Mod Wave User manual

1Copyright © 2014 by modkitsdiy.com
Use these instructions to learn:
How to build a stand-alone tube reverb unit.
How to prepare shielded wire.
How to make vintage style RCA cables.
The Wave is a versatile stand-alone, tube driven spring reverb unit. It can be used in front of your guitar amp
or as a line-level, analog reverb effect for the recording studio. Two controls allow you to serve up a wide
range of wetness, from just a touch to over the top psychedelia. The "dwell" control adjusts the input signal
level driving the tank and the "reverb" control adjusts the level of output reverberations from the tank.
The Wave (K-MOD103)
www.modkitsdiy.com
Features
Rack Mountable - requires 3U of rack space
Line Level RCA connections - (1) Phono In and (2) paralleled Phono Outs
Footswitch Jack - cuts signal to the reverb tank input only, allowing the last reverberations to decay fully.
(Use a standard one button latching footswitch box with a mono ¼" plug).
Reverb Switch - provides an instantaneous cut of the reverb signal before and after the tank.
INOUT
POWER
ON
OFF
ON
OFF
DWELL REVERB REVERB
SWITCH
GUITAR
OUT
GUITAR
IN
Rear Panel
1A
FAST BLO
120VAC
PHONO
IN
PHONO
OUT (1)
PHONO
OUT (2) FOOT
SWITCH
Please note, there are no labels for this kit. The controls, switches and connectors have
only been labeled on this drawing to indicate their function.

TABLE OF CONTENTS
Safety ……..………..........................................................................................................................................3
Soldering Tips…..………....................................................................................................................................4
Wiring Tips …...……........................................................................................................................................5
Hardware Fastening Tip……………................................................................................................................ 6
Step by Step Assembly
Section 1 – Mounting of Top Components
Section 2 – Mounting of Rear Components
…….............................................................................6
…….............................................................................9
Section 3 – Mounting of Front Components ……...........................................................................10
Section 4 – Making Wire Connections …..……...........................................................................11
Section 5 – Mounting Electronic Components ...........................................................................16
Section 6 – Assemble and Fasten the Cover Plate ......................................................................18
Section 7 – Make and Connect the RCA Cables .........................................................................19
Section 8 – Finishing Up …………………….............................................................................20
Step 1 – File the chassis holes (p. 6)
Step 2 – Mount the rubber grommets (p. 7)
Step 3 – Mount the 9 pin miniature tube sockets and shields (p. 7)
Step 4 – Mount the tank in & out phono jacks (p. 8)
Step 5 – Mount the output transformer “TR2" (p. 8)
Step 6 – Mount the power transformer “TR1” (p. 8)
Step 7 – Mount the terminal strips (p. 8)
Step 8 – Mount the remaining top surface locking lugs (p. 8)
Step 9 – Mount the reverb tank (p. 9)
2
Step 1 – Mount the power cord receptacle (p. 9)
Step 2 – Mount the fuse holder (p. 9)
Step 3 – Mount the phono in and out jacks (p. 9)
Step 4 – Mount the footswitch jack (p. 10)
Step 1 – Mount the lamp holder (p. 10)
Step 2 – Mount the power switch (p. 10)
Step 3 – Mount the output jack (p. 10)
Step 4 – Mount the reverb on/off switch (p. 10)
Step 5 – Mount the 500K reverb and 10K dwell pots (p. 10)
Step 6 – Mount the input jack (p. 10)
Step 1 – Connect the output transformer (TR2) wires (p. 11)
Step 2 – Connect the power transformer (TR1) wires (p. 11)
Step 3 – Connect the power switch (p. 11)
Step 4 – Connect the power cord receptacle (p. 11)
Step 5 – Connect the filaments (p. 12)
Step 6 – Connect the power supply wires (p. 12)
Step 7 – Connect the reverb driver wires and components (p. 13)
Step 8 – Wire the phono jacks (p. 13)
Step 9 – Wire the front panel components (p. 14)
Step 10 – Prepare and connect the shielded wires (p. 14)
Step 11 – Connect the remaining tube socket wires (p. 16)
Step 1 – Connect the diodes (p. 16)
Step 2 – Connect the filter caps and resistors (p. 17)
Step 3 – Connect the “phono in” components (p. 17)
Step 4 – Connect the V1 components (p. 17)
Step 5 – Connect the V3 components (p. 17)
Step 6 – Connect the V4 components (p. 18)
Step 1 – Mount the rubber feet (p. 18) Step 2 – Mount the cover plate (p. 18)
Step 1 – Make the 12" output cable (p. 19) Step 2 – Make the 14 ½” input cable (p. 19)
Step 3 – Connect the cables to their respective phono jacks (p. 20)
ASSEMBLY DRAWINGS
PARTS LIST DRAWINGS & Tool List
…….…………………………….separate document (7 drawings)
…...….separate document (3 pages, Tool List on p. 3)

3
DANGER
HIGH VOLTAGE
MAY BE PRESENT
ON FILTER CAPACITORS
DO NOT TOUCH!
SAFETY
Tube amps operate at high voltages that have the potential to injure and kill. Please remember the following
when working on this project.
Only work on tube amps when you are wide awake and sober.
Do not plug the amp in until you have gone through all of the instructions, checking and re-checking
each step.
Be aware that tubes become very hot when the amp is on and can take several minutes to cool down
after power is turned off.
Work in a ventilated area when soldering.
Always follow the one hand rule when working with an amp that is connected to power or may have
voltage present. (Any amp that has been plugged in at one time, may have high voltage present).
The one hand rule (pictured below): is a safety precaution for working on an amp that is
plugged in or could potentially have high voltages present. Using alligator clips with your
DMM, clip the ground side to the chassis and use the other side to probe at various test points
with one hand. This prevents a fatal shock which can result from current passing through the
heart. (Many people even put their other hand in their pocket or behind their back).
Always probe a tube amp for dangerous voltages present on the filter
capacitors before working on it, even if it has been turned off and
unplugged for months. 22µF 450V
Filter Cap
Positive (+) end

SOLDERING TIPS
1. Bend the component lead
and wrap it around the
connection point.
2. Wrap the component lead
so that it can hold itself to the
connection point.
3. Heat up both component
lead and connection point with
the soldering iron.
4. Apply solder to both
component lead and
connection point.
2. Apply fresh solder to mix in
with old solder joint
1. Heat up old solder joint
with the soldering iron.
3. Use a de-soldering tool to
remove the old solder joint
while it is heated.
De-Soldering Tip
4
It is important to make a good solder joint at each connection point. A cold solder joint is a connection that
may look connected but is actually disconnected or intermittently connected. (A cold solder joint can keep
your project from working.)
Follow these tips to make a good solder joint. Take your time with each connection and make sure that all
components are connected and will remain connected if your project is bumped or shaken.
Bend the component lead or wire ending and wrap it around the connection point.
Make sure it is not too close to a neighboring component which could cause an
unintended connection.
2. Wrap the component lead so that it can hold itself to the connection point.
Touch the soldering iron to both the component lead and the connection point allowing both to
warm up just before applying the solder to them.
Be sure to adequately cover both component lead and connection point with melted solder.
Remove the soldering iron from your work and allow the solder joint to cool. (The
solder joint should be shiny and smooth after solidifying.)
Cut off any excess wire or component leads with cutting pliers.
Clean the soldering iron's tip by wiping it across the wet sponge again after making the
solder joint.

WIRING TIPS
There are 4 different types of wire included with this kit. It's important to use the correct wire type at the right
place in the instructions since each type serves a specific function.
5
Because of the electro-magnetic
properties of current traveling through a wire,
there are a few conventions used when making
wire connections.
A) Twist the wires together where indicated in
the instructions.
B) If two wire paths intersect, try to have them
cross over each other as perpendicular as
possible. (You should follow the path of the
wires shown in the instructions).
Be careful not to strip away strands of wire when you remove the insulation from the wire ends.
Be careful not to burn the insulation of nearby wires with the soldering iron.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
20AWG
22AWG
A) Twisted Wires
B) Perpendicular
Intersection
green 20 AWG solid core cloth-covered wire
blue 22 AWG stranded hook-up wire
Green wire is commonly used for filament wire in tube amps. 20 AWG wire is rated for 3.7A of current and that's plenty for the
filament connections in this kit. Solid core wire has been selected to make it easier when making connections to the tube socket pins.
(You do not need to tin the ends of solid-core wire before connecting).
Stripping wire, tinning wire and soldering. Throughout these instructions you will be told to strip and tin
numerous lengths of wire. Unless noted otherwise, cut the wire to the length stated in the instructions. Then
strip ¼” of insulation off each end. Twist each end of the stranded wire, and apply a small amount of solder to
each end (i.e. tin the wire ends). This will prevent the stranded wire from fraying and will make the final
soldering much easier.
The blue stranded wire will be used for most of the circuit connections. Stranded wire was chosen because it's not as likely as solid
core wire to break off at the ends. Your connections will be substantially improved if you take the time to tin the stranded wire ends
before making connections.
tin braid 22 AWG stranded wire
This type of shielded wire will be used for making customized RCA cables for connecting to the spring reverb tank and fit the layout
of the kit perfectly. These instructions will walk you through the process.
shielded 26 AWG stranded wire
This type of shielded wire will be used for shielding the guitar signal at sensitive areas in the layout. These instructions will walk
you through the process.

STEP BY STEP ASSEMBLY
Please refer to the assembly drawings indicated for each section.
HARDWARE FASTENING TIP
When fastening components with mounting hardware (screws, lock washers, and hex nuts), the lock washer
and hex nut should be fastened on the other side of the chassis from the head of the screw as shown in the
drawing below.
SECTION 1 – Mounting of Top Components
Please refer to assembly Drawings 1 – 3.
(The chassis provides the ground connection for many
components so it is important that the inner edges of these
holes are not insulated by the paint coating).
With the terminal strips used in this kit, you might want to connect the wires to the lower holes and
components to the upper holes. (Doing this can make it easier to change components for modification).
5W 1K
5W 1K
Wires connected to lower terminal holes.
Components connected to upper terminal
holes.
Step 1 – File the chassis holes
Except for the holes circled in the drawings on this page
and the next, use a miniature round file to remove the
paint coating from the inside edges of each chassis hole.
6
Top of
Chassis
Rear Panel
Front Panel
It’s not necessary to file away the paint from the holes
on the cover plate.
Do not file away the paint
from the holes circled here.
(inside)
Chassis
Screw Head
Lock Washer
Hex Nut
Component
Mounting
Bracket
(outside)

Rear Panel
Front Panel
Do not file away the paint from the holes circled here.
After filing away the paint from each hole, you might want to check for electrical continuity between one hole
and all of the rest using a multi-meter to make sure that you didn’t miss anything and that the paint was filed
away sufficiently.
Step 2 – Mount the rubber grommets
Drawing 1 shows where to mount the three rubber grommets. Squeeze the grommet
into the hole and push it into place with your fingers.
(3)
(4) (8)
(5)
(8)
Step 3 – Mount the 9 pin miniature tube sockets and shields
Drawings 2 & 3 show where to mount the four 9 pin miniature
sockets. Make sure that pins 1 & 9 are away from the rear edge
of the chassis. (Except for the locking lugs, use #4 hardware).
(3)
(1)
P-0401H
7
(4)
Shield bases are mounted on top of
the tube sockets before inserting the
#4 mounting screws through the top
of the chassis.
Tube Socket Name Rear Hole Front Hole
V1
V2
V3
V4
Lock washer Locking lug
Lock washer
Lock washer
Lock washer
Locking lug
Locking lug
P-0401H & Lock washer
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
V1V2V3V4
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
See Drawing 3 (Inside Chassis View)
Rear Hole
Front Hole

8
Step 4 – Mount the tank in & out phono jacks
Drawings 2 & 3 show where to mount these two phono jacks.
Phono Jack Sleeve
Terminal
Solder Lug Washer
Nut
Flat Washer
Place the solder lug washer over the phono jack before inserting
the jack through the 3/8" hole from the inside of the chassis.
Place the flat washer over the phono jack on the outside of the chassis and fasten the nut while making
sure the sleeve terminals of both solder lug washers are pointing toward the TR1 side of the chassis as
shown in Drawing 3.
(2)
Put a slight bend in the solder lug washer before
mounting the phono jack so that the sleeve terminal
will not be flat against the chassis surface.
Step 5 – Mount the output transformer “TR2”
Drawing 2 shows where to mount the output transformer. Insert each
of the four wires through Grommet 1 and use #8 hardware to fasten
the transformer to the chassis.
P-TF22921
(2)
(2)
(2)
Step 6 – Mount the power transformer “TR1”
Drawing 2 shows where to mount the power transformer.
Insert each of the six wires through their respective
grommets as listed on Drawing 2. Use #10 hardware to
fasten the transformer to the chassis. Make sure to use the
½” long #10 screws.
P-TF47609
½" length
(2)
(2)
(2)
Step 7 – Mount the terminal strips
There should be nine terminal strips remaining. Drawing 3 shows where to mount each one. Be sure to mount
them with the same orientation as shown in the drawing. Use #6 hardware.
(10) (10)(10)
Step 8 – Mount the remaining top surface locking lugs
Drawing 3 shows where to mount each of three more locking lugs. Be sure to mount them with the same
orientation as shown in the drawing. Use #6 hardware.
Terminal Strip Naming Convention
Each terminal strip has been assigned a name T1
through T10. The terminals are numbered from left
to right as seen with mounting bracket directed
toward the viewer. T6(3) will be the notation used
for referring to terminal number 3 on T6.
T1
123
T1(2)
Mounting bracket
direction.
T6
1 2 3 4 5 6
T6(3)
Mounting bracket
direction.
(3) (3) (3)
At this point, the only open holes on the top surface of the chassis should be the four holes for mounting the
reverb tank.

9
Step 9 – Mount the reverb tank
Drawing 3 shows the four mounting holes for the reverb tank. The tank should be mounted on the outside of
the chassis with its input and output connectors facing the front panel of the chassis. Use #10 hardware. Make
sure to use the ½” long #10 screws.
½" length
(4)
(4)
(4)
(4)
Remove the four grommets and sleeved washers from
the reverb tank. They will not be useful for mechanical
isolation in this application. Grommet Sleeved Washer
Remove all foam pieces from the inside of the reverb tank.
The screw heads and flat washers go on the outside of the chassis, on top of the
reverb tank’s mounting flange. The lock washers and hex nuts should be
fastened on the inside of the chassis.
(inside)
Chassis
Screw Head
Lock Washer
Hex Nut
(outside)
Flat Washer
Mounting Flange
At this point, all of the top mounted components should be in place. Fastening the tube shield tops to their
shield bases can help keep the chassis more stable for the rest of the assembly process, but we do not
recommend installing the tubes until after the kit is completely assembled.
SECTION 2 – Mounting of Rear Components
Please refer to assembly Drawing 4.
Step 1 – Mount the power cord receptacle
Mount the power cord receptacle in the square hole as shown in
Drawing 4 so that the earth ground terminal is positioned closest to
the chassis opening. Except for the locking lug, use #4 hardware.
Make sure that the locking lug is mounted to the same screw and in
the same orientation as shown in the drawing. (1)
(2)
(1)
(1)
Earth Ground Terminal
(2)
Step 2 – Mount the fuse holder
Mount the fuse holder in the next hole over from the power cord
receptacle and insert the 1A fast blow fuse along with the fuse
holder’s cap.
(1) (1)
Step 3 – Mount the phono in and out jacks
Drawings 4 shows where to mount these three phono jacks.
Phono Jack Sleeve
Terminal
Solder Lug Washer
Nut
Flat Washer
Place the solder lug washer over the phono jack before inserting
the jack through the 3/8" hole from the inside of the chassis.
(3)
Place the flat washer over the phono jack on the outside of the chassis and fasten the nut while making
sure the sleeve terminals of both solder lug washers are oriented as shown in Drawing 4.
Put a slight bend in the solder lug washer before
mounting the phono jack so that the sleeve terminal
will not be flat against the chassis surface.

Step 4 – Mount the footswitch jack
Mount the footswitch jack in the one remaining rear panel hole as shown in
Drawing 4. This is the ¼” jack with only two solder lugs (tip & sleeve).
SLEEVE TIP
(1)
SECTION 3 – Mounting of Front Components
Please refer to assembly Drawing 4.
Step 2 – Mount the power switch
After removing the screws from its terminals,
mount the power switch in the 15/32" chassis hole
on the front panel as shown in Drawing 4.
Step 1 – Mount the lamp holder
Drawing 4 shows where to mount the lamp holder. (Once the lamp holder is
mounted you may screw in the bulb and then the jewel).
Power Switch
Remove all 6 screws from the
terminals. You will not need
them for this project.
Step 3 – Mount the output jack
Mount the output jack in the next 3/8" hole over
from the lamp holder as shown in Drawing 4.
SLEEVE TIP
SHUNT
Step 4 – Mount the reverb on/off switch
Mount the reverb on/off mini toggle switch in the next 1/4" hole over from the
output jack as shown in Drawing 4.
Chassis
Lock Washer
Hex Nut
Hex Nut
Flat Washer
Step 5 – Mount the 500K reverb and 10K dwell pots
Drawing 4 shows where to mount the reverb and dwell pots. When they are mounted, turn their shafts all the
way counter-clockwise. (Once you have done this, you can mount the chicken head knobs while pointing to
where you want the minimum level setting to be positioned).
Step 6 – Mount the input jack
Drawing 4 shows where to mount the input jack.
Bend back mounting tabs
(1) (1)
500KL 10KL ccw
min max
Pot as it would be
positioned while viewed
from the outside of the
chassis and turned right
side up. (2)
Set screw
SLEEVE TIP
SHUNT
10

11
SECTION 4 – Making Wire Connections
Please refer to assembly Drawings 5 & 6. Review the soldering and wiring tips on pp. 4 - 6 if you haven’t
already.
Step 1 – Connect the output transformer (TR2) wires
Cut the blue wire to a length of about 4 ¼” and connect it to V2 pin 1. Make sure to leave space at pin 1
for another wire connection later in the instructions.
Cut the black wire to a length of about 1 ½” and connect it to the sleeve terminal of the same RCA jack.
Cut the green wire to a length of about 1 ¾” (above the grommet) and connect it to the center lug of the
RCA jack labeled “Tank (In)” in Drawing 5.
Cut the red wire to a length of about 5 ¼” and connect it to T3(5). There will be one more wire connected
to this terminal so if you are connecting wires to the lower terminal holes, do not solder this connection
until the other wire connection is mentioned below.
Step 2 – Connect the power transformer (TR1) wires
Cut both red wires to a length of about 1 ½”. Connect one red wire to T2(2) and the other to T2(4).
Cut the white wire to a length of about 7 ½” and connect it to the power switch terminal labeled “T-On”
on the A-side of the switch as shown in Drawing 5.
Cut the black wire to a length of about 2 ¾” and connect it to the power receptacle’s “N” terminal.
Twist the two green wires together and cut this twisted pair of wires to a length of about 4". Connect one
of the wire ends to T1(1) and the other to T1(3).
Step 3 – Connect the power switch
Connect the 1Ω, 5 watt resistor from the power switch terminal “T-Off” on the B-side of the switch to the
nearest locking lug as shown in Drawing 5. (This will drain filter cap voltage when power is turned off).
Strip and tin an 11" length of the blue hook-up wire and connect it from the power switch “P” terminal on
the A-side of the switch to the solder lug on the side of the fuse holder as shown in Drawing 5.
Strip and tin an 8" length of the blue hook-up wire and connect it from the power switch “P” terminal on
the B-side of the switch to T3(5).
Step 4 – Connect the power cord receptacle
Strip and tin a 2" length of the blue hook-up wire and connect it from the center lug of the fuse holder to
the “L” lug of the power cord receptacle.
Strip and tin a 2" length of the blue hook-up wire and connect it from the “E” lug of the power cord
receptacle to the nearest locking lug as shown in Drawing 5.
Before you make a new connection at a particular terminal or solder lug, look at Drawing 6 and notice how many other connections
will be made at that terminal. That way you can decide whether it’s best for you to solder the connection and leave space open for
future connections or hold off on soldering until after every connection at that location has been made.

Step 5 – Connect the filaments
Cut two 6" lengths of the green cloth-covered wire. Connect one of these wires to T1(1) and the other wire
to T1(3). Leave room for two more wires and resistors to be connected to each of these terminals. Twist
these two wires together, route them along the chassis surface toward the lamp holder and connect the wire
ends to opposite lugs on the lamp holder as shown in Drawing 5.
12
Cut two 12" lengths of the green cloth-covered wire. Connect one of these wires to T1(1) and the other
wire to T1(3). Leave room for two resistors to be connected to each of these terminals. Twist these two
wires together and route them along the chassis surface toward tube socket V4. Connect one of these wire
ends to pin 9 and the other wire end to both pins 4 and 5. Do not solder these connections, yet.
The main idea when connecting the filament wires is to avoid transferring filament hum from the power
transformer’s filament winding (green wires) to the signal path of the circuit. In order to minimize filament
hum, we will be twisting wires together and routing them along the chassis surface. Avoid touching tube pins
2 and 7 with the filament wires as these are where the guitar signal enters each tube triode.
The wire lengths given are recommended starting lengths. You may decide to clip off some of the wire length
as you bring each twisted pair of wires near their connection points.
Cut two 5" lengths of the green cloth-covered wire. Connect one of these wires to V4 pin 5 and the other
wire to V4 pin 9. Solder the connections at V4, now. Twist these two wires together and route them along
the chassis surface in a path similar to what’s shown on Drawing 5. Connect one of the wire ends to V3
pin 9 and the other wire end to both V3 pins 4 and 5. Do not solder these connections, yet.
Cut two more 5" lengths of the green cloth-covered wire. Connect one of these wires to V3 pin 5 and the
other wire to V3 pin 9. Solder the connections at V3, now. Twist these two wires together and route them
along the chassis surface in a path similar to what’s shown on Drawing 5. Connect one of the wire ends to
V2 pin 9 and the other wire end to both V2 pins 4 and 5. Do not solder these connections, yet.
Cut two more 5" lengths of the green cloth-covered wire. Connect one of these wires to V2 pin 5 and the
other wire to V2 pin 9. Solder the connections at V2, now. Twist these two wires together and route them
along the chassis surface in a path similar to what’s shown on Drawing 5. Connect one of the wire ends to
V1 pin 9 and the other wire end to both V1 pins 4 and 5.
Find the two 100Ωresistors. Connect one from T1(1) to T1(2) and connect the other from T1(2) to T1(3).
(Because the power transformer’s filament winding does not have a center-tap, these resistors are used to
greatly reduce filament hum).
Step 6 – Connect the power supply wires
Strip and tin a 2" length of the blue hook-up wire and connect it from T2(1) to T2(5).
Strip and tin a 2" length of the blue hook-up wire and connect it from T2(1) to T3(6).
Strip and tin a 3 ½" length of the blue hook-up wire and connect it from T3(3) to T4(4). Do not solder the
connections, yet.
Strip and tin a 7" length of the blue hook-up wire and connect it from T3(3) to T6(5). Solder the T3(3)
connection, now.

13
Strip and tin a 2" length of the blue hook-up wire and connect it from T4(4) to V4 pin 1. Solder the T4(4)
connection, now.
When making connections to the tube sockets, the filament wires should be low and touching the chassis
surface. Try to make all of the other tube pin connections from above and routed through the air so that the
wires and component leads do not touch the filament wires.
Strip and tin a 9" length of the blue hook-up wire and connect it from T3(1) to T8(5).
Step 7 – Connect the reverb driver wires and components
The V2 socket will hold the tube that works in conjunction with the output transformer (TR2) to drive the
spring reverb tank. The pins of this socket must be connected so that the two triodes of the tube are connected
in parallel with each other (plate connected to plate, grid to grid and cathode to cathode).
Strip and tin three 2" lengths of blue hook-up wire and connect:
V2 pin 1 to V2 pin 6 (plates)
V2 pin 2 to V2 pin 7 (grids) – Leave room to connect two more wires, one at pin 2 and one at pin 7.
V2 pin 3 to V2 pin 8 (cathodes) – Leave room to connect a cap and resistor to pin 3.
Strip and tin a 2" length of blue hook-up wire and connect it from V2 pin 2 to the footswitch jack’s tip lug.
Warning: Be very careful not to burn the insulation of nearby wires with your soldering iron.
Strip and tin a 3" length of blue hook-up wire and connect it from V2 pin 7 to T8(7).
Connect both a 1.5K resistor and 25µF capacitor from V2 pin 3 to the locking lug as
shown in Drawing 5. Make sure to connect the positive end of the capacitor to pin 3.
25µF 25V
(+) (-)
Strip and tin a 9" length of blue hook-up wire and connect it from T8(7) to the mini-toggle switch’s B-side
pole lug.
Cut a 3" length of blue hook-up wire. Strip ½” of insulation off of one end and the usual ¼” of insulation
off of the other end. Tin both ends and connect the ½” end to both “T-off” terminals on the mini-toggle
switch. The other end connects to T7(2).
½” ¼”
Connect a 220K resistor from T8(7) to T8(8).
Step 8 – Wire the phono jacks
Strip and tin a 9" length of blue hook-up wire and connect it from T9(1) to the center lug of the “Phono
In” jack.
Strip and tin a 11" length of blue hook-up wire and connect it from T9(4) to the input jack’s “shunt” lug.
Strip and tin a 9 ¾" length of blue hook-up wire and connect it from the output jack’s “shunt” lug to the
center lug of the “Phono Out (2)” jack. Leave room at the “Phono Out” jack for one more wire.
Strip and tin a 2" length of blue hook-up wire and connect the center lugs of both “Phono Out” jacks.

Step 9 – Wire the front panel components
14
Strip and tin a 3" length of blue hook-up wire and connect the output jack’s “tip” lug to T5(1).
Strip and tin a 3" length of blue hook-up wire and connect the “P” terminal on the A-side of the mini-
toggle switch to T6(1).
Strip and tin a 3" length of blue hook-up wire and connect the output jack’s “tip” lug to the “T-on”
terminal on the A-side of the mini-toggle switch.
Strip and tin a 2" length of blue hook-up wire and connect the 500KL pot’s “hot” lug to T7(1).
Strip and tin an 7" length of blue hook-up wire and connect the 10KL pot’s “hot” lug to T8(2).
Strip and tin an 9 ½" length of blue hook-up wire and connect the 10KL pot’s “wiper” lug to V1 pin 7.
Strip and tin a 3" length of blue hook-up wire and connect the 500KL pot’s “cold” lug to T7(2). Leave
space on this “cold” lug for another wire connection.
Strip and tin a 4 ½" length of blue hook-up wire and connect the 10KL pot’s “cold” lug to T7(2).
Step 10 – Prepare and connect the shielded wires
Cut a 9 ½” length of shielded 26 AWG wire and prepare it for connection by following the steps below:
1) On one end, carefully remove ½” of the outer insulation.
½”
shielded 26 AWG stranded wire
2) Create a single ½” length conductor out of the shield ending.
The outer insulation is very thin so apply your wire strippers around the wire
very lightly while gently rotating the wire to create a ring around the
insulation. The goal is to pull off ½” of the outer insulation without cutting
into the shielding beneath it.
Pull the shielding away from the inner insulation with your fingers. Push the shielding back down toward the outer insulation
and twist the strands into a single conductive piece pointing out in one direction from the wire end.
½”
3) Tin this ½” shield conductor with solder. Be careful not to burn the insulation beneath it.
¼”
4) Carefully remove ¼” of inner insulation from this same wire end and tin the
inner conductor. Be careful not to burn through the insulation covering it.
Inner
Conductor
The goal is to pull off ¼” of the inner insulation without cutting into the inner conductor beneath it. When you are ready to pull
off the inner insulation from this wire end, grasp the wire at the inner insulation with your fingers to avoid accidentally pulling
the outer insulation down further.
Inner
Insulation
Shield
Conductor
5) On the other end of the wire, remove ¼” of the outer insulation, pull the shielding away from the inner
insulation and cut off all of the exposed strands of shielding from this end with wire cutters.
1/8”
¼”
6) Remove 1/8" of inner insulation from this end and tin the inner conductor. Be careful not to burn
through the insulation covering it.
9 ½”
¼”
½”
Outer
Insulation

Connect the ¼” inner conductor end to the 500KL pot’s “wiper” lug.
Connect the ½” shield conductor from this same wire end to the 500KL pot’s “cold” lug.
Connect the other end of this wire to V3 pin 7.
1/8” ¼”
To V3
pin 7
To
500KL
wiper
To
500KL
cold
Cut a 6” length of shielded 26 AWG wire and prepare it for connection by following the
same steps used to prepare the first shielded wire.
1/8” ¼”
To
Input
tip To
T10(1)
To
T10(2)
6"
Connect the ¼” inner conductor end to T10(1).
Connect the ½” shield conductor from this same wire end to T10(2).
Connect the other end of this wire to the input jack’s tip lug.
Check for shorts in the shielded wire:
Make sure the shield in not accidentally shorting out the inner conductor of the shielded wire by taking
resistance measurements with an ohm meter. If the wire is shorted, the signal will be grounded out.
Measure resistance between T10(2) and the 500KL pot’s “wiper” lug. With this pot turned all the way
down, you should measure about 0 ohms. (You might actually measure 2 or 3 ohms, but that’s close
enough to zero). With the pot turned all the way up, you should measure about 500KΩ).
If you measured close to 0Ωwith the 500KL pot turned all the way up, the wire has a short and you will
need to prepare a new shielded wire being careful not to overheat the shielding or inner conductor so that
the insulation is compromised.
Measure resistance between T10(1) and T10(2). You should measure an open circuit (or resistance that is
too high for your ohm meter to measure, infinite resistance).
If you measured close to 0Ω, the wire has a short and you will need to prepare a new shielded wire being
careful not to overheat the shielding or inner conductor so that the insulation is compromised.
15
Cut a 6” length of shielded 26 AWG wire and prepare it for connection by following the
same steps used to prepare the first shielded wire.
1/8” ¼”
V1
pin 2 To
T10(1)
To
T10(2)
6"
Tip: Some people may like to add insulation over the shielded end that has
been cut away to prevent the possibility of having an accidental short.
Consider adding heat shrink or corona dope to this
area for added insulation between the shield and
inner conductor.

Connect the ¼” inner conductor end to T10(1).
Connect the ½” shield conductor from this same wire end to T10(2).
Connect the other end of this wire to V1 pin 2.
Cut an 8” length of shielded 26 AWG wire and prepare it for connection by following
the same steps used to prepare the first shielded wire.
1/8” ¼”
To
T4(1) To
T10(1)
To
T10(2)
8"
Again, measure resistance between T10(1) and T10(2) to make sure this shielded wire is not shorted.
Connect the ¼” inner conductor end to T10(1).
Connect the ½” shield conductor from this same wire end to T10(2).
Connect the other end of this wire to T4(1).
Again, measure resistance between T10(1) and T10(2) to make sure this shielded wire is not shorted.
Step 11 – Connect the remaining tube socket wires
Strip and tin a 3" length of blue hook-up wire and connect T8(6) to V1 pin 6.
Strip and tin a 3" length of blue hook-up wire and connect T8(3) to V1 pin 1.
Strip and tin a 7" length of blue hook-up wire and connect T6(3) to V3 pin 6.
Strip and tin a 6" length of blue hook-up wire and connect T6(6) to V3 pin 1.
Strip and tin a 2" length of blue hook-up wire and connect T4(3) to V4 pin 2.
Strip and tin a 6 ½" length of blue hook-up wire and connect T5(4) to V4 pin 3.
SECTION 5 – Mounting Electronic Components
Please refer to assembly Drawing 6.
Connect the four diodes to T2. It is very important to connect each of the
diodes with the correct polarity as shown in Drawing 6. (Notice there is
symmetry with respect to the center “ground” terminal). These diodes
create a full-wave bridge rectifier.
Silver Band =
Cathode (-) end
Anode (+) end
Diode Polarity
Symmetry
16
Step 1 – Connect the diodes

17
Step 2 – Connect the filter caps and resistors
Connect the 1K resistor from T3(6) to T3(5).
Connect a 10K resistor from T3(5) to T3(3).
Connect another 10K resistor from T3(3) to T3(1).
Connect a 22µF capacitor from T3(6) to the nearest locking lug.
Make sure to connect the negative end of the filter caps to the
locking lug (ground) and the positive end to the terminal strip.
22µF 450V
Negative (-)Positive (+)
Connect another 22µF capacitor from T3(5) to the nearest locking lug. Make sure to connect the negative end
to the locking lug and the positive end to the terminal strip.
Connect another 22µF capacitor from T3(3) to the nearest locking lug. Make sure to connect the negative end
to the locking lug and the positive end to the terminal strip.
Connect the remaining 22µF capacitor from T3(1) to the nearest locking lug. Make sure to connect the
negative end to the locking lug and the positive end to the terminal strip.
Step 3 – Connect the “phono in” components
Connect a 470K resistor from T9(1) to T9(3).
Connect the 220pF capacitor from T9(3) to T9(4).
Step 4 – Connect the V1 components
Connect the 1M resistor from T10(1) to T10(2).
Connect a 1.5K resistor and a 25µF capacitor from V1 pin 3 to the nearest locking lug.
Make sure you connect the negative end of the capacitor to the locking lug.
25µF 25V
Negative (-)
Positive (+)
Connect the 2.2K resistor from V1 pin 8 to the nearest locking lug.
Connect a .01µF cap from T8(2) to T8(4).
Connect a 100K resistor from T8(3) to T8(4).
Connect a 10K resistor from T8(4) to T8(5).
Connect a 100K resistor from T8(5) to T8(6).
Connect the 500pF capacitor from T8(6) to T8(7).
Step 5 – Connect the V3 components
Connect a 1.5K resistor and the remaining 25µF capacitor from V3 pin 8 to the nearest locking lug. Make
sure you connect the negative end of the capacitor to the locking lug.
Connect the remaining .01µF cap from V3 pin 2 to the center lug of the “Tank Out” jack. Leave room at
V3 pin 2 for a resistor connection.

Connect the remaining 220K resistor from V3 pin 2 to the nearest locking lug.
Connect the remaining 1.5K resistor and the 1µF capacitor from V3 pin 3 to the sleeve terminal of the
“Tank Out” jack. (This capacitor is not polarized so it doesn’t matter which lead is connected to ground).
Connect a .1µF capacitor from T6(1) to T6(4).
Connect a 100K resistor from T6(3) to T6(4).
Connect the remaining 10K resistor from T6(4) to T6(5).
Connect a 100K resistor from T6(5) to T6(6).
Connect a .1µF capacitor from T6(6) to T7(3).
Connect the remaining 470K resistor from T7(1) to T7(3).
Step 6 – Connect the V4 components
Connect a 2M resistor from T4(4) to T4(3).
Connect the remaining 2M resistor from T4(3) to T4(2).
Connect the .047µF capacitor from T4(3) to T4(1).
Connect the remaining 100K resistor from T5(4) to T5(2).
Connect the remaining .1µF capacitor from T5(1) to T5(4).
SECTION 6 – Assemble and Fasten the Cover Plate
18
At this point, the internal circuitry should be complete. Take the time now to carefully double check your
connections and make sure they match up with Drawing 6.
Step 1 – Mount the rubber feet
Mount the four rubber feet to the four holes in the cover plate using
the remaining #10 screws, nuts and lock washers as shown here.
Step 2 – Mount the cover plate
Use the four self-tapping screws to fasten the
cover plate over chassis opening.
(4)
You may have to use a lot of force to initially insert the self tapping
screws through the holes in the bottom flange of the chassis.
(4)
(inside)
Cover Plate
Screw Head
Lock Washer
Hex Nut
(outside)
Rubber Foot
¾" length
(4)
(4)
(4)
Bottom
Flange

19
SECTION 7 – Make and Connect the RCA Cables
Step 1 – Make the 12" output cable
In this section we will make two vintage style RCA cables for connecting the spring reverb tank to the drive
and recovery circuits.
3) Insert this wire end through one of the RCA plugs so that the 1/16" wire end comes out of the hole in
the tip of the plug. Solder the 1/16" wire end to the tip of the plug.
2) Strip away about 1/16" of the insulation
from this wire end and tin the wire.
1) Push down the shielding on one end of this wire to expose about 1” of the insulation. Fan out the
shielding at the end by pulling it away from the insulation with your fingers.
1”
1/16”
4) Let the tip cool and then push the shielding back up
toward the RCA plug’s sleeve base. Solder the frayed
shield end to the sleeve base, being careful not to burn
through the wire’s insulation.
Solder the shielding to the sleeve base by forming at least two solder joints
on opposite sides of the base. Touch the soldering iron to the base of the
RCA plug only, do not apply the soldering iron over the wire’s insulation.
5) Measure resistance between the sleeve and the tip of this RCA plug with an ohm meter to make sure
they are not accidentally shorted together.
Tip
Sleeve Base
Cut a 12” length of 22 AWG tin braided wire and follow the steps below:
6) Repeat the same process to add another RCA plug to the other end of this wire.
Cut a 14 ½” length of 22 AWG tin braided wire and use the remaining RCA plugs to make another cable
just as you did for the 12" cable above.
The insulation burns easily, so when
soldering the wire to the tip try not to
rest the tip on the end of the insulation.
Bad: The plug tip is resting on the end of the
wire’s insulation and will likely burn through it
while soldering.
Good: The plug tip is positioned away from
the end of the insulation to avoid burning it.
Two Solder Joints
Check the resistance on both cables from tip to
tip and from tip to sleeve.
From tip to tip you should measure 0 ohms
and from tip to sleeve you should get a
resistance that is too high to measure.
Step 2 – Make the 14 ½" input cable
0 Ω
> 20MΩ
Tip
Sleeve
Tip

20
Step 3 – Connect the cables to their respective phono jacks
Please refer to assembly Drawing 7.
Connect the 12" cable from the reverb tank’s “OUT” connector to the phono jack closest to V3.
Connect the 14 ½" cable from the reverb tank’s “IN” connector to the other phono jack on top of the unit.
SECTION 8 – Finishing Up
Plug the tubes into their respective sockets as indicated on Drawing 7. There is only one 12AT7 (a.k.a.
ECC81) and it should be plugged into socket V2. All the other tubes are 12AX7's (a.k.a. ECC83).
Plug the detachable power cord into its receptacle on the rear panel.
Note: The Wave is capable of delivering extreme levels of reverb. It is best to keep the Wave off of your
speaker cabinet if you plan to play at loud volumes with the reverb controls turned up past half-way.
Otherwise, the mechanical vibrations may cause oscillations.