Pergola Depot Big Kahuna PLUS User manual

Assembly Instructions
Big Kahuna™ PLUS Covered Pergola Kit - Attached
Thank you for purchasing a do-it-yourself pergola kit from Pergola Depot!
Please carefully read these instructions entirely before beginning to familiarize yourself with the
whole process.In addition to these instructions, we have a variety of information and resources
available on our website under the Resources menu, including How to Measure for a Pergola
and Installation Information (including videos for some of the important steps in the installation
process).
Contact us if you have questions or need help!
Call: 1-877-563-0002
Email: [e-mail]
Visit: https://pergoladepot.com/
The Team at Pergola Depot

Assembly Instructions – Big Kahuna™ PLUS Covered Pergola Kit – 877-563-0002 – www.pergoladepot.com
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Tools and Supplies Needed
o Helpers - at least 2 recommended, especially for larger kits
o Tape measure (2 better), hammer, level, leveling string and stakes, sawhorses (2) or
substitute, clamp, and a few pieces of scrap wood for propping up beams for post
location (size and quantity depending upon rafter length and slope of installation
location)
o Spray paint, chalk, flags or other materials for marking post locations
o Ladder (tall enough to work the top of your pergola during assembly)
o Screw gun, power drill (min. 18V fully charged cordless) and power saw (skill saw min.
7 ½”blade) and hand saw
o Socket attachments, wrenches, drill bits:
o Supplied with Kit: Two star-drive bits (T25, T27) for 3” and 6” screws and one
nut driver bit (5/16”) for roofing screws
o 3/4” socket or open-end wrench for bolts
o 9/16” socket for angle brace lags – drill attachment preferred
o 1/4” drill bit for pre-drilling post at angle brace attachment
o 1/2” drill bit for pre-drilling angle brace to beam and rafter attachments
o 5/8” drill bit for installing rebar into post (if posts going into new concrete
foundations)
o For all kits using post bases on concrete: 5/8” masonry drill bit; and 15/16” socket
o For new footings: post hole digger, dry concrete mix, gravel, trowel, shovel and
mixing bin or wheelbarrow and concrete footing form tubes
o For Pressure Treated Pine kits using post bases on concrete: 5/32" masonry drill bit,
and #2 Philips bit or #2 Philips screwdriver
Kit Components

Assembly Instructions – Big Kahuna™ PLUS Covered Pergola Kit – 877-563-0002 – www.pergoladepot.com
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Reference the packing list that was provided with your shipment confirmation for a complete list
of kit components, including the piece count for each type of lumber and hardware pack
components. Here is a summary of the kit components:
o 2x8 Beams (2 for standard size kits)
o 2x8 Notched Rafters (# depends upon kit size)
o 6x6 Notched Posts (2 for standard size kits)
o 4x6 Angle Braces (4 for standard size kits) – 2 shorter (post to beam), 2 longer (post to
rafter)
o 2x2 Top Slats (# depends upon kit size)
o Metal Roofing Panels (# depends upon kit size)
o Hardware Pack (box) – see Pack List for detailed contents
o Post base mounting hardware if purchased (2 for standard sizes kits) and Tapcons (for
PT pine kits only) – for slab or footer post mounting
o Optional: post base trim
Instructions
For installations on top of new footings, allow the concrete to dry before completing the rest of
the pergola installation. This may require that you dig holes and pour footings a few days or
more prior to assembling the pergola depending upon the concrete used and climate.
Additional instructions are provided below.
For installations on top of new or existing concrete foundations, we supply post bases, anchors
and Tapcons as part of your kit if purchased with the option to be installed “on a concrete slab
or footer”.These materials can also be purchased as accessories from us or from your local
hardware store. Instructions for post base installation are provided below, and we have a video
on the Installation Information page on our website.
Please wait for the wood to dry completely before painting or staining a pressure treated
pine kit, which may take several months or more depending upon climate and weather
conditions.

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Step by Step:
• Step 1 – Move all parts close to where you will be installing the pergola for easy access
during assembly.
• Step 2 – Place the ledger board against the wall exactly where it will be installed but
laying on the ground (with the x’s facing up) and make a pencil mark on the wall at each
end of the board. Once assembled, the ledger board will be installed higher than the
beams to create slope for water drainage. The height of the ledger board, and clearance
needed for the roofing structure will depend upon the beam side above ground post
height, rafter length and slope of existing ground surface as described below.
• Step 3 – Place beams on the ground (with the x’s facing up) parallel to the ledger board
and approximately a rafter length away from the wall as shown in the picture below.
• Step 4 - Slide two rafters over the two X marks on the beams just outside where “post” is
labeled on top of the beams – these are the second X marks in from the outside tips of
the beams, marked like this:IXI and resting on the same mark on the ledger board with
the flat end of the rafters against the wall.Have helpers lift the rafters and leger board to
allow the rafters to sit squarely over the beams (see table below for post and beam
height differential assuming level assembly surface) while remaining squarely against the
wall, then use blocks of wood to hold.You may also have to move the beams around a
little to get the rafters into place. Using 6” screws provided, temporarily screw each rafter
through the predrilled holes into the beams. Screw them in just enough to hold the rafter
in place.
• Step 5 – To ensure the assembly is square, hook one end of a tape measure on the
outside tip of the rafters and pull the tape to the opposite corner. Write down the
measurement. Then repeat for the opposite corner like this. This is easier if you and your
helper both have a tape measure and pull them across at the same time.

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Move the beams from side to side until you have the same measurement both ways.
When you have the same measurement, it is perfectly square. Once square, make sure
the assembly does not move.
• Step 6 – To identify the location for each post hole or post base, look at the top of the
beams just inside the rafter where “post” is written with two lines on either side, like this:
IpostI. Ensuring the assembly does not move, use spray paint, chalk, flags or other
material to mark the ground or concrete surface at the center of the lines around the
words post and the mid-point between the two boards making up the beam assembly.
Unscrew and remove the rafters from the beams and move all the boards to the side.
Now you should be left with four marks where the post holes or post bases will be
located.
• Step 7 – If mounting posts using post bases on top of new footings, please ensure
adequate clearance for the ledger board and pergola roofing structure at the wall side.
The top of the ledger board when installed will need to be higher than the top of the
post and beam assembly as described in the step below.
When ready, dig holes with the center of the hole where marked, minimum 2’4” deep
(depending on the depth desired for frost line etc. – see our website under
Resources>Pergola Post Guide) and min. 16” diameter. Use concrete footing form tubes
and leveling line to ensure the top of each footing is level with each other and ground
level at the wall.Adjust footing if needed to accommodate ledger height requirements.
Pour in gravel to fill the first 4” of each post hole. Mix the concrete according to the
directions for the concrete purchased and fill the hole to about two-thirds of the way to
the top. Use a shovel or piece of rebar to eliminate air bubbles. Insert one piece of 18”
rebar supplied with the kit into the wet concrete so that it sits diagonally from the bottom
of one side of the hole toward the top of the other side. Pour in more concrete to cover
the rebar and until the concrete is level with the top of the form tubes. Work the top
portion of concrete to eliminate bubbles and smooth the top with a trowel or shovel.
Repeat for each footing. Allow concrete to dry completely, which will depend upon the
concrete used and weather conditions.
• Step 8 – This section will provide information and instructions of securing the posts to the
ground and achieving the proper roofing slope, (1) using post bases on top of newly
poured footings, (2) burying the posts into newly poured footings, or (3) using post bases
on top of an existing concrete surface (slab or footing).
To achieve the proper roofing slope, you will adjust the height of the ledger board and/
or the above grade post (and beam assembly) height by trimming the length of the posts
provided, by burying the posts to the appropriate depths, or a combination of the two.
For standard orders we provide posts in lengths of either 8’, 10’ or 12’ based upon your
specifications at the time of order.
! For orders specifying post base mounting on top of new footings or existing
concrete surfaces, we supply two posts at 8’ or 10’ (based upon your low side
preference).

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! For orders specifying buried posts (posts installed into concrete foundations), we
supply two posts at lengths of 12’.
All standard kits are designed for a slope of ½”for every 12” of total rafter length, making
the height difference between the post and beam assembly and the ledger board
greater for longer rafter lengths, as follows:
Rafter Length
Post to Ledger Height
Differential (1)
8 feet
2 ½inches
9 feet
3 inches
10 feet
3 ½inches
11 feet
4 inches
12 feet
4 ½inches
13 feet
5 inches
14 feet
5 ½inches
15 feet
6 inches
16 feet
6 ½inches
17 feet
7 inches
18 feet
7 ½inches
19 feet
8 inches
20 feet
8 ½inches
(1) Post to ledger board height differential measured from the wall to the outside of the
posts.
Mounting Posts on New Footings
When mounting posts using post bases on top of new footings, the tops of the footings
are assumed to be level with the ground at the wall where the ledger will be installed
(per instructions above). Check using a leveling string and level, measure the height
differential between the two points, and adjust for that difference as described for an
existing concrete surface below.With level footings, the top of the ledger board will be
equal to the desired post height plus the post to ledger board height differential from
the table above.
For example: Assume pergola size is 12x16 (12’ rafter length), desired 8’ post
height, two 8’ posts supplied, and tops of footers are level with the ground at the
wall.
Post to ledger board height differential required = 4 ½”(for 12’ rafters per table).
Ledger board height requirement = 8’ or 96” (post length) + 4 ½”= 100 ½”to top
of ledger board.
The ledger board will be installed (per later step) so the top is 100 ½”up from
ground level.
For this example, there is no trimming of the posts.See below for desired 9’ post
height example.
Mounting Posts on Existing Concrete Surface
When mounting posts on top of an existing concrete surface (pre-existing slab or
footings), you must account for any existing slope: using a leveling string and level,

Assembly Instructions – Big Kahuna™ PLUS Covered Pergola Kit – 877-563-0002 – www.pergoladepot.com
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measure the height differential between the outside post location and ground level at the
wall, then adjust for that difference to the required post height differential from the table
above.
For example: Assume pergola size is 18x20 (18’ rafter length), desired 9’ above
ground post height, two 10’ posts supplied, and 2” of height differential for slope
of existing concrete surface (ground surface is 2” lower at the post side).
Post to ledger board height differential required = 7 ½”(for 18’ rafters per table)
minus 2” (for existing slope) = 5 ½”. Ledger board height requirement = 9’ or
108” (desired post length) + 5 ½”= 113 ½”to top of ledger board.
Place 10’ posts on sawhorses, measure 9’ or 108” from the top (notched end) of
the post down and mark a line toward the bottom across two opposite sides of the
posts.
Adjust measurements accordingly for different desired post height.
The ledger board will be installed (per later step) so the top is 113 ½”up from
ground level.
Double check measurements before cutting. Using a power saw, evenly trim the
bottom portion of the posts below the lines. Most saws will require cutting one
side of the posts, flip the posts to cut the other side, then finish with a hand saw for
a clean cut.
Burying Posts into Concrete Footers
When burying posts into the ground (into concrete footers), you will be able to make
smaller post height adjustments later.Measure and mark posts for the required above
ground post length, then dig the post holes to accommodate. Like existing concrete
surfaces described above, you will need to account for any existing slope using a leveling
string and level: measure the height differential between the outside post location and
ground level at the wall, then adjust for that difference to the required post height
differential from the table above.
For example: Assume pergola size 20x20 (20’ rafter length), desired 10’ above
ground post height, two 12’ posts supplied, 4” of height differential for slope of
existing ground surface, and minimum post depth of 2 feet or 24 inches (varies
depending upon your situation for frost line etc.).
Post to ledger board height differential required = 8 ½”(for 20’ rafters per table)
minus 4” (for existing slope) = 4 ½”.Above ground post height = 10’ (or 120”).
Ledger board height requirement = 10’ (or 120”) + 4 ½”= 124 ½”to top of ledger
board.
Place posts on sawhorses, measure 120” from top (notched end) down and mark a
line toward the bottom across two opposite sides of the posts – at approximately
2’ or 24” from the bottom of the post.
Adjust measurements accordingly for different desired post height.
The ledger board will be installed (per later step) so the top is 124 ½”up from
ground level.
For this example, there is no trimming of the posts. For lower desired post height,
dig deeper holes or trim posts accordingly to accommodate.

Assembly Instructions – Big Kahuna™ PLUS Covered Pergola Kit – 877-563-0002 – www.pergoladepot.com
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For posts being installed into concrete footings, we recommend inserting one
piece of supplied 10” rebar into the bottom of each post. Locate and mark a spot
at the center of each post approximately 10” below ground level. Using a 5/8"
drill bit, drill a hole through the post at the desired mark on each post. Note that
the rebar will be inserted in a later step.
Double check measurements before digging or trimming posts.
Dig post holes to a depth of 28” (24” plus 4” for gravel layer at the bottom of the
hole) and min. 12” diameter.Pour in gravel to fill the first 4” of each post hole.
Test correct depth by inserting posts into the holes.The marked lines should be
level with the tops of the holes and ground surface. Adjust hole depth as needed
by adding or removing material from the holes.
• Step 9 - If installing using post bases on top of an existing concrete foundation or
previously poured footings, the concrete must be dry before installing post bases. Place
the bases on the concrete in the exact position where they will be installed at your marks
from an earlier step. Measure the distance between the center of the post bases and from
the wall to center of the post bases to ensure they match the prescribed distances for
your size pergola. The center post to post measurement (for standard sizes) is 3’6” less
than the overall beam length, and the wall to center post measurement is 1’9” less than
the rafter length. For example, a 10x12 (rafter x beam) pergola has a center post to post
measurement of 8’6” (12’ beam minus 3’6”) and a wall to center post measurement of
8’3” (10’ rafter minus 1’9”). Once post base placement is confirmed, mark the concrete at
the center of the hole at the bottom of each base.
Remove the bases and drill into the concrete at each marked point with a 5/8” concrete
drill bit to a depth of at least 4”. Clear excess debris from the hole. Place the washer and
nut on the concrete anchor, place the flared end of the anchor through the post base and
into the hole in the concrete.Hammer the anchor down into the hole in the concrete
until it is against the post base, but do not tighten. Repeat for each base.
Before tightening the anchor to the post base, turn the post bases so that the side walls
(vertical pieces of the bases) are parallel with the direction of the rafters (once installed).
This will allow for small adjustments in the placement of the post in the base on the rafter
dimension of the structure. Then, square each base to the outside edge of the pergola
footprint. To square bases, lay one of the beams or rafters (depending upon length
needed) on the ground directly outside two of the post bases, then rotate the post bases
until the outside edges of each base are touching and square with the board and the side
walls are parallel with the rafters.Repeat this for the other bases. Tighten each anchor
with a 3/4" socket or wrench until snug to the base.
• Step 10 - Lay the posts on the ground, with the bottoms at the edge of each hole or post
base, the tops (notched end) facing away from the wall, and notched end up and down
so that pre-drilled holes are visible.
• Step 11 - If installing post base trim, slide trim over the bottom of each post and up the
post so it will be out of the way for the next couple steps. For posts being installed into
the ground (into concrete footings), insert the rebar through the hole at the bottom of
each post. Use a hammer to move the rebar through the hole until there are
approximately equal lengths of rebar on either side of the post.

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• Step 12 - Lay one beam down on the ground near the top of the posts. Slide the posts
up and onto the beam between the lines on the beam where it says “post”. Set the other
beam on top sandwiching the post in between the two beams.
• Step 13 - Place 1 washer on each ½”x 8” bolt. Lift the beam assembly enough to fit the
bolts between the ground and the beam and insert the bolts into the holes from the
bottom. You may want to place a block of wood on the ground under the bolt, so you can
push the beam down to get the bolt to come up through the hole. Place a washer and
nut on each of the bolts and make them snug but do not tighten them down yet. Now
you should have this:
• Step 14 - With one person at each post, tilt assembly up, lift and drop the posts into the
postholes, or into the post bases if on concrete. Have your helper(s) hold the assembly
plumb.
If posts are going into footers, check to ensure the ground lines marked toward the
bottom of the posts are level with the tops of the holes. Adjust the hole depth until lines
are level with the top of the ground.Once lines are at ground level, fill the holes around
the posts with dry concrete. Do not water in the concrete yet.
Check for level across the top of beam assembly and on the sides of the posts. If
needed, adjust the amount of dry concrete under the posts by lifting-up the low post and
allowing a small amount of dry concrete to fill in underneath.If installing with post bases
you may need to use a shim under one of the posts.
If installing with post bases, have your helper continue to hold the assembly or prop the
assembly up (using 2x4’s for example) so that it does not fall.
• Step 15 – Level up from the marks you made on the wall earlier so that the top of the
ledger board is equal to the height calculated in the step above (taking into account the
desired post height, adjusted for the height differential from the table and slope of

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existing ground as required).Holding the ledger board in place exactly where it will be
installed, ensuring that the board is level, mark with a pencil through the pre-drilled holes
in the ledger board.
If installing on a concrete wall, using a 5/8" masonry drill bit, pre-drill holes in the
masonry wall to a depth of at least 4 1/2". Clear excess debris from the holes. Having
your helper hold the ledger board in place, insert the 5/8” anchor bolts supplied with the
kit, hammer them into the wall and tighten with a 15/16” wrench. Hint: drill the two outer
holes first, secure the ledger board with two anchors, and then drill the rest of the holes.
If installing on a wood frame wall, locate the studs behind the framing or the top
mounting plate above a window or door, and mark where the holes will be drilled. For
wood frame walls, we do not pre-drill the ledger board so that you can match the holes in
the ledger to the stud locations. If the top of the ledger board does not match the
calculations made in the earlier step, you will need to adjust the above ground height of
the posts accordingly to achieve the required roofing slope. Once you have identified
and marked where the ledger will be attached, using a 1/2" drill bit, pre-drill holes to a
depth of at least 4 1/2", insert the 1/2" lag screws provided with the kit through the
ledger board and tighten with a 3/4" wrench.
The ledger should now look like this:
• Step 16 – [Restart here] Move the stepladder in between the beam assembly and
wall/ ledger board. Position one of the rafters with the end cut pointing away from the
wall. Slide the rafter onto the same X marks on the beams as you did on the ground in
an earlier step (the second X marks in from the outside tips of the beam), leaving the
outermost set of rafters for a later step after the angle braces have been installed. The
notch on the rafter should slide over the beam and rest on the ledger board to fit
squarely with a slight slope away from the wall. Adjust the position of the posts if
needed to allow the rafters to slide on and fit squarely, and so that the posts are
plumb.If more significantly out of alignment, you may need to further adjust post