North American Yachts Yacht User manual

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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Warranty Statement and Validation Card . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Boat Features and Nautical Terms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Rigging Checklist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
U. S. Coast Guard Requirements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Section I. OPERATION:
A. Before Launch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
B. Underway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
C. Rigging Procedure. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
D. Tuning the Mast. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
E. Setting and Trimming the Mainsail. . . . . . 11
F. Trimming the Mainsail . . . . . . . . . . . 12
G. Setting and Trimming Genoas and Jibs . . . . 13
H. Setting and Trimming the Spinnaker . . . . . 15
I. Reefing the Genoa . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
J. Pop Top Operation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Section II: DEVELOPMENT OF BOATING SKILLS:
A. Basic Rules . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
B. Charts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
C. Tying a Bowline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
D. Accessory Equipment Required . . . . . . . . 22
E. Recommended Additional Gear . . . . . . . . 22
F. What Sail to Add First . . . . . . . . . . . 23
G. About Cloth Weight . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Section III.ELECTRICAL SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Section IV. MAINTENANCE AND SERVICE
A. Fiberglass Care . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
B. Maintaining Hull Finish . . . . . . . . . . 27
C. Care of Sails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Section V. TRAILERING
A. Choosing Your Trailer . . . . . . . . . . . 29
B. Proper Mast Trailering . . . . . . . . . . 29
C. Trailer Balance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
D. How to Rig and Maintain Your Trailer . . . . 30
E. Tips on Boat Launching . . . . . . . . . . . 31
F. Storing Your Boat on a Trailer . . . . . . . 31
Section VI. WARRANTY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Cautions Summarized . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Glossary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Rules of the Road . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Back Cover

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WARRANTY
"All North American Yachts, Inc. warranties are LIMITED WARRANTIES within the
meaning of Title I of the Federal Trade Commission Improvement Act."
MANUFACTURER'S WARRANTY AND DISCLAIMER
North American Yachts, Inc. warrants to the original purchaser only each new
boat hull and deck to be free of defects in material and workmanship under
normal use or service for a period of one year from the date of retail purchase
from an authorized North American Yachts, Inc. dealer according to the
following terms:
Any part of the boat manufactured by North American Yachts, Inc. and found in
the reasonable judgment of North American Yachts, Inc. to be defective in
material or workmanship will be repaired or replaced at North American Yachts,
Inc.'s option by an authorized North American Yachts, Inc. dealer, or at the
North American Yachts, Inc. factory without charge for parts and labor,
provided the factory or an authorized North American Yachts, Inc. dealer is
notified within 30 days of defect. Transportation expense of delivering the
boat or part to the dealer or the North American Yachts, Inc. factory and the
expense of returning the boat back to the owner will be paid for by the owner.
Proof of purchase will be required to substantiate any warranty claim. All
warranty work must be authorized by a North American Yachts, inc. Factory
Representative; and, only authorized North American Yachts, Inc. dealers or the
factory can perform warranty work.
ITEMS NOT COVERED BY WARRANTY
This warranty does not apply to: (1) mast, engines, controls, batteries, or
other equipment or accessories which are not manufactured by North American
Yachts, Inc. and which tarry their own individual manufacturer warranties; (2)
machinery, equipment and accessories not factory installed; (3) gelcoat; (4)
any North American Yacht which has been altered, subject to misuse, negligence
or accident; (5) any North American Yacht used for commercial purposes. Upon
request, North American Yachts, Inc~ may provide special written warranty for
specific commercial applications.
In addition, this warranty does not extend to repairs made necessary by normal
wear, or, by the use of parts or accessories which in the reasonable judgment
of North American Yachts, Inc. are either incompatible with the boat or
adversely affect its operation, performance or durability.
Personal flotation devices should be carried for each passenger in accordance
with the U.S. Coast Guard requirements.
NO OTHER WARRANTIES MADE: Liability Disclaimer
Repairs or replacements qualifying under this warranty will be performed in
accordance with the terms stated herein. North American Yachts, Inc.'s
responsibility in respect to claims is limited to making the required repairs
or replacements, and no claim of breach of warranty shall be cause for
cancellation or rescission of the contract of sale of any boat.
North American Yachts, Inc. assumes no responsibility for loss of use of the
boat, loss of time, inconvenience, or other damage, consequential or otherwise,
including, but not limited to, expense for gasoline, expense of returning the
boat to the dealer and expense of returning the boat back to the owner, removal
of the motor from the boat and reinstallation, mechanic's travel time, in-end-
out-of-water charges, telephone or telegram charges, trailering or towing
charges, rental of another boat during the time warranty repairs are being
performed, travel, lodging, loss or damage to personal property, or loss of
revenue.

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North American Yachts, Inc. reserves the right to change or improve the design
of any boat without assuming any obligation to modify any boat previously
manufactured.
ALL IMPLIED WARRANTIES ARE LIMITED IN DURATIDN TO THE DURATION OF THE ONE (1)
YEAR WARRANTY PERIOD. ACCORDINGLY, ANY SUCH IMPLIED WARRANTIES INCLUDING
MERCHANTABILITY, FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, OR OTHERWISE, ARE DISCLAIMED
IN THEIR ENTIRETY AFTER THE EXPIRATION OF THE ONE (1) YEAR WARRANTY PERIOD.
NORTH AMERICAN YACHTS, INC.'S OBLIGATION UNDER THIS WARRANTY IS STRICTLY AND
EXCLUSIVELY LIMITED TO THE REPAIR OR REPLACEMENT OF DEFECTIVE PARTS, AND NORTH
AMERICAN YACHTS, INC. DOES NOT ASSUME OR AUTHORIZE ANYONE TO ASSUME FOR THEM
ANY OTHER OBLIGATION.
Some states do not allow limitations on how long an implied warranty lasts and
some sates do not allow the exclusion or limitation of incidental or
consequential damages, so the above limitations and exclusions may not apply to
you.
The Warranty Validation Card must be signed by the owner and returned to North
American Yachts, Inc. within fifteen (15) days after the original purchase.
Failure to sign and return the card within the prescribed time will render your
warranty null and void. Nothing herein shall be interpreted, however, as
limiting North American Yachts, Inc.'s obligations under the Boat Safety Act of
1971 to correct defects which violate Coast Guard Safety Standards,
Regulations, or which are determined to create a substantial risk of personal
injury to the public.
SPECIAL NOTE: All boat manufacturers are required by Federal Law to notify
first-time owners in the event any defect is discovered "which creates a
substantial risk of personal injury to the public." Failure of the purchaser to
return the boat warranty registration card will waive the right to notification
of defect and repair at manufacturer's expense. In order that we can comply
with the law if it becomes necessary, it is essential that your boat warranty
registration card with the owner's name, address, and boat serial number be
completed and mailed (Federal Boat Safety Act of 1971, Subsection 15b.)
This warranty gives you specific legal rights and you may also have other
rights which vary from state to state.
This warranty applies only to boats sold in the United States and Canada.
In keeping with North American Yachts, Inc.'s policy of continuous improvement
of all products, we reserve the right to change specifications and prices
without notice.
(Detach on Dotted Line and Mail)
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WARRANTY VALIDATION CARD
BOAT INFORMATION
Year Model Hull Identification No. Purchase Date
____ ________ ____________ ____________
Owner's Name: ______________________________
Street: _____________________________________
City: __________________ State ____ Zip _______
I have read and retained a copy otthe manufacturer's warranty
and disclaimer statement.
Signed: ____________________________________Owner
NOTICE: Failure to return this warranty validation card may
waive your right to notification of defect and repair at
manufacturer's expense - the Federal Boat Safety Act of 1971
- Subsection 15 (b).
Dealer's Name __________________________________
City, State ______________________________________
Where will boat be stored?
Trailer Dry Storage Fresh Water Salt Water!
Was North American Yacht received in good conditien?
Yes No
NOTE: If you wish to write manufacturer about your boat,
please address your letter as follows. including model and
serial number:
North American Yachts, Inc., Service Department
P.O. Box 9447, Austin, Texas 78766

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CONGRATULATIONS!
Welcome to the Glastron, Glastron/Carlson and North American fleets of
satisfied owners. Your boat is designed, engineered tested and constructed to
give you the most in performance and comfort with safety.
This owner's - operator's manual will help you get the most pleasure and
utility from your boat. It contains information about your equipment, operating
procedures, performance, construction, safety requirements and suggestions for
service and care.
EVERYONE WHO USES THIS BOAT SHOULD READ THIS MANUAL AND BE FAMILIAR WITH SAFETY
AND CAUTION WARNINGS CONTAINED THEREIN.
Founded in 1956, Glastron Boat Company has recorded a remarkable continuing
growth. Glastron has become the world's largest manufacturer of fiberglass
pleasure boats under one brand name, with world-wide sales through over 1000
dealers in all states and 55 foreign countries, with factories in Spain, New
Zealand, Venezuela, and Trinidad. Glastron Boat Plant area in Austin, Texas is
now over 660,000 square feet with a total Austin employment of about 1200. In
1969 Glastron acquired Carlson boats in Anaheim, California to produce the
Carlson high-performance fiberglass pleasure boats and certain Glastron models.
And now a new home for North American Yachts, Inc.

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RIGGING CHECKLIST
FOR THE NORTH AMERICAN 23
-Mast
-Boom
-Mainsail and Battens
-Working Jib
-Running Rigging:
Main Halyard
Jib Halyard
Main Sheet
Jib Sheet (2 pieces)
-Standing Rigging:
Upper Shrouds (2 pieces)
lower Shrouds (2 pieces)
Backstay, Upper Section
Backstay, lower Section
Headstay
-Main Sheet System
Single Block with Becket
Fiddle Block with Cam Cleat *
Single Blocks (Mounted - 2 pieces) *
Jib Sheet Blocks (Mounted - 2 pieces) *
Winch Handle
Shackle for Jib Tack
Wire for Spreader Tips
* OPTIONAL

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U.S. COAST GUARD REQUIREMENTS
NORTH AMERICAN YACHTS CO. HAS PROVIDED:
Navigation Lights: Complies with Coast Guard regulations for either inland or
international waters depending on model. (If factory installed.)
YOU MUST PROVIDE:
Personal Flotation Devices: There must be at least one Coast Guard approved
personal flotation device aboard for each person in the boat.
Registration: You must properly register your boat and display the proper
registration numbers as required by Federal law.
State Laws: The state in which you operate your boat may have other
requirements - check the laws.
YOU SHOULD PROVIDE:
Safety Kit: Carry a safety kit that includes distress signals, bilge pump,
flashlight, first aid kit, hand tools, cotter pin, oar, anchor, and a tow line.
SPECIAL NOTE: All boat manufacturers are required by Federal law to notify
first time owners in the event any defect is discovered "which creates a
substantial risk of personal injury to the public:" FAILURE OF THE PURCHASER TO
RETURN THE WARRANTY VALIDATION CARD WILL WAIVE THE RIGHT TO NOTIFICATION OF
DEFECT AND REPAIR AT MANUFACTURER'S EXPENSE. In order that we can comply with
the law if it becomes necessary, it is essential that your warranty validation
card with the owner's name, address and hull serial number be completed and
mailed (Federal Boat Safety Act of 1971, Subsection 15b.)
IMPORTANT: To validate the warranty on your boat, complete and mail the card
from this manual within 15 days of purchase. It is pre-addressed and postage
paid for your convenience.

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Section I: Operation
CAPACITY
North American Yachts, Inc. does not release any model until the boat has met
the most stringent of engineering tests to comply with safety specifications
for boat capacity, compartment ventilation, navigation lights, flotation,
steering and fuel systems, as applicable.
NOTE: The auxiliary motor bracket on this boat is designed for up to 10 H.P. Do
not use a larger motor.
A. BEFORE LAUNCH
1. CAUTION: Make sure the hose is on the Seacock or that the valve is closed.
2. Inspect the hull for cleanliness or damage. A dirty hull lessens
performance, and increases drag. There is a possibility that the gelcoat
finish can "blister" end peel is boats are kept in the water continuously. (See
"Care and Maintenance," Section III.)
3. Secure all accessories and loose equipment.
4. Check that boat is properly equipped with U.S. Coast Guard required and
approved safety equipment.
You must have a U.S.C.G. approved personal flotation device for each person on
board. Small children and non-swimmers should be required to wear a life vest
at all times. Check the condition of the flotation devices.
5. Have an approved fire extinguisher aboard.
6. Lighting: Check for proper operation.
7. If you have an auxiliary motor, make sure that it is securely fastened to
the bracket.
B. UNDERWAY (See Development of Boating Skills, page 18.)
1. Test steering for proper operation as you move slowly from dock.
2. Keep speed under control at all times. Respect the rights of others. Be
courteous.
3. Trim boat by weight distribution.
4. Drive "defensively" as you should your car.
5. Remember - the privilege to use public water carries with it an obligation
to helm your boat in a safe and courteous manner.

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C. RIGGING PROCEDURE
The first step in rigging your boat is to make a quick run through of the
equipment to see that it is all there.
The checklist of the rigging for the boat is on page seven of this manual. All
the material required to sail the boat is included except tape or some other
material to cover the spreader tips to prevent chafe.
Be sure to read Section IV, Part C. for proper care of your sails.
Set Up
Uncoil rigging, leaving tags on each piece to avoid confusion. Begin attaching
rigging to mast. The lower shrouds connect to the tangs just below the spreader
sockets. The spreaders should be inserted in their sockets and bolted in. The
upper shrouds are installed to their tangs on either side of the mast just
below the top of the mast. The headstay and backstay are installed.
The drawing on page 6 will serve to help the novice position each piece of
rigging.
The halyards should be installed at this point. The main halyard is installed
through the mast head, making sure that the rope is fed through from the aft
side of the mast forward. Run the halyard through to the wire to the rope
splice and tie to the cleat on the starboard side of the mast. The jib halyard
is run through the block just underneath the headstay tang. It also is run
through to the splice, and tied off to the cleat on the port side of the mast.
Position the mast on the cabin top. Attach the lower portions of the standing
rigging except the headstay to their respective chainplates. Loosen all
turnbuckles to their fully extended position. Remove the pins from the plate at
the butt of the mast.
Raising the Mast
When all the rigging has been set out and attached as prescribed above, check
to see that none of the rigging is tangled or twisted. Move the mast aft so
that the aft hole in the mast step is lined up with the aft hole in the plate
on the butt of the mast. Insert the proper pin (Note the two pins are of
different diameters) in the hole and lock with its cotter pin.
Raise the mast to its vertical position. Attach the headstay to the forward
hole in the headstay tang. Now insert the forward pin in the mast step and lock
with its cotter pin.
When this is complete, begin tuning the rigging for best support and sailing
performance. An explanation of tuning the mast follows later.
Completion of Rigging
The boom must be installed. The forward end of the boom or "gooseneck" bolts to
the mast and the aft end of the boom is suspended from the snap

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on the backstay pennent. The double block is next attached to the bale on the
bottom of the boom which is over the other main sheet blocks. Its sheaves run
across the boat. If you have end boom sheeting you will attach your fiddle
block with cam cleat to the bridle provided on the transom. Then attach single
block to end of boom where boom bail and/or topping lift bar (depending on boat
model) are provided.
The main sheet is dead ended on top of the block on the starboard side of the
companionway. It is led through the double block's aft sheave and down through
the block on the port side of the cabin. Once again up through the double block
and down through the block on the starboard side. Thence through the fairlead
and cam cleat aft 'of the starboard block.
D. TUNING THE MAST
Final and accurate tuning of your mast should be done during or after sailing.
However, it will be necessary and possibly sufficient to rough tune your mast
on your trailer or in the water before sailing.
The mast may be brought to the straight position across the boat by applying
equal tension on each upper shroud and insuring that equal amounts of thread
show on each of the upper shroud turnbuckles. The pressure on these shrouds
should be firm, but not straining. A possible guide would be to tighten the
turnbuckles all you can by hand and then a turn or two more with a pair of
pliers and a screwdriver. The shroud should deflect about three inches when
pushed six feet above the deck. Again the shroud should be firm, but not too
tight.
The lower shrouds should be set up in the same manner, checking along the mast
track (back edge) and seeing that the mast remains straight.
The headstay and backstay are set up in the same manner except slightly more
pressure than used for the upper shrouds. It is important to find a balance
between having the head stay tight enough to keep the jib luff from falling off
too much in a breeze, and excessive rigging load.
If the headstay and/or backstay are tightened for competition, we recommend
loosening the rig after racing.
Final adjustment should be made while sailing in a 8-12 knot breeze. Observe
bend in the mast, then tack and adjust the now loose shrouds to arrive at a
straight mast when you tack back. Do not attempt to tighten the rigging on the
windward or loaded side.
E. SETTING AND TRIMMING THE MAINSAIL
Your mainsail is designed to fit the special characteristics of your particular
boat. Full consideration has been given to your boat's weight as well as mast
and boom deflection, if any.
Your sail is designed so as to place the maximum draft (deepest portion) of the
sail 40 to 50% aft of the luff, (leading edge.) The draft of your new main can
be moved forward by INCREASING luff tension. Conversely, it will move aft if
the luff is relaxed.

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Below we have illustrated and cataloged the suggested luff tension for light,
medium and heavy air.
Your main is equipped with a "Cunningham" grommet. This is placed nine to
eighteen inches above the tack.
Suggested Luff Tension:
Wind Tension:
0 - 10 Medium (Until wrinkles behind luff tape disappear)
Draft Placement: 40 - 45% aft.
10 - 15 Firm (Cunningham 1/3 down)
Maintain Draft: 40 - 45% aft.
15 - 20 Maximum (Cunningham one-half to full down)
Maintain Draft: 40 -45% aft.
Foot or boom outhaul tension are adjusted to correspond to those of the luff,
the harder the wind blows, the more tension should be applied. Try as closely
as possible to match the foot tension to that of the luff. The actual mainsail
hoisting procedure is as follows:
1. Hoist the main to the full up position on the mast.
2. Now set the luff tension, as described above to the wind velocity.
3. Tension the boom foot outhaul to match that of the luff.
IMPORTANT: Never tension the foot of the main sail before tensioning
the luff. After sailing RELEASE the outhaul, give your sail a chance to
relax. Remember, the luff is no longer under tension. Leaving the foot
under tension causes unequal distortion.
F. TRIMMING THE MAINSAIL
Although much of all sail trim is done by "feel" rather than absolute, hard and
fast rules, we have a few suggestions that we hope will get you started in the
direction.
Trimming of the main is done with four basic controls:
1. Main Sheet
2. Main Boom Traveler
3. Boom Yang
4. Cunningham
Your boat mayor may not have as standard a main boom traveler or boom vang. We
suggest that you consider these options. Now on to trimming the main.
The most critical trim of your main occurs when going to windward. The place to
look for proper trim is the leech (batten) area of your main. Overtrimming will
show up in the leech area hooking to windward, i.e., causing excess drag and
heeling moment because the air is trapped at the back of the sail causing the
boat to heel. A loose or pumping leech indicates, conversely, that more trim is
needed. The function described above is primarily that of the MAIN SHEET.

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The MAIN BOOM TRAVELER, available on the fixed keel model, has the primary
function of controlling the point of trim, inboard or outboard, at which the
mainsheet trim block attaches to the boat. The MAIN BOOM TRAVELER should be
used as follows:
Wind:
0 - 5 Set the main boom slightly to windward of the boat's centerline.
5 - 10 Set the main boom at the boat's centerline.
10 - 15 Set the Traveler to the full outboard position. This reduces
heeling and allows the air to escape more freely from the leech
area of the mainsail.
15 - 25 Set the Traveler one-half the distance between the centerline
and the leeward aft corner of the boat.
The Boom Vang is used primarily when the mainsheet is eased and the end of the
boom is no longer in a position where the Main Boom Traveler is effective, (the
end of the boom now being far out over the rail.)
The Boom Vang which is attached to the base of the mast then up to the center
of the boom by means of pulley arrangement provides mechanical advantage, then
basically assumes the function of the Main Boom Traveler.
As the main boom is eased, the boom rises causing the upper part of the main to
twist off to leeward rendering the top 1/3 of the main ineffective. The Boom
Vang then hauls the boom down (not in) causing a uniform leech curve while
making the upper leech once again, effective.
Tell tales located about 25% aft of the chord length along the luff of the main
can also be most helpful. We suggest 3/8 inch streams about 7 inches long of
lightweight nylon taped to each side of the sail. On the average 23-foot boat,
three sets, about six feet above one another, should be ample. When going to
windward with the main trimmed as previously described, if you are sailing too
close to the wind, the windward tell tale will lift and flutter. Layoff a bit
and the weather tell tale will flow aft again. Conversely, sailing too far off
the wind will cause the leeward tell tale to flutter. Bring the boat up a bit
and it will then flow aft.
If you master the above mainsail setting and trimming technique you will be
well on your way toward the most effective use of your new main.
G. SETTING & TRIMMING GENOAS & JIBS
The procedure for setting the Genoa is quite similar to that of the main. Your
Genoa is designed so as to place the maximum draft (deepest portion) of your
Genoa -35 to 50% -aft of the luff, (leading edge.)
Because your Genoa is of the "stretchy" luff (no rigid wire) concept, the draft
is very easily moved forward through the use of luff tension. Conversely, it
moves aft when the tension is eased.
A suggested procedure for having the proper sail set at all times would be to
set your Genoa up on a stay when the wind is 8 - 10 m.p.h.

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Set the halyard tension so as to remove the HORIZONTAL wrinkles immediately
behind the luff tape. Now look at your sail from the Windward bow sighting aft,
the draft (deepest portion) should be 40% of the chord line (horizontal
distance from leading to trailing edge of sail.) This, then, would be your
light to medium luff tension position. Mark your halyard position with tape or
magic marker.
Now increase the luff tension until a Vertical tension wrinkle develops
immediately behind the luff tape. Ease off slightly until the wrinkle
disappears. Look at your Genoa. The draft is now 35% aft. Mark your ha1yard
This, then, is the heavy air setting.
As you become more familiar with this procedure you will soon be able to
"eyeball" the draft and be well on your way to obtaining optimum Genoa
performance.
Trimming the Genoa
There are two basic considerations in Genoa trim. One, the movement of the jib
leads fore and aft; two, the movement of the trim point in or out in
relationship to the boat's centerline. (Many cruising boats do not have in- or
out-board adjustments as is more prevalent on the smaller one-design sailboats.
First and foremost, the system for setting your jib lead position properly fore
and aft is relatively easy.
Bring your boat on the wind. Trim your Genoa sheet in. Now bring your boat up
into the wind very slowly. If the luff breaks first at the upper portion of the
Genoa, the leads are too far aft. If the luff breaks first in the lower portion
of the sail, the lead is too far forward. When your lead is properly located,
the Genoa will break evenly along the entire length of the luff.
If the athwartship (in and outboard) position of the jib leads are adjustable
we suggest light air settings of 8 to 9 degrees off centerline. Medium air
settings of 9 to 11 degrees, heavy air settings of 11 degrees plus.
This in and outboard movement of the jib leads has one objective, and that is
to accelerate the smooth flow of air aft over the leeward side of the main. The
effect thereby created is known as the "slot effect." The lighter the wind, the
more closed the slot should be made, causing a Venturi (squeezing) effect and
accompanying acceleration of air aft. Conversely, as the wind increases, the
slot is opened reducing the velocity and minimizing the tendency of backwinding
(deflecting air) into the main.
Use of the "foot cord" is basically an "eyeball" function; The foot cord on
your Genoa is readily adjustable by means of a mini "V" jamcleat affixed to the
tack of the Genoa. The simple rule to follow in setting foot cord tension is to
increase tension until the lower foot "stands up" in uniformity with the
remainder of the Genoa.
As a general rule you will need more tension going upwind, easing off as you
bear off the wind. It is normal to see a slight cupping or "end plate" effect
in the lower two to four inches of the foot.

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The use of tell tales on the Genoa luff are most helpful. These tell tales
should be located at about one-third of the luff length intervals vertically
and about 25% of the distance aft between the luff and leech.
The tell tales should be placed as a set, one each on the windward and leeward
sides of the sail. If you are sailing too high the weather tell tale will
flutter; too low and the leeward tell tale will flutter. Transparent circular
tell tale windows may be installed for better tell tale visibility.
The working jib trim and sail set suggestions are identical to those of the
Genoa. Foot cords, however, are not necessary in working jibs.
H. SETTING AND TRIMMING THE SPINNAKER
In order to properly analyze maximum spinnaker efficiency, we have broken the
use of the chute into five categories:
Light Air Runs
On light air runs we suggest making the shape of your chute as full as
possible. This is accomplished by lowering your spinnaker pole to the lowest
position possible on the adjustable pole track. Ease the pole lift to allow the
pole to set perpendicular to the mast. Lead your sheets farther forward. This
will tend to put more tension on the leech of your spinnaker, taking the strain
off the chute itself, which in turn makes the chute fuller and allows it more
freedom to float in the lighter air. Light spinnaker sheets will also be of
help. When at all possible strive to keep the tack and clew of the spinnaker
flying at the same height. If the clew drops lower than the tack, lower the
pole to compensate. If possible, when sailing dead downwind, heel your boat
slightly to windward. This allows the chute to float out from behind the main
making it considerably more efficient.
Light Air Reaching
The inboard pole end should now be in the middle position on your spinnaker
pole track. Again, keep the clew and tack at equal height. The spinnaker pole
should be at a precise perpendicular angle to the mast. Now ease the halyard
slightly. This will ease the leech and flatten the spinnaker slightly, giving
better efficiency particularly when the wind is slightly forward of abeam.
A 10 degree angle of leeward heel will further aid in keeping your spinnaker
full.
Heavy Air Running
You will find little if any, problem keeping the spinnaker drawing effectively
downwind in moderate or heavy air. Keep your crew weight aft. This keeps the
rudder functioning effectively. Do not allow your spinnaker to oscillate. This
may be accomplished by moving your spinnaker sheet lead forward and/or easing
the pole forward and simultaneously trimming the sheet.

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In heavy following seas it may be impossible to eliminate oscillation, but the
above procedure will help keep it under control.
Heavy Air Reaching
The secret to a power reach is to keep your boat on her feet. Keep the heeling
angle at a minimum. Keep the crew weight aft for maximum rudder control and,
above art, anticipate the puffs before they are on you. Concentrate on the wind
10 boat lengths abeam and astern of you. When you see a blast of wind off your
stern quarter, do not wait until it hits you, causing you to heel, round up and
lose control. Bear off before it reaches you. If it looks as though it may last
more than a minute, guy the pole aft and ride it downwind. Keep your boat
moving, maintain control and as the blast eases, let the pole forward and bring
your boat back to its original heading. Remember, "Anticipate the puff before
it reaches you."
Spinnaker work requires practice and the coordination of the helmsman and crew.
It also provides some of sailing's most thrilling moments.
General Spinnaker Trimming
Almost constant attention is required if maximum efficiency is to be realized
from your spinnaker. The luff must be under constant scrutiny and the sail
trimmed on the verge of a break or curl.
Remember, whenever raising or lowering the spinnaker pole to adjust for varying
wind conditions, as described above, the pole must be perpendicular (90 degrees
horizontally to the mast.) Do not allow the pole to hike up or sag down.
In order to accomplish this, the pole lift and inboard spinnaker pole track
setting must be raised and lowered simultaneously.
It is also of paramount importance to keep the clew and tack of the spinnaker
flying at equal heights. This assures that your spinnaker is not being
distorted and that the designed shape is being maintained.
I. REEFING THE GENOA
Many people confuse roller furling as a means of reefing True, some reduction
in sail area may be effected through the use of roller furling gear but
generally a Genoa will not trim properly when a substantial amount of sail is
furled.
Genoa reefing is a means of reducing sail area and at the same time providing
proper sheeting angle for an efficient sail shape. Basically the principle for
Genoa reefing is the same as Jiffy Reefing on the mainsail. A set of reef
points including a secondary tack and clew cringle is installed in the Genoa.
As the wind 'increases the halyard is eased and the reef tack is lowered to the
reef position. The sheet is then attached to the reef clew fitting. The excess
sail area at the foot is then furled and tied.
Two important consideration on the furling Genoa are: one, the Genoa must be
somewhat heavier, (one ounce) than the standard Genoa, because it will be used
in heavier wind ranges when reefed; two, a reefing Genoa will reduce your
headsail area by a ,maximum of 20%, i.e., 150% Genoa reduces to 130%. So, when
you plan to install reefing in your Genoa keep in mind you will need heavier
sail cloth and that the maximum reduction of area will be 20%.

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How To Install a Jiffy Genoa Reef
1. Install a pad eye on the deck (port side) as close as possible to your
regular jib tack fitting.
2. Attach a line to the pad eye and pass it through the Genoa tack reef
cringle. (Make sure this line is twice the height of the reef plus 3 feet.)
3. Install a block (starboard side) as close as possible to the regular Jib
tack fitting.
4. Lead the reefing line previously passed through the reef down and aft
through the block.
5. Install a small cleat about one foot aft of the block. This cleat then
becomes the point at which the tack reef line is secured.
The above gear will allow the quick reef to be taken while fully under way. If
an extra jib sheet is available, it is possible to "pre-sheet" the jib, making
the jib Feefing a simple instant procedure.
J. POP TOP OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
Procedure For Lifting Top
1. Unlatch two side latch locks at middle on each side of top section.
2. Slide main hatch half-way forward.
3. Lift top from inside the cabin. Push straight up from middle of pop top. (do
not lift on hatch.) It will swivel forward and cradle the mast as it moves up.
4. Wrap strap around mast and attach strap to hook provided on pop top.
Procedure For Closing Pop Top
Reverse the above procedure, following several precautions:
1. Have a firm grip with an upward force, before attempting to let the top down
from inside the cabin.
2. Be sure the mast door is closing properly to allow correct closing and
sealing.
CAUTION:
1. Do not allow fingers or hands near the contact edges between top and deck
when raising or lowering the top.
2. Always attach safety hook to mast when the top is in open position.
3. Always have a firm grip on top when opening or closing. The pop top has
considerable weight, and therefore care must be taken when raising or lowering
it.
4. Do not lift top by the main sliding hatch. The main hatch was not designed
to lift the top.
5. Always close the top during high winds or rough conditions.
6. Do not sail while pop top is in an up position.

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Section II: Boating Skills
Development of boating skill will depend on practice, study and observation.
The skillful boat operator will learn to sense when in the interest of safety a
change of speed or course is necessary. He will gradually gain an instinctive
touch in protecting his boat from strain, stress and avoiding possible
hazardous situations.
Until you are capable of knowledgeable weather forecasting, get in the habit of
checking your local newspaper, radio and TV broadcasts, consulting operators of
local marinas or placing a call to the nearest Coast Guard Station or airfield
to get up-to-date information on marine weather forecasts.
Small Craft Warnings
If small craft warnings are broadcast for the boating area, or if storm warning
signals are displayed, don't go boating just because the sky seems clear. Learn
to respect the weather and its consequences.
Water Surfaces Give Clues to Depth
Make it a practice to study the water ahead. Deeper water is usually darker in
color and shallow water is lighter.
Ripples will build up more easily in a light breeze on water flowing over
shallows than it will in deep water. Usually, disturbed water marks the
location of underwater obstacles.
In navigable rivers, deeper water will be found on the outside of bends. At
curved sections, mud and sand bars are more likely to build up on the inside
curves.
A. BASIC RULES
Knowing the "Rules of the Road" (see back cover) is a legal requirement of all
boatmen. "Rules" are a combination of common sense principles blended with
courtesy. Courtesy involves a recognition of the other fellow's rights, comfort
and safety.
Speed limit signs are usually found at or near boat anchorage or swimming
areas.
You are expected to keep clear of boatmen engaged in fishing or swimming.
Avoiding persons engaged in water skiing or scuba diving is of prime
importance.
The privilege to use public waters carries with it an obligation to operate
your boat in a safe and courteous manner.
A cardinal principle of boating requires that you be ready at all times to
render assistance to other craft in need of aid.
If your passengers decide to swim, take a personal inventory from time to time.
Use the "buddy system" with passengers paired off, each responsible for the
other. Don't let swimmers stray too far.
CAUTION! Swim only in known waters, when the boat is securely anchored. Keep
one person, who understands the operation of the boat, on board at all times.
It is good practice to tell some responsible persons where you are going and
when you expect to return (both night and day.)

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U. S. Coast Guard Publications
You are invited to write to the U.S. Coast Guard for information relative to
boating safety. It is suggested that you indicate your particular interest in
-Taking a safe boating/seamanship course
-Applying for home study "Skipper's Course"
-Information on Federal equipment requirements
-General safe boating literature
Address your inquiry to the Coast Guard Office nearest you.
B. CHARTS
When the boatman leaves areas marked with buoys and cruises into unfamiliar
areas, a chart is a necessity. A chart is a mariner's road map. It can help you
reach a destination without jeopardizing your boat and passengers.
Most marine supply stores carry a full complement of the government charts,
tables, light lists and piloting guides needed to navigate local waters. If you
find that the store is out of stock, however, or if you require charts or other
publications for distant areas, you can obtain the necessary materials by
writing directly to the appropriate issuing office, as listed below:
1. National Ocean Survey, Distribution Division, C44, 6501 Lafayette Avenue,
Riverdale, Maryland 20840. Telephone [phone]. Publishes charts for all
U.S. coastal areas, the Great Lakes, sections of major rivers, Coast Pilots,
tide tables, tidal current tables, tidal current charts, Chart No.1, Catalogues
of NOS charts. Distributes Notice to Mariners.
2. Defense Mapping Agency Depot, 5801 Tabot Avenue, Philadelphia Pennsylvania
19120. Telephone: [phone]. Issues charts of foreign waters, a chart
catalogue and Notice to Mariners. Distributes Chart No. 1.
3. U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. The district office in each state issues
charts and chart lists for inland lakes and waterways.
4. Lake Survey Center, 630 Federal Building, Detroit, Michigan 48226. Publishes
charts of the Great Lakes and connecting rivers, lake Champlain and New York
State Canals, and a chart catalogue.
5. Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office, Washington, D.C.
20402. Distributes light lists.
6. Hydrographic Chart Distribution, Canadian Hydrographic Service, Surveys and
Mapping Building, 615 Booth Street, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada. Distributes
Canadian charts and marine publications.

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C. TYING A BOWLINE
The bowline is the seaman's most reliable and useful knot. A quick, strong
method of making an eye in a line, the bowline never slips or jams. It can be
tied in the end of a line or in the middle, with one loop or two, depending on
the situation. In fact, if a sailor were able to learn only four knots in his
life, this should be one of them. (The others are the square, the half hitch
and the figure eight.) The bowline is the knot used with your jib sheet.
Here is the simplest and most reliable method for tying the basic bowline in
a line's end:
1. Form an overhand loop, holding the junction firmly between the thumb and
fingers of your right hand.