ORION TELESCOPES & BINOCULARS SkyQuest IntelliScope XT6 User manual

Orion®SkyQuest™XT
Classic Dobsonians
XT6 #8944, XT8 #8945
IN 676 06/22
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
#8944 #8945
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Customer Support: [email protected]
Copyright © 2022 Orion Telescopes & Binoculars.All Rights Reserved. No part of this product instruction or any of its contents
may be reproduced, copied, modied or adapted, without the prior written consent of Orion Telescopes & Binoculars.
AN EMPLOYEE-OWNED COMPANY

2
Welcome to an exciting new world of adventure! Your SkyQuest XT Classic Dobsonian is a
high-quality optical instrument designed to bring you dazzling views of the outer reaches of our uni-
verse. Whether you are brand-new to amateur astronomy or a seasoned stargazer, get ready for many
evenings of enjoyment and fascination. Before venturing into the night with your new telescope, we rec-
ommend that you read through this instruction manual.
1. Unpacking
The telescope will arrive in two boxes, one containing the
optical tube assembly and accessories, the other containing
the unassembled Dobsonian base and hardware. Be careful
unpacking the boxes. We recommend keeping the original
shipping boxes and any internal materials. In the event that the
telescope needs to be shipped to another location, or returned
to Orion for warranty repair, having the proper shipping boxes
and protective materials inside will help ensure that your tele-
scope will survive the journey intact.
Make sure all the items in the Parts List below are present. Be
sure to check boxes carefully, as some parts are small. If any-
thing appears to be missing or broken, immediately call Orion
Customer Support (800-676-1343) for assistance.
Parts List
Part Description
A Front brace
B Left panel
B Right panel
C Top baseplate (round)
D Ground baseplate (triangle)
E Base assembly screw (x12)
F Large hex-head bolt with two washers and lock nut
G Phillips-head machine screw (x2)
H Spring post (x4)
I Bolt with rosette knob (x2)
J Spring coil (x2)
K Handle
L Hex nut (x2)
M Socket-head cap screw (x2)
N Washer (x2)
O Pull loops
P Hex key (6mm)
Q Hex key (4mm)
R 14mm Crescent wrench
S 17mm Crescent wrench (x2)
T 25mm Plössl eyepiece, 1.25"
U Red dot scope (with bracket)
V Dust cover
W Optical tube assembly
- Orion MoonMap 260 (not pictured)
- Orion DeepMap 600 (not pictured)
- Smartphone Photo Adapter (not pictured)
2. Assembly
Now that you have unpacked the boxes and familiarized your-
self with all the parts in front of you, it’s time to begin assembly.
The optics of the telescope are already installed in the tube, so
most of the required assembly concerns the Dobsonian base.
Assembly of the Dobsonian Base
Refer to Figure 1A and 1B during base assembly. The base
need only be assembled once, unless you disassemble it for
long-term storage. The assembly process takes about 30 min-
utes and requires a Phillips screwdriver, the included crescent
wrenches, and the included hex keys.
Note: When tightening the base assembly screws, tighten
them until rm, but be careful not to strip the holes by over-
tightening. If you use an electric screwdriver, do the nal tight-
ening with a standard screwdriver to avoid stripping.
1. Loosely attach the front brace (A) to the two side panels
(B) with six of the base assembly screws (E) in the
predrilled holes (Figure 2). Use the 4mm hex key (Q) to
tighten the screws. The side panels should be oriented
so the ange of the threaded insert is facing inward (see
Figure 2 inset). And the front panel should be oriented so
Table of Contents
1. Unpacking .......................... 2
2. Assembly ........................... 2
3. Using Your Telescope.................. 7
4. Astronomical Observing................10
5. Collimation of the Optics ...............11
6. Care and Maintenance.................14
6. Specications........................15
WARNING: Never look directly at the Sun with the
naked eye or with a telescope – unless you have
a proper solar lter installed over the front of the
telescope! Otherwise, permanent, irreversible eye
damage may result.

3
Figure 1. A) Main base components B) Parts of the SkyQuest XT Classic Dobsonian (XT8 pictured)
A
W
V
J
IH
G
FE
U
T
S
RQ
P
O
NMLK
D
C
B

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the felt pad at bottom is facing inward. Do not completely
tighten the screws yet.
2. Now turn the side panel assembly upside-down
and stand it up as shown in Figure 3. Attach the top
baseplate (C) to the assembly with the remaining six
base assembly screws in the predrilled holes. Tighten all
six screws.
3. Tighten the six side panel screws installed earlier.
4. Now you will attach the triangle-shaped ground baseplate
(D) to the top baseplate you just installed. First, lay the
base assembly on the oor as shown in Figure 4. Now
Insert the hex-head bolt (F) with a washer attached up
through the ground baseplate from the bottom (the side
with the feet). Then align the bolt with the center hole in
the top baseplate and insert the bolt through the hole.
Thread the remaining washer and lock nut onto the bolt.
You won’t be able to turn the lock nut very far with your
ngers – you just want to get it started.
5.
Figure 3. Invert the base assembly you’ve built so far and
attach the top baseplate using assembly wood screws and
the 4mm hex key.
Figure 4. Lay the base on the oor as shown and attach
the triangular groundplate to the top baseplate with the hex-
head bolt. Place a washer on the bolt before inserting the
bolt through the groundplate.
Figure 2. Attach the side panels to the front brace using six
of the provided assembly wood screws and the 4mm hex key.
INSET: Make sure the ange of the threaded insert on the
side panels is facing inward.
Flange
Washer
Hex-head
bolt

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Next, use the two provided 17mm crescent wrenches (S)
to lightly tighten the two baseplates together. Use one
crescent wrench on the bolt’s head (under the ground
plate) and one wrench on the lock nut, as shown in
Figure 5. Tighten the lock nut with the wrench just until
the white plastic pads on the triangular groundplate
contact the top baseplate. The groundplate should be
able to freely rotate; if the lock nut is too tight the rotation
becomes stiff or difficult. You may have to stand the base
upright on its feet and try rotating it to gauge whether it
rotates smoothly, without too much friction. If needed you
can lay the base on its side again and use the wrenches
to adjust the lock nut further.
6. Attach the handle (K) to the front brace with the two
socket-head cap screws (M). Insert the screws through
the handle and into the predrilled holes in the front panel
(Figure 6A). Place a washer (N) on the protruding end
of each screw, then thread on a hex nut (L) (Figure 6B).
Tighten the nut with the provided 14mm crescent wrench
(R) while holding the bolt stationary with the 6mm hex
key (P).
7. On each of the base’s side panels, install a plastic spring
post (H) as shown (Figure 7). Thread the Philips-head
screw (G) into the threaded metal insert in the hole and
tighten. Make sure the thick part of the post is closest to
the side panel, as shown.
8. Next, insert one of the long screws with a plastic knob
attached (I) through the end ring of one of the springs
(J). Slip a spring post onto the screw. Orient the spring
post so the narrow end is closest to the knob. Thread
the entire assembly into the hole in the center of the
telescope’s altitude side bearing until tight (Figure 8).
The end ring of the spring should seat onto the narrow
end of the spacer. Repeat this procedure for the other
altitude side bearing.
9. Attach a pull loop (O) to the free end of each spring. Slide
the loop through the opening in the ring on the end of the
spring.
Figure 6. Attach the handle to the front brace of the base
(A) with the two socket head cap screws, washers, and hex
nuts as shown in (B). Use the 14mm crescent wrench and
6mm hex key to tighten the nuts.
Figure 5. Once the bolt is inserted through the groundplate
and top baseplate, place the second washer on the bolt and
then thread on the lock nut. Use the two 17mm crescent
wrenches to lightly tighten the nut..
Washer
A
B

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10. Now lift the optical tube (W) and set the altitude bearings
on either side of the tube in the “cradles” of the side
panels (Figure 9).
11. Now, pull each spring down using the pull loop, and
position the spring’s end ring over the head of the Phillips
screw (installed in Step 8) and onto the narrow part of the
Figure 7. Attach one spring post on each side panel with
the included Phillips machine screw.
Figure 8. Slide a spring then a plastic spring post onto the
long bolts with the rosette knobs on them. Make sure the
narrow end of the spring post is closest to the rosette knob.
Then thread the bolt into the center of the altitude bearing on
the tube assembly.
Figure 9. Lift the tube assembly and place the side
bearings into the “cradle” at the top of the base’s side panels.
Figure 10. To attach the springs to the base, grip the pull
loop and pull down on the spring until you can place the
spring’s end ring over the screw head and onto the narrow
part of the spring post. Then release the pull loop.
Spring
post
Philips
screw
Spring post
Altitude side bearing

7
spring post, as shown in Figure 10. You needn’t attach
both springs simultaneously; one at a time is ne.
The telescope is now mounted on the base and the
CorrecTension spring system is engaged. If you wish to remove
the telescope from the base, you will rst need to unhook the
springs from the spring posts on the Dobsonian base. The
springs will remain captive on the altitude side bearings, so
they will not get lost
Installing the Red Dot Scope
To install the red dot scope (U) simply slide its dovetail mount-
ing bracket into the telescope’s dovetail base, then tighten
the thumbscrew on the base to secure the mounting bracket
(Figure 11).
Remove the plastic tab sticking out from the battery com-
partment and discard it. This allows the electronic circuit of
the red dot scope to receive power from the installed 3V battery.
Inserting an Eyepiece
The nal step in the assembly process is to insert an eyepiece
into the telescope’s focuser. Take the cover cap off the end of
the focuser drawtube. To insert the included 25mm 1.25" eye-
piece (T), loosen the thumbscrew on the 1.25" adapter itself
(it’s the thumbscrew closest to the eyepiece). Insert the eye-
piece into the adapter and secure it by tightening the thumb-
screw (Figure 12).
The assembly of your SkyQuest XT Classic Dobsonian is now
complete. The dust cover (V) on the front of the telescope
should always remain in place when the telescope is not in
use. It is also a good idea to store eyepieces in an eyepiece
case and to replace the cap on the focuser when the telescope
is idle.
3. Using Your Telescope
It is best to get a feel for the basic functions of the SkyQuest
XT Classic Dobsonian during the day, before observing astro-
nomical objects at night. This way you will not have to fum-
ble around trying to orient yourself in the dark! Find a spot
outdoors where you have plenty of room to move around the
telescope, and where you have a clear view of some object
or vista that is at least 1/4-mile away. It is not critical that the
base be exactly level, but it should be placed on somewhat
Figure 11. Slide the red dot scope’s bracket into the
dovetail base, then secure it with the thumbscrew.
Figure 12. The 2" Crayford focuser of the SkyQuest XT
Classic Dobsonian is shown with the 1.25" eyepiece installed.
Front of
telescope
Eyepiece
Focusing knobs
1.25" adapter
2" collar
Figure 13. The SkyQuest XT Classic has two axes of
motion: altitude (up/ down) and azimuth (left/right).
Azimuth
Altitude

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at ground or pavement to ensure smooth movement of the
telescope.
Remember, never point the telescope at or near the Sun
without using a proper solar lter over the front aperture!
Permanent eye damage could result.
Altitude and Azimuth Motions
The Dobsonian base of the SkyQuest XT Classic permits
motion of the telescope along two axes: altitude (up/down) and
azimuth (left/right) (Figure 13). Simply take hold of the top end
of the tube and move it left or right so the base rotates about
its central azimuth bolt, and move it up or down so the altitude
side bearings rotate in the base’s cradle. Both motions can be
made simultaneously and in a continuous manner for easy
aiming. Move the telescope gently—let it glide. In this way you
can point the telescope to any position in the night sky, from
horizon to horizon.
When you’re observing an astronomical object, it will drift
across the eyepiece’s eld of view over time due to the Earth’s
rotation. Before it drifts out of the eld of view, just grasp the
front of the telescope and give it a gentle pull or nudge to re-
center the object in the eyepiece.
Focusing the Telescope
SkyQuest XT Classic Dobsonians come equipped with a 2"
dual-speed Crayford focuser (Figure 12). The large 2" format
focuser allows use of 2" or 1.25" eyepieces and the Crayford
design prevents imaging shifting while focusing.
To insert a 1.25" eyepiece, rst remove the cap from the 1.25"
adapter. Loosen the thumbscrew on the 1.25" adapter, then
insert the eyepiece into the adapter and secure it by tightening
the thumbscrew.
To insert an optional 2" eyepiece, rst loosen the three thumb-
screws on the 2" accessory collar and remove the 1.25" adapt-
er from the collar. Then insert the 2" eyepiece barrel into the 2"
collar all the way. Retighten the three thumbscrews.
To focus, move the telescope so the front (open) end is point-
ing in the general direction of an object at least 1/4-mile away.
Now, with your ngers, slowly rotate one of the focusing knobs
(see Figure 12) until the object comes into sharp focus. Go a
little bit beyond sharp focus until the image just starts to blur
again, then reverse the rotation of the knob, just to make sure
you’ve hit the exact focus point.
If you have trouble focusing, rotate the focuser knob so the
drawtube is in as far as it will go. Now look through the eye-
piece while slowly rotating the focus knob in the opposite direc-
tion. You should soon see the point at which focus is reached.
On the underside of the focuser is a large thumbscrew. It can
be tightened to lock the drawtube once you’ve achieved focus,
if desired.This is not normally necessary, though, unless you’re
using an unusually heavy eyepiece with perhaps a Barlow lens
and their weight causes the drawtube to slip downward. The
locking thumbscrew could prevent any such slippage.
Note: The image in your Dobsonian reector will appear rotat-
ed, or upside down.This is normal for reector telescopes and
is why reectors are not recommended for daytime terrestrial
viewing.
Aligning and Using the Red Dot Finder Scope
The red dot nder scope (Figure 14) makes pointing your
telescope almost as easy as pointing your nger! It’s a non-
magnifying aiming device that superimposes a tiny LED red
dot on the sky, showing exactly where the telescope is pointed.
It permits easy object targeting prior to observation in the main
telescope.
Before you can use the red dot nder scope, you must remove
the plastic tab sticking out from the battery tray. Doing so will
allow the pre-installed 3V CR-2032 button cell battery to make
contact with the nder scope’s electronic circuitry to power the
nder’s red LED illuminator. The tab can then be discarded.
To use the red dot nder scope properly, it must be aligned
with the main telescope. This is easiest to do during daylight
hours, before observing at night. Follow this procedure:
Aligning the Red Dot Finder Scope
1. Center a target that’s at least ¼ mile away in the main
telescope’s eyepiece. It could be a house chimney or
the top of a distant telephone pole, for example. Now
turn on the red dot nder scope by rotating the power
knob so that it clicks ON (refer to Figure 14). The dot
increases in brightness as you rotate the knob. Typically
a dimmer setting is used under dark skies and a brighter
setting is used under light-polluted skies or in daylight.
Position your eye at a comfortable distance from the rear
of the red dot scope. Look through the rear of the nder
scope with both eyes open to see the illuminated red
dot. The target object should appear in the eld of view
somewhere near the red dot.
2. You’ll want to center the target object on the red dot.
To do so, without moving the telescope, use the nder
Figure 14. The red dot scope superimposes an adjustable-
brightness red dot on the sky that shows exactly where the
telescope is pointed.
Power
knob
Battery
tray
Window
Vertical
adjustment
knob
Horizontal
adjustment knob
LED

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scope’s vertical and horizontal adjustment knobs (shown
in Figure 14) to position the red dot on the object.
3. When the red dot is centered on the distant object, check
to make sure the object is still centered in the telescope’s
eyepiece. If it isn’t, re-center it then adjust the nder
scope’s alignment again. When the object is centered in
the telescope eyepiece and on the nder scope’s red dot,
the nder scope is properly aligned with the telescope.
The red dot nder scope’s alignment should be checked
before every observing session.
At the end of your observing session, be sure to turn the power
knob on red dot nder scope OFF (hear the click) to preserve
battery life.
Once aligned, the red dot scope will usually hold its alignment
even after being removed and reattached. Otherwise, only min-
imal realignment will be needed.
Replacing the Battery
Should the red dot nder scope’s battery ever die, replacement
3-volt CR2032 lithium batteries are available from many retail
outlets. Push the battery tray out with your ngertip from the
side labeled “PUSH”, then pull it the rest of the way out from
the other side. Remove the old battery and replace it with a
fresh one, positive (+) side facing up. Then slide the battery
tray back in by pushing the side of the tray labeled “BATTERY”
into the slot.
Aiming/Pointing the Telescope
Now that the red dot nder scope is aligned, the telescope
can be quickly and accurately pointed at anything you wish
to observe. It has a much wider eld of view than the tele-
scope’s eyepiece, and therefore it is much easier to rst center
an object in the red dot nder scope. Then the object will also
be centered in the telescope’s eld of view.
Start by once again moving the telescope until it is pointed
in the general direction of the object you want to see. Some
observers nd it convenient to sight along the tube to do this.
Now, look in the red dot scope. If your general aim is accurate,
the object should appear somewhere in the red dot scope’s
eld of view. Make small adjustments to the telescope’s posi-
tion until the object is centered on the red dot. Now, look in the
telescope’s eyepiece and enjoy the view!
Determining Magnification
Magnication, or power, is determined by the focal length of
the telescope and the focal length of the eyepiece. By using
eyepieces of different focal lengths, the resultant magnication
can be varied.
Magnication is calculated as follows:
Telescope Focal Length (mm) = Magnication
Eyepiece Focal Length (mm)
To calculate the magnication of the XT8 Classic Dobsonian
with the supplied 25mm eyepiece, divide the focal length of
1219mm by 25mm:
1219mm
= 48.8 ~ 49x
25mm
Other 1.25" telescope eyepieces of different focal lengths can be
purchased to achieve higher or lower powers. It is quite common
for an observer to own ve or more eyepieces to access a wide
range of magnications.
Once you’ve centered the object in the eyepiece, you can switch
to higher magnication (using an optional shorter focal length
eyepiece), if you wish. This is especially recommended for small
and bright objects, like planets and double stars. The Moon also
takes higher magnications well.
Deep-sky objects, however, typically look better at medium or
low magnications. This is because many of them are quite faint,
yet have some extent (apparent width). Deep-sky objects will
often disappear at higher magnications, since greater magni-
cation inherently yields dimmer images. This is not the case for
all deep-sky objects, however. Many galaxies are quite small, yet
are somewhat bright, so higher power may show more detail.
The best rule of thumb with eyepiece selection is to start with a
low power, wide eld, and then work your way up in magnica-
tion. If the object looks better, try an even higher magnication. If
the object looks worse, then back off the magnication a little by
using a lower-power eyepiece.
Magnication Limits
Every telescope has a theoretical magnication limit of about
2x per millimeter of aperture. This comes to 410x for the
SkyQuest XT8 Classic and 304x for the SkyQuest XT6 Classic.
But maximum magnifications are achieved only under the
most ideal viewing conditions at the best observing sites. Most
of the time, the highest practical magnication will be 200x or
less, regardless of aperture. This is because the Earth’s atmo-
sphere distorts light as it passes through. On nights of good
“seeing,” the atmosphere will be still and will yield the least
amount of distortion. On nights of poor seeing, the atmosphere
will be turbulent, which means different densities of air are rap-
idly mixing. This causes signicant distortion of the incoming
light, which prevents sharp views at high magnications.
Some telescope manufacturers will use misleading claims of
excess magnication, such as “See distant galaxies at 640X!”
While such magnications are technically possible, the actual
image at that magnication would be an indistinct blur. Low
and moderate magnications are typically what give the best
views. A small, but bright and detailed image is always better
than a dim, unclear, over-magnied one.
Tube Balance
Dobsonians are designed to balance with standard supplied
accessories, such as an eyepiece and red dot nder scope.
But what if you want to use a larger nder scope or a heavier
eyepiece? The telescope will no longer be properly balanced,
and will not hold its position properly. This makes the telescope
difficult to use, since it is critical that it hold its position (when
not purposefully moved) to keep objects centered in the eld
of vision.
Traditional Dobsonian designs expect the user to compen-
sate for heavier accessories by adding weight to the opposite
end of the telescope tube. Such counterweighting systems
can be expensive and unwieldy. The CorrecTension Friction
Optimization system of the SkyQuest XT Classic Dobsonians,

10
however, solves the nicky balance problem. The spring coils
pull the tube down onto the base, thereby increasing the fric-
tion on the altitude bearing pads. With CorrecTension, the
added weight of small front-end loads will not adversely affect
the balance of the telescope.
If you install an array of heavier accessories onto your
SkyQuest’s optical tube, you may need at some point to coun-
terbalance the telescope with a counterweight system.
Carrying the Telescope
Because the springs of the CorrecTension system hold the opti-
cal tube captive on the base, the entire telescope can be car-
ried as one unit. This requires some caution, however. If the tele-
scope is lifted improperly, the front of the tube could swing down
and hit the ground.
First, point the optical tube straight up (vertical). Grasp the han-
dle on the front of the base with one hand while supporting the
telescope tube vertically with the other. Now, lift the telescope
from the handle. Once the telescope is in the horizontal position,
you can carry the entire unit with one hand.
If you wish to carry the optical tube and base separately, simply
disengage the CorrecTension springs by unhooking them from
the posts on the base, using the pull loops. The springs remain
captive on the telescope side bearings. Now the base and tube
are disengaged and can be transported separately.
Note:The SkyQuest XT Classic may be too heavy for some
users to lift and carry as one unit. Do not strain yourself! If
the load seems too heavy, disengage the springs and carry
the base and tube separately.
When putting the telescope into a vehicle, common sense pre-
vails. It is especially important that the optical tube does not
knock around; this can cause the optics to become misaligned,
and could dent the tube. We recommend transporting and stor-
ing the tube assembly in a padded case for proper protection.
4. Astronomical Observing
For many, this will be your rst foray into the exciting world of
amateur astronomy. The following information and observing
tips will help get you started.
Choosing an Observing Site
When selecting a location for observing, get as far away as
possible from direct articial light such as street lights, porch
lights, and automobile headlights. The glare from these lights
will greatly impair your dark-adapted night vision. Set up on
a grass or dirt surface, not asphalt, because asphalt radiates
more heat. Heat disturbs the surrounding air and degrades the
images seen through the telescope. Avoid viewing over roof-
tops and chimneys, as they often have warm air currents rising
from them. Similarly, avoid observing from indoors through an
open (or closed) window, because the temperature difference
between the indoor and outdoor air will cause image blurring
and distortion.
If at all possible, escape the light-polluted city sky and head for
darker country skies.You’ll be amazed at how many more stars
and deep-sky objects are visible in a dark sky!
“Seeing” and Transparency
Atmospheric conditions vary signicantly from night to night.
“Seeing” refers to the steadiness of the Earth’s atmosphere at a
given time. In conditions of poor seeing, atmospheric turbu-
lence causes objects viewed through the telescope to “boil.”
If you look up at the sky and stars are twinkling noticeably,
the seeing is poor and you will be limited to viewing at lower
magnications. At higher magnications, images will not focus
clearly. Fine details on the planets and Moon will likely not be
visible.
In conditions of good seeing, star twinkling is minimal and
images appear steady in the eyepiece. Seeing is best over-
head, worst at the horizon. Also, seeing generally gets better
after midnight, when much of the heat absorbed by the Earth
during the day has radiated off into space.
Especially important for observing faint objects is good
“transparency”—air free of moisture, smoke, and dust. All
tend to scatter light, which reduces an object’s brightness.
Transparency is judged by the magnitude of the faintest stars
you can see with the unaided eye (5th or 6th magnitude is
desirable).
Cooling the Telescope
All optical instruments need time to reach “thermal equilibri-
um.” The bigger the instrument and the larger the temperature
change, the more time is needed. Allow at least 30 minutes for
your telescope to acclimate to the temperature outdoors before
you start observing with it.
Let Your Eyes Dark-Adapt
Don’t expect to go from a lighted house into the darkness of
the outdoors at night and immediately see faint nebulas, galax-
ies, and star clusters—or even very many stars, for that matter.
Your eyes take about 30 minutes to reach perhaps 80% of their
full dark-adapted sensitivity. As your eyes become dark-adapt-
ed, more stars will glimmer into view and you’ll be able to see
fainter details in objects you view in your telescope.
To see what you’re doing in the darkness, use a red-ltered
ashlight rather than a white light. Red light does not spoil your
eyes’ dark adaptation like white light does. A ashlight with a
red LED light is ideal. Beware, too, that nearby porch, street-
lights, and car headlights will ruin your night vision.
What to Expect
So what will you see with your telescope? You should be able
to see bands on Jupiter, the rings of Saturn, craters on the
Moon, the waxing and waning of Venus, and many bright
deep-sky objects. Do not expect to see color as you do in
NASA photos, since those are taken with long-exposure cam-
eras and have “false color” added. Our eyes are not sensitive
enough to see color in deep-sky objects except in a few of the
brightest ones. But as you become more experienced and your
observing skills get sharper, you will be able to ferret out more
and more subtle details and structure.
Objects to Observe
Now that you are all set up and ready to go, what is there to
look at in the night sky?
A. The Moon