
8
center an object in the eyepiece for viewing. Tension on both 
axes is set at the factory, but if you feel some further tweaking 
is warranted, read on.
Tension in the altitude axis is adjusted by turning the large 
tension adjustment knob (Figure 3) to be tighter or looser. 
To adjust the tension of the azimuth axis you will rst need 
to remove the photo tripod adapter (Figure 6). Simply loosen 
and remove the three Phillips-head screws on the adapter, 
and it will lift right off. Then you must use two 13mm or adjust-
able wrenches (not included), one on each nut, as shown 
in Figure 11, to tighten or loosen them as needed to adjust 
the amount of friction. Once you have made the necessary 
adjustments, reinstall the adapter with the three Phillips-head 
screws. 
Focusing the Telescope 
The TableTop telescopes both come equipped with an adjust-
able focuser designed to keep images sharp.The SkyScanner 
100 Reector has a 1.25” rack-and-pinion focuser with two 
large manual focusing knobs (Figure 5A). The StarMax 90 
Mak-Cass has a single focus knob on the back end of the 
tube assembly (Figure 5B). 
We recommend practicing focusing in the daytime when start-
ing out to get the hang of it. With the 20mm eyepiece insert-
ed into the focuser, aim the optical tube so the front (open) 
end is pointing in the general direction of an object at least 
1/4-mile away. With your ngers, slowly rotate the focus knob 
until the object comes into sharp focus. Go a little bit beyond 
sharp focus until the image starts to blur again, then reverse 
the rotation of the knob gradually, until you’ve nailed the exact 
focus point.
IV. Using Your Telescope
Choosing an Observing Site 
When selecting a location for observing, get as far away as 
possible from direct articial light such as street lights, porch 
lights, and automobile headlights. The glare from these lights 
will greatly impair your dark-adapted night vision. Avoid view-
ing over rooftops and chimneys, as they often have warm air 
currents rising from them. Similarly, avoid observing from 
indoors through an open (or closed) window, because the 
temperature difference between the indoor and outdoor air 
will cause image blurring and distortion. 
If at all possible, escape the light-polluted city sky and head 
for darker country skies. You’ll be amazed at how many more 
stars and deep-sky objects are visible in a dark sky! 
Cooling the Telescope 
All optical instruments need time to reach “thermal equilibri-
um.” The bigger the instrument and the larger the temperature 
change, the more time is needed. Allow at least 20 minutes 
for your telescope to acclimate to the temperature outdoors 
before you start observing with it. 
Let Your Eyes Dark-Adapt 
Don’t expect to go from a lighted house into the darkness of 
the outdoors at night and immediately see faint nebulas, gal-
axies, and star clusters—or even very many stars, for that mat-
ter. Your eyes take about 30 minutes to reach perhaps 80% of 
their full dark-adapted sensitivity. As your eyes become dark-
adapted, more stars will glimmer into view and you’ll be able 
to see fainter details in objects you view in your telescope. 
To see what you’re doing in the darkness, use a red-ltered 
ashlight rather than a white light. Red light does not spoil 
your eyes’ dark adaptation like white light does. A ashlight 
with a red LED light is ideal. Beware, too, that nearby porch 
lights, street lights, and car headlights will ruin your night 
vision. 
“Seeing” and Transparency 
Atmospheric conditions vary signicantly from night to night. 
“Seeing” refers to the steadiness of the Earth’s atmosphere at 
a given time. In conditions of poor seeing, atmospheric turbu-
lence causes objects viewed through the telescope to “boil.” 
If you look up at the sky and stars are twinkling noticeably, 
the seeing is poor and you will be limited to viewing at lower 
magnications. At higher magnications, images will not focus 
clearly. Fine details on the planets and Moon will likely not be 
visible. 
In conditions of good seeing, star twinkling is minimal and 
images appear steady in the eyepiece. Seeing is best over-
head, worst at the horizon. Also, seeing generally gets better 
after midnight, when much of the heat absorbed by the Earth 
during the day has radiated off into space. 
Especially important for observing faint objects is good 
“transparency” – air free of moisture, smoke, and dust. All 
tend to scatter light, which reduces an object’s brightness. 
Transparency is judged by the magnitude of the faintest stars 
you can see with the unaided eye (6th magnitude or fainter is 
desirable). If you cannot see stars of magnitude 3.5 or dim-
mer then conditions are poor. Magnitude is a measure of how 
bright a star is – the brighter a star is, the lower its magnitude 
will be. A good star to remember for this is Megrez (mag. 3.4), 
which is the star in the “Big Dipper” connecting the handle 
to the “dipper”. If you cannot see Megrez, then you have fog, 
haze, clouds, smog, or other conditions that are hindering 
your viewing. (See Figure 12.)
Tracking Celestial Objects 
The Earth is constantly rotating about its polar axis, complet-
ing one full rotation every 24 hours; this is what denes a “day”. 
We do not feel the Earth rotating, but we see it at night from 
the apparent movement of stars from east to west. When you 
observe any astronomical object, you are watching a moving 
target. This means the telescope’s position must be continu-
ously adjusted over time to keep a celestial object in the eld 
of view. This is called “tracking” the object. It’s easy to do with 
the TableTop telescopes because of their smooth motions on 
both axes. As the object moves off towards the edge of the 
eyepiece’s eld of view, just lightly nudge or tug the telescope 
to re-center the object. Objects appear to move across the