Pfaff 130-6 User manual

4VN

Insfrucion
book
for
the
PFAFF
Sewing
Machine
(Model
130)
For
best
results,
study
these
instructions
carefully-par-
ticularly
those
parts
on
the
care
of
the
machine.
Before
leaving
the
factory
your
PFAFF
was
adjusted,
carefully
tested,
and
found
to
be
perfect
in
every
respect.
If
you
follow
the
simple
suggestions
outlined
here,
you
will
enjoy
your
PFAFF...
find
it
endlessly
useful..,
and,
through-out
the
years
be
glad
that
your
choice
is
the
finest
sewing
machine
in the
world.
I. Useful
hins
to
help
you
get
the
best
results
with
your
PFAFF
Use
fine thread
and
a
fine
needle
adjusted
for
loose
tension
when
sewing
thin,
light
fabrics.
For
ordinary
lock
stitch
or
zigzag
seams,
regulate
the
tension
so
that
the
interlacing
of
upper
and
under
threads
takes place
in
the
center
of
the
stitching.
For
making
buttonholes,
stitching
on
buttons,
eyeletting
rolling
seams,
and
hemstitching, the
tension
of
the under
thread
should be
somewhat
tight,
since
it
is
desirable
to
have
the
threads
interlock
more
toward
the
underside
of
the
fabric.
Use
unglazed
thread
for
ordinary
sewing, and
soft
yarn
for
embroidering,
darning,
etc.
Since
these
yarns
are smoother
and more
flexible
than
the
hard
and
brittle
glazed cotton,
they
assure
well-drawn-in
stitches,
thus
protecting
the
seams
when
the
fabric
is washed.
Skipping
of
stitches
may
be
caused
by:
1.
Needle
not
having
been
inserted
properly.
2.
Using
other
than
the recommended
PFAFF
Needles.
3.
Needle being
bent
by
wrong
handling,
or
too
fine
for
the
thread
used.

Thread
breaking
may be
caused by;
1.
Any
of
the
three
reasons
mentioned above.
2. Tension
too
tight.
3. Using
bad
or
knotty
thread.
Bad
stitches
may
be
caused as
a result
of;
1. Tensions
being
too
loose
or too
tight.
Both
tensions
should
be
equal.
2.
Using
needles
and threads
that
do
not
conform
to
the
thickness
of
the
fabric.
Top
and
bottom
thread
should
be
the
same.
3.
Fluff
having
accumulated
between
the
upper
tension
discs,
or underneath
the tension
spring
of
the
bobbin
case.
Heavy
working
of
the
machine
may
be
caused
by:
1.
The
motor
belt
having
become
too
loose
after
con-
stant
use,
therefore, not
pulling
properly.
In that
case, the
motor
bracket
has
to be
adjusted.
2. The
motor
belt
being
too
tight.
Do
not
over-tighten
it.
3. The
shuttle
race being
obstructed
by
fluff,
which
must
be removed.
4. The
machine
having
become
clogged.
Note
the
fol-
lowing
instructions
for
proper
oiling
and
cleaning.
II.
To
oil
and
clean
the
machine
Apply
rust-proof
grease
on
all
nickel-plated
and
polished
parts.
This
done, all
greased
parts
should
be
cleaned
with
a
clean
rag.
Then,
apply
a
little
PFAFF-Sew-
ing
Machine
Oil
at
the
oiling
points marked
with
arrows
in Figures
1, 2,
and
3.
2

Fig. 1

Fig. 2
L4

Fig. 3

After
raising
the presser
foot,
run the
machine
for a
little
while without
thread,
wipe
off the
down-dripping
oil and
apply
a drop
of PFAFF
Sewing
Machine
Oil to
all
points
where there
is friction.
Make
it a
rule to
clean
and oil
the machine
from
time
to time,
especially
when
it has been
in constant
use, or
has not been
used
for a long
time.
VERY IMPORTANT:
Before
using
the machine
for
the
first
time,
apply
to the hook
a drop
of PFAFF
Sewing
Machine Oil.
Keep
the oil
can clean.
The
needle
plate
should
be taken
off frequently
and
cleaned of
accumulated
fluff on the
underside.
III. The
needle
If the needle
is
inserted
incorrectly,
the top
thread
will
jam in
the hook,
and tear.
The correct
way
to install
the
needle
is with the
flat of
the shank
toward
the hand
lift.
In
general,
follow
this
simple
rule:
Use
a finer
needle
for
finer
thread
and
a heavier
needle
for
heavier
thread.
IV.
Feeding
If the
material
does
not feed
(move),
turn presser
bar
pressure
screw
to the
right to
increase
the pressure.
There
should
be as
little pressure
as possible
on the
presser
bar-use
just enough
to
feed the
material.
Too
much pressure
causes
excessive
wear
in feeder
and
foot.
When
in
doubt, call
in qualified
PFAFF
mechanic.
IMPORTANT-When
inserting
a
new
needle,
make
sure
that
the needle
thumb
screw
is loose
enough
to
permit
you to
slide the
needle
all the
way
up to the
stop
pin,
then tighten
the
thumb screw.
If the
needle
is not inserted
in this
way,
it will cause
SKIPPING
of stitches,
and
pos-
sible needle
breakage.
6

1.
Threading
Ale
needle
Put spool
on spindle,
draw
through
hook
guide
1,
around
circular
guide
2, around
the
tension
discs
3, and
through
check
spring
4,
around
guides
5 and
6,
and into
the
lower
hole
of
the
take-up
7
down
through
thread
guide
8 into
guide
above
the
needle
9-and
thread
needle
from
front
to back. (Fig. 4).
2.
To "t
the
nedie
LOOSEN
lock screw
above
needle
clamp.
Insert
needle
with
flat
shank
to back,
tighten
lock
screw-and
you're
ready
to sew.
3. To
remove
bobbin
case
(Fig.
5)
Turn
the
machine
back
on
its
hinges.
Open
latch
in
bobbin
case by
grasping
latch
between
thumb
and
fore-
finger
(it
is easier
with
the
left
hand)-and
pull.
The
bobbin
case
comes
right
out.
To
remove the
bobbin,
release
latch
again
and
the
bobbin
will
drop right
out.
Practice
a few
times,
so
as to
get
used
to this
operation.
4.
To
wind
the
bobbin
(Fig.
6)
For
beginners
it
is
suggested
that
the
balance
wheel
be
disconnected
so
that
the machine
will
not
turn.
For
experienced
operators,
the balance wheel
can
remain
connected
if
desired
so
that
a
bobbin
can
be
wound
while
sewing
on
a
garment.
Wind thread
around
the
bobbin
a couple
of times
away
from
you.
Place
bobbin
on winder
spindle
so that
the
single
slot
fits
into
the
pin
in the
side
of
the winder
spindle.
Place
spool
of thread
I on
either
spool
holder
(1).
Draw
thread down
between
tension
disc
2 to
the
bobbin
placed
on
winder
spindle
3.
Press
down
on
winder
catch
4 to
lock
bobbin
in
winding
position.
Now
you
are
ready
to
wind
bobbin.
Turn
on power
until bobbin
is
wound.
If
you
do not
wish
to wind
the
bobbin
to capacity,
press
winder
disconnect
lever
5.
When
bobbin
is
full,
release
is
automatic.
7

V
Fig. 4
Bt
6 I

Fig. 5
9

Fig. 6
10

5.
To
replace
bobbln
caseo (Fig.
7)
Slip bobbin into bobbin case,
and draw the thread
through
the
bobbin
case
slot 1,
away from
you, under
tension
spring
2.
Turn
machine
back
on
its
hinges
expos-
ing base
for bobbin
case.
With bobbin
case
latch
opened,
between
thumb
and forefinger,
slip
bobbin
into center
hook and
drop latch back.
Push down
bobbin case
with
thumb to make sure that case is lacked
in position.
Fig. 7
6. To commence Sewing
IMPORTANT-Turn
wheel towards you to pickup bobbin
thread.
Allow needle to descend and rise once. The under
thread
then appears in the form of a loop out of
the
needle hole.
Then lower presser foot
by means of presser foot
lever. Draw both
upper and lower thread ends under
the presser fot and to the rear.
1t

To
protect
presser
foot
and
feed,
never
operate
machine
without
placing
fabric
under
the
presser
foot.
With
the
cloth
inserted
and
the
presser
foot
lowerec(
turn
the
balance
wheel
toward
you.
At
the
some
time,
give
a
slight
pressure
with
your
knee
against
the
knee
control-or
against
the
foot
control
on
some
portable
models.
7.
To
remno
the
work
Stop the
machine.
Turn
the
balance wheel
toward
you
until
the
take-up
(see
section
on
threading
the needle)
is
at
its
highest
point.
(Or
turn
the
wheel
to
complete
the
stitch.)
Raise
presser
foot.
(On
lifting
the
presser
foot,
the
tension
is
automatically
released.)
Draw
the
cloth
to
the
rear
of
the
needle. Cut
the
thread
close
to
the
material
on the
thread cutter.
8.
To
regulate
the
tension
of
the
upper
thread
The
tension
of
the
upper
thread
is
regulated
by
means
of
tension
nut
(M),
(Fig.
4).
Turning this
screw
clockwise,
the
tension
will
become
tighter.
Unscrewing
it,
counter-
clockwise,
it
will
become
looser.
Having
adjusted
the
tension
for
a
certain
kind
of
thread,
(you
can
best
judge
this
tension
for
yourself
by
pulling
the
thread
gently
with
your
hand
when
you
have
threaded
the
machine
through the tension
spring),
just
glance
at
the
number
marked
in
the
bell
behind the
ten-
sion
nut,
and note
its relative
position.
If the
upper
tension
is too
loose,
the
under
thread
will
pull
down
the
upper
thread,
forming
little
knots or
loops
as
shown
in
Fig.
8.
If
the
upper
tension
is too
tight,
the
under
thread
is
drawn
up,
as
illustrated
in
Fig.
9
Fig.
10
shows
the locking
in
the
two
threads
in
the
center
of
the
material,
as
a
result
of
the
proper
adjustment
of
both
tensions.
12

Fig. 8
Fig. 9
Fig. 10
9. To regulate tension of th under thread
If the tension is too loose, take the bobbin case out of
the machine (Fig. 5), and tighten the small tension screw
(Z) in a clockwise direction with the aid of the screw
driver. If the tension is too tight, unscrew it in a counter-
clockwise
direction. (Fig. 11).
10. To regulate the length of stitch
The length of the stitches is regulated by the stitch
regulator screw. (Fig. 6). In the zero-(or neutral)- posi-
tion, there is no feeding at all. The numbers above zero
are for forward stitching; the space below for reverse
stitching.
13

z
Fig. 11
Loosen regulator screw,
and push up to desired posi-
tion from
1 to 5. Position one
is the smallest
stitch. When
you have
chosen the size
of stitch you want, tighten
the
screw. To sew
in reverse, simply push
the locked screw
downward,
below position zero.
It will automatically sew
the
some size stitch
in reverse.
11. The Dial-A-Stitch
If the nose of the Dial-A-Stitch
lever (G),
(Fig. 12), is
on point
zero of the scale, the
machine is performing the
straight stitch.
If you turn the lever,
(G), to the left,
the
,machine is doing
the zigzag stitch.
The width of the zig-
zag stitch is increased
asthe lever,
(G), is turned to the
left, bringing
the width of the
zigzag stitch up
to a
maximum of 11/64".
If lever H (Fig. 12)
is pressed against the
body of the
machine,
and then shifted
down into position II, the
ma-
chine will sew to the
right of the stitch made
in the nor-
.mal position. In
position III, it will sew
still farther to
the right, continuing the
same kind of
stitch for which the
14

dial is set.
This is useful
for applique,
fancy stitching,
straight sewing,
embroidery, buttonholes,
and sewing
on
buttons.
If the machine
is not
running, the shifting
procedure
should not be
made, or the
size of the zigzag
stitch
should not be
changed, unless
the need. is
malted. Other-
wise, the needle
might be
bent or broken.
B
Fig. 12
12. To tak. opart
and clean the
kook (Fig. 13)
If pieces of thread, lint or
dust have gotten inside the
hook, impeding the action of the machine, it is necessary
15

to
remove
the
upper
and
lower
parts
of
the
bobbin
case.
Turn
the
balance wheel
so
as
to
see
clearly
screws
EI,
E-2,
and
E-3.
Unscrew these,
and
take
off
the
hook
bow.
NOTE:
Since
these
screws
are
extremely
small,
it
is
necessary
to
use
great
care
so
as
not
to
lose
them.
Grasp
center hook
between
thumb
and
forefinger,
and
turn
the
balance
wheel
gently
until
the
lower
case
slips
out.
Clear
out
the
dirt
with
a
cloth,
and
put
a
drop
of
oil
on
the
running
surface
under
the
case.
Replace
lower
bobbin
case.
Do
not
force
it,
as
It
will
damage
the
part.
Replace
the
hook
bow,
and
screw
the
three
screws
back
Fig.
13
16

into position.
If
this is
difficult,
do not force
it-cal'for
your
mechanc.
Parts
damaged
by force
will
not be
replaced
free
of charge.
13.
To
regulafe
pressure
of
the
presser
fool
Screw
or
unscrew
the bushing
(V),
(Fig.
4),
to increase
or
decrease
pressure
of
the
presser
foot,
and
to
regulate
it for
the type
of material
used.
14.
Adjusting
the tension
of
the
thread
confroller
spring
For
embroidering
and
darning,
ease
the
tension
of
the
thread
controller
spring
a
little
more than
in the
case
of
sewing.
When
working
on
thick
or hard
materials,
the
tension should
be
tighter.
To
tighten
the
tension, turn the
lever
of
the tension
sleeve as
shown
in
Fig.
4.
a)
indicating
the position
for
darning and
embroidering;
b) indicating
the
normal
position;
c) indicating
the
position
for
sewing
thick
and hard
materials.
The
direction
for
turning
the
lever
is indicated
by
""
for loose
(light), and
"F" for
fast (tight).
15. The
needle
Make
sure
that
you
use
the
PFAFF
needles designed
for
your
mohine-Needle
Series
130 R.
These
are
finely
machined,
tempered
and
polished
steel,
and are
avail-
acle
in
sizes
Ito
11,
for
the
most
delicate
to the
heaviest
sewing.
16. To
lower
the
feed
For
darning
and
embroidering,
the
feed
can
be lowered
by
turning
the
knob
(X),
(Fig.
6),
on the
front
right-hand
side
of the
bed
plate.
Turn
it
right
to lower
the feed;
turn
it
left to
raise
the
feed.
17

NO
ATTACHMENTS
ARE
NEEDED
for
all
normal
sewing
and
most
types
of
fancy
sewing.
The
PFAFF
comes
equip-
ped with
a
hinged
presser
foot.
No.
44088
(Fig.
14),
which
is
used
for
these
purposes.
This
should
remain
on
your
machine
most
of
the
time.
To
remove
it,
loosen
the
screw,
and
lift
presser
foot
out
to
the
left.
To
replace
it,
slip
it
back
into
position,
holding
it
firmly
in
place between
the
thumb
and
forefinger
of
the
right
hand
and
tighten
the
screw.
Fig.
14
44088
44088
dard
type
of
presser
foot,
No.45037,
(Fig.
15),
is
inclu-
ded
for
those
who
prefer
to
Luse
it.
45037
45037
Fig.
15
17.
Sewing
on
bufions
(Fig.
16
and
17)
Use
foot
No.
46120
for
sewing
on
two-
or
four-hole
buttons,
for
snaps,
hooks
and
small
bone or
metal
rings.
(Fig.
18);
Lower
lever
H
of
the
Dial-A-Stitch
into
posi-
tion
III
with
dial
set
as
far
to
the
right
as
possible. Lower
the
feed,
46120
46120
Fig.
16
18

Fig.
17
Fig.
18
With
stitch
regulator
set
between 1
and
2, place
button
on
fabric,
under
button
foot,
so that
needle passes
through
center
of right
hole
of
the
button.
Then
adlust
the
zigzag
stitch
with
the
dial
so
that
the
needle
posses
through
the center
of the
left
hole
of
the
button.
To
fix
the
button
to
the
fabric,
four
or
five
double
stitches
will
do. When
stitching
on
buttons
having
four
holes,
place the
fabric
with
the
button
as
far
back
as
necessary
to permit fastening
the
second
pair
of holes,
too.
At
the
lost
stitch, leave
the
needle
at
the
right
and
adjust
the
machine
for
straight
stitches
of
which
a few
will suffice
to lock
the stitch.
19