
16 | ANAMCARA OPERATING MANUAL NW Exploraons
3B3: Anchoring
Anchoring can be accomplished safely with a minimum of fuss if you are prepared. Or, if you are not ready, it can be
stressful and dangerous for you or the boat.
Before aempng to anchor, select an anchorage with a so boom such as sand, mud, or gravel, if possible. Look
at the charts and cruising guides for ps on good locaons. Then, choose the spot in the anchorage where you have
room to “swing” on the anchor without disturbing other boats. Remember, responsibility for leaving room goes to each
successive boat to arrive, for the rst boat has priority in the anchorage!
Here in the Northwest, because of the deep waters, all-chain rodes and small bays, we anchor a lile dierently than in
the Gulf of Mexico or Carribean, for example. First, except in severe weather we use anchor chain scopes of only 4-to-1
or 5-to-1. For example, in water that is 40 feet at low de in the typical anchorage, we might use 160 feet of chain unless
the weather was to be gale force or greater winds.
Second, because of the small bays and steep booms, we oen rig a shore line from the stern of the boat to shore. The
best example of this would be at Todd Inlet at Butchart Gardens: Here is a bay that can accommodate 8 - 10 boats, yet
it is only about 150’ wide and 200’ long! Boats aach their bows to the mooring buoys or, in a few cases, anchor; and
then their sterns are secured to rings provided in the steep clis overlooking the bay. Boats are thus perhaps only 15-20’
apart, side to side.
Third, boats oen will “ra” side by side in busy marinas, although this is not very common. Fourth, courteous boaters
will call vessels coming into busy bays and oer to let them ra to the same buoy, if signs on the buoys do not limit usage
to only one boat depending upon length.
Anchoring safely requires two persons, one at the helm maneuvering the boat and one on the bow operang the anchor.
Pung the bow of the boat over the spot where the anchor is to be placed aer checking the depth on the depth
sounder, the windlass foot-switches are used to lower the anchor slowly toward (but not onto) the boom, by watching
the chain markings.
The chain is measured by marks on the chain as follows:
25’ White 125’ Blue and White
50’ Red 150’ Red and Blue
75’ Red and White 200’ Green
100’’ Blue 250’ Green and Red and Zip Tie
(End of chain about 10’ from 250’ mark)
When the anchor is about to reach boom, the boat is backed away by pung the engines into reverse for 5 seconds:
eddies from the chain indicate moon. Resume lowering the anchor while driing back- wards (watch the eddies and
add another burst or reverse if necessary!) unl the desired amount of chain is out. Stop paying out chain. Engage
reverse for ve seconds at a me unl the chain starts to pull straight o the bow toward the anchor. A straight chain
indicates a “set” anchor!
NEVER pull on the chain for more than ve seconds, and never at any engine RPM other than idle! Pung the boat’s
weight plus its horsepower on the chain forcefully even at idle will bend the anchor and/or damage the mooring gear!
If while checking the set, the chain rumbles and clunks, and seems to release in bursts, it means you’re anchoring on
a rocky boom and the anchor is not holding. Be paent: it may not set on the rst try, and you’ll have to repeat the
process somemes to get a good “set”.