PACESHIP CRUISING YACHT User manual

PACESHIP
CRUISING YACHT
MAINTENANCE
MANUAL

FOREWORD
TO THE OWNER
It is hoped that this booklet will in some small way help the boat owner get more use and enjoyment from
his purchase.
The material was gathered from many sources including much of my own experience. I have tried to
present those subjects, which will most interest the average boat owner. This information has been
presented in a form which should be easily understood. Much of the technical terminology has been
omitted for clarity,
We believe that PACESHIP builds a fine product, however, we also realize that it is possible to have
minor problems from time to time. Many times I have found problems have occurred because owners
have not used the boat properly or have misinformation concerning some aspect of it. The information
contained here should help to overcome some of these potential difficulties.
Best wishes for fair winds and pleasant sailing!
Don Barr
Plant Manager
September 20,1970
Page 1

For those who are new to sailing and fiberglass boats, the following list of terms may be helpful in understanding the
instructions included in this booklet.
BACKSTAY - Wire slanting sharply aft from the mast for the purpose of supporting the mast.
BAIL. A ‘U’ shaped fitting attached to the boom to hold the mainsheet block.
BALLAST - Iron or lead placed low inside a boat to increase stability by lowering the center of gravity. Lead or iron
keels are termed outside ballast to distinguish from inside ballast.
BATTEN - Thin wooden strips used to hold the leech of a sail and prevent curling.
BLOCK- A nautical form of pulley with one or more rollers (sheaves).
BOOM. A spar at the foot of a fore and aft sail.
CAM CLEAT - A locking or jamming cleat usually incorporating a law or moving parts in order to hold a sheet. It is
normally used where quick ‘releases are required.
CAR- A nautical term for a traveller carriage or genoa slide.
CENTERBOARD - A moveable, pivoted devise of wood, fiberglass or metal used in place of a keel to give stability,
permit sailing in more shallow waters than keel craft, and prevent sliding away from wind (leeway). When raised, it is
housed in a centerboard trunk. The dagger-board, a sliding form of centerboard which has n
o pivot, may only be
lowered or lifted vertically.
CHAIN PLATES - Metal plates bolted or bonded to the side of a hull or deck to which stays are attached to support
rigging.
CHOCK - A metal casting, usually at the bow, through which mooring and securing lines or ropes are led.
CHUTE - Slang for spinnaker.
CLAW - A fitting on a roller reefing boom to which the vang attaches. The boom rolls inside the claw when reefing.
CLEAT- A piece of wood or metal with two horns around, which ropes are made fast,
CLEW. The lower aft corner of a fore-and-aft or triangular sail.
COAMING - A raised protection around the cockpit of a small boat,
CUNNINGHAM HOLE - A hole or holes placed in the luff of a mainsail at a predetermined distance up from the boom,
The cunningham hole is used to stretch the luff of the mainsail down in order to flatten a sail.
DOWNHAUL - A rope or tackle by which a sail is pulled downward, usually to improve its shape.
FAIRLEAD - An eye or fitting which changes the direction of a sheet or rope led through it.
GENOA - A large, overlapping jib.
Page 2

GOOSENECK. A metal fitting, normally a universal Joint securing boom to mast.
GUDGEON - An eye fitting to hold pintles of a rudder.
HALYARD - Rope or wire used to raise sails.
HEAD . Upper corner of sail.
HEADSTAY - Usually the forward stay, sometimes called forestay.
HELM - The tiller or wheel used to steer a boat.
HIKE-To climb or lean out to windward to countered excessive heeling.
HIKING STRAPS. Straps which run fore and aft in a daysailer to confine the toes of a person hiking
outboard.
JIB - A triangular sail set forward of the mast.
LUFF - The forward edge of a fore and aft sail.
MAINSAIL - The triangular fore and aft sail set on the aft side of the main mast.
MAINSHE ET - The rope by which a boom or sail is pulled in or slacked off, usually through a system of
blocks.
MAST - A vertical spar supporting sails and rigging.
MIZZEN-A small aft mast on a yawl or ketch.
OUTHAUL A line used to secure the clew of a sail.
PINTLE - A metal pin like fitting allowing a rudder to swing.
RAIL - The outer edge of the deck.
RAKE - The inclination of a m3st from the vertical.
RIGGING . The wires and ropes of a boat running sets or trims the sails, Standing rigging is permanently
secured rigging.
ROLLER REEFING - A device for rolling the mainsail onto the boom, in order to shorten the sail.
SHEAVE - A wheel in a block.
SHROUDS - Wires supporting the mast.
SPREADER. A horizontal strut to which shrouds or stays are attached, to support the mast and spread
the rigging.
SWAGE - A means of attaching terminals to wire rigging.
TOPPING LIFT - A line running from the backstay to support the boom when the boat is moored.
Page 3

TURNBUCKLE - A threaded link which pulls two eyes together for setting up standing rigging.
VANG - A wire or rope used to steady the boom (Boom vang).
WHISKER POLE- A light pole or stick used to pole out a jib to windward to permit sailing wing to wing on a run,
when spinnaker is not set.
WINCH - A drum shaped mechanical device similar to a windlass to increase hauling power on sheets and halyards.
WORKING SAILS - The ordinary fore and aft sails, such as jib and mainsail. FIBERGLASS TERMINOLOGY:
CATALYST - A substance that initiates a chemical reaction and enables it to proceed under milder conditions than
otherwise possible.
EPOXY - A molecular containing oxygen attached to two different atoms already united in some other way.
EPOXY RESIN- A flexible, usually thermosetting, resin made by polymerization of an epoxide and used chiefly in
coatings and adhesives.
ESTER - A compound formed by the reaction between an acid and an alcohol or phenol with the elimination of
water.
POLYESTER - A complex ester formed by polmerization or condensation.
POLYMERIZATION . A chemical reaction in which two or more small molecules combine to form large molecules.
RESINS - Any of various solid or semi-solid amorphous fusible flammable natural organic substances that are
usually transparent or translucent and yellowish to brown in color, are formed especially in plant secretions, are
soluble in ether and other organic solvents but not in water and are electrical non-conductors.
INHIBITOR. A substance that slows down a chemical reaction.
M.E.K. - Methyl ethyl ketone peroxides. A catalyst used to cure gelcoat and some resins.
GELCOAT - A special resin containing a color pigment- This is the material used on the exterior of fiberglass to give
it the color.
MAT - Fiberglass mat comes in various weights such as 1.5 oz., 2 oz. etc. This refers to the weight per square foot.
Mat is made up of short strands of chopped glass pressed into a mat form.
ROVINGS -These comes in various weights; such as 18 oz. and 24 oz. This refers to the weight per square yard.
Rovings are made from continuous strands of glass woven together in a blanket form
MONOMER - This is generally styrene or vinyl toluene and is used to vary the viscosity of the resin,
Page 4

ENGINE PRE-SEASON PREPARATION
It is suggested you follow the engine manual supplied with your boat. However, if you don’t have a
manual, the following general instructions will be helpful.
The power train should be checked and tuned up at the start of each boating season. Those who take the
time and trouble to do this will have few problems.
(1) The engine should be completely lubricated, such items as; throttle, shift chock cables and linkage.
(2) Remove, clean and inspect the spark plugs. Replace defective plugs. Gap plugs and install.
(3) Check ignition system, points, coil, condenser etc., and also check ignition timing and set points.
(4) Check gasoline tank and all fuel lines. Check flexible tank filler hose or fuel lines for deterioration.
Turn on gas supply valve. If tank was not drained during storage, inspect for gum formation which may
clog lines and filters.
(5) Check crankcase oil level. Oil should have been changed prior to storage. If not, follow outline in off
season storage.
(6) Clean and inspect flame arrester.
(7) Check and adjust generator or alternator drive belt.
(8) Close all water drains. Check all water hoses and replace if necessary. Check cooling system
seacocks and thru hull fittings.
(9) Check battery (s) for full charge and clean terminals. Clean and inspect battery cables. Check for
correct polarity before installing battery cables.
(10) Check all electrical wiring.
(11) Test run engine. Check all gauges for normal readings. Check exhaust outlet for water discharge.
Check for fuel, oil and water leaks.
INBOARD DRIVE
(1) Check transmission or reverse gear for correct amount of lubricant (not necessary for Atomic Four).
(2) Check propeller shaft and engine alignment.
(3) Check propeller shaft stuffing box.
Page 5

SUGGESTIONS FOR OPERATING INBOARD ENGINE
1. Ventilate engine compartment by opening hatches and starting blower fan.
2. Check fuel supply and make sure fuel lines are tight. Any fuel seepage or leaks
should be corrected before you attempt to start the engine.
3. Check all electrical connections.
4. Do not allow flame or sparks near battery openings. Gases produced during
normal charging are explosive.
5. Make sure water pump is lubricated with water pump grease.
STARTING YOUR ENGINE
1. Clutch lever should be in neutral.
2. Fill fuel pump bowl using hand primer on fuel pump (after cleaning or first use).
3. Place throttle at ¼ open position.
4. Pull out choke.
5. Turn on ignition switch and start engine.
6. Run engine at idle speed 600 to l000 RPM.
7. As soon as engine starts, gradually push choke in all the way.
8. Check oil pressure 50 p.s.i. when cold. Check oil after about 10 minutes running.
Add oil to bring to full mark.
9. Check cooling system and make sure water pump is operating by checking water
out of exhaust pipe. Temperature indicated on gauge should gradually go up to 140 to
160.
10.If oil pressure or water flow is not normal, stop engine at once and check for
problem.
11.When shifting into forward or reverse position, the engine should be running at 600
to 1000 RPM.
12.After the break-in period, a good cruising speed for sailboat installations is about
2000 RPM or about 80 percent of the maximum engine speed obtainable.
SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR BOATS EQUIPPED WITH FOLDING PROPELLERS
1. Damage to the drive line and engine can occur if propeller is operated with one
blade partially open. This will cause severe vibration.
2. Engine speed should be raised to about 1000 RPM and the shift lever briskly moved
into forward or reverse. The centrifugal force should open the blades completely.
3. When docking same, time allowance must be made to allow for blade opening or
the possibility of not opening the first time.
4. Frequent checks of shaft log leakage or misalignment should be made for boats
equipped with this option.
Page 6

ENGINE OFF-SEASON STORAGE
(1) Before taking boat out of water, run engine sufficiently to bring up to normal operating temperature.
(2) Drain crankcase completely. Refill with prescribed amount of oil recommended by manufacturer.
Start engine and operate a few minutes at high idle. Stop engine and check oil level. Some oil will remain
in the engine resulting in a slightly low reading on the dip stick. If the oil is excessively low, add only
enough to bring reading into the safe range above the add oil mark.
(3) Shut off the gasoline supply at the tank. Disconnect the fuel line between the valve and pump. Drain
the fuel line from the valve. Insert end of the fuel line connected to the fuel pump into a can of several
ounces of fuel mixed with rust preventive oil. Start and run the engine at fast idle until engine stalls from
lack of fuel.
(4) Remove spark plugs and inject an ounce of rust preventive oil into each cylinder. With spark plugs
removed, crank engine for about 15 seconds with starter to assure a good coating on cylinder walls.
Remove excess oil from around spark plug holes and install spark plugs.
NOTE ALTERNATE TO STEPS 3 & 4:
Shut off fuel at tank, remove flame arrestor from carburetor and slowly pour one pint of rust preventive oil
into carburetor air intake while running the engine at fast idle and using up the fuel remaining in the
carburetor, fuel pump and lines.
(5) Clean sediment bowl.
(6) Engines used in salt water. Remove boat from water. Flush cooling system with fresh water, allowing
water to circulate for 5 minutes.
(7) Remove drain plugs from engine. Allow to drain completely leaving plugs out.
(8) Lubricate control linkage.
(9) Seal carburetor and exhaust system openings to prevent dust and water from entering engine.
(10) Remove battery from boat and keep it charged during storage.
Page 7

CARE AND CLEANING OF SAILS
OIL-DIRT-MILDEW: Store sails dry. Wash in warm water with soap or detergent but not biological
washing powders.
MILDEW: Scrub Iightly with a stiff brush. Then soak for two hours in a cold, diluted solution of bleach (1
part Domestos to 10 parts water). Wash thoroughly in water and repeat. if necessary.
OIL-GREASE AND WAX: Small stains clean with Trichloroethylene. Heavy stains use polyclene and
wash out with soap and water. Use a well ventilated area. These cleaners will remove oils, grease.
petroleum jelly but not metallic particles (rust).
METALLIC STAINS: a) Immerse the stained portion in a 5 percent solution of Oxalic Acid dissolved In hot
water (1 oz. of OxaIic acid dissolved in each pint of hot water). The hands and the fabrics should be
thoroughly washed after using Oxalic acid solution. This chemical is very poisonous.
b) Immerse the stained portion in a warm solution containing two parts of concentrated hydrochloric
acid per 100 parts of water. Wash thoroughly with water.
LIGHTNING PROTECTION
For owners Interested in protecting their boats from lightning strikes, they should obtain a copy of the
National Fire Protection Association’s No. 302 Standard.
Briefly, the following guide may be helpful to the owner to appraise whether or not he will go ahead.
NON-METALLIC BOATS
A bonding system consists of a heavy conductor either insulated or non-insulated, no smaller than No. 6
AWG wire or equivalent. It should be installed in the fore or aft direction away from bilge water and as
close to the common ground point as possible. The bonding system should be independent of the boat’s
electrical system, except for connection at the common ground point. Splices in the bonding conductor
should be minimized and either brazed or soldered.
Jumpers from the bonding conductor to individual items should be kept as short as possible and no
smaller than 8 AWG wire. Jumpers should be soldered or brazed to the bonding conductor. Exposed
metallic parts of the following items should be connected to the bonding system:
1. Engine
2. Metal enclosures of all electrical equipment including:
(a) Motor and generator frames
(b) Cabinet & control boxes
(c) Radio and electronic equipment
3. Fuel tanks, deck fittings
4. Metal water tanks and tank opening fittings.
5. Metal thru-huII fittings.
Page 8

THE CARE and MAINTENANCE OF STAINLESS STEEL
Though the corrosion resistance of stainless steel contributes greatly to the carefree life of the boatman,
the metal can provide even better results with reasonable use and care.
Maximum corrosion resistance starts with clean surfaces, and usually stainless steel marine equipment
can be kept clean simply by washing it down on a regular basis. In addition, it should be cleaned
occasionally with ordinary soap and water. To speed cleaning, action soda ash, borax or any of several
non-abrasive commercial cleaning agents can be added to the water. Stubborn stains, which from time to
time, can appear on stainless steel can be removed with a paste made with water and ammonia and
either magnesium oxide, finely powered prlmlce or French chalk. With this solution, it is important to rub in
the direction of the polishing marks on the stainless, using a soft cloth. Stainless steel wool of the finest
possible texture is sometimes used to remove extremely resistant deposits.
Although stainless steel is easy to keep clean, you should take care in the selection of the proper
cleaning agent for the job. For example, certain cleaning agents should ‘NOT’ be used, such as, steel
wool scouring pads, scrapers and wire brushes. These cleaning tools can leave minute particles of iron
imbedded in the stainless steel surface. These particles can corrode and mar the appearance of the
metal.
When a fitting needs replacement or for one reason or another a screw or bolt holding a piece of stainless
equipment must be changed, screws or bolts holding stainless items should also be of ‘stainless steel’.
Many non-stainless fasteners in contact with stainless steel set up a galvanic corrosion. At best, this can
result in an unsightly fastener and a surrounding stain. At worst, it can result in the rapid failure of the
fastener.
Page 9

A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF FIBERGLASS REINFORCED PLASTICS
The plural components remain in liquid form until two or more are brought together in the gun in the
proper proportions and mixed. This mixing results in a chemical heat reaction (thermosetting) causing
materials to solidify (cure). Probably the most common type plural components is polyester resin. The
polyester resin bonds the lightweight, strong, flexible glass fiber into a stiff matrix to gain the physical
properties of both materials.
Polyester resins can be classified as either gelcoat (which are pigmented polyesters) or reinforcing resins
(structural resins or lay-up resins). Gelcoats usually are used as the first (or color) coat in a product,
(comparable to the paint on a car. The lay-up resins are used with glass fibers or other fibers (such as
cloth or Mat) to produce structures called laminates. They range in color from amber to clear and are
rarely pigmented. They are sprayed over the gelcoat to fuse themselves to the fiber forming a matrix. The
components then become a monolithic (seamless) structure.
Common glass, as is generally known, it’s very brittle substance which will break or shatter, when it is
impacted. This is because the large surface area with its many flaws reduces its tensile strength. In
fibrous form, the decreased size and surface area sharply reduces flaws and the flexible glass fiber
approaches its theoretical physical strength. Tensile strength of the fiber is the prime factor of resin-glass
construction.
A composite of glass fibers and polyester resins, each is important in its own way. The polyester resin in
its liquid state is plastic and adhesive. This material holds the glass fibers without damaging or reacting
with them, yet bonds the fibers so they cannot migrate or pull out this type of composite also Is able to
distribute the stress evenly, as well as retain the fibers if it breaks.
The combination of polyester resins and glass fibers are good structural materials and offer the fabricator
a number of advantages. Any shape article is possible, since the polyester is liquid, it will flow and readily
surround or capture any fibers or fillers. The desirable property of remaining in a liquid state at room
temperatures and solidifying only when a catalyst is added simplifies the type of equipment needed.
The temperature and mass of polyesters have a tremendous bearing on the cure cycle of the resin.
Usually the cure cycle is in the area of 1 to 2 hours depending upon production rates and product
designs, and is controlled by the amount of catalyst introduced into the resin. Catalyst is utilized to
overcome an Inhibitor which prevents premature polymerization of the resin. The amount of catalyst used
varies from 1 to 3 percent based on weight or volume. Cold substrate will delay the cure time cycle 4 to
10 times the stated time. If you do not achieve a proper cure at the time you apply the remaining coating,
the glass fibers will penetrate the previous coatings and possibly cause surface flaws. Shrinkage and (or)
wrinkles may also be evident. These are caused by styrene etching of the incured resin on the glass fiber.
High humidity will also inhibit good curing as water and polyesters are incompatible.
Page 1O

REPAIR OF FIBERGLASS GELCOAT
The repair of gelcoat is easy because only the surface of the boat is damaged. This is similar to a scratch
in automobile paint. The damage falls into two categories:
(1) Damage to the gelcoat colored outer surface.
(2) Holes or gouges that are deep enough to penetrate the fiberglass reinforced areas of the boat. The
repair operations are similar.
For damage to the gelcoat surface, you require: (1) A small can of gelcoat (the same color as your boat)
and (2) a small amount of catalyst. For deeper holes or gouges (½” or more), you will also require short
strands of fiberglass, which can be trimmed from fiberglass mat or purchased in the form of milled fibres.
1. Make sure the area around the damaged area is wiped clean and is dry. Remove any wax or oil from
the Inside of the hole or scratch (acetone can be used for this purpose).
2. Use a power drill with a burr attachment, to roughen the bottom and sides of the damaged area and
feather the edge surrounding the scratch or gouge. If a burr is not available, a putty knife and 400 grit
sandpaper can be used.
3. Pour a small amount of gelcoat into a jar lid or on cardboard. Add a drop or two of catalyst. Mix
thoroughly, using a cutting motion, rather than stirring. USE NO
FIBRES.
4. Using your finger or the tip of a putty knife, fill the hole with the gelcoat mixture, about 1/16” above the
surrounding surface.
5. Lay a piece of cellophane or waxed paper over the repair to cut off the air and start the cure.
6. After 10 or 15 minutes, the patch will be partially cured (70 degrees F.) When it feels rubbery to the
touch, remove the cellophane and trim flush with the surface. Use a sharp razor blade or putty knife.
Replace the cellophane and allow to cure completely (30 min. - 1 hr.). The patch will shrink slightly below
the surface as it cures.
7. Sand the patched area with 600 grit wet sandpaper. Finish by rubbing or buffing with fine rubbing
compound. Slight color difference may be observed but weathering will blend this touch-up, if properly
applied.
FOR HOLES AND GOUGES:
(1) Repeat Steps 1 & 2.
(2) Mix gelcoat as before in Step 3 except mix an equal amount of milled fibers with this gelcoat, using a
putty knife or small flat stick. Then add two drops of catalyst using an eye dropper for accurate
measurement. For a half dollar size pile of gelcoat, this amount of catalyst will give you 15 to 20 minutes
working time before it begins to gel.`34566790—f .
(3) Work this mixture of gelcoat, fibres and catalyst into the damaged area. Use the sharp point of a putty
knife blade to press it into the bottom of the hole and to puncture any air bubbles, which may occur. Fill
the scratch or hole about 1/16” above the surrounding undamaged area.
(4) Repeat Steps 5, 6 & 7.
Page 11

CARE OF FIBERGLASS BOATS
Gelcoat, which is the color material used on fiberglass, is susceptible to the bombardment of ultra-violet
rays of the sun and to general weathering. These elements, In time, cause a fading of the color and a
chalking of the surface.
The best method of preventing this is the application of a quality wax. The wax should be light in color or
white so that it will not discolor the surface. If possible, you should choose a wax with a cleaner. This will
remove the surface dirt. The wax should not be water soluble and should have some resistance to
detergents.
Spray waxes can be used between heavy duty waxings to remove superficial dirt and protect the gelcoat.
RUST REMOVAL FROM GELCOAT: To remove rust from gelcoat surfaces, the following method is
satisfactory:
Soak the rust area with a mild solution of ‘Hydrofluoric Acid’. This is the same type of solution that is used
by dry cleaning establishments to remove rust from clothing.
Two precautions must be taken:
1. Hydrofluoric acid can cause severe skin burns, particularly under fingernails, therefore, RUBBER
GLOVES MUST BE WORN. Read the instructions on the label carefully.
2. Hydrofluoric acid will dissolve gelcoat and therefore surfaces must be thoroughly flushed with water
after the rust has been removed.
Typical products for fiberglass care:
CLEANERS:
Kuhls fiberglass boat cleaner
Fuller Brush Co. Fiberglass cleaner.
SOAPS:
Kuhls fiberglass boat soap
Fuller Brush Co. boat soap.
WAXES:
Kuhls Boat Wax
Fuller Brush Co. Boat Wax
S.C.Johnson & Son Inc. (J Wax kit)
Page 12

A WORD ABOUT CORROSION
Corrosion is evident in many forms, and we see it every day. It eats holes in your automobile, causes
hydro breakdowns, it can crack a bridge, wreck an aircraft or riddle a pipeline. It works in the air,
underground or underwater.
Most of us think of it as “RUST”. Actually rust is only the familiar kind of corrosion that attacks ferrous
metal; iron or steel. Corrosion inevitably eats away at all metals unless they are protected.
The corrosion process is fairly simple. Every metal contains electrochemical energy that seeks to release
itself - a restless movement of little particles, called “ions”, to the surface. When the metal comes in
contact with a conducting electrolyte - the commonest being air and water, small electrical currents begin
to flow through that metal. Parts of the metal, which are called the “anode” areas, give up little particles of
themselves, and that is corrosion.
The corrosion rates of such metals as gold and silver is infinitesimal. A tiny flow of one ampere of
electricity can disintegrate 20 pounds of steel in one year. Other agents combined with air and water,
such as salty or acidic pollutants, help speed corrosion.
Luckily, some metals take care of themselves by automatically forming their own surface coating. Pure
aluminum oxidizes rapidly in the air to form a transparent protective film of aluminum oxide, about one-
ten-millionth of a millimeter thick. Stainless steel sets up an invisible insulating film only one molecule
thick.
Boat owners should be particularly aware of corrosion since the boat spends its life in or near a very
hostile environment “Water”. This is particularly true of those boats sailed in salt water.
Owners should check their boats carefully at the beginning of each season for possible corrosion. The
following list is a general guide for any boat.
1. Mast, especially where fillings are attached.
2. Boom
3. Masthead
4. Mast Step
5. Stays and fittings
6. Halyards and fittings
7. Chain plates and fastenings
8. Keel bolts (if keel boat, tighten before launching)
9. Centerboard pennant wire and pin
10. Tiller head and fastening
11. Stem filling and fastening
12. Seacocks
13. Head and connections
14. Any underwater electronic fittings
15. Rudder pintles and gudgeons (daysailers)
Page 13

GENERAL PROCEDURE FOR CHECKING LEAKS
Generally, leaks can be broken down into two categories:
(a) Below waterline leaks.
(b) Deck leaks.
A systematic procedure is the best way of finding and fixing any leak. Therefore, the following is a general
procedure for finding leaks in any boat:
ABOVE WATERLINE OR DECK LEAKS: These leaks are usually easier to find than the below waterline
type. This is because the source is more readily apparent. Use the following list to check the possible
source:
1. All deck hardware, such as cleats, chocks, genoa track, etc.
2. Chain plates.
3. Windows
4. Hatches
5. Vent.
Screws and bolts are the culprits in most cases. If the right one can be found, back it off or remove it and
squirt some silicone sealer in the hole and replace the bolt. Fittings that leak are best repaired by
removing and sealing with silicone.
Deck leaks along the hull deck joint are the most difficult to find and repair. Generally these can be
repaired with silicone from the inside. However, in extreme cases, the removal of the gunwale may be
necessary to seal from outside. Again screws or pop rivets may be the problem. These sometimes
penetrate the bonding material and cause leaks. These are difficult to find and only leak under sail when
the rail is well down.
UNDERWATER LEAKS; Firstly try to determine if the leak only develops when under sail or power or
does it leak at the mooring. This fact can tell you a great deal about where to look.
If the boat leaks when at the mooring, it generally means this is a filling, which is below the waterline at all
times. Such items as centerboard pins, shaft logs, packing nuts, centerboard lever assemblies and rudder
parts fall into this group. If the leak develops under sail or power, it can be in areas where the water level
rises as the hull speed increases. Such items as, centerboard trunks, cockpit drains, toilets, ice boxes
and sink drains are in this group.
Once you have isolated the leak into one of these categories, start checking at the bow and work your
way toward the stern. Inspect every fitting or place where a hole has been made in the hull. Check the
following, starting at the bow:
1. Head (toilet).
2. Seacock for Head.
3. Ice box drain & seacock.
4. Sink drain and seacock.
5. Centerboard pin.
6. Centerboard cable and attachment.
7. Engine drains, water pump, and seacock.
8. Cockpit drains and seacocks.
9. Shaft log and stuffing box.
10. Rudder port.
11. Bulkhead between outboard well and interior.
Page 14

These items should be checked when moored. The bilge should be pumped and dry as possible. Operate
the boat under sail on both tacks and under power. Have someone competent go below and check all the
list of Items again.
Some leaks seem to defy every known method of detection. However, do not try to remove major
component before checking with the factory. More damage can be done and the leak still may not be
found. If you have done a thorough lob of checking and cannot find the leak, write the factory describing
the nature of the leak.
One last word, underwater leaks can sometimes be found by pulling the boat from the water and filling the
bilge with water. Dry off the hull below the waterline. Watch closely for any seepage. The leak may be
small under these circumstances because of less pressure and strain.
SUGGESTED METHODS OF REPAIR: Silicone sealer is the best method of sealing leaks around fillings
and screws. It’s easy to use and does an excellent lob. Two companies manufacture the product - Dow
Corning and General Electric.
For seeps and weeps above or below the waterline, epoxy sealers work well. One such product is Glu-Vit,
made by Travaco Lab Inc., 345 Eastern Avenue, Chelsea, Mass. 02150 Follow the directions on the can.
This type of product is good if you have a leak in an area but can’t pin point It exactly. Sand any paint off
and brush the epoxy over the whole area.
FILLERS: PUTTY/PASTE; These are good for filling voids or gouges in fiberglass. They can also be used
to bond items to fiberglass. There are many such products on the market, two of which are:
Epotex made by: H. B. Fred Kuhls Inc.
100 Holiday St.
Jersey City. N.J.
Formula 27 Fibre Glass Evercoat Inc.
6600 Cornell Rd.
Cincinnati, Ohio 45242.
Page 15

ACADIAN 30
HULL & DECK - The hull is one piece hand lay-up fiberglass. The keel is made of cast Iron (3400 lb.) and
is fiberglassed inside the hull. All thru-huII fittings are fiberglassed into the hull and have seacocks
installed. The propeller shaft log containing the stuffing box is fiberglassed securely into the hull. The
interior units are made separately and installed into the hull before the deck is put on.
The deck is a one piece laminate, reinforced with half inch plywood and stringers to provide strength and
stiffness. All fittings are either thru-bolted or tapped into metal, which is bonded into the laminate. It is
strongly suggested that owners installing gear on the deck drill through and use nuts and washers to
secure. All fittings including the windows are sealed with marine silicone sealer before installation.
The hull deck joint is fiberglassed with four layers of 1.5 ounce mat.
RUDDER: The rudder is fiberglass with an 11/4” bronze rudder stock bonded in. The rudder port is
bronze with bronze bushings. The rudder is held in place at the bottom by a bronze heel casting. It would
be necessary to remove this casting in order to remove the rudder. This casting is held on by flat head
bolts drilled through the fiberglass and tapped into the opposite side of the casting.
The water tank is located under the main cabin floor. This is a built in tank of fiberglass, which is
gelcoated on the inside. Its capacity is approximately 38 gallons.
The gas tank is made of fiberglass using fire retardant resin. It is located under the port cockpit locker. On
older models, it was made of monel. The capacity is 16 U.S. gallons.
The shaft log stuffing box may occasionally require tightening. A slight drip is desirable as this lubricates
the shaft and packing and prevents scaring. The thread is left hand on the newer boats and right hand on
older models. Loosen the lock nut behind the packing nut before tightening.
All electrical circuits are fused with 10 amp glass type automotive fuses. The panel is located on the
bulkhead under the engine box.
Owners are requested to follow the instructions supplied by the manufacturers of such items as; engine,
stove and head.
The two P.V.C. white vents located on the aft deck are for bilge ventilation. This is in accordance with
Coast Guard Regulations. Caps are provided to cover the openings when the vents are removed for
storage. Fiberglass dorade vents are provided on the fore deck for cabin ventilation.
RIGGING: The mast and boom are aluminum alloy type 6351. All standing rigging is 3/16 stainless steel x
1 x 19 construction, which has a breaking strength of 4700 lbs. ‘The turnbuckles are ¾” S.S. with a
breaking strength of 6380 lbs. All terminals used on standing rigging are aircraft type and are swaged on.
The halyards are wire with twisted dacron rope tails. The wire is 1/s x 7 x 19 flexible construction with a
breaking strength of 2100 lbs. The main and jib sheets are 7 16” Samson Braid with a breaking strength
of 5300 lbs.
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NORTHWIND 29
HULL and DECK: The hull is one piece hand lay-up fiberglass. The lead keel (3150 lb.) is made in two
pieces, which are installed one on each side of the centerboard trunk. All thru-hulI fittings are fiberglassed
Into the hull and have seacocks installed. The propeller shaft log containing the stuffing box is
fiberglassed securely into the hull. The interior units are made separately and installed into the hull before
the deck is put on.
The deck is a one piece laminate reinforced with half inch balsa core to provide strength and stiffness. A
one piece molded headliner is fiberglassed into the deck. All fittings are either thru-bolted or tapped into
metal, which is bonded into the laminate. It is strongly suggested that owners installing gear on the deck,
drill through and use nuts and washers to secure. All fittings including the windows are sealed with marine
silicone sealer before installation.
The hull deck joint is the overlap type, where the deck fits down over the outside of the hull. This is held
on with three sixteenth pop rivets and bonded on the Inside with two layers of fiberglass mat.
CENTERBOARD: The centerboard is solid fiberglass and includes an aluminum plate for attaching the
pennant wire. A weight plate is also moulded into the lower portion to give negative buoyancy to the
board. The board is held into the trunk by a stainless steel bolt with self-locking nut. This is located below
the inspection door in the cabin floor near the dinette. This bolt should be checked from time to time for
leakage. Since this is in the bilge, some water may be present even though there is no leakage around
the bolt.
RUDDER: The rudder is fiberglass with a fabricated stainless steel stock. The rudder port is bronze with
bronze bushings. The rudder is held in place by a bronze heel casting attached to the hull. It would be
necessary to remove this casting In order to remove the rudder. This is a split two-piece casting held
together with stainless steel bolts.
SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR NORTHWIND OWNERS; The seacock on the sink and ice box drain
located under the galley counter, should be closed when sailing. If this is not done, there is a possibility
that water may come in and flood the ice box and sink.
The water tank is located under the quarter berth. This tank holds approximately 11 U.S. gallons. There is
a vent that runs up behind the galley unit. If the tank is accidentally overfilled, water will run out on the
floor.
The gas tank is made of Fibreglass using fire retardant resin. It is located under-the cockpit sole aft of the
engine. On older models it is located behind the aft dinette seat. The capacity is 15 gallons.
The shaft log stuffing box may occasionally require tightening. A slight drip is desirable as this lubricates
the shaft and packing and prevents scoring. The thread on this is left hand. To tighten, first loosen the
lock nut behind the packing nut.
The centerboard should be in the full up position when the boat is not in use. This will prevent
unnecessary banging around.
All electrical circuits are fused with 10 amp glass type automotive fuses. The panel is located behind the
starboard aft locker directly behind the instrument panel.
Owners are requested to follow the instructions supplied by the manufacturers of such items as, engine,
stove and head.
The two-chrome ventilators located on the cockpit coamings of inboard boats are for bilge ventilation.
This is in accordance with U.S. Coast Guard Regulations. Under
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some sea conditions, it may be possible to take in water through these vents. This is particularly true of
the one facing forward.
RIGGING: The mast and boom are aluminum alloy type 6351. All standing rigging Is stainless steel 1 ‘C
19 construction. The forestay, backstay and two main uppers are 7/ 32” wire with a breaking strength of
6300 lbs. and are equipped with 7/16” SS turn-buckles, breaking strength of 8580 lbs. The four lower side
stays are 3/16” SS wire with a breaking strength of 4700 lbs. and are equipped with ¾” 55 turnbuckles
with a breaking strength of 6380 lbs. All terminals are aircraft type and are swaged on.
The halyards are 1/8” 7 x 19 flexible wire with ¾” Dacron rope tails. All sheets are 7/ 16” Samson braid
with a breaking strength of 5300 lbs.
It is recommended that the owner tape all the ends of the turnbuckles after checking the locknuts to see
that they are tight. It is also a good idea to tape or cover the spreader ends to protect the jib from chafing.
THE CARE AND UP-KEEPOF TEAK
NORTHWIND, ACADIAN, WESTWIND, PACESHIP 23, BLUEJACKET:
Teak is a remarkable wood. Even so, it has its peculuarities and if you are to get the
most from it these must be taken into account.
True, this wood requires no protection against the weather and it is remarkably durable. Even when left
bare, it doesn’t check easily and is highly immune to rot. Yet if utterly neglected, it can look drab, giving a
boat an unkempt appearance. Some owners have asked “How do I get that clean, silvery look?” The
more you rely on the washing and bleaching action of the sun, the better. Unless your location is par-
ticularly dirty, an occasional scrubbing should suffice. Don’t overdo it. A wire or other stiff brush will tend
to cut down the softer wood of the grain and leave the harder ridges standing high.
The various bleaches made especially for teak do a good job, but avoid getting it on adjacent paint or
varnish. Where sanding is necessary, also be careful not to overdo
it. Usually light sanding will reveal clean wood immediately beneath the dead surface. Too fine a
sandpaper tends to rub surface dirt into the wood. Actually, teak should be scraped with a cabinet
scraper, but few persons have the skill for doing this, without removing too much wood.
To treat outside, the newer teak treating products are available in a wide choice of name brands; two of
these are “Kuhls Teak Oil” and”Penta-Var”. Retreating should not be necessary for several months. A
thorough cleaning ordinarily is enough to ready the surface for brushing or wiping on a fresh coat. For
those who cannot obtain teak oil, a mixture of raw linseed and turpentine will suffice. Do not apply too
much or the wood will not absorb it and it will lay on the surface and collect dirt.
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WESTWIND 24
HULL & DECK
Both the hull and deck are one piece hand lay-up fiberglass construction. The centerboard trunk is
moulded integrally with the hull. Approximately 2370 lbs. of cast iron ballast is fiberglassed into the inside
of the hull. A separate outboard well is also included which has a bulkhead separating it from the
remainder of the boat. All under water fittings have seacocks installed. A plywood floor is installed over
the keel and the two main fiberglass interiors are screwed to it. These interiors are secured at the fore
and aft ends to bulkheads and also fiberglass handed at the top. The forward interior is moulded in one
piece and contains the water tank. The deck is reinforced with plywood, which is sandwiched into the
laminate. All deck fittings are either thru bolted or tapped into metal plates bonded in to the laminate.
RUDDER - SKEG - CENTERBOARD
The rudder is fiberglass with a bronze rudder stock bonded into it. A bronze heel casting at the lower end
attaches it to the skeg. The skeg itself is fiberglass and fits into a slot in the hull. This is fiberglass bonded
into the hull. The centerboard is nearly solid fiberglass and contains a bronze bushing for the pin, a
stainless steel tang for the pennant wire and a metal weight at the lower end. The centerboard operating
equipment is as follows:
a) A bronze pin holds the centerboard into the trunk. This pin is fiberglassed in and is located under the
steps near the floor. To remove it, sand or chip off the fiberglass over the pin. The pennant wire is
attached with a clevis pin to the board. Two sheaves are located in the trunk for the wire to pass over.
The centerboard winch is located on a pedestal on the cockpit floor. The wire is held into the winch with
an allen head screw. The centerboard should be raised to the full up position when not in use. Lubricate
the centerboard winch occasionally with oil.
OUTBOARD WELL
Like most outboard wells, it is possible to take water in under some operating conditions. The following
procedure is recommended to minimize this problem.
1. Remove the motor from the well when sailing. This will reduce drag and contribute to better sailing
qualities.
2. Install the plug insert. This will keep much of the water out of the well.
3. Remove the drain plug from the forward part of the motor well box. This will allow any water to drain
out. When under power, decide on conditions if the plug is best left in or out.
RIGGING
The mast and boom are aluminum type 6351. The standing rigging is 3416” stainless steel wire x 1.119
construction, which has a breaking strength of 4700 lbs. The turn-buckles are ¾” S.S. with a breaking
strength of 6380 lbs. All terminals used on standing rigging are aircraft type and are swaged on.
The halyards are wire with twisted Dacron rope tails. The wire is ½” x 7 x 19 flexible construction with a
breaking strength of 2100 lbs. The main and jib sheets are ¾”samson braid, with a breaking strength of
3500 lbs. Owners should tape both ends of their turnbuckles and wrap the spreader ends after the boat is
rigged. This will prevent chaffing of sheets and sails.
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