Penbits Pk002 User manual

ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

PK002

SPRUNG BOGIE KIT

BACHMANN

CLASS 47

PenBits Model Railways

www.penbits.co.uk

c/o 12 Fieldside, Long Wittenham, ABINGDON, Oxon, OX14 4QB

Table of Contents

General Notes

A Few Words …

Safety

The Instructions

Structure

Printing

The Etches

Tags

Components are attached to the fret by

small half-etched tags. These can be cut

through using a heavy craft knife with an

old, stubby, blade (avoid the thin, pointed,

'scalpel' types, as they will break), against

a hard surface. We keep a rigid Stanley

knife expressly for this purpose, with an old

carpet trimming blade ground to shape as

shown.

Any remnants of the tag may be cleaned up

using a flat file. We have tried to avoid

putting tags on mating faces, but there are

some instances where they need to be removed thoroughly.

Slots

General Notes 4/52

Some of the parts of our kits are designed

to fit, perpendicularly, either into or

through slots in other parts. The slots are

intended to provide a loose sliding fit for

the other part. Because of variations in the

degree of etching (q.v., below), it is

possible that the fit will be looser or tighter

than ideal.

Check the width of each slot with a

piece of scrap etch before assembly,

preferably before folding the slotted part. If the scrap will not pass through, hold it in

pliers or a hand vice, as shown (though make sure the part is well supported), and

work it through the slot until the loose sliding fit is achieved. In tight spots, it is

possible to use a small drill held in a pin chuck as a file.

Degree of Etching

The etch is created for us by a third party industrial manufacturer using a process of

chemical erosion. The 'Degree of Etching', i.e. how long the metal sheet is left in the

chemical bath, is a variable which is set by the skill and judgement of the operator as

each batch of sheets is produced. That dictates that the sizes of the etched parts on

different sheets can vary, within a certain tolerance, around the nominally designed

values. The variation is more significant with the relatively thick materials, that we use

in the main structural parts of our kits, than it is with the thinner materials typically

used for detail parts.

The ideal degree of etching is indicated by the slots (see above), as manufactured,

being just slightly on the tight side of the easy sliding fit required. The range of degree

of etching which we deem to be acceptable is from a 'lighter' etch, in which the scrap

material has to be pushed through the slot quite firmly to achieve the clearance, to a

'heavier' etch, where the fit is a little loose. We have test built our kits from etches

across this range to confirm that they may be assembled successfully.

Cusps

The chemical erosion process works equally

from each side of the metal, resulting in the

edges of the etch having shaped 'cusps' as

in the diagram here. On edges which will be

visible on the finished model, it is good

practice to file the edges of the metal flat.

Many of the edges on our kits are hidden

from view.

Where edges form joints with other

components, on a 'lighter' etch the edges may need to be filed to a flat surface to

achieve a fit, whereas with a 'heavier' etch one might leave more of the cusps in

place. In places which can't be reached by a file, e.g. in acute corners of the etch,

the cusp may be pared away with a sharp knife.

General Notes 5/52

Folds

Folds are indicated on the etches by half-

etched lines. Unless stated otherwise, all

folds are made at 90° with the half-etched

line on the inside of the fold. Most folds

may be made by holding the larger part of

the workpiece in the fingers or, for smaller

items, a hand vice or similar clamp, and

then driving the fold from the smaller part

either by using smooth-jawed pliers or by

turning it over against a smooth, flat, hard

block of material such as hardwood, metal

or tufnol. For longer folds the workpiece

may be clamped between two flat, straight

edged pieces of similar material. Special

folding tools or bending bars are not

necessary, though of course you may find

them useful if you have them.

Whichever way you make a fold, try not to force its location or direction, but let the

brass bend at its weakest point as determined by the centre of the etched fold line.

This should result in a correctly positioned and symmetric fold as shown in the

diagram.

The act of making the fold will work-harden the metal along the line of the fold and

may even, especially with a lighter etch, cause it to yield on the outer corner of the

fold. Try, therefore, not to work a fold unnecessarily once made, as it will become

increasingly brittle and prone to breakage. In general, folds are reinforced with a fillet

of solder but this is explicitly dealt with in the instructions for each component.

Soldering

We use Carrs 145° wire solder with Carrs Green Label liquid flux, except where

stated otherwise.

Flux can be applied to the workpiece using either a brush or a pointed cocktail

st ic k. It may help to reduce the surface tension of liquid flux, for example by

adding a drop of washing up liquid or ox-gall. The soldering iron bit is wiped on a damp

sponge, and then momentarily dipped in flux, before each use. A small amount of

solder is picked up on the bit and the bit applied to the workpiece, holding it there

until the solder 'flashes' into the joint; we are using relatively thick material so can

afford to linger with the iron and get plenty of heat to the job.

Flux residues should be neutralized and/or cleaned off after each working session.

Green Label flux may be rinsed away with water; a little added citric acid will

neutralize it. Liquid or paste fluxes can be washed away either with a proprietary flux

cleaner or a 50/50 mix of methylated spirits and water.

General Notes 6/52

Warranties

The procedures described in our instructions require the proprietary locomotive to be

dismantled and some of its components to be modified. The manufacturer's warranty

will almost certainly be rendered void by carrying out the modifications. The user

should ensure that the locomotive is free running and has no warranty issues before

commencing work.

Please follow the manufacturer's instructions for the dismantling of the locomotive.

Our instructions guide you in making modifications to components of the locomotive

and fitting the kit. The modifications, the kit and the instructions have been tested by

the kit designer and others to confirm that they are practical, serviceable and, when

used as intended, produce a working locomotive whose performance will bring much

pleasure. However, as the fitting of the kit by the user is out of our direct control, we

can make no warranty, expressed or implied, as to the performance and continued

serviceability of the locomotive following modification.

General Notes 7/52

Bearing Carriers

This stage of the assembly is fixing the subframe bearings into the bearing

carriers and folding up the carriers around the bearings. The carriers are located

on the fret in four frames, each of which folds up into a jig to help to fix the bearings

in the correct place. The carriers are a little fiddly, but worth spending time to get

right as they are one of the main functional parts of the suspension.

We find it useful to use two containers to store separately the components of

each bogie; 1kg margarine tubs are suitable. Within them we have 35mm film

cannisters, one for each axle, to keep the components for each wheelset together.

We mark the containers and cannisters to match the id marks etched on to the

subframes, bolsters and bearing carriers as explained below.

Separate the two subframe etches from

the fret. Remove any other components

contained within each subframe etch and

store them safely.

Note that one of the subframes is

marked with a small triangular dimple.

You will find that one of the bolsters, and

one set of bearing carriers, are similarly

marked. You can use the marks, through all

subsequent work, to distinguish the components of each bogie.

Take one of the twelve axle bearings and test it in one

of the subframe axle slots. It should be a free sliding fit

but if it's a bit loose don't worry. It will more likely be a little

tight in which case gently file the vertical sides of the

bearing slot - take off a little at a time equally from each

side and try to keep the two sides vertical - until the free

sliding fit is achieved for the entire depth of the slot. Now test fit the other 11

bearings in the same slot. You should find that they are all about the same size. If

there is a variation, then you may wish to individually fit the bearings to the slots. You

will then need to preserve the identity of each bearing through subsequent operations

(there are marks etched on the bearing carriers and the subframes to assist with that

- see below). But do bear in mind that, as we have no coupling rods, the accuracy of

this fit is by no means as critical as it would be if we were building a steam

locomotive. Whatever you choose to do, dress the remaining eleven bearing slots to

get the free sliding fit for each of the bearings.

Put the subframes in their containers safely to one side for now.

Test fit the axle bearings on the 2mm replacement axles. They should be a free

running fit. Remove any burrs or swarf from the front and rear faces of the

bearings.

Bearing Carrier Instructions for Six-wheel Bogies 8/52

Remove the bearing carrier frames from

the main etch. DO NOT at this stage

separate the bearing carriers from the

frames.

Note that the individual bearing

carriers each have small half-

et c hed identification marks. You can

use these in conjunction with

corresponding marks on the subframes

t o ensure that each carrier is always

mated with the same subframe slot.

Test fit the bearings in the large central

holes in the carriers. The body of the

bearing (excluding the flange) should pass

through the hole. If necessary, gently

relieve the holes with a round needle file,

working evenly around the edges, until the

bearings pass through.

The folds in the bearing carrier

frames are best made in bending

bars, or between any two trued and parallel

surfac es clamped together. Use a rigid

piece of flat material to make each bend

simultaneously along its whole length. This

will help minimise any unwanted distortion in

the fret.

Note that Fold 3 is a jig fold, made along the tags at the base of the carriers.

Bearing Carrier Instructions for Six-wheel Bogies 9/52

Make Fold 1, check that all sections of it are at

90°, and reinforce it with solder. Be sparing with

the solder; you don't really want to get any on the

carrier faces to the inside of the fold. Apply a small

amount of liquid flux to the slots on the outside of

t he fold, then get a small amount of solder on the

iron and touch it against the central slot on the

outside of the fold on each bearing carrier. You will

see the solder flash along the joint to the other

slots. Repeat for the two sections of fold on the

carrier frame.

Make Fold 2. You will need a thin, firm, flat piece

of material to drive this fold; a robust steel rule

(not a thin springy one!) works OK. If anything,

overfold beyond 90° just slightly.

Make Fold 3, to approximately 45°. Note that this

fold is along the line of the tags at the base of

each carrier, forming part of the frame assembly jig,

and is not a part of the finished carriers.

This is a view of the folded carrier

frames. Fold 3 has been made to 90°

in this case, but anything over about 45°

will do.

Bearing Carrier Instructions for Six-wheel Bogies 10/52

Stick a length of double-sided tape, large enough to take one of the carrier

frames, onto a clean, flat, heatproof working surface. Ensure the tape is firmly

smoothed down on the surface, with no air bubbles or foreign bodies trapped

underneath.

Remove the backing paper from the

tape, take it to one side and place on it

t hree of the axle bearings, flanged face

down. Place the carrier frame, inverted as

shown, over the three bearings with the

bearings passing through the three holes.

Use the backing paper to carry the three

bearings and frame on to the double sided

tape, then slide the backing paper away,

leaving the three bearings in contact with

the tape and held in position by the carrier

frame. Press the bearings firmly into place on the tape and remove the carrier frame.

Repeat for the other three carrier frames.

Using a cocktail stick, place a thin fillet of multipurpose grease around the flange

root of each bearing. This will ensure that the area is kept free of solder when the

bearings are fixed into the carriers. An alternative is to use a permanent marker: the

ink should resist the flow of solder.

Place the carrier frame, the correct

way up, over the bearings and press

down firmly the back of the frame and

carriers, above Fold 2, on to the tape,

as shown here. The unflanged end of

each bearing should protrude from the

face of its carrier by a very small amount

(not quite as much as in the sketch),

and the faces of the carriers should be

parallel with the end faces of the

bearings.

Using a cocktail stick, apply a small

amount of flux around the join between

the protruding part of each bearing and the

face of its carrier. Holding a bearing in

place with a heat insulating instrument, to

make sure it doesn't move, bring the iron

with a small amount of solder to the join

between bearing and carrier, and let the

solder flash round the joint. Repeat for the

other bearings. A small amount of solder

may appear on the bearing outer surface under the inner face of the carrier but most

of the bearing outer surface, in particular within about 0.5mm of the flange, should be

free of solder.

Bearing Carrier Instructions for Six-wheel Bogies 11/52

Remove any excess solder from the front faces of the bearings.

Free the fret from the working surface.

Weaken the bond of the double sided tape with a soak in methylated spirits and

slide a Stanley knife blade or a similar thin strip of metal under the fret and

bearings to break the bond of the tape without causing too much distortion.

Unfold Fold 3 and separate the individual bearing carrier assemblies from the frame.

Take care, as the top parts of the carriers are quite fragile at this stage: it may be

best to leave cleaning up the tags until after the folding and soldering stages below.

Taking each carrier in turn, clamp it

firmly into a vice (a hand-held vice is

ideal for this) across the ends of the

bearing with the bottom of the bearing

carrier protruding. File away any remnants

of the tag from the lower edge of the

carrier.

Working against a hard, flat surface,

make the fold to form the bottom flange

of the bearing carrier.

Then, invert the carrier in the vice so

that the carrier top is projecting. Fold in

the ears at the top of the carrier. You may

find that the ear catches against the top

flange: do not apply brute force, but adjust

Fold 2 and/or the direction of the applied

force, and you will find that it folds easily.

Folding against a block, as shown, gives a

good, tight fold.

On the inner carriers (the ones without

a hole in their back face), apply a small amount of flux (cocktail stick!) to the folds

and butt joints around the top of the carrier and flash in some solder to reinforce the

folds and form a fillet between the lower edges of the ears and the top of the carrier

body. Clean off any solder which adheres to the outer faces of the ears. Ensure the

holes in the ears remain clear of solder.

Bearing Carrier Instructions for Six-wheel Bogies 12/52

On the outer carriers, pass a piece of the 0.9mm nickel-

silver wire through the hole in the back of the carrier and

across the top, parallel to the line of the axle. With a small

amount of flux, solder the wire in place, at the same time

reinforcing the folds and butt joints around the top of the

carrier. Keep the bearing clamped in the vice while soldering;

this will act as a heat sink and prevent melting of the joint

between the bearing and carrier.

We hold the 0.9mm wire in the correct

alignment with the bearing as shown

here. Clamp the wire horizontally in the

'helping hands' at a distance above the

bench that allows the hand vice, holding

t h e bearing, also to rest on the bench.

Using one hand to steady the vice, the

other is free to wield the soldering iron.

Snip off the wire, close to the bearing,

when done, and it's ready for the next one.

Trim the wire and finish it flush to the front and back of the bearing with a file.

Clean off any solder which adheres to the outer faces of the ears. Ensure the

holes in the ears remain clear of solder.

Taking each subframe etch in turn, check that the carrier

assemblies can slide freely in their respective subframe slots

(see the next paragraph for a solution to bearing misalignment). It

is as well at this point to associate each bearing assembly with a

s lo t according to the markings on the bearing carriers and

subframes, whether or not you have individually matched the

bearings with slots. File away any burrs from the outer edges of

the carrier tops. The fit along the line of the axle, i.e. of the

subframe plate between the bearing flange on one side and the inner facing edges of

the carrier on the other, should be quite loose to accommodate tilting of the axle.

Check that all traces of the tag are removed from the edge of the bottom face of the

carrier, as otherwise it can bind with the lower edge of the subframe slot.

Although the aim is to have the

bearing flange parallel with the front

face of the carrier, a certain amount of

misalignment can be tolerated. If, however,

you find that the subframe side is 'pinched'

between the two, then an individual carrier

assembly can be corrected by clamping the

back of the top of the carrier against a flat

working surface. The soldering iron can

then be applied to the bearing to melt the

joint between bearing and carrier and allow

the back of the bearing to be held down

against the same surface. This should set the correct alignment.

Bearing Carrier Instructions for Six-wheel Bogies 13/52

That completes the bearing carrier assemblies. To finish off, clean them up to

remove any flux residues, and put the carriers and subframes safely away in their

respective containers.

Bearing Carrier Instructions for Six-wheel Bogies 14/52

Subframes

This section describes the construction of one of the two bogie subframes.

Main frames

Make the two main longitudinal folds,

each of which is in three parts carried

over the transom sections under each axle

slot. Ensure they are at a true right angle

and reinforce them with a fillet of solder.

Take care to ensure that the region

immediately around the subframe bearing

slots, for at least about 1mm around the

edges of the slots, is kept free of solder.

Spring Seats

Remove the four spring seats from the etch. There are two of each hand for each

bogie.

Make folds 1, 2 and 3 in each spring seat as shown. DO NOT

make the fourth fold (on the reverse side of the spring seat

etch) at this stage.

From inside the subframes, fit each spring seat

through the slots in the side of the subframe

between the centre and outer axle slots. The back of

the spring seat should come up flush to the inside face

of the subframe side. Solder each spring seat in place,

ensuring that the slots for the springs themselves

remain free of solder. Make sure that the seats are as

far down in the mainframe slots as they will go. Check

that they are all at the same height by inverting the

subframes and resting the tops of the spring seats

against a flat surface.

Bachmann Class 47 Subframes 15/52

End Stretchers

There are two alternative sets of end stretchers. For kit PK001, use the

stretchers from etch F004. For kit PK002, which has the etched brake gear

components, use the stretchers from etch F003.

F004 Stretchers

F003 Stretchers

Bachmann Class 47 Subframes 16/52

Remove the stretcher etches from the fret and clean up. Choose the correct types

of stretcher depending on whether or not you wish to retain Bachmann's coupling

pocket.

Fold up the stretchers as shown. For the F004 type, make fold 1 first and run some

solder along it. Then start fold 3, bending to 45 degrees or so. Finally, working with

face B against a hard flat surface and holding face A, simultaneously close up fold 3

and make fold 2. If using the NEM pocket stretchers, make the four additional folds as

shown.

Solder the stretchers in place, locating their slots over the tabs in the ends of the

subframes.

When fixing the stretchers to the subframes, it's convenient to work with the

subframes inverted and the stretchers supported on heatproof blocks of some kind,

leaving both hands free for the soldering operation.

If you wish to fit the Alex Jackson coupler mounts, ensure the holes in the mounts

are opened out to about 0.3mm before fitting them to the stretchers at the outer

ends of the bogies as shown.

Undertray and End Plates

Remove the two undertray plates from the fret. Make the folds at each end of

each plate, to about 80° rather than a full right-angle.

Fit the plates into the subframes, noting that the lugs on the sides of the plates

engage in the recesses in the lower edges of the subframe, and solder the joints

between the two.

Bachmann Class 47 Subframes 17/52

Fit the end plates across the subframe ends; support them against a block and

solder in place from the inside.

Bachmann Class 47 Subframes 18/52

Class 47 Bogie Bolster

These instructions describe the assembly of one of the two bogie bolsters. Note

that the photographs show a bolster of similar construction but with slight

differences in shape.

Remove the bolster centre etch from

the fret, taking care not to distort the

'legs' of the etch.

The hole in the centre of the bolster is sized to take a 10BA screw. To use the

2mm pivot screw supplied in the kit, open out the hole to 2.0mm. Make sure the

hole is clean and thoroughly deburred.

Open out the holes using tapered broaches to ensure that centres are preserved.

Deburr the holes using a larger drill.

Make the two folds in the etch

Class 47 Bogie Bolster 19/52

Remove the two Upper Stiffener etches

from the fret and fit them into place.

Clean up the faces of one of the 2mm brass

nuts to remove any machine oil and grease

and prepare for soldering. Take one of the

full-depth 2mm washers from the fret and

thread it on to one of the 2mm screws.

Apply some grease to the washer and the

top few threads of the screw. From the

outside, pass the screw through the central

hole in the top of the bolster frame and

thread on the nut. Screw the nut into place

between the upper stiffeners and tighten

up. Check that the nut is central between the stiffeners and flat to the face of the

bolster top. Run generous fillets of solder around the nut and the Upper Stiffeners.

Remove the screw from the nut (it should have been prevented from being

soldered in place by the grease).

Remove the two bolster side etches

from the fret.

Fold up the traction ears as

shown. Note that Fold 3 is 180°

with the etched slot on the outside of

the fold. Make fold 1 first, then start

fold 3. Finally, gripping surface A with

pliers and supporting the main part of

the fret on a hard, flat surface, make

fold 2 and complete fold 3. Don't

apply any solder to these folds just

yet.

Class 47 Bogie Bolster 20/52

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