Mountain Models Bogie 72 User manual

Bogie 72™
Old Timer Electric Model
Little Bogie™ Specifications
Wingspan: 72.0 in.
Length: 39.0 in.
Wing Area: 655 sq. in.
Weight (Ready to Fly): 28 to 30 oz.
Wing Loading: 6.1 – 6.6 oz. / sq. ft.
Version 1.05, July 20, 2011

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WARRANTY
Mountain Models guarantees this kit to be free from any defects in both material and workmanship at the
time of purchase. This warranty does not cover ANY components or parts damaged by use or modification.
In no case shall Mountain Model’s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Mountain Models
reserves the right to modify or change this warranty without notice.
LIABILITY RELEASE
In that Mountain Models has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no
liability shall be assumed or accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-
assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is
advised to return the kit immediately in new and unused condition.
THIS PRODUCT IS NOT INTENDED FOR CHILDREN 12 YEARS OF AGE OR YOUNGER.
WARNING: This product may contain chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and or
birth defects or other reproductive harm.
PRODUCT SUPPORT
This product has been designed to function properly and perform as advertised with the SUGGESTED power
system, speed control, and servos, as described in advertisements and in this manual. We do NOT support,
nor can Mountain Models assist in determining the suitability or use with any other electronics or hardware
not recommended by Mountain Models.
For the proper electronics to complete this model, replacement parts, and product assembly questions,
please contact Mountain Models online at www.MountainModels.com
The second plane in our Nostalgia line is the Bogie 72™. We took our "Little Bogie" cul-de-sac/small field
plane and redesigned it for a full 6 FOOT wing span! The Bogie 72™ will effortlessly fly on the Scorpion
2215-18 power system (~200 watts) and weighs under 2 pounds.
The Bogie 72™ is all laser cut and built from interlocking self-jigging balsa and plywood parts. It's like
putting together a 3D jigsaw puzzle with instructions. The wing tips of the Bogie 72™ are removable to
easier transportation in small vehicles.
Slow and Gentle are the 2 best words for describing the flight characteristics of the Bogie 72™. We think
that anyone who enjoys the look and easy to fly characteristics of the "old Timer" style models will
thoroughly enjoy the Bogie 72™. The Bogie 72™ also thermals VERY well, with it's light wing loading and
size, so those looking to throttle back and float around the sky, riding the currents will have no trouble
doing so.
The Bogie 72™ gives you a large parkflyer to enjoy in smaller spaces, as well as larger club fields. A few
evenings of a pleasurable building experience will have the structure completed and ready to cover. A
detailed manual with 3D CAD drawings that are easy to understand makes the build as simple as possible.
We think you’ll like the Bogie 72™ and look forward to any feedback you might have.
Thank you,
Brian Eberwein
Mountain Models
2935 N Lynndale Dr
Appleton, WI 54914
www.mountainmodels.com
Phone: [phone]

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Before You Begin
Check to make sure that all of your parts are there and in good shape.
Parts List
Number
in Kit Description of Part
Bundled Parts
1Laser Cut Parts
2Plan Sheet (24” x 48”)
1These instructions of course!
Metal, Etc Material
20.045” x 26” Wire
11/8”x 18”Wire
1Pushrod Housing (Yellow) x 15”
1Pushrod Housing (Yellow) x 21”
Bagged Parts
13/16” Basswood elevator joiner
2Carbon Fiber Flat (1mmx3mm) x 1.75”
2Carbon Fiber Tube (1/8” Diameter) x 2.0”
11/8” Dowel x 5”
94-40 T-Nuts
84-40 x 3/8” Phillips Head Screws
14-40 x 5/8” Phillips Head Screw
4DuBro 1/8” Wheel Collars
2DuBro Micro Servo Connectors
83/16” Dia x 3/32” Magnets
21/4” Dia x 0.1” Magnets
2DuBro Control Horns (2-Pin)
2DuBro 2” SL Wheels
1Double Sided Velcro Seatbelt
1Sticky Backed Velcro
10 Rubber Bands
Building Materials and Tools You Will Need
•Smooth and FLAT work surface
•Wax paper or clear plastic wrap to protect the work surface
•Thin Cyanoacrylate (CA) glue
•5 Minute Epoxy
•Hobby knife with #11 blades
•Needle nose pliers
•Wire bender or pliers for bending pushrod wires
•Wire cutters
•Screwdrivers
•Sanding block, 320 to 400 grit sandpaper
•Sewing Needle, Small
•Covering Iron

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Finishing Materials You Will Need
•Covering material (SoLite, 2 to 3 rolls)
Electronics You Will Need
•3channel radio minimum
•4 channel receiver (Berg 4L or Spektrum 6110e)
•2 ea. Hitec HS-65 servos
•Scorpion 2215-18 Outrunner
•APC 10x5 APC Prop
•20 Amp ESC
•3S-1350 LiPo
General Building Tips
•READ THE INSTRUCTIONS all the way through and study the plans BEFORE starting any
work on the model.
•PRE-SANDING: BEFORE removing any parts from the balsa sheets, use a sanding block
with 320 grit sandpaper and lightly sand the back of the balsa sheets. Our balsa suppliers
have been sending us wood that is over sized, so sanding the backs of the balsa sheets
reduces the thickness just slightly and removes any charring from the laser cutting process.
•Tape the plans to your nice clean work surface and cover it with wax paper or plastic wrap.
You want to keep your work surface clean and not glue the parts to the plans, right?
•Balsa is a lightweight and fragile wood, so you do need to be careful with it; however, you
will also need to use a little bit of force to make everything fit properly, so don’t be too
timid.
•Do not remove any pieces from the balsa sheets until they’re ready to be used. That way,
parts won’t get mixed up or disappear.
•Do NOT glue anything until told to do so.
•Join all of your pieces using thin CA (Cyanoacrylate) glue, unless we tell you otherwise. In
general, only a small amount of CA is necessary to glue parts together.
•Don’t over force your pieces together. If they aren’t fitting together properly, make sure you
have the right pieces and that they are oriented correctly. If needed, you can lightly sand
the part to fit after making sure it is the correct part and oriented correctly. On balsa “tabs”,
you can “pinch” the wood with your fingers to get them to fit in slots. (The tabs might be
tighter some times, due to tolerances in wood thickness)
•If you want to remove the charred edges caused by the laser cutting process, lightly
dampen a cloth with bleach and gently rub the affected areas. Removing the char will not
increase the strength but will make it look better. It also keeps that dark edge from showing
under the lightweight coverings.

STEP 3: Sand the pylon, as
shown in the image to the
right. Do not round the bottom
edges of the pylon, as these
should be left "sharp" to line
up with the top fuselage sheet
when it is later applied.
STEP 2: Glue the 1/8" plywood and 3/16"
balsa pylon parts together. Use the 18"
dowels (cut the18" dowel into 1/2"
lengths) through the holes to make sure
that the parts are properly aligned
BEFORE the glue sets. You can use
thick CA if you are careful. Or, you can
use a 5-minute epoxy or white glue to
give you more working time.
STEP 1: Glue the 316" balsa pylon parts together.
They are labeled A and B for each side. Every other
part will be "upside down" for better parts fit. These
parts are shown below with x's in them.

STEP 4: Glue the 332" Balsa parts for the fuselage
sides, top, and bottom together, as shown below,
with thin CA.
STEP 6: Now is the best time
to cover the pylon. Covering
the pylon AFTER assembly is
much harder to do, though it is
still possible.
STEP 5: Test fit the pylon into the fuselage top
sheet. Sand the sides of the pylon, if necessary, so it
fits through the slot smoothly.
STEP 7: Install 4 ea. 4-40 T-Nuts into the
BACK of the Firewall. Make sure they
are fully pressed in place and flat. Secure
the outside edges with thin CA, but make
sure not to get any CA in the threads.

F1
F2
STEP 8: Press the 1/8" Lt. Ply
F1 part onto the pylon (with
the engraved text to the
FRONT) and then press the
pylon assembly onto the
crutch. The engraved "TOP"
on the crutch should, of course,
be on the top. Do NOT glue
them together yet.
STEP 9: Press the 1/8" Lt. Ply
F2 onto the crutch/pylon
assembly (with the engraved
text to the FRONT) and press
the firewall onto the
crutch/pylon assembly. (with
the engraved text to the front,
and T-nuts in the BACK) Do
NOT glue them together yet.

STEP 10: Press the sides onto the
pylon/crutch assembly. Holding
everything together, making
SURE that all parts are fully
pressed into place, secure all
joints with some thin CA. Do
NOT glue the fuselage sides
together at the rear.
STEP 11: Press the 3/32" balsa
F3, F4, and F5 formers into the
fuselage sides with the engraved
TEXT FACING FORWARD. Do
NOT glue them in place yet.
F3 F4 F5

F6
F6B
STEP 12: Slide the balsa fuselage
top over the crutch and into place
on all the formers and fuselage
sides. Press the 3/32" balsa F6
and F6B parts in place.
STEP 13: Press the 3/32" balsa
hatch shelf in place. MAKE
SURE that it is fully pressed into
place and glue it with thin CA.
After it is glued in place, remove
the inside of it, using an X-Acto
to trim on the engraved lines.
STEP 14: Press the balsa fuselage
bottom in place and then remove
the front hatch. MAKE SURE
that all the fuselage parts are
pressed fully in place against
each other and start securing all
the joints with thin CA. Work a
little at a time, making sure not
to twist the fuse when gluing it
together.

STEP 15: Glue the 3/32" balsa hatch onto the 3/32" balsa hatch braces, as
shown. Use thick CA or a slower setting glue. Use a weight to hold the bend in
the hatch while the glue dries. Glue in the 1/16" plywood hatch latches in place,
as shown. Glue 1 magnet in place, as shown, flush with the bottom of the hatch.
STEP 16: Glue the 1/16" balsa tail
skid parts onto the 1/16" plywood
tail skid. Make sure you have them
lined up properly.
STEP 17: Glue the 3/32" balsa tail
center parts together, as shown. Use
the holes and 1/8" dowel to properly
align the parts.
STEP 18: Glue the 1/8" Lt. Ply
landing gear mount parts together.
Make usre the outside edges are
aligned.

STEP 19: Glue the 1/8" Lt. Ply
landing gear mount assembly onto
the firewal, as shown. Make sure
that the holes line up!
STEP 20: Install and glue the
pushrod housings, in the fuselage, in
the locations shown on the plan
sheet.
W1
W1
STEP 22: Glue together the two
3/16" balsa W1 ribs, as shown
below. Use the holes and 1/8"
dowels to align the parts.
STEP 21: Glue together the 1/16"
balsa WS1 parts, as shown below.

STEP 24: Repeat step 23, using the W18 and W18P parts. Once again, MAKE
SURE you make a left AND right side.
W17P W17W17P W17
STEP 23: Glue together one 3/32" balsa W17 and one 1/32" plywood W17P
parts together, using the 1/8" holes and 1/8" dowels for alignment. Repeat this,
with the plywood on the OTHER side, so you have a left AND right.
STEP 25: Press WS1 into W24, as shown below. MAKE SURE you use the
right side of W24, so the ribs line up with the notches in W24. Also, do not
forve the fit. If it's a bit tight, "pinch" the balsa tabs and then they'll fit better.
Slide the ribs onto the main Spar, as shown below. The plywood side of W17
goes towards the OUTSIDE. Do NOT glue them yet.
W24
WS1
W1 W2
W3 W4 W5 W6
W17

STEP 26: Press the 1/8" balsa trailing edge, W37 in place. Make sure the ribs
are pressed all the way into the slots. Do not glue it yet. Press the 1/8" balsa
W25 spar cap in place. Do NOT glue it yet.
W37
W25
STEP 27: Press the 1/16" balsa half ribs in place, as shown below. Make sure
W14 is pressed fully into the trailing edge. Do not glue them in place yet.
W12 W13 W15 W16
W14

STEP 28: Press the 1/16" balsa leading edge support, W28 in place. Do this just
a little at a time on each rib. work from one end to the other and then back again.
Sliding it in just a little at a time keeps you from breaking it. Slide the 3/16"
balsa leading edge, W29 in place, followed by W30. Double check that all the
parts in the wing are fully inserted and then secure all the joints with thin CA.
STEP 29: Press the 3/32" balsa turbulators, W40, W41, and W42 in place. Make
sure that the recessed area on them is at the center of the wing, as these alow the
sheeting to fit over them. Glue these parts in place with thin CA. Slide the 1/8"
balsa W46 in place, through the ribs, as shown below and on the plans. Secure
with thin CA.
W28
W29
W30
W40
W41
W42
W46

STEP 30: Glue the 1/16" plywood WJ1 in place, as shown below. Do NOT get
extra glue inside this part, as the wing joiner slides in here. Glue the 1/16"
plywood WJ2 on the back of WJ1, once again, being VERY careful to not get
glue inside the joiner area.
WJ1
WJ2
STEP 31: Repeat steps 25 through 30 for the other half of the center wing panel.
STEP 32: Glue the 1/16" balsa W36A and W36B parts together, and the W35A
and W35B parts together. With one wing panel flat on the table, set the other
wing tip at 1-78" fromt he table to the bottom of the rib. Glue the center sheeting
in place, as shown below.
W36A/B
W36C
W35C
W35A/B

STEP 33: Press WS2 into W26, as shown below. MAKE SURE you use the
right side of W26, so the ribs line up with the notches in W26. Also, do not
forve the fit. If it's a bit tight, "pinch" the balsa tabs and then they'll fit better.
Slide the ribs onto the main Spar, as shown below. The plywood side of W17
goes towards the OUTSIDE. Press the ribs into the 1/8" trailing edge, W38. Do
NOT glue them yet.
W38
W26
WS2
W18/P
W7 W8 W9
W10
W11
STEP 34 Press the 1/8" balsa W27 spar cap in place. Do NOT glue it yet. Press
the 1/16" balsa half ribs, W19 to W22, in place, as shown below. Do not glue
them in place yet.
W21
W19 W20 W22 W23
W27