Pacific Aeromodel 27 percentGee Bee "Y" ARF User manual

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Pacific Aeromodel Mfg., Inc.
27% Gee Bee “Y” ARF
(A Giant Sport Scale Model)
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
Congratulations on your purchase of this high quality Almost-Ready-to-Fly model airplane kit. It
has been created by experienced designers and skilled craftsmen and many of its parts have been
factory built for you. Nevertheless, its ultimate success or failure depends on you. Be sure you have
read and understand this entire manual before attempting to assemble, set up and fly this model
airplane.
This manual is intended for experienced ARF assemblers. If you have any questions or anything
seems confusing, please contact us for clarification. Some pictures in this manual may not exactly
match the contents of your kit due to ongoing production improvements.
WARNING - THIS IS NOT A TOY!
Radio controlled model aircraft are capable of inflicting serious injury and/or property damage if not
assembled, operated and maintained in a competent and safe manner. The successful assembly,
operation and maintenance of radio controlled model aircraft are not intuitive skills and performing
them safely and competently takes experience. If you are not already an experienced radio
controlled aircraft assembler and flyer, we STRONGLY suggest that you find an experienced
modeler to assist you with the assembly and operation of this model airplane.

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WARRANTY
Pacific Aeromodel Mfg., Inc. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in material and
workmanship at the time of purchase and for 30 days thereafter. This warranty does not cover any
component parts damaged by use, modification or the installation of an engine larger than those
specified. In no event shall Pacific Aeromodel Mfg., Inc.’s liability exceed the original purchase
price of this kit. Pacific Aeromodel Mfg., Inc. reserves the right to change or modify this warranty
without notice.
Since Pacific Aeromodel Mfg., Inc. has no control over the final assembly of this kit, the materials
and accessories used in the final assembly, or the manner in which the assembled model is used, no
liability is assumed or accepted for any damage resulting from the use of the assembled model
aircraft. By the acts of assembling and using the assembled aircraft, the user accepts all resulting
liability.
Pacific Aeromodel Mfg., Inc recommends that you join the Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA),
which provides its members with liability insurance covering the use of model aircraft. You can
reach them at 5161 East Memorial Drive, Muncie, Indiana 47302, phone # [phone], or email
www.modelaircraft.org.
ALWAYS OPERATE THIS MODEL AIRCRAFT IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE
AMA SAFETY CODE.
(A copy is included at the back of this manual.)
PARTS LIST
Inspect the components of this kit now. If you find any parts damaged or missing, call or email us
right away. We cannot accept the return of parts on which assembly work has already begun.
Fuselage with sliding engine box and
windshield installed
Right wing with aileron and (5) giant scale
hinges
Left wing with aileron and (5) giant scale
hinges
Vertical fin and rudder with (4) hinges
Horizontal stabilizer with (2) elevators and
(8) hinges
Aluminum wing tubes (3)
Plastic throttle and choke pushrod
assemblies
Cowl with mounting blocks and dummy
engine
Trim sticker pack
Wing struts, front (2), rear (2)
3/4”x 3/8”x 5 3/4” balsa tank retainer stick
Plywood pushrod standoffs (4)
Main landing gear assembly (2)
Wheel pants, fixed (2), sliding (2)
Main wheels (2)
Fuel Tank (gasoline only)
Tail wheel assembly
4-40 x 3” pushrod assembly (2)
4-40 x 4” pushrod assembly (2)
Pull-pull cable assemblies (2)
Metal control horns (6)
1/4-20 x 2” nylon wing bolts (2)

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EQUIPMENT SELECTION
Engine: The Pacific 27% Gee Bee “Y” is very light for it’s size and it will fly very well with a mid-
size gasoline engine. It was designed to use a classic, heavy 43 to 62cc engine (with tail-weight
added), or one of the new, light 40 to 50cc engines, (with nose weight added). NOTE: Using an
engine larger than the top of this range could overstress the airframe. It will also void your warranty.
Propeller: The cowl is 12” in diameter. You will probably want to use at least a 20” diameter
propeller to generate enough thrust outside the cowl.
Cooling: Do not omit the dummy engine. Leaving the cowling fully open will slow down the air
that passes over the engine and could cause your engine to overheat.
Safety: The first and second most common causes of in-flight radio failure are the battery and the
switch. We STRONGLY recommend that you install dual batteries and dual switches in any giant
scale model. Many events and clubs are now requiring a throttle-down failsafe in all giant scale
models. We agree. If you have a PCM radio, make sure the failsafe is set for low throttle, and if you
are using FM (PPM), get and use one of the new after-market failsafe devices.
Servos: You will need 6 or 7 servos. The aileron and elevator servos should have at least 70 oz/in
of torque. The rudder servo should have at least 100 oz/in of torque. Use proper mechanical linkage
setup to get the control travels you need. Using your transmitter’s EPA function instead of the
proper mechanical setup to reduce the travels will also reduce the effective torque of your servos and
may invite control surface flutter, possibly resulting in loss of control of the airplane.
Servo extensions: You will need (2) 12” extensions, (2) 18” extensions and (2) 24” extensions. If
you use one channel for both elevator servos, you will also need (1) reversing “Y” adapter.
Spinner: The full scale Gee Bee “Y” did not use a spinner. It had a large bullet shaped prop hub
instead. The closest thing we have found that will fit the 27% Gee Bee is the Tru-Turn # TTH-1750-
A prop hub. This hub is available from Tru-Turn or Pacific.
ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
REMOVE THE CONTROL SURFACES FROM THE WINGS, STABILIZER AND
VERTICAL FIN. The factory has temporarily attached the control surfaces, but the hinges are
not glued in place. This is done to make it easier to re-shrink the covering if necessary, and also
so that you can be SURE that the hinges are glues in properly. The first assembly step is to
detach the control surfaces and remove the hinges. NOTE that one of the hinges in each aileron
has been shortened. This hinge goes in the position closest to the tip and the short end goes into
the aileron.
RE-SHRINK THE COVERING. If we could control the weather, we could make sure that the
covering wouldn’t bubble and sag after you take the parts out of the bags. But we can’t, and the
temperature and humidity at our factory are probably different from where you are. This makes
bubbles and sags almost inevitable. First, use a covering iron to go over the seams and color
separations. (NOTE: Keep the iron away from the flat black “NR 718 Y” on the wing and
rudder. It is low temp material and high heat will distort it. The glossy black trim is normal,

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high temp material.) Then go over the entire airplane with a covering iron or a heat gun and a
rag. Heat the covering until it is tight and wrinkle free (it can take a lot of heat, but stay away
from the seams and “N” numbers as much as you can) and then quickly rub the covering down to
the wood with the rag. Once this is done the covering will stay tight and wrinkle free for quite a
while.
ASSEMBLING THE WINGS
ATTACH THE AILERONS TO THE WINGS. We recommend Pacer Hinge Glue for this
operation. Epoxy will work, but the hinge glue is water-base and much easier to use.
Glue the hinges into the aileron first. Make sure that the hinge will go in far enough that the
hinge pin is even with the point of the “V” on the leading edge of the control surface. Enlarge
the first 1/4” of the hinge hole if the “knuckle” of the hinge won’t go in far enough. Put a tiny
drop of light oil on the hinge pin and flex each
hinge a few times to work the oil in. Put glue
into the hinge hole in the aileron and lightly coat
one end of the hinge. Push the hinge into the
fixed surface until the hinge pin is just touching
the point of the “V”. Clean off any glue that
squeezes out of the hole.
Now, bend each hinge down 90 degrees and twist
it until it is perpendicular to the leading edge of
the aileron (looking from the front) and parallel
to the other hinges in the same surface. All of
the hinge pins must line up with each other and be perpendicular to the leading edge or the
control surface will bind up and not travel freely. Let the glue dry completely before proceeding.
Test fit the aileron onto the wing. IMPORTANT: The ailerons have hard points built in for the
control horns. Be sure to put the hard points on the bottom when installing the ailerons.
Enlarge the first 1/4” of the hole if needed. Try to keep the hinge gap down to 1/32” or so.
When you are happy with the fit, glue the hinges into the fixed surface. Clean excess glue out of
the hinge gaps with a wet paper towel and a
business card (rubbing alcohol if you used
epoxy). Set the wing aside to dry.
INSTALL THE AILERON SERVOS. Test
fit your servo in the aileron servo mount and
enlarge the opening if necessary. Attach an
18” extension to your servo and install a
piece of 3/8” shrink tubing over the
connection to be sure that it doesn’t come
loose.

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There is a string attached to a small block of wood, tack glued
inside the servo opening. This string leads to the hole in the top of
the wing near the root rib where the servo lead must exit the wing.
There you will find another wood block holding that end of the
string. Break the block inside the servo opening loose and pull the
string out a few inches. Separate the wires of your servo extension
just above the plug and slip the block through. Break the block at
the other end of the string loose and pull the string and servo wire
through the wing and out the hole in the root rib. Now you can
screw the servo to the servo mount using the screws supplied with the servo. Mount the servo
with the servo arm toward the front. Remove the string from the servo wire and then do the
other wing the same way.
AILERON DIFFERENTIAL. The Gee Bee
“Y” flies best with aileron differential dialed
in. By using separate channels for the
ailerons and the flaperon function, you can
do this directly from most transmitters.
(Adjust to the recommended aileron travel at
the end of this manual.) If your transmitter
doesn’t have this function, center your
servos with the transmitter, then install the
aileron servo arms two splines toward the leading edge from the normal position (see picture).
INSTALL THE AILERON PUSHRODS AND CONTROL HORNS. Locate the two 3”
pushrods, one left and one right control horn and eight 2.6x12mm self tapping screws. Attach
one end of the pushrod to the outer hole of your servo arm and the other end to the outer hole in
one of the control horns.
Use a small clamp or tape to hold the aileron level. Hold the control horn in position so that the
pushrod comes straight back from the servo arm and mark the position of the four control horn
mounting screws. Make sure the base of the horn is over the hard point in the aileron. Drill
1/16” pilot holes and screw the horn to the aileron. Do the other wing the same way.
CHECK THE FIT OF THE WINGS TO THE FUSELAGE. Locate the 23mm aluminum wing
joiner tube and the two 10mm alignment tubes. File off any burrs or sharp edges on the ends of
the tubes. Slip the tubes into each wing separately. If the tube is hard to push into either wing,
rub the outside of the tube with candle wax. Put the wings together and test fit them onto the
fuselage to make sure that the wing retainer dowels in the front of the wing and the nylon wing
bolt holes in the rear line up properly with the holes and blind nuts in the fuselage. If there is any
misalignment, use a round file to move the holes as required. It is not necessary to glue the
wings together.
INSTALLING THE MAIN LANDING GEAR
PREPARE THE STRUTS AND WHEEL PANTS. Locate the two main gear assemblies, the
fixed and sliding wheel pants and the related hardware bags. Remove the rear braces from the

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main strut assemblies.
Also drill 3/32” pilot holes
through the mounting
flange of the fixed pants,
one in front, one in back
and one on each side.
INSTALL THE MAIN
STRUTS. Attach the main
strut to the gear mount in
the wing, using three 8-32
x 5/8” socket head bolts,
lock washers and flat
washers. Important: Use
a thread-locking compound
on all of the bolts in the
landing gear.
Slip the fixed portion of the wheel pant in place, then put the rear
brace inside the pant and reattach it to the strut.
Hold the fixed part of the pant up, out of the way while you attach the rear brace to the wing
using a 6-32 x 3/8” socket head bolt, lock washer and flat washer. Do not attach the fixed pant
to the wing yet. That will be the last step in the wheel pant installation.
INSTALL THE WHEEL PANTS. Slip the sliding pant over the strut (it is a tight fit) and fit it
inside the fixed pant. Attach the sliding portion of the pant to the main gear fork using 4-40 x
1/2” button head bolts, lock washers and flat washers.
Put a flat washer on the axle bolt, then slide it through pants and the fork, adding a wheel collar,
a wheel and another wheel collar inside the pant and a flat washer and the lock nut on the
outside. Make the nut snug, but do not over tighten it.

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Center the wheel in the opening in the
pant and then tighten the wheel
collars.
Twist the sliding pant until the axle is
lined up with the leading edge of the
wing, then drill 1/16” pilot holes and
attach the fixed portion of the pant to
the wing using 4 of the 2.6x10mm
Phillips head self tapping screws.
ASSEMBLING THE FUSELAGE
MOUNT YOUR ENGINE TO THE
ENGINE BOX. The firewall has right thrust and down thrust built in. Mark the top of the
firewall so you don’t accidentally reverse it. The engine box is not glued in, pull it out of the
front of the fuselage. The centerlines for mounting your engine are scribed on the front of the
firewall.
Coat the inside and outside of the firewall
and the inside of the engine box back to
the first former with “finish-cure” or
thinned 30-minute epoxy. This will add
strength as well as protection for the
wood.
Mount your engine using the engine
mount and hardware that best fits your
engine. Carefully measure the mounting
holes of your engine mount and transfer
the measurements to the firewall making

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sure that your engine will be centered over the alignment marks on the firewall. Drill the holes
and install the engine, using a thread-locking
compound on the bolts.
Cut a block of 1/2” thick scrap balsa approximately
1” x 1 3/4” to act as a spacer to keep the fuel lines
from crimping against the firewall. Glue the block
against the back of the firewall as shown in the photo.
ASSEMBLE THE FUEL TANK. Assemble the fuel
tank as a three line (vent, fill/drain and carburetor)
system. The vent tube is bent up to the top of the tank
and the fill/drain tube is bent down to the bottom of
the tank. Use the black tubing provided for
the clunk line. It won’t harden like the
yellow tubing does.
INSTALL THE FUEL TANK. Drill a 1/4”
hole for the carburetor fuel line in a
convenient location in the firewall. Drill
holes in the bottom of the engine box just
behind the firewall for the vent and fill lines.
Feed the fuel lines through the holes and push the tank into the engine box, up against the spacer
block.
Glue the tank retainer across the rear of the box to hold the tank in place. If you need to remove
the tank later, you can just pop the retainer off.
GLUE IN THE ENGINE BOX. Slide the engine box into the fuselage until the back of the
propeller driver is 10” from the front fuselage former. (Approximately 9” from the front of the
rounded off ring on the front of the fuselage.) Draw a line around the front of the box where it

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meets the fuselage. Remove the box, spread 30-minute epoxy behind the line and reinsert it into
the fuselage. Set the fuselage aside until the epoxy sets up completely.
INSTALL THE THROTTLE AND CHOKE
SERVOS AND PUSHRODS. Although the
choke can be operated manually, we
recommend that you hook it up to a servo for
ease of operation and to provide a way to
stop the engine from the transmitter. This
is not a substitute for a radio failsafe, but it
provides a backup in case of throttle servo or
linkage problems.
There are five servo tray openings in the
fuselage, three at the bottom of the area
above the wing saddle and two on the side.
The rudder servo needs to go in the center
bottom opening, but you can use whichever of the others provides the straightest routing to the
choke and throttle arms. We have also included two separate single servo-mounting trays that
you can locate to suit your engine, but be sure that you don’t mount any servo closer than 8
inches to any ignition component. Drill holes in the front fuselage former as needed and route
the pushrods along the fuselage sides to the choke and carb arms.
INSTALL THE DUMMY ENGINE. Do not leave the dummy engine out! In addition to
looking good, it serves as a cooling baffle to direct air over your model engine. Leaving the cowl
completely open in the front will slow down the air that comes in and could make your engine
overheat. Cut away only the part of the dummy engine that will be in front of your engine’s
cylinder.
The best way to glue the dummy engine in place is on a temporary work stand made from
household scrap. A 44-oz. soda cup works perfectly for supporting the dummy engine. Rough
up the top front portion of the dummy cylinders and glue them directly to the inside of the cowl

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with 30-minute epoxy. The epoxy will give
you time to set the dummy engine/cowl
assembly up as shown and to carefully
center the dummy engine within the cowl.
INSTALL THE COWL MOUNTING
BLOCKS. Locate the four factory covered
hardwood cowl mounting blocks. Glue
them into the notches in the fuselage nose
ring with the long axis of the blocks
running across the fuselage.
FIT AND INSTALL THE COWL. Radial engines like the one used on the full scale Gee Bee Y
are mounted with one cylinder straight up. You should mount the Gee Bee’s cowl with one set
of bumps at the top center.
Fit the cowl over your engine and make any holes needed to clear the engine and muffler. Cut
away the part of the dummy engine that is in front of your engine’s cylinder. You may also want
to cut a cooling air exit at the bottom rear of the cowl just in front of the cooling air tunnel in the
fuselage. Push the cowl back until the plywood cowl ring touches the front of the hardwood
cowl mounting blocks. Drill 5/64” pilot holes through the outside of the cowl into the mounting
blocks and screw the cowl in place with the 2.6 x 12mm self tapping screws and flat washers
provided.
ATTACHING THE TAIL SURFACES
INSTALL THE TAIL WHEEL
ASSEMBLY. Before you hinge the rudder
to the vertical fin, you will need to install the
tail wheel strut into the rudder. Put 30
minute epoxy into factory drilled hole in the
leading edge of the rudder and the precut
slot, insert the wire tailwheel strut into the
hole and tape in place until the epoxy sets.

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ATTACH THE STICKERS. It will be
much easier to put the stickers on now,
than later. See the picture for their proper
location. (Run the rudder stickers parallel
to the ribs in the fin. The bottom of the
fin is not parallel to the direction of
travel.)
MOUNT THE STABILIZER. Bolt the
wing onto the fuselage and set the
airplane in a position so that you can sight
over the horizontal stab and wing
together. Put the stab on its saddle and
make sure that it is level
with the wing. If not, sand
one side of the saddle until
it is. Measure from the
wing back to the elevator
hinge line on each side and
adjust the stab until the
measurements are the same.
Draw a line along the joint
of the stab and fuselage,
both sides, top and bottom.
Remove the stab and remove the covering 3/32”
inside the lines. Add epoxy, reinstall the stab, recheck
the measurements and pin and tape it into position.
Check several times to make sure the alignments are
correct before the epoxy sets.
MOUNT THE VERTICAL FIN. Trial fit the fin in
position. The tab on the bottom of the fin should fit
all the way down in its slot and the fin should be 90
degrees to the horizontal stab. You can make
adjustments by sanding the sides of the fin tab a little,
if required. Draw a pencil line around the fin where it
touches the top of the fuselage. Cut away the
covering 3/32” inside the line, and also on the bottom
of the fin and the top of the fuselage. When you are
satisfied with the fit, epoxy the vertical fin in place and tape and pin it until the epoxy sets.
INSTALL THE ELEVATORS AND RUDDER. Attach the elevators and rudder using the same
techniques as you used for the ailerons.
ATTACH THE TAILWHEEL SUPPORT BRACKET TO THE FUSELAGE. Hold the bracket
over the rear end of the fuselage and drill 3/32” holes through the front and rear mounting holes.

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Screw the bracket in place with the two 2.6 x
12m self-tapping screws provided. Push the
wheel collar up under the bracket and tighten the
setscrew to hold it in place.
INSTALL THE ELEVATOR SERVOS. Add a
24” extension to each of your elevator servos and
use tape or shrink tubing to secure the
connections. Install the servos with the servo
arm toward the front, not to the rear as shown in
the picture.
INSTALL THE ELEVATOR PUSHRODS AND
CONTROL HORNS. Locate the two 4”
pushrods, one left and one right control horn and
eight 2.6x12mm self tapping screws. Attach one
end of the pushrod to the outer hole of your servo
arm and the other end to the outer hole in one of
the control horns.
Use a small clamp or tape to hold the elevator
level. Hold the control horn in position so that
the pushrod comes straight back from the servo
arm and mark the position of the four control
horn mounting screws. Make sure the base of
the horn is over the hard point in the elevator.
Drill 1/16” pilot holes and screw the horn to the
elevator. Do the other elevator the same way.
INSTALL THE RUDDER SERVO AND
CONTROL HORNS. Mount your rudder servo
in the center hole of the forward servo tray and
install a long servo arm. Locate the remaining
two control horns, four 2x20mm bolts and four
2mm nuts. The control horns are mounted on
both sides of the rudder, directly behind the cable
exits in the sides of the fuselage. The four bolts
go through the rudder and both horns and have a
nut on the second side. Make sure the base of
the horn is over the hard point in the elevator. Drill 3/32”
pilot holes and screw the horn to the elevator. Be sure to use a
thread-locking compound on the nuts.
ASSEMBLE THE PULL-PULL CABLES. Locate the two
pull-pull cable sets and adjust each of the four clevises so that
they are centered on the threaded area of the brass clevis
adapter. Prepare one end of each cable as follows.

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Pass one end of the cable through a
crimp tube and through the hole in the
threaded adapter.
Loop the cable back through the crimp
tube in the other direction, leaving
about 3” of cable past the tube.
Now loop the cable over the tube and
pass it through the tube a third time
going away from the clevis.
Pull the cable tight and squeeze the
crimp tube with a crimping tool or a
pair of pliers. Clip off any excess
cable. We like to put a drop of thin CA on each end of the crimp tube for added insurance.
Locate the cable exit in each side of the fuselage. Attach the finished end of the cables to the
outer holes in the rudder horns and feed the cables through the exits and forward in the fuselage.
(This is easy to do if you stand the fuselage on its nose.)
ATTACH THE CABLES TO THE SERVO. Attach the remaining loose clevis/adapter
assemblies to the outer holes of the servo arm. Center the rudder servo with your transmitter. Do
not cross the cables inside the fuselage. Clamp the rudder in a centered position. Stretch one
cable across the hole in the brass clevis adapter on that side and make a mark on the cable. Now
make a sharp 90-degree bend in the cable at the mark.
Remove the clevis assembly from the servo arm. Slide a crimp tube onto the cable, past the bend.
Now slip the cable through the hole in the clevis adapter up to the bend, then bend the cable back
on itself so that it makes a “U” through the adapter.
Pass the free end of the cable through the crimp tube, then loop the cable back toward the clevis
and pass it through the tube again. Pull the cable tight, squeeze the tube and clip off the excess.
Do the same with the other cable.
ADJUST THE CABLES. Reattach the clevises to the servo arm and use the clevis adapters on
both ends of the cables to adjust the centering of the rudder and the tension of the cables. The
cables should be tight enough to emit a base note when you “strum” them.

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INSTALL YOUR RECEIVER, SWITCHES
AND BATTERIES. We like to put the
switches in the cockpit floor ahead of the
pilot, but you can put them almost anywhere
that strikes your fancy.
Before you mount the batteries, assemble the
airplane and check the balance. (The CG
should be 5 ¼” behind the leading edge at the
wing root.) Move the batteries back and forth
to help eliminate any tendency toward nose or
tail-heaviness. After you have decided where
to put the batteries, take the wing off and
secure the batteries with scrap wood.
INSTALL THE WING STRUTS. The wing
struts are not required to support the wing, but
they sure add to the scale look of the Gee Bee.
You will have to remove the struts each time
you remove the wings, but it’s only four
screws and it’s worth it!
There are two red struts for the front of the
wing and two white struts for the rear. Insert
the dowels in the bottom end of the struts into
the wing. The top and bottom ends of the
struts are cut at different angles depending on
where they go. With the wing mounted on the
fuselage, trial fit the struts and mark the one that fits best in each position.
Locate the hardwood blocks factory installed in the fuselage, hold the top of the strut against the
block and drill a 3/32” pilot hole through the predrilled hole in the strut. Fasten the struts to the
fuselage with the 2.6x12mm self-tapping screws provided.
SETTING UP THE AIRPLANE
In order to fly well, this and any other airplane must be set up correctly. Follow these
instructions carefully to insure a successful first flight. The setup below is intended for a flyer
with low wing tail-dragger experience. After becoming familiar with the airplane, you may elect
to change the setup to better suit your individual flying style. The low rates are for the novice
flyer and give smooth and gentle response to the controls. High rates are about right for the
experienced sport flyer.
BALANCE THE AIRPLANE: Balance the 27% Gee Bee Y 5 1/4” behind the leading edge of
the wing at the side of the fuselage. Be sure to balance the airplane laterally as well, by adding
weight to the light wingtip.

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SET THE CONTROL THROWS. These are the recommended starting throws, measured at the
widest point of the control surface:
Low Rates High Rates
Ailerons 1 1/2” 2” up
7/8” 1 1/4” down
Elevators 3/4” 1” each way
Rudder 1 1/2” 2” each way
FLY SAFE, and HAVE FUN!
Jim Johnson, Pacific Aeromodel
Jim Johnson, Pacific Aeromodel Jim Johnson, Pacific Aeromodel
Jim Johnson, Pacific Aeromodel
Pacific Aeromodel Mfg., Inc.
12368 Valley Blvd. #109
El Monte, CA 91732
www.pacaeromodel.com

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Official
Academy of Model Aeronautics
National Model Aircraft Safety Code
Effective January 1, 2006
GENERAL
1. A model aircraft shall be defined as a non-human-carrying device capable of sustained flight in the
atmosphere. It shall not exceed limitations established in this code and is intended to be used exclusively for
recreational or competition activity.
2. The maximum takeoff weight of a model aircraft, including fuel, is 55 pounds, except for those flown under
the AMA Experimental Aircraft Rules.
3. I will abide by this Safety Code and all rules established for the flying site I use. I will not willfully fly my
model aircraft in a reckless and/or dangerous manner.
4. I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air shows, or model demonstrations until it has been
proven airworthy.
5. I will not fly my model aircraft higher than approximately 400 feet above ground level, when within three (3)
miles of an airport without notifying the airport operator. I will yield the right-of-way and avoid flying in the
proximity of full-scale aircraft, utilizing a spotter when appropriate.
6. I will not fly my model aircraft unless it is identified with my name and address, or AMA number, inside or
affixed to the outside of the model aircraft. This does not apply to model aircraft flown indoors.
7. I will not operate model aircraft with metal-blade propellers or with gaseous boosts (other than air), nor will I
operate model aircraft with fuels containing tetranitromethane or hydrazine.
8. I will not operate model aircraft carrying pyrotechnic devices which explode or burn, or any device, which
propels a projectile of any kind. Exceptions include Free Flight fuses or devices that burn producing smoke
and are securely attached to the model aircraft during flight. Rocket motors up to a G-series size may be
used, provided they remain firmly attached to the model aircraft during flight. Model rockets may be flown in
accordance with the National Model Rocketry Safety Code; however, they may not be launched from model
aircraft. Officially designated AMA Air Show Teams (AST) are authorized to use devices and practices as
defined within the Air Show Advisory Committee Document.
9. I will not operate my model aircraft while under the influence of alcohol or within eight (8) hours of having
consumed alcohol.
10. I will not operate my model aircraft while using any drug which could adversely affect my ability to safely
control my model aircraft.
11. Children under six (6) years old are only allowed on a flightline or in a flight area as a pilot or while under
flight instruction.
12. When and where required by rule, helmets must be properly worn and fastened. They must be OSHA,
DOT, ANSI, SNELL or NOCSAE approved or comply with comparable standards.
RADIO CONTROL
1. All model flying shall be conducted in a manner to avoid over flight of unprotected people.
2. I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground-range check before the first flight of a new or
repaired model aircraft.
3. I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of spectators until I become a proficient flier, unless I am
assisted by an experienced pilot.
4. At all flying sites a safety line or lines must be established, in front of which all flying takes place. Only
personnel associated with flying the model aircraft are allowed at or in front of the safety line. In the case of
airshows or demonstrations a straight safety line must be established. An area away from the safety line must
be maintained for spectators. Intentional flying behind the safety line is prohibited.
5. I will operate my model aircraft using only radio-control frequencies currently allowed by the Federal
Communications Commission (FCC). Only individuals properly licensed by the FCC are authorized to operate
equipment on Amateur Band frequencies.
6. I will not knowingly operate my model aircraft within three (3) miles of any preexisting flying site without a
frequency-management agreement. A frequency-management agreement may be an allocation of
frequencies for each site, a day-use agreement between sites, or testing which determines that no
interference exists. A frequency-management agreement may exist between two or more AMA chartered
clubs, AMA clubs and individual AMA members, or individual AMA members. Frequency-management

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agreements, including an interference test report if the agreement indicates no interference exists, will be
signed by all parties and copies provided to AMA Headquarters.
7. With the exception of events flown under official AMA Competition Regulations rules, excluding takeoff and
landing, no powered model may be flown outdoors closer than 25 feet to any individual, except for the pilot
and the pilot's helper(s) located at the flightline.
8. Under no circumstances may a pilot or other person touch a model aircraft in flight while it is still under
power, except to divert it from striking an individual.
9. Radio-controlled night flying is limited to low-performance model aircraft (less than 100 mph). The model
aircraft must be equipped with a lighting system which clearly defines the aircraft's attitude and direction at all
times.
10. The operator of a radio-controlled model aircraft shall control it during the entire flight, maintaining visual
contact without enhancement other than by corrective lenses that are prescribed for the pilot. No model
aircraft shall be equipped with devices which allow it to be flown to a selected location which is beyond the
visual range of the pilot.
(The sections dealing with Free Flight and Control Line model aircraft have been omitted.)