Mountain Models Little Bogie User manual

Little Bogie™
Mini Old Timer Electric Model
Little Bogie™Specifications
Wingspan: 36.0 in.
Length: 19.4 in.
Wing Area: 164 sq. in.
Weight (Ready to Fly): 4.2 to 4.5 oz.
Wing Loading:3.7 –4.0 oz. /sq. ft.
Version 1.0, April 4, 2010

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WARRANTY
Mountain Models guarantees this kit to be free from any defects in both material and workmanship at the
time of purchase. This warranty does not cover ANY components or parts damaged by use or modification.
In no case shall Mountain Model’s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Mountain Models
reserves the right to modify or change this warranty without notice.
LIABILITY RELEASE
In that Mountain Models has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no
liability shall be assumed or accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-
assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is
advised to return the kit immediately in new and unused condition.
THIS PRODUCT IS NOT INTENDED FOR CHILDREN 12 YEARS OF AGE OR YOUNGER.
WARNING: This product may contain chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and or
birth defects or other reproductive harm.
PRODUCT SUPPORT
This product has been designed to function properly and perform as advertised with the SUGGESTED power
system, speed control, and servos, as described in advertisements and in this manual. We do NOT support,
nor can Mountain Models assist in determining the suitability or use with any other electronics or hardware
not recommended by Mountain Models.
For the proper electronics to complete this model, replacement parts, and product assembly questions,
please contact Mountain Models online at www.MountainModels.com
Thank you for purchasing the Mountain Models Little Bogie™. The Little Bogie™is a small model designed
to bring back that nostalgic feeling of yesteryear, in a small field electric package. Taking inspiration from
many different free flight planes of the past, we developed the 36 inch Little Bogie™, which resulted in a
super lightweight, nostalgic, and relaxingly smooth flying plane.
The Little Bogie™ was designed using a state of the art 3D CAD package, to allow for exceptional
interlocking parts design and fit. 3D design also allows us to provide clearer assembly images, without
having to use photos.
The Little Bogie™ is built from self-jigging interlocking laser cut balsa and plywood parts. It's like a 3D jigsaw
puzzle with instructions. Although not needed for building, full size plans are included for reference. If the
instructions are read before hand and followed during the build, the Little Bogie™ can be built up and ready to fly
in only a few evenings.
We think you’ll like the Little Bogie™ and look forward to any feedback you might have.
Thank you,
Brian Eberwein
Mountain Models
PO Box 9557
Colorado Springs, CO 80932
www.mountainmodels.com
Phone: [phone]

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Before You Begin
Check to make sure that all of your parts are there and in good shape.
Parts List
Number
in Kit Description of Part
Bundled Parts
1Laser Cut Parts (See wood inventory sheet)
1Plan Sheet (24” x 36”)
1These instructions of course!
Metal (on the back of the wood bundle)
20.025” x 18” Wire
21/16” Pre-bent landing gear wire
Bagged Parts
13/32” Basswood elevator joiner
4#2 x1/4”Motor mount screws
2DuBro black wheel keepers and set screws
1Velcro, sticky backed, 2”
2Wheels
1CF Rod, 0.060” x 1-5/8”
2DuBro Micro Servo Connectors
11/8” x 2-1/2” Dowel
2Magnets, 1/8” diameter, 1/16” thick
2DuBro control horn
1Spider Wire, 4 Feet
1Aluminum tube, 3/32” diameter x 3/4”
Building Materials and Tools You Will Need
•Smooth and FLAT work surface
•Wax paper or clear plastic wrap to protect the work surface
•Thin Cyanoacrylate (CA) glue
•5 Minute Epoxy
•Hobby knife with #11 blades
•Needle nose pliers
•Wire bender or pliers for bending pushrod wires
•Wire cutters
•Screwdrivers
•Sanding block, 320 to 400 grit sandpaper
•Sewing Needle, Small
•Covering Iron
Finishing Materials You Will Need
•Covering material (SoLite, 1 roll)

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Electronics You Will Need
•3channel radio minimum
•4 channel mini receiver (Berg 4L or Spektrum 6110e)
•2 ea. 3.7 gram servos (Power HD 1370A or Mountain Models 3.7)
•D1811-2000 10 gram Outrunner
•GWS 6030 HD Prop
•Feigao or Mountain Models 6Amp, 6 gram ESC
•Rhino or PolyQuest 2S-360 LiPo
General Building Tips
•READ THE INSTRUCTIONS all the way through and study the plans BEFORE starting any
work on the model.
•PRE-SANDING: BEFORE removing any parts from the balsa sheets, use a sanding block
with 320 grit sandpaper and lightly sand the back of the balsa sheets. Our balsa suppliers
have been sending us wood that is over sized, so sanding the backs of the balsa sheets
reduces the thickness just slightly and removes any charring from the laser cutting process.
•Tape the plans to your nice clean work surface and cover it with wax paper or plastic wrap.
You want to keep your work surface clean and not glue the parts to the plans, right?
•Balsa is a lightweight and fragile wood, so you do need to be careful with it; however, you
will also need to use a little bit of force to make everything fit properly, so don’t be too
timid.
•Do not remove any pieces from the balsa sheets until they’re ready to be used. That way,
parts won’t get mixed up or disappear.
•Do NOT glue anything until told to do so.
•Join all of your pieces using thin CA (Cyanoacrylate) glue, unless we tell you otherwise. In
general, only a small amount of CA is necessary to glue parts together.
•Don’t over force your pieces together. If they aren’t fitting together properly, make sure you
have the right pieces and that they are oriented correctly. If needed, you can lightly sand
the part to fit after making sure it is the correct part and oriented correctly. On balsa “tabs”,
you can “pinch” the wood with your fingers to get them to fit in slots. (The tabs might be
tighter some times, due to tolerances in wood thickness)
•If you want to remove the charred edges caused by the laser cutting process, lightly
dampen a cloth with bleach and gently rub the affected areas. Removing the char will not
increase the strength but will make it look better. It also keeps that dark edge from showing
under the lightweight coverings.

E3
E1
E4
E2
E5
W14
W13
W12
W11
W10
W11 W12
W13 W14
W2
W3
W4
W5
W6
W7
W8
W9
W9
W8
W7
W6
W5
W4
W3
W2
W10
E5
E2
W17
W1
W15
F3
F4
F5A
W15
W1
W17
E4
E1
E3
F6
R3 R4
V2
V9 V6
V8
V5
V7
F5B
FRONT
P4
F3
F3
P4
WOOD INVENTORY SHEET

STEP 1: Bend the landing gear, as shown on the plan
sheet. It has already been bent to shape, but you must
still add the second bend, so the landing gear legs are
bent forward.
STEP 2: Fasten the landing gear to the 116"
plywood firewall. MAKE SURE that the
engraved text of the firewall is facing
FORWARD. Thread a needle with the included
Spider Wire and "sew" the landing gear onto the
firewall. Start at the bottom of one side and
continue to the other. Then, go back to the
starting point, so there is a "double wrap".
Secure the thread with thin CA.
STEP 3: Glue the 116" plywood and 116"
balsa pylon parts together. Use the 18"
dowels (cut the 18" dowel into 3/4"
lengths) through the holes to make sure
that the parts are properly aligned
BEFORE the glue sets. You can use
thick CA if you are careful. Or, you can
use a 5-minute epoxy or white glue to
give you more working time.
STEP 4: Sand the pylon, as
shown in the image to the
right. Do not round the bottom
edges of the pylon, as these
should be left "sharp" to line
up with the top fuselage sheet
when it is later applied.

STEP 5: Test fit the pylon into
the fuselage top sheet. Sand
the sides of the pylon, if
necessary, so it fits through the
slot smoothly.
STEP 6: Now is the best time
to cover the pylon. Covering
the pylon AFTER assembly is
much harder to do, though it is
still possible.
STEP 7: Press the 3/32" balsa
F1 part onto the pylon (with
the engraved text to the
FRONT) and then press the
pylon assembly onto the
crutch. The engraved "TOP"
on the crutch should, of course,
be on the top. Do NOT glue
them together yet.
F1

STEP 8: Press the 3/32" balsa
F2 onto the crutch/pylon
assembly (with the engraved
text to the FRONT) and press
the firewall onto the
crutch/pylon assembly. (with
the engraved text to the front)
Do NOT glue them together
yet.
F2

STEP 9: Press the 1/16"
balsa sides onto the
pylon/crutch assembly.
Holding everything
together, making SURE
that all parts are fully
pressed into place, secure
all joints with some thin
CA. Do NOT glue the
fuselage sides together at
the rear.
STEP 10: Press the 1/16" balsa
F3 and F4 formers into the
fuselage sides with the engraved
TEXT FACING FORWARD. Be
sure that the formers are fully
inserted into the fuselage sides
and secure with thin CA.
F3
F4

STEP 11: Slide the 1/16" balsa
fuselage top over the crutch and
into place on all the formers and
fuselage sides. Glue the top in
place using thin CA. Press the
1/16" balsa F5A and F5B parts in
place and secure them with thin
CA.
STEP 12: Press the 1/16" balsa
hatch shelf in place. MAKE
SURE that it is fully pressed into
place and glue it with thin CA.
After it is glued in place, remove
the inside of it, using an X-Acto
to trim on the engraved lines.
F5A
F5B

STEP 13: Press the 1/16" balsa
fuselage bottom in place and then
remove the front hatch. AFTER
removing the hatch, glue the
fuselage bottom in place using
thin CA.
STEP 14: Glue the 1/16" balsa hatch onto the
1/16" balsa hatch braces, as shown. Use thick CA
or a slower setting glue. Use a weight to hold the
bend in the hatch while the glue dries. Glue in the
1/16" plywood hatch latches in place, as shown.
Glue 1 magnet in place, as shown, flush with the
bottom of the hatch.

STEP 15: Laminate the 1/64" plywood trailing edge reinforcement part onto the 1/16" balsa W18A trailing
edge part. It should be aligned with the trailing edge and the engraved line at the root area. Use a slower
setting glue, such as thinned 5 minute epoxy or white glue, weigh the parts down to MAKE SURE that it is
flat when the glue dries. Repeat for the other wing, BE SURE to make a LEFT and RIGHT! Use the plans so
you do not accidentally make 2 lefts or 2 rights.
STEP 16: Slide the 1/8" balsa W1 and 1/16" balsa W2, W3, W4, W5, W6, W7, W8, W9, and
W10 onto the 1/16" balsa wing spar bottom, WS1 and the trailing edge. Make sure that the ribs
are FULLY seated in the trailing edge. Do NOT glue the parts together yet.
STEP 17: Slide the 1/16" balsa spar top, WS2 in place, as shown. The engraving on WS2 should
be facing the opposite way of the engraving on WS1. Do NOT glue the parts together yet. Why?
Because the laser actually cuts a very very slight angle in the parts and this makes sure that there
is complete contact between the parts for a stronger bond.
STEP 18: Press the 1/16" balsa half-ribs, W11 to W14, in place. Do NOT glue yet.

STEP 19: Slide the 1/16" balsa leading edge support parts, W15 and W16 in place in the ribs, as
shown. Do NOT glue anything yet.
STEP 20: Slide the 1/8" balsa leading edge in place over the leading edge support, as shown.
Keep the wing FLAT and straight by using some weight of some kind. OK, you've been reaching
for the CA bottle every step and being told to put it down. Now, you can pick it up! Use thin CA
and secure all joints. MAKE SURE that all of the parts are fully pressed together before gluing
though.
STEP 21: Slide the 1/16" balsa wing tip, W19 in place and secure with thin CA.
STEP 22: Repeat steps 16 through 21 to build the other wing half.

STEP 23: Sand off the parts overhanging the wing
root, so they are flush with the center rib, on each
wing. Do NOT sand into the rib itself. Why did we
make you build the wing in halves, instead of 1
piece? We did it so you could more easily modify it
for a 2-piece wing if you desired to do so. (And
other reasons that are top secret at the moment…)
STEP 24: Sand the wing leading
edge to the profile shown. To
prevent the sandpaper from
digging into the ribs and breaking
them, put some blue painters tape
across the ribs to protect them.
Finish sand the rest of the wing
with 320 or 400 grit sandpaper.
STEP 25: Cut the included 1/8" dowel in half. Join the
wings, using a THIN layer of 5-minute epoxy. The dowels
are used for aligning the wings. MAKE SURE that the
wing panels are lined up before the glue dries. You can
use some small clamps to hold the center ribs together.
With one wing flat, the other wingtip should be 4-18" above
the table.

STEP 26: Protect the plans
by laying down clear plastic
wrap over them. Build the
tails over the plans, using
thin CA on all the joints.
STEEL
RULER
STEEL
RULER
SANDING
BLOCK
STEP 27: Lightly sand the
tail parts. You can round the
OUTSIDE edges of the parts
if you'd like, for a nicer
looking finished model.
STEP 28: Sand a bevel in the
elevator and rudder, as
shown. The easiest way to do
this is by placing a metal
straight edge below the part,
and one on top of the part.
That way, you don't end up
with a wavy hinge line.
TOP VIEW OF RUDDER
SIDE VIEW OF ELEVATOR
TOP OF
ELEVATOR

STEP 30: Install the servos,
ESC, and Receiver BEFORE
covering the fuselage. It's
easier to do that now than after
it's covered. Reference the
plans for the proper location
of the components and where
the wires are routed. Secure
the Receiver with double sided
tape. If you use a different
ESC than what is
reccomended, you may have
to enlarge the hole in the
firewall to get it in.
STEP 29: Lightly finish sand all of the fuselage parts with 320 or 400 grit
sandpaper. Rounding off the corners makes it look better when it's covered. Also
remove the 116" plywood pylon parts and the 332" F6 part that are still in the parts
sheets and sand them as well.
STEP 33: Cover all the parts with a lightweight covering film, such as So-Lite. Do
NOT use heavier films such as MonoKote, UltraCote SolarCote, etc., as the
shrinkage of these films can damage the lightweight structure of this model. They
also add a lot more weight, which you absolutely do not want. If you have not
covered a model before, please read the instructions that come with your covering.
You'll need to poke a hole in the covering for the fuselage top, for the rudder pushrod
to go through.
If you have covered with it before, tissue also looks GREAT on this model.
STEP 31: Bend the control rods, as shown on the
plans. The ones shown here are NOT TO SCALE.
STEP 32: Insert the pushrods through the back end, as shown on the plans, with the Z-bends end at
the back of the fuselage. Tape the pushrods to the inside of the fuselage to keep them from coming
loose until they are needed.

STEP 34: Remove any covering from the
parts where they contact and will be
glued to other parts, with a SHARP
X-Acto blade, being careful not to cut
into the wood itself.
STEP 35: Glue the pylon parts together, using thick
CA or a thin application of 5-minute epoxy. The
"flat" plywood parts that the wing sits on should be
lined up and even with the back of the trailing edge,
as shown.
STEP 36: Glue the 332" balsa F6 to the fuselage, as
shown above.
STEP 37: Glue the 116"balsa tail skid, F7, to the
fuselage, as shown. Make sure it is perpendicular to
the fuselage.
STEP 38: Test fit the
remaining magnet in the hole
in the fuselage hatch shelf.
Lightly sand the inside of the
hole if needed. Then, place
that magnet on the magnet
that is already glued into the
hatch. Mark the side of the
magnet that is showing with a
pen. This is so you do NOT
glue it in backwards (reversed
polarity).
STEP 39: Glue the magnet into
the fuselage hatch shelf,
MAKING SURE YOU CAN
NOT SEE the mark you placed
on it earlier (for proper polarity).
The magnet should be glued
flush to the shelf. Stiffen up the
wood around the magnet with
some thin CA.

STEP 40: Trim ONE of the
plastic control horns as shown.
This is for the elevator, so it
clears the fuselage bottom.
STEP 41: Glue the plastic
control horns into the rudder
and elevator, as shown.
STEP 42: Trim off the ends
of the ribbed control horn
post to be flush with the
control surface.
Hinge line
Hinge line

STEP 43: Insert the elevator control horn
through the hole in the fuselage top and slide it
onto the elevator pushrod Z-bend. This can be
a bit tricky, but take it slowly and you'll get it.
Alternatively, you could pull the pushrod out
through the hole with some needle nose pliers,
hook up the elevator control horn, and then
press it back into the fuselage.
STEP 44: Glue the vertical fin to
the stab, making sure that the fin
is perpendicular to the stab and
is fully seated. You can use thick
CA or a THIN application of
epoxy. The 2 tabs on the vertical
will be sticking out the bottom
of the stab. These tabs will
properly align the stabilizer to
the fuselage.
STEP 45: Glue the stabilizer/vertical fin
assembly to the fuselage, making sure it is level
on the fuselage. You can use thick CA or a
THIN application of epoxy. MAKE sure the
vertical fin is aligned, vertically, with the pylon.

STEP 46: Hinge the elevator to the stabilizer
with tape. You can use average clear packing
tape or Blenderm. Keep the elevator in the down
position and straight while applying the tape, so
you get a full range of movement once it's
complete.
TAPE
STEP 47: Hinge the rudder
to the vertical with tape,
the same way you did the
elevator.
Elevator at full
deflection.
STEP 48: Cut the 0.060"
Carbon rod in half. Glue
each half into the slot in the
pylon with a SMALL
amount of epoxy.
Carbon Rods