Mountain Models Magpie User manual

Magpie
Foam Trainer
Magpie Specifications
Length: 34in.
Wingspan (SF): 46in. Wing Area (SF): 414in2
Wingspan (SP): 40in. Wing Area (SP): 360in2
Weight (without battery): 12oz.
Thank you for purchasing the Magpie. The SF or Slow Fly model is an elevator/rudder setup,
designed for the beginner pilot who wants a robust trainer. The SP or Sport model also has
ailerons for the pilot who wants to step up to the next level of flying. The wings are
interchangeable. Built properly, the Magpie should survive the majority of crashes you are likely
to experience learning to fly.
Sincerely, Mountain Models
DougBinder
[email protected] P.O. Box 9557
Colorado Springs, CO 80932
www.mountainmodels.com
Phone: [phone]
Last updated Dec 19, 2004

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Before You Begin
Before you begin building your Magpie, make sure you read and understand all of the
instructions thoroughly.
Additionally, you will need to have the following items.
What You Will Need
•Smooth and flat work surface
•Wax paper to protect the plans
•Thin Cyanoacrylate (CA) glue
•Foam Safe Glue – 5 minute epoxy, white glue, or foam safe medium CA. We
recommend a tube of 5 minute epoxy.
•Hobby knife with #11 blades
•Needle nose pliers
•Wire cutters
•Sanding block with 200 grit sandpaper
•2" packing tape or wing tape for covering the wings and fuselage
•3M77 spray adhesive
•3 channel radio/4 channel for SP wing.
•GWS EPS350C-C motor
•2 micro servos (3 for the SP)(we recommend either the Hitec HS55s, GWS Pico,
Naro)
•Electronic Speed Control (ESC) capable of handling at least 10 amps
•KAN650 battery pack or 1000mAH or higher 2S LiPoly battery
Parts List
Quantity Description of Part
Wood
1 1/32” Laser cut plywood sheet
4 1/16” Laser cut plywood sheet
Foam
2 Wing sections
2 Fuselage sections
5 Depron tail surfaces
Additional Parts
1 1/8” round x 7 3/16” hardwood dowel
2 1/8” round x 2.5” hardwood dowel
2 6” heat shrink tubing
1 6” Velcro strip for mounting the battery
1 150” Plastic strapping
2 1/32” x 18” thin music wire for the pushrods
1 3/32” x 18” landing gear wire
2 Wheels
2 Wheel retainers
1 #2 x 3/8” motor retaining screw

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Quantity Description of Part
Additional Parts for the SP wing
1 1/32” x 18” music wire
1 6” heat shrink tubing
1 88” Plastic strapping
1 1/16” plywood control horns sheet
1 1/32” plywood control horn reinforcement sheet
2 Depron ailerons
General Building Tips
•Use only foam safe glue to attach the foam sections. Regular CA will dissolve the
foam.
•Don’t remove any pieces from the balsa sheets until they’re ready to be used. That
way, parts won’t get mixed up or disappear.
•After you remove pieces from the balsa sheets, carefully remove any of the extra
material from where the piece was attached.
•Don’t over force your pieces together. If they aren’t going together properly, make
sure you have the right pieces and that they are oriented correctly.
•If you want to remove the charred edges caused by the laser cutting process,
dampen a cloth with bleach and gently rub the affected areas. Removing the char
will not increase the strength but will make it look better.
Assembly Instructions
Step 1: Assemble the Wing
The first thing you are going to assemble is the wing of your airplane. This involves
assembling the wing halves, attaching the spar strips, and then applying the packing tape.
Both the SF and SP wing build the same. The SP wing has less dihedral than the SF wing
and has ailerons. The ailerons will be covered later.
Do not let non-foam safe CA touch the foam. Regular CA will dissolve the foam.
1. Glue the wing halves together with 5 minute epoxy. You can hold them together
with tape while the glue sets. Be sure that the two halves line up correctly. Do not
worry about the dihedral angle. The wings are cut with the proper angle at the
factory.

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2. Install the spar. Measure and cut two lengths of 1/2" plastic strapping so that they
are the length of the wing. Sand the strapping to help the glue adhere. This is
very important. Lay a strip down on a sheet of wax paper and apply epoxy to the
strapping, ensuring that there is an even layer of epoxy with no dry areas. Lay the
strapping in the notch on the wing and apply a length of wing tape or packing tape
over the strapping to hold it in place. Install the second spar in the same manner.
Give the epoxy a chance to set up before moving on to the next step.
3. If you prefer, you may shape the wingtips. I like to cut a radius into the front of the
wingtip to give the wing a more sweeping look. This is also a good idea if you expect
to be crashing as it makes the wingtip stronger. Cut the radius with an xacto then
sand the cut even and rounded.
4. Glue the .75”x2”x1/64th plywood reinforcement plates to the center of the wing at
the leading edge and the trailing edge. These are to protect the wing from the rubber
bands.
Installing the servo plate (SP wing only)
Mount the aileron servo reinforcement plates so that they are centered on the wing joint and
the front plate is directly behind the strapping plastic. Separate the plates enough so that
your servo will fit between them with about 1/16” extra gap. Glue the plates with epoxy.
You may want to hold the plates in place while the glue sets.

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Covering the Wing
Next, you are going to cover the Magpie wing using either colored wing tape, or clear
packing tape. You can use additional colored tapes to give your wing detail.
Choosing a Pattern
Make sure you choose a high contrast pattern using at least two colors, with the darker
color on the bottom and the lighter color on top. This will help you differentiate up from
down and left from right. Try drawing your pattern out on paper before attempting it on
your wing.
Applying the Covering Tape
For the Magpie, we recommend using wing tape (a colored tape) which can be purchased
from Mountain Models or clear packing tape which can be purchased at many office supply
stores.
1. Lightly sand the entire wing. Remove all the dust or the tape will not adhere.
The adhesive spray is known to contain acetone which will eat foam. In order to
minimize the problems, you must have a clean nozzle emitting a fine mist, which is
kept a good distance away from the wing and moved quickly. Apply a very light
coating on the surfaces, allow some dry time, and then apply another light
coating, letting it evaporate a bit before bonding. The slight eating of the foam
ends up being part of the bond.
2. Spray the wing with 3M 77 and let it set for about 5 - 15 minutes, until it is tacky.
3. Reinforce the center of the wing where it will be held on with rubber bands. Do this by
laying down 4 strips of tape, 4” long on the top of the trailing edge of the wing,
overlapping the bottom of the wing by ½”. Do the same for the leading edge.

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4. Starting from the trailing edge, run a strip of tape across the length of one wing,
overlapping the center by one inch. The first strip should wrap around the trailing edge by
1/2". Continue laying down strips of tape to cover the bottom of your wings, overlapping
each piece by 1/4" or more. The tape should also extend past the wingtip where you will
wrap the tape around the tip before trimming.
Keeping your scissors or hobby knife clean is very important to the covering

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process. After every five to ten cuts, wipe your blade with a Windex dampened
paper towel. The residue from the tape can make clean cuts almost impossible
since the tape will stick to the blades and just rip instead of cut.
5. Repeat Step 3 for the rest of your wing.
You can use permanent markers to decorate your covering if you don't want to add
weight or covering complexity.
Smoothing out the Covering Tape (Optional)
Using a heat gun or hair dryer, you can carefully shrink the tape until you get a glassy
finish. This is not a required step, but will make the surface look more polished. Be very
careful as the tape can shrink enough to pull away from the adjoining tape. It is also very
easy to melt the foam. Start with the gun on a low setting and increase the heat till the
tape just starts to shrink. Too much heat is a bad thing.
1. Start shrinking the bottom of the wings first, beginning at the leading edge and moving
towards the trailing edge. Do the middle areas last.
2. Follow the heat gun's path using a covered hand (you can use a thick, clean sock or a
towel), pressing down firmly, smoothing the surface and allowing the tape to adhere to
the adhesive.
3. Once the bottom is done, shrink the top in the same fashion.
Step 2: Assemble the Fuselage
You will assemble the fuselage by first gluing the two fuselage halves together, adding
strapping plastic for reinforcement, sanding to shape, adding servo mounting plates, then
taping the fuselage. Follow along carefully as there are a few critical steps along the way.
1. Glue the two fuselage halves together. You can use epoxy, white glue, or foam safe CA.
Hold the fuselage halves together with tape till the glue sets. Take great care to keep the
fuselage straight.
2. The rear of the fuselage is tapered, making it difficult to apply the strapping plastic in the
next step as the fuselage will bend when you press down on the strapping plastic. If you
shim the back with the wedges that were cut from the rear fuselage, it will be much easier
to keep the fuselage straight.
3. Glue the two fuselage reinforcement straps into place. Measure and cut the 1/2" plastic
strapping so that it fits from the motor cutout to the tail. The strapping will be positioned
1.5” up from the bottom of the fuselage at the front of the fuselage, and 1.25” up from
the bottom of the fuselage at the rear of the fuselage. Glue as you did the wing spar and
hold the strapping down with wing tape or packing tape. Don’t forget to sand the
strapping plastic before you glue it. The tape can be removed when the epoxy is set.

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NOTE: This is your last chance to make sure your fuselage is straight. Sight along the top
of the fuselage from front to back and check for any curving. The strapping can correct a
curved fuselage but, if you are not careful, can make the fuselage curve.
4. Sand the fuselage to round the edges as shown in the photo below. Start with 220 grit
sandpaper and round the top and bottom. You will find it easer if you only sand in one
direction. I like to completely round the top and bottom but just a little is fine. You'll want
to sand outside as the foam dust will make quite a mess. Remove as much of the foam
dust as possible before continuing. DO NOT SAND THE WING SADDLE (The area
where the wing meets the fuselage).
5. Mount the rear servo reinforcement plates so that the elevator servo plates are 1/4" in
front of the horizontal stabilizer and the bottom of the plates are just above the plastic
strap. The rudder servo plates are just below the plastic strap. Separate the plates
enough so that your servos will fit between them with about 1/16” extra gap. Glue the
plates with an even layer of epoxy.

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6. Glue the two 1/16” plywood wing mounts to the fuselage. The wing mounts fit on either
side of the wing saddle and are raised up about 1/8”. They have an engraved line on
them to help align them to the fuselage. Ensure that the wing mounts are aligned with
each other or the wing will be crooked. You can use a straight edge to check for level.
Glue with epoxy.
7. Lightly spray the entire fuselage with 3M77 and completely tape the fuselage with wing
tape. I find it easiest to start with the bottom. To wrap the tape around compound
curves, you can make small slits in the tape along the curve and perpendicular to the
curve. Make sure to wrap completely around the rear of the fuselage. When you are done
taping, you will need to go back and cut the tape away from the horizontal stabilizer slot,
the motor mount slot, and the left side of the receiver hole (the opening under the wing
saddle.
8. Put a fresh blade in your xacto and cut out holes in your fuselage for your servos. You
will use the servo plates as a guide and cut the width of the slots 1/16" narrower than the
width of your servos. This will give the servos a nice tight fit. I like to not cut completely
through the fuselage and just work the foam out with a screwdriver. This is just for
looks.

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!Building and attaching the motor mount
There are two types of motor mounts provided: a GWS stick type mount and a
firewall type mount. If you use the GWS EPS motor, you will use the stick
mount. We will only describe the stick type mount as the firewall mount is quite
similar.
1. Glue the motor mount together with thin CA. Be sure that the glue is
completely dry before sliding the mount into the fuselage as the uncured CA
will dissolve the foam.
2. Ensure that a GWS type motor/gearbox will slide over the mount stick. You
may need to sand the motor stick a bit to get the motor on.
3. Slide the motor mount into the fuselage and tape it into place. One piece of
wing tape per side will hold the mount in nicely. In the photo, the mount is
not taped yet. You can angle the mount to the right before taping to give
the motor some right thrust. About 3 degrees should be right.

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Step 3: Assemble and Install the Stabilizer, Rudder, and Elevator
1. Glue the vertical stabilizer to the top rear of the fuselage, flush with the rear of the
fuselage. To make hinging the rudder easier, I prefer to offset the vertical stabilizer
to the left so that the left side of the stabilizer is in line with the left edge of the rear
of the fuselage. You will need to remove the tape from the fuselage where the
vertical stabilizer will be glued.
Vertical Stabilizer in line with left edge.
2. Cut a 45 degree bevel along the trailing edge of the horizontal stabilizer. This is so
that the elevator can deflect down without interfering with the horizontal stabilizer.
I like to use an xacto knife to cut the bevel. I lay a straight edge along the trailing
edge and angle the knife inward.
3. Join the two elevators together with the 7 3/16”dowel. Use the horizontal stabilizer
as a guide to set the distance between the two elevators. The outer tips of the
elevators should line up with the tips of the horizontal stabilizer. If you run the end

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of the dowel along the edge of the elevator where you will be gluing the dowel, you
will create a groove for the dowel to set in. Glue with epoxy. Ensure both elevators
remain flat while the glue dries. I find it helpful to hold the dowel on place with
packing tape as the glue dries.
4. With a sharp xacto and a straight edge, cut a 45 degree bevel in the leading edge of
the rudder. The bevel in the rudder will angle so that the furthest forward point (the
part that will be hinged to the fuselage) is on the left.
5. There are two control horn reinforcement plates. Slide a control horn into the plate
and epoxy the plate and horn to the top of the elevator into the provided slot. The
horn will be in the left elevator as shown in the above photo.
6. Follow the same procedure for the rudder horn. The rudder horn will be on the left
side of the rudder.
7. Tape the elevator to the horizontal stabilizer with packing tape so that, with the
hinge on top, the control horn slot is on the left elevator. The elevator should just
kiss the stab but should also be able to deflect 45 degrees or more in both
directions. In the photo, the horizontal stabilizer is installed in the fuselage. We will
do that later.

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8. If there is any doubt as to the strength of the tape hinge, you can flip the elevator
over onto the stab and hinge the other side of the joint.
9. Slide the horizontal stabilizer into the slot in the rear of the fuselage so the hinge is
facing up and glue with foam safe CA, white glue, or epoxy. Ensure that the
stabilizer is square to the fuselage.
10. Hinge the rudder to the rear of the fuselage the same way you hinged the elevator.
You will need one piece of tape below the rudder control horn, and another above
the elevator to the top of the rudder. The hinge will be on the left side of the
fuselage.
Step 4: Install the Elevator and Rudder Servos

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You should center your servos before you hook them up to the pushrods. To do
this: Connect your servo to your receiver, connect your ESC to your receiver, turn
on your transmitter, and then connect your batteries to your ESC. Your servos will
move to a neutral position, assuming all of your radio trims are set to zero (0).
1. Press the servos into the slots you made in the fuselage build. You will need servo
extension cables as your servo cables will not be long enough to reach the receiver.
You can either tape the cables to the side of the fuselage or cut a slot into the
fuselage as shallow as possible and press the wires into the slot. Close the slot up
with tape.
2. The pushrods are made from two pieces of 1/32" x 5.5” music wire with a Z bend on
one side. One Z bend goes in the servo horn and the other Z bend goes in the rudder
or elevator control horn. The two wires are joined with a piece of heat shrink tubing.
Be very careful shrinking the tubing as the foam melts easily. Once the pushrods
are adjusted to the correct length, where the servo horn is centered and the tail
surface is straight back, carefully place a drop of thin CA on the end of the heat
shrink so that it will wick into the tubing. This creates a very strong joint.
3. If you have the SF wing, skip ahead to the next section.
4. cut a 45 degree bevel in the ailerons, ensuring that you make a right and a left
aileron (the bevel is on the opposite side on one). Using packing tape as a hinge,
attach the ailerons to the wings so that the outer edge of the ailerons are flush with
the outer edge of the wings.
5. Glue the control horn reinforcement plates and control horns into the top of the
ailerons.
6. Cut out a hole for the aileron servo as you did with the other two servos. The hole
can go through the wing to get the servo wire out the bottom of the wing.
7. Make up two more pushrods as you did above but cut the wire to 4.5”. Attach as
shown.
8. The ailerons should be aligned so that they are halfway between the top curve of the
wing and the bottom.

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Step 5: Install the Wing
1. Slide the two 1/8” x 2.5” dowels through the holes in one wing mount, through the
fuselage, and through the hole in the other wing mount. You will probably not need
to glue the dowels in place.
2. Set the wing on the mount and secure it with 6 rubber bands.
Step 6: Install the Motor
You will need:
•Motor/gearbox (not provided with kit)
•#2 x 3/8” motor retaining screw (Bagged Parts)
!Installing the Motor
1. Slide the motor over the motor mount stick and slide the motor as far back as possible.
2. Using a small drill bit or the tip of an xacto, start a hole in the side of the gearbox for the
motor retaining screw. Screw in the motor retaining screw and then install the propeller.
If you are using a GWS propeller, make sure the print on the blades is facing
forward.
Step 7: Install the Receiver and Speed Controller
We are not going to cover the receiver and speed controller (ESC) specific information,
please refer to your manufacturer’s instructions for more information, if necessary.
Attaching the Receiver
•The receiver is positioned in the cutout in the fuselage below the wing. Connect the
servos and ESC to the receiver, following the guides on the receiver itself. The
channel that you plug the ESC and servos into are dependent on the transmitter.
For example, a Hitec transmitter uses channel one for the rudder (or aileron if you
have the SP wing), channel two is elevator, and channel three is the throttle. Other
brand transmitters may assign channels differently.
•Once the receiver is installed, you can close the fuselage opening with some wing
tape.

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Attaching the ESC
•The speed controller (ESC) is attached to the side the fuselage with the supplied
Velcro. Do not make a cutout in the fuselage for the ESC as the ESC must be
exposed to the air for cooling. Connect the battery to and the motor to the ESC,
following the guides on the controller itself.
Step 8: Finishing the Kit
Well, you’re almost there…the end is in sight; just a few more steps and you can go flying,
assuming the weather is cooperating.
Setting the Center of Gravity
The Center of Gravity (CG) will affect how the airplane recovers from a nose up or nose
down condition (pitch stability). With the CG too far forward, the plane will be quite stable,
but require a lot of up elevator to fly level. This will result in an increased low end speed. On
the other hand, too far back and the plane will be hard to control, requiring constant input
to keep the plane flying straight and level. Set the CG .25”-.5” behind the rear of the wing
spar. You adjust the CG by moving the battery as follows.
Attaching the Battery (LiPolys)
1. Cut the rough side of the Velcro strip down to 3" in length, and then attach it to the side of
the fuselage.
2. Attach the soft side of the Velcro strip to the side of your battery pack.
Attaching the Battery (NiMH)
1. First you need to find out where the battery needs to be to balance the plane. Set the
battery on the plane and position it such that the plane balances properly. This must be
done with the plane completely ready to fly with everything installed.
2. Once the battery position has been determined, you can cut a hole in the side of the
fuselage to hold the battery. The hole should be slightly snug to keep the battery secure.
Use a sharp xacto blade to cut the hole.
Setting the Control Throws
You need to adjust your radio trim so that the elevator, rudder, and ailerons are all level.
The throws are as follows:
Low Rates High Rates
Elevator +-.5 inch +-1 inch
Rudder +-.75 inch +-1.25 inch
Ailerons (SP) +-.5 inch +-1 inch
If you are new to flying, set up your controls so that the maximum deflections measured
from the furthest point back on the control surface, are what is specified in the low rates
column. The plane will be fairly gentle set up as such. If you are brand new to flying and
will be teaching yourself, you might want to set the rudder throws to +- .5” and the elevator
to about 3/8”. These soft controls will help to keep you from over controlling.

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Setting the Lateral Balance
The lateral balance is along the length of the airplane. If you mount the battery on one side
of the fuselage, the balance will be off. You can easily check the balance by resting the
propeller shaft on a finger and gently lifting the rudder with your other hand such that the
airplane is completely off the ground. If the plane rocks to one side, the balance is off. I
found that, on my Magpie, a quarter and a nickel on the wingtip opposite the battery was
required when I used 1200mAH Lipoly cells. I cut a slip in the wingtip and pressed the coins
in the slit then taped the slit shut.
Addendum – Adding landing gear
While the Magpie does not need gear, the kit comes with hardware to add it if you desire.
Start by bending the 3/32” x 16” music wire as shown. The point in the image is the center
of the wire.
Glue the two sides to the landing gear base with CA or epoxy. Attach the wire to the base
with the wire ties.
Measure ¾” from the ends and make the final bend for the wheels. The wheels can be
retained by the internal star washers. The gear base is taped to the bottom of the fuselage
with the point of the wire facing back. The wheels should be even with the front of the
wing.