
14 | AQUILA OPERATING MANUAL NW Explorations
3B3: Anchoring
Anchoring can be accomplished safely with a minimum of fuss if you are prepared. Or, if you are not ready, it
can be stressful and dangerous for you or the boat.
Before attempting to anchor, select an anchorage with a soft bottom such as sand, mud, or gravel, if possible.
Look at the charts and cruising guides for tips on good locations. Then, choose the spot in the anchorage
where you have room to “swing” on the anchor without disturbing other boats. Remember, responsibility for
leaving room goes to each successive boat to arrive, for the rst boat has priority in the anchorage!
Here in the Northwest, because of the deep waters, all-chain rodes and small bays, we anchor a little
differently than in the Gulf of Mexico or Carribean, for example. First, except in severe weather we use anchor
chain scopes of only 4-to-1 or 5-to-1. For example, in water that is 40 feet at low tide in the typical anchorage,
we might use 160 feet of chain unless the weather was to be gale force or greater winds.
Second, because of the small bays and steep bottoms, we often rig a shore line from the
stern of
the boat
to shore. The best example of this would be at Todd Inlet at Butchart Gardens: Here is
a bay
that can
accommodate 8 - 10 boats, yet it is only about 150’ wide and 200’ long! Boats attach their bows to the mooring
buoys or, in a few cases, anchor; and then their sterns are secured to rings provided in the steep cliffs
overlooking the bay. Boats are thus perhaps only 15-20’ apart, side to side.
Third, boats often will “raft” side by side in busy marinas, although this is not very common.
Fourth, courteous boaters will call vessels coming into busy bays and offer to let them raft to the same buoy, if
signs on the buoys do not limit usage to only one boat depending upon length.
Anchoring safely requires two persons, one at the helm maneuvering the boat and one on the bow operating
the anchor. Putting the bow of the boat over the spot where the anchor is to be placed after checking the depth
on the depth sounder, the windlass foot-switches are used to lower the anchor slowly toward (but not onto) the
bottom, by watching the chain markings.
The 300’ chain is measured by marks on the chain as follows (shown on a plaque at the lower helm):
10’ Red-Yellow-Red Strip
50’ Yellow Stripe 100’ Red Stripe
150’ Yellow Stripe 200’ Red Stripe
250’ Yellow Stripe 290’ Red-Yellow-Red Stripe
When the anchor is about to reach bottom, the boat is backed away by putting the engines into reverse for 5
seconds: eddies from the chain indicate motion. Resume lowering the anchor while drifting backwards (watch
the eddies and add another burst or reverse if necessary!) until the desired amount of chain is out. Stop paying
out chain. Engage reverse for ve seconds at a time until t
he chain
starts to pull straight off the bow toward the
anchor. A straight chain indicates a “set” anchor!
NEVER pull on the chain for more than ve seconds, and never at any
engi
ne
RPM other than
idle! Putting the boat’s weight plus its
horsepower
on the
c
hain
forcefully
even at idle will
bend the anchor and/or damage the
mooring g
ear!
If while checking the set, the chain rumbles and clunks, and seems to release in bursts, it
means
you’re
anchoring on a rocky bottom and the anchor is not holding. Be patient: it may not set on the rst try, and you’ll
have to repeat the process sometimes to get a good “set”.