “heat sink”—that
is, it absorbs and holds heat for long periods of time.
The large mass however, may take a long time to become
hot enough to sustain a strong draft. The larger the
chimney (in total mass) the longer it will take to warm up.
Cold masonry will actually cool exhaust gases enough
to diminish draft strength. This problem is worse if the
chimney is located outside the home or if the chimney
flue has a cross-sectional volume much larger than the
insert outlet.
Every bend in the flue will act as a brake on the exhaust
as it flows from the firebox to the chimney cap. The ideal
pipe and chimney layout is straight up from the insert
through completely straight chimney. Use this layout if at
all possible, as it will promote optimum insert performance
and simplify maintenance.
If the insertpipe must elbow to enter a chimney, locate
the elbow about midway between the inserttop and the
chimney thimble. This configuration lets the smoke speed
up before it must turn, keeps some pipe in the room for
heat transfer, and allows long-term flexibility for installing
a different appliance without relocating the thimble. There
should be no more than eight feet of single-wall insert pipe
between the insert and a chimney. Longer runs can cool
the smoke enough to cause draft and creosote problems.
Use double-wall insert pipe for longer runs.
Your insert requires a dedicated flue. Do not connect the
insert to a flue used by any other appliance. Chimney draft
is a natural form of energy and follows the path of least
resistance. If the insert is vented to a flue that also serves
open replace or another appliance, the draft will also pull
air through those avenues.
The additional airflow will lower the flue temperatures,
reduce draft strength and promote creosote development;
overall insert performance will suffer. The effect is similar to
that of a vacuum cleaner with a hole in the hose. In some
extreme instances, the other appliances can even impose
a negative draft and result in a dangerous draft reversal.
SSI30 Wood Insert
63D4004 11
The insert is extremely heavy. Do not attempt to
move it without assistance.
• Please read all instructions carefully before
beginning. To remove the insert from the pallet you
will need a 7/16" wrench or socket.
• If you are placing the insert on a raised hearth you
might consider moving the complete unit close to the
raised hearth to save some lifting later.
• Remove the two brackets on the front of the insert by
removing the four bolts (save the two bolts removed
from the front of the insert). Figure 6
ST1067
remove brackets
Bracket
ST1067
• The rear bracket is slipped over the wheel axel and
held in place with one (1) bolt. Figure 7
ST1068
Rear bracket
ST1068
• If your hearth is not level there are three leveling
points on the insert. One on each of the front corners
which are easily accessed by sliding the corner of the
insert just off the edge of the pallet. Figure 8
• If the rear of the insert needs to be adjusted you can
slide the rear wheel off the pallet and loosen the two
(2) bolts (1/2" wrench). Figure 9
ST1069
leg leveller
Leg Leveller
Rear Wheel
ST1069
ST1070
rear leveller
Loosen Bolts
to Level
Shipping
Pallet
ST1070
• The VCI30 is shipped with the power cord for the
blower on the right side. If you want to move it to the
left side now is the best time as you can access it
under the insert easily by sliding the insert just off the
edge of the pallet. Refer to Page 13 for instructions
on converting fan wire from left to right. Make sure
you secure the ground wire (green wire) to the side of
the insert using the star washer.
Do not attach the blower until the unit is installed in the
fireplace.
The Savannah insert has a removable flue collar to help
with tight installations. You should familiarize yourself with
it before you install your insert.
To remove the flue collar you will have to remove the sec-
ondary air tubes and the C-cast baffle plates. Figure 10
1. Use a Phillips head screw driver or your fingers to
remove the drywall screws that are hanging down next
to the secondary air tubes. These screws were for ship-
ping purposes only and can be discarded.
SSI30 Wood Insert
12 63D4004
2. To remove the tubes, start by removing the cotter pin
on the left end of each tube, then slide the tube to the
right until the tube can be pulled down and left, and
removed from the insert. Note that each tube is marked
with either M (middle) F (front) or R (rear). Be sure you
replace the tubes in their correct location to ensure your
insert burns at its optimal efficiency. Three new cotter
pins have been shipped with the insert.
3. After all three tubes have been removed you can
remove the two piece C-cast baffle. Be very careful not
to damage the baffle. Carefully lift up on the rear piece
and move it as far back as possible letting it sit on top
of the steel non-removable baffle. Next, lift up on the
front piece and move it to the right and allow the left side
to angle down into the firebox until it can be removed
through the door opening. You can now remove the rear
piece the same way. Figures 11 and 12.
ST1071
remove air tubes and baffle
Secondary
Air Tubes C-Cast Baffle
ST1071
ST1072
remove rear baffle
ST1072
ST1073
remove rear baffle
ST1073
4. Remove the bricks from the rear of the insert. This will
make turning the flue collar with the chimney liner much
easier. Figure 13
ST1074
rear firebrick
ST1074
5. The flue collar has two rotating cam locks that will
require the use of a hammer to unlock and lock. Figure
14 shows the direction the cams need to turn to lock and
unlock. The flue collar is made of cast iron and is fairly
heavy so you should use something such as a piece of
wood to support it. Once the flue collar has been lowered
into the firebox you can lower the chimney liner into the
collar and fasten it with screws. Figure 15. When putting
the flue collar with the liner back in place, make sure the
ceramic gasket is in place. Use only high temp ceramic
fiber gaskets available at your MHSC dealer.
Raise the flue collar
chimney assembly and support it in place. Carefully
hammer the cam locks over the flue collar alternating
from one side to the other until they are parallel to the
back of the insert.
6. Replace the C-cast baffle and tubes, remembering to
check each tube for the letter M, F or R to be sure you
replace them in the correct location. After the tubes are
in place check to see that the c-cast baffle is slid back
against the steel non- removable baffle as shown in
Figure 16. Replace the rear bricks.
SSI30 Wood Insert
63D4004 13
1
2
ST1075
c cast baffle
Non-removable Baffle
C-Cast Baffle
ST1075
ST1076
CAM LOCKS
OFF ON
ST1076
ST1077
attach chimney liner
Chimney Liner
ST1077
Flue
Collar
1. Remove ash lip and shroud by lifting straight up.
The ash lip and shroud are held in place by a keyhole
slot and bolt system. Lifting up on the ash lip allows the
bolt head to slip through the keyhole.
ST1078
remove ashlip & shroud
Ashlip and
Shroud
ST1078
ST1079
bolt and keyhole
Bolt Keyhole ST1079
2. Disconnect ground from side of insert and unplug spade
connectors from plug wire.
3. Feed wire through holes in side and front of insert. (Be
sure to leave it connected to the fan.) Push wire through
opposite side, reconnecting ground and plug wires.
ST1080
snapstat
Snapstat
ST1080
SSI30 Wood Insert
14 63D4004
1. Attach the wires as shown in Figure 20 making sure you push all connections together tightly
2. Insert the snapstat into its holder as shown in Figure 19, making sure that the connectors are
not touching the insert.
3. Use the two bolts saved from the front shipping bracket to secure the blower to the insert.
4. Make sure all wires are away from the insert front.
5. The ash lip and surround can now be installed by placing the keyhole cutouts over the bolt heads
shown in Figure 18.
White
Black
White White
Tan
White
Black
Green
Green
Black
Black
Tan
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
8
Detail View
9
On Off
Tan Tan
ST1081
SSI30 WIRING
To assemble the surround it is best to lay the three sec-
tions face down on a soft flat surface. The foam package
material works well for this.
Align the two pins on the top section with the holes on the
side pieces as shown in Figure 21. carefully slide the sec-
tions together. When moving the assembled surround it is
best to hold it by the sides and not the top.
ST1082
assemble surround
ST1082
SSI30 Wood Insert
63D4004 15
To install the surround on the insert, make sure the
ratcheting brackets are in their forward most position. Lift
the surround over the primary air control rod and set the
spring loaded washers over the cast ratchet brackets and
allow the threaded stud to slide into the notch as shown
in Figure 22.
Once both sides are securely attached to the ratchet brack-
ets gently start sliding the surround back towards the wall
making sure to keep both sides even. Pushing directly in
front of the brackets will help keep the surround straight.
To remove the surround from the insert, simply lift the
surround straight up until it becomes free of the brackets.
Remember to slide the brackets to their forward most posi-
tion before trying to install the surround again.
ST1083
attach surround
St1083
The best installation is the complete relining of the chimney
system using a 6" listed stainless steel liner. The liner must
be attached to the insert and to each section of the liner
with the crimped (male) end pointing toward the insert.
All connections should be secured with a minimum of 3
screws, this includes the flue collar.
The next type of installation is a direct connection to the
first flue liner in accordance with the requirements of the
NFPA 211. Secure the fireplace damper in the open posi-
tion or remove it. Seal the area around the starter pipe
and the damper opening with high temp sealant and or
sheet metal.
The chimney should be inspected for cracks, loose mortar
and any other signs of deterioration or blockage. Always
check with your local building code agency before you
begin your installation to ensure compliance with local
codes, including the need for permits and any follow up
inspections.
ST1084
masonry install
Flue Tile
Full Listed Liner Option
Mantel
Air-Tight Face Seal
Direct Connect
Seal Option
Damper Area
Minimum Starter
Pipe Option
ST1084
Whether installed in a masonry or heat -circulating fire-
place, this fireplace insert must be installed with a con-
tinuous chimney liner of 6" (152 mm) diameter extending
from the fireplace insert to the top of the chimney. The
chimney liner must conform to the Class 3 requirements
of CAN/ULC-S635, Standard for Lining Systems for
Existing Masonry or Factory-Built Chimneys and Vents,
or CAN/ULC-S640, Standard for Lining Systems for New
Masonry Chimneys.
• Do not remove bricks or mortar from fireplace to accom-
modate insert.
• The permanent metal warning label provided must be
affixed to the back of the fireplace with screws or nails,
in a location readily visible should the fireplace insert be
removed. This label states that the fireplace may have
been altered to accommodate the insert, and must be
returned to original condition for use as a conventional
fireplace.
Make sure the factory built fireplace is large enough for your
insert. Do not modify the fireplace. (Exceptions: removal
of the damper, removal of the smoke shelf or baffle, grate,
doors and or screens.) The metal label supplied with your
SSI30 Wood Insert
16 63D4004
insert be attached to the back of the fireplace with
screws or nails. This label states that the fireplace may
have been altered to accommodate the insert, and must
be returned to original condition for use as a conventional
fireplace.
A complete chimney reline is required in most installations.
Always check with the fireplace manufacturer. If a complete
reline is required, the liner must be attached directly to the
flue collar and run all the way to the chimney cap. The liner
must meet type HT requirements (2100°F) per UL 1777. To
prevent room air from escaping up the chimney cavity, seal
around the liner with high temp insulation or sheet metal.
Offset flue collars are available in two sizes (3" and 6")
from your MHSC dealer for your Savannah insert. When
installing an offset flue collar it is important that the offset
adapter be secured with at least three screws into the
insert flue collar and three screws into the chimney liner.
Make sure that the offset flue collar is installed inside of the
insert flue collar and the chimney liner is installed inside
the offset adapter. Figure 24
As with all installations, final approval of this installation
type is contingent upon the authority having jurisdiction
in your area.
ST1085
offset flue collar
ST1085
To reduce the amount of creosote that may form, remember
to provide adequate air for combustion and to strive for
small, intense fires rather than large smoldering ones. You
can never be too safe. Contact your local fire authority for
information on what to do in the event of a chimney fire, and
have a clearly understood plan on how to handle one.
Do not use a grate or elevate fire. Build wood fire directly
on firebrick. When the insert is used for the first time the
solvents in the paint will smoke off.
This heater is designed to burn natural wood only. Higher
efficiencies and lower emissions generally result when
burning air dried seasoned hardwoods, as compared to
softwoods or to green or freshly cut hardwoods. Only use
dry seasoned wood. Green wood, besides burning at only
60 percent of the fuel value of dry wood, deposits creosote
on the inside of your insert and along the chimney. This
can cause an extreme danger of chimney fire. To be called
“seasoned,” wood must be dried for a year. Regardless of
whether the wood is green or seasoned, it should be stored
in a well-sheltered ventilated area to allow proper drying
during the year to come. Wood should be stored beyond
recommended clearance from combustibles.
Even the best insert installation will not perform well with
poor fuel. If available, always use hardwood that has been
air-dried (seasoned) 12-18 months. Softwood burns more
rapidly than hardwood and has a high pitch content that
can result in creosote. Decayed wood of any type has little
heat value and should not be used.
Unseasoned (green) wood has a high moisture content.
Much of its heat value will be used to evaporate moisture
before the wood can burn. This significantly reduces the
amount of energy available to warm your home, as well
as the intensity of the fire and temperature of the exhaust
gas. Incomplete combustion and cool flue temperatures
promote creosote formation and weak draft.
You can judge the moisture content of wood by its
appearance and weight or use a commercially available
moisture meter for exact measurement. Unseasoned wood
will be a third heavier than dry wood. Also look for cracks
(checking) in the ends of the log that result from contraction
as the wood dries. The longer and wider the cracks are,
the dryer the wood is.
Creosote is a by-product of low-temperature insert
operation, weak draft or both. It is a tar that results when
unburned gases condense inside the flue system at
temperatures below 290 degrees F. Creosote is volatile
and can generate a chimney fire. All of the installation
characteristics that adversely affect chimney draft also
SSI30 Wood Insert
63D4004 17
promote creosote condensation. Consequently, you
can minimize creosote accumulation with an effective
chimney design and the use of operational techniques that
encourage good draft and complete combustion.
Inspect your chimney frequently and clean it whenever
accumulation exceeds 1/4".
When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other
organic vapors. These combine with moisture to form
creosote. Creosote vapors condense in the relatively cool
chimney flue of a slow burning fire. As a result, creosote
residue accumulates on the flue lining. When ignited,
this creosote makes an extremely hot fire. The chimney
should be inspected regularly during the heating season
to determine if a creosote build-up has accumulated. If this
is the case, the creosote should be removed to reduce the
risk of chimney fire.
1. Burn with air control open for several minutes at numer-
ous intervals throughout the day during the heating
season, being careful not to over-fire unit. This removes
the slight film of creosote accumulated during low burn
periods.
2. Burn insert with draft control wide open for several
minutes every time you apply fresh wood. This allows
wood to achieve the charcoal stage faster and burns
wood vapors which might otherwise be deposited within
the systems.
3. BURN ONLY SEASONED WOOD. Avoid burning wet
or green wood. Seasoned wood has been dried for at
least one year.
4. A small hot fire is preferable to a large smoldering one
that can deposit creosote within the system.
5. Establish a routine for the fuel, wood burner and firing
technique. Check daily for creosote build-up until expe-
rience shows how often you need to clean to be safe.
Be aware that the hotter the fire, the less creosote
is deposited and weekly cleaning may be necessary
in mild weather even though monthly cleaning may
be enough in the coldest months. Contact your local
municipal authority for information on how to handle a
chimney fire. Have a clearly understood plan to handle
a chimney fire.
Treated wood, solvents, trash, coal,
garbage, cardboard, colored paper
Your insert has been painted with the highest quality insert
paint and has special break-in procedures. The heat
generated by the normal operation of the insert, will serve
to harden the paint.
Good draft also depends on a supply of air to the insert; a
chimney can’t pull in more air than is available to it. Sluggish
draft results when a house is tight enough to prevent the
ready flow of air to the insert, or by competition between
the insert and other equipment that sends indoor air out-
side - especially power-driven equipment like range hoods,
exhaust fans, clothes dryers, etc. If the chimney draws well
with all other equipment turned off (or sealed, in the case
of fireplaces and/or other inserts), then you simply need
to be careful with timing the use of the other equipment.
Note that negative pressure resulting in inadequate indoor
combustion air may trigger nearby smoke detectors. If
you need to crack a nearby window or door to enable the
chimney to draw well, that’s a sign that you should install
an outside-air intake to bring combustion air directly to the
insert. MHSC dealers carry adapters to attach to the insert
to connect an air duct for outdoor combustion air.
during the first three times the
insert is used. The paint on the insert will give off smoke,
carbon dioxide and an odor. Without adequate ventilation,
concentrations of smoke could irritate, or be upsetting.
if necessary.
After the initial burns the paint will be cured and there
should be no more smoke. Each of the initial burns should
be conducted as follows:
A) The first two burns should be at approximately 250° F
(120° C) for approximately 20 minutes.
B) The third burn should be between 500° F and 700° F
(260° to 370° C) for at least 45 minutes. The important
fact is the paint should be cured slowly. Avoid hot fires
during the curing process.
The best way to achieve the first burn is with kindling fires.
Prolong the fires as needed by adding more kindling.
During the curing process the paint may be gummy. Once
cured the paint will remain hard. to see flat
spots on painted surfaces of the insert. The flat spots on
the paint surface indicate the hotter surfaces of the insert,
and is caused by the heat radiating through the paint.
caused by friction from
the packaging materials, will disappear during the curing
of the insert.
1. Remember to ventilate well.
2. Allow the insert to cure before burning for long periods
at high temperatures.
SSI30 Wood Insert
18 63D4004
3. Flat spots on the painted surfaces are normal.
4. Shiny spots on the paint surface before burning is
normal.
5. Call your dealer if you have any questions.
1. Open inlet air control fully.
2. Place a small amount of crumpled paper in the insert.
3. Cover the paper with a generous amount of kindling
wood in a teepee fashion and a few small pieces of
wood.
4. Ignite the paper and close door. If fire dies down sub-
stantially, open door slightly.
5. Add larger pieces of wood as the fire progresses being
careful not to overload. Do not fill firebox beyond fire-
brick area. An ideal coal bed of 1" (25 mm) to 2" (50
mm) should be established to achieve optimum perfor-
mance.
6. This unit is designed to function most effectively when
air is allowed to circulate to all areas of the firebox. An
ideal means of achieving this is to rake a slight (1"
to 2" wide) trough in the center of the coal bed from
front to back prior to loading the fuel.
7. Once fuel has been loaded, close door and open air
inlet control fully until fire is well established (approx.
10 minutes) being careful not to over fire.
8. Re-adjust air inlet control to desired burn rate. If exces-
sive smoke fills firebox, open air inlet control slightly until
flames resume and wood is sufficiently ignited. A basic
rule of thumb is “closed – low,” “half way-medium,” and
“fully open – high.”
9. When refueling, adjust air control to the fully open posi-
tion. When fire brightens, slowly and carefully open the
door. This procedure will prevent gases from igniting
causing smoke and flame spillage.
10.Add fuel being careful not to overload.
11. Close doors.
ST1087
remove baffle
ST1087
To remove the tubes you will start by removing the cotter
pin on the left end of each tube, then slide the tube to the
right until the tube can be pulled down and left and removed
from the insert. Note that each tube is marked with either
M, for middle F, for front or R for rear, be sure you replace
the tubes in there right location to insure you insert burns
at it best efficiency. 3 new cotter pins have been shipped
with the insert.
After all 3 tubes have been removed you can remove the 2
piece c-cast baffle, be very careful not to damage the baffle,
carefully lift up on the rear piece and move it as far back
as possible letting it set on top of the steel non-removable
baffle. Next lift up on the front piece and move it to the
right and allow the left side to angle down into the firebox
until it can be removed thru the door opening. You can now
remove the rear piece the same way. NOTE: See Figures
11 and 12 on Page 12 for more information.
To remove firebrick, lift up from bottom and rotate outward.
Page 12, Figure 13
The Savannah SSI30 insert has a removable baffle which
allows the chimney to be cleaned without removing the
insert from the fireplace.
To remove the rear of the baffle, reach in through the door
and lift up on the rear half of the baffle and, very carefully
with your fingers, walk the rear half of the baffle up and
onto of the front half of the baffle. Make sure you slide it
far enough forward so the chimney brush will not damage
it when cleaning. Figure 26. There is no need to remove
the secondary air tubes for cleaning.
Low High
ST1086
air control
ST1086
SSI30 Wood Insert
63D4004 19
ST1088
replace baffle
ST1088
After the chimney has been cleaned clean out the firebox
and carefully replace the rear half of the baffle. Check to
see that both pieces of the baffle are down on the steel
baffle and pushed all the way to the rear of the firebox.
Figure 27
Wear safety glasses and gloves when performing
any maintenance task.
The following steps should be followed for glass gasket
replacement:
1. Ensure appliance is not in operation and is thoroughly
cooled
2. Remove door and place on a protected flat surface.
3. Remove screws and glass clips.
4. Lift glass out.
5. Remove old gasket and clean or replace glass.
6. Sand gasket groove and wipe clean (rubbing alcohol
works well).
7. Put a thin film of gasket cement on the door.
8. Replace new gasket starting at the top center of the
door.
9. Trim to length and butt ends together. Remove all
excess cement.
10.Replace glass in door, being sure not to over-tighten
screws and clips.
The following steps should be followed for door gasket
replacement:
1. Ensure appliance is not in operation and is thoroughly
cooled.
2. Remove door and place on a protected flat surface.
3. Remove old door gasket and clean channel.
4. Sand gasket groove and wipe clean (rubbing alcohol
works well).
5. Using an approved high temperature gasket cement,
apply a thin coat in bottom of channel.
6. Starting at top center of door, work into channel around
door unit, trim to length and butt ends.
7. Close door and allow three to four hours for cement to
set before restarting appliance.
Ashes should be placed in a metal container with a tight-
fitting lid. The closed container of ashes should be placed
on a non-combustible floor or on the ground, well away
from all combustible materials, pending final disposal. If the
ashes are disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise locally
dispersed, they should be retained in the closed container
until all cinders have thoroughly cooled. Other waste should
not be placed in the ash container.
WARNING
Use of glass or other components from alternative sources
may cause a safety hazard and may void your warranty.
The following use and safety tips should be observed:
1. Inspect the glass regularly for cracks and breaks. If you
detect a crack or break, extinguish the fire immediately,
and contact your dealer for replacement.
2. Do not slam door or otherwise impact the glass. When
closing doors, make sure that logs or other objects do
not protrude to impact the glass.
3. Do not clean the glass with materials which may scratch
(or otherwise damage) the glass. Scratches on the
glass can develop into cracks or breaks.
4. Never attempt to clean the glass while unit is hot. Light
deposits are normal. Heavier deposits may be removed
with the use of a readily available oven cleaner.
5. Never put substances which can ignite explosively in
the unit since even small explosions in confined areas
can blow out the glass.
6. This unit has an air wash system designed to reduce
deposits on glass.
After extensive use, the gasket material which provides
glass and door seal may need to be replaced if it fails
to sustain its resilience. Inspect glass and door seal
periodically to ensure proper seal: if gaskets become
frayed or worn, replace immediately. Contact your dealer
for approved replacement parts. Refer to replacement parts
list in this manual.
SSI30 Wood Insert
20 63D4004
2. Blower Cord 26D0619
3. Blower Thermo Disc 49D0130
4. Secondary Air Tube, Middle 63D0026
5. Secondary Air Tube, Rear 63D0028
6. Leveler Bolt 63D0065
7. Secondary Air Tube, Front 63D0112
8. Spring Handle 63D0185
9. C-Cast Assembly 63D2004
10. Turn Tight Cast Iron 63D2032
11. Slider 63D2040
12. Rear Wheel Assy. 63D2072
13. Blower Assy. 63D2075
14. Cast Door Assy, Complete 63D2077
15. Surround Clamp, Right 63D2081
16. Surround Clamp, Left 63D2082
17. Glass Door Handle Assy. 63D2084
13
3
18
17
14
25
24
8
12
2
16 21
20
27
19
15
11
1
26 28
10
23
22
6
9
5
4
7
203061
VSI30 parts
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