Niles Speaker User manual

INSTALLATION GUIDE
HDFX
FOR USE IN MULTI-CHANNEL MUSIC OR HOME THEATER SYSTEMS
HIGH DEFINITION, SIDE/REAR CHANNEL EFFECTS, IN-WALL LOUDSPEAKERS
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Thank you for choosing HDFX High-Definition, Side-/Rear-Channel Effects, In-Wall Loudspeakers
from Niles. With proper installation and operation, you should enjoy years of trouble-free use.
Niles manufactures the industry’s most complete line of custom installation components and
accessories for audio/video systems. To see the complete Niles product assortment, visit us on the
Internet at: www.nilesaudio.com
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Introduction 1
Features and Benefits 1
Installation Considerations 3
Loudspeaker Placement 6
Installation Fundamentals 9
New Construction: Installing A Bracket 14
Existing Construction: Installing A Bracket 15
Finishing the Installation 17
Operation 22
Removing the Grille and Loudspeaker 22
Specifications 23
Limited Warranty 24
Warranty Registration Card 25
CONGRATULATIONS!
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NILES AUDIO CORPORATION – 1-800-BUY-HIFI
NILES AUDIO CORPORATION – 1-800-BUY-HIFI
INTRODUCTION
Niles HDFX High-Definition, Side-/Rear-Channel Effects, In-Wall Loudspeakers are expressly
designed for superior sonic quality in side- or rear-channel applications. They employ advanced
technology components that extract the subtle nuances in recorded music or the thunderous
action sound in a movie. HDFX loudspeakers are the perfect choice wherever quality of sound is
the most important consideration.
FEATURES AND BENEFITS
5-1/4-INCH INJECTION-MOLDED TCC WOOFER WITH
BUTYL-RUBBER SURROUND, LONG-THROW VOICE
COIL/MAGNET STRUCTURE, AND VENTED POLE PIECE
The HDFX features newly-developed woofer-cone material that combines injection-molded
polypropylene with talc, carbon, and ceramic (TCC) stiffening agents. As a result, the cone offers
extreme stiffness and light weight for accurate, dynamic response. A long-throw voice coil/magnet
structure ensures increased cone excursion to enhance low frequency response and dynamic
impact. Additionally, the woofer employs a vented pole piece for increased bass linearity and a
butyl-rubber surround for improved midrange damping and clarity as well as moisture resistance.
DUAL 2-1/4-INCH INJECTION-MOLDED TCC
FULL-RANGE DRIVERS FOR SIDE-CHANNEL EFFECTS
Dual 2-1/4-inch injection-molded TCC™ (talc, carbon, and ceramic-filled) polypropylene full-range
drivers fire to either side, providing a uniform, sound field that is ideal for special effects.
COAXIAL 1-INCH TETERON TRI-LAMINATE TWEETER
WITH FLUID-COOLING AND ULTRA-WIDE DISPERSION
FOR CLEAR AND DETAILED HIGH FREQUENCIES
The HDFX’s 1-inch Coaxial Teteron Tweeter employs a tri-laminate design consisting of an inner
textile layer, which forms the dome, a high damping layer to kill unwanted resonances, and an
outside layer of urethane to add stiffness and prevent breakup modes. The result is a transparently
clear, sweet, natural-sounding tweeter, which still maintains extended frequency response.
INSTALLER-SELECTABLE ACOUSTIC FINE TUNING
Using the baffle-mounted TREBLE/CUT and BASS/CUT controls, the installer can de-emphasize the
bass and/or treble response by 3 dB after installing the HDFX to precisely tone match the sound in
any room.
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BIPOLE/DIPOLE AND FX/CUT SWITCHES
The HDFX also includes a baffle-mounted BIPOLE/DIPOLE mode switch so the installer can set the sur-
round effects for either side or rear placement. A companion FX/CUT switch allows adjustment of the
direct/diffuse sound field balance to provide realistic effects, regardless of room size.
EASY RETROFIT INSTALLATION IN YOUR EXISTING HOME
Designed for ease of installation, the Niles mounting system makes retrofit installations simple and
fast. A supplied template assures fast and accurate hole cutting. The bracket slips behind the drywall,
and the screws secure the bracket to the frame, sandwiching the drywall between them. The loud-
speaker baffle attaches to the frame, and the grille mounts over the loudspeaker.
THREE-STAGE INSTALLATION SYSTEM FOR REMODELS OR
NEW CONSTRUCTION
Only the parts needed are installed during a particular stage of construction. After framing and wiring
are finished, the bracket is installed. After the drywall is up, but before the painter begins to paint, the
frame is installed, and the rustproof aluminum grille is left for the painter to match to the surround-
ings. The loudspeaker is installed only when construction is completely finished. Masking or prepping
the loudspeaker for painting and worries about loudspeaker theft during final construction are never
an issue!
MICROPERF™ ALUMINUM GRILLES
Niles’ exclusive MicroPerf™ aluminum-grille construction provides an exceptionally tight hole
pattern for acoustic transparency at all audio frequencies and enables the loudspeaker elements
to remain invisible. MicroPerf™ aluminum grilles can also be painted to blend seamlessly with the
surrounding decor.
NILES’ HD HIGH-DEFINITION VOICE MATCHING
Ensures compatibility with other Niles HD High-Definition in-wall, on-wall, and ceiling-mount models
to accommodate a wide range of system designs.
DOLBY® DIGITAL READY
The HDFX is specifically designed for Home Theater Sound. This model exceeds the specifications set
forth by Dolby Laboratories for the accurate reproduction of Dolby Digital-Encoded Sources.
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NILES AUDIO CORPORATION – 1-800-BUY-HIFI 3
Bracket
New Construction Wings
Frame
Loudspeaker Baffle
Acoustic Fine
Tuning Controls
Grille
Figure 1. Mounting an HDFX vertically into a wall.
INSTALLATION CONSIDERATIONS
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TOOLS AND PRECAUTIONS
We recommend using the following tools to install an HDFX loudspeaker:
• Electric drill with 1/4- and 1/2-inch drill bits, and a 1-inch flat drill bit
(for drilling through studs)
• Keyhole or drywall saw
• Stiff wire, fish tape, or glow rods (for routing cables)
• Phillips screwdriver set
• Cable ties
• Pencil
• Level
• Rubber gloves and protective eyewear
Before starting the installation, please observe the following precautions:
• Turn off all system power before making any connections.
• Always wear protective eyewear when using tools.
• Make sure hands are clean before installation.
• Wear gloves when working with fiberglass insulation.
RECOMMENDED AMPLIFIER POWER
For satisfactory performance, we recommend using a surround amplifier with a power rating of
10 to 150 watts. Curiously, most loudspeakers are not damaged by large amplifiers, but rather
by small amplifiers. If your system is playing loud music, a small amplifier will run out of power
very quickly and can create damaging “clipping” distortions. A more powerful amplifier will play at
the same volume without distorting. See OPERATION on page 22 for more information about
amplifier clipping distortion.
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NILES AUDIO CORPORATION – 1-800-BUY-HIFI
LOUDSPEAKER WIRE
Use 2-conductor loudspeaker wire when connecting loudspeakers to your receiver or amplifier. For
most applications, we recommend using 16- or 18-gauge wire. For wiring runs longer than 80 feet,
we recommend 14-gauge wire. The spring-loaded terminals of the HDFX will accommodate up to
12-gauge wire directly. Larger sizes can be accommodated via pin connectors.
When running wire inside walls or ceilings, use special jacketed cable (CL-2 or CL-3) to protect the
wire and for fire prevention. In some areas, conduit is also required. For a trouble-free installation,
low-voltage wire such as loudspeaker wire must be run in accordance with the National Electrical
Code and any applicable provisions of the local building code. If you are unsure of the correct instal-
lation techniques, wire jacket, or type of conduit to use, consult a professional audio/video installer,
building contractor, or the local building and inspection department.
INSULATING THE WALL CAVITY
For best performance from your loudspeakers, fill the wall cavity behind the loudspeaker with
fiberglass insulation (e.g., R-19 unfaced insulation). Try to keep the same amount of insulation for
each loudspeaker, particularly in the same room, for consistent bass response.
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TECH TIP
Wire size is expressed by its AWG (American
Wire Gauge) number – the lower the number,
the larger the wire. For example, 12 AWG is
physically larger than 14 AWG.
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LOUDSPEAKER PLACEMENT
NOTE: THE NILES HDFX LOUDSPEAKER IS DESIGNED FOR USE IN SIDE- OR REAR-CHANNEL
APPLICATIONS ONLY. FOR FRONT-OR CENTER-CHANNEL APPLICATIONS, WE RECOMMEND USING A
NILES HDLCR OR HDLCRBX LOUDSPEAKER
PLACEMENT FOR HOME THEATER REAR APPLICATIONS
In home theater, the goal is to reproduce the experience of a great movie theater in your home. The
biggest difference between the two venues is the use of a rear- or surround-loudspeaker array in a
commercial theater. Here, it is not uncommon to see 20 or 30 loudspeakers placed around theater
walls. This huge array of loudspeakers assures the audience will feel completely surrounded by the
ambient soundtrack of the movie.
Filmmakers carefully use the “surround” soundtrack to envelope viewers in the sound environment
on screen. They will place background music, rain sounds, traffic noise, etc. on the “surround”
soundtrack to create desired effects. However, in a home with a single pair of front loudspeakers,
this surround effect will be lost, and jungle sounds may actually sound like they are emanating “from
the middle of your head,” just like headphones!
Each HDFX loudspeaker is equipped with a BIPOLE/DIPOLE switch that optimizes the surround
effects for either side or rear placement (see SETTING THE BIPOLE/DIPOLE MODE
on page 20). Here are some recommended loudspeaker placement tips:
• Place the surround loudspeakers on a rear wall directly behind the listening position. If
possible, try placing the loudspeakers nearer to the corners, as shown in Figure 2 and
3. Set each BIPOLE/DIPOLE switch to DIPOLE for reflected sound. Moreover, the adjoin-
ing walls will act as powerful reflectors to create even more reflections.
• If you place the surround loudspeakers farther away from the listener, the surround
sound will dissipate, requiring even more power from the surround-sound channels. If
your sound system uses a small 5- or 10-watt surround amplifier for the rear loud-
speakers, be sure to place the loudspeakers within 5 to 8 feet of the listening location.
• If you are using a larger 25- to 50-watt surround amplifier, you can mount the loud-
speakers 10 to 15 feet away from the listening location and still achieve reasonably
high volume levels. In large or unusually-shaped rooms, this might be the only way to
achieve a good effect.
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NILES AUDIO CORPORATION – 1-800-BUY-HIFI
• If your home theater system is capable of reproducing Dolby EX surround sound,
consider using a second pair of HDFX loudspeakers (on the side walls) for an additional
rear surround effect, as shown in Figure 4 (on the next page). Ideally, the side loud-
speakers should be placed in-line with the listening position with the BIPOLE/DIPOLE
controls set to DIPOLE. For a more focused surround effect, set the BIPOLE/DIPOLE
controls to BIPOLE.
• If you like listening to music in surround modes (which emulate concert hall acoustics),
consider using more than two surround loudspeakers to provide an extraordinary
effect. With Niles HDFX loudspeakers, it is easy to add another pair without affecting
the decor of the room.
NOTE: FOR THIS APPLICATION, YOU WILL NEED TO USE A MORE POWERFUL AMPLIFIER THAN
THE ONE BUILT INTO A TYPICAL SURROUND-SOUND RECEIVER OR AMPLIFIER. NILES MAKES A
NUMBER OF SYSTEMS INTEGRATION AMPLIFIERS WITH PROPRIETARY FEATURES THAT MAKE
THEM UNIQUELY SUITED TO ENHANCE YOUR EXISTING SURROUND-SOUND SYSTEM. CONSULT
YOUR LOCAL NILES DEALER FOR MORE INFORMATION.
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(CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE)
Figure 2. HDFX loudspeakers are placed
near back corner walls of a home theater room.
Figure 3. HDFX loudspeakers are placed
near back corner walls of a home theater room
with an L-shaped sofa.
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THE BOUNDARY EFFECT
Placing a loudspeaker in a corner can powerfully affect the way a listener perceives bass response.
Known as the boundary effect, placing loudspeakers close to a wall/ceiling boundary or near a
corner-wall boundary will emphasize certain bass frequencies, while canceling others. This effect
can make the loudspeaker sound excessively boomy and inaccurate to some listeners, while to
others it just seems like more bass sound.
As a good rule-of-thumb, if you like listening to your current pair of loudspeakers with the bass
turned up, you’ll enjoy corner placement. However, if you listen with the tone controls at neutral, try
keeping the loudspeakers at least 2 or 3 feet from the boundaries of the room.
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PLACEMENT FOR HOME THEATER REAR APPLICATIONS
(CONTINUED)
Figure 4. Two pairs of HDFX loudspeakers
reproduce Dolby EX surround sound in a home
theater room.
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NILES AUDIO CORPORATION – 1-800-BUY-HIFI
INSTALLATION FUNDAMENTALS
RUNNING THE LOUDSPEAKER WIRE IN NEW
CONSTRUCTION
IMPORTANT: IF YOU HAVE DOUBTS ABOUT WHETHER YOU ARE CAPABLE OF INSTALLING A NILES
WALL-MOUNT LOUDSPEAKER, PLEASE CONSULT A NILES DEALER OR PROFESSIONAL INSTALLER.
THEY HAVE SPECIAL TOOLS, TECHNIQUES, AND EXPERIENCE TO MAKE THE IMPOSSIBLE JOB
POSSIBLE. THE INSTALLER CAN PROVIDE YOU WITH AN ESTIMATE BEFORE ANY WORK IS DONE.
OBSERVE SAFETY FIRST!
• Always wear gloves, safety goggles, and head protection gear when drilling or
cutting holes.
• Avoid drilling near nails – they ruin bits and can cause injury.
• Be careful using “hole-hogs” and other powerful electric drills. The torque of this
drill when suddenly stopped by a nail can break the wrist of a strong man.
SCHEDULING AND PREPARATION
Plan to schedule the loudspeaker wiring after the electrical wiring is finished. That way you can
avoid wire routes, which could potentially induce hum over the loudspeaker wire. The basic wiring
rules are:
• Never run loudspeaker wire through the same hole as an electrical cable.
• Never run loudspeaker wire into the same J-box as electrical cable.
• Avoid running the loudspeaker wire beside the electrical cable. Keep your loudspeaker
cable at a distance of at least 3 feet from any electrical power cable.
• If side-by-side wiring is unavoidable in particular spots in the house, move the
loudspeaker wire route away as soon as possible.
• If construction forces a side-by-side run for more than 10 feet, install metal conduit
or shielded loudspeaker wire. Low-voltage wires such as doorbells, intercoms,
telephone, security, or television cannot cause interference or hum on your
loudspeaker wires, so you can safely run all of them at the same time, through the
same holes, side-by-side.
• Before drilling any holes, mount the loudspeaker brackets in the desired loudspeaker
locations and mount p-rings or open-backed J-boxes where the in-wall volume con-
trols and stereo equipment will be located.
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RUNNING THE LOUDSPEAKER WIRE IN NEW
CONSTRUCTION (CONTINUED)
ABOUT DRILLING
Use a bit that is large enough for the wires you plan to run. This is an important consideration,
since you may be drilling a lot of holes. Here are some additional tips:
• We recommend using an auger bit for rough-in wiring. It will actually pull itself through
the wood, so that the drill motor, not you, does most of the work.
• Always drill the holes in the center of the stud. If you have to notch the stud or drill the
hole closer than 1 inch from the edge of the stud, protect the wire with a nail plate, as
shown in Figure 5.
• When drilling holes in ceiling joists, drill in the center of the joists and try to locate
the hole near the end of the joist.
IMPORTANT: DO NOT DRILL THROUGH A GLU-LAM OR
LOAD-BEARING BEAM WITHOUT THE DIRECTION OF
YOUR CONTRACTOR.
• Try to line the holes up perfectly, because it makes
pulling the wire much easier. A good technique is
to snap a chalk line across the face of the studs or
against the bottom of the ceiling joists. Then work
backward so that you can always see the holes
you have already drilled. Paying careful attention
to this will save you time later on.
PULLING THE CABLE
Pull the cable in sections (from the stereo to the volume control, from the volume control to the
loudspeaker). Start with the longest sections and use leftover wire to complete the short sections.
Also consider the following wiring tips:
• If you plan to pull many rooms at the same time through a central route, walk off
the distance to each destination, add a generous “fudge factor” for turns and other
obstacles, and then cut off each section, so you can pull a bundle of wires at once.
• When running the wire further than 4-1/2 feet from a hole in a stud or joist (e.g., open
attic space, going up walls, etc.), be sure to fasten the wire to the joists or studs using
cable clamps or appropriately-sized wire staples. The wire should not have large sags
in it, nor should it be too tight.
• Try to protect the wire from being stepped on in attics or other unfinished crawl
spaces. Use guard strips, raceways, or conduits to protect the cable. Consult the local
building code for special requirements in your area.
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Figure 5. Installing a nail
plate to protect wiring in a
notched stud.
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CONCEALING LOUDSPEAKER WIRE
ABOUT INTERIOR WALLS
Interior walls in almost all North American residences are hollow, so they are easy installation sites
for flush mounting loudspeakers and routing new loudspeaker cable in the house. Looking at a
painted wallboard, plaster, or paneling, you only see the skin of the wall. Behind it is the home’s
skeleton; 2-by-4 inch wood or metal “studs” running vertically from the floor to the ceiling in walls
and 2-by-6 inch or larger “joists” running horizontally in the ceilings and floors. The space between
the studs and joists is used for the home’s wiring and plumbing.
ABOUT EXTERIOR WALLS
Concealing wires in exterior walls is more complex, since the walls are stuffed with insulation to
protect the house from the heat and cold outside. Moreover, our national building code requires
that a horizontal stud placed between the vertical studs break the hollow wall space in exterior
walls. This “fire blocking” makes it very difficult to retrofit long lengths of wire. In some areas
of the country, the exterior walls are constructed of solid masonry and have no hollow space for
loudspeakers or wires.
PLANNING THE LOUDSPEAKER WIRE ROUTE
Start by examining all the possible routes you
might take to run the loudspeaker wire from the
loudspeaker to the home theater system. Use a
stud sensor or other device to locate the internal
structure of the wall. You will want to avoid all studs
or joists. Figure 6 shows a typical wire run from
the loudspeaker location in the wall, across the attic,
then down through a top plate (i.e., the horizontal
2-by-4 or 2-by-6 inch wood laid across the vertical
studs) to a wall plate or a J-Box in the wall behind
the home theater system itself.
Find all the locations of your existing electrical,
phone, and TV wiring, and then plan the loudspeaker
wire route to avoid them. Crossing wire paths is
acceptable, but 60 Hz hum may be induced in the
reproduced audio if loudspeaker wire is run paral-
lel to electrical wire for more than a few feet. If
possible, try to keep loudspeaker wire away from
parallel power cables by at least 3 feet.
loudspeaker
Location Volume
Control
Location
Stereo
Location
Figure 6. Running loudspeaker wire
from a wall loudspeaker to a home theater
system location.
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CONCEALING LOUDSPEAKER WIRE (CONTINUED)
PLANNING THE LOUDSPEAKER WIRE ROUTE (CONTINUED)
To find exactly where an electrical cable is routed, try inspecting the inside of the wall by turn-
ing off the breaker for a particular power outlet or switch, removing the cover plate and switch
or receptacle, and then shining a penlight into the wall. If you have access to an attic or base-
ment space, you can quickly see which part of the wall space is free of obstructions, as shown in
Figure 7.
When you don’t have access above or below the wall, try to estimate the existing wire and pipe
locations from known positions of electrical outlets and plumbed fixtures on both sides of the wall.
Take a look at the outside of your house too – sometimes conduit, vents, or drainpipe will provide
useful visible clues. Choose the route with the fewest potential obstacles.
If the home is built on a slab, or a loudspeaker wire route is planned between two finished floors,
look for baseboards that could be removed for wire placement. Doorjambs can also be removed
and often have enough space for loudspeaker wire all the way around the door, as shown in
Figure 8.
Figure 7. An example of
unobstructed wall space for
loudspeaker wiring.
Figure 8. Running loudspeaker
wire between a wall and a removed
doorjamb. Nail plates are also
installed to protect the wire when
the doorjamb is replaced.
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NILES AUDIO CORPORATION – 1-800-BUY-HIFI
OTHER POSSIBLE LOUDSPEAKER WIRE ROUTES INCLUDE:
• Under-the-carpet runs using flat loudspeaker wires.
• Heating and air conditioning vents used as wire raceways for plenum-rated wire.
NOTE: CHECK YOUR LOCAL BUILDING CODES, SINCE SOME MUNICIPALITIES REQUIRE CONDUIT.
CUTTING HOLES
In traditional wood stud/drywall construction, first cut the hole for the loudspeaker. Then, in the
opening, use a drill with a long bit to auger a wire route up or down the wall. Next, cut a hole in the
drywall for stud access, drill holes through the studs, and run your wire, as shown in Figure 9.
After the wire has been run, patch the
hole with the cut drywall using standard
drywall joint tape and joint compound.
Let the patch dry, sand the surface, and
touch-up the wall with paint.
NOTE: BE PATIENT WITH UNKNOWN
STRUCTURES OR DIFFICULT-TO-PATCH
WALL MATERIALS LIKE PLASTER, LATH
AND PLASTER, FAUX FINISHES, WALLPAPER
ETC. ALWAYS PERFORM A CAREFUL STUDY
OF THE POTENTIAL PROBLEMS BEFORE
STARTING THE JOB.
NEW CONSTRUCTION: IN-
STALLING A BRACKET
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(CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE)
Figure 9. Example of a
wall loudspeaker cutout with
studs drilled for wire run.
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NEW CONSTRUCTION: INSTALLING A BRACKET
The hole-saving bracket enables a faster and cleaner final installation of the loudspeaker. It forces
the drywall installer to cut out the loudspeaker hole for you and provides wire ties for the loud-
speaker wire, reducing the risks of accidental loss or movement of the wire. In addition, it enables
you to align your loudspeakers with other ceiling fixtures with greater accuracy, since you can see
exactly where the loudspeaker will be.
INSTALLING THE BRACKET
1. Attach the QuickSnap™ new-construction wings to the bracket by snapping them into
the bracket sides, as shown in Figure 10. If the length will interfere with corner or
eaves, shorten the wings by breaking them along the scored lines.
2. Screw one side of the assembled bracket with wings to the stud or joist, using one
of the supplied screws. Level the bracket, and then screw the other side of the
bracket/wing assembly to the stud or joist. Two screws on each side make for a
very secure installation.
3. Attach the wire to the bracket at the indicated wire tie points, as shown in Figure 11.
14
4 Wire Ties
Figure 10. The hole-saving brackets include
QuickSnap new-construction wings.
Figure 11. The brackets have
four wire-tie points.
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NILES AUDIO CORPORATION – 1-800-BUY-HIFI
Figure 12. The loudspeaker
wire is looped and hung on
two nails attached to the joists,
securing it for future use. Be
sure to note the location on
house plans.
CONCEALING LOUDSPEAKER WIRE FOR A FUTURE
INSTALLATION
1. Attach the loudspeaker wire in a loop between the wall studs or ceiling joists and
carefully mark the exact location of the wire on a set of plans.
2. Ask the general contractor to inform the drywall installers that the loudspeaker wire
loops are concealed for future installations, as shown in Figure 12.
EXISTING CONSTRUCTION: INSTALLING A BRACKET
IMPORTANT: BEFORE YOU CUT INTO ANY WALL, REVIEW THE SECTIONS ON RUNNING WIRE AND
LOUDSPEAKER PLACEMENT STARTING ON PAGE 6. BE SURE NOT TO DRILL OR CUT THROUGH
EXISTING WIRES, PIPES, OR STRUCTURE. IF YOU FEEL ANY EXTRA RESISTANCE AS YOU ARE
DRILLING OR SAWING, STOP!
1. Locate studs or joists by using a stud sensor or by hand knocking. Do not place the
edge of the cutout directly next to a stud or joist, since the frame and bracket will
extend beyond the cutout.
2. At the planned cutout site, drill a 1/8-inch pilot hole
just barely through the wall, about an inch below
the center of your proposed loudspeaker location.
NOTE: IN MOST HOMES, THE WALL THICKNESS IS 1/2 TO
5/8 INCH.
3. Cut a foot-long piece of coat hanger and bend it to
create a right angle. Poke the “L-shaped” wire into
the pilot hole and turn it in a complete circle, as
shown in Figure 13.
15
Figure 13. Using a coat
hanger to check for obstructions
behind the wall loudspeaker site.
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EXISTING CONSTRUCTION: INSTALLING A BRACKET (CONTINUED)
4. Continue turning the coat hanger as you move it into the cavity to a depth of approxi-
mately 4 inches. If you feel an obstruction, fill the hole(s) with spackling compound
and repeat steps 1 through 4 at a new location.
5. If the coat hanger moves freely in a complete circle, hold the supplied template up
to the wall or ceiling and level it in the horizontal or vertical position. Use a pencil to
outline the cutout on the surface and then drill the four corner holes with a 1/4-inch bit
(see Figure 14 on page 17).
6. If you are cutting drywall, use a sheetrock or keyhole saw. Cut the outline with the saw
at a 45-degree angle. That way, the drywall section can be replaced cleanly if there is
an unseen obstruction behind the wall.
7. If you are cutting into a plaster ceiling, use masking tape to outline the penciled open-
ing and use a razor to score the plaster down to the lath beneath. Then use a chisel to
remove all of the plaster within the taped outline. To actually cut the lath, consider the
following two professional methods:
• Use a saber saw with a metal cutting blade for the quickest cut. However, saw-
ing lath with a saber saw can easily vibrate plaster off the ceiling in a completely
distant location, thereby creating more patchwork.
• If you have the patience, use a pair of tin snips to slowly nip away at the lath
instead. There is little risk with this method – it is just more time consuming.
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NILES AUDIO CORPORATION – 1-800-BUY-HIFI
FINISHING THE INSTALLATION
PAINTING THE GRILLE AND FRAME
After drywall is up, each HDFX frame and grille may be painted without the need for primer. For
best results, use a spray gun or airless sprayer, thin the paint to prevent clogging of the grille holes,
and apply several light coats instead of one heavy one.
1. Paint each grille and let it dry before installation.
2. Paint each frame and let it dry before installation.
INSTALLING THE FRAME
1. Fill each wall cavity with insulation. Remember to use equal amounts of insulation for
each loudspeaker.
2. For existing construction, slip the mounting bracket through the hole and pull it toward
you so that its front edge slides into the hole and stops in place.
NOTE: FOR NEW CONSTRUCTION, THE MOUNTING BRACKET SHOULD ALREADY BE IN PLACE
(AS DESCRIBED IN THE SECTION NEW CONSTRUCTION: INSTALLING A BRACKET ON PAGE 14.
3. Attach each frame to its bracket using the supplied screws, as shown in Figure 14.
The screws should pull the frame and bracket together (sandwiching the drywall)
so that the frame is absolutely flush with the wall surface. There should be no gaps
between the wall and the frame.
IMPORTANT: DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE SCREWS! OVER TIGHTENING THEM MAY MAKE
THE GRILLE DIFFICULT TO INSTALL.
17
Figure 14. Installing the
frame into a mounting bracket.
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CONNECTING AND INSTALLING THE LOUDSPEAKER
1. At each loudspeaker, separate the loudspeaker wire so that at least 2 inches of each
conductor are free. Strip away 1/4 inch of insulation from each loudspeaker wire.
2. On each set of loudspeaker connectors, press down the spring-loaded lever, insert the
appropriate conductor, and then release the lever, as shown in Figure 15. Gently tug
on the loudspeaker wire to make sure it is held in place. If not, repeat this procedure
until it is.
NOTE: OBSERVE CORRECT POLARITY: POSITIVE (+) GOES INTO THE RED TERMINAL AND
NEGATIVE (–) GOES INTO THE BLACK TERMINAL.
3. Connect the other end of each loudspeaker wire to
the receiver (or amplifier) in the same way. If you
are unsure of wire polarity, see the next section,
Checking Loudspeaker Phase on page 19.
NOTE: OBSERVE CORRECT POLARITY: POSITIVE (+)
GOES INTO THE RED TERMINAL AND NEGATIVE (–)
GOES INTO THE BLACK TERMINAL.
4. Install the loudspeaker baffle into its frame by
inserting the tabs at the base into the correspond-
ing holes in the frame and pushing the loud-
speaker forward until the snaps engage, as shown
in Figure 16.
18
Figure 16. Installing the
loudspeaker baffle into its frame.
Figure 15. Connecting a loudspeaker wire to
the HDFX terminals.
CTR L/R
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