Quantum Sails Snipe Quick start guide

SNIPE
TUNING
GUIDE

The exhilarating feeling of going fast in a pristine boat
that’s easy to control is every sailor’s dream. Quantum
strives to bring you the best experience when it comes
to sailing your Snipe by helping you achieve your ideal
performance. Our experts put this guide together to
provide you with information that will make your Snipe
easy to sail and tune while maintaining incredible
speed.
Thank you for choosing Quantum, and we hope to see
you out enjoying the sport.
SNIPE

QUICK SETUP GUIDE
*The jib halyard measurement here is for McLaughlin, Persson, Eclipse or Jibe Tec boats. If you have a Phoenix, Lillia, or a Mueller boat, add 1” to the given measurements. For a Skipper Snipe,
subtract ¾” (2cm). 1 inch = 2.54cm, 1 foot = 30.48cm
COMPONENT SETTING
Spreader length 16 1/2”-16 ⁄” (42cm-43cm)
Spreader angle 29”-30 ⁄” (73.5cm-77.3cm)
Jib halyard (final rake) 21’ 5”-21’ 7” (652cm-658 cm) *
Pre-bend/rig tension 1 ⁄ -2 ⁄” (38mm-63mm) pre-bend, 21 units on the PT-1 Loos gauge
Deck attachment
location for shroud From forestay/jibstay pin to shroud pin: 5’ 5 ⁄”-5’ 6 ⁄”
Mast butt Persson center of transom to pin measurement: 10’ 8 ⁄” (327.4cm)
Jibetech center of indent to pin: 10’ 8 ⁄” (325.5 cm)
Jib tack 11” (27. cm) aft of stem
Whisker pole Maximum class rule length: 104” (264.1cm)
Proctor mast
Rake: 21’ 6” (655cm)
Spreaders length: 16 ⁄”
Tip to tip: 29 ⁄”
Tension: 21”-22”
Sidewinder & Cobra II
Rake: 21’ 6” (655cm)
Spreader length: 16 ⁄” -16.5”
Tip to Tip: 29.5”
Tension: 21”-22”

BOAT PREPARATION
SNIPE / TUNING GUIDE
Here are some links to information that will help you set up your Snipe from a Snipe Class standpoint. At Quantum, we want
to focus on the relationship between the standing rigging and the sails. When setting up your boat for the first time, be sure to
spend some time reading these articles.
This covers the basics on how to set the boat up from day one.
This is a more technical guide to help you go faster around the course.
SNIPE RIGGING 101
PREPARING & SAILING A SNIPE

SNIPE / TUNING GUIDE
It is important to get the basic measurement of the rig
correct so that you only have to make minor adjustments on
the water. To begin, first identify your mast type.
MAST TYPES
The masts that work best are the so-called “bendy masts.” The most
popular are the Proctor Miracle and the Sidewinder Gold. The bendy
masts are easy to tune and use throughout the wind range, though
they are a little tricky in heavy air. When tuning your rig, it is important
to understand that each mast is a little different, even those from the
same company. The measurements listed in this guide should be used
as starting guidelines; it is up to you to find what works best for your
particular setup.
RIG SETUP

SNIPE / TUNING GUIDE
PREPARATION FOR RIG TUNING
SPREADER CHOICE
Spreader length and angle are the two areas where you can tune your
mast for crew weight and mast stiffness. Before stepping the mast,
these two items should be set up within the prescribed range. We
encourage the use of adjustable spreaders, as they make things easier.
SPREADER LENGTH
The length of the spreader controls the sideways bend of the mast.
Spreaders that are too long will push the middle of the mast to leeward,
which in turn clogs the jib slot and hurts pointing. Spreaders that are
too short allow the middle of the mast to pop to windward, robbing the
main of critical power. Because you want to hold onto as much sail power
as possible, try to keep the spreader length and angle at their largest
dimension.
These are recommended settings for a quick setup:
Because the Sidewinder Junior Mast is so flexible, we recommend using
15 7/8” x 30 1/2” with 1” of pre-bend. If the jib hits the spreader when
sailing upwind, pull the aft puller as much as a ½” behind neutral to keep
the jib just off the spreader.
With the spreaders in the mast and pulled aft to the stops, the length is
measured from the side of the mast to the shroud/spreader intersection.
We recommend measuring on the top of the spreader and looking for the
shortest distance from the mast to the shroud. The prescribed length
between the spreaders is 15 7/8”-16 3/4’’ (40cm-42.5cm).
If you are setting your spreaders for the first time, check the distance
between the shrouds at deck level. The standard length between the
shrouds is 4’ 7 1/2’’. If the length between your shrouds is different than
this, lengthen your spreaders 1/8” (3.1mm) for every 3/4’’ (1.9cm) farther
apart your shrouds are. If your shrouds are closer together, shorten the
spreader length by ⅛’’ (3.1mm).
SPREADER ANGLE
The angle of the spreader affects how much the mast will bend in
moderate-to-heavy air. A large angle will stiffen the mast, which is good
for a heavy crew or a soft mast. A smaller number will allow the mast to
bend more, which is good for a light crew or stiff mast.
The prescribed angle range is 29”-30 1/2” (73.6cm-77.5cm), measured at
the spreader tips from one shroud to the other with the spreaders locked
aft. If your spreaders need to be longer or shorter than standard, set
your tip-to-tip measurement when your spreaders are at the standard
length and then change the length of your spreaders evenly. The angle is
typically more important than the length between them.
It is imperative that the spreader angle be symmetrical to the centerline
of the boat. With the mast up, unhook the mast puller and pull on the
jib halyard hard so the spreaders swing back to their locked position
(check by lightly pulling the shroud aft), stand about 20’ to the side of the
boat, and line up the base of the two shrouds with your eye. Follow the
shrouds up to the spreader. If the shrouds are parallel and appear as one
shroud, your spreaders are set correctly. If you see one shroud going
forward and one aft, then adjust the screws until the shrouds look even
when viewed from the side of the boat.
PROCTOR MAST SIDEWINDER
Mast length: 21’ 6” Mast length: 21’ 6”
Spreaders: 16 ⁄” x 29 ⁄” Spreaders: 16 ⁄” x 29 ⁄”

SNIPE / TUNING GUIDE
FORESTAY
The Snipe Class rules state that “the forestay must be all wire (no
smaller than 3/32”/2.4 mm) and shall be of such length as to prevent the
mast from touching the back of the mast partners.” When the forestay is
cut at the maximum allowable length, it is too slack. The forestay length
should be such that it barely allows you to attach the shrouds when
rigging.
To help keep the forestay from fouling the pole while jibing, tie one end
of a short piece of shock cord 1’ (30cm) up the forestay with the other
end attached to the tack fitting or to the bow. The shock cord will pull the
forestay tight so it does not get in the way of the pole when jibing.
MAST BUTT LOCATION
The mast butt position has been debated throughout the history of the
Snipe Class, but here are our recommendations. They are the same as
the discontinued 60” rule.
A quick way to check your butt position is to look at the amount of space
between the mast and the front of the partner when the jib is up with the
halyard tensioned. This is typically 3/4”-1” of space in front of the mast.
Check your mast butt to see if it is cut off squarely and perpendicular to
the mast.
SHROUD ATTACHMENT LOCATION
If your shrouds are 4’ 7 1.2” (141cm) apart, the distance from your
shrouds to the forestay should be 5’ 5 3/4” (167cm), from the front hole
on a Persson hull. If your shrouds are farther apart , you will need to
move them farther aft to help limit headstay sag upwind. If they are 4’
9” (145cm) apart, they should be about 5’ 7” (170cm) aft. If your shrouds
are too far forward, you will get too much headstay sag as the breeze
increases. If they are too far aft, you will not get enough sag.
In moderate-to-heavy air (over 15-18 knots), moving the shroud position
back 1” to the second or third hole will tighten the rig to help depower
the sail plan. This aft placement also encourages lateral bend, which
helps depower the sail plan upwind while minimizing the possibility of
off-wind mast inversion.
JIB TACK
The jib tack must be fastened at the most forward position allowed by
the Class rules to reduce the main and jib slot overlap. This distance is
11” (27.9cm) aft of the stem. Attach the jib wire on the bow fitting to the
point closest to this measurement. Class rules do not allow the jib and
forestay to share the same pin. Run your forestay under/through the jib
shackle to the second pin aft on the bow fitting.
DECK MARKS
With the boat on the trailer, the rig tuned at your rake measurement (jib
up), and the mast floating freely in the partners, place one mark at the
side of the mast and one on the deck that lines up with the mast mark.
This is your pre-bend or neutral mark. Place a mark 3/4” (1.9cm) in
front of the pre-bend mark and a mark 1/2” (1.3cm) behind the pre-bend
mark. These three marks will aid you when using the puller both upwind
and downwind.
RIG SETUP
PREPARATION FOR RIG TUNING
PERSSON JIBETECH
Center of transom to mast butt
pin: 10’ 8 ⁄”
Center of transom indent to mast
butt pin: 10’ 8 ⁄”

SNIPE / TUNING GUIDE
The measurement ranges given here will allow you to tune to the
characteristics of your mast for crew weight and wind conditions.
Anytime you need power, the mast must be more upright and/or the
shrouds looser. When you need to depower, the mast must be farther
back and/or the shrouds tighter. Whether you’re sailing at a heavy or
light crew weight, we’ll define an average crew weight as 300 pounds.
Your rig tune will need both a light air set up and heavy air set up.
Experimentation is necessary to develop these rig tune steps through
the wind range. To begin, let’s set up your boat with a good light-to-
moderate wind tune.
Place the mast in the boat and attach the shrouds and mast ram.
Fasten a tape measure to the main halyard shackle, raise the
main halyard completely, and secure it in the halyard lock. All
measurements assume that your halyard is the correct length after it
has been locked, meaning that the top of your mainsail is even with the
bottom of the top band.
STEP 1:
SHROUDS
We encourage the use of STA Master shroud adjusters for accuracy,y
as they allow for very small increments of change. Make note of the
shroud size and wire design (3/32” or 1/8”, 1 x 19 wire, Dyform or Rod
rigging, etc.) on the mast. Stronger wire will require a looser shroud
tension setting to achieve the correct rig tension. If the rig has new
shrouds, be sure to check the shroud measurement after sailing a
couple of times. New shrouds will stretch, so be sure to bring them
back to your original setting.
TUNING THE RIG

SNIPE / TUNING GUIDE
If you get the pre-bend to the right measurement and the shrouds are
tight, then your mast may be too stiff. To remedy, set the mast within the
prescribed rake range but with less shroud tension; 19 units is perfect
for achieving sufficient pre-bend. This will make the mast straighter at
the dock. With less pre-bend, more mast fore puller must be used in the
light air range.
STEP 4:
WIND RANGE STEPS – U.S. TUNING
Follow these guidelines to make changing rig tune easy, so that your
boat can maintain speed and power through the range of conditions.
A single rig tune, though easy, will not suffice for all wind conditions.
Depending on your mast, you will find the need for two or three mast
tune steps to get from light to heavy air. After you have developed a
starting light/moderate air setting, you can develop your medium air
(15-18 knots) tuning by tightening your shrouds a half hole for Holt-Allen
adjusters or 1.5 turns on the STA Masters and keeping your jib halyard
at the same mark. Re-check Steps 2 and 3 to note the changes. This will
increase your shroud tension, pre-bend, and mast rake, all good things
to have when the wind increases. When the wind is over 15-18 knots, you
may want to move your shrouds aft one hole (.75” (2cm). Use the same
halyard mark for every rig setting.
A helpful rule to determine when to change your shroud tension is to
watch the angle of your leeward STA Masters and the sag between
the forestay and jib stay at the bottom jib telltale. If the STA Masters is
leaning over more than 20 degrees (the angle your middle and index
finger make when making the peace sign) or if you can fit more than
three finger widths between your jibstay and forestay at the bottom
telltale (forestay shock cord pulled to same pin as jibstay), you should
tighten your shrouds.
STEP 2:
MAST RAKE & DECK CROWN
The wire in the jib luff bears the entire mast load while sailing. By
adjusting the jib halyard with the pullers off, changes are made to the
mast rake, pre-bend, and rig tension. With the jib up, take the tape
measure to the stern and measure the rake. Adjust the jib halyard until
you are within a range of 21’6”-21’ 7” (653cm-658cm). This will be your
upwind halyard setting. Keep in mind that the farther forward you rake
your mast, the shorter your spreaders need to be.
Hold a straight edge from one transom corner to the other and mark this
line in the middle of the stern. From this line to the top of the deck, the
Persson measures 1.75” (4.5cm). If your boat measures less, you will
have to add the difference to your rake number. If it measures more, you
will have to subtract the difference to get your rake number.
STEP 3:
PRE-BEND/RIG TENSION
Assuming that your mast pullers are off, the jib luff wire should be
loading against the shrouds and the middle of the mast will bend
forward. This is called pre-bend. It is one of the most critical aspects of
boat performance. Check that the mast is floating freely in the partners
before moving on. After the mast rake is set and the mast is floating
and the jib wire is tensioned, hold the main halyard so it is just touching
the back side of the spreader bracket. If set correctly, the bottom of the
halyard at the top of the black band should be within 1/4” of the front of
the mast.
• If there is too much pre-bend (halyard is forward of mast), ease
the shrouds and re-measure the rake. It should be 21’6”-21’ 7”
(653cm-658cm).
• If there is too little pre-bend, tighten the shrouds and re-measure
the rake.
• Using a Loos Tension Gauge will allow you to check the pressure
on your shrouds and keep them even. The base shroud tension is
20-21 units on the PT-1 Loos gauge.

JIB HALYARD LENGTH
After setting the jib halyard at the correct rake measurement, check to see that you have
at least 10” of adjustment/ease. This amount is needed so that you will be able to square
your whisker pole aft and be fast on the run. If the rake measurement is too short, then
either replace the jib halyard or use a wire pennant to lengthen the jib halyard.
MAST PARTNER
The mast must be shimmed tight in the mast partners. With the boat on the trailer and the
rig loaded at its upwind pre-bend setting, remove the shims and measure the thickness
that is needed for both sides of the mast. Since the mast partner is rarely in the middle of
the boat, the shims will likely vary in thickness. It is critical that the mast be held in the
center of the boat, but not too tight to prevent the mast from bending.
When the jib is up and shims installed, pull the mast 1/2” (15mm) aft at the deck to make
the mast straight fore, aft, and sideways, and then sight up the backside of the mast to
make sure the shims are set right and the mast is straight side to side.
RIGGING

LAYOUT
Rigging layout must reflect the job responsibilities
of skipper and crew. Adjustment placement
must also reflect when adjustments are used.
The adjustments near the rail must be the ones
only used when hiking; too many will make quick
adjustments difficult and potentially confusing.
Cunningham and vang are good examples of
adjustments near the rail. Use a thin line with
a polypropylene cover to minimize friction and
weight when wet. Cutting lines to a minimal length
will reduce clutter and potential hazards.
DISPLACEMENT MODE
Harken Auto Ratchet blocks make minor but
critical adjustments possible and allow the pole
to go out faster when launched. Check to see
how close your leads are. Measure across the
boat from the bearing surface of one jib lead to
the other. The lead should fall within the range of
27”-32” (68.5cm-81.3cm). Tracks on newer boats
are closer together (2’ 5.5” (75 cm), which helps
pointing in marginal hiking conditions.
MAINSHEET
This system should have a Harken Auto Ratchet
behind the daggerboard and another auto ratchet
on the boom. Mainsheet load is greatly reduced
with both ratchet blocks turned on, which allows
the mainsheet to be hand-held to make quick
and critical mainsheet adjustments on even the
windiest of days.
HELPFUL TIPS
REFERENCE MARKS
To support our sail adjustment guidelines, all the adjustment lines
should have reference marks and number scales so that they can be
set consistently.
If you have any questions, please feel free to contact Quantum
representatives. For even more information, check our web pages here.
Good luck, and we’ll see you out there!
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