QModeling XP Series User manual

207 Mill Valley Rd, Middleburgh, NY 12122
Phone: [phone], Fax: [phone]
Instruction Manual
XP Series
Model Raptor
Welcome to quality Model Rocketry!
Congratulations on purchasing one of QModeling's
XP Series model rockets - the XP-RAPTOR. The XP
Series is QModeling's original line of top quality
sports class model rockets. The XP-RAPTOR was
designed to leverage existing and extra parts to
produce a sleek and unique original kit. Resembling
a Nike-Ajax the XP-RAPTOR is a based on a BT-60
size main body tube tapering to a BT-55 parachute
compartment. The XP-RAPTOR is over 37 inches
tall and its slender profile and light construction
makes for spectacular high flights.
QModeling's XP-RAPTOR is a 24mm motor design
enabling the use of C, D, E, and F 24mm rocket
motors creating low an incredible high altitude
launches. It may seem a bit early to speak of
performing a count down, but with QModeling's high
quality laser cut parts and easy step-by-step
instructions your own XP-RAPTOR will be blasting to
new altitudes in no time. QModeling's engine mount,
primary fin design, and professional recovery system
not only helps to ensure correct construction for a
successful first flight, but also increases durability for
long lasting enjoyment
Before beginning assembly please take a moment to
read through the entire instruction manual and study
the different figures. It won't take long. Doing so will
make assembly easier and contribute to a successful
first flight. Remember to work slowly and follow the
instructions as shown. Check off boxes for each step
have been provided to keep track of completed steps.
.WARNING!!!
A MODEL ROCKET IS NOT A TOY, IT IS
CAPABLE OF CAUSING SERIOUS BODILY
INJURY AND PROPERTY DAMAGE. IT IS THE
BUYERS RESPONSIBILITY TO BUILD THIS KIT
CORRECTLY AND LAUNCH IT UNDER THE
NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF ROCKETRY
SAFETY CODE.
Version 4.0
Skill Level 2

Decal and Paint Scheme Renders
2
1
4
/"
White Nose Cone
White Upper Body Tube
Gray Lower Body Tube
White Secondary Fin
Gray Primary Fin
US Army Decal (2X)
Long Stripe Decal (2X)
Primary Fin Decal (3X)
Note it is a
two part decal
that overlaps
Gray Retro Rockets
(optionally paint Red)
Short Stripe Decal
CG Loaded Decal (2X) 180°
180°
Test Conn Decal (3X)
Center Decal
between stripes
Black Transition
8"
1
4
/"
1
8
/"

rLong Cotton Swab Sticks (not Q-Tips)
rCA Glue (i.e., ZAP)
rWood Glue
rSandpaper, 220-400 grit
rSanding Block
rSanding Sealer
rGloss White Enamel Spray Paint
rGloss Gray Enamel Spray Paint
rGloss Black Enamel Spray Paint
rWhite or Light Gray Primer Spray Paint
rBrain
rScissors
rHobby Knife
rPencil
rRuler
rPaint Brush
Unpack your XP-RAPTOR and check to make sure all parts are
accounted for. If parts are missing contact QModeling by
sending an e-mail to [email protected]. The (#X)
designator indicates how many of a given part there should be,
for example Primary Fins (3X) indicates there should be 3
Primary Fins. Please note any part labeled with a MF designator
is a "Make From" part. This means you will be making the part
from the material supplied, for example the Launch Lugs.
Please note the Parts Ordering form
in your kit. Use this form to order
replacement or additional parts.
Additional Items Needed
Forward
of
Rocket
Main Nose Cone
w/Eyelet
Parachute
w/Shroud Lines
Fin Bulkheads (6X)
FFD Antennas (3X)
Heat Shield
Snap Swivel
Decals
3
KevlarÒ
Shock Cord
Lower Main Body Tube
Primary Fins (3X)
Rear
of
Rocket
Forward Centering Ring
Engine Mount Tube
Fin Brace (3X)
Support Brace (3X)
Rear Centering Ring
Engine Hook
Hex Rings (4X)
Thrust Rings (2X)
Upper Main Body Tube
Transition C-Ring (3X)
Launch Lug (MF)
Secondary Fins (3X)
Transition Cone Tab
Transition Cone Wrap
(shown formed)
Parachute Compartment
C-Ring
Shock Cord Bumper
TEST CONN.
TEST CONN.
TEST CONN.
XP - C.G. LOADED
WEIGHT 4247 LBS.
XP - C.G. LOADED
WEIGHT 4247 LBS.

4
Forward versus Rear
It is imperative you understand the difference between the FORWARD and REAR ends of a rocket to fully comprehend the
instructions. The forward end is towards the Main Nose Cone and the rear end is towards the Engine Hook. Refer to the
exploded view on page 3 and note how certain parts are labeled based on their relative location to the Forward and Rear ends,
for example the Forward Centering Ring.
Assembly Tip
Read all instructions and locate all parts before beginning assembly. Find or procure all additional items. Organize a suitable
work area and layout parts and tools in front of you. Test fit all parts together during each assembly step before applying
any glue, especially when using CA. If any parts don't fit sand as needed to ensure precise assembly. Don't rush, work
methodically through each step ensuring you complete the previous step before moving onto the next step.
Working with CA Glue
Cyanoacrylate (CA) glue is both a blessing and a curse. It bonds and hardens very quickly enabling you to proceed from step-
to-step, but the fast drying time also minimizes the amount of time you have to adjust the position of parts. The key to working
with CA glue is to make sure you understand the steps and test fit all parts prior to gluing. Don't use an accelerator. Most CA
glues (i.e., ZAP) come in a variety of drying times. We recommend a mid-drying time (i.e., ZAP, Green 5-10 seconds) for
general purpose use. Be careful to avoid getting glue on your fingers and skin. Should you accidentally glue your fingers
together use nail polish remover to soften the CA. ONE FINAL NOTE, CA GIVES OFF FUMES WHICH CAN IRRITATE
EYES AND LUNGS. MAKE SURE YOU USE CAWITH ADEQUATE VENTILATION.
Assembly Attack Strategy
It is always a good idea to have an attack strategy when building a model and is one reason we stress reading the entire
manual first. The instructions are broken into four main sections - Engine Mount Assembly & Installation, Upper & Lower Main
Body Tube Assemblies, Finishing, and Final Assembly, The easiest assembly strategy is to simply start with the Engine Mount
Assembly & Installation and perform each step in sequence through all four main sections. To speed up the process during
times when glue needs to dry, other steps can be done in parallel, for example preparing the Main Nose Cone. Understanding
fully all steps could also help identify other steps that can be done in parallel. What ever your strategy is make sure you
understand the entire assembly process, check off steps, and ensure any parallel assembly doesn't effect other assembly
steps. All time estimates are based on performing the assembly one step at a time.
Weight, Weight, Weight !
Watching weight goes beyond your own belt line. Rockets shouldn’t become “Glue Bombs”. There is a tendency to think
more glue is better, it is not. Excess glue simply adds unnecessary weight and therefore decreases a rocket’s performance.
The XP line of kits have been designed to be rugged kits for Sports Class Rocketry. Yes they are not designed for the” high
performance dudes”, but are high quality kits for the “fun- fly crowd”. We encourage you to control weight and performance by
limiting the amount of glue used for fillets, applying thin coats of primer and paint, sanding and shaping fins, and sanding down
nose cones. There are thousands of great internet sites and forums to help with construction techniques, check them out!
Blowin’ in the Wind !
Upscale kits are great, but are typically more exposed to such real phenomena as “Wind Cocking”. Upscales are heavier and
depending on the thrust spike of the motor used(i.e., D12, E9, etc.) they typically have lower take off speeds. The lower take
off speed makes them more vulnerable to the wind. Proper engine sizing, flying in appropriate weather, using longer launch
rods, and respecting the NAR Safety code will help stop you from Blowin’ in the Wind. We highly recommend Harry Stine’s
book, “Handbook of Model Rocketry” to learn more about rocket flight dynamics.
Cleaning Plastic Molded Parts
We create our plastic parts using a two-part plastic modeling process that uses aluminum molds. The molds are split molds.
The halves are clamped together and a two part liquid plastic is poured into the cavity. A core is then inserted squeezing the
liquid plastic upwards between the cavity and the core. To prevent the mold cavity and core from sticking to the plastic as it
hardens “mold release” is used. The mold release can interfere with finishing paint. To properly clean the plastic parts first
wipe them down with a clean soft cloth. Apply isopropyl alcohol to a second soft clean cloth and wipe the parts thoroughly. Let
parts dry and repeat the alcohol wipe down. Finally buff parts one last time with a dry soft cloth.
It’s a Manual not a Bible!
We take pride in our manuals, but there is no way to convey years of modeling experience from a huge knowledge base of
model rocketeers. We highly suggest searching the web for building techniques, joining a forum to help answer questions,
and/or becoming a member of a club. Remember the best aspect of any hobby is sharing ideas, telling stories, and laughing
with co-hobbyist.

Engine Mount Assembly and
Installation (60-75 mins)
3. rRepeat step #2 to install the 2nd Thrust Ring.
(1) Again keep the Engine Mount Tube level or tilted
slightly back towards the forward end, us a cotton swab
stick to carefully run a bead of Wood glue around the
inside diameter of the tube just to the rear of the 1st
installed Thrust Ring. (2) Slip the 2nd Thrust Ring into
the tube and use a spent E-Size Rocket Motor or proper
sized dowel to push the ring down into the tube until it
hits the 1st installed thrust ring. DO NOT ALLOW ANY
GLUE INTO THE NO GLUE AREA AS INDICATED IN
STEP #4! 2nd Thrust Ring
Glue
Bead
Engine Hook
Slot Opening
Froward
End
Rear
End
Push
down tube
1
2
4. rFrom the forward end run a fillet of Wood glue
around the 1st ring and tube interface. Stand tube
vertically on rear end allowing the glue to dry throughly
(10-15 min) before moving onto the next step. DO NOT
ALLOW ANY GLUE INTO ENGINE HOOK SLOT OR
THE NO GLUE AREA AS INDICATED! Run a glue fillet
inside tube around
Thrust Ring
No Glue
Area
Double
Thrust Ring
No Glue in
Engine Hook Slot
2. r(1) Keeping the Engine Mount Tube level or
tilted slightly back towards the forward end, us a cotton
swab stick to carefully run a bead of Wood glue around
the inside diameter of the tube just to the rear of the
Engine Hook slot. (2) Slip one of the two Thrust Rings
into the tube and use a spent E-Size Rocket Motor or
proper sized dowel to push the ring down into the tube
until it hits the edge of the Engine Hook slot opening.
DO NOT ALLOW ANY GLUE INTO THE NO GLUE
AREA AS INDICATED IN STEP #4!
Engine Hook
Slot Opening
Forward
End
Push
down tube
2
1st Thrust Ring
Glue
Bead
Rear
End
1
5
1. rLightly sand the Engine Mount Tube end edges
(see figure) smooth using 220 grit sandpaper. Using a
pencil and a ruler mark the locations for the Engine
Hook and Rear Engine Mount Ring on the Engine
Mount Tube as shown. Also create an Engine Hook
guide line down the center of the Engine Mount Tube.
Cut a 1/8 inch wide by 1/2 inch long slot into the tube
starting at the Engine Hook location and moving forward
using a hobby knife as shown. This slot enables the
Engine Hook to be extended and retracted. By
retracting the Engine Hook the finished XP-RAPTOR
can be stood on it’s rear end.
Sand edge
smooth
Sand edge
smooth
Engine Hook 1/8" Slot
Engine Hook
guide mark
33
8
/"
1
/"
2
#2 Engine Mount
Ring mark
7/"16
1

6
5. rAlign the Engine Hook to the Engine Hook Slot
opening and put the hook in place as shown. Test the
movement of the Engine Hook in the slot by moving it
back and forth. The hook should move freely when
aligned with the Engine Hook guide mark created in
step #1. If necessary trim the slot opening with a hobby
knife until the hook moves freely. Note: the hook stops
against the forward edge of the Thrust Rings.
Align hook
to slot
Guide Mark
Place hook
into slot
Move hook
back and forth
6. rInsert one end of the Engine Hook into the slit.
Align the notch in one of the four Engine Mount Rings
with the Engine Hook and then slide ring down the
Engine Mount Tube until it touches the pencil mark
created in step #1. THIS RING IS THE SECOND AFT
RING. Please note touching the mark will recess the
Engine Mount Tube approximately 1/8” forward of the
Main Body Tube. Ensure ring is square with Engine
Mount Tube and then tack glue with CA in place at
location shown. DO NOT COMPLETELY GLUE THE
ENGINE MOUNT RING IN PLACE AT THIS TIME!
Align Ring Notch Slide Ring down
tube to marked location
Ensure Ring is square
and tack glue it here
2
2
7. rCarefully align and slip on the remaining three
Engine Mount Rings (#1, #3, and #4) as shown. The #1
ring is slipped on from the rear and the #3 and #4 rings
are slipped on from the front. Note previous installed
ring #2 in step 5 is highlighted, failure to observe this
ring as ring #2 can lead to building the Engine Mount
assembly incorrectly.. DO NOT TACK GLUE THE
RINGS AT THIS TIME!
Remaining Rings
Align Engine Hook notches
in Rings before placement Slide Rings
on carefully
2
2
33
4
4
1
1
8. rWith the Engine Mount Rings aligned
temporarily install the three Fin Braces (FB1, FB2, and
FB3) in place as shown. Note the 60°relationship
difference between the Engine Hook and the Fin
Braces. THIS RELATIONSHIP MUST BE CORRECT
TO ENSURE CORRECT FINAL ASSEMBLY AND
ALIGNMENT OF RACEWAY, LAUNCH LUG
ASSEMBLY AND TUBE WRAP DECALS. Ensure all
rings are square and then tack glue each ring to the
Engine Mount Tube in three different spots around the
tube using CA. DO NOT GLUE THE FIN BRACES AT
THIS TIME!
Tack Glue Spots
around each ring
Temporarily install
Fin Braces to align Rings
FB1
FB2
FB3 FB1
FB2
FB3
CA
GLUE
Note Hook in relation
to Fin Braces
60°

9. rRemove the Fin Braces and permanently glue
all rings to the Engine Mount Tube using Wood glue by
running a fillet around each joint as shown. DO NOT
GLUE ENGINE HOOK TO ENGINE MOUNT TUBE
AND DO NOT RUN A FILLETS ON THE OUTER SIDE
OF THE REAR ENGINE RING.Let glue set (10-15
min) before moving on to next step.
WOOD
GLUE
Run glue fillets
along these joints
Don't run glue fillet
on outer joint
Don't glue Engine Hook
to tube
7
10. rReplace the Fin Braces and permanently glue
them to all Engine Mount Rings using CA.
Glue Fin Braces
in place
CA
GLUE
Permanently install
Fin Braces
11. rInstall all Support Braces and glue them
permanently into place using CA.
Glue Support
Braces in place
Install Support Braces
CA
GLUE
12. rApply a ring of Wood glue around the face of
the Rear Centering Ring as shown. Make sure the Rear
Centering Ring notch is aligned with the Engine Hook
and then slide it onto the front end of the Engine Mount
Tube. Push ring up the tube until it meets with the rear
Engine Mount Ring. Press ring firmly and let glue set (5-
10 min). DO NOT ACCIDENTALLY GLUE ENGINE
HOOK TO ANY SURROUNDING PARTS OF THE
REAR CENTERING RING. IT MUST FREELY MOVE
WITHIN NOTCH AND SLOT.
13. rApply a ring of Wood glue around the forward
end of the Engine Mount Tube as shown. The bead
should be roughly 1/8" from the tube end. Slip the
Forward Centering Ring onto the forward end of the tube
noting alignment of the Shock Cord attachment hole.
Ensure the ring is square and let dry (10-15 min). DO
NOT ACCIDENTALLY FILL SHOCK CORD
ATTACHMENT HOLE WITH GLUE.
Apply glue ring
around inner face
Align notch with
Engine Hook
Apply glue ring
around Engine Tube
Shock Cord
attachment hole
WOOD
GLUE
Engine Mount Tube
Forward
Centering
Ring
1
/"
8

14. rApply a bead of Wood glue as shown around
the Centering Rings and Engine Mount Tube to form a
fillet. AGAIN DO NOT ACCIDENTALLY GLUE ENGINE
HOOK OR FILL IN SHOCK CORD HOLE.
Apply glue bead as a fillet
around each joint
Don't glue Engine Hook
or Shock Cord hole
8
15. rWrap the Shock Cord around the Engine
Mount Tube and tie a double knot near the Shock Cord
hole in the Forward Centering Ring. Tighten knot and
apply a drop or two of CA glue onto the created knot.
Finally thread the Shock Cord through the hole in the
Forward Centering Ring and pull the remaining cord
through it.
16. rStuff the Shock Cord into the Engine Mount
Tube as shown in preparation for the next step. This
will keep the Shock Cord out of the way. Hint: Use
cotton balls to help keep Shock Cord in tube.
Stuff Shock Cord
into Tube
Tie
Knot
Apply
Glue
Wrap Shock
Cord around
tube
CA
GLUE
Thread Shock Cord
through Ring
17. rTest fit the Engine Mount Assembly into the
Lower Main Body Tube. Note how the Engine Mount
Primary Fin holes line up with the Lower Main Body
Tube Primary Fin holes and how the Engine Mount
Assembly is recessed about 1/8” of an inch into the
Main Body Tube. Apply Wood glue to a cotton swab
stick and create a bead of glue around inside of the
Lower Main Body Tube approximately 5 ½" from rear as
shown. Align the Lower Main Body Tube Primary Fin
holes with the holes in the Fin Braces on the Engine
Mount Assembly. Insert the Engine Mount Assembly
into the Lower Main Body Tube keeping the Primary Fin
holes aligned. MOVE QUICKLY TO NEXT STEP.
WOOD
GLUE
1/"
2
Approximately 5
Apply glue
to swab Align
Fin
Holes

9
18. rKeeping the Lower Main Body Tube vertical to
allow the glue bead to settle temporarily insert the
Primary Fins in place as shown. Adjust the Engine
Mount Assembly as needed to ensure the Primary Fins
fit and are square to the Lower Main Body Tube. Using
CA tack glue Engine Mount assemble into place around
Rear Centering Ring as shown. DO NOT GLUE
PRIMARY FINS INTO PLACE! Carefully remove the
Primary Fins and place the Lower Main Tube Assembly
upright on a flat surface and let the glue on the Forward
Centering Ring applied in step #16 dry throughly (15-
20min).
Align and square
Primary Fins
Engine
Hook
Tack glue
Engine Mount
in place
Temporarily install
Primary Fins
CA
GLUE
19. rPlace the Lower Main Body Tube Assembly
upside down (Rear End up) on the Lower Main Body
Tube. Run a fillet of Wood glue around the Rear
Centering Ring and the Lower Main Body Tube
interface. Again let the glue dry throughly (10-15
minutes) before going to the next step.
Congratulations on a job well done!
Stand up
on end
Apply glue fillet around
Rear Centering Ring
WOOD
GLUE
Let glue
dry
Upper & Lower Main Body Tube
Assemblies (75-90 mins)
1. rOptionally if you choose this is a good time to fill
the spirals of the Upper and Lower Main Body Tube
(illustration shows Lower Main Body Tube Assembly.
Use hobby putty (i.e., Elmer’s Carpenter’s Wood Filler)
to fill the spirals. You may need to thin down the hobby
putty to the consistency of peanut-butter for easy
application. Use a popsicle stick to apply putty to the
spirals. Use a single edge razor blade to squeegee off
excess and let dry thoroughly. Sand spirals smooth with
320 grit sandpaper. Apply additional coats and sand
smooth as necessary.
Hobby
Putty
Apply Hobby Putty
to spirals
Squeegee off excess
Sand smooth
2. rFind the paper Upper Main Body Tube Fin
Template on the back page of the manual. Hint:
Optionally make a copy of the page to preserve the
manual. Follow the instructions to cut the Fin Template
out and assemble it around the Upper Main Body Tube.
Mark the Upper Main Body Tube Secondary Fin
locations as noted on the template with a pencil. These
marks will be used to draw alignment lines for the
Secondary Fins. Mark
Upper Main Body Tube
Secondary Fin line locations

10
4. rNow take the Lower Main Body Tube assembly
and using the edge of a desk or door jam create a
single Secondary Fin Alignment Mark by aligning a
Primary Fin hole to the edge of the desk as shown.
5. rCreate Secondary Fin Alignment Lines on the
Upper Main Body Tube by aligning each mark created in
step #2 to the desk edge and drawing a light pencil line
up the tube approximately 3 inches. Repeat the
process to create the other Secondary Fin Alignment
Lines. Extend one of the lines down the length of the
tube to the rear edge. This line will be used to align the
Upper and Lower Main Body Tubes.
3. rUsing a pencil create the Forward Upper Tube
C-Ring marks on the Upper Main Body Tube through
the slot in the Fin Template as illustrated. Slide the Fin
Template off the Upper Main Body Tube revealing the
three line marks and the Forward Upper Tube C-Ring
marks.
6. rLocate the Upper Tube C-Rings and slide two of
them unto the Upper Main Body Tube. Slide the
forward ring down to the mark created in Step #3. The
rear ring should be flush with rear of the tube. Keeping
rings square to the tube glue rings in place with CA. Let
the glue dry thoroughly. Using Wood Glue apply fillets
around the tube only the inside joints as shown.
7. rUsing a cotton glue stick and Wood Glue apply
two rings of glue around inside surface of the Lower
Main Body Tube assembly at the C-Ring locations as
illustrated. Ensure the Lower Main Body Tube
assembly Secondary Fin alignment mark and the
extended Upper Main Body Tube assembly Secondary
Fin alignment line are aligned. Push the Upper Main
Body Tube assembly into the Lower Main Body Tube
assembly until forward C-Ring is flush with forward edge
of Lower Main Body Tube assembly. Keep alignment
marks aligned and ensure the Upper and Lower tubes
stay parallel lengthwise to each other.
Desk Top
Edge
Create a single
Secondary Fin Alignment Mark
Align fin hole
to desk edge
WOOD
GLUE
Apply glue to inside
tube C-Ring locations
Align marks
Keep marks aligned
and forward C-Ring flush
Push tube
in place
Glue rings in place
Add glue fillets
to inside joints only
Slide Upper Tube C-Rings
unto Upper Tube
Slide forward ring to mark
CA
GLUE
Mark Forward Upper Tube
C-Ring location
Desk Top
Edge
Create Secondary Fin
alignment lines
Align Secondary Fin
alignment mark

11
9. rUSE THE CORRECT GLUE TYPE AT EACH
STEP, FAILURE TO DO SO MAY CAUSE SHRINKAGE
ISSUES. Locate the Transition Cone Wrap and the
Transition Cone Tab. Apply a film of White glue to the
top half of the tab as illustrated. Align the top half of the
tab to the wrap as shown and press into place. Make
sure the tab is centered side-to-side to ensure equal
gaps between the tab and the wrap as shown. LET
THE GLUE DRY THROUGHLY. Hint: This a good step
to do as a parallel step.
Word to the Wise: Constructing the Transition Cone
requires patience and time. Don’t attempt construction
on a bad day, for example coming home from a
miserable day at the office only to find the dog got into
the garbage. Take your time and let glue dry throughly.
Oh yeah and pet the dog.
WHITE
GLUE
Find and test fit
Tail Cone Wrap
and Tail Cone Tab
Apply film of
White glue to tab’s top half
Align tab to wrap
and press into place
WOOD
GLUE
Apply a film of wood glue on C-Ring face
Slide ring down tube and press in place
Align ring glue
face first to tube
Tab
Gaps
8. rLocate the third Upper Tube C-Ring and apply a
film of Wood Glue to its face. Flip the C-Ring so the
glue side is facing forward towards Lower Main Body
Tube assembly and slide it down the Upper Main Body
tube. Press the C-Ring firmly against the Forward
Upper Tube C-Ring and let the glue dry. This ring will
provide a gluing edge to the Upper Main Body
Transition Cone.
10. rStart forming the Transition Cone assembly by
pulling it sharply across a table edge to stretch and pre-
curl the wrap. Use a plastic pipe or similar item
approximately 3/4 - 1“ in diameter to help form the
Transition Cone Wrap assembly. TAKE YOUR TIME
AND DON’T CREASE THE CONE. Be extra patient in
forming the assembly around the tab area. Check the
form of the assembly and ensure the seam will lay as
flat as possible.
Construction Hint: Use two paper clips to hold the
assembly in its final shape and let the assembly sit for
several hours. Go see a movie.
11. rApply a film of White glue to the other half of
Transition Cone Tab as illustrated. Align edges of the
Transition Cone Wrap to form a perfect seam. Hold
assembly in place with paper clips or tape until glue is
throughly dry. Apply a film of glue on the back of the tab
from inside the cone covering the tab to wrap joints and
again let the glue dry throughly.
Align wrap edges
and hold in place
WHITE
GLUE
Use a dowel to
form wrap assembly
Check the form
of the wrap assembly
“Patience is a virtue“
Draw across table edge

12. rTest fit the Transition Cone by sliding it down
the Upper Main Body Tube. Check the fit around the C-
Ring and the tube. Using a pencil mark the rear location
of the Transition Cone on the tube. Remove the cone
and apply a bead of glue around the body tube, just
forward of the mark location, and the C-Ring edge.
Slide the Transition Cone back down the tube and into
place. Wipe off any excess glue. Let the assembly dry
thoroughly.
Construction Hint: This is good time to finish the
seams on the Transition Cone. Apply appropriate
amount of Hobby Putty and sand smooth. Repeat
application of putty and sanding until desired result is
reached.
13. rTest fit the Fin Bulk Heads and FFD Antennas
to their associated Secondary or Primary fin. NOTE
THE BULKHEADS AND ANTENNAS ARE DIFFERENT
WIDTH. The bulkheads are wider then the antennas.
The bulkheads are centered width wise with the fin root
edges. They should protrude equally on either side of
the associated fins. The antennas are smaller then the
fin thickness. Like the bulkheads they should be
centered so there is an equal gap on either side of the
fin faces. Optionally these gaps can be filled with hobby
putty. Apply a thin film of CA to the center of a Fin
Bulkhead or Antenna as shown. Quickly align to
appropriate fin and press in place. After the glue sets
apply a thin CA bead to fin and bulkhead or retro rocket
joint. DON’T OVER GLUE!
Mark rear location of cone
Test fit the cone by sliding it into place
Slide cone into place
Steps
WOOD
GLUE
Apply rear and forward
glue beads
14. rWe highly recommend sanding and sealing
the Fin assemblies balsa wood surfaces now by
purchasing Sanding Sealer from your local Hobby store.
Apply sealer to Primary Fin and Secondary Fin
assemblies, balsa surfaces with a brush accept on the
root edge and Primary Fin tab surfaces as noted (See
illustration). Hint: cover root and tab surfaces with
masking tap to protect them. This is very important
since these areas are the gluing surfaces. Let sealer
dry throughly. Lightly sand sealed surfaces with 220 grit
sandpaper. Use a sanding block on flat surfaces when
possible. Apply additional coats as needed to obtain
desired finish. AGAIN DO NOT SEAL THE NOTED
AREAS DURING APPLICATION OF THE SEALER!
WARNING - ONLY USE AND APPLY SANDING
SEALER IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA AND
NEVER NEXT TO OPEN FLAMES!!!
NOTE - PERFORMING THIS STEP IS NOT PART OF
THE SECTION CONSTRUCTION TIME ESTIMATE!
Sanding
Sealer
DO NOT SEAL
ROOT EDGES AND TAB AREAS
Align to fin Press in place
Apply beads
Slide antennae
into place
Apply glue
CA
GLUE
CA
GLUE
Apply Sealer
12

13
16. rTest fit the Secondary Fin assemblies in place
by locating the alignment lines on the Upper Main Body
Tube. The Secondary Fins assemblies start flush
forward of the Transition Cone. Note keep them on the
same side of the alignment line as the Primary Fins.
Apply a bead of CA glue to the root edge of a
Secondary Fin and the face Fin Bulkhead as shown.
Ensure Secondary Fin assembly is aligned to alignment
line and the associated Primary Fin and then press
Secondary Fin assembly in place. Hold Secondary Fin
assembly square until glue dries (20-25 seconds).
Repeat process for remaining two Secondary Fin
assemblies.
15. rTake a Primary Fin assembly and apply CA as
shown to all surfaces that will contact the Engine Mount
Assembly and Main Body Tube. Keeping the Primary
Fin assembly square, insert the fin into one of the Main
Body Tube Primary Fin holes and press firmly in place.
Hold the fin square until glue dries (20-25 seconds).
Repeat the process for the other two Primary Fins
assemblies. Optionally use thicker CA glue if more
assembly time is needed since thicker CA dries slower.
Secondary Fins are flush
forward of Transition Cone
Apply glue
to root edge
Alignment
lines
CA
GLUE
Apply on
fin edges
Apply on side tab
face and notch edges
Keep fins
square
CA
GLUE
17. rUsing Wood glue apply glue fillets to one set
of Primary Fins and Secondary Fins to Main Body Tube
joints. Once the glue has set (10-15 minutes) rotate the
#
rocket assembly 120 and apply the next set of fillets.
MAKE SURE FILLETS DO NOT RUN ONTO THE
MAIN BODY TUBE, FIN FACES OR BULKHEADS.
DON'T RUSH!
WOOD
GLUE
Apply glue fillets

14
18. rLocate the supplied Launch Lug tubing and
using a hobby knife cut the tubing in half. Determine
the Primary Fin Launch Lug location by noting
relationship to the Engine Hook. The lug should be
aligned on the same side as the Engine Hook. Apply a
light film of CA glue on one side of lug as shown. Align
lug to the lead edge of the Primary Fin and against the
Fin Bulkhead as shown in the cameo and press in place
until glue sets. Ensure lug remains parallel with the
Lower Main Body Tube.
19. rDetermine the Secondary Fin Launch Lug
location by noting how it is NOT AGAINST the Fin
Bulkhead but rather a distance away from it to remain
parallel with the Primary Fin Launch Lug. This is
required due to the difference in diameters between the
Lower and Upper Main Body Tubes. Use a proper
length straight edge (ruler) to maintain the parallel
relationship. Apply a light film of CA glue on one side as
in step #18. Align lug to the trailing edge of the
Secondary Fin as shown in the cameo and press in
place until glue sets. Ensure lug remains parallel with
the Primary Fin Launch Lug.
Note Engine Hook location
Note lug is
against bulkhead
Apply glue
Launch
Lug
CA
GLUE
Note lug is
not against bulkhead
Launch
Lug
Straight
Edge
20. rTo create a parachute compartment first push
the Shock Cord forward out of the Engine Mount Tube
and through the Main Body Tube. Cut a Shock Cord V-
Notch into the outside edge of the supplied C-Ring
using a Hobby knife as shown below. Apply a bead of
Wood glue carefully to the inside wall of the Upper Main
Body Tube about 8 inches down tube as shown using a
cotton swap stick attached to a longer stick (i.e., a
dowel). KEEP THE GLUE AWAY FROM THE SHOCK
CORD AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE.
Shock Cord
V-Notch
Use Hobby Knife
to cut notch
Align C-Ring
to Main Body tube
and Shock Cord
Push down tube
and into glue bead
Apply glue bead
inside tube
Forward end
Apply Wood glue
to cotton swap
WOOD
GLUE
21. rAlign the C-Ring to the Upper Main Body Tube
and the C-Ring V-Notch to the Shock Cord. Slide the C-
Ring into the tube and push it down the Upper Main
Body Tube until contacts with the glue bead. Apply
additional glue as needed. Set the rocket right side up
(on fins) and let glue dry throughly.

CA
GLUE
1”
Apply CA and smear to
coat inside of tube
22. rSoak approximately 1“ of the inside surface of
the forward end of the Upper Main Body Tube with CA.
Use a finger wrapped in a plastic bag to smear CA
evenly. Let dry and repeat process. After the CA has
dried, sand the inner surface smooth with sandpaper
220 grit or finer.
CAUTION: USE ADEQUATE VENTILATION FOR
THIS STEP, SINCE THE CA GIVES OFF FUMES
WHICH IRRITATE EYES AND LUNGS.
23. rTest fit the Nose Cone into the top of the
Upper Main Body Tube. Lightly sand as needed with
220 grit sandpaper to ensure a slip fit. A good test
DO NOT OVER SAND OR SAND SHOULDER
LIP !!!
is to
hold the rocket nose-down. The Nose Cone should
remain in place, but should come loose with a solid
shake.
26. rThe XP-RAPTOR has been designed to
produce a Center of Gravity (CG) 6.75 to 7.75 inches
from the Primary Fins as illustrated. Test the CG by
temporarily placing the parachute, heat shield, and snap
swivel into the parachute compartment. Temporarily
install a E9-6 engine and attached the Nose Cone. F
.
ind
the point where the rocket balances If the CG is too far
back (tail-heavy), add weight to the nose using molding
clay or epoxy. If the CG is too far forward (nose-
heavy), reduce the weight of the Nose Cone by sanding
it or adding weight to the tail (engine tube recess area).
Add or reduce nose
or tail weight as needed
6.75 - 7.75“
Center Gravity
Place parachute, heat shield
and, snap-swivel in parachute
compartment.
15
Making a D-Engine Spacer
1. rTake both a spent D-Engine and E-Engine and
set them side-by-side ejection charge end up. Using a
pencil mark the height of the D-Engine onto the E-
Engine as shown.
2. rUsing a razor saw cut the E-Engine at the mark
to produce the spacer.
3. rSand edges and body of the spacer. Test fit into
Engine Mount Tube. Spacer should be loose for easy
insertion and retraction.
Mark Spacer
on E-Engine Sand edges
and body
Cut off Spacer
using razor saw
D-Engine
E-Engine
E-Engine
Test fit Nose Cone
into Main Body Tube
Sand lightly
as needed

Now that your XP-RAPTOR is assembled it is time to
add the finishing touches. Some modelers view model
finishing - sanding, painting, and decaling as torture.
Finishing enables you to bring out your personal
signature or expression. There are many different
finishing techniques that can be researched and
implemented. The internet is full of web sites containing
model finishing techniques and we encourage you to
explore.
How your XP-RAPTOR is actually finished is entirely up
to you. Some rocket enthusiasts may finish their XP-
RAPTOR using our original color scheme, while others
may add their own flare (no pun intended) by using a
rainbow of colors. However you decide to finish your
XP-RAPTOR the point is to finish it!
The following steps will illustrate how to finish your XP-
RAPTOR using our original paint and decal scheme.
Finishing
1. rTo finish your Raptor start by ensuring all glue
fillets are in place, all plastic flash or mold bumps are
removed from the plastic nose cone, any rough balsa
edges are removed, and any nicks are repaired.
Review the instructions and recheck all glue fillets, fix
any problems. Using 220 grit sandpaper lightly sand off
any remaining plastic flash or bumps on the nose cone.
Use a sanding block and 220 grit sandpaper lightly sand
balsa areas and remove any rough spots. Seal balsa
areas as necessary. Check the Transition Cone seams
and Fin Bulkheads and Retro Rocket joints. Repair any
nicks using hobby putty and then sand smooth. Be
careful not to over sand any area. Take your time. The
time you spend on this step will be the greatest
contributor to your final finish. BE DILIGENT AND
THOROUGH!!!
16
Lightly sand off any
plastic flash or bumps
Lightly sand Primary Fins
to remove any rough edges
Lightly sand Secondary Fins
to remove any rough edges
Ensure glue fillets
are applied to
Launch Lug Assembly
Ensure glue fillets are
applied to Primary Fins
Ensure glue fillets are
applied to Secondary Fins
Check slip fit of
Main Nose Cone
sand if necessary
Ensure Launch
Lug is open
Protective
Plastic Sheet
Move Spray Can
quickly to avoid
paint runs
Lite
Gray
Primer
WARNING - ONLY USE AND APPLY SPRAY PAINT IN
A WELL VENTILATED AREA AND NEVER NEXT TO
OPEN FLAMES!!!
3. rPurchase White or Lite Gray Primer from a local
Hardware or Hobby store. Set the rocket over a sheet
of plastic to protect your work surface and make sure
surrounding work area won't be affected. Apply an even
coat of primer to the entire rocket. Keep the spray
moving to avoid runs. Let primer dry throughly and then
apply a second light coat. Again let primer dry and then
lightly sand using 300-400 grit sandpaper. Repeat
coats of primer and light sanding until you are satisfied
with the coverage and overall finish.
2. rStudy the illustrations on page #2 to understand
the paint scheme of the Raptor before moving forward.
Note you will be painting the Transition Cone using
traditional masking and painting techniques.
It is important to allow paint to dry properly between
coats. Improper drying time can cause previous paint
layers to crinkle and/or peel. Follow the directions on
the spray can regarding drying times.

4. rUsing hobby masking materials (i.e., Sheet
stock and Tape) mask off the Lower Main Body Tube
assembly roughly mid way down the Transition Cone.
Purchase White Enamel Spray Paint from a local
Hardware or Hobby store. Again set the rocket over a
sheet of plastic to protect your work surface and to
make sure surrounding work area won't be affected.
Lightly apply an even coat of White Enamel Paint to the
Upper Main Body Tube assembly. Keep the spray
moving to avoid runs. Use a series of light coats to
build up your desired finish instead of one heavy coat.
Let paint dry throughly between coats.
6. rUsing hobby masking materials (i.e., Sheet
stock and Tape) mask off the Upper Main Body Tube
assembly just above the rear of the Transition Cone as
shown. Purchase Gray Enamel Spray Paint from a
local Hardware or Hobby store. Again set the rocket
over a sheet of plastic to protect your work surface and
to make sure surrounding work area won't be affected.
Lightly apply an even coat of Gray Enamel Paint to the
Lower Main Body Tube assembly. Keep the spray
moving to avoid runs. Use a series of light coats to
build up your desired finish instead of one heavy coat.
Let paint dry throughly between coats.
5. rHold the Main Nose Cone over a sheet of
plastic to protect your work surface and to make sure
surrounding work area won't be affected. Lightly apply
an even coat of White Enamel Paint to the entire Nose
Cone. Keep the spray moving to avoid runs. Use a
series of light coats to build up your desired finish
instead of one heavy coat. Let paint dry throughly
between coats.
17
Gray
Enamel
Mask off rocket assembly as shown
Mask off rocket assembly as shown
Mask off rocket assembly as shown
Carefully mask off cone via tape
7. rCarefully apply a ring of masking tape
completely around the forward and rear edges of the
Transition Cone as shown to mask it off. Using hobby
masking materials (i.e., Sheet stock and Tape) mask off
the Lower and Upper Main Body Tube assemblies.
Purchase Black Enamel Spray Paint from a local
Hardware or Hobby store. Again set the rocket over a
sheet of plastic to protect your work surface and to
make sure surrounding work area won't be affected.
Lightly apply an even coat of Black Enamel Paint to the
Transition Cone. Keep the spray moving to avoid runs.
Use a series of light coats to build up your desired finish
instead of one heavy coat. Let paint dry throughly
between coats.
Protective
Plastic Sheet
Protective
Plastic Sheet
Move Spray Can
quickly to avoid
paint runs
Move Spray Can
quickly to avoid
paint runs
White
Enamel
White
Enamel
Black
Enamel

18
8. rRemove the sheeting protecting the rocket
assembly and carefully remove the masking tape to
reveal the finished painted rocket assembly.
10. rCarefully cut out each decal using a hobby
knife and/or a pair of scissors. Place the decal in a dish
of warm water to remove the backing. Damp the
surface were the decal will be applied with water
thoroughly. Orient the decal to the model and slide it off
the backing and onto the model. Pat and rub the decal
down and use a soft cloth to remove any excess water.
11. rCheck all decals to ensure proper placement
and that all edges and surfaces of the decals are flat.
Let decals dry thoroughly. Optionally apply an
appropriate non-destructive clear coat to the entire
rocket to protect decals and paint scheme.
Congratulations - on completing your QModeling XP Model RAPTOR!!!
Finished painted XP-RAPTOR
9. rStudy the renders on page #2 to understand the
placement of decals. The renders represent a
#
complete 360 view of the Raptor. Use these different
views to determine the exact location of each decal.
Find each decal on the supplied decal sheets and
understand its orientation. It is important to have a plan
of attack. We recommend starting from the bottom and
working towards the top. Whatever attack plan you use,
take your time, and check the renders often to ensure
proper placement.
Cut decal out of
supplied decal sheets
Place decal in a warm
dish of water
Dampen surface
first with water
Place decal on model
and dry off excess water

4. rThread the Shock Cord through the Main Nose
Cone Molded Hook and tie a knot around the Molded
Hook. Place a drop or two of CA on knot to secure the
Shock Cord to the Molded Hook.
19
5. rGroup the Parachute Shroud Lines together
forming a set of loops at one end. Ensure the Shroud
Lines are not tangled. Unclasp the Snap Swivel and
attach the Parachute loops to the Snap Swivel. Re-
clasp the Snap Swivel to secure the Parachute.
6. rFinish final assembly by lightly wrapping the
Shroud Lines around the Parachute. Pack the
Parachute, Heat Shield, and Shock Cord into parachute
compartment of the Main Body Tube. Push the Main
Nose Cone onto the Main Body Tube. Place completed
XP-RAPTOR on flat surface and step back.
TAKE A BOW OR TWO FOR SUCCESSFULLY COMPLETING ALL THE STEPS !
1. rLocate the Shock Cord Bumper and drill a
Shock Cord hole through the center. Pull the Shock
Cord tautly out of the Main Body tube and thread it
through the created hole of the bumper. Push the
bumper down the Shock Cord until it is located
approximately 1/4” from the forward end of the Upper
Main Body Tube when the cord is taught. Use CA to
glue the bumper permanently to the Shock Cord.
3. rThread the Shock Cord through the Snap
Swivel as shown and secure it with a knot past the Heat
Shield two-thirds of the way up the Shock Cord from the
Main Body tube. Apply a drop or two of CA on the knot
after pulling it tight.
Final Assembly (10-15 mins)
Unclasp
Clasp
CA
GLUE
Thread cord
and form a knot
Pull knot
tight apply CA
Thread Shock Cord
through Bumper
Glue in place
Drill Shock
Cord hole
CA
GLUE
Attach Parachute onto
Snap Swivel
2. rPull the Shock Cord tautly out of the Main Body
tube and thread it through the corner attachment hole
located on the Heat Shield. Thread Shock Cord
through Heat Shield
Tie Shock Cord
onto Eye Hook
Apply CA to
secure knot
CA
GLUE
Attach Snap Swivel beyond Heat Shield
and 2/3 up Shock Cord
2/31/3

National Association of Rocketry
Model Rocket Safety Code
1. Materials: I will use only lightweight, non-metal parts for
the nose, body, and fins of my rocket.
2. Motors: I will use only certified, commercially-made
model rocket motors, and will not tamper with these motors
or use them for any purposes except those recommended
by the manufacturer.
3. Ignition System: I will launch my rockets with an
electrical launch system and electrical motor igniters. My
launch system will have a safety interlock in series with the
launch switch, and will use a launch switch that returns to
the "off" position when released.
4. Misfires: If my rocket does not launch when I press the
button of my electrical launch system, I will remove the
launcher's safety interlock or disconnect its battery, and will
wait 60 seconds after the last launch attempt before
allowing anyone to approach the rocket.
5. Launch Safety: I will use a countdown before launch,
and will ensure that everyone is paying attention and is a
safe distance of at least 15 feet away when I launch
rockets with D motors or smaller, and 30 feet when I launch
larger rockets. If I am uncertain about the safety or stability
of an untested rocket, I will check the stability before flight
and will fly it only after warning spectators and clearing
them away to a safe distance.
6. Launcher: I will launch my rocket from a launch rod,
tower, or rail that is pointed to within 30 degrees of the
vertical to ensure that the rocket flies nearly straight up,
and I will use a blast deflector to prevent the motor's
exhaust from hitting the ground. To prevent accidental eye
injury, I will place launchers so that the end of the launch
rod is above eye level or will cap the end of the rod when it
is not in use.
7. Size: My model rocket will not weigh more than 1,500
grams (53 ounces) at liftoff and will not contain more than
125 grams (4.4 ounces) of propellant or 320 N-sec (71.9
pound-seconds) of total impulse. If my model rocket weighs
more than one pound (453 grams) at liftoff or has more
than four ounces (113 grams) of propellant, I will check and
comply with Federal Aviation Administration regulations
before flying.
8. Flight Safety: I will not launch my rocket at targets, into
clouds, or near airplanes, and will not put any flammable or
explosive payload in my rocket.
9. Launch Site: II will launch my rocket outdoors, in an
open area at least as large as shown in the accompanying
table, and in safe weather conditions with wind speeds no
greater than 20 miles per hour. I will ensure that there is no
dry grass close to the launch pad, and that the launch site
does not present risk of grass fires.
10. Recovery System: I will use a recovery system such
as a streamer or parachute in my rocket so that it returns
safely and undamaged and can be flown again, and I will
use only flame-resistant or fireproof recovery system
wadding in my rocket.
11. Recovery Safety: I will not attempt to recover my
rocket from power lines, tall trees, or other dangerous
places
Installed Total
Impulse (N-sec)
Equivalent Motor
Type
Minimum Site
Dimensions (ft.)
0.00--1.25 1/4A, 1/2A 50
1.26--2.50 A 100
2.51--5.00 B 200
5.01--10.00 C 400
10.01--20.00 D 500
20.01--40.00 E 1000
40.01--80.00 F 1000
80.01--160.00 G 1000
160.01--320.00 Two Gs 1500
National Association of Rocketry
Launch Site Dimensions
Remember
only you
can prevent
Safety
Hazards!
20