OLT S124D User manual

12x4 Slider Lean-To Storage Shed
Assembly Manual
Version #2.1
May 7, 2019
1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 1
In the event of a missing or broken piece, call the Outdoor Living Today Customer Support Line @ 1-888-658-1658 with-
in 30 days of the delivery of your purchase. It is our commitment to you to courier replacement parts, free of charge,
within 10 business days of this notification. Replacement parts will not be provided free of charge after the 30 day
grace period.
All structures purchased from Outdoor Living Today are covered for a period of one year for defects in manufacturing
and workmanship. Costs incurred for customer installations are not included.
Failure to use supplied parts included in this kit could result in poor product performance and may void your warranty.
Please contact Outdoor Living Today’s Customer Toll Free Line if you plan to deviate from our written instructions.
Thank you for purchasing a
12x4 Slider Lean-To Storage Shed.
Please take the time to identify all
the parts prior to assembly.
Safety Points and Other Considerations
Our products are built for use based on
proper installation on level ground and
normal residential use. Please follow the
instruction manual when building your
shed and retain the manual for future
maintenance purposes.
Customers are responsible for ensuring
a solid, level, well-draining site for
construction.
Please check with your local municipal
or county by-laws before ordering this
product to confirm it complies with
building codes.
- Snow load ratings vary by geographical location. If heavy or wet snowfall occurs, it
is advisable to sweep snow off roof frequently.
- If the product is elevated, any structural and building code requirements are solely
the customer's responsibility, and should be abided by.
- In areas with high or gusty wind conditions, it is advisable to install the structure
securely to the ground.
- Have a regular maintenance plan to ensure screws, doors, windows and parts are
tightly affixed.
Customer agrees to hold Outdoor Living Today and any Authorized
Dealers free of any liability for improper installation, maintenance and
repair.

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Page 2
Thank you for purchasing our 12x4 Slider Lean-To Storage Shed.
Please take the time to identify all the parts prior to assembly.
1. Floor Section
Floors
1A: 2 - 45 ½” x 70 ¾” - Floor Frames
1B: 4 - 1 ½” x 3 ½” x 67 3/4” - Floor Joists
1C: 7 - 1 ½” x 3 ½” x 45 ½” - Floor Runners
1D: 2 - 5/8” x 45 3/8” x 70 5/8” - Plywood Floor
2. Wall Section
Main Wall Panels
2A: 5 - 45 ½” x 75” - Side/Rear Wall Panels
2B: 5 - 1 5/8” x 2 ½” x 45 ½” - Bottom Wall Plates - Side/Rear Walls
2BB: 2 - 1 5/8” x 2 ½” x 35” - Bottom Wall Plates - Front Walls
2C: 2 - 35” x 73” - Front Wall Panels
Door Headers
2D: 2 - 2” x 3 ½” x 26 ¼” - Door Headers - Short
2E: 1 - 2” x 3 ½” x 84” - Door Header - Long (88” Aluminum Strip Attached)
Extender Walls
2F: 2 - Top Triangular Siding Pc for Angle Wall Extenders
2G: 2 - 45 ¼” - Angle Wall Extenders - Left/Right
2H: 3 - 9” x 45 ½” - Wall Extenders
Wall Cleats
2I: 1 - ¾” x 3 ½” x 84” - Horizontal Wall Cleat - Long
2J: 2 - ¾” x 3 ½” x 26 ¼” - Horizontal Wall Cleats - Short
3. Rafter and Roof Section
Rafters
3A: 9 - 1 ½” x 2 ½” x 54” - Rafters
3B: 2 - 1” x 3 ½” x 48” - Front Soffits - Left/Right
3C: 1 - 1” x 3 ½” x 45 ½” - Front Soffit - Center
3D: 2 - ½” x 3” x 48” - Rear Soffits - Left/Right
3E: 1 - ½” x 3” x 45 ½” - Rear Soffit - Center
Roofs
3F: 2 - ¾” x ¾” x 48” - Facia Nailing Strips
3G: 2 - Roof Panels - 51” w x 56” d (1 - Left 1- Right)
3H: 1 - Roof Panel - 45 ½” w x 56” d (Center)
3I: 8 - 5 ½” Wide x 16” to 18” long - Filler Shingles
4. Trim & Miscellaneous Section
Bottom Skirting
4A: 5 - ¾” x 4 ½” x 45 ¼” - Side/Rear Bottom Skirting (Bevel Siding)
4B: 3 - ½” x 4 ½” x 45 ¼” - Front Bottom Skirting
Filler Trim
4C: 4 - ½” x 2 ½” x 38” - Front Corner Filler Trims
4D: 4 - 7/8” x 2 ½” x 42” - Rear Corner Filler Trims
Door System
4E: 2 - Aluminum Door Tracks
4F: 2 - 36” x 73” - Sliding Doors
4G: 1 - ¾” x 3 ½” x 71 ¾” - Interior Door Flange
4H: 2 - 1 ½” x 2 ½” x 66 ½” - Lower Door Track
4I: 2 - ¾” x 3 ½” x 30 ½” - Lower Door Track Cover - Left/Right
4J: 1 - ¾” x 3 ½” x 72” - Lower Door Track Cover - Center
4K: 2 - ¾” x 1 ½” x 3” - Sliding Door Track Stops - Left/Right
4L: 1 - ¾” x 1 ½” x 4” - Sliding Door Track Stop - Center
Outer Wall Trim
4M: 2 - ½” x 5 ½” x 78 ½” - Front Corner Trims
4N: 2 - ½ x 2 ½” x 80” - Side Front Corner Trims
4O: 2 - ½” x 5 ½” x 88 ¾” - Rear Corner Trims
4P: 4 - ½” x 2 ½” x 88 ¾” - Side Rear Corner & Middle Trims
14-15
Steps
Steps
16-21
22
Steps
30-39
42-44
45-46
47-52
Steps
7-13
1-6
24-29
53-55
Parts List - Pages 2 and 3

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Page 3
4. Trim & Miscellaneous Section Cont.
Facia
4Q: 2 - ½” x 5 ½” x 54 1/8” - Side Facia (Angle Cut Ends)
4R: 4 - ½” x 5 ½” x 50 ½” - Front and Rear Facia - Left/Right
4S: 2 - ½” x 5 ½” x 45 ½” - Front and Rear Facia - Center
4T: 4 - Facia Detail Plates (5 ½” high)
Ridge Boards
4U: 3 - ½” x 4 ½” x 49 ¼” - Roof Ridge Boards
Windows
4V: 2 - Window Inserts 18 1/4”w x 23”h
4W: 2 - Window Trim Kits
1 - Top pc - 24 1/16” Length - Angle Cut Ends
3 - Side/Bottom pcs - 23” Length
Miscellaneous
4X: 1 - 45 ¼” - Extra Piece of Bevel Wall Siding
- Use if side/rear wall panel siding is damaged or to shim floor or door.
4Y: 1 - 36” - Extra Piece of Lap Siding
- Use if front wall panel siding is damaged
Steps
61
62-63
56-60
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
S4 - 3” Screws
Y2 - 90° Metal
Bracket (Roof) x 8
x 246
x 28
x 156
x 305
S2 - 1 1/4” Screws
N1 - 1 1/2” Finishing Nails
BR1 - Square Drive Bit x 2
Y3 - Black Handle x 2
Y11 - Black Hasp x 1
x 20
SB1 - 3/4” Screws
Black Headed
Ladder
Screw Gun/Drill Tape Measure
Hammer
Level
Pliers
Tools Required (Not Provided)
1/8” Drill Bit
Safety Glasses Work Gloves
Safety Equipment Required
(Not Provided)
Wood Clamp
Utility Knife
12X4 Slider Storage Shed HARDWARE PACKAGE

Before starting your project become familiar with this assembly manual and determine if you can
complete the project yourself or will require a professional contractor. Please note that certain
counties and municipalities require building permits prior to installation. We recommend to all
consumers that they check with their local county/municipality for these specifics prior to purchasing
any of our products since this is your sole responsibility.
Prior to the product arriving, clear the construction area. Remove all debris; roots, grass, rocks, etc.
Make sure the ground slopes away from the site at least 10 feet in all directions. If necessary, build
up the soil in the center of the site and slope away for the high point to provide drainage. Fill in any
low spots within the perimeter of the site. A slope of 1/8 inch per foot is enough to prevent water
accumulation. We recommend excavating the site 4-6 inches deep and laying gravel or crushed
rock where drainage may be a concern.
What type of foundation should I use?
Patio Stone Foundation : If the ground is stable and has sufficient drainage, you can set patio
stones directly on firm compacted soil. If not, consider laying down sand and then gravel or crushed
rock. Excavate the site making it about 12” wider and longer than the floor footprint. Excavate down
approximately 4-6 inches deep. Lay 1-2 inches of sand first and then fill with 3-4 inches of gravel or
rock for good drainage and support. Most of our sheds and playhouses include floors with support
runners. Support each runner with 4-5 patio stones (less for smaller sheds). Patio stones can be
anything from a mid size brick to a round our square 12” long by 1 1/2” thick stone. Place stones
directly under the floor runners, check for level and adjust height as necessary. Having a solid and
level foundation is the most critical piece of work you can do to make the project go smoothly. Most
of this work can be done prior to your shed arriving!
4x4 Pressure Treated Beam Foundation : You can build directly on pressure-treated beams or
railroad ties laid on a properly prepared construction site as mentioned above. Run beams
perpendicular to floor runners. Use a 2x4 straight piece of lumber on edge and a carpenter's level
to position correctly. To prevent the beams from shifting, secure them with ½ inch rebar inserted
through holes drilled in the beams and driven 3 to 4 feet into the ground. Leave each side or end of
the foundation open to promote drainage and air circulation beneath the floor. Consider using a wire
mesh or equivalent to prevent pesky critters from gaining access on ends.
Concrete - Slab Foundation : Typically a slab 3-4 inches thick laid over a sub-base of 4 inches of
gravel or crushed rock is sufficient but may vary depending on your geographic location. Using
either mix your own concrete or having it delivered by truck, ready to pour, depends on how much
time and effort you have to dedicate to the project. In any event, make sure you excavate the slab
area to a depth 6 inches. This would put the finished slab surface approximately 2 inches above
ground (remember you will be using 4 inches of gravel as your subbase). For example, a slab for
our 8’x12’ SpaceMaker Shed will require approximately 1 cubic yard of premixed concrete.
For more detailed information on how to pour your concrete-slab foundation or any other questions
regarding specifications, foundations and permits, please visit our website at
www.outdoorlivingtoday.com or call our Customer Support Line at 1-888-658-1658 to speak with
a Product Representative.
* Please note that all measurements in our Detailed Assembly Manuals may be subject to change without notice. Please
confirm exact foundation size with Outdoor Living Today if you have any concerns or questions.
What Can I Do Before My Shed Arrives?
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Page 4

You can find BR1 - Square
Drive Bit for the screws in
with the Hardware Kit Bag.
1. Floor Section
Flush with
framing
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Page 5
Plywood Floor - 2pcs.
(Part 1D)
Floor Frames - 2pcs.
(Part 1A)
Floor Runners - 7pcs.
(Part 1C)
Concrete Pad
(optional foundation method)
Exploded view of all parts necessary to complete
Floor Section. Identify all parts prior to starting.
Note: Floor Footprint is 141 1/2” wide x 45 1/2” deep.
2. Lay out both complete floor joist frames as illustrated. The footprint for the
floor when attached together will be 141 1/2” wide x 45 1/2” deep. Attach
frames together with 6 - 2 1/2” Screws.
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws x 16 total
1. Lay out 1A - Floor Frame and two 1B - Floor Joists as illustrated
above. Position Joists so they are spaced equally in Floor Frame and
flush with framing. When correctly positioned, attach each Joist with
4 - 2 1/2” Screws (2 per end). You can find the Square Drive Screw
Bit in the Hardware Kit Bag. Complete remaining Floor Frame the
same.
Parts
1A - Floor Joist Frames
(45 1/2” x 70 3/4”) x 2
1B - Floor Joists
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 67 3/4”) x 4
Center Floor
Joists - 4pcs.
(Part 1B)
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 6 total
141 1/2”
45 1/2”

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Page 6
3. Position 1C - Floor Runners on completed floor frame so runners are
flush but not overhanging. Attach with 4 - 2 1/2” Screws per runner. There
are 7 floor runners in total.
Parts (Steps 3 - 4)
1C - Floor Runners
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 45 1/2”) x 7
Hardware (Steps 3 - 4)
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws x 28 total
4. Complete remaining floor runners as shown above. With Floor Runners attached, carefully flip the floor
over and place on your foundation. Caution - Be careful when laying floor down not to bend or twist floor.
Note: Having a level foundation is critical. Choosing a foundation will vary between regions. Typical
foundations can be concrete pads or patio stones positioned underneath the floor runners.
Concrete Slab
Foundation
5. Position 1D - Plywood Floor on top of completed floor frames.
Plywood will sit slightly inset from outside of floor frame.
Parts
1D - Plywood Floor
(5/8” x 45 3/8” x 70 5/8”) x 2
Note: Plywood is cut slightly
smaller than floor framing.
Keep plywood seams tight.

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Page 7
6. With Plywood positioned correctly on floor framing, attach with 1 1/4” Screws.
Use screws every 16” around perimeter of each floor section and 3 screws
through each mid joists.
Hardware
S2 - 1 1/4” Screws
x 40 total (approx.)
Advice: Use chalk line to
mark location of mid
joists for interior screws.
2. Wall Section Exploded view of all parts necessary to
complete the Wall Section. Identify all
parts prior to starting.
Angled Wall
Extenders - 2pcs.
(Part 2G)
Side/Rear Wall
Panels - 5pcs.
(Part 2A)
Bottom Wall Plates - 5pcs.
(Part 2B)
Front Wall Panels - 2pcs.
(Part 2C)
Horizontal Wall Cleats -
3pcs. (Parts 2I & 2J)
Wall Extenders -
3pcs. (Part 2H)
Door Headers - 3pcs.
(Parts 2D & 2E)
Top Triangular
Siding Piece - 2pcs.
(Part 2F)
Bottom Wall
Plates - 2pcs.
(Part 2BB)

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Page 8
Bottom Wall Plate
You can find BR1 -
Square Drive Bit for
the screws in with the
Hardware Kit Bag.
7. Carefully lay 2A - Side/Rear Wall Panels face
down. Position and attach 2B - Bottom Wall Plates
to bottom of wall studs of each wall panel with
3 - 2 1/2” Screws. Position so plates are flush with
framing. Complete 4 remaining solid walls.
Parts
2A - Side/Rear Wall Panels
(45 1/2” wide x 75” high) x 5
2B - Bottom Wall Plates
(1 5/8” x 2 1/2” x 45 1/2”) x 5
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 15 total
Ensure bottom plate
is flush side-to-side
with wall studs
Important: Make sure all walls are aligned in their
upright position. If not, water may leak into your shed.
Unsure if panel is facing up or down?
Recently attached Bottom Plate is on bottom of panel.
Outside 2x3 framing of wall panel should
be positioned flush with the outside of
floor framing when properly aligned.
9. The rear wall panels will sit even with the floor frame and the sidewall panels will be sandwiched
between the front and rear wall panels. The floor plywood may be slightly recessed.
Note: Siding will overhang the floor frame by approximately 3/4”.
8. Starting on one side, position a Solid Wall Panel on top of plywood floor. The Wall Panel bottom framing
will sit flush with the outside of the floor frame. Wall siding will overhang the floor.
Siding overhangs
floor frame by 3/4”
Floor plywood
may be slightly
recessed
Do Not Attach Walls
To Floor until Step 23.

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Page 9
Side Solid Wall
Rear Solid Wall
Be sure that the rear
wall panels fit
between the side wall
panels (sandwiched).
Optional - Caulking
seams will help prevent
moisture from entering
at seam. Caulking not
included in kit.
11. With the corner wall attachment complete, position a second rear wall panel in place so bottom
2x3 wall framing is sitting flush with outside floor joists. Wall siding should overhang floor by
approximately 3/4”. When positioned correctly, attach both side wall panel studs together as per Step 10.
10. Position rear solid wall into place on plywood floor. Butt both vertical wall
studs of side and rear walls together and attach with 3 - 2 1/2” Screws.
Screw at the bottom, middle and top of stud to secure properly.
Note: Drill pilot holes in studs to prevent splitting.
Hardware (Steps 10 - 12)
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 12 total
Pilot Hole
first.
Side Wall

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Page 10
Wall panel will
sit flush with
floor framing.
Do Not Attach Walls To
Floor Until Step 23
13. Carefully lay 2C - Front Wall Panels face down. Position and
attach 2BB - Bottom Wall Plates to bottom of wall studs of each wall
panel with 3 - 2 1/2” Screws as per Step 7. Complete other remaining
Front Wall.
Place Front Walls in front and attach with 3 - 2 1/2” Screws per panel
as per Steps 10 - 12.
12. Complete remaining side wall attachment as per Steps 10 - 11.
Front of Shed
Parts
2C - Front Wall Panels
(35” wide x 73” high) x 2
2BB - Bottom Wall Plates
(1 5/8” x 2 1/2” x 35”) x 2
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws x 12 total
Ensure bottom plate
is flush side-to-side
with wall studs

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Page 11
14. Position 2D - Door Header - Short on top
of wall stud so it is flush on the inside with 2x3
wall stud. Attach by screwing down into top wall
framing with 3 - 3” Screws.
Parts (Step 14 - 15)
2D - Door Headers - Short
(2” x 3 1/2” x 26 1/4”) x 2
2E - Door Header - Long
(2” x 3 1/2” x 84”) x 1
Hardware (Step 14 - 15)
S4 - 3” Screws
x 10 total
S2 - 1 1/4” Screws
x 2 total
Step to front
and top.
Align flush
outside with
wall siding.
15. Attach 2D - Door Header - Short to other side. Position and attach 2E - Door Header - Long
between short door headers. The Long Door Header has an aluminum strip attached to the back for added
support. Attach by screwing down into wall framing with 2 - 3” Screws per side. Fasten aluminum strip to
short headers with 1 - 1 1/4” Screw per side.
Aluminum strip on back
of Long Door Header
Door Header
overhangs
inside wall
framing by 1/2”

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Page 12
5 1/2”
5 1/2”
Top Siding Pc.
Top Siding Pc. for Angle Wall
can also be installed after Roof
is attached after Step 41.
Side Wall Panel
16. Position 2F - Top Triangular Siding Piece onto
2G - Angle Wall Extender and align as shown above. Attach with
3 - 1 1/2” Finishing Nails to top frame of extender wall. There are
left/right top siding pieces. Use rough surface side out. Place finished
wall extender on side wall panel frame. Complete both sides now.
Note: Bottom siding of wall extender will overhang and cover siding
of side wall.
Parts
2G - Angle Wall Extenders - L/R
(2G - 45 1/2” wide) x 2
2F - Top Triangular Siding Piece
(2F - Left/Right) x 2
Hardware
N1 - 1 1/2” Finishing Nails x 6 total
17. Align wall framing of Angled Wall Extendor and Side Wall so they are flush at the back. The siding for
both walls should also align evenly from front to back.
Wall framings
flush.
Siding
lines up.
Sidings will
overlap.
18. With Angled Wall Extendor and Side Wall aligned correctly, secure
together from the inside with 4 - 2 1/2” Screws.
Hardware (Steps 18 - 19)
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws x 8 total

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Page 13
20. Place 2H - Rear Extender Walls top framing
of rear wall with bottom siding overlapping that of
the rear wall.
Parts (Steps 20 - 21)
2H - Rear Extender Walls
(2H - 45 1/2” wide) x 3
Hardware (Steps 20 - 21)
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 12 total
Cleat protects
overhanging siding
on upper walls from
damage. Please
remove before
installing.
Overhanging
siding.
Protective
cleat
19. Complete opposite Angled Wall Extendor positioning and attachment as per Step 18.
21. With 2x3 wall framing aligned, attach extender walls to rear wall top plate with 4 - 2 1/2” Screws per
wall.
Pilot Hole
first.

22. Attach 2I & 2J - Horizontal Wall Cleats to Wall Extender bot-
tom framing and Rear Wall top framing so that cleat is flush with
extender framing. There are two short cleats and one long cleat.
Alternate alignment of screws, so half screw into Wall Extender
Framing and half into Rear Wall Top Framing. Use 3 - 1 1/4” Screws
per short cleat and 6 - 1 1/4” Screws on the long cleat.
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Page 14
Parts
2I - Horizontal Wall Cleat - Long
(3/4” x 3 1/2” x 84”) x 1
2J - Horizontal Wall Cleats - Short
(3/4” x 3 1/2” x 26 1/4”) x 2
Hardware
S2 - 1 1/4” Screws x 12 total
23. To complete Wall Section, attach bottom 2x3 wall plates to plywood floor with
2 - 2 1/2” Screws per wall section. Confirm Doorway opening is 66 1/2” wide. Prior to
securing, make sure wall panels are aligned correctly on the floor. Refer to Step 9. Wall
siding should overhang floor while 2x3 wall plates should sit flush with floor.
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 28 total
Bottom Wall
Optional - Caulking seams will help
prevent moisture from entering at
seam. Caulking not included in kit.
Pilot
Hole first.
Confirm Doorway opening is
66 1/2” wide at top and bottom.

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Page 15
3. Rafter and Roof Section
Exploded view of all parts necessary to complete the Rafter and Roof Section. Identify all parts
prior to starting.
Left Roof Panel
(Part 3G)
Right Roof
Panel (Part 3G)
Rear Soffits - L/R
- 2pcs (Part 3D)
Rafters - 9pcs
(Part 3A)
Filler Shingles -
8pcs. (Part 3I)
Facia Nailing Strips
- 2pcs (Part 3F)
Center Roof
Panel (Part 3H) Rear Soffit - Center
- 1pc (Part 3E)
Front Soffits - L/R
- 2pcs (Part 3B)
Front Soffit - Center
- 1pcs (Part 3C)

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Page 16
24. Locate 3A - Rafters, 3B & 3C - Front Soffits and
3D & 3E - Rear Soffits. Lay out on level ground and
assemble as shown above in Illustrations A through C
below. Attach Soffit Boards flush to end of outside
rafters. Attach Front Soffits with 2 - 2 1/2” Screws per
rafter end. Attach Rear Soffits with 2 - 1 1/4” Screws
per rafter end.
Important: Drill pilot holes in Soffit ends to prevent
splitting. Attach double rafters as illustrated above with
3 - 2 1/2” Screws per rafter/rafter connection.
3 1/2” wide
3” wide
3 1/2” wide
Front Soffits
21 3/4”
48” 45 1/2” 48”
3” wide Rear Soffits
20 1/2”21 3/4” 20 1/2” 21 3/4” 21 3/4”
Front
Rear
141 1/2”
Parts
3A - Rafters
(1 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 54”) x 9
3B - Front Soffits - Sides
(1” x 3 1/2” x 48”) x 2
3C - Front Soffit - Center
(1” x 3 1/2” x 45 1/2”) x 1
3D - Rear Soffits - Sides
(1/2” x 3” x 48”) x 2
3E - Rear Soffit - Center
(1/2” x 3” x 45 1/2”) x 1
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 24 total
S2 - 1 1/4” Screws
x 18 total
A. B.
Front Soffit
C.
Screw double
rafters together with
3 - 2 1/2” Screws.
Screw Front Soffits to
Rafters with 2 - 2 1/2”
Screws per rafter end.
Note: We recommend you drill a 1/8” pilot hole for each screw, to avoid
splitting wood. The hole depth should be equal to 3/4 the length of screw.
Rear Soffit
Front Soffit
Screw Rear Soffits to
Rafters with 2 - 1 1/4”
Screws per rafter end.

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Page 17
25. Carefully flip completed Rafter Section over so the 3 1/2” wide Soffit is facing the front and place onto
walls. Note: once again, make sure 3 1/2” wide Soffit is positioned to the front of the shed.
26. Position completed Rafter Section on top of walls. Outside Rafters will sit on Extension Wall framing
and be positioned equally from side to side.
3 1/2” Wide Soffit
to the front.
Rafter sits on framing
27. When Rafter Section is positioned correctly, both Front and Rear Soffits will sit approximately 1/8”
away from wall siding. This can vary slightly.

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Page 18
28. With Rafter Section correctly aligned, secure rafters to walls using
2 - 90° Metal Brackets per side. Attach each brackets with 4 - 1 1/4” Screws.
Screw into Wall Extension Framing at the rear and Wall Panel top framing at
the front. Complete both sides.
Hardware
Y2 - 90° Metal Bracket
x 4 total
S2 - 1 1/4” Screws
x 16 total
90° Metal Brackets
29. With outside rafters properly secured, attach remaining interior rafters using
1 - 2 1/2” Screw per rafter end. Screw into rafters from inside of Header on an angle
at front of shed, and from inside of Extender Wall Framing at rear of shed.
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 12 total
30. Carefully flip Roof Panels over so plywood sheathing is facing up.
Center 3F - Facia Nailing Strips onto outside of each panel flush with
plywood. Attach with 4 - 1 1/4” Screws evenly spaced. The Facia Nailing
Strip provides for a greater nailing surface later when you attach side facia.
Parts
3F - Facia Nailing Strips
(3/4” x 3/4” x 48”) x 2
Front - Shingle overhang
Inside - Shingles flush
Outside Side
Facia Nailing
Strip.
Outside - Shingle overhang
Hardware
S2 - 1 1/4” Screws
x 8 total

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31. Correctly orientate 3G - Side Roof Panel, with shingles overhanging
plywood on the side of the shed and flush with plywood toward the center of
the shed. Place on rafters with front of plywood just about flush with rafter
ends but just slightly recessed. Doing so allows front facia to sit better.
32. For correct Roof Panel position, align panel so plywood sits evenly on Center Rafters. Next, position
3H - Center Roof Panel onto center rafters.
Shingles overhang
plywood on outside.
Front of plywood
1/8” recessed
with rafter end.
Plywood flush
with shingles
on inside.
Parts (Steps 31 - 34)
3G - Left/Right Roof Panels
(51” x 56”) x 2
3H - Center Roof Panel
(45 1/2” x 56”) x 1
Roof Panel
centered on
rafter.
33. Align plywood of center roof panel so it is tight against the plywood of the side roof panel. Spacing
should be even front and back.

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Page 20
36. To cover roof seams, slide a 3L - Filler Shingle up and underneath second
shingle row. Push or bang filler carefully with a hammer until evenly spaced and
butt is even with other 1st row of shingles. Do first filler shingle on both seams.
Parts (Steps 36 - 39)
3L - Filler Shingles
(16” - 18” Long) x 8
34. Position other side roof panel onto rafters as per Steps 31 - 33.
35. With Roof Panels aligned, screw panels down to center rafters with
2 - 2 1/2” Screws in Bottom Row of Shingles Only (1 screw per panel).
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 4 total
Screw Bottom Row
of Shingles ONLY for
now. Screw on angle
away from shingle
edge to prevent it
from cracking.
Tip
Butt - thicker.
1st Shingle Row
2nd Shingle Row
Roof Seams.