Morso 1430 Cleanheat Squirrel Quick start guide

Guide to Installation and Use for
1430 Cleanheat Squirrel
MORS0 JERNST0BERI A/S, DK-7900 NYK0BING MORS
E-Mail: stoves@morsoe,com 'Website: www.morsoe.com
Distributed by: Baxl Fires Division' Wood Lane' Erdington,
Birmingham B24 9QP
, England'
www.morsos
toves.co,uk

We congratulate you on your choice of a Morso
stove. Morso has been producing some of the world's
best stoves since 1853. If you follow this Installation
and operating Instruction carefully, we can guarantee
you many years of warmth and plea
sure.
DIRECTIONS FOR INSTALLATION
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1. The stove must be installed according to the regulations laid down in the
building code; e.g. regarding the distance to combustible material. Out of
consideration for the cleaning, the distance to masonry should be 100 -
150
mm. The non-combustible substructure should cover
the floor in an area
of at least 500 mm in front of the stove and at least 100 mm at the sides
and behind the stove.
The opening formed by the firing door is less than 1000 sq.cms.
It is advisable t
o consult your local building authorities. Please notice the
rules in the building code concerning the installation of stoves, the
connection of these and the rules concerning the installation of chimneys.
2. After the unpacking place the stove on the side
and mount the legs with
the enclosed bolts M 8x25. In order not to scratch the surface you may
place the stove on the packing.
3. The factory has provided the stove with rear smoke outlet. The lid (4)
must be detachable from the top plate and thus serve a
s a cleaning lid and
hot plate. When using this connection, the cleaning of the stove is
facilitated
. If you desire a top smoke outlet, the flue is moved to the top
plate and mounted there. Afterwards the lid is mounted to the inner plate
with screws and tension disks.
In order to ensure sufficient draught the horizontal runs of the stove pipe
should be as short as possible and preferably rise a little towards the
chimney.
The flue must not be inserted in the chimney itself, but only to the edge of
the masonry. (Many chimney pipe-
bushings have a built in stop,
preventing the pipe from being inserted too far). The stove pipe -
chimney
connection should be sealed with fire proof seal.
4. Ensure that the baffle plates (1) are
placed correctly. (See sectional
drawing).
5. The outer surface is susceptible to corrosion by acid. Therefore cover the
stove whenever acid is used in washing down the surrounding masonry.
6. The initial fire should be small in order to properly cure the stove
before
starting a heavier fi
re.
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Warning:
Do not fire heavily in a cold stove.
Never allow the stove to become superheated. Superheating may
damage the fireproof material, the grates, baffle plate etc.
Superheating Is seen when anypart of the stove is red hot, e.g.
baffle plate or
grates
The heat output from the stove is regulated with 2 draught
valves i.e. the
primary air inlet (8) and the secondary air inlet (9).
Firing with different types of fuel Is described In the enclosed
overall description of methods of stoking.
If when th
e doors are open smoke comes out, this is due to
insufficient chimney draught. (A chimney draft of at least 1 mm WP
= 0,1 mbar= 0,04 inch
Wp Is demanded in order to prevent smoke
outlet). As a rough guide, there should be at least 12
foot vertical
height of flue b
etween the top of the stove and the top of the flue,
and the flue should be sound and tight.
ASHES
The ashes are easily shaken down into the ash pan by employing the
shaking handle at the shaking grate. The shaking handle is used to lift the
hot as
h pan. The ash pan should be emptied regularly. If the ashes reach
the grate from beneath, the grate will lie in a bed of embers which will
destroy the grate.
MAINTENANCE
At the proper heat output almost no soot Is deposited onto the glass
In the firing do
ors. The soot is easily removed by means of a Morso
Glass Cleaner or treble ammonia water.
Inspect the stove for soot frequently. The soot must be removed in
order to exploit the fuel extensively. Heavy soot built-
up reduces the
chimney draft and increases the risk of a chimney fire.
The surface of the stove is senotherm painted. The surface will be
kept well if vacuum
cleaned with a soft nozzle. If necessary wipe the
stove with a moist cloth,
but only when the stove is completely cold.
Be careful when choosing
cleaning materials as the paint may be
damaged by acid. If necessary,
use
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a mild detergent or brown soap. The painted surface may in the
course of time get a grey
tinge; but the stove can easily be
freshened up with a special heat resisting senotherm spray-
paint,
which can be bought from your dealer.
Front grate (7), bar frame (6), shaking grate (5) and coal insert
(extra accessory) are parts in direct contact with live fuel. Thus
these parts will be particularly exposed to burning through.
When fi
ring too heavily the burning through will of course be
precipitated. However, the mentioned parts are easily exchange
able.
The same thing applies to the baffle plate which is influenced by
flames and radiation of heat.
The baffle plate (1) can be edged out of the stove. Ease the
operation by also removing the front grate (7).
The fireproof material used as insulation in the fire chamber
easily resists the temperature achieved in the stove, however it
may break If hit strongly with a piece of wood or similar
things. Cracks in the fireproof material have no importance to
the functions of the stove as long as the material is kept in
place and protects lateral faces and back plate.
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OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
NOTICE
Allow the stove to warm up before creating a very hot fire.
Never let the stove become superheated. Superheating may damage the
castings, fire bricks, and the senotherm finish. Superheating is when any part
of the stove, grates or stove pipe assumes a red glow.
HEATING WITH WOOD
Open the p
rimary (8) and secondary (10) air inlet to the fully open position to
the right. Establish the fire by first placing paper and kindling on the grate
and ignite it. When the fire is going, add larger logs and close the door.
When the fuel has well ignited,
reduce the primary air inlet (8) till just enough
air is
supplied to keep flames and to keep the stove at the desired
temperature. The primary air inlet controls the fire best between the fully
closed and one or two revolutions, but this depends largely on
the
atmospheric conditions as well as the chimney design.
The secondary air inlet (10) should be kept sufficiently open to keep bright
flames and help keeping the glass clean.
Each time wood is added to the fire, extra primary air is required in order to
reach ignition temperature as quickly as possible. Just filling the stove
without adding extra air produces high levels of soot and tar, making it
necessary to sweep the chimney and stove pipe more often than if the above
procedure is followed.
When burning wood at slow rates, it is recommended to make a hot fire at
least once a day in order to burn some of the soot and tar away.
When burning at low rates and over night, allow the wood to flame up, before
the primary air inlet is closed or nearly closed.
De
pending of the quality of the wood as a fuel and the moisture content, the
remaining embers will last for a long time and probably overnight. Starting a
hot fire again is then done easily by gathering the embers and putting some
dry kindling above.
When bu
rning wood in a stove with a grate, it is as a rule unnecessary to
poke the ashes Into the ach pan as a suitable layer of ashes will act as
insulation and thus give a better combustion, and at the same time protect
the grate.
Although your morse-stove will
operate in virtually any wood, wet or green
wood (unseasoned) should be avoided. Firewood should be seasoned for at
least one year and preferably two years. Both coniferous and decidous wood
can be burned. Avoid using wood which has been exposed to salt w
ater
(driftwood, fish boxes, etc.) as the salt is very corrosive and will reduce the
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life of the stove and the chimney.
HEATING WITH SMOKELESS FUEL AND ANTHRACITE
Open the lower and secondary air vent to the max. Establish a fire with paper
and kindling wood. When the wood has ignited start adding fuel little by
little,
until the whole grate is covered by a layer of glowing coals.
It is
necessary to have a certain layer of glowing coals when adding new fuel
in order not to extinguish the fire. The smaller the piec
es of fuel, the smaller
layer is
required. Add only new fuel in small quantities and make sure that
enough/sufficient secondary air is drawn in in order to bum off the released
gasses.
The heat output is controlled mainly by the primary air Inle
t.
The primary air inlet controls the fire best between the fully closed position
and one or two revolutions, but this depends largely on the atmospheric
conditions as well as the chimney design.
The secondary air inlet should be kept sufficiently open to keep bright flames
and help keeping the glass clean.
Shake the ashes into the ash pan (e.g. whenever new fuel is added) In order
to give sufficient passage of air to the burning coals. Leave some ashes on
the grate to protect it from the heat.
HEATING WITH COAL (BITUMINOUS COAL)
Open
the lower and secondary air
vent to the max. Start placing a layer of
coal on the grate. Add paper and kindling wood on top of the coal and ignite.
Thus the gases released from the coal are ignited at once. Starting a fire in
t
he same manner as with smokeless fuel will real ease a dense yellow
smoke from the coal. This smoke will not ignite until a sufficient temperature
Is reached, and thus it may take up to one hour to ignite the coal.
Combustion of the coal is regulated with
the primary air inlet, subdraught and
the secondary air inlet should be opened sufficiently to keep bright flames
and to help keep the glass clean.
More coal should be added in limited quantities. Add coal in small quantities.
Before coal is added, the low
er air inlet should be opened wide in order to
reach ignition temperature quickly. When reducing the heat output of the
stove, do not reduce the secondary air inlet until the coal has cooled down to
the desired temperature.
The ashes should be poked into t
he ash pan frequently, (e.g. at every fuel
filling) in order to give sufficient passage of air to the combusting fuel. Leave
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a little (always let some secondary air in). Now the coals can bum for a long
time (if the stove is connected to a chimney supplying sufficient draught).
some ashes on the grate to protect it from the heat.
After burning off the coal gasses, a layer of glowing coals remain. At this
point the lower air supply can be reduced and the secondary air vent can be
closed
GOOD ADVICE
- If the stove smokes or does not heat - check the following:
If the stove smokes or bums poorly the usual cause is a reduced chimney
draught.
1. If the stove is cold it might help to ignite some crumpled paper in the
cleaning door of the chimney before establishing a fire in the stove.
2. The chimney and/or the stove pipe may be obstructed.
3. If the 1430 is for the UK only, alter paragraph 3 of Good Advice to
read »The flue from your stove must not be shared by any other
appliance«.
4. Leaks in the chimney reduces the draught. Check the following:
that there are no leaks in the stove pipe.
that there are no leaks in the chimney itself, e.g. in the joints or
by the cleaning door.
that there are no unused (leaky) fireplaces or fuel stoves
connected to the chimney.
5. The ch
imney may be too low. The chimney has to be built according to the
local building code, which in most cases means that the top of the
chimney must rise at least 80 cm above the ridge of the roof. In any case
the chimney must be sufficiently high in order t
o obtain satisfactory
draught conditions and smoke disadvantages do not arise.
6. Large trees, neighbouring buildings, hills and other landscape conditions
may cause down-draught in the chimney.
The body of your Cleanheat Squirrel is covered by a condition
al extended
guarantee, detailed elsewhere. NOTE that the following measures must be
taken for the guarantee to be effective:
1. The stove most be ventilated when not in use for any notable length of
time. All ash must be removed and the ash pan door left
open by a
minimum of one inch, allowing the air to be drawn through the stove.
This will stop condensation settling and the rust forming on exposed
parts.
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2. Overfires must be avoided. Use only the primary air inlet and
secondary air inlet as the means of supplying airto the fire. Do
not leave them wide open after the first few minutes of firing a
fresh load. NEVER run the stove with the ashpan door open.
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