Olimpia GEPIDA User manual

The road is just an option...OWNERS MANUAL BEDIENUNGSANLEITUNG HASZNÁLATI ÚTMUTATÓ

492345671General advice regarding the user guide and warranty booklet051Legislative provisions and information052Personalised bicycle settings General safety advice053Technical inspection procedure 0540530General guidance on assembly and safety56Steering56Adjusting the height of a quill stem56Adjusting the height of an “A-Head” stem57Stems with adjustable angle58Saddle and seatpost58Saddle58Adjusting the height of the saddle59Spring seatpost59Pedals60Drivetrain system60Derailleurs61External derailleur gear systems61Derailleur gear systems: control and readjustment62Checking and adjusting the stopping points on shifters63Front derailleur63Fine-tuning63Hub gear64Chain65Brakes66Cantilevered brake, V-brake66Hydraulic brakes66Disc brakes67Rim brakes67Maintenance and replacement of brake pads68Headset 68Traditional headset68Checking the play and free rotation of the headset 69Adjusting a traditional headset69“A-head” headset69Wheels70Spokes70Rims71Hubs71Rubber tire, inner tube, air pressure72Valve types72Frame and fork73Frame73Fork73Telescopic forks73Setting the telescopic forks74Rear shock7412348ENGLISH52Maintenance overview55

5012345678Technical data83Correct tire pressures by bicycle type83Correct tire pressure: conversion from PSI to bar83Tightening torques for screw bindings84Bolt assemblies important for safety85Tightening torques for Shimano parts86List of wearing parts88Proper use and description of bicycle types89What to do in case of a puncture?75Patching75Quick-release skewers (or clamps) and their use76Quick-release skewer76Lighting77Locating malfunctions of the lighting system78Luggage rack and carrying luggage78Carrying luggage on a full-suspension bicycle78Transporting children on a bicycle78Child trailers for bicycles79Laws relating to child trailers79FenderAccessories and other equipment80The proper cycling helmet 80Cycling gloves and clipless pedals80Proper clothing80Cycling in bad weather81Accessories81The proper bicycle lock81Riding safely on the road81Bicycle care82Cleaning and caring for your bicycle82Storing your bicycle82657Pedelec,What else needs to be considered in connection with a pedelec?90Notes regarding the electrical system91Charging device91Maintenance and care 91Wear and liability 918ENGLISH80Lighting equipment87Special regulations for S-pedelecs92Riding an S-pedelec on cycle paths92Replacing parts of an S-pedelec93Environmental protection tips93

If you see the above symbol in the user guide, please pay particular attention to that section as it contains important information.If you see the above symbol in the user guide, the given section concerns a subject related to your personal safety. If you do not follow the instructions found there, you could be risking your safety, or even your life.Dear Buyer,Congratulations on your purchase of a new bicycle! Thank you for choosing a high-quality product of Olimpia Bicycle Manufacturing Ltd. This user guide and warranty booklet will help you to learn about the technical aspects of today's bicycles and will ease the use and handling of your bicycle. In addition, you will find key information here about the care, maintenance, and safe use of your bicycle.Given the large number of parts used in bicycle manufacturing, the present user guide covers only the most important subassemblies.You will find more detailed information about individual parts in the attached presentations prepared by their manufacturers.Before setting out on your first trip, we recommend that you take time to read the user guide and presentation prepared by the parts' manufacturers carefully.5112345678ENGLISH

Legislative provisions and informationProvisions relating to bicycle lightingAccording to the rules of the international highway code:bicycles must be equipped with a dynamo, and one front and one rear light providing active lighting. Obligatory bicycle accessories prescribed by the relevant decree of the Ministry of Transport, Communications, and Energy of Hungary:1. White or amber front light.2. Red rear light.3. Red rear prism reflector4. Two independent brakes.5. Bell6. Amber prism reflector across the spokes of at least the front wheel.If any of these accessories are missing, the authorities may impose a fine!Recommended bicycle accessories according to the decree of the Ministry of Transport, Communications, and Energy of Hungary:a. Amber prism reflectors on the pedal and between the spokesb. Width indicating prism reflector mounted on an armc. Rear-view mirrord. FenderYou can find the exact text of the regulation below:Technical criteria for operating a bicycleDecree no. 6/1990 (IV. 12.) of the Ministry of Transport, Communications, and EnergyOn the technical criteria of bringing into and maintaining in circulation road transport vehiclesSection 116 (1) The bicycle must be equipped with:a) an easy-to-handle and reliable steering system (handlebar),b) two brake systems that can be operated independently of each other, and one of which acts on the front, the other on the rear wheel,c) an audible warning device, which may only be a bell, d) a front lamp emitting white or cadmium yellow light,e) a rear position lamp emitting red light visible from at least 150 meters in the dark in clear weather,f) one or two red, symmetrically positioned light reflectors that are not triangular in shape,g) one amber lateral reflector prism, reflective on both sides, placed on at least the front wheel (spoke reflector).The light reflector prescribed in item g) must be fitted onto bicycles by December 31, 1991.(2) The bicycle may be equipped with- on its front a white light reflector,- on its sides and on the front and rear of both pedals amber light reflectors, as well as a width indicator positioned on the left side of the bicycle, containing a white light reflector towards the front and a red one towards the rear.(3) The light reflectors mounted on the bicycle must be visible in clear weather in the dark from 150 meters from a vehicle whose main beam is illuminating them.(4) Bicycles with more than two wheels and wider than 0.80 m must be equipped on both sides with the lighting and light reflecting devices listed in items d)-f) of Article 1. These devices may not be more than 0.15 m from the widest point of the vehicle or closer than 0.60 m to each other.(5) A child seat may only be mounted on a bicycle in such as a way that the seat and the child sitting on it do not obstruct the visibility and control of the rider, and do not cover the lighting and light reflecting devices of the bicycle. The seat must also be fitted with hand- and footrests. The seat and its hand- and footrests may not be connected with the steered wheel or the structure that turns with it.(6) A two-track single-axle trailer max. 0.70 m wide and of max. 70 kg total weight may be attached to the bicycle (bicycle trailer).(7) The bicycle trailer must be equipped witha) on its rear a red, triangular light reflector (light reflector prescribed for trailers) positioned on or to the left of the median plane of the trailer, at a height of min. 0.35 m and max. 0.60 m from the road surface,b) a rear position lamp identical to that prescribed for the bicycle. The electric switching of the rear position lamp of the bicycle trailer must ensure that switching it on causes the position lamp of the bicycle to switch off.(8) The electric switching of the bicycle's lighting must ensure that all lights are switched on/off together.(9) The lighting and light reflecting devices of the bicycle must be positioned as follows:a) With regard to Article 1,- the light mentioned in item d),- the rear (red) position light mentioned in item e), and- the rear (red) light reflector(s) mentioned in item f) and the front (white) light reflector mentioned in Article (2) must be positioned on the longitudinal vertical median plane of the bicycle in such a way that: - none of them is closer than 0.35 m to the road surface,- the lights are not farther than 0.90 m from the road surface,- the light reflectors are not farther than 0.60 m from the road surface.b) The (amber) lateral reflector prism (spoke reflector) mentioned in item g) of Article (1) mounted on the wheel must be positioned at a distance of 0.10-0.15 m from the tire.c) The width indicator mentioned in Article (2) must be positioned 0.30-0.40 meters to the left of the longitudinal vertical median plane of the bicycle, at a height of 0.35-0.60 m from the road surface.5212345678ENGLISH

Figure 2Figure 3Personalised bicycle settings In the following we will present the fine-tuning of the saddle and handlebar.Figure 2:The height of the saddle is set correctly if sitting on it with your leg extended you can touch the pedal in its lowest position with your heel. This must be set before adjusting the angle and horizontal position of the saddle.Figure 3:After you have completed all settings and tightened the necessary screws/bolts with the prescribed torque (see: Technical data), check once more that all settings are correct by sitting on the saddle and placing your heel onto the pedal in its lowest position: if your knee is slightly bent, the setting is correct. For any adjustment you perform on your bicycle you will need experience, dexterity, and the correct tools. You will find the tightening torques to be used on bolt assemblies in the “Technical data” section of the user guide or in the descriptions provided by the manufacturers of parts. If you have any doubts, or wish to perform settings on the bicycle that affect safety, turn to your specialist dealer.General safety adviceYour new bicycle is a technical instrument that requires regular maintenance to retain its proper condition and for you to enjoy it. You will find detailed information on the correct maintenance of your bicycle in the “Technical inspection procedure” section, directly after this chapter.You will find the technical specifications of your bicycle, such as its maximum permitted load and/or loadability (the latter is indicated on the luggage rack) in the “Technical details” section. Overloading the bicycle may lead to the breakage of its main parts or other malfunctions, which may endanger both the bicycle and your physical integrity.Please, check your bicycle before each use! (You will find details of this in Article 1 of the “Technical inspection procedure”).Parts that become damaged due to an accident or improper use must be replaced immediately. If you lack the necessary experience and technical instruments for the repair, visit a specialist service centre.Before making any conversion to the bicycle, please consult your specialist dealer or the manufacturer, as otherwise the conversion might lead to the breakage of the frame or fork. In case of unprofessional conversion the warranty becomes void!A child seat and/or trailer cannot be fitted to every bicycle model – for information, please consult your specialist dealer. The following items of advice concern your personal safety!Always cycle according to traffic conditions, ready to brake if necessary!Do not cycle with your hands off the handlebar!Ride particularly carefully on wet roads, as your braking distance could double!For your own safety, always wear light-coloured clothing (with a reflective strip on it, if possible) and a helmet!Switch on the bicycle's lights in bad weather and after twilight!Ride only as fast as your cycling skills allow!5312345678ENGLISH

Technical inspection procedureThe chapter on technical inspection is divided into two parts:1. Parts that must be checked before each ride Braking and brake padsBrake lever (check its play)Stable attachment of the crank arm and pedalsCorrect setting of the telescopic forkAny tears or foreign bodies on the tires?Tire pressureLighting equipment and dynamoAttachment of the fender and rackSecure position of the quick-release skewers/clamps (front and rear wheel, saddle)Minimum height setting of the seatpost and stemFunctioning of acoustic devices (e.g. bell) 2. Parts that need to be checked periodicallyEach bolt assembly must be re-tightened with the correct torqueSecure position and unobstructed motion of the bottom bracket Attachment of the chainring(s) Attachment of the pedalsGear shifting settings, front and rear derailleur gears for models with external shifters Wear of the chain and cassettePower Modulator for V-brakesAny wear or rusting of Bowden cablesPlay and free movement of the headsetSetting of the rear shock Play of the spring-action seatpostSpokes are tight and in true5412345678ENGLISH

At home or on the road After 100-150 km When? What? Where?Maintenance overviewChain maintenance with suitable lubricant (your specialist dealer can advise you)After 150 – 200 km, and depending on mileage at least once a year Tightening all screws/bolts on the bicycle with the correct torque, re-adjusting derailleur gears/shifters and brakes, checking the lighting equipment, checking the tightness of spokes and truing them, shocks, crank arm, headset, handlebar, stemAfter 500 – 1000 kmChecking the wear of the chain and cassette. Checking the telescopic fork and the rear In a specialist service centre In a specialist service centreAfter approx. 1500 kmDismantling, cleaning, and lubricating the hubs. Checking the wear of the hub gear, chain, and cassette. Checking the rear shock (and its air pressure, if applicable), dismantling and lubricating the telescopic fork, replacing faulty partsIn a specialist service centre After approx. 3000 kmMajor overhaul, dismantling, cleaning, lubricating all bearings and if necessary, replacing them, replacing the chain and cassette (with hub gear, as well). Re-tightening all screws/bolts.Before each rideSee Article 1In a specialist service centreAt home or on the roadAfter any off-road rideRemoving the dirt from the bicycle with lukewarm water, cleaning and lubricating the chain. Never use a high-pressure water jet to clean your bicycle, as it would wash out the lubricant from the bearings.At home or on the road5512345678ENGLISH

General guidance on assembly and safetySteeringThe steering assembly consists of the following: handlebar, stem, headset, grips, brake lever, shifters, and bell. Stems are available in the most diverse shapes, diameters, and materials. The type of handlebar we fit on our bicycles is essentially the one most suited to their intended use. Never replace the handlebar without asking advice from your specialist dealer.We can distinguish two different stem types: 1: Quill stems with adjustable height and 2: “A-Head” threadless stems, which form part of the headset, and are attached directly to the fork tube with two Allen screws. With “A-head” stems, the tightness of the headset can be set through the stem. The height of “A-Head” stems can only be adjusted minimally, and they are used mainly on MBT-, trekking-, and nowadays increasingly on racing bicycles. This stem type allows the rider to take up a sporty and aerodynamic sitting position, moving the centre of gravity onto the front axle. However, this sporty position places increased stress on the wrists and reduces comfort. Traditional quill stems are of adjustable height: a “STOP” mark can be found on every quill stem, indicating the maximum height to which they can be pulled out.The minimum insertion depth of the stem is 65 mm. If you are replacing the stem with a longer one, make sure that the brake- and shift cables are of sufficient length and do not obstruct the free movement of the handlebar; otherwise there is a risk of accident during quick manoeuvres to avoid objects. If necessary, replace the Bowden cables (or get them replaced) with longer ones.Adjusting the height of a quill stemThe height of a quill stem can be adjusted by loosening its bolt.Insert an appropriate tool (at least 6 mm Allen key) into the bolt socket and give it about threefull anticlockwise turns. If the stemstill does not move freely, loosen it by lightly tapping it with a rubber or plastic mallet. Set the loosened stem to the required height. Please take care not to pull out the stem beyond the maximum allowed height and that the brake and shift Bowden cables do not obstruct the free movement of the handlebar. Align the stem with the front wheel and secure it by tightening the bolt. Check that the stem is secured correctly by applying slight force to the handlebar to try and turn it with respect to the front wheel (do not use excessive force!).Figure 45612345678ENGLISH

Figure 6Figure 7Figure 5Adjusting the height of an “A-Head” stemDue to their design, the height of “A-Head” stems can only be adjusted slightly. One possibility is to replace the adjusting rings. In most cases this only enables a height adjustment of max. 5 mm, since to safely secure the stem a surface of sufficient size is necessary on the fork tube. A more sensible solution is to replace the “A-head” stem. “A-head” stems are available in different lengths and angles, so that everyone can find the sitting position most suitable for them.Stems for which the handlebars can be replaced using a clamp, without having to remove the grips and the shifter offer a particularly practical solution.The angle of stems offered to cross-country cyclists is usually between 0 - 5°, their maximum length is 135 mm; however, in exceptional cases even longer stems can be available. This, however, reduces the steerability of the bicycle, and it will tend to run in a straight line. The shorter the stem, the easier it is to turn the bicycle; on the other hand, the bicycle will be more “restless” when ridden downhill fast.A sportos Cross-country kerékpárosok részére elérhetők kormányszárak általában 0 és 5 fokos szög közöttiek, maximális hosszúságuk 135 mm. Those who take frequent bike trips usually choose a shorter stem with a greater angle (over 10°) which allows a straight-backed riding position. Downhill riders prefer extremely short (approx. 80 mm) and steeply angled (approx. 30°) stems. With general use, the handlebar should be higher than the saddle, as this affords maximum control on steep downhill stretches, as well.To replace the stem, undo the bolts on its top and remove the handlebar (Figure 5). Next, undo completely the bolt of the stem cap fixer. Remove the stem cap fixer (Figure 6), then undo the bolts on the side to remove the stem.Take the new stem and temporarily secure the handlebar with the clamp. Next, place the stem onto the fork tube. Place the “A-Head” stem cap fixer over the socket of the stem, and insert the socket bolt. Tighten the bolt to set the tightness of the headset. If the headset has no play, and can be easily rotated, the stem must be secured with one or two bolts. Ensure that the stem is aligned with the front wheel when it is facing forward. Finally, adjust the handlebar so that your hand and lower arm are aligned, then tighten the bolts on the front of the stem. Check that the stem is secured correctly by applying slight force to the handlebar to try and turn it with respect to the front wheel (do not use excessive force!).5712345678ENGLISH

Stems with adjustable angleThe angle of some stems – both traditional and “A-Head”– is adjustable. Loosen the angle adjustment bolt (using the bolt on the top/bottom of the stem or the stem bolt) and set the required angle, then tighten the angleadjustment bolt (Figure 8). Do not forget that if you change the angle of the stem, you might need to re-adjust the handlebar. The general rule still holds: your hand and lower arm should be aligned. After a fall, crash, or jump, check that the stem and the handlebar are not damaged. Check that the stem and the handlebar are not bent, and have not been dangerously overloaded. If you notice any damage or have any doubts, replace the relevant parts.You should also bear in mind that similarly to all safety elements of the bicycle, the handlebar also has “memory”: damages (falls, overload) leave their trace and their impact adds up over time. There comes a point when the part can no longer handle any more stress and breaks. Keep in mind any possible or previous damage, and for your own interest replace the necessary parts before they become damaged.Figure 8Figure 9Figure 10Saddle and seatpost SaddleThe angle and longitudinal position of the saddle are determined by your personal preferences. It is important that you feel comfortable on your bicycle and can ride even long distances without feeling unpleasant pressure. In most cases, the initial setting made at the specialist dealership is not sufficient for this, and you may even need to consider buying a differently shaped saddle. Many different types of saddles are available nowadays, and it is not simple to select the most suitable one.As a result, the saddle is in most cases set to a level position, which takes the strain off the arms and wrists.To adjust the horizontal position and/or angle of the saddle, loosen the bolt at the top of the seatpost. Push the saddle to the required position and re-tighten the mounting bolt of the seatpost. Check the stability of the saddle by forcefully attempting to change its angle. With traditional saddles, you will need a spanner (size 13 or 14) to adjust their position, while with modern saddle attachment systems, an Allen key (size 5 or 6). (Figure 10)5812345678ENGLISH

Figure 11Figure 12Figure 13Figure 14SaddleAdjusting the height of the saddleUndo the bolt that secures the seatpost or open the quick-release clamp, then set the saddle to the required height. Next, secure the seatpost by tightening the bolt or closing the quick-release clamp. Check that the saddle is secure by gripping its front and rear and attempting to turn it. Make sure that the seatpost can be moved easily within the frame and that it is greased (except with carbon seatposts!). Never use force to press the seatpost into the seat tube It is extremely important that you respect the STOP, MAX, and MIN markings! These must always be observed and should never be exceeded.“Stop” mark on the seatpost Never pull out the seatpost beyond the STOP mark, otherwise the seatpost, seat tube, or frame might break, which could lead to a serious accident. The minimum insertion depth of the seatpost is 2.5 times its diameter.Example: For a seatpost with a diameter of 25.0 mm the minimum insertion depth is 62.5mm. If the seatpost is too short, you need to purchase a new one. The diameter of the seatpost is indicated on its bottom; therefore you will not need callipers. Should you have any doubts about the adjustment of the seatpost, please turn to your specialist dealer. With frames on which the seat tube extends beyond the top tube, the seatpost must be inserted at least under the top tube or to the height of the rear seatstay. In this case the calculation method described above is not applicable! Spring seatpostOn frames without a rear shock the spring seatpost takes the strainoff the spine and spinal discs. Most designs have a spring displacement of 40 mm, and can be adjusted according to your weight with an Allen key (Figure 14). Please, read the attached information booklet of the manufacturer carefully!5912345678ENGLISH

Figure 15/1Figure 15/2Figure 17Figure 16Figure 15/3PedalsPedals come in a great variety of shapes, sizes, and qualities. In the basic case, the right-hand side pedal (marked with an “R”) has a right-hand thread, and the left-hand side pedal (marked with an “L”) has a left-hand thread. For both pedals this means that they can be tightened towards the front wheel and loosened towards the rear– you will need a size 15, preferably long spanner. If you are using clipless pedals (Figure 15/1), please practice getting on/off the pedals with the bicycle at rest. The release strength of most clipless pedals can be adjusted. Please read the attached information booklet of the manufacturer carefully!Drivetrain systemThe bicycle's drivetrain system consists of the following components: bottom bracket, crank with pedals, chain, and cassette (cogset).The bottom bracket is a part exposed to great stress, which fulfils its function almost unnoticed. Nowadays, the use of maintenance-free industrial bottom brackets on bicycles is on the increase. Manufacturers distinguish between two types of bottom bracket spindles: the traditional rectangular spindle, and bottom brackets connecting with several splines, which ensure a more durable and better transmission of force.The most common bottom brackets follow the traditional BSA system (left-and right-threaded), or have an Italian thread, with a shell width of 68 or 73 mm. The width of the shell depends on the frame. In most cases, BSA threads are used, with a shell width of 68 mm. Besides these, spindle designs of different lengths also exist, depending on the crank used and the shape of the frame.Please check the secure attachment of the bottom bracket regularly (Figure 16).The crankset consists of right- and left parts. The chainrings are found on the right-hand side (1, 2 or 3 chainrings, depending on the design). Please check the tightness of the crank regularly. No play should be felt. An incorrectly fitted crank could damage the rectangular spindle, and lead to its breakage. If the crank is not tight enough, immediately tighten its mounting bolt. If you do not have the appropriate tool (Figure 17), please turn to your specialist service centre.The chain, cassette, and chainrings are wearing parts. Their service life depends on the extent of their use.6012345678ENGLISH

Since external derailleur gear systems are located on the outside of the bicycle and are not equipped with any protection, you should, if possible, wear tightly fitting trousers or use a clip to secure trouser legs so that they do not get pinched by the chain or cogs. This reduces the risk of falls. We can distinguish three types of shifters: grip shifts (Figure 20/1), shift levers (Figure 20/2) and combined brake and shift levers (Figures 20/3 and 20/4).Shift levers have two functions: you can switch to a bigger cog with your thumb, or to a smaller one with your index finger. This means that by applying pressure to the left-hand side shifter with your thumb the front derailleur will move to a bigger chainring, resulting in a more demanding transmission ratio. The same movement on the right-hand side shifter produces an easier transmission. Grip shifts work on a similar principle. In general, if you rotate the grip shift towards yourself, you switch to a bigger cog, and in the opposite direction to a smaller one.On combined brake- and shift levers the same lever functions as both brake and shift lever. Pull the lever to brake, and rotate it to shift between gears. Nowadays, use of this system has spread beyond racing bikes.DerailleursThe derailleur gears of the bicycle bring the rider's performance and desired speed in line with terrain conditions. Derailleur gears do not affect the amount of physical work to be performed, as work= force x distance. Derailleur gears basically influence the amount of force that needs to be exerted and the distance travelled. In practice, this means that if you shift to a low gear when riding uphill, you will need to exert only a small amount of force, but due to the high number of pedal turns you will travel more slowly.If you shift to a high gear when cycling downhill, you will travel a greater distance with a single turn of the pedal, and accordingly will travel faster.To be able to ride even longer distances without getting exhausted and to utilise your optimum performance, cycle with a cadence of 70 - 100 (number of crank revolutions per minute). External derailleur gear systemsExternal derailleur gear systems consist of the following: front and rear derailleurs and shifters.The task of the front derailleur (Figure 18) is to move the chain between the front chainrings (2 or 3 chainrings). With the rear derailleur (Figure 19) the correct transmission ratio can be selected from usually 10 rear cogs. Derailleurs can be operated with the shifters mounted on the handlebar. In most cases, the left-hand side shifter controls the front, and the right-hand side the rear derailleur.Figure 20/1Figure 20/2Figure 20/3Figure 20/4Figure 19Figure 186112345678ENGLISH

6212345678 Try to avoid gears that make the chain cross over at an extreme angle, as they greatly increase its wear and internal resistance, and lead to the premature wearing away of cogs (Figure 21). Derailleur gear systems: control and readjustmentThe shifters of your new bicycle were set correctly at the specialist dealership. Nonetheless, the Bowden shift cables may stretch, causing the incorrect functioning of the shifter. Since all shift systems operate on the principle of tensile stress, the shift cables must be tightened properly to ensure correct shifting.1. One way to do this is by turning the adjustment screw located on the shifter or shift lever to the left. Always turn the adjustment screw only a little, and keep checking whether the shifter works correctly. As a rule of thumb, two quarter-turn adjustments are better than a single half-turn one. If the chain no longer passes freely from the biggest cog to the smallest one, the shift cable is too tight, and should be loosened by turning the adjustment screw to the right in small steps.2. If the tension of the shift cable can no longer be set correctly with the adjustment screw, undo the screw that secures the shift cable and pull the cable tighter. Make sure that the adjustment screw is not fully tightened – this way you can loosen the shift cable if you have overtightened it. Try shifting gears: if it does not work correctly, repeat the steps described in Article 1.Figure 21The most frequently used shift systems are manufactured by SHIMANO and CAMPAGNOLO.In SHIMANO's “Dual Control” system (Figure 20/3) you must press the whole lever inwards to switch to a bigger cog. If you press the small lever, the shifter moves the chain onto a smaller cog.Shifting on mountain bikes follows the same principle (Figure 20/4): depending on the design, by pressing the whole lever down you can switch to a bigger rear cog, and by lifting the lever with a finger to a smaller one. To help cyclists get used to shifting down a gear, these levers are equipped with a removable extra lever.In the CAMPAGNOLO Ergo-Power integrated gearshift and brake lever system you can shift to a bigger cog by pressing the lever underneath the brake lever. Use the thumb shifter next to it to shift to a smaller cog. The current product offer of CAMPAGNOLO does not contain any integrated gearshift and brake lever systems for mountain bikes.Never shift gears using both levers of the same shifter at the same time!Never shift gears if the bicycle is at rest!Do not pedal backwards while shifting gears!Do not use force to shift gears! To assist the smooth transition of the chain between cogs, it is important that you ride at a steady speed while shifting gears. If possible, refrain from shifting gears under a heavy load, as this greatly increases the wear of the chain and chainrings.ENGLISH

. Checking and adjusting the stopping points on shifters You will find two screws on the shifter with which you can adjust the stopping points of shifting. These screws are usually marked with an “H” for “high gear” (smallest cog) and “L” for ”low gear” (biggest cog). By turning the screw inwards, you shorten (restrict) the shifting path for the given side. By turning it outwards, you lengthen (loosen) the shifting path. The two screws (“H” and “L”) must be set in such a way that the cage should alternately align with the biggest and smallest cog. In these two positions the cage must not move farther in than the biggest cog or farther out than the smallest one. With the screw marked “H” on the shifter, the hardest gear (smallest cog) can be set, and with the screw marked “L”, the easiest one (biggest cog).If the shifter is not correctly adjusted, the chain can get stuck between the spokes (in this case, the adjustment screw marked “L” must be tightened), or between the bottom cog and the frame (in this case, the adjustment screw marked “H” must be tightened). Please note that the stopping points of shifting must be set with the Bowden shift cables loose.Front derailleur The front derailleur must be secured in such a way that the chain guide is positioned over the biggest chainring, without touching it in its highest position. The minimum distance between the front derailleur and the biggest chainring is 3 mm. The chain guide must be parallel to the chainFine-tuningWith the two screws (“High” and “Low”) the stopping points of shifting can be set. The screw marked “Low” regulates the internal shifting point. To do this, shift to the biggest cog on the rear and the smallest chainring on the front. The chain should not touch the inside of the frame. However, the distance between them should be kept minimal. If you would like to adjust the screw marked “Low”, you can re-adjust the tension of the shift cable. Shift to the smallest cog on the rear and the biggest chainring on the front. The chain should not touch the front derailleur in this case, either. Using the screw marked “High”, set the external shifting point to the tightest possible position. Please note that the shift cables should be loosened when setting the stopping points of the front derailleur, as well.The length of the shifting path necessary to shift to a given gear can only be set on the shift lever. Correctly setting the shifter requires dexterity and experience. If you would rather not perform this setting by yourself, turn to a specialist service centre. An incorrectly adjusted shift system can cause serious mechanical damage to your bicycle. To ensure the correct setting, please read the user guide provided by the manufacturer of the shift system.6312345678ENGLISH

Figure 22/2Figure 22/1There are great differences between the methods used to set the different systems. Usually two markings need to be aligned on the hub or the Bowden cable. With hub gears, too, the required speed is set through the correct tension of the shift cable. To set the shifting path, most grip shifts are equipped with an adjustment screw, with the exception of the 14-speed “Rohloff” hub gear design, the so-called “Speedhub 14/500”. Due to the relatively small differences between speed settings, this hub gear is designed primarily for the needs of mountain bike riders who prefer a sporty riding style, but it is also suitable for those using of touring and trekking bikes. Correctly setting the shifter requires dexterity and experience. If you would rather not perform this setting by yourself, turn to a specialist service centre. An incorrectly adjusted shift system can cause serious mechanical damage to your bicycle. To ensure the correct setting, please read the user guide provided by the manufacturer of the shift system.Hub gearThe epicyclic gearing inside the rear hub controls the gear ratio between the ring gear and the hub. The inner sun gear uses an arm to shift between gears (3-speed hub gear).This gear design is becoming increasingly popular due to its minimal maintenance need.Thanks to its integrated design, the greatest part of the gear system is located inside the hub, which makes it almost fully resistant to dust and other forms of contamination. A great variety of hub gears can be found on the market today, from which the most widely used are the products of SRAM and SHIMANO. With 3-, 4-, 5-, 7- or 8 speeds, an automatic shifting system and different brake systems (e.g. rim brakes), these shift systems can satisfy every individual need.A further advantage of hub gears is that the chain is not actively involved in the shifting process, but always moves along a straight line, which greatly reduces its wear in comparison with external shift systems.Nowadays, almost all hub gears are controlled by a grip shift which indicates the speed setting.6412345678ENGLISH

The chain belongs to the wearing parts of the bicycle, but as we have already mentioned above, you can greatly extend its service life. The service life of the chain also depends on the shift system. With external shift systems, the chain may need to be replaced already after 2000-3000 km. With hub gears, this value can be twice as high, depending on the degree of care and your cycling style. . With external shift systems, you can check the wear of the chain by pinching it together with your left hand at the chain stay and attempting to take it off the chainring with your right hand. If little force is needed to remove the chain, it is probably very stretched and needs to be replaced. With hub gears, the yield of the chain should not exceed 1-2 cm. If this is not the case, the chain needs to be tightened by loosening both nuts on the rear axle (on models with coaster brakes the clutch, as well) and pulling the released wheel back until the chain becomes sufficiently tight. Set the rear wheel in the correct position and tighten its mounting bolts and the clutch (if there is one). The state of wear of your chain can be measured precisely at your specialist service centre using special instruments. Replacing the chain requires special tools and experience. Ask your specialist service centre for help in selecting the correct chain, and have them fit it on your bicycle. Attention: a badly assembled chain can lead to serious falls and considerable damage of your bicycle.Figure 23ChainThe chain plays a key role in the effortless and quick progress of the bicycle, as it transmits the force exerted by the rider. In the ideal case, one or two percent of the exerted force is lost between the crank and the rear wheel. No matter how robust a chain might appear, it suffers from a “chronic illness”: link wear. In the case sport cyclists, the chain must transmit a huge amount of torque to the cogs. In addition, it is relentlessly exposed to contamination, and possibly to rain or water splashes, which cause stress to the links and wear them away. This can only be prevented with a fully enclosed chain protection system, as this is the only sure way to keep the chain free from contamination.Since such a system is only used on “Holland” type bicycles, the chain requires regular maintenance.For this, use wax, mineral oil, grease, or Teflon/silicone spray available at specialist dealerships. To reduce the wear of the chain and extend its service life, make sure to perform maintenance on it after rain and every off-road ride. With external gear shift systems, avoid chainring-cog combinations that cause the chain to cross over at an extreme angle – if possible, shift up or down one chainring. Make sure to remove any excess lubricant from the chain during its maintenance. Sand and dirt can stick to excess lubricant on the chain, greatly increasing its wear. Please respect the prescribed maintenance intervals.Since close to 100% of lubricants used on a bicycle's chain end up in the groundwater, in particular those who ride in forests and on terrain should ensure that they use a non-toxic, biologically degradable lubricant. Please do not use gear oil, which is mistakenly hailed as a “miracle product”.6512345678ENGLISH

Hydraulic brakesIn hydraulic brakes, braking power is transmitted not by Bowden cables, but through the medium of oil. Their operational principle is the following: through a mechanical system the brake lever exerts pressure on the master cylinder, which in turn squeezes the oil through the brake line onto the brake cylinder with a specific leverage. Due to the difference between the diameters of the piston rod and of the brake piston, the braking pressure will be higher at the latter, which presses the attached brake pads to the rim.Hydraulic brake systems have several advantages. Brake cables are not exposed to rusting, and even if they are routed along the frame with several sharp bends, there is no loss of braking power. Braking power is between good and very good, with good manageability and controllable application. Hydraulic brakes require only minimal maintenance, and should maintenance become necessary (e.g. because of a fall or the special position of the brake pipe), special service sets exist to assist with it. The correct setting of the brake requires dexterity and experience. If you would rather not perform this setting by yourself, turn to a specialist service centre. An incorrectly adjusted brake can cause serious mechanical damage to your bicycle. To ensure the correct setting, please read the user guide provided by the manufacturer of the brake system.BrakesCantilever brake and V- brake Today's modern bicycles are equipped with a so-called V-brake, which exerts the braking force on the wheel rim. This brake system makes the braking triangle of former cantilever brakes obsolete, and the brake cable can be routed to the brake pads without having to secure it to the frame or fork. Centering of the brake is assisted by dust-protected stretch springs and fine-tuning screws.Most V-brakes are equipped with rubber brake pads situated – as with cantilevered brakes – in front of the brake body. Imprecision in the setting of brake pads can be simply corrected with the semicircular washer. Attention: V-brakes have great braking power! Brake carefully at first, so that you can get to know your brake system. For a controlled brake path, regulate the braking power simultaneously with the two brake levers. The correct setting of the brake requires dexterity and experience. If you would rather not perform this setting by yourself, turn to a specialist service centre. To ensure the correct setting, please read the user guide provided by the manufacturer of the brake system.Figure 24Figure 256612345678ENGLISH

Disc brakesMost disc brakes consist of the following parts: a steel brake disc secured to the wheel hub, and callipers attached to the fork and the frame. Since the brake disc rotates with a precision of a tenth of a millimetre, the distance between the brake disc and the brake pads can be minimised. Compared to brakes that act on the wheel rim, the disc brake represents an extremely efficient brake system due to its greater displacement. The high pressure required to move the pads of disc brakes is produced hydraulically. The correct setting of the brake requires dexterity and experience. If you would rather not perform this setting by yourself, turn to a specialist service centre. An incorrectly adjusted brake can cause serious mechanical damage to your bicycle. To ensure the correct setting, please read the user guide provided by the manufacturer of the brake system. The brake pads of disc brakes need to wear down sufficiently to exert their full braking force. Disc brakes can only be fitted on bicycles that have been correctly prepared for this.Figure 26Ábra 27Rim brakesRim brakes are nowadays used almost only on racing bikes. With these brakes, the brake bodies are suspended vertically and so form a closed system. Rim brakes are simply inserted into pre-bored holes to attach them to the frame or the fork. Make sure that the wheel is at the centre of the brake, and that both brake pads touch the rim at the same time when the brake lever is squeezed.If this is not the case, the brake needs to be adjusted. On brakes with a single point of rotation, turn the mounting screw to the correct position using a spanner. On brakes with two points of rotation, centre the brake with the grub screw. Always adjust the brake in small steps, and check its correct centring by squeezing the brake lever. To assist a quick wheel change, rim brakes are equipped with a quick-release clamp. Before each ride, check that this clamp is in closed position, as the brake will not function correctly if it is open. To ensure that the brake is set correctly, please read the user guide provided by the manufacturer of the brake system.6712345678ENGLISH