Minwax TV STAND User manual

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WOODWORKS: ADVANCED PROJECT 2008-2009
T V STAND
For advanced woodworkers, this project is a great exercise in typical cabinet construction. The case, face-frame, doors and drawer are great
small-scale samples of how kitchen cabinets and many other kinds of freestanding cabinets are typically built. So once you learn these techniques,
you’ll be able to apply them to many other kinds of projects involving casework. Besides the basics of making dead-accurate panel cuts, rabbets
and dadoes on the table saw, this project also requires precision drilling, radius cuts, and making and installing drawers, face-frames and doors
with solid-wood panels. And when it’s all done, you’ll learn more about applying and using stains and finishes to protect the wood and keep it
looking beautiful.

CONTINUED - WOODWORKS: ADVANCED PROJECT 2008-2009 TV STAND
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TOOLS REQUIRED
Hand Tools
Bar clamps
Wood or rubber mallet
Power Tools
Table saw
Band saw or jigsaw
Jointer
Biscuit joiner
Shaper or table-mounted router
Table-mounted belt sander
Random-orbit sander
Miscellaneous
– Pencil
– Tape measure
– Safety glasses
– Carpenter’s glue
– 120-, 150- and 220-grit sandpaper
– Clean, lint-free cloths
– Respirator
– Gloves for finishing
– Mineral spirits (for oil-based stains
and finishes)
– Water-filled metal container with
tight-fitting lid (for oil-based stains
and finishes)
– Minwax®Wood Finish™Stain Brush
or other good quality, natural-bristle
brush (for oil-based stains and
finishes)
Overall dimensions:
Item Description Size & Quantity Material
A Case sides 14-1/4" x 18", 2 pcs. 3/4" plywood
B Case bottom 14" x 29", 1 pc. 3/4" plywood
C Case rails 4" x 29", 2pcs. 3/4" plywood
D Face-frame rail, top 1-1/2" x 27", 1 pc. red oak
E Face-frame rail, bottom 2-1/2" x 27", 1 pc. red oak
F Face-frame stiles 1-1/2" x 18", 1 pc. red oak
G Door rails 1-1/2" x 11-11/16", 4 pcs. red oak
H Door stiles 1-1/2" x 15", 4 pcs. red oak
I Door panels 11-9/16" x 12-5/8", 2 pcs. red oak
J Top 14" x 28", 1 pc. 3/4" plywood
K End bands 2" x 14", 2 pcs. red oak
L Front band 4" x 32", 1 pc. red oak
M Adjustable shelf 13" x 28-3/8", 1 pc. 3/4" plywood
N Shelf band 3/4" x 28-3/8", 1 pc. red oak
O Filler strip 2" x 14", 2 pcs. red oak
P Drawer sides 3" x 14", 2 pcs. red oak
Q Drawer front and back 3" x 25-1/8", 2 pcs. red oak
R Drawer bottom 12-3/4" x 25-3/8", 1 pc. 1/4" plywood
S Cabinet back 1/4" plywood
WOOD FINISHING PRODUCTS
Recommended Finish
Prep: Minwax®Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner
Stain: Minwax®Wood Finish™English Chestnut
Finish: Minwax®Fast-Drying Polyurethane semi-gloss or
Minwax®Clear Brushing Lacquer semi-gloss
Alternate Finish
Prep: Minwax®Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner
Finish: Minwax®Polyshades®Classic Black or
Honey Pine
CUTTING LIST
SHOPPING LIST
Wood Recommendation: Oak
Alternate wood: Maple
3/4" red oak plywood, 1/2 sheet
1x6 red oak, 18 lineal feet
1/4" birch or maple plywood, 1/2 sheet
Hardware
1-1/4" pocket screws, 8
14" full-extension drawer glides, 2
1/2" overlay partial wrap face-frame hinges, 2 pair

BEFORE YOU BEGIN
Good craftsmanship begins and ends with good work habits, so make
the following steps part of your routine workshop practice. If you have
any doubts or questions about how to proceed with a project, always
discuss them with your shop instructor.
• Carefully and fully review plans and instructions before putting a
tool to the project lumber.
• Work sensibly and safely. Wear safety goggles when doing work
that creates flying chips and sawdust; wear the appropriate
respirator whenever making sawdust or working with thinners
or other solvents.
• At the end of every work session, clean up your shop area and
put away all portable tools.
CUTTING AND ASSEMBLY
PROCEDURE
1. Before cutting the plywood components, lay out all the pieces on
a scaled sketch in order to minimize waste. When you have the puzzle
figured out, cut all the plywood pieces–A, B, C, J, M–to their
finished size.
2. Set up a dado head in the table saw. Cut the rabbet at the top of each
side (A) and the dado near the bottom. Both are 3/4" wide x 1/4" deep. The
bottom of the dado is 1-3/4" from the bottom edge of the plywood (Fig. 1).
3. Cut a 3/8"-wide x 1/4"-deep rabbet along the rear edges of A, B and
C to receive the back.
4. Drill the adjustable shelf holes inside the case, located 1” apart as
shown in Figure 1.
5. Lay out, cut and sand the curve in the bottom of the case sides.
Use the template in Grid 3. The curve starts 2" in from the back,
1-1/4" in from the front and is 1-3/4" high.
6. After sanding the interior faces of the case pieces, glue and assemble
the case, making sure it’s perfectly square after all the clamps are in place.
7. Rough-cut face-frame pieces–D, E, F– and then mill them to their
finished size. A jointer can both work the pieces down to their required
sizes while also making all edges smooth and dead-square.
8. Drill screw pockets in the ends of the face-frame rails, D and E. Cut
the curve in the bottom of the lower rail, using the template shown in
Grid 2. The curve originates 1/2" in from the ends and is 1-3/4" high.
9. Assemble the face-frame with glue and pocket screws. Then glue and
clamp the assembled face-frame to the front of the case.
10. Cut the plywood for the top–J–to the correct length, but leave it at
least 1" too wide. Cut the end bands–K–about an inch longer than their
required dimension. Prep them and the field top for joining by cutting
slots for three biscuits on each end. Also cut three slots into the front
edge and into the front band (L).
11. Glue the end bands to the top. The end bands can project past
only one edge, but both bands must be short of the other edge so there
is one straight edge to go against the rip fence in the next step.
12. Allow the end band glue to dry. Set the rip fence on the table saw to
a dimension greater than the finished depth of the top, but small enough
to cut through both end bands and the edge of the top. Rip the top.
13. Set the rip fence to the finished width of the top. Put the edge cut
in the previous step against the fence and make the final cut. This will
make the end bands perfectly flush with the front and back edges of
the top.
14. Cut the front band–L–to finished length, but leave it wider than the
finished width.
15. Lay out, cut and sand the curve in the front band, using the
template in Grid 1. The front band is 4" wide at the center, 2" wide
at each end.
16. Cut biscuit slots into the straight edge of the front band, aligned
with the slots cut into the front edge of the top. Cut slots into the front
ends of each end band (K) and corresponding slots into straight edge
of L. Glue and clamp the front band to the top. Allow glue to dry.
17. Sand the bands and top to create a perfectly smooth surface, while
being very careful not to oversand; it’s easy to sand through the thin
plywood veneer.
18. Round over the top and bottom corners of the top with router
fitted with a 1/4" roundover bit.
19. Carefully measure the opening in the face-frame and calculate the
door rail and stile sizes. The doors should be 1" taller than the opening.
Plan for a gap of 3/32" between the two doors.
20. Cut the door rails and stiles–G and H–to size and machine them
for door joinery. Start by cutting 9/32"-wide x 3/8"-deep grooves along
the centers of the inside edges to receive the panels. The best way to
center a groove is to run the piece over a dado head, flip the piece end
for end and run it through again. Use scrap to get the proper setup of
the table saw fence and dado height.
21. Cut 9/32" x 11/32" tongues into the ends of the rails. The best way
to center the tongues is to run both sides of the pieces over the dado
head set at a height that produces a 9/32"-thick tongue. Use scrap to
make test cuts and finalize the height of the dado head.
22. Cut the material for the door panels and join them with biscuits
and glue.
23. Dry assemble the door frames and carefully measure the inside
opening. Add 1/2" to both dimensions to get the finished size of
the panels.
24. Cut the panels to size. Then raise the panels by running the edges
through a router or shaper table fitted with a panel-raising cutter. The
cuts should produce panel edges that are no more than 1/4" thick.
Test how they fit into the grooves of the door-frame pieces. When the
panels are right, finish-sand them.
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CONTINUED - WOODWORKS: ADVANCED PROJECT 2008-2009 TV STAND

25. Glue the door frames together. Be very careful not to get any glue
on the panels, which would limit their ability to “float.” It’s best to stain
the panels before the door is assembled.
26. Cut a piece of plywood for the adjustable shelf, M. At this stage it
should be 1" too wide and too long. Also cut the shelf band–N–to the
correct width, but leave it about 1" too long.
27. Prep the shelf and band for biscuit joining then glue the band to
the front edge. The band should project past both ends of the plywood.
Allow the glue to dry.
28. With the band set against the rip fence, cut the shelf to
finished width.
29. Crosscut one end of the shelf square, cutting through both the
band and the shelf. Then cut the shelf to finished length.
30. Machine filler strips–P–to go against the inside of the case behind
the face-frame to receive the drawer glides. The face of the filler strips
must be flush with the inside edge of the face-frame stiles. Glue the
filler strips in place.
31. Cut the drawer sides–Q–to their finished width and length. Cut
the front and back–R–to width but leave them a little long.
32. Cut 1/4"-deep x 3/4"-wide rabbets across the ends of the sides, on
the inside faces.
33. Calculate the length of the drawer front and back. Follow the
instructions that came with your drawer slides. Typically, the finished
drawer can be up to 1-1/16" smaller than the opening it is fitting into.
34. Cut the front and back pieces to the finished length. Cut a 1/4" slot
in all four drawer pieces to receive the bottom, as shown in Figure 2.
35. Dry assemble the drawer sides, front and back, and measure the
inside dimensions. Add 7/16" to both dimensions to determine the size
of the drawer bottom, S. Cut the bottom to size.
36. Sand the interior faces of all drawer parts. Glue the drawer
together, being very careful that it’s perfectly square when clamped.
37. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions and screw the drawer slides
to the case and drawer. Assure the drawer operates properly. Adjust as
needed. Then remove the slides from both the case and drawer in
preparation for finishing.
38. Screw the top to the case. The top should be even with the back
and centered left and right.
39. Fasten the hinges to the doors. Locate the bottom hinge so it
doesn’t interfere with the drawer slides.
40. Fasten the hinges to the face-frame. Adjust as needed so the doors
operate properly. Drill the doors for pulls. Before finishing, remove
the hinges.
41. Cut and install the back–T–with glue and 4d finish nails.
STAINING AND FINISHING
WWooooddwwoorrkkeerr’’ssTTiipp::Though you may be tempted to cut short
your sanding, preparation and application time, don’t do it. These
tasks are very important steps in obtaining a high-quality finish.
Remember, it is the finish, just as much as the fit and smoothness
of the parts that will have great bearing on how people judge
your craftsmanship. To ensure an excellent result, follow the
steps listed in this section and also the instructions the finish
manufacturer puts on its products.
FINISHING TIPS
• Test the stains and finishes you are planning to use on scraps of
wood. On the back of the scrap, mark the stain/finish combination
and the type of wood. Allow all samples to dry thoroughly before
making your final finish selection. Save your samples for quick
reference on future projects.
• All stains and finishes must be allowed to dry thoroughly between
coats. Remember that drying times can vary due to humidity and
other climatic conditions.
• If you have some leftover stain or finish, wipe the can rim so that
stain or finish in the rim won’t dry out and prevent the lid from
forming a tight seal.
• Brushes used for oil-based finishes must be cleaned with
mineral spirits.
42. Finish-sand any remaining rough spots with 220-grit paper. Dust
off the piece and wipe it carefully with a clean, lint-free cloth lightly
dampened with mineral spirits.
Recommended Finish
43. Apply the Minwax®Wood Finish™you’ve chosen using a natural-
bristle brush and a clean, lint-free cloth following the directions on the
can. The brush will help you get the stain into the inside corners. Allow
the Wood Finish™ to set for about 5 to 15 minutes, then wipe off any
excess. To achieve a deeper color, you may apply a second coat after
4-6 hours, repeating the application directions for the first coat. Allow
the stain to dry for 24 hours before applying the protective clear finish.
Choose either Minwax®Fast-Drying Polyurethane or Minwax®Clear
Brushing Lacquer but not both.
WWooooddwwoorrkkeerr’’ssTTiipp::When wiping off stain, make certain that
your last wipe with the cloth goes with the grain of the wood. This
way, any stain you might miss during wipe-off will be visually
minimized by the wood grain.
Applying Fast-Drying Polyurethane
44. Apply Minwax®Fast-Drying Polyurethane following the directions
on the can. Use a good quality, natural-bristle brush. Allow the first coat
to dry overnight.
45. The next day, sand all surfaces lightly with 220-grit or finer
sandpaper using with-the-grain strokes. Dust off and wipe all
surfaces with a cloth lightly dampened with mineral spirits. Apply a
second coat of polyurethane and set the piece aside to cure overnight.
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CONTINUED - WOODWORKS: ADVANCED PROJECT 2008-2009 TV STAND

46. The following day, sand all surfaces lightly with 220-grit sandpaper.
Dust off and wipe the piece with a cloth lightly dampened with mineral
spirits and apply the third and final coat of polyurethane.
Applying Clear Brushing Lacquer
47. Stir Minwax®Clear Brushing Lacquer well before and during
use to rotate the product from the bottom to the top of the can.
NEVER SHAKE.
48. Apply a coat of lacquer using a high-quality natural- or synthetic-
bristle brush. Apply sufficient lacquer to seal open joints, edges and
end grain.
49. Let the first coat dry at least 2 hours, then apply a second coat.
50. Apply a third coat, repeating the steps above for each coat. Apply a
fourth coat, if desired.
51. After the final coat, allow at least 24 hours before using.
Alternate Finish
52. Apply Minwax®Polyshades®following the directions on the can. Use
a good quality, natural-bristle brush suitable for use with polyurethane.
Stir the can contents thoroughly before starting and periodically repeat
stirring during your work session. Allow the first coat to dry overnight.
53. The next day, sand all surfaces lightly with 220-grit sandpaper or
very fine (000) steel wool using with-the-grain strokes. Dust off and
wipe all surfaces with a cloth dampened with mineral spirits. Apply a
second coat of Polyshades®and set the rack aside to cure overnight.
To achieve a deeper color, you may apply a third coat after 4-6 hours,
repeating the application directions. Allow the finish to cure for several
days before using the stand.
WWooooddwwoorrkkeerr’’ssTTiipp::If you achieve the desired color on the first
or second coats of Polyshades®, apply a clear coat of Minwax®
Fast-Drying Polyurethane or Minwax®Wipe-On Poly for added
protection.
54. When the staining and finishing is complete and the topcoat is
cured, install the doors, knobs and drawer.
PRODUCT SAFETY
For your safety and the safety of those you work with, always read the
safety warnings, which manufacturers print on their labels, and follow
them to the letter.
WARNING! Removal of old paint by sanding, scraping or other means
may generate dust or fumes that contain lead. Exposure to lead dust or
fumes may cause brain damage or other adverse health effects, espe-
cially in children or pregnant women. Controlling exposure to lead or
other hazardous substances requires the use of proper protective
equipment, such as properly fitted respirator (NIOSH approved) and
proper containment and cleanup. For more information, call the
National Lead Information Center at 1-800-424-LEAD (in U.S.) or
contact your local health authority.
DANGER: Rags, steel wool, other waste soaked with oil-based stains
and clear finishes, and sanding residue may spontaneously catch fire if
improperly discarded. Immediately place rags, steel wool, other waste
soaked with this product, and sanding residue in a sealed, water-filled
metal container. Dispose of in accordance with local fire regulations.
When using oil-based wood finishing products:
CAUTIONS: CONTAINS ALIPHATIC HYDROCARBONS.
Contents are COMBUSTIBLE. Keep away from heat and open flame.
VAPOR HARMFUL. Use only with adequate ventilation. To avoid over-
exposure, open windows and doors or use other means to ensure fresh
air entry during application and drying. If you experience eye watering,
headaches, or dizziness, increase fresh air, or wear respiratory protec-
tion (NIOSH approved), or leave the area. Avoid contact with eyes and
skin. Wash hands after using. Keep container closed when not in use.
Do not transfer contents to other containers for storage.
FIRST AID: In case of eye contact, flush thoroughly with large
amounts of water for 15 minutes and get medical attention. For skin
contact, wash thoroughly with soap and water. In case of respiratory
difficulty, provide fresh air and call physician. If swallowed, call Poison
Control Center, hospital emergency room, or physician immediately.
DELAYED EFFECTS FROM LONG-TERM OVEREXPOSURE.
Contains solvents which can cause permanent brain and nervous
system damage. Intentional misuse by deliberately concentrating
and inhaling contents may be harmful or fatal.
WARNING: This product contains a chemical known to the State of
California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive
harm. DO NOT TAKE INTERNALLY. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF
CHILDREN. CONFORMS TO ASTM D-4326. Contact a physician for
more health information.
When using water-based wood finishing products:
CAUTIONS: Use Only With Adequate Ventilation. To avoid overexpo-
sure, open windows and doors or use other means to ensure fresh air
entry during application and drying. If you experience eye watering,
headaches, or dizziness, increase fresh air, or wear respiratory protec-
tion (NIOSH approved), or leave the area. Avoid contact with eyes and
skin. Wash hands after using. Keep container closed when not in use.
Do not transfer contents to other containers for storage.
FIRST AID: In case of eye contact, flush thoroughly with large
amounts of water. Get medical attention if irritation persists.
If swallowed, get medical attention immediately.
WARNING: This product contains a chemical known to the State of
California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm.
DO NOT TAKE INTERNALLY. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.
CONFORMS TO ASTM D-4326. Contact a physician for more health
information.
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CONTINUED - WOODWORKS: ADVANCED PROJECT 2008-2009 TV STAND
FIG 1.
A
A
B
C
C
D
E
F
F
G
G
G
G
H
H
H
H
R
P
O
Q
Q
R
MN
S
I
I
J
K
K
L
1/2"
11/4"
2"
13/4"

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CONTINUED - WOODWORKS: ADVANCED PROJECT 2008-2009 TV STAND
GRID 1.
4"
2"
32"
L
GRID 2.
26"
21/2"
1/2"13/4"
GRID 3.
13/4"
11"